Schonungen — Pastoral Lower Franconian Town With Medieval Flair

August 7th, 2011

People throw words like charming, quaint, and picturesque around to describe bazillions of small towns around the world. I think I’m even guilty of doing it myself on occasion.

So, believe me when I say I really, really, REALLY mean it this time. I know I sound like a broken record, but each town in Germany is prettier than the last. Just come here, you’ll see what I mean.

Schonungen (and her eight other villages) really are charming, with their flower-box decorated half-timbered houses. Over in the village of Forst, the Tithe House (built 1567) is a remarkably striking building, as is the Old Pharmacy and the early 14th century Gasthaus zum Schwarzen Adler (Guesthouse To The Black Eagle).

Two churches in Schonungen are also a spot to see. The Church of St. Godehard, and the late 15th century Church of St. Michael. Take notice of St. Michael’s early 16th century baptismal font.

You even got a castle in Schonungen. Castle Mainberg’s tower was built in the 10th/11th centuries, while the castle has seen quite a bit of construction since it was built in 1245.

Between the framework houses, the churches, and the castle — stop by to see the site of the town’s former synagogue. It was here from the 18th century right up until Kristallnacht in 1938. A War Memorial also stands in town.

Schonungen might be charming, quaint, and picturesque (ha, I did that on purpose), but it’s also proper celebrating Franconian town.

Carnival kicks off the year in February, and there’s a Parish Celebration (um, that would be a church festival) too.

One of the biggest festivals comes on the 2nd weekend of July for the Mainberger Fair, and the annual Wine Festival (last weekend of July) is always a sure-fire hit.

At least you’ll eat great, whether there’s a festival or not. Asparagus and cherries are the largest crops grown locally, so eat up!

I bet those cherries taste scrumptious with that wine. Hold on, let me check…

Yeah, they both taste delicious. Care to join me?

Untergruppenbach — Wine Town With A Medieval Wonder

August 7th, 2011

The minute you find out that Untergruppenbach is within the Swabian-Franconian Forest mountain range you’ll be rushing right over from Heilbronn (which is only about 11km away) and/or the city of Stuttgart (for which Untergruppenbach is part of its Metropolitan Region).

But trekking around the many bicycle trails and hiking paths isn’t all there is. One of the biggest attractions is the 14th century Burg Stettenfels that sits high up on the hillside.

It’s not used as a seat of power for some Württemberg king or duke any longer; it’s now an outdoor theater and the venue for all sorts of musical concerts.

Every year on May 1st the castle hosts a huge medieval festival with everything from music of the Middle Ages to court jesters, and art. Sweet!

Stettenfels Castle isn’t the only medieval site, there’s plenty to go around. The town’s Church of St. John has a medieval tower, even though the rest of the church was built in the Neo-Romanesque style (appropriate, wouldn’t you say?).

And the Evangelical Parish Church is a Gothic wonder from the year 1359.

When you’re ready to leave the Middle Ages behind, you can turn your sight on some more modern history in Untergruppenbach. There are a good number of half-timbered houses found within the town’s six villages.

One of the most beautiful is found on Zollerstrasse 10 from the year 1793. But, that’s not the only one; the town’s New Town Hall is also housed in one from the 18th century. I wouldn’t miss stopping by the Old Town Hall, though.

I think I need a glass of wine — and Untergruppenbach is just the right place to do it. Viticulture has a long history here; and there is a historic winepress you can stop in to see.

With all the vineyards in the Untergruppenbach area, that’s reason enough to leave Stuttgart and Heilbronn, don’t you think? OK, that helps — but I am a sucker for medieval history too.

Uhldingen-Mühlhofen — Health Resort Town At Lake Constance

August 7th, 2011

It is believed that town of Uhldingen-Mühlhofen in the very south of Baden-Württemberg was once a Roman port town on the Lake Constance.

Without sounding flippant, it doesn’t matter much whether it was or it wasn’t. You’ll love this place as it is now.

However, in all fairness to our Roman neighbors it’s only right to mention that the Pfahlbauten Outdoor Museum is chocked full of Roman and Bronze Age archaeological finds. This is a very big reason that lots of people come here.

I think the stilt houses (built right over the water) would be reason enough. But, hey, what do I know? ;-)

And as fun as the Bodensee is, you still need to see the historical sites. Hmm, what is there?

For starters there’s the Baroque and Rococo Pilgrimage Church and Monastery of Birnau. The Birnau Cathedral is another huge attraction to the area. Maybe I should have added that to my Cathedral blog. Next time perhaps.

It wouldn’t be fair to leave out the St. Martin Church, as it has a 12th century tower.

The Unteruhldingen Chapel might have been built in 1505, but its altar is of a Baroque design. And the Chapel of St. Wolfgang (that’s such a German name, isn’t it) alter has a picture of the Salem Abbey on it.

Technically there is a castle (a Baroque one to be exact), but it’s now a conference center. So, does that count? Yeah, I guess it does.

Did I leave anything out? No? OK, time to move on then.

Uhldingen-Mühlhofen has a nature area to explore, with all sorts of birds, reptiles, and insects. OK, maybe we could do without the bugs, huh?

If you’re squeamish then you might not want to see the snake, lizard, and spider museum. Nope, sorry — I can’t do it, you’re on your own for this. ;-)

I prefer the annual Birnau Wine Festival in October or the Harbor Festival in July. Or, MAYBE the annual marathon run held every June.

There is also a Lake Bicycle Path that’ll take you along Lake Constance. Look out for the “20 Stations” that highlight ten millennia of the area’s history.

I know it sounds like a lot to do, but with over 2,000 hours of sunshine a year that shines on beautiful Uhldingen-Mühlhofen you’ll have plenty of time to see it all — plus go play in Lake Constance!

Oberstenfeld — A Treasure Trove Of Romanesque Architecture

August 7th, 2011

I’m sending out big kudos to my Art History college professor. Without her I would have never have appreciated everything to see in the town of Oberstenfeld.

The fact this town within the Stuttgart Metropolitan Region is also on the Württemberg Wine Road is secondary to its medieval architecture.

Yes, I’m ranking the wine drinking to the backseat when compared to the town’s magnificent churches and its castle.

Let me start at Burg Lichtenberg. This hilltop castle was built in 1197, and thought to be one of the prettiest (OK, that’s my opinion) Romanesque castles you’ll ever see. Visitors are welcome to see its tower, courtyard, and chapel from April to November.

The Romanesque theme follows over to the 11th century Church of St. Peter; that went unused for an umpteen number of years. It now serves for both Protestant and Catholic services on occasion — which will give you a reason to come see its medieval frescoes.

Over at St. Cyriakus the church itself was rebuilt around 1599, but its tower is a 13th century original.

This isn’t the last of Oberstenfeld’s churches — not by a long shot. The most impressive is the Collegiate Church of St. John the Baptist. The oldest part of the church is its crypt (circa 1025), has a nave from the early 13th century, highlighted by Baroque accents.

It’s open to everyone on Sundays from 11am to 1pm, with guided tours available for only a few Euro. Spend the money, it’s worth it to get a proper tour of this thousand year old church.

If you get a chance, the 9th century Gallus Chapel is located not too far from here.

All right, you’ve earned the right to follow your tastebuds to the wineries. The Württemberg Wine Road is a 511km scenic route (starting in Weikersheim, ending in Metzingen) offering all the best of viticulture.

Go ahead, find an outside café, order a glass of Riesling — perusing the town’s half-timbered houses (like the late 17th century Rathaus, Winzerhaus, and Pfründhaus).

I’m making a toast to you, Professor. Thanks, I learned a lot; and I hope the rest of you out there do too.

‘Seeing’ Oberkochen Has New Meaning, Thanks To Carl Zeiss

August 7th, 2011

There’s no reason why you shouldn’t see the Swabian town of Oberkochen. No, I mean really SEE Oberkochen.

Ha, you know I’m setting you up for something. ;-)

I’m not just talking about your normal, everyday, average kind of “seeing,” Oberkochen is home to the worldwide renowned optical company of Carl Zeiss that employs just about 4,000 people.

Optical. Eyes. Oberkochen. Get it?

Bad joke, I know.

Seems like just the right place for an Optical Museum (who knew!) that open Sunday to Fridays.

If the eyeballs aren’t what they used to be, maybe you should get them checked out in Oberkochen; because the nearby observation tower overlooks the Swabian countryside and the Alps.

Oberkochen’s view of the Alps isn’t its only attraction. The town lies near a nature park, so there are plenty of hiking trails to see flora & fauna close up.

One particularly interesting trail is the Karstquellenweg, that has “15 stations” that’ll tell you all about the natural side of the area.

Regular sight “seeing” (make me stop with the eye jokes) can be done at the Heritage Museum, located within the old Schillerhaus from 1860; and the Bilzhaus dates to around the 14th century.

Heck, that building’s a downright baby compared to the foundations of the Roman Keller.

And just because the Catholic Church of Saints Peter & Paul was built in 1900, doesn’t mean you should visit. The original Baroque church was too small for the bourgeoning congregation.

The same is true for the Protestant Church that was built in 1583. It was rebuilt bigger, and that too was a bit small. At least Oberkochen didn’t tear it down; they turned it into the municipal library!

I’d also recommend a visit to Aquafit, Oberkochen’s swimming center, and finishing off your day of fun with miniature golf and tennis.

Um, that would be regular tennis — not miniature tennis. ;-)

Aren’t you glad you came to SEE Oberkochen? I know I have. Now where did I put my glasses. Never mind, I’ll see if the Optical Museum will lend me a pair of theirs…

Ottobeuren — A Holy And Heavenly Upper Swabian Town

August 7th, 2011

The instant you arrive in the Swabian town of Ottobeuren you might notice the sense of holiness that surrounds the place.

How amazing that after almost 1,300 years the Monastery Ottobeuren still has that effect.

The monastery itself was built in 764 as an Imperial Abbey; but it has undergone many changes since then. It was originally built in the Middle Ages, and changed to a Baroque design over the course of 29 years from 1737 to 1766.

This major overhaul to the abbey and its basilica of St. Alexander and St. Theodore has earned it a rightful place on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route. Don’t forget to look up as its ceiling frescoes are magnificent. The artists didn’t overlook any detail when they created these, that’s for sure!

In addition to the artwork, there’s an Abbey Museum; and its library is filled with priceless medieval manuscripts.

The pious theme carries over to the Lourdes Grotto, an area with life-sized, cast-iron figures from the Bible and other notable names in Christian history.

One name in history is St. James. Sure, you’ve heard of him, the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela is legendary. Just so you know, the Bavarian part of the Way of St. James runs right though Ottobeuren; appropriate because of the abbey don’t ya think?

Care to know what else runs right through Ottobeuren (although is not part of it, officially)? It’s the Swabian Spa Route, a 180km scenic route that promotes healthy living the Kneipp way. You know you’re on the right track by following the onion dome & water wave signs.

Wow, that’s a lot to take in at one time, right?

There’s still one more place that you need to see; and that’s the observatory. Guided and public tours of this star gazing are available for anyone wishing to look to the heavens.

Again, seem appropriate here in the holy town of Ottobeuren; and I think you’ll agree. :-)

Elz — Westerwald Goodies With Ancient Buildings And Great Food

August 7th, 2011

The Hessian town of Elz was once along a very important trade route between Frankfurt and Cologne during the Middle Ages. Even though the town lost prominence over the centuries, it doesn’t mean the town itself isn’t pretty wonderful to see.

If you’re looking for the quintessential fairytale town, then you’ve found it in Elz. In fact, many of the town’s timber-framed buildings date to around the 17th century. The Rathaus, or Town Hall is a tad older, built in 1561.

Two others that are worth mentioning are the Loer House and the Bausch House. But, just about everywhere you turn around you’ll find that you’ll want to take photos of.

None of these Cinderella-type houses are the town’s landmark; nor is the 13th century Church of St. John the Baptist (this one is right near the Town Hall) or the Chapel of St. John. For that you’ll have to find the medieval Coat of Arms on the courtyard wall of the Monastery Schönau.

You won’t find it all serious business in Elz, as there are quite a few festivals that always make life worth living. The Elzer Kirmes is the St. John the Baptist Church festival on the third weekend of September.

For good eats you’ll want to try the local specialty called Zwetschgenkuchen or plum cake during the Kirmes festival. Don’t worry about pronouncing this plum cake, just eat it with whipped cream, and all will be right with the world. ;-)

At Christmas time the town sets up an outdoor ice skating rink with a 14-day Christmas Market set up around it.

When the weather’s warmer you’ll find plenty of hiking trails along the Westerwald, and an outdoor pool complex with everything from swimming to table tennis and volleyball.

With so much to see and do in Elz, I’m scratching my head wondering why on Earth this town isn’t as popular as it once was.

Oh well, I guess that leaves more room on the ice rink for me and you… ;-)

Ehningen — Fun Is Always In Swabian Fashion

August 7th, 2011

There have been many changes in the town of Ehningen over the years. This tiny town in the Swabian region had only about 300 residents at the end of the Thirty Years’ War.

As the centuries progressed its population didn’t grow too much, having only about 2,000 people by the time World War II ended. Afterwards, however, the population exploded; it’s now where some 8,000 people call home.

I think they just wanted to keep the place all to themselves. ;-)

Maybe not since tens of thousands of people flock to Ehningen during the annual three day Pfingstmarkt or Pentecost Market and Festival every year. You got to check the Christian calendar for exact dates — but it’s usually about 50 days after Easter.

The Pentecost Market and Festival isn’t the only thing that makes Ehningen special. It could also be the Bronze Age burials mounds and the former Celtic settlement. Plus, there was a Roman estate that used to be here.

Right over by the Roman estate is the Moorish Castle, which was built around 1320. I’m sorry to say this early 14th century medieval castle now lies in ruins.

The Protestant Church of St. Mary (from the 15th or 16th century) isn’t in ruins, but isn’t used all that much anymore. Neither is the Church of Our Lady; which has long been a site of religious pilgrimage.

Too bad the original defense wall gates of Ehningen’s Old Town aren’t here anymore. But, if you want to know where they WOULD have been, follow Königstrasse; and the Linsentor would have been found on Dagersheimer Strasse.

Don’t think I’m sending you off on a wild goose chase, considering it a warm up for all the hiking and cycling you can do around these Swabian parts. Add that to the tennis and swimming, and you’ve got a pretty great time.

Now that’s something that doesn’t change with time — fun is fun no matter what century it is. Am I right?

Zell am Harmersbach — Black Forest Goodies, All Is Well :-)

August 7th, 2011

You might keep hearing time and time again about how the town of Zell am Harmersbach in the Ortenau was once the “smallest imperial city” in the Holy Roman Empire. It seems almost appropriate since the entire town was founded by the Imperial Abbey of Gengenbach.

Get it? Holy Empire? Monastery? Oh, never mind. ;-)

Zell might be old (sorry to say many of its framework houses were destroyed by a fire in the early years of the 20th century), but its Storchenturm, built in 1330, is still around. It’s the only piece of the town’s defense wall still remaining; and it’s now a wonderful history and crafts museum.

Another museum that you need to see in Zell is the Fürstenberger Hof, also called the Fürstenberger Farm Museum. Whatever its name, it’s a thatched roofed building built in the 1660s that’s now a museum on the history of farming. The Fürstenberger Hof is open from April to October and visited by thousands of visitors from all over the world.

It’s time to go from the historical to the contemporary over at the Villa Haiss. And when I say contemporary, I mean from the mid-1940s onward. The entire museum is filled with sculpture and paintings from both American and European artists.

Each of these museums does have an entrance fee; however Zell offers a special 3-museum pass for only around five Euro. How nice of them to save everyone some money, right?

Nothing’s cheaper than free, so luckily every Tuesday from April to October the town offers a guided tour of the town.

As if walking some of the 3000 kilometers of hiking trails found around the Black Forest Nature Reserve isn’t enough exercise? That’s not even adding in even more kilometers of cycling paths.

Don’t look at it like it’s insurmountable; just think about all the mineral springs you can soak your bones in afterwards.

I prefer to think about all the Black Forest food, but that’s another Web page, isn’t it?

Nettersheim — Another Great Health Center In The Eifel

August 6th, 2011

After just reading about Nettersheim in North Rhine-Westphalia, you’ll instantly feel better. So, can you imagine how good you’ll feel after you’ve been here?

It’s all about sports and health in this town, with everything from regular old walking paths to Nordic Walking trails.

But, I look at it this way — if I’m going to go wandering around into the great outdoors, I want to do it by volcanoes.

Do you not know me by now?

You know I said that because Nettersheim sits along the volcanic Eifel Region. This area is great for bicycling, as well as just using your own two feet.

Quite a number of these walking trails around Nettersheim are really family friendly (meaning you won’t have the kids screaming their feet hurt or asking “are we there yet?”).

Of course, if you really want to get away from the evil people (oh, I mean your wonderful, amazing children, ha-ha) then you’ll want to go right to the Eifelhöhen Clinic with health classes, a pool, and a sauna.

In winter, Nettersheim doesn’t just “shut down for the season.” No, you’ve got skiing, cross-country skiing, and all other kinds of winter wonderland fun.

To engage your mind, I’d suggest a visit to the Kulturbahnhof Nettersheim, a cultural center with all sorts of exhibits.

Over at the Eifel Nature Center there are all sorts of exhibits on man-made and natural history. Again, with volcanoes — nice, isn’t it? The best part is the Nature Center is totally family friendly, so even the kids can learn something.

An interesting way to experience the Eifel, or Nettersheim as a whole, is a multimedia CD that can be purchased at the Rathaus (Town Hall). For less than three Euro you’ll learn all about the town’s eleven hamlets and countryside.

Yeah, I do feel better already — I’ve turned up the volume on my Nettersheim CD & can’t hear the kids. ;-)

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