In Höchberg, Follow The Fake River To See Everything

March 13th, 2011

Many of you might never have heard about Höchberg, a town just shy of good 9,000 residents in Lower Franconia, until now. It’s not really hard to find, it’s the town right next door to the large(r) city of Würzburg; and along the Romantic Road.

So, never head of it? What’s the big deal anyway?

Well, the big deal is plenty if you like little historic Franconian towns. It seems that just about everything to see & do in Höchberg is destined to get you outside. Might be why they built an artificial river, huh?

The “fake” river isn’t the only outdoorsy attraction. How about the fact that there are six small lakes, mountain biking trails, a “wine trail,” and other hiking paths?

One hiking trail leads to Kloster Oberzell, built in 1128. Sadly, when the monastery was dissolved in 1803 quite a few of its treasures were lost — but don’t let that stop you from seeing it. ;-)

After the monastery, there’s the Festung Marienberg (or, Marienberg Fortress in English) to see. The oldest part of the fortress is the Church of Our Lady which dates to around 704 A.D. However, the site of the Festung Marienberg was used as a site of Celtic Pagan worship about 1000 B.C.

Today, the Marienberg Fortress houses the Mainfränkische Museum Würzburg, which was housed here after the fortress was rebuilt after an aerial bomb attack in March 1945.

Speaking of World War II, Höchberg has a commemorative plaque and memorial stone to the town’s Jewish community at the Jewish Cemetery and the Protestant Church (which used to be Höchberg’s synagogue). And over at Sonnemannstraße 15 is the Präparandenschule, a museum of sorts — with more than 350 years of the Jewish community’s history.

For all your sightseeing efforts, you’ve earned yourself some relaxing fun. How? Over at the Mainlandbad (both an indoor and outdoor pool with a sauna) and a couple rounds of miniature golf, of course. If you’re the competitive type, there’s no way better to end your stay than bragging you won! ;-)

Hirschberg an der Bergstraße — An Architectural Layer Cake

March 13th, 2011

In northern Baden-Württemberg almost at the Hessian border is a tiny town with a super long name, Hirschberg an der Bergstraße. The only thing longer than its name is its history.

Being along the scenic Bergstrasse route, Hirschberg’s history spans back all the way to the Romans when the area was under Roman rule. Remnants of this time can be seen at the Villa Rustica (the name just oozes Roman, doesn’t it?). Later on came the Celts, but sadly not much remains of that time.

You have to jump ahead quite a few centuries to meet up with another important time period of Hirschberg’s history when the Hirschburg was built in the 12th century. The castle, now in ruins, was here for more than 400 years before it was destroyed.

In the 14th century the Protestant Church (in the village of Leutershausen) was built; and a century later came the United Evangelical Church. Which was right around the time Leutershauen’s beautiful Old Town Hall was built, too.

Wow, it’s like an architectural layer cake around here, isn’t it?

The 18th century saw the building of the Schloss der Grafen von Wiser (what is it with long names around here?), or just simply the Wiser Castle. This is more of an Italian style castle and its farm buildings, orangery, and chapel still stand. Look around the castle park to see sculptures depicting everything from Greek gods to the four seasons.

In the 1860’s the Jewish residents of Hirschberg built a synagogue, which wasn’t destroyed in 1938 because by then the house of worship was used as a community meeting center. Today, the former synagogue is now a culture and community center.

Speaking of culture, you’ll love to be here for the Gassenkerwe festival in Großsachsen in August, the Storchenkerwe in Leutershausen in September, or the Straßenfest (Street Party) in July.

However, Hirschberg’s top event is the Odenwald Bike Marathon in September. I’m not sure how they map out the race, but I’d like to think they’re using the old stone deer antler landmarks.

You don’t have to join the marathon to see them, though, any time you’re here in Hirschberg an der Bergstraße is just fine. Besides, any German town this old isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. ;-)

Bisingen — Proud Estate Of The Hohenzollern Castle

March 11th, 2011

Just thinking about the Swabian Alb gives me a bit of a thrill. So, imagine my excitement about the town of Bisingen (only 6km southwest of Hechingen) which sits right at the foothills of the Alb in Baden-Württemberg.

Could it be the natural scenic beauty of the area that gives me goosebumps? Maybe its the massive Hohenzollern Castle and some other castle ruins? Could it be the draw of the border of the not so distant Black Forest?

I know, maybe it’s not one thing. I’m thinking that it’s a combination of it all.

Another reason many people come to Bisingen is the Hohenzollernstraße, a route that follows the royal House of Hohenzollern. One of the most beautiful of their castles is right here, the Hohenzollern Castle.

Even if you’re not into “royal” culture, if you miss out seeing this castle you’re gonna regret it. More than 300,000 visitors come see the Burg Hohenzollern, and they’ll tell you this castle is something you’ve never ever seen yet.

Hohenzollern Castle not only holds the crown of Wilhelm II, but it also has the effects of (the infamous) Frederick the Great and a letter to Baron von Steuben from George Washington thanking him for his help during the American Revolution.

I’m thinking a note might not be quite a big enough thank you gift for helping him win a country — I hope he sent along a bottle of wine at least to go with it. ;-)

The Burgruine Ror might seem a lot less dramatic. But, it’s beautiful in its own way. This castle’s been long gone for much longer than it stood (built 12th century & destroyed 1311) so go ahead, use your imagination to picture it your way.

Another stop on your itinerary may be the Exhibition of the Bisingen Concentration Camp, once housing over 15,000 prisoners during the days of World War II.

While you’re sitting up there on Burg Hohenzollern you can think about the amazing town of Bisingen. Hopefully, you’ll get goosebumps when you think about other Swabian Alb towns, too.

Breckerfeld Is Happily Shooting Around The Sauerland

March 11th, 2011

Sure, Breckerfeld was an important town along some medieval trade routes, but centuries before the Middle Ages the Romans came to town.

How do I know? Well, it’s not because there are any Roman fortresses or anything. It’s because in 1989 a second century (AD) Roman statue of Mars was found.

I’m sorry to report that’s the only thing of the Romans that remains in Breckerfeld. However, buildings from the medieval period (and later) have withstood the test of time here.

Breckerfeld has a historical medieval City Center, including remainders of its medieval defense wall called Stadtmauer. There’s also the James Lutheran Church, a Gothic style church that’s been the center of religious life since it was built in 1390.

Don’t confuse the Lutheran James Church with the St. James Catholic Church. Well, that probably won’t happen since the Catholic church wasn’t built until 1727 (in a Baroque style).

Now, wandering around old churches isn’t the only thing visitors and locals can do in Breckerfeld. This is a winter sports haven with skiing available within a 10km distance. And when the weather’s warmer, there’s always hiking and cycling through the forest to do.

That’s also when it’s a good idea to see the Mühlenhof Breckerfeld which is part farmhouse (with a cute wind mill) and part coffee shop. Nothing like a good cup ‘o Joe to drink while you watch the world go by, right? :-)

Breckerfeld might like its coffee, but it likes its festivals, too. The end of April (May 1st) brings out the May Pole where everyone dances in the streets and enjoys great food, great beer (or wine), and great company. Count me in for next year’s event!

There’s also the Stag Shooting Festival — and I’m not talking about people coming without dates to the festival. ;-)

Sorry, if you’re not the hunting type, then wait until the second Advent weekend and go shopping at the Christmas Market (held outside the church of St. James). Yeah, that would be the Catholic St. James church, just in case you’re wondering.

And I promise I won’t shoot you if you show up by yourself. ;-)

Burgau — Mozart Balls And The Best Of St. Anthony

March 11th, 2011

When you make the decision to think outside the proverbial box and come off the beaten path, you’re often treated to sights, smells, and experiences you would otherwise miss.

Oh sure, Bavaria has Munich, but if you decide to come explore the Swabian region you’re bound to find places like Burgau — places that are pretty gosh darn fantastic.

Yes, Burgau has a small stain of darkness on its history. Back during the last days of the 2nd World War in 1945, many prisoners of the Dachau, Bergen-Belsen, and Ravensbrück concentration camps were brought to a camp that was built here. Many Jewish prisoners died and were buried at the nearby historical Jewish cemetery in Ichenhausen.

The Jewish cemetery has been used for burials since the mid-16th century, and is believed to have more than 7,000 people buried in it. There’s also a very rare Taharahaus, a building used for ritual washing, located within the cemetery.

Some of the other places to see in Burgau are the Loreto Chapel (built 1692) and the Baroque looking St. Martin Church that was originally built in 1481.

The oldest house in Burgau dates back to the mid-17th century Thirty Years’ War and the Burg Burgau (Castle Burgau) is now a museum.

I don’t want to leave out the 17th century Blockhausturm (one of the original towers), the St. Leonard Church (b. 1667), the Parish Church (b. 1788), and the Capuchin Monastery.

As great as all these places are, though, it’s the St. Anthony Chapel that steals my heart. This is just a tiny chapel on the side of the road, renovated in 1994. It’s not that the chapel is filled with priceless works of art or anything, it’s just that this simple building is the reason for the St. Anthony Festival (held on/around St. Anthony’s Feast Day of June 13).

Thousands of people flock to the streets for a day of merry making, (beer) drinking (Hello, Bavaria!), and eating. One special treat made around here is known as Mozart Balls. No, it’s not anything crazy… it’s just candy.

One of the other big festivals around Burgau is Carnival. This really is a day of bright colors and partying in the last dark days of winter, and a last chance for some fun before the sacrificing days of Lent begin.

There’s just one last place you need to see before you leave… the St. Mary’s Fountain. Known as the Our Lady of Victory, this gorgeous piece of artwork was built out of sandstone in 1731.

Then go grab some more of Mozart Balls for the road!

Bad Liebenzell — A Posh Black Forest Spa Town For Everyone!

March 11th, 2011

In Germany, “Bad” names are, well, actually very good things. Like in the case of Bad Liebenzell, it’s a spa town out of the fairy tale book with all the good stuff one would expect from a genuine Black Forest town.

Back when the area was simply called Liebenzell, the town was your typical medieval hamlet — castle included. Burg Liebenzell has stood guard over the town since the 12th century. Yes, that’s more than 800 years. They sure don’t build stuff like that anymore, or do they?

There’s another castle in the region of Bad Liebenzell, though not anywhere as on a grand scale as Burg Liebenzell. Another medieval site in is the St. Blasius Protestant Church, a Gothic structure built around the time Columbus was exploring the New World (um, that would be the 1490’s).

On Palm Sunday, it is tradition here for someone to ride a donkey procession all the way to the church.

Bad Liebenzell was also the hometown of Christoph Blumhardt, a 19th century theologian who performed “faith healings.” You can learn more about him at the Blumhardt Museum.

The last sight on the “must do” list is the Missionshaus, a timber framed house built in a cross shape; it also has a small chapel.

Oh, I almost left out the Planetenweg or Planet Trail at the City Park. Here you can enjoy lush green grass, tall trees, and think about the larger universe.

Now, it’s time to rent a bicycle (about 19 Euro for the day) and set out about the town. The Pharmacy Garden offers walking paths and lessons about medicinal herbs.

Another hiking trail is the Ostweg. But, that’s not only the “sport” here in Bad Liebenzell. There’s also Nordic Walking, fishing, golfing (the “real” links kind), miniature golf, tennis, squash, and ice skating.

Bad Liebenzell’s outdoor swimming pool is pretty awesome, too. It’s got a 65 meter slide, waterfall showers, and a children’s pool for the little ones.

So it seems that Bad Liebenzell is perfect for the young, old, history lovers, scientists, and religious folk. Don’t you just love that?

Bad König — Pamper Yourself, Like A King! :-)

March 10th, 2011

In the middle of the Odenwald is the pretty nifty spa town of Bad König. Yes, you may very well feel like a King knowing that König stands for King and Bad is a proud title for German spa towns.

And again, Bad König has a wonderful spa to visit, but it does have more to see than just that.

Yet still, the very best of Bad König really is the new Odenwald Therme (opened in 2000). Here’s your chance to float along the lazy river, spritz yourself in the steambath, relax in the Salt Cave (perfect for allergy and skin ailment sufferers), or try an herbal or infusion sauna. You could also take in a yoga class OR come on Thursday evenings for a night swim with live music.

This is SO my idea of a good time. Excuse me while I go pamper myself for a few…

OK, I’m back, refreshed, now I’m ready to do some dancing with live music at the Schlossplatz. Care to join me? I don’t want to hear you got two left feet… come enjoy the festivities anyway or just look around the lovely castle.

This isn’t the only merry making in town. You’re welcome to enjoy Advent Concerts (end of Nov-early Dec), the Nikolaus Market (ohhh, Christmas shopping), a New Years Ball, Carnival (usually Feb.), the Autumn Fair (early Oct), and the Kurpark Run in April.

Oh, great, now I’m tired again. Time to go back to the spa — be back soon. ;-)

Now I think it’s time to take one of Bad König’s guided tours about town. The Culinary Tour costs less than 30 Euro and is a great way to try some traditional German cuisine. No, I promise it’s not all bratwurst and beer. Not that that’s a bad thing, but…

After the tour and some Nordic Walking through the Hessian countryside it’s time for another few hours at the spa. I’ll save you the seat next to me in the jacuzzi — see ya there! ;-)

Ehringshausen Survives Without Castles And Museums

March 10th, 2011

In the Dill Valley between Herborn and Wetzlar along the Autobahn A45 is Ehringshausen.

Unfortunately, there isn’t a whole lot of sightseeing to do here. There are no castles, no museums, no historical churches. So, why even bother?

Because you’d be missing out on some of the very best walking and cycling trails imaginable if you didn’t.

The area around Ehringshausen is mostly forested. It won’t be hard to pretend you’re walking through some mythical, magical forest — maybe pretending your Hansel & Gretel (how German can you get?). But, for something a bit more structured, Ehringshausen has specific walking paths.

The shortest is 21km taking about 6 hours going through Ehringshausen and its villages of Daubhausen, Griefenthal, and Dillheim.

The longest of the guided paths is 35km, taking about 8-10 hours to finish. Not the best trail to take if you’re the couch potato type — this is for the seriously fit folks.

I confess, that’s way too long of a hike for me… I would opt to take the Totenweg. Now, that translates to Death Way (which I would feel like I would be dying after all this hiking) but, you can do it! The Totenweg follows the footsteps of the 17th century Hugenots through Daubhausen, and there are plenty of benches (and other places to sit) when you get tired.

I don’t know about you, but all that hiking (and thinking of it) sure makes me hungry. Good thing there are lots of Grill Huts throughout the forest, so remember to pack some hotdogs and beer.

The forest is not your thing? How about the Dill Park instead? This tiny park is often frequented by residents of the nearby retirement village and children running around after a hard day at school. Life doesn’t get any more simple or better than this.

And because mining was once an important industry to the area, the nearby mine is a frequently visited site. Take the mine’s “train” down, and it’s one less place you need to walk — especially after walking around everywhere else.

Wow, for not having any castles or museums, I managed to have an awesome time. I didn’t even miss ’em, and you won’t either.

In Elze, No One Is Ever Bored

March 10th, 2011

How many times have we sat around the kitchen table looking for something to do right in our own backyards? None? Oh, it’s only me, right?

Well, however many of us actually do that — I don’t think the people in Elze ever get to ask themselves that question, because there always seems to be something going on there.

I mean, for real, even just walking down the streets in Elze is a delight. You’ll think so too when you get a glimpse of Marienburg Castle high up on the hillside.

Schloss Marienburg was once the summer residence of King George V of Hanover and his wife Marie. This was just their summer house, and it rivals any Hohenzollern castle in Germany. Take a guided palace tour and look for yourself if you don’t believe me. ;-)

Marienburg isn’t the only castle that can be seen around here. Poppenburg Castle is another one — this one built just shy of a thousand years ago.

Elze’s Old Town might not have anything that old, but it does have many framework houses from the 16th and 17th centuries. They make great photos if anything!

In the former mill there’s Elze’s Heritage Museum. It’s only open every Tuesday from 10am-noon and Sundays from 3pm-5pm. However, if you call ahead you could get yourself a private appointment.

If you’re the art loving type, the churches in Elze’s villages are the best. In Sorsum there’s a 12th century chapel, but it’s the 14th century former monastery church in Wittenburg everyone comes to see. Today, it’s part church and part event hall.

During the summer, everyone comes to the town’s outdoor swimming pool that also has a water slide, a beach volleyball court, basketball court, table tennis, and a sandbox.

Here at the pool is where Elze holds its “End of Summer Holidays” shindig. Come for a night swim with live music playing — it is a good time to be had by everyone.

And I don’t think you’ll hear “I’m bored” by anyone! ;-)

Everswinkel — The Friendly Corner In The Münsterland

March 10th, 2011

I don’t know how Germany keeps doing it over and over again. Everytime I think I’ve seen it all, I’m forced to swallow my words because I find something new. And I don’t mean just in the big cities where you could spend years there and still not see everything. I’m talking about cute little towns like Everswinkel.

This lovely town in the Münsterland not only sits along the 100-Schlösser-Route or 100 Castles Bicycle Route, but also has historical sites and one pretty fun swimming complex. Oh, that doesn’t even include the many festivals throughout the year, the museums, and little chapels and religious grottos.

See? It’s not just some small rinky-dink town that if you blink you find that you passed through it. ;-)

As with most towns in Germany life revolves around the church and church functions. Everswinkel has a few churches, which means that you have quite a few to see and even more functions to attend.

For instance, the St. Magnus and St. Agatha churches are just about the same age. St. Agatha was built in 1203 and St. Magnus’ Tower dates to the same century. Both hold Parish Feasts every three years on the third Sunday in September. But, before you go thinking they’re celebrated at the same time — they’re not! St. Magnus got to celebrate theirs in September 2010 and St. Agatha the year before.

What remains is to just come for the annual Vitus Festival (held on the weekend after June 15th) on the off years.

Even if you can’t make it for the Parish Feasts, you’ll be far from bored. There’s the Warrior Memorial Chapel, the Historic Square, the Shrine & Cross Paths, the Lourdes Grotto, the Heritage House (a former weaver’s cottage from 1781 at Kirchplatz 13), and the Mitmach Museum (a rural history museum) to see.

Then there’s the camping, golfing, tennis, and horseback riding, too. Add in a day to the island themed Vitus Bad, with both an indoor & outdoor pool, beach volleyball, basketball court, massage services, and a bistro.

Now I guess I’ll have plenty of time to eat my words while I’m in Everwinkel, huh? ;-)

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