Have you ever heard the expression “worth your weight in salt”? Did you ever wonder where this came from?

I’m not exactly here to answer that question specifically — but, these inexpensive white crystals weren’t always so cheap. Salt mining and transportation was medieval big business.

The Old Salt Road (Alte Salzstrasse) is a relatively short route (only about 110km) from Lüneburg in Lower Saxony to Lübeck in Schleswig-Holstein, but it often took about three weeks to make the trek during the Middle Ages. The necessity (and money) created from the salt trade was more than enough incentive to take this arduous journey.

Today, the Old Salt Road can be traveled in less than about two hours. HOWEVER, if you followed the route in that short period of time, you’d miss out on some pretty spectacular towns.

The salt that was transported along the Old Salt Road was mined in the town of Lüneburg, just north of the Lüneburg Heath. In fact, the entire Old Town is built right over the mined Salt Dome. Seems like the perfect place for the German Salt Museum and the Lüneburg Salt Works then, right?

The Salt Works is now the location for the town’s annual Oktoberfest and Spring Market. Sounds good to me!

Lüneburg isn’t (wasn’t) all salt, it had quite a few breweries in its heyday; and it’s where Johann Sebastian Bach went to school as a child. For a piece of 20th century history, Lüneburg was where Heinrich Himmler killed himself in 1945 — buried in an unmarked grave in the forest.

After transporting the salt over land, medieval workers brought the “white gold” to the town of Artlenburg on the Elbe River, then transported it over the canal. Artlenburg, a town of only a handful of residents, isn’t too different from how it was five centuries ago.

Geesthacht was another town along this route; and where it meets up with the Elbe Cycle Track. Sorry, there’s no historic Town Hall but, its Geesthacht Museum is located within a fantastic half-timbered house and its St. Salvatorius Church is utterly charming.

Schwarzenbek might not have been a significant stop along the Old Salt Road. But, it’s a great place to practice your Low German, take in a game of tennis, and enjoy the Daffodil Festival (March), Europe Week (April), and the Wine Festival.

Mölln, another important stop along the Salt Road, is still a town with little winding lanes and where the St. Nikolai Church still stands. But, it’s also quite modern with miniature golf courses, a game park (Tierpark), and there are paddleboats over at the town lake. Art lovers will no doubt love the Eulenspiegel Museum, housed in a framework house built in 1582 and filled with German literature, paintings, and sculptures.

Ratzeburg is the next town on the Alte Salzstrasse. Its Old Town is an island and once the former East German border. Historians will love the Ratzeburg Cathedral, the 11th century church of St. George, and the 15th century Ansveruskreuz still stands today. More of Ratzeburg’s history can be learned at the Regional Museum. The Domhof is also a museum (and concert hall), but it was once just a Baroque mansion for some duke.

Thousands of visitors flock to Ratzeburg every year for the Rowing Regatta, the Fencing Tournament, and its outdoor cinema — so not just for the salt! ;-)

Would you believe that you reached Lübeck, the last town on the Old Salt Road already? No medieval salt trader would believe you did it this quickly!

Lübeck has the largest port on the Baltic Sea; and its significance on the Salt Route had something to do with it. Salt was transported from this port to places as far away as Scandinavia, Russia, and the Baltic States. Seems like a proper place for a Port Museum, so good thing there is one!

Other museums in Lübeck is the St. Annen Museum and a Theater Puppet Museum. One of the most gorgeous sites in Lübeck is the Holstentor, a massive city gate built in a Brick Gothic style now a UNESCO World Site.

Next to the Holstentor is the Salzspeicher, brick salt storehouses from the 16th to 18th centuries. If these large storehouses don’t show the scale of how big the salt industry was, I don’t know anything that will.

So the next time you’re sitting at the dining table think about all the work that used to go into bringing it!

A good friend once told me that it isn’t all about just the historical sites when you’re on vacation. What? Why else would someone trek all the way around the globe to places like Winterbach in Baden-Württemberg?

For real, can’t you just picture yourself strolling down small cobblestone lanes with framework houses (you know, those fairytale looking homes) just beckoning you to take a picture? Yeah, me too.

Funny, friend. Especially since Winterbach has not one, not two, but three Town Halls (called a Rathaus, BTW) — two of which are those fantastically charming half-timbered beauts!

Sorry, the gorgeous St. Michael’s Church might not be a half-timbered, but you’ll still love it. Even better that it’s located right next to two of the Town Hall buildings — so there’s no excuse to miss it. ;-)

Even Winterbach’s Local History Museum is a piece of this architectural history. The museum is housed within the Haus Dopelmann, a framework house built in 1776.

But, in all fairness to my buddy, I can scope out the rest of Winterbach. I found that the town likes to get down & party hearty! Every year at the end of June there’s the Winterbacher Brunnenfest (Fountain Festival), that’s not even counting the annual Summer Festival in July; and on odd-numbered years, there’s a grand Cultural Fest.

Speaking of culture, Winterbach has all sorts of art exhibitions throughout the year, and a medicinal herb garden which teaches about the curative properties of plants (located at Eichenweg 22).

To combine a little bit of culture with some exercise, I’d suggest joining the Nordic Walking Days in September. Everyone from all over gets together to trek the three different routes (3.5km, 6km, and 9.9km, respectively).

Of course the Nordic Walking trails are open to hikers other times of the year, just so you’re aware.

What isn’t open year round is the outdoor swimming pool — that’s only from April to September. But, you’ll have swimming, volleyball, table tennis, basketball, and BBQ packed within those six months.

Maybe what my friend said has SOME merit, but I still always manage to come back to picturing myself strolling down cobblestoned streets. Don’t you?!

You know you’re “important” when a country designates an entire scenic route to your family name. The name Hohenzollern can trace its roots all the way back to the 11th century (although it was just known as Zollern back then) all the way up to present day.

The House of Hohenzollern no longer rules the area once known as Prussia, as well as Germany and Romania as of the end of World War II. Yet, the family never “officially” given up their rightful claim to region. But, no “prince” today is recognized as rightful heir to the area. (I say prince because the Hohenzollern Line only follows the male lineage).

Start of the Hohenzollern Route

The Hohenzollern Route, or Hohenzollernstraße in German, follows the region that these princes once ruled. But, if you’re going to be a prince, you might as well be one in what could possibly be the most beautiful region of Germany… the Swabian Alb in Baden-Württemberg.

Now, don’t worry about getting lost. The Hohenzollern Route is a 300km circular route. But, technically the route starts in the village of Glatt (part of Sulz am Neckar). While you might think that Glatt is just some small sleepy village, it can boast that it has one of the oldest Renaissance castles in South Germany.

Hey, can you think of a better way to start a Royal Family scenic route than with a castle? Yeah, me either!

Your next town is Haigerloch which sits atop an Atomic Cellar. In addition, it has many framework houses, an 18th century Pilgrimage Church, and a Roman Tower. Haigerloch’s former synagogue (which was open from 1783 to 1938) is now a Jewish Museum.

Oh, you’re going to love the next town on the Hohenzollernstraße! Hechingen is not only the hometown of Elsa Einstein (wife of Albert Einstein) and Markus Wolf (the world’s best spy!), it’s where you’ll come to see Burg Hohenzollern!

Hohenzollern Castle is an architectural masterpiece originally built around 1000 A.D. with improvements made throughout the centuries. It has both Protestant and Catholic chapels (because the Hohenzollern Line split between the two religions); and proudly displays the crown of Wilhelm II.

The Hohenzollern castle is really spectacular, receiving over 300,000 visitors a year. I’m sure the Christmas Market, theater performances, and concerts have something to do with it, too.

Now Hechingen has a lot more going on that just the Burg. Really, I wouldn’t lie. Perhaps you’d like to visit the Roman Outdoor Museum or the restored 18th century synagogue? Did I mention that Crown Prince Wilhelm and his wife Cecile are buried in Hechingen’s cemetery? No? Well, you should go nonetheless — this is the mighty Hohenzollern Route after all!

Albstadt is quite the outdoorsy town. Other than a visit to the Textile Museum, you’ll mostly be outside in a hot air balloon or taking a guided hiking tour. Sounds good, yes? BTW, the Hohenzollern Route leads you through its Onstmettingen neighborhood.

If you like Albstadt, you’ll love Trochtelfingen. It has a quaint local history museum and the frescoes found in St. Erhard’s Church are just brilliant. Beer lovers will truly appreciate the Brewery Museum, shoppers the Martinimarkt (2nd Monday in November) & Christmas Market (2nd Advent weekend), and historians Castle Trochtelfingen. This is a town that can make the most discriminating traveler happy.

Another town ending in -ingen is Gammertingen. Set right around the Nature Reserve Fehlatal, outdoorsy types will be more than happy just walking or cycling around. Although you might want to come into town to take in a concert at the Town Hall that was once Castle Spethsches. I would suggest not missing the ruins of Burg Baldenstein, an 11th century castle that was destroyed in 1150 and never rebuilt. Ohhh, don’t you just love those kinds of places?

Your next town on the Hohenzollern Route is Hettingen, where views from the watertower look over the verdent countryside. Look closely, you’ll see the 11th century Castle Hettingen (home to the Carnival Museum), the Sebastian Chapel with its 17th century frescoes, and the St. Martin Church — originally built 499 (no, that’s not a misprint!).

Now you history lovin’ folks are gonna fall in love with Veringenstadt! Go ahead, ask me why. OK, I’ll tell you. Veringenstadt has the oldest Rathaus in Hohenzollern (built 1415) that’s now a local history museum. Look for the “witch’s shirt,” a rare piece of apparel that was used to “brand” accused witches. Pretty neat, no?

It also has castle ruins (Castle Veringen, 12th century), beautiful frescoes in the castle chapel; and more than 30 caves to explore. With places like this, it’s no wonder that the Hohenzollern’s don’t want to give up claim! I wouldn’t either.

It’ll be hard to leave Veringenstadt, but when you get a gander at Sigmaringen you’ll be REALLY glad you did. Located along the Upper Danube Nature Park, Sigmaringen has plenty of medieval buildings in its Old Town. The best way to understand and see it all is by taking a guided tour. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did — then go back and take your time to see the Prince Art Museum and Schloss Sigmaringen.

The Hohenzollern Route now meets up with the Upper Swabian Baroque Route & the Swabian Poet Route in the town of Ostrach. Museum-goers will love this place! There’s not only a local history museum but, a Folklore Museum, a Landmark Museum, and a Fashion Museum too. Then again, this is a “noble” family route — so don’t miss the 11th century ruins of Burg Burgweiler.

There are more German scenic routes that cross Pfullendorf, the next town along the Hohenzollern Route. Besides the Upper Swabian Baroque Route, Pfullendorf is on the German Framework Road and the Way of St. James (a pilgrimage route). Plus, it is really close to Lake Constance!

Don’t know what to see first? Yeah, it’ll be hard to choose, so good thing I’m here to help!

Wald (Hohenzollern), the next town, also has its own monastery. Kloster Wald was built in 1212 and almost destroyed in the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648). It was quickly rebuilt so many of the monastery’s buildings are only from the 17th century. Its hiking trails winding around from the monastery are a modern touch.

Between the Danube and Lake Constance is Meßkirch. Walking through here is like taking a time machine from present day (with its Classic Car Museum) back through the centuries (its early 15th century castle), to its Diana Temple (the largest Roman estate in Baden). Yes, that’s like 2000 years of history neatly packed within 76 square kilometers! :-)

Oh, the food is quite excellent in Meßkirch, too. At Fastnacht (right before Lent starts in Feb/Mar) everyone enjoys the Katzendreck Bisquitboden made with butter, cream, chocolate, nuts, and rum. Yeah, my thoughts exactly — YUM!

Now that we’ve gotten a delicious nosh, it’s back to castles! Leibertingen, a town of barely 2,500 people, has the fortress looking Castle Wildstein and Caslte Leibertingen. It also has four churches and many forest trails where if you look you’ll see an eagle or owl. Pretty awesome for a town that’s just a little blip on the map!

If you think Leibertingen is small, wait til you get a load of Beuron! Sleepy lil’ Beuron has only 713 residents — yet, over a 100,000 people a year come to see the Benedictine Abbey Beuron alone! While you’re at it, you might as well see the ruins of Castle Falkenstein and the Chape St. Maurus. Sorry, Schloss Werenwag is private property.

All right, with all this noble and royal history it’s about time you just had some simple fun! Come to Schwenningen’s Straw Park where every year in the late summer you can see all sorts of creations created from straw! What, tell me you didn’t see that coming? ;-)

Sadly, we’re almost at the end of the Hohenzollern Route, only three more towns left. I hope you’ve enjoyed the trip so far — I know I have!

After leaving Schwenningen (Heuberg) you’ll arrive in Meßstetten, where you’re at one of the highest points on the Swabian Alb. The nearby caves are what draws thousands of visitors to the area. OK, being close to the Limes-Straße doesn’t hurt, either.

Known as “Little Venice” around these parts is Balingen, because of all the tiny intersecting waterways. It’s also known for its winter sports like ice skating, ice hockey, skiing, snowboarding, and bobsledding. Did I miss any? No, good! I would suggest waiting for warmer weather to play golf.

This is it, Owingen, neighborhood of Haigerloch, the last village on the Hohenzollern Route before you arrive back in Haigerloch proper. If you’re going to see anything at all in Owingen it should be the Weilerkirche which is the oldest Roman church of the entire route. Go ahead, imagine yourself a Hohenzollen and pray for your land from here. It’ll be our secret! ;-)

I’m sorry to see our time together on the Hohenzollern Route is coming to an end.

Remember, this entire route can be taken by car, bicycle, and/or your own two feet. So, maybe you can do the whole thing three different ways, and maybe run into a real-life Hohenzollern along the way. ;-)

Hohenzollern Route Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the Hohenzollern Route.

I know I tend to joke about Bavaria’s beer gardens and festivals, poking fun about how I’d like to drink while you’re off exploring the sites of some town. Then I find a place like the Swabian town of Ichenhausen, which somehow manages to make me stop kidding around for a few minutes.

Please don’t get me wrong, it’s not a dried up old town where they roll the sidewalks up at 6pm. It’s just that Ichenhausen’s large Jewish population (making up 13% of the entire town’s population prior to World War II) is now gone.

The only thing that remains of Ichenhausen’s Jews today is the former synagogue (destroyed in 1938), which is now a cultural meeting center with an exhibit detailing how they lived here from the mid-16th century until the Nazis took power in the 1930’s.

Also highlighted within the synagogue are traditions of the Jewish people, as well as their history within the region. The building, as it is a culture center, also holds many literary readings, concerts, and art exhibitions.

The other site that remains of Ichenhausen’s Jewish citizens is the Jewish cemetery. It’s divided into four sections with the oldest part dating to around 1536 (it’s not very well preserved, but historical nonetheless).

The “new” section was used from the 19th century until 1942, when the last Jewish resident from town was buried. That wasn’t the last funeral, though. Ichenhausen’s Jewish cemetery was used again in 1945 to bury 18 Hungarian Jews from the Burgau forced labor camp; and the last one in 1946 to bury three from a displaced persons camp after the war.

Both the former synagogue meeting center and cemetery are open to visitors on the 4th Sunday of the month from March to October (1:30p-5pm) or by special appointment.

Other sites in Ichenhausen include swimming at the Günz (River & Dam) from mid-May to the middle of September. If you got the urge to swim in the winter, you’ll have to do it at the indoor pool.

Then you’ve got the School Museum at the Lower Castle (open Tuesday to Sunday); and the Upper Castle (built 1566) is now the town’s Town Hall.

I like the timber-framed Roßkammhaus that was built in 1680; and is now the town’s public library.

If you’d rather be outside than inside, I suggest the Celtic Path with information stops detailing the life of the Celts — and their deaths as there are Celtic grave mounds along the trail.

Might I also suggest a visit to nearby LegoLand Germany theme park (just north in Günzburg), which is open from April to November. This place will sure make you feel like a kid again.

Now, it’s time for a beer. What? I only said Ichenhausen makes me stop joking around and forget about beer for a few minutes — and we’ve certainly passed that by now. ;-)

It’s the year 1904. Trains roll through town bringing well-dressed folks to this area of Baden-Württemberg. Kids are off playing with whatever it is that kids play with. Wives are working hard in their kitchens. Then all of a sudden a huge fire breaks out, burning down their beloved Ilsfeld.

It does tell a horrid tale about this picturesque town where more than 125 buildings and almost a hundred farms were leveled, not to mention almost a thousand people were left without homes.

Sure, it would be a sad tale if Ilsfeld hadn’t recovered, rebuilding itself; and it’s a good thing that not all of Ilsfeld’s timber-framed houses were burnt to a crisp. Otherwise, you wouldn’t have any to look at while you’re here (the old Pharmacy, Gasthaus Ochsen are still here).

And it’s also the reason you’ll find an Art Nouveau Town Hall, instead of a Renaissance or medieval one.

Some of the original St. Bartholomew Church still remains, mainly its late-Gothic tower and choir. The church is also the site of the Ilsfelder Holzmarkt (Islfeld Timber Market), a 500 year old event that takes place on the last weekend of August.

At the Desert House, there is a remnant of a 15th century chapel — which wasn’t destroyed in the 1904 fire. I would also recommend seeing the ruins of Helfenberg; this too wasn’t destroyed in the great fire, it’s been like this for eons.

I did tell you Ilsfeld rebuilt itself, didn’t I? No way better to see it than enjoy a day at the outdoor swimming pool or horseback riding around the countryside. Which I know you’ll really enjoy since its on the Württemberg Wine Route, so giddy-up & get drinking! ;-)

You’ll see more vineyards if you’re cycling around on the Schozach Alb-Neckar Cycle Route (or just around the Swabian-Franconian Forest). Yeah, if you’re gonna be drinking, it’s best to walk or go by public transport.

I’m really sorry that so much was destroyed here at the turn of the last century, but I really like Ilsfeld as it is today; and I think you will, too.

It’s common knowledge that Germany is known for many things: cars, beer, wine, cuckoo clocks, Black Forest Cake… you get the idea. But, the town of Kirn is known for whiskey.

German whiskey?

Yeah, would you believe it? So, if you’re a manly man and appreciate a good swig then you’ve got yourself to the right place.

You don’t have to be a guy to appreciate the stuff, though, even the ladies like to come to the Whiskey Museum to see how the stuff is made.

Throughout the year whiskey tasting events are held with bagpipes playing in the background. Yeah, for a few minutes you’d think you were in Scotland.

Alas, no, this is all Germany especially after realizing you’re at the start of the Hunsrück Schiefer- und Burgenstraße, a German scenic route showcasing slate and castles through the Hunsrück region (guided tours are available).

One of the castles on this route is also Kirn’s landmark, the Kyrburg. Built in 1128, this ruined castle is the setting for operas, concerts, and festivals.

And another castle ruin is in Kallenfels.

I’m pretty sure you didn’t come all this way just to see some castles, did you? How about the Fürstliche Kellerei, a royal wine building from 1771 that’s now a restaurant. Sit, eat, and have a glass of Riesling while you’re here.

Feel better? I know I do. It’s time to move on to see the Rathaus (built 1752) that was once a convent chapel, and the 19th century St. Pankratius Church whose tabernacle is a masterpiece of the Middle Ages (1482).

Kirn’s Evangelical Church was rebuilt in 1875, but its medieval tower (11th/12th century) still stands. For 200 years the church held both Catholic and Protestant services (1681-1892), and a nobleman (nobleperson?) is buried here.

As you see more of Kirn, you’ll pass many of the town’s half-timbered houses, giving the place a true fairytale feel. If you’re shopping at the Andreamarkt that’s been taking place for 300 years on the last weekend of November, make sure you stop to look around. I’d hate for you to miss something.

Kirn is proud of its history, but it’s not stuck there. Nordic Walking paths, art exhibitions, miniature golf, Puppet Theater, and the annual Summer Party await you. So does Oktoberfest, although that implies more a beer drinking tradition. However, in the case of Kirn, some whiskey will certainly do. ;-)

There are a few things that are constant in this ever changing world of ours. First, the sun will rise in the East and set in the west (at least in the northern hemisphere). Second, it will inevitably rain when you’re having the best “hair day” of your life. And third, Germany will have more forests than one can possibly count.

Oops! I’m going off on some tangent (again). But, you see just when you thought you knew all of Germany’s forests, you learn about a new one; like the Bienwald along the town of Kandel in the gorgeously pastoral Palatinate.

Hmm, are you wondering which one Germany has more of: scenic routes or forests? Well, let’s leave that answer for another Web page…

Where was I? Oh, yeah, Kandel and its Bienwald (a.k.a. Bien Forest).

The town itself sits just to the west of the Bienwald (so is France and its Alsace). And there are many hiking and walking trails throughout the forest. If you’re worried about getting lost, take a guided tour instead of venturing out on your own.

But, I don’t think a guided tour is going to stop at one of the grill huts for an afternoon picnic. On second though, who wouldn’t want to stop for some German bratwurst and wine. I know I wouldn’t turn it down. ;-)

Some of Kandel’s other sightseeing includes a visit to the St. George Church, the St. Pius Catholic Church, its Baroque Town Hall from 1773, and the oldest half-timbered house in town — the Schafhaus. Which is right next door to the Dampfnudeltor, both are from 1660.

Speaking of Dampfnudel, this is a local specialty you definitely need to give a try.

Thank your lucky stars if you’re in Kandel during one of its festivals or markets. The 2nd Sunday of March is the annual Bienwald Marathon, the May Fair kicks off on the last Sunday of May, and the City Festival is every August.

I won’t forget to mention the Gallus Market in October (last weekend) and the Christmas Market, too.

It’s all right if shopping isn’t your thing, try the Waldschwimmbad outdoor pool instead. With its 40 meter long waterslide, it’s bound to be a lot of fun for everyone.

Still not enough? How about tennis, archery, and a BMX track to get your heart racing? If you get too pumped up, a trip to the Bienwald will relax it back to normal.

Perfect, no?

When traveling along the Upper Swabian Baroque Route in Baden-Württemberg you’ll come across the little known town of Kißlegg, once an old Roman settlement.

From the looks of the place it’s changed a bit from those days, but it still has an “Old World” German charm.

Wait, back up a second… the Upper Swabian Baroque Route? What’s that? It’s a German scenic route that highlights the absolute very best of Baroque architecture in a region known as Upper Swabia.

So? So that means you’ll have the very best of Upper Swabia’s culture and cuisine mixed with some of the most ornate embellishments put to castles and churches. Like the Neues Schloss, a Baroque castle and chapel built in 1721 and 1722, respectively.

Considered to be one of the exquisite in the region is the Parish Church of Sts. Gallus & Ulrich. Technically it’s now a Baroque masterpiece, but the original was of Gothic design.

Pre-Baroque is Chapel of the Holy Spirit (built 1575) with 15th century paintings that predate the structure you see today. And there’s also the Altes Schloss, a castle with four towers that took ten years to build (1560-1570). The best part is it’s still beautiful after four centuries.

Another great thing about Upper Swabia is its countryside. So, get yourself motivated to leave the churches and castles (oh stop, it’ll only be for a short time) and hike or bike around the peat bogs.

Don’t worry if you’re a bit tired, there are plenty of camp sites in the area.

Also a day spent at Kißlegg’s outdoor swimming pool is never wasted since you’re enjoying the fresh Upper Swabian air. There might not be any “spas” in town — but Kißlegg borders Bad Wurzach, so you’ll find one just a cat jump away.

I don’t think there’s any need to do that though. Kißlegg is pretty awesome in itself, so there isn’t any reason to leave; unless, of course, you’re ready to see more of the Upper Swabian Baroque Route. ;-)

The thirty-six (!) villages of Neuötting sometimes get a bit forgotten about. Why?

Because it’s right next door (OK, 2km) from the holy pilgrimage town of Altötting in Upper Bavaria. But, a few centuries ago it was abuzz since it was on an old salt and grain trade route.

Its great location on the Inn River made trading and commerce big business back then. Now, it’s a terrific place to take a stroll and watch the world go by.

Oops! I had a romantic moment for a second there. ;-)

Now after visiting Altötting, the churches in Neuötting might seem a bit anti-climatic, but, not if you keep an open mind. The most impressive of the churches is St. Nicholas, a late Gothic church (built 1410) whose tower rises 78 meters above the ground. Don’t look too long, you might hurt your neck.

No stretching the neck muscles are needed to see the early 16th century Gothic Church of St. Anne (built 1510) and the Hospital Church (built 1500) that has a wonderful Rococo alter. Don’t you just love all those architectural styles all in one place? Ah, maybe it’s just me.

More of Germany’s stunning churches can be seen along the Sieben-Kirchen-Radweg. Sorry, my non-German speaking readers… that’s the Seven Churches Cycling Route. It’s a doozy going 17 miles, so no wonder it’s a bike instead of walking route.

Don’t pedal off yet, though. The City Museum needs to be seen first. Open Tuesday through Sunday, this free museum (yes, FREE!) looks at 13th century Bavarian life.

Too bad the only thing missing is a castle. Oh, maybe not since there’s one in nearby Burghausen.

You know what Neuötting, while some people might forget about you because of your famous neighbor, I haven’t. And neither have the folks over at the Tourist Office (on Ludwigstraße 12). When you’re here go see them, they’ll help you forget about everyplace else. ;-)

I like contrasts. Old mixed with new, yin and yang, black and white films, that kind of thing.

So, when I got to the town of Naunhof in Saxony I got exactly what I liked. This is a place where you’ll find more than three-quarters of the town surrounded by forest right next to the A14 Autobahn.

See, contrast, nature right next to what I think is the world’s best motorway.

But, the speed demon Autobahn isn’t the only way folks get around. The Grüner Ring, a bicycle route around Leipzig (about 16km northwest) runs right around.

Hmm, more contrast… foot power vs. super charged horse power. :-)

Of course, if you’re cycling your way around you’ve got more time to stop and smell the roses; not having to look for a place to park. So, maybe once you’ve parked the car, leave it there for a while, since it’ll take some time to see the place.

A good first stop is the Baroque Schloss Ammelshain, then maybe on to the Clock Museum. We Germans are known for being punctual, so you know every clock will be set to precise time. ;-)

To let off a little steam before seeing Naunhof’s Office Supply Museum (hey wait, you’re on vacation… who wants to see office stuff?) try a day at the Waldbad. For just a few Euro you’ve got swimming, beach volleyball, and beach handball. You just got to do it from mid-May to the middle of September.

Other sporty fun is at the Kletterwald, a “climbing forest” where you can swing from the trees over 11 courses. Of course it’s safe. You’ll be wearing a helmet and harness.

A different kind of “forest” experience could be had camping or just chilling out lakeside.

For the cultural side of Naunhof look no further than the Cabaret and Classical music concerts, the Castle Run in July, the Children’s Festival in July, the Village Festival (also in July), and the Summer Flea Market (July).

Yet again, another contrast… Naunhof is both cultural and sporty. I like it. I like it a lot.