Schöntal — Better Than Something Ten Times Its Size

May 28th, 2013

Wow, I’ve been to cities with 56,000 people that don’t have half the stuff that Schöntal has with only a tenth of the population. Who knew what cool stuff there was up here in northern Baden-Württemberg? Once again, I’m pleasantly shocked. ;-)

The first thing you might notice in Schöntal is the Schöntal Abbey, or as it’s called around here, Kloster Schöntal. Anyway, at one time it was a Cistercian monastery that was sold to pay off the Maulbronn Monastery’s debt.

It’s been around from the middle of the 12th century, and has seen much of the town’s history. It was abandoned at one time (during the Peasants’ War), and was under siege by troops a hundred years later during the Thirty Years’ War. It was once an Imperial Abbey, but today it’s a retreat center.

Hard as it is to tear yourself away from this gorgeous church, you’ve got some castles to see. Burg Aschhausen doesn’t look as old as it is — it was built and destroyed during the Middle Ages, eventually rebuilt in the 1700s.

Burg Berlichingen, while technically a castle that once had a moat, looks more like a big manor house. You can’t get inside though, someone owns it.

If you want to see the Götzenburg Castle Museum, you better do between April and October as that’s the only time it’s open. And just because nothing remains of the 14th century Westernhausen Castle, doesn’t mean it isn’t cool to see where it was at one time.

Medieval history is good, but Roman history is older. Schöntal used to lie along the Limes Hohenlohe, a border area from the first century A.D. Some think the border was used more for commerce and trade — but does it matter two thousand years later? Guess not, but it’s still very cool to see.

Another one of Schöntal’s historical sites is the Jüdischer Friedhof, or Jewish Cemetery. There was a Jewish community in Schöntal for many centuries, as the cemetery’s oldest grave dates to 1659 — while the last one held was in 1936. There’s a plaque at the cemetery that details the community’s long history in the area.

For as much as Schöntal’s got in the history department, it’s got going on in the fun department. You’ve got the Maibaumfest on May Day (May 1), the Summer Festival and Street Festival (both in June), the Autumn Festival and Oktoberfest (both in October), a December Christmas Market, and a Wine & Autumn Festival in September.

What Schöntal really shows us, is that you don’t have to be a major city to be spectacular. Yeah, you can keep the big cities — I’ll take Schöntal any day of the week. :-)

Triberg im Schwarzwald And The World’s Largest Cuckoo Clock

March 18th, 2013

If you find yourself at the Triberg Waterfalls in the town of Triberg im Schwarzwald still surrounded by snow, don’t freak out… the pretty white stuff only enhances the beauty of Germany’s most famous waterfalls. There must be something to them, over a half-million people a year come to Triberg to see this natural attraction.

And if you think that’s the only thing to see in this Black Forest town, you’ve got another thing coming; you won’t even know where to start. Good thing I’m here to help, starting by suggesting you start your trip to Triberg at the local Tourist Office.

Theses nice folks have maps that’ll detail many of the city’s attractions, along with the countless cycling and hiking trails. This is where you’ll meet if you want a 2-hour guided tour that start at 2:30 on Wednesday afternoons. If you’re here between Easter and October, you can tag along to a Saturday tour at 10 am.

Let me say that no trip to Triberg should ever be without seeing the carvings at the Town Hall, located at Hauptstraße 57. The detail of these carvings are exquisite, and the work of a man with a vision back in 1926.

Nor, should you miss a trip to the gallows. Don’t worry, you’re not in any danger of being hanged — the last one was way back in the late 1700s — twelve of whom where hanged for witchcraft. Dark history, or not, the countryside surrounding the gallows is some of the prettiest in Germany.

Wait, I spoke too soon. If you’re willing to climb the 127 steps of the Stöcklewaldturm, you’re treated to views of the Alps and Swabian Alb. Some might argue they’re the prettiest places in Germany.

We can discuss it over coffee, or better yet, over a beer after the keg’s been tapped at Triberg’s 2-day Ham Festival (hello, Black Forest Ham). This is but one of many events held throughout the year, like the Summer Festival in August, and the Waldfest (Forest Festival) in July.

Some folks come for the parties, some come to see how cuckoo clocks are made. Triberg lies along the scenic Deutsche Uhrenstraße or German Clock Route, and boasts the world’s largest cuckoo clock.

And some people come to see one of the loveliest Baroque churches anywhere — known around here simply as Wallfahrtskirche Maria in der Tanne. It started simple enough back in the 1600s, where a few miracles were said to have happened — and a lone man put a statue of Mary into a tree.

These are but a mere taste of things to do in Triberg, any time of the year.

Feldkirchen (Munich) — See The Forest Through The Trees

September 26th, 2012

For anyone out there who can’t “see the forest through the trees,” the town of Feldkirchen (Munich) may not be right for you. See, you gotta work for it all in this town of just over 6,000 people, located right next door to Munich. And what do you expect, the entire town isn’t even seven square kilometers.

Well, put it like that, what can anyone expect from Feldkirchen?

History for starters. Did you know that a 7th century saint died here? Yes, St. Emmeram; and a charming little chapel (in a neo-Gothic style) stands in his honor. You’ll find it on Kapellenstraße, if you want to see it.

That’s not the only historical (and religious) site in Feldkirchen, ya know. There’s an Evangelical Lutheran one at Bahnhofstraße 2; built here in 1837. The St. James Church (found at Kirchenstraße 5) is a hodge-podge of architectural stylings from Gothic to neo-Baroque.

For the most part, Feldkirchen is just an average suburban town where folks get up, go to work in the big city, and come home after a long day at the office. The peace and tranquility of this cute place does seem to fall by the wayside during the annual Summer Festival held in July.

Summer’s a wonderful time to experience Upper Bavaria; when all the trees and flowers are in full bloom. No need to find a “marked” hiking trail — any sidewalk will do to take in the fresh air. See that monument on the Kirchenstraße? That’s a War Memorial for a late 19th century conflict.

Don’t wander off too far… Remember, Feldkirchen isn’t that big, so you don’t want to skadattle too far, only to wind up in Aschheim or Haar. Besides, if you leave now you won’t get to enjoy any of the Classical Music Concerts, Advent festivities, or even the Children’s Bazaar.

So what if Feldkirchen isn’t gigantic? So what if Feldkirchen doesn’t have a castle or two? So what if Feldkirchen is often shadowed by its big-city neighbor? You gotta see the big picture of Feldkirchen — and anyway, this is Bavaria — so you’ll never go wrong.

Fockbek — A Blend Of Urban And Rural In Schleswig-Holstein

September 26th, 2012

Schleswig-Holstein is one of those German states that somehow manages to always surprise you; for reasons like the town of Fockbek. If you ask the residents of this very northern German town, they’ll tell you that it’s got a great “blend of urban and rural life.”

Very true.

The Marktplatz isn’t framed by a myriad of half-timbered houses, but that doesn’t mean you won’t like it. This is an old fishing village, so it’s only fitting that there’s a Fishing Fountain located right here.

So, why is the the Fockbeker Dorfmuseum about farming instead of fishing? Just questions to ponder as you wander.

Actually, you don’t have to wander around aimlessly in Fockbek, the well-marked hiking and biking trails are color-coded to take you to what you want to see most. Whether you’re walking or biking your way, the Orange Route will take you out to the Fockenbeker See. Don’t panic, it’s only some 4km along the lake.

The Green Route (walking) and Red Route (biking) goes along the Fockbeker Moor, a landscape created thousands of years ago. The hiking route is only about 9km, while the bike route is 18km. There’s also another bike route along the Moor, the Grey Route — it’s just shorter at 11.2km.

A good hike or bike ride deserves a rest, so go to the Freibad Fockbek. This outdoor pool is affordable, family friendly, and if you’re lucky enough to be here on the season’s opening day it’s free. Otherwise you’ll have to pay a few Euro for the pleasure.

Fockbek is also the “seat” of a collective municipality of the same name. So after you’ve seen the best of Fockbek proper, you might want to go see the little brick church in the village of Nübbel, or the once abandoned (thanks to the Thirty Years’ War) hamlet of Rickert.

So, if you find yourself in neighboring Rendsburg — come take a look at Fockbek, it’ll find ways to surprise you.

Neuenstein (Hohenlohe) For Food, A Castle, And History

September 20th, 2012

Food. Castles. Food. Castles. This is why we Germans plan, plan, plan. We’re always trying to get in as much action as we possibly can.

No, it’s ’cause I can’t make up my mind in the town of Neuenstein (Hohenlohe).

Maybe I should go back to the beginning…

You see, Neuenstein has this totally fantastic castle, that used to be a medieval one, but’s not a 6-story Renaissance design. So beautiful are its 4 “wings” that you’ll find it on the Castle Road. A castle tour will show you its fully-functional kitchen and Imperial Hall.

Then there’s the food. Neuenstein lies right along the Swabian-Franconian Forest, so there are all sorts of regional dishes that just taste so good. Plus, there’s all the sausages, fruit & veg, and cheeses at the Weekly Market held every Thursday afternoon from 2:00 to 5:30.

Do you see why I can’t make up my mind on what to do first?

Strike that, I’m going to hit up the streets of Neuenstein instead. The Fräuleinsbau is a plain, gritty building from the 17th century — but for all its rustic simplicity, it’s truly beautiful.

And along the City Park you’ll find what remains of its 14th century Stadtmauer, or defense wall. On the Schloßstrasse you’ll find a narrow street framed by rustic half-timbered houses. It wouldn’t be right to leave out a visit to the Stadtkirche, with its medieval frescoes from around 1499.

Considered to be the most beautiful building in Neuenstein is the Old Hospital, built way back in 1474, with graceful arches with a half-timbered design.

A bicycle tour is a great way to get around to see it all. Just make sure you follow the map to the Bürgerturm, built in 1620 at 26 meters high. It’s been used for many things, from a poor house to the digs of the town’s Nightwatchman.

Still, I wouldn’t mind living in Neuenstein’s castle, or having a picnic under the Eiche am Emmertsdorf — a 750 year old Oak tree.

Ugh, I thought I solved this whole food or castles thing… ;-)

Beelen — From The Kerkherrenweg To The Schützenfest

July 22nd, 2012

OK, so what if the town of Beelen isn’t drenched in history, or can brag about some naughty royal that used to live here. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t want to come if you’re in this neck of the woods now, should it?

Where in the woods is it? Oh, right between Münster and Gütersloh in the Münsterland.

Sounds pretty, right? It is, and along the Kerkherrenweg (a trail) you’ll see how lovely it really is. It’s also a nice way to see some of Beelen’s Parish Churches. Oh, it isn’t too long of a distance, some 22 kilometers that run in a circular route — which you start and end at the Clarholz Abbey.

You’re more than free to do the Kerkherrenweg all on your own, but things like Beelen’s Photo Safari is done with a guide. They’ll take you out all over the countryside teaching you how to get the best pictures around.

Beelen’s other guided tours include ones to many of the area’s mansions; and one known as the Westphalia BBQ, where you grill at a local farmhouse & let the kids round around for some fun.

Other fun events in Beelen include the 2-day Schützenfest. held on the second weekend of July every year; and the Kirmes takes place on the weekend after Midsummer. St. John the Baptist is the Kirmes‘ Patron Saint, so everything is dedicated to him. But, you’re more than welcome to ride the carousel, shop the Flea Market, or munch at the snacks and confection stands.

Not able to make it? Don’t fret, you’ve still got a shot for showing up at Beelen’s Christmas Market (held on the Kirchplatz on the 3rd Advent), or to enjoy one of the outdoor theater performances every August.

In between all the festivals, make sure you’ve saved some time to see the half-timbered houses that really give Beelen extra charm and grace.

You know what? Beelen doesn’t need to be soaked in history, or have a randy royal — it’s fine just the way it is. :-)

Lübz — From The Amtsturm To The Marina To The Planetarium

July 9th, 2012

For anyone lucky enough to boat their way through the northern part of Germany, you might find yourself traveling along the Müritz-Elde Waterway. Which, by the way, will bring you right past the town of Lübz.

There isn’t enough to see here to keep you for any length of time, but even a short jaunt is better than none. Just park your cruiser, dinghy, or whatever you’re sailing at the City Marina (and with 55 berths available, parking shouldn’t be a problem).

Once on land the place you need to see is Lübz’s Altstadt, or Old Town. You can’t miss the Amtsturm (from the 13th century), the town’s landmark that was once part of its former castle (known as the Eldenburg). Today it houses the City Museum.

Nearby is the Lübz’s Gothic Stadtkirche (City Church), built back in 1570. It’s the final resting place for a Schleswig-Holstein Countess from the 17th century.

Wow, she must’ve really loved the place. Just like I think you will, too.

The Middle Ages and Renaissance gave us the ever popular half-timbered style houses, for which you’ll find a bunch of them along Am Markt, Ziegenmarkt, and Kreiner Straße.

Lübz was once home to a monastery, and you can still see the former Kloster (with its church) if you’re so inclined. Another place to learn about the Heavens is over at the Planetarium. They’re always hosting all sorts of events, so why not join in.

It ain’t a one-event show around here, Lübz seems to always have a musical concert of some kind going on. If you’re truly lucky, you’ll hear the Gregorian Chants sung at the Stadtkirche.

The last piece of Lübz lies in its history (as if the medieval tower and church doesn’t do it). You only have to visit the town’s World War I Memorial, and its old Jewish Cemetery.

Don’t forget to grab a bite before you’re sailing on out again — you’ll find everything from pizza joints to Mexican dishes. Oh yeah, and typical German cuisine, because that’s what you’re after, aren’t ya? ;-)

I’m looking to hitch a ride with anyone who’s got a boat. Permission to come aboard, Captain? :-)

Schöffengrund — A Heavy Hitter In The Hochtaunus

July 7th, 2012

Aww, poor Schöffengrund. Before you ask what’s wrong with this Hessian town, I’ll tell you nothing. It’s just that the place is surrounded by some pretty big hitters, like Wetzlar, Solms, and Braunfels.

Since I have a glass half-full heart, I’ll say that makes it the perfect place to hang around for a night or two while you go see the 120,000 volumes of the Solms Library, and the totally fantastic “Dracula Movie” looking Braunfels Castle (which is one of my all-time favorite German castles).

Still, this is all about Schöffengrund — so let’s find some stuff to do…

I do know that it’s easy to get to, accessed by some seven bus routes from the surrounding area. And, I do know that there’s a Vincent brand Motorcycle Museum in the village of Oberwetz. Just call ahead so you can arrange a guided tour.

In the village of Schwalbach you’ll find a church built back in the 1760s, and the Alte Rathaus from 1841. Right on Hauptstraße there are some of those half-timbered houses that give the hamlet some extra charm.

Framework houses can also be found in Niederquembach’s Old Town Center. What’s truly remarkable about this village’s old church is there are Bible quotes on its roof.

Oberquembach also has an Old Center, and a Napoleon Floor. That’s because it’s believed that the Frenchman was here. I don’t know if he did or didn’t, but if he missed the panoramic views from the Köhlerberg, he really missed out.

You’ll miss out if you’re not here for Schöffengrund’s festivals. The Midsummer Festival in June is fun for the whole family, which is followed by the Community Festival. The church Kirmes and the Erntedankfest (Thanksgiving Festival) are both held in September, followed by the Apfeltag (Apple Day) in October.

The year ends with Schöffengrund’s Christmas Market, but the upcoming new year will bring on thoughts of covered wagon rides, Old Village Tours, and all other kids of goodies going on.

I got so excited about everything else, I forgot to mention that it’s located within the Hochtaunus Nature Park.

I take that back, Schöffengrund — you’re just a heavy a hitter as your neighbors.

Schlangenbad — Good Water And Skin In The Rheingau

July 7th, 2012

It’s a given that any town in Germany with the designation of “Bad” is a spa town. But, not all spa towns have it. Places like the Hessian town of Schlangenbad.

Oh, wait. it kinda does have “bad” in its name.

Anyone out there is free to ponder if Schlangenbad has the moniker. I, however, will be hitting the spas. ;-)

At a balmy 27°C (81°F), the warm water is good for both the body and soul. Even better that Schlangenbad falls on the Bäderstraße Taunus, a scenic route of spas in the Taunus Region.

Lovely, I’ll think of the gorgeous walking lanes through the Rhein Taunus Nature Park (or the 11th century Rheingau protection wall of the Gebückwanderweg) while I’m getting a facial. That’s right, real men aren’t afraid of good skin.

The choice is your if you want to hit up the Thermal Baths, or if you’re up for hiking along the Rheinsteig that runs from neighboring Wiesbaden to Bonn.

That’s a far walk, so how about a guided bike tour instead? No need to go too far, you have to make it back for the outdoor summer concerts or the 3-day Schlangenfest.

All this activity can make anyone hungry. So head of Rheingau Straße where many of Schlangenbad’s restaurants are located. Shopping is a good activity to help with digestion, so off to the antique shops and clothing stores.

Die-hard nature lovers might rather take in an herb walk (who am I to judge), while castle seekers can head to nearby Burg Lahneck.

However, it is the spas of Schlangenbad that keep drawing you back. Of course, you haven’t had time to hit the sauna or drink the hot springs water from the fountain yet, have you?

Nope, didn’t think so.

Yes, anyone can head to cities like Wiesbaden for the spas — but doesn’t it give you a thrill to find precious places like Schlangenbad? I know me and my good skin do. ;-)

Hofbieber — Walking Barefoot Around Teaching Gardens

July 4th, 2012

I’ll be the first one to say it, Germans are a weird bunch. We work too hard, we’re a formal (but direct) society, and we don’t believe in small talk. But, then right in the middle of it all, you’ll find surprising towns like Hofbieber (right within the Rhön).

What makes this place so gosh-darn special? And what’s this got to do about strange Germans? It’s only for the simple fact that Hofbieber has an awesome Barefoot Adventure (known as Barfuß-Erlebnispfad).

Yup, right in the middle of it all is a place where us uptight and stuffy (that’s not always a correct assumption) bunch kick off our shoes, and let our hair down. Here in Hofbieber there are 18 stations, all with different textures to help you relax and experience nature.

After a stop there, it’s all back to the business of sightseeing. And usually I’d get all excited about a castle like Schloss Bieberstein (built around 1710). But, no…

This time it’s going to be the Oppidium Milseburg that wins my heart. It isn’t a castle, but a remnant of an Iron Age settlement; believed to have once been home to a thousand people.

Even older, by the way, are the Bronze Age burial mounds that were found here.

Hofbieber also offers the Naturlehrgarten Fohlenweide, an educational trail and garden with real life eco-system exhibits on orchards, ponds, and wildlife like birds and amphibians.

This town isn’t all history and learning experiences, it’s about fun too. Rock climbing in the hamlet of Kleinsassen is a good start, as is the Toboggan Run. Golfing is good a sport as any, and things like carriage rides and swimming await you too.

If there’s a festival going on, all the sports will have to wait. You don’t want to miss the Pfarrfest (June), Village Fest (June), Brunnenfest (July), Waldfest (August), Summer Festival (August), or the Church Kirmes in September, do you?

No, didn’t think so. But, if I stay out on the barefoot path too long — can someone come get me? ;-)

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