Pyrbaum — Gateway To The Upper Palatinate

January 10th, 2015

The Bavarian town of Pyrbaum touts itself as the “Gateway to the Upper Palatinate;” whereas I prefer to wonder why anyone would want to venture any further than right here.

From the git-go, Pyrbaum offers a chance to see many charming village churches and chapels throughout its fourteen hamlets, in addition to experiencing some wonderful festivals all year long.

Not half bad, right? ;-)

The Pyrbaum you see today is a far cry from its humble Celtic beginnings, eventually becoming a contestant in Germany’s “Our Village is Beautiful” contest. Even though it didn’t win, Pyrbaum is a winner in my eyes — and I think it’ll in yours, too.

One of your first stops here should be the Pfarrkirche St. Georg, a Parish Church that’s been tending to the spiritual needs of the place since the early 16th century. That’s about the same time the Cemetery Chapel was built, but the Chapel of St. Mary didn’t come along until a few centuries later.

None of Pyrbaum’s churches, however, are as old as the Church of the Assumption. Although it is no longer a Cistercian Abbey Church, it still stands as a medieval church from 1242.

Another one of the town’s religious sites to see is the rectory of a former Capuchin Monastery; and (maybe) not technically religious a site, though it is a guesthouse at what was once a convent back around 1493.

Oh wait… do the medieval stone crosses found alongside the road qualify as religious? You can debate that as you look for them all over the place, OK?

You might have to pause your debate to attend one of Pyrbaum’s festivals or markets. A Bavarian Christmas Market is always charming, and luckily you’ve got one here.

As far as festivals go, Pyrbaum hosts a Brunnenfest (Fountain Festival); a Kirchweih (a Church Festival of sorts); a Starkbierfest (festivals are almost always better with good beer); a Backofenfest (Stove Festival; July); a Pfarrfest (May); and the 2-day Bürgerfest in May.

From the looks of it, Pyrbaum might not have won the Our Village is Beautiful contest, but it sure is a winner no matter what.

Schönenberg-Kübelberg — Festivals Galore

January 10th, 2015

Ok, people of Schönenberg-Kübelberg, I have a question for you. How do you manage to get anything done around here?

Honestly, I’m not being sarcastic — I just wanna know how you do it, because it seems like every other day you’ve got a festival going on here.

Hey, at least you (my precious site visitor) know you’ll have a good time if you’re here.

Before we get all side-tracked on the festival front, how about a little history and geography? You’ll find Schönenberg-Kübelberg, which is a Collective Municipality of the same name, right near the border of the Saarland.

The town is also quite old, many archaeological artifacts from the Bronze Age have been all over the area; some great enough to be on display in large museums.

Oops, I almost forgot to mention the very lovely Baroque St. Valentine Church, built way back in 1702. If you want an even older church, then head over the village of Ohmbach (one of the six other hamlets of the municipality) — theirs is a 12th century Romanesque one.

All right, now on to all the fun. Where to start? Since this is technically about Schönenberg-Kübelberg, let’s start there. One of its biggest festivals is the Seefest, or Lake Festival, at the Ohmbachsee. In addition to all the food, you’ve got Dragon Boat Races where you can cheer on your favorites. And the recreational lake itself invites to swim, boat, and surf all year long.

The Ostermarkt (Easter Market) is one of the most popular events — and the fact that it’s been held for more than 269 years, I’d say they’ve got it down pat.

Want more? Come the first weekend of October, you can party for Oktoberfest; there’s a Folk Festival (also known as the Johannisfest) in June; a Kerwe in August; and a Christmas Market on the third weekend of December.

Doesn’t seem like a lot, right? Ha, I ain’t done yet, because I haven’t added in what’s going on over in the other towns. Altenkirchen is the place for its own Christmas Market on the first weekend of Advent; and a Village Festival in July, where the potato waffles are quite famous.

What else? The town of Brücken has its St. Lawrence Church Kirmes (and a Diamond Cutting Museum in town, too). And Frohnhofen has the Jakobskerwe every July (the last weekend), which isn’t to be confused with its Kirmes in October. The village of Gries also has its own Kerwe — this one being on the last weekend of August.

Ahh, at least you can get some peace & quiet in Ohmbach — it’s got hiking trails, and a lookout point to enjoy the scenery.

Now do you see why I ask how any work can get done around here? There seems to be more festivals than people. ;-)

Allendorf (Eder) — Five Beautiful Reasons

January 9th, 2015

Technically (don’t you just love a start like that), there are five villages that make up the town of Allendorf (Eder), each with their own distinct flair and identity.

Yeah, that’s a good way to put it. I’m not taking anything away from any one of Allendorf’s hamlets, they’re each worth seeing in their own right.

Don’t mix it up with “the other” Allendorf (Lumda), though, which lies 60 km south of this one.

With that cleared up, back to Allendorf on the Eder River.

Where was I? Oh yeah, its five hamlets…

Take Battenfeld, for instance, it was once home to a thriving Jewish community, and there’s an old Jewish cemetery here in town. Battenfeld is also where throngs of residents and visitors alike converge on the first weekend of October for the annual Kram- und Viehmarkt, which kinda translates to Stuff & Cattle Market.

Don’t laugh, it’s jolly good fun, ya know.

You have to wait five years if you want to join in on the Grenzgangfest — the one at the end of May 2013 was a huge hit with everyone.

But, at least Allendorf’s got two Christmas Markets, so if you can’t make it to the one in Battenfeld on the first weekend of Advent, you can try for the one in Allendorf proper a week later.

Rennertehausen is great for a good time, it hosts the annual Heimatfest and Easter Market. And the village of Haine was a 1980s entry into the Unser Dorf soll schöner werden (Our Village Is Beautiful) competition, which somehow became the Our Village Has A Future after the late 1990s.

Hmm, I wonder why they didn’t bestow that honor on the village of Osterfeld, it’s totally surrounded by forest — which makes it beautiful to me. Maybe they should have made me a judge. ;-)

No time to think about that, too many churches to see…

The Alte Kirche (Old Church) is one of the more popular ones to visit, but the Romanesque basilica of Battenfeld’s Evangelical Church gives the Old Church’s Gothic design a run for its money.

And just when you think you’ve see it all, you’ve got more to do. The 9.2 km long Linspher Radweg is really an exciting Cycle Path, taking you over many bridges, through tunnels, and along riverbanks. Note that the tunnels are closed during winter, while they provide a detour through town.

Oh well, one more reason to come back again — and maybe then someone will have made me a judge so I can officially declare all of Allendorf (Eder) a “Beautiful Village.”

Oh wait… I just did. ;-)

Zeil am Main — Wine, Witches, Wine

January 9th, 2015

There was no definitive moment that I fell head-over-heels in love with the Lower Franconian town of Zeil am Main. It could have been love at first sight of its perfectly manicured vineyards. Or, it could have been the view of a castle ruin in the fading sunlight.

At this point, there’s no questioning why I love Zeil so much — it’s a matter of telling you how utterly fantastic this Franconian town is.

It wasn’t always, mind you. Over the course of two centuries Zeil was in the midst of some serious witch hunts — where some 400 people were burned at the stake.

Yikes, rough crowd. Today you can learn all about this (calling it a dark stain on its history is an understatement) at the Hexenturm (Witches Tower).

No worries of being branded a witch around here these days, you’re free to enjoy all that Zeil has to offer.

One of these things are the ruins of Burg Schmachtenberg. The grey colored stones of the present ruin are from the mid-1400s, but there was an even older castle here originally. These days the castle has been in ruins much longer than the present castle stood; and it doesn’t take much of an imagination to envision how formidable the place was in its heyday.

For anyone seeking the chance to see what Old World Germany must’ve looked like, this is it. Right on the Town Square you’ll find a smattering of half-timbered houses, including the one built by Jörg Hoffmann (a local carpenter) back in 1689.

The Rathaus (Town Hall) is even older, built around 1540.

The absolute other must-see here in Zeil is the Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) of St. Michael, with its Anna Chapel. Who couldn’t love a Baroque church that’s full of breathtaking art? Look closely and you’ll find frescoes from the 14th century — because the church is much older than what you see.

With all this marked off your To-do list, it’s time to drink. I already told you there were vineyards, so that means there’s plenty of wine to go around. Every August there’s the Wine Festival (it’s official German name is the Altstadt Weinfest), bringing thousands of people to town all wanting to try some delicious reds.

Even with no festival going on Zeil keeps with its wine theme because it’s got a Wein-Wander-Weg, or Wine Hiking Trail. It’s actually a number of hiking trails ranging from 5 to 25 km in length (and a couple of other smaller wine festivals, too), showcasing the town’s more than 1000 years of viticulture.

It’s all right if you can’t make the previously mentioned Wine Festival, Zeil has other cultural events throughout the year. Like what? How about a couple of Kirchweih celebrations (September & October), the Jakobimarkt (July), a Community Festival (June), a Village Festival (July), an Autumn Festival (October), an Oktoberfest (in September, of course), and the obligatory Christmas Market.

The moment escapes me of when I felt love for Zeil, but what I do know is that I never want to leave — and neither will you.

So, c’mon… let’s go get another glass of wine — the place is full of it. ;-)

Helsa — Meeting Brothers Grimm At The Old Mill

January 7th, 2015

After a week of being indoors, it’s nice to spend some time in the bright sunshine.

For me, Helsa is a right town to fit the bill, as it’s known for its many bike paths through the Hessian countryside.

That’s not to say you won’t find old churches and stuff, far be it from me to suggest such a thing — but, here in Helsa, the outside wins hands-down.

It doesn’t matter the season, either. Winter, or not, everyone can find something they like to do. When the weather’s cold and frosty, skiing comes to mind on any number of ski trails. Don’t worry, you don’t have to hike the mountains to ski down them — the lifts will bring you up. Ooh, and sledding down a snowy hill is also good old-fashioned fun, right?

In the warmer months, mountain biking and cycling and hiking are great past times in the Kaufunger Wald. And with quite the number of grilling areas, a picnic is just what you need to keep up your strength to keep going and going.

One great bike trail is the Lossetalradweg, going on for some 33 km. While one of the more famous ones is the Grimmsteig, a scenic route whose theme is about the Brüder Grimm.

That’s right, sound it out — the Brothers Grimm. See, you can speak German now. ;-)

Of course, if you choose to go inside, you might want to make it to the lovely Baroque Church (built 1786) in the village of Wickenrode, just one of Helsa’s four hamlets. You’ll find a blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture at the Protestant church in Eschenstruth (along with an old munitions factory and Radio & Cinema Museum), and a Huguenot Church in St. Ottilien.

This last hamlet started off with just about 50 people back in the 18th century, now it has more than quadrupled its size — having just over 300 people. Good things come in small packages, right?

Helsa’s landmark, however, is its old St. Nicholas Church that still has part of its old defensive wall. Funny, I’d have thought the Old Mill would have been its landmark — it’s still producing power after all these years.

The numerous half-timbered houses throughout town, especially along Königstraße, could make for a landmark too.

To me it doesn’t matter if it’s bright sunshine, or a gray bleak day — Helsa’s great for being outside. Come to think of it, it’s great for just about anything you can think of.

Münzenberg — Dark History In The Wetterau

January 7th, 2015

The English translation for the Hessian town of Münzenberg is Coins Mountain. Ha, sounds funny, right?

However, coins don’t come to mind when thinking about this charming town in the Wetterau region. Romans, wine, and rocks come to mind about Münzenberg — not coins.

I guess some things do get lost in translation. ;-)

Münzenberg does have more than those three things, including a whole bunch of hiking and bike trails and paths. If you like “dark” history, you might want to hike on over to Münzenberg’s Gallows, a spot where they used to hang you. Yikes, that’s harsh.

Well, no one ever said life in the Middle Ages was easy. What you could say about medieval life is the period gave us some excellent castles — like Burg Münzenberg. It might be a ruin now, but it’s a venue for many theater performances.

Close to the castle is the Geological Garden, a rock garden of sorts — so make sure you come on by when visiting the castle, OK?

I also said Romans came to mind in Münzenberg; and the reason being, there’s an old Roman Road that you’ll find here, and you’re close to the Limeskastell Alteburg — a Roman structure that’s some 1900 years old.

What else did I say about Münzenberg? Right, wine. The town hosts an annual Wine Festival in June, so that’s a great time to be here. Then again, if you’re here for the Martinimarkt (November), Oktoberfest (September), Village Festival (June), two Summer Festivals (July and August), or the Christmas Bazaar and Christmas Market (both in December) — you’ll still manage to have a good time.

As you’re doing all that, you’ll find many half-timbered houses giving the town of Münzenberg a true Old World feel. Stop by the St. Nicholas Chapel (built 1284), or the village church in the hamlet of Trais (one of its four districts) from the 14th century to see some of its other old buildings — or make a game of trying to find pieces of its original defense wall.

Maybe a visit to the Local History Museum can help out with that, too.

Now do you see why “coins mountains” doesn’t quite fit the real Münzenberg? No matter, so long as you’re here. ;-)

Kirchentellinsfurt — Tiny Is Terrific In The Swabian Alb

January 7th, 2015

We seem to live in a society that preaches “bigger is better.” Super-sized drinks, colossal portions, and big cities are the way to go.

I’m here to tell you, wonderful things do come in tiny packages.

The Swabian town of Kirchentellinsfurt, smack dab in the Swabian Alb, is only 11 square kilometers — but it packs a wallop despite being pint-sized.

Besides, we all know it’s all about location, location, location. Kirchentellinsfurt is lucky enough to be just seven kilometers from terrific Tübingen, and seven kilometers from Reutlingen — so the place is easily reached from these much bigger towns.

You know what’s a good idea? Taking a bike ride, or just plain hiking, on over. It is the Swabian Alb and Neckar Valley, after all, so you’ll just love the scenery.

Kirchentellinsfurt is also lucky enough to boast its own castle. Found at Schloßhof 9, the Castle Museum has all sorts of exhibits on long-gone items — like the typewriter. Yeah, who’s old enough to remember one of those? Anyway, the castle itself is quite old — its origins go back to around 1560, although I’m pretty sure it wasn’t open to the public back then to get married as it is now.

Another one of the town’s castles is the Einsiedel Castle, now a religious youth hostel, offering hiking services to those in need from May to October. And speaking of hiking, the surrounding Schönbuch Nature Park is great for seeing rare plants and animals.

For me, the best part of Kirchentellinsfurt is all the festivals. June is a great month, as that’s the time for the Community Festival. The Summer Festival and Fisherman’s Festival are both held every July; and there are numerous Autumn Festivals held in the area throughout the month of October.

December’s got to be my favorite time in Kirchentellinsfurt, as that’s when the Christmas Market is held, as well as the Festival of Lights at the Neckar.

Now do you see why I say Kirchentellinsfurt doesn’t have to be big to be great? Tiny is different. Tiny is terrific.

Kipfenberg — Where Romans Meet Up With Bavarians

January 7th, 2015

Don’t you love it when you learn something new?

Well, if you come to the Upper Bavarian town of Kipfenberg, you’ll learn a lot of new things. Just don’t go expecting Kipfenberg to open all her secrets at one time, though; it takes patience to find out everything she has to offer.

One place that you’ll see right away is Burg Kipfenberg, an 800 year old castle. No one will let us in because it’s privately owned, but an outbuilding houses the Römer und Bajuwaren Museum. In English, that’s essentially a Roman and Old Bavarian Museum. It’s only proper because the Romans were just swarming all over the area two thousand years ago.

Kipfenberg is along the Via Raetia, a biking trail that’s all about the old Roman Route, which follows the German Limes Road. Hence parts of the town are a UNESCO area. Over by the St. John the Baptist Church in the village of Böhming is what used to be a Roman fort, too.

In honor of the town’s Roman beginnings, Kipfenberg hosts a Limesfest (in conjunction with its Folk Festival in August) that last for four days. One of the biggest honors is being voted Limes Queen.

Hey, I wanna be royalty — then maybe they’ll let me in the castle. Ahh, no time for whining — there’s more to see. ;-)

Where was I? Yes, telling you about how Kipfenberg is also the geographical center of Bavaria — easy to find it then. They even have a stone to mark the very spot. Cool.

Other festivals in Kipfenberg are just as fun, ya know. The Maibaum celebrations are always a treat, as are both the Florianfest and Summer Festival. Plus, the Wine Festival is utterly fantastic, as well.

Still, this is Bavaria, so every minute you spend outdoors is good indeed. Spend the time visiting the Burgruine Arnsberg, or checking out the Arndt Cave if you’re adventurous.

You could always try Nordic Walking or mountain biking. And art & architecture lovers will get a kick out of the Baroque altars at the St. Andrew Church, or visiting the St. Sebastian Church.

To the folks over at the Tourist Office, if I missed something the error is totally mine — you know so much more than I do. I told ya it would take time to get to know Kipfenberg; but it was nice to make your acquaintance, and hope to see you again.

Lohra — Epic Journey Through 5000 Years

January 7th, 2015

For me, sometimes learning about who lived in a spot is just as good (if not better in some cases) as what there is to see or do in a town. And while St. Elisabeth of Thuringia didn’t actually live here, she came through on her way to the Kloster Altenberg way back in the 1200s.

Her epic journey made a mark in Lohra; and you, too, can follow in her footsteps on the Elisabethpfad, as you take your own steps through its ten districts.

For those of you who don’t know her, she used to live in the Wartburg Castle, dedicating her life to the sick and poor after being widowed at the tender age of 20 — and dying just four years later.

I guess it makes visiting the many village churches here in Lohra extra special, I’d say. One of Lohra’s oldest churches predates Elisabeth’s trek by centuries. Originally built in the 9th century, the “Horseshoe” Church keeps its Romanesque core despite having to be rebuilt in the 1720s.

Another Romanesque church awaits your visit in the hamlet of Kichvers; as well as offering a Campingplatz (Campground) and outdoor pool. The villages of Rodenhausen, Rollshausen, and Weipoltshausen are a few other villages with some 16th century churches to see.

It wouldn’t be right not to come see the blue half-timbered church in the village of Seelbach; a hamlet that has quite a few other half-timbered houses throughout.

Before you start mulling over how old these sites are, imagine what you’ll think when I tell you there was a prehistoric grave found here from about 3000 B.C. (known as the Steinkammergrab von Lohr). Yup, the final resting place of some 20 men, women, and children is like 5,000 years old — and only discovered in the mid-20th century.

If you visit the Hessian State Museum you’ll find some of the grave’s artifacts on display. If you want a museum without going that far, I’d suggest the Natural History Museum in the village of Damm.

Between its famous visitor, its exceptional sightseeing, and its lovely countryside — Lohra is memorable town where you can make your own epic journey.

Lingenfeld — Bedroom Community With A Fun Acquisition

January 7th, 2015

For some, the town of Lingenfeld in the Palatinate, is nothing more than a bedroom community, where they can commute easily to much larger cities, like Germersheim, or Speyer (only 10 km away).

For others, Lingenfeld is a wonderful town and collective municipality to explore the Upper Rhine Valley — and where they grow grapes to make some delicious German wine.

Both would be right. But, if you only look at those two things, you’re missing out on a whole bunch more.

OK, I’ll be honest… there aren’t hundreds of castles dotting the landscape of this 15 square kilometer town — nor, are there dozens of medieval churches. That didn’t stop me from appreciating what was here, though.

You’ll be more than content to walk along the Hauptstraße in the village of Schwengenheim; it’s just framed ever so romantically with picturesque half-timbered houses. Of course, you’ll find an Evangelical Baroque church in the village, as well.

It’s another Baroque church that’ll greet you in the village of Freisbach, which started out as a late Gothic one — so you know it’s much older than its 1780 renovation.

The 18th century must have been very good to Lingenfeld, because you’ll find yet another village church from the time period in Westheim. Along the Kirchstraße, more half-timbered houses await — along with a Local History Museum.

Sounds good so far, right? Wait, it gets better. What’s totally fun here is the Draisinenbahn, which runs from Bornheim to Westheim. You gotta work for it on this, though. It’s a trolley that runs on rail tracks. If you’re lucky enough to do the ride when they’re offering wine-tasting, even better. ;-)

You don’t have to do the trolley/track ride, you could just find a simple hiking trail. The Rheinauen is a quiet place, where you can even row along the Old Rhine if you want. But, I think the Druslach Bacherlebnisweg is more to my liking, as you can stroll this region and 5.5 km trail anytime of year.

It’s probably best to wait for it to warm up a bit before you go camping and swimming at the Baggersee (Quarry Pond), complete with its own sandy beach. No, come when it’s cold — that’s when they hold the Christmas Market. And October’s the month for the Rübenlichterfest, or Beet Festival.

Didn’t I tell you there was more than meets the eye in Lingenfeld? Go ahead, say it, Marcus you’re always right. ;-)

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