Hesse’s town of Großkrotzenburg has a history that’s intriguing, romantic, and sinister. Ha, didn’t see that last one coming, did ya?

What Großkrotzenburg also is, is fun. I like history as much as the next person, but I do like to let my hair down once in a while. ;-)

You might never have found yourself visiting Großkrotzenburg if you hadn’t been traveling on the German Limes Road or the Limes Cycle Trail yet. They’re one and the same German scenic routes, just the latter’s done by bicycle highlighting the very best of Roman history through a number of German states.

Whoa, Ho! That means Großkrotzenburg’s got itself some Roman ruins. I’ll be more specific, the ruins of a Roman Fort (known as Kastell Großkrotzenburg & was used as a prison for more than a century). Scattered over 2 hectares, you’ll see the fort, the Roman Bridge, and a museum detailing the life of the Romans in the area.

We didn’t get to the sinister part yet, BTW.

Which we’ll do now, since we’re talking about museums. Großkrotzenburg’s Local History Museum has an entire exhibit on the Hexenverfolgung (Witch Hunt) that took place here in 1628 under the orders of the Mainz’s Archbishop.

Sixty-four years before America’s Salem Witch Trials, they were going on right here in Germany. The tree (known as the Hexeneiche) planted in honor of the 90 people killed by the Archbishop was hit by lightning in the early 1970’s. A new one, as well as a memorial plaque, was planted and erected in their honor.

Another museum is the former Synagogue (there’s an old Jewish cemetery too). Großkrotzenburg had a Jewish community for at least a century before its house of worship was destroyed on Kristallnacht in November 1938. The old building was then converted to a church until the 1970’s, when it was then turned into a museum on Jewish life and a community center.

If you’re not knocked out from all the museum visits, walking, and general sightseeing — you might want to see the Spessart countryside where Großkrotzenburg has three swimming islands.

Say what you will, but this is the perfect place to sit discussing Großkrotzenburg’s sinister (and remarkably long) history. Or, at least I think so.

I don’t really care what the “official” document says, Langweid am Lech isn’t a medieval town. It’s a Roman one.

Don’t get me wrong, I love towns from the Middle Ages as much as anyone else, but archaeological finds show that the Romans were here long before Lords and Ladies of the Manor and peasants were.

Otherwise, Landweid wouldn’t be on the Via Claudia Augusta scenic route, would it? No, I didn’t believe so either.

In all fairness to our medieval friends, Langweid’s Eggelhof (with chapel) sits on Carolingian foundations. In case you didn’t know, the Carolingians were around from the 7th to 9th/10th centuries.

Whether the Middle Ages or the Romans peak your interest, you’re able to learn quite a bit more at the Lech Museum. It’s housed at the still working hydro-electric plant that was built in 1907. One caveat, it’s only open on the first Sunday of the month, but you got all day to see it as it’s open from 10am – 6pm.

As if the hydro-electric plant isn’t enough of a 20th century contribution to Langweid, you gotta see the Gersthofen-Gablingen Airfield that was used as a school to teach pilots of the Royal Bavarian Flying Corp from 1904 to 1918. During World War II the airfield was so well camouflaged (it was made to look like a lake), and was used as a subcamp of the Dachau Concentration Camp — housing 1000 prisoners.

After the war ended the United States used the airstrip, and it’s now where you’ll find the Wullenwever Antenna — some sort of triangulation antenna that was used as a listening device for espionage.

FYI, if there’s an engineer out there who can explain this to me, I would be forever grateful. ;-)

In the mean time, I will just enjoy the Swabian countryside (there are some 260km of hiking trails) and the nearby Nature Park Augsburg (the city of Augsburg is about 15km away) confident in my thought that Langweid am Lech is a true Roman town.

It would be silly to think that one place, one destination, one town could have everything (and anything) that a visitor could ask for. That is, unless, you’re talking about the town of Teublitz in the Upper Palatinate, a right between Schwandorf and Regensburg.

Teublitz has castle ruins, wine festivals (that’s plural, so there’s more than one), and a bunch of historic old churches too boot. Add in a trip to the Nature Park Höllohe and you’ve got yourself a good time.

My tale of Teublitz doesn’t end here — no, what fun is that? Wouldn’t you like to hear more about what I just mentioned? I know you would…

Where do we start? A question often asked when arriving in some small German town or village, no doubt. I’ll take the churches, as they’re tucked neatly away in the pretty Upper Palatinate countryside.

The Haferbründl Premberg (Premberg is one of Teublitz’s four divisions) has been around since the 19th century, and is much older than the Pfarrkirche St. Michael Katzdorf (yes, another division) which looks older than it really is. It was built only as far back as the 1950’s, BTW.

It’s the Pfarrkirche Herz-Jesu Teublitz that’s probably the most active of all of the town’s churches. Besides still holding church services, it’s the venue for many organ concerts and the Bruderschaftsfest in mid-September.

Funny, that’s right before and after the two wine festivals.

In case you didn’t catch that, there’s one Wine Festival in the beginning of September, and another at the end of September. For you vinophiles, I would say that this is the month you should be here, huh?

If you’d rather be shopping, early December is perfect for you since that’s when Teublitz holds its Weihnachtsmarkt — or Christmas Market.

I’ll take more of the historical, if you please. The Stadtpark has 13th century castle ruins, where a picnic or leisurely stroll would be idyllic. Then again, a visit to the late 18th century Schloss Teublitz is also quite lovely.

When a less urban (read: the countryside) setting will do, hiking or cycling around the Nature Park Höllohe is just right place to go.

Didn’t I tell you Teublitz had everything? I think I’ll be here for a while. See you next time. ;-)

It’s hard to talk about the Northern Black Forest Monasteries Route, or the Klosterroute Nordschwarzwald, without talking about the Black Forest itself. This slice of real estate was the stuff of legend and folklore, often misunderstood because of the light stealing trees that made (and make) the forest, well, spooky.

Maybe my fellow Germans from yesteryear read too many Brothers Grimm fairytales? Oh wait, the fear of treading into the Black Forest dates back before the Grimms, but the monks weren’t afraid. In fact, they not only conquered the landscape — they thrived in it.

So, it is in their honor that we highlight three of the most magnificent monasteries the monks built along this 104km long scenic route, as well as three gorgeous towns on top of it.

The Start of the Northern Black Forest Monasteries Route

The route starts in Alpirsbach at the the monastery of the same name. This was a small Benedictine kloster that was founded in 1095. A small church was built four years later, only to be replaced by a basilica in the 12th century. Some nine hundred years later, church services (both Catholic & Protestant) are still held here.

Kloster Alpirsbach is also a music venue with the Heidelberg Symphony and the Russian Chamber Philharmonic having played here. You’ll even find a small cinema tucked away for movies played here on weekend afternoons.

It’s hard to choose if the beer brewing or the glass blowing is the bigger highlight to visiting. Oh, alright, it’s a tie — it’s like comparing apples to oranges.

After leaving this oasis, you move northward to unforgettable Freudenstadt. It’s said that this lovely town has the largest Marktplatz in the entire country, but it also has a huge Town Festival every July and hosts the annual Black Forest Open Tennis Tournament.

As this is also the Black Forest Monasteries Route, I wouldn’t leave town before seeing the 17th century Evangelical Lutheran Church — convenient too since it’s right on the Marktplatz.

Calw is also on the itinerary if you’re meandering along this route. If you see anything while you’re here, make sure it’s the Calwer Schafott (an old execution site), the Toy Museum, and the tiny Nicholas Chapel (built 1400) that was erected right on the bridge.

Time to head towards the ruins of its Hirsau Abbey, whose history spans more than 1100 years. It was founded in 830 A.D. by a Count, and after many monks (and its Abbot) died in the 10th century the monastery fell into ruin for more than six decades. OK, the looting and warring factions over who was in charge didn’t help matters.

The St. Aurelius I Church (which held the relics of said St. Aurelius) was one of the first of the Abbey’s buildings (it stood until around the year 1000), with the St. Aurelius II Church built around 1049.

Two decades later came Sts. Peter & Paul, a Romanesque 11th century basilica. The Peter & Paul Church is still standing, as is the Lady Chapel; but the castle and cloister are only shells of their past magnificence (the French destroyed the place in 1692).

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying it like it’s a bad thing — there really is something magical and ethereal about these old ruins.

If you’ve got a “green-thumb,” you’ll appreciate the monastery’s herb garden that’s still growing all sorts of medicinal plants.

You know what’s funny? Your next town, Pforzheim, is called the “Gateway to the Black Forest,” but you know what? You’ve already been traveling through the Schwarzwald, so you know better, don’t you?

What you might not know is that Pforzheim is also on the Bertha Benz Memorial Route. Either way, the city of Pforzheim has awesome museums, stunning churches, castles & castle ruins, and an annual Wine Festival in August.

It’s probably a good idea to save the trip to Maulbronn to the Maulbronn Abbey for the day AFTER the wine fest, wouldn’t you say?

The monastery itself was built around 1138 by twelve monks of the Cistercian Order. Today the entire complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with many of its buildings acting as the Town Hall (the former stables), a police station, and a variety of restaurants.

Maulbronn’s crowning glory is its 12th century basilica church. The vestibule of the church, known as Paradise, is awash with Gothic and Romanesque arched windows. The crucifix inside the church is carved from one piece of stone, so the artwork you’ll find is totally stunning.

And I’m certainly not taking away from the monastery’s other buildings like the Fountain House, or its many half-timbered buildings that acted as the monastery’s bakery, pharmacy, mill, hostel, and guard house.

Industrious the monks were, huh? At least they were until their monastery was dissolved in 1534.

Just as the monastery came to an end, so does our time on the Northern Black Forest Monasteries Route. At least you’re finishing here at Maulbronn. So find a restaurant you like and reflect on all the religious devotion and splendid architecture you’ve seen along the way.

Northern Black Forest Monasteries Route Web Site

Here is the official Web site of the Northern Black Forest Monasteries Route.

Tragedy, murder, intrigue, and revenge all await you along the Nibelung-Siegfried Route, or Nibelungen-Siegfriedstrasse, which runs along around 310km from Worms to Wertheim on two different trails.

Don’t worry, I won’t take you along for something illegal. The Nibelung-Siegfried Route follows the tale of Siegfried, a dragon-slayer; and his wife Kriemhild who exacts her revenge on those who kill her beloved husband (and the Prince of Xanten who had magic at his disposal; how else are you expected to kill dragons?).

True story or fiction (some think it’s based on Norse mythology)? How about both. Siegfried’s tale, while based on 5th/6th century stories and legends, is told in the Nibelungenlied — the Song of the Nibelungs, an epic poem from the Middle Ages.

Either way, this route will take you along areas once walked by some famous cultures in history. Ever hear of the Burgundians (a Germanic Tribe from Scandinavia; hence the whole Norse mythology thing, huh)?

How about the Huns? No? Does the name Atila sound familiar?

All these characters are integral to the Song of the Nibelungs, and real German history.

Start of the Nibelung-Siegfried Route

If you haven’t guessed by now, the Nibelung-Siegfried Route is actually made up of two routes — the Nibelung Route (Nibelungenstrasse) and the Siegfried Route (Siegfriedstrasse). So yes, you get a two for one kind of package here.

Siegfried Route (Siegfriedstrasse)

As the story of the Song of the Nibelungs takes place in the Burgundian Court, it’s fitting to start off in Worms, the city at the center of royal life. Learn more of Siegfried’s story at the Nibelung Museum (and Nibelungenfest), then visit the city’s Romanesque Cathedral (even though the story takes place in pre-Christian days), the Luther Memorial, and the oldest Jewish cemetery in Europe.

Worms is also where you’ll see a statue of Hagen von Tronje, the man who “killed” Siegfried — but history says he was one of the strongest Burgundian warriors.

Bürstadt is at the mid-way point toward Lorsch, and the next stop along the way. While the Nibelung-Siegfried Route has to deal with the Burgundian Court, Bürstadt was the site of the Carolingian one; and is where you’ll find prehistoric grave mounds.

Once you arrive in Lorsch on the Nibelung-Siegfried Route head straight to the Lorsch Abbey where there’s folklore exhibit and mention of the Nibelung.

When you’re done at the Abbey and the Lorsch Cathedral, an afternoon of hiking and minigolf or sitting at a cafe on the Marktplatz is a very good idea.

The Nibelung-Siegfried Route splits here after Lorsch (told you, 2 for 1). Follow the “Siegfried” portion on to Fürth (Odenwald) where there are 450km of hiking trails, plenty of half-timbered houses, and guided tours are always a good idea.

It’s time to relax in the spa town of Grasellenbach. Imagine yourself as Siegfried as you sit under the Crooked Tree or visit the ruins of a Gothic chapel.

Arriving in Mossautal will bring you to what was once the Burgundian hunting grounds and the spot of a fresh water spring that Siegfried himself got to drink from.

Beerfelden is your next town with its thousand-year old Oak (around the time of Siegfried, I believe), forests, and mountain biking trails.

Leisure is the word of the day in Hesseneck, where you could just spend all your time swimming in the Eutersee.

St. Gandolf’s Church, the Templar House (built 1291) and the sauna are all on the itinerary in Amorbach; whereas it’s a holy pilgrimage to the Church of the Holy Blood, a visit to the Pilgrimage Museum, and the Jewish Museum in Walldürn.

Get ready to explore the caves (especially the Tropfsteinhöhle) and/or 300km of hiking and biking trails.

Siegfried never had it so good.

Tauberbischofsheim is where Siegfried meets up with the Romantic Road, the Church of St. Martin, and a Marktplatz surrounded by pretty framework houses.

More fairytale half-timbered houses wait for you in Wertheim, as well as a castle (12th century), an Abbey Church, and plenty of wine tasting opportunities.

Oh sorry, Siegfried never had it so good I guess. ;-)

Nibelung Route (Nibelungenstrasse)

As I mentioned earlier, just as the Nibelungenlied is divided into two parts, so is the Nibelung-Siegfried Route.

After Lorsch, the route is known as the Nibelungenstrasse which follows along to Bensheim (the City of Flowers) with more wine drinking and the Auerbach Castle.

Leading off to Lautertal (Odenwald), the Nibelung Route highlights carvings in stone from the Romans, an enchanting (not enchanted) forest, the Felsburg Museum and the Kaiserturm.

For the true medieval look no further than Lindenfels, where there are annual jousting tournaments, a Folklore Festival (appropriate in this case, don’t ya think), and a castle.

No need to worry about a place to stay, camp out in Reichelsheim (Odenwald). Or, just stick around long enough to visit Castle Reichelberg, the Rodenstein ruins, and the mid-16th century half-timbered houses.

Before Siegfried and Kriemhild, there were the Romans, and that’s what you’ll find in Michelstadt, Roman ruins. There is also a castle (go figure!), a Jewish Museum, and a Motorcycle Museum.

Not too much is left of the Nibelung Route once you get to Erbach (Odenwald) with its Baroque Castle, framework houses, and loads of cafes, pubs, and bars makes almost being at the end bearable. ;-)

Don’t think about how there are only two towns left on the Nibelung Route — get lost on all the hiking and Nordic Walking trails in Miltenberg. It’s home to one of the oldest hostels in Germany and a castle.

What’s the story of a prince without castles in it?

Wow, is what you’ll say about Freudenberg (Baden). It has an 11th century castle (Castle Freudenberg holds a Castle Fest on odd-numbered years), frescoes in its 13th century cemetery chapel, and and amusement park, and a swimming lake.

The Song of the Nibelungs ends with the death of Kriemhild after killing Hagen (and her own brother Gunther) for slaying her dragon-slaying husband and stealing her treasure. And so too must the Nibelung-Siedfried Route end in Wertheim (again).

And I’ll leave it up to you to decide if the story of the Prince of Xanten and his devoted wife (who married Atila the Hun just to put her revenge plan in action) were “real” or not.

Sure, England’s got the story of King Arthur and his Merry Men (sorry, that’s Robin Hood). I mean King Arthur and his Knights of the Roundtable; Germany’s got the Song of the Nibelungs.

I hope you enjoyed traveling along one of the two (or both) trails of the Nibelung-Siegfried Route.

Nibelung-Siegfried Route Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the Nibelung-Siegfried Route.

I don’t know about you, but if you have a “Bucket List” — and on that list is to take an African Safari with a chance to play with a little fuzzy lion (or baby cheetah, let’s not be picky), see some elephants, maybe even a giraffe or two…

So, if a safari kind of thing is on your “Bucket List” and a trip to Africa is out of the question, then maybe the German Wild Game Route, or Deutsche Wildstrasse, will work for you instead.

All right, you might not be able to see any giraffes or play with a cuddly (did I say cuddly, I meant ferocious) lion, but it IS like taking a safari through the Eifel region; and adding a few volcanoes (incl. the German Volcanoes Route) in for good measure (hence the Vulkaneifel — Volcanic Eifel).

But, even if a safari isn’t on your list, do yourself a favor and add this route anyway, because this short 146km route is pretty awesome!

Start of the German Wild Game Route

The Deutsche Wildstrasse is a circular route through the Rhineland-Palatinate centering around the Eifel.

Start in Gerolstein, a town that was once a Celtic Settlement and the site of quite a few Roman Temples — oh, and it’s built on a 10,000 year old volcanic crater.

Here you’ll want to head to the village of Pelm and its Adler und Wolfspark Kasselburg to get in on the eagle and wolf fun.

Gerolstein is also perfect for hiking and biking through the Eifel (an area created 400 million years ago by volcanoes), a perfect place to see all sorts of indigenous animals and birds that call this place home.

You’ll also see quite a few castles (a few in ruins, by the way); and one of which is now a meeting & culture center.

Next over is Daun, a town on the German Volcanoes Route. There are three volcanic lakes as well as the EifelVulkan Museum. But, that’s not why Daun is on the German Wild Game Route, it’s because of the town’s Wildlife Park — the Wild & Erlebnispark Daun.

Of course, that’s not the only reason to visit. Daun has mineral springs, natural rock formations, mountain biking, Nordic Walking routes, a Romanesque Church with 13th century crypts, an annual Eifel Marathon Bike Race, and the Dauner Burg.

The area around the “castle” has been used since 700 B.C. and was thought to be a Celtic stronghold. The castle’s been sacked quite often throughout the years, however, the last time it happened was in 1689 by naughty French invaders.

Since you’re traveling clockwise (well, in this article anyway) Manderscheid is the next town you’ll come to on the Deutsche Wildstraße. This is yet another Celtic & Roman settlement town — and has its own Villa Rustica (Roman mansion).

It also has 330km of hiking trails, one of them is the Eifelsteig leading from Aachen to Trier. There are the ruins of two castles (the Oberburg and the Niederburg), which is where you’ll go to party at the Castle Fest. The best museum in town is the Museum Maar, which is all about volcanic lakes.

If you haven’t noticed yet, a fun dialect of German is spoken here in the Eifel. You might not notice if you don’t speak German — but it’s a nice piece of trivia anyway ;-)

Next over is Himmerod with its 12th century Abbey. OK, so there aren’t any game parks (Tierparks in German), but this abbey was used for almost 700 years before it fell into ruin. In 1922 some monks reconsecrated the abbey and it now houses a museum, book shop, publishing house, art shop, cafe, fishery, and a guesthouse. I wonder if I bring them my manuscript of my book if they would consider publishing it? HMMMMM…

My opinion is that the German Wild Game Route was created because of Gondorf. Yeah, yeah, the village has got 2nd & 3rd century Frankish finds (including bones and artifacts) that are housed at the Wilhelm Hack Museum in Ludwigshafen. But, that doesn’t earn it its spot here.

It’s the Eifelpark, filled with everything from Canadian timberwolves (awww, they’re so cute, but they’re strong enough to do some damage!), emus, lynxes, deer, and birds of prey (think eagles & falcons). Can’t have a wild game route without wild animals now, could we? Besides, it’s a real theme park with amusement park rides and all sorts of other fun stuff.

I’m inclined to forget about the animals when I arrive in Bitburg, a town famous (and I mean FAMOUS) for its beer — which is probably why the Bitburger Brauerei is the town’s landmark.

Beer aside, Bitburg has its own castle, a Jupiter Column & remnants of a Roman wall (those guys sure did get around… Roman, roaming — close enough, eh?), and it’s got one of the largest folk festivals in all of Germany.

From there it’s over to Biersdorf am See in the southwestern part of the Eifel. After a quick jaunt to the Burg Rittersdorf, which is now a museum, get out into the nature park for all sorts of natural flora, fauna, and animals.

In Schönecken, in the West Eifel, you’ll find a town that’s been around since Celtic Times (about 500 B.C.).

It’s Castle Clara Costa is one of the largest in the Eifel and most visitors like to stop at the Castle Chapel of St. Anthony — which is where the annual Burgkapellenfest is held on the 1st Sunday in July.

However, to see the animals go to the Eifel Zoo (in nearby Lünebach-Pronsfeld), which is open daily from 9am-7pm. It’s a natural habitat for many creatures scattered around meadows, streams, and ponds. You’ll even find palm trees along the foot paths!

Your last town is an eight in one special because that’s how many municipalities are in the town of Prüm. This Carolingian town is another top location to enjoy countless walking and cycling paths through the gorgeous countryside.

You’re officially done! You can either head back to Gerolstein where you left off or pick another scenic route in Germany.

If the African Safari is still on your Bucket List, I sure hope you’re glad you made room on it for the Deutsche Wildstrasse, too.

German Wild Game Route Web Site

Here’s a rough overview of the German Wild Game Route.

Ha, you’d think with a name like the Green Route a.k.a. Route Verte a.k.a. Grüne Strasse that it’d be all about some sort of plant, or flower, or even a veggie. Nope, this Green Route is a 365km/227mi car & bicycle route through the Vosges and Alsace, France, the Upper Rhine Valley, and the southern Black Forest in Germany.

The Green Route started 50 years ago and was designed to bridge “a ribbon of friendship” between France and Germany. It worked. Now thousands of people every year find themselves traveling between Contrexeville, France (passing along French towns with German names like Munster and Turckheim) and Donaueschingen, Germany.

A couple of things first. It’s believed that the best time to enjoy the Green Route is anytime from late March to late September. Now, not all of you might like the cooler weather, but for those of you who do, you can easily enjoy making the trek in early March and even towards the end of October. Heck, even winter is fine in my books with all the winter heavens in the Black Forest.

Start of the Green Route (in Germany)

In Germany, the Green Route catches up at Breisach, a charming medieval town with a 12th century Cathedral (St. Stephensmünster), a few towers and gates (the Rheintor, the Hagenbach Tower, and the Radbrunnenturm), and a Jewish cemetery. Breisach’s oldest building is a charming half-timbered one from 1498.

Do you see how old this town is? That’s not even including the Stone Age exhibits found in the Municipal Museum.

After Breisach, what about exploring the nearby Kaiserstuhl region, with all its wine hills and hiking trails (great vistas included)?

Freiburg is your next big stop on the Route Verte. Come to an annual Tent Music Festival in July, a Natural History Museum (where else better to appreciate all the natural scenic beauty you’ve been traveling on), an Archaeological History Museum, a medieval tower (with a museum too), and a mineral spa.

Don’t you feel better already? Hey, biking is hard work — you deserve to pamper yourself. ;-)

Oh, I can’t believe I almost forgot about Freiburg’s annual Film Festival (which is not the same as its Gay Film Festival in late-April/early May). And of course, there’s always hiking or Nordic Walking along the Schlossberg.

Hmm, don’t you deserve another spa treatment? I think so.

The Green Route takes you next to Kirchzarten, a former Celtic town. It’s also home to a few castle ruins, a 9th century church, and a couple of chapels. Over at the Chapel of St. John, there’s a wonderful smelling Herb Garden.

Hinterzarten is a sports town — known for Nordic Walking, the Black Forest Ultra Bike Marathon, and its ski jump. If you don’t mind, I’ll be at the Weekly Farmer’s Market on Friday. Whatever you choose to do, the Black Forest around here is terrific.

Found within the Southern Black Forest Nature Park is the wonderful town of Titisee-Neustadt. Here you can hike and/or take a boat ride on the Titisee, as well as campout, climb the observation tower (what a view), or soak the toes in the Kneipp area.

Of course, a stop to the Local History Museum would be another good idea.

I can’t believe we’ve just about ended our tour — it seems like we just got started…

Löffingen is another medieval town on the Green Route. It’s also where you’ll find wild orchids growing in the Black Forest Trail Park (where you’ll also see yaks, wolves, and other kinds of animals), and prehistoric grave mounds. If you time it right you’ll be here for the yearly Lake Festival in July.

I’ve been having so much fun that it seemed like no time at all to get to Donaueschingen. Besides the 18th century schloss, the annual Carnival (usually February), the Horse Show in July, and the chance to travel along the Danube Cycle Trail — the best part is a 725 year old brewery that’s still going strong.

Ah, beer — for those of you who think that’s the perfect way to end the day, imagine how good it’ll taste after trekking 365km. ;-)

Green Route Web Site

Here’s the official Web site about the Green Route (a.k.a. Route Verte, Grüne Strasse).

Every year in Germany thousands of gourmands and regular folks (who just so happen to like good German food) travel along the Baden Asparagus Route, or the Badische Spargelstrasse, from April to June 24 (the official end of Asparagus Season) to appease their gastronomic cravings in the grandest of style.

It all starts in Schwetzingen, the Asparagus Capital of the World. Yeah, sure, there’s a castle that was once host to Voltaire and Mozart, but come April when everyone’s here for the Asparagus Run. They’re also here for the Spargelfest (Asparagus Festival) on the 1st weekend of May, and the Asparagus Market operating weekly on the Schlossplatz from April to June.

It’s tough to leave my beloved Schwetzingen, but you’ve got 136km to cover.

Hockenheim, your next town on the Baden Asparagus Route, can thank the asparagus plant for saving it. The place was totally devastated by war, and the cash crop of it jump-started the economy a couple centuries back.

I know that Hockeheim is more traditionally famous for its motorsports museum and formula 1 racetrack, but for two months a year you can join right in the asparagus picking fun. The Street Festival on the third Saturday in May is a nice way to sample a variety of asparagus dishes.

Reilingen, while it’s also on the Bertha Benz Memorial Route, is host to an annual Asparagus & Wine Fair (the sandy soil here grows a mean asparagus). Don’t miss its informative Asparagus Trail.

Next stop is St. Leon-Rot, where the asparagus earned its own exhibit at the Local History Museum. Finish your day off with a round of golf, for the best of both worlds — food and sports. ;-)

The next town on the Baden Asparagus Route is Bruchsal, home to the largest asparagus festival in Germany (mid-May, mind you). Other sightseeing includes a visit to its castle (with a castle festival in July).

The versatile “King’s Veggie” isn’t complete without a queen, so good thing one is chosen in Graben-Neudorf. Here’s where you’ll find a yearly event known as the Asparagus Cup in mid-May.

One look at the Japanese Garden or the castle in Karlsruhe and you might find yourself forgetting about asparagus for a minute there. Nah, the Strawberry & Asparagus Market every year is too delicious to pass up.

Goodness, you’ve just finished up the northern part of the Baden Asparagus Route. I bet you’re hoping the southern portion is just as tasty. :-)

We kick off the southern parts of the Baden Asparagus Route in Bietigheim, known for its regional cuisine using the asparagus in everything — including dessert. Between meals you’re always welcome to visit the town’s 12th century chapel.

Rastatt is often a stop along guided asparagus tours, and rightfully so — it’s another stop along the Badische Spargelstrasse. When you’ve had your fill of either the green or white variety (it’s white because it never sees the light of day to turn it green through photosynthesis) of your veggie delight, make time to see the Baroque castle, fortress, and its Jewish cemetery.

You’ll find many asparagus farms in the last town of our scenic Baden Asparagus Route, in Lichtenau (Baden); more precisely, in its Scherzheim district. Can you get any fresher an asparagus than right from a local farm to a local restaurant? No, I didn’t think so either.

Remember, whether you have it steamed, boiled, broiled, fried, or stir-fried this is one wholesome, good veggie for you. What better way to celebrate it than with a whole scenic route dedicated to what’s more precious than gold around here.

Baden Asparagus Route Web Site

The official (German) website of the Baden Asparagus Route.

When you think of Europe as a whole the most often thought about time period is often the Middle Ages. A period of history often romanticized despite years of war, plague, witch hunts, and religious prosecution.

Then along came the Baroque period, a new beginning of art, culture, and architecture starting around the late 16th century ending about two centuries later.

Along the 500km long Upper Swabian Baroque Route, or Oberschwäbische Barockstrasse, from Ulm to Lake Constance, you’ll see the best of this architectural style. A style that was encouraged by the Catholic Church, a style that inspired such Baroque composers as Handel, Vivaldi, and none other than Johann Sebastian Bach.

The Start Of The Upper Swabian Baroque Route

The Upper Swabian Baroque Route is divided between the Main and the spur routes known as the Western, Southern, and Eastern Routes. We’ll start at Ulm, the beginning of the Main Route, if you don’t mind. Follow this route to see the very best of churches, to castles, and everything in between.

Ulm, birthplace of Albert Einstein. I know he was born long after the Baroque period — but, young Albert grew up in the vicinity of Ulm’s Botanical Garden, the half-timbered crooked house, and the tallest Gothic spires (161 meters) in the world.

Following along your next biggest town on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route is Blaubeuren, where you’ll meet up with the German Framework Road. The Kloster Blaubeuren is a grand example of Baroque stylings — while the rest of the town has plenty of framework houses and a Prehistoric Museum.

Erbach (Donau) is your next town with not one, but two Baroque churches. The older Sts. Cosmas & Danian was built in 1711 and St. Martin fifty-six years later. If you like castles, there is the Renaissance Schloss Erbach.

Despite being so TOTALLY German, Oberdischingen has many houses in the French Baroque style and a Baroque Catholic Church known as the Swabian Pantheon. French Baroque, Italian Baroque, doesn’t matter — you’ll know you’re in Germany during Oberdischingen’s Oktoberfest. Prost!

Not all the town on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route are filled to the brim in the sightseeing department. But, if you don’t stop — you might find something that tickles your fancy.

Gamerschwang has both a castle and church, earning it a stop on this route. As well as the Bar Wendelin Chapel (built 1696) in Nasgenstadt.

Ehingen has quite a bit to see, so plan accordingly. A lot of activity takes place on the Ehinger Square, where you’ll find the Rathaus (Town Hall) and St. Blaise Church. There’s also the Baroque Castle Mochental, a Fashion Museum, a Roman Museum, and a Brewery Museum.

Over in Riedlingen, you want to see the village of Zell. Not only will you find the elaborate Baroque Castle Zwiefaltendorf, but also a Local History Museum, and a hanging garden. But, you’ll also meet up again with the Framework Road, meaning there are lots of framework houses to boot.

Yes, I know the Castle Zwiefaltendorf is technically in Riedlingen; and not in the next town of Zwiefalten. Here is the Cathedral of Our Lady, a former Abbey that’s now a center for psychiatry, and the Wimsener Cave for anyone brave enough to explore it.

Again we’re getting into technicalities. The next town is Dürrenwaldstetten, but that’s a village in the town of Langenenslingen. Whatever you call it, there are castle ruins (three to be exact), the Baroque Stauffenberg House (built 1728), and the extravagant Baroque St. Jacob Church.

Oh, we’re back to Albert Einstein again in Bad Buchau. Albert’s parents lived here in this mud & mineral spa town before he was born. Treat yourself to some spa services and a visit to the Stone Age Museum before moving on to Ingoldingen-Muttensweiler and its Baroque Parish Church.

Oh, cheers, another “Bad” town! Bad Schussenried has more than just spas. It has a beer stein museum, Pilgrimage Museum, Carriage Museum, and an outdoor “museum” of Swabian peasant houses, complete with thatched roofs. The Gate House at the monastery is your look into Baroque architecture, as well as the Library Hall with its elaborate carvings and paintings.

Aulendorf is a great spa resort town — perhaps why it’s on the Swabian Spa Route. Aulendorf’s castle is a museum and its Catholic St. Martin Church has found a way to tastefully integrate architecture from the Gothic to Classicism periods all under one roof.

Ebenweiler might be on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route, but its the 15,000 year old lake that you’ll remember the most. Take a dip, then head to Reute where you’ll see the Baroque frescoes and gallery at the Klosterberg.

Bad Waldsee is downright awesome! Its pedestrian zone is a fantastic place to shop & eat, its City Lake a great place to swim, and its Church Treasury Museum a fine place to sightsee. Who care that the Rathaus and Gasthof Zum Hirschen aren’t Baroque — they’re timber framed buildings, and they’re gorgeous!

Most visitors to Baindt come to see the Baroque former Abbey Church of St. John the Baptist. The rest of them come for the annual Wine Festival!

In Weingarten you’ll see one of the largest Baroque basilicas north of the Alps — the Basilica of St. Martin, which is also the town’s landmark. You’ve also got castle ruins and a City Museum, too.

Over in Ravensburg (and its villages) you’ve got quite a bit to see. In Ravensburg proper, there’s the church of St. Jodok, the St. Christina Church, a Buddhist Center, and its City Tower & Gates.

In Ravensburg’s village of Obereschach there’s a local history museum, Baroque St. John the Baptist, and the medieval Monastery Weissenau (built 1145). Gornhofen has the St. Walburga Church, and in Weissenau there’s the Baroque Church Sts. Peter & Paul.

Your next town on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route is just as busy as the one before. Markdorf has a Bishop’s Castle, a 13th century Hexenturm, and a late 17th century Baroque Hospital of Sts. Peter & Paul.

Oh grand, you’ve reached Lake Constance when you arrive in Friedrichshafen. The Baroque Church of St. Nicholas earned it its right to be on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route — but treat yourself to a boat ride first!

Another town on the Bodensee is Eriskirch, where the Siberian Iris in the town’s Nature Center will be the most memorable part of your visit here.

In Langenargen, you’ve still got Lake Constance — as well as a marina, its landmark Castle Montfort, and the Baroque St. Martin Church (1718). If you’re here in the summer, stay for the many summer concerts that are always going on.

It might be easy to forget that you’re on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route when you arrive in Tettnang. Why? Because of the Hops Museum, that looks at 150 years of hops growing in the region. Oh, do I have to spell it out? H-O-P-S equals beer! Beer. Baroque. Easy to get confused — now, where’d I put my pint?

Seriously, Tettnang is a Baroque lovers dream. There’s the New Palace, the Loreto Chapel, the St. Anne’s Chapel; and on the 1st weekend of July there’s the Montfort Festival (yes, more beer!).

Over in Wangen im Allgäu, there are the ruins of Neuravensburg, a local history museum, the St. Martin Church, and the town’s landmark, the Ravensburger Tor. If you only get to see one thing — make it the Rathaus, originally built at the turn of the 15th/16th century, then rebuilt in the Baroque style in 1719.

Would you believe there are still plenty of towns left on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route?

Argenbühl is next up with a local history museum, Ratzenried Castle, and a Baroque Church.

Over in Isny im Allgäu there’s a winter sports museum, historic Rathaus, Art Hall in the Palace, and original medieval church of Sts. James & George was rebuilt in the lavish Baroque style.

Kißlegg started as a Roman village. Now it’s a haven for hikers and cyclists with its trails and paths. History and culture lovers will appreciate the Old Castle with its Baroque interior and the New Castle is Baroque as well.

Wolfegg also has a castle and its St. Catherine Church is considered to be one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in all of Germany.

Bergatreute has two Baroque churches to offer travelers. The Parish & Pilgrimage church of Sts. Philip & James was built in 1730 and the St. Georg Chapel in 1718.

Perhaps you’ve heard of Bad Wurzach? Oh sure, you’ve got the Baroque Schloss Bad Wurzach (which was used a WWII POW camp for French officers); but, it once had a leper colony and is now famous for its Alpaca Farm.

Over in Rot an der Rot, you’ve got the Monastery Church of St. Verena to see — and the cemetery church of St. Johann (built 1737).

Ochsenhausen has an Imperial Abbey. Think of a grandiose Abbey Church on steroids. ;-) It started out as a Romanesque Church, then took on Gothic features, and then redone in a Baroque style.

Ummendorf also has a Baroque church. St. John might have been built in 1805 — but its Madonna dates to 1450. The town also has a castle with a Baroque church.

Biberach an der Riß does deserve its place on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route, but the half-timbered houses on the Marktplatz (including the Rathaus built in 1503) steal the show. There’s also a Film & Cinema Museum and a Russian Cemetery, showing that Biberach has more to it than just its architecture.

Gutzenzell-Hürbel also has an Imperial Abbey. But, what it’s most famous for is the Baroque Nativity scene that decorates the town from Christmas to Candlemas (February 2).

Laupheim is a pretty active town with quite a bit to see & do. Yes, it has a Baroque church (Sts. Peter & Paul), a Baroque Rathaus & Granery (built 1778), and the Kleinlauheim — once a castle, it’s now a police station and art gallery. When you’ve had your fill of this world, look to the heavens at Laupenheim’s Planetarium.

There’s yet another Imperial Abbey over in Maselheim. The abbey also has its own pond and mill — they make a great photo-op! There’s also a Railway Museum and the Burg Schlossberg to see, too.

Your next town is Illerkirchberg. Well, more specifically Oberkirchberg and Unterkirchberg with their Baroque churches.

The only place left on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route is the Monastery Wiblingen, just outside the town of Ulm (again!). This was once a medieval abbey (built 1093) and visited by Pope John Paul II. It was famous before that, for housing a Holy Cross relic — but its flamboyant, ostentatious, ornate Library Hall and Pulpit are truly what this route is all about.

Aren’t you glad you came see the Upper Swabian Baroque Route?

Upper Swabian Baroque Route Web Site

Here is an official site about the Upper Swabian Baroque Route.

It appears as if the Bergstasse is all about a picturesque mountain (berg=mountain) region, which follows along the foothills of the Odenwald from southern Hesse to northern Baden-Württemberg. But, nope, it’s about the wine, castles, and festivals too. You know, that sort of thing. ;-)

The Bergstrasse is a small route, yet packs a big punch. Town for town, Euro for Euro, this scenic route in Germany has a lot to offer for being only 70km long.

FYI, if you think the 68km of this route can be done in one day, you’re seriously mistaken.

The Start Of The Bergstrasse Route

The route starts in Darmstadt. You’ll pass by numerous universities and scientific centers there, and enjoy a few grand festivals like the Heinerfest in July (with lots of beer, music, and amusement rides).

Your next stop is Mühltal and its 13th century ruins of Frankenstein Castle. The town also has many 300-year old half-timbered houses and orchards. And since we’re on the Bergstrasse you’ll want to go up the nearby Ilbes-Berg (a.k.a. Magnetberg).

Your next town of Seeheim-Jugenheim has not one, not two, but three castles hidden away in the mountainside. The ruins of Castle Tannenberg was where the oldest handgun (ever!) was found, and it was the 1st burg to ever have been destroyed by a cannon. While you’re up here in the Darsberg, make sure you see the Castle Heiligenberg and what remains of Jossa Castle.

Alsbach-Hähnlein is where the Melibokus (the highest point on the Bergstrasse) is located. So proud of its medieval history, the town holds a Medieval Market and a Medieval Festival. But, you’ve come for the annual Wine Festival, haven’t you?

Poor Bickenbach — it had its castle taken away, as Castle Alsbach was once known as Castle Bickenbach. Don’t feel too bad for the place — it has a Villa Rustica, or an old Roman Villa.

We’ve come to the oldest town along the Melibokus, Zwingenberg. The sweeping views are highlighted by the medieval Stadtmauer, the remains of an old castle, a former synagogue, and plenty of framework houses.

In Bensheim there’s a wonderful wine festival on the 1st weekend of September, but don’t speed off too quickly. I’m pretty sure you’ll want to see the Bismarck Tower on the Hemsberg, all the timber-framed houses, and the castle ruins.

As you reach the border of Baden-Württemberg, Heppenheim really gets into the spirit of wine and winemaking. Every year on May 1st there’s an annual Vineyard Hike and a Wine Market at the end of June. I’d suggest staying here the night if you want to stay in a haunted castle. Starkenburg (built 1065) is now a youth hostel reported to be visited by the “White Lady.”

I don’t know if the burg is haunted — it could be wine talking. ;-)

After leaving Heppenheim and arriving in Laudenbach you’ve officially crossed into Baden-Württemberg. Laudenbach is an old village, but it does like to party. You’ll notice that first thing if you’re here for the Church Festival (1st weekend of September) and the Christmas Market in December. There are many hiking trails throughout the mountainous region, if you prefer something a bit quieter.

Your next stop is Hemsbach, a town that offers a Town Hall that was once a castle, a Jewish Museum housed in the former synagogue, and a Jewish cemetery. The Vierritterturm (4 Knights Tower) is one of the town’s most popular attractions. I wouldn’t miss it if I were you.

Time to move on to Weinheim, home of the fortress known as the Wachenburg. Sure, it might look old, but it’s only about a hundred years young. Unlike the ruins of Windeck Castle — a 12th century structure destroyed by the French in 1674. Also, pay a visit to Weinheim’s City Museum to hear about the area’s history — from its prehistoric days to around the Merovingian Period.

Let’s see, you’ve got castles, Roman sites, and medieval churches in the town of Hirschberg an der Bergstraße. That’s right, Hirschberg is home to the 12th century Hirschburg Castle, a Villa Rustica (an old Roman building), a 14th century church, and the Odenwald Bike Marathon every September.

With all the castles on this Bergstrasse Route, I think someone’s confused the Bergstraße with Burgstraße. ;-)

When you’ve gotten to Schriesheim, you’ve managed to intersect with the Bertha Benz Memorial Route (up until the end of the Bergstrasse). Whatever route you’re on, the hilly countryside of & around Schriesheim is perfect for a hiking workout. Plus, the view from its hills are simply breathtaking.

As if strolling along the town’s half-timbered houses isn’t enough. If you want a bite to eat with a stunning view, I’d suggest going to the ruins of Castle Strahlenburg whose restaurant is open from March to December.

Also, it’s Spring Festival in March has been going on for the last 500 years. Don’t you just love tradition?

There’s still a good number of kilometers left on the Bergstrasse — see what I mean about not being able to do it in just one day?

Hard as it is to pull yourself away from the festivities, Dossenheim is awaiting. The Weißer Stein (White Stone) makes a great lookout point, as does the site of the ruins of the Schauenburg (built 1100, destroyed four centuries later).

Don’t dawdle too long, the magnificent city of Heidelberg is next. The castle ruins sit along the Königstuhl, a magnificent viewpoint that overlooks the entire city. If you’ve managed to tear yourself away from the Upper and Lower castle, you’ve got 10 museums, art galleries, and botanical gardens to see.

You know, you’ll need at least two days in Heidelberg to accomplish just even half of what Heidelberg has to offer. Do yourself a favor, stay another night. ;-)

You’d think the small town of Leimen would be a let-down after Heidelberg, but no. It’s a nice contrast with its small coffee shops that overlook the steep hills. Try some locally brewed beer after some time along Leimen’s hiking and mountain biking trails.

Nußloch is a town painted with pretty vineyards. Go ahead, have a glass — you’ve earned it. Just don’t drive. Instead, hike up the Hirschberg hill for some pretty views.

The minute you arrive in Wiesloch you’ve reached the end of the Bergstraße. Can you believe it?

Wiesloch is chocked full of history, vineyards, and is home to the world’s first petrol station (Wiesloch is also on the Bertha Benz Memorial Route). The town’s pedestrian zone is great for shopping or just enjoying a glass of wine at an outdoor cafe overlooking the gorgeous Kraichgau Hills.

At the Marktplatz you’ll find a public bookshelf where you’re free to take or leave a book for others to enjoy. No one seems too interested during Wiesloch’s 10-day Wine Festival in late-August to early-September.

With all that vino, I don’t think I’d be too interested in books either. Do you?

Technically, the Bergstrasse is finished. However, bear in mind that for one day in May on an odd-numbered year, the route is closed for automobiles from Darmstadt to Heppenheim. Maybe they should do it more often. With all the wine drinking, no one should be driving anyway.

Ahh, consider it an excuse to just tag around a bit longer, it’s not like you won’t find anything to do. ;-)

Berstrasse Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the Berstrasse Route.