Fernwald — Names Change, But Locations Remain The Same

April 16th, 2012

Imagine if you were like a few hundred years old, and someone just decides to change your name? Well, that happened in 1971 to Annerod, Albach, and Steinbach. They became Fernwald.

Far be it from me to judge. I’ll just give you a piece of info on each one, so you know where you’re at. Annerod is surrounded by forest, while Albach is the least populated, and Steinbach the most (and oldest).

Wanna know where else you’re at? Surrounded by the Westerwald, the Vogelsberg, the Wetterau, the Lahn Valley, and the Taunus.

With this kind of location, you could change my name to Little Mary Sunshine for that matter — so long as I could stay here forever. ;-)

I know I joke around a lot, but I do take medieval sites seriously. Fernwald is close to what used to be the Kloster Schiffenberg; a monastery that’s still used for religious services and cultural events in the summer.

This ain’t the only church in town. Albach has an Evangelical one from the 1770s, and Annerod’s from the 1880s. Each are also known for the half-timbered houses from the 17th and 18th centuries.

FYI, not too much remains from Steinbach’s buildings prior to 1842, when it was totally and completely destroyed by fire.

As a whole, Fernwald has shops and stores, eateries and a pedestrian zone, two 18-hole golf courses, tennis courts, and no less than 10 playgrounds for the kids.

Hmm, family friendly!

Another family friendly activity would be Nordic Walking or hiking through the region. Again, the Westerwald, the Taunus… Do I gotta keep going?

You could always bike your way around. Feeling adventurous? Ride out to the nearby Klosterruine Arnsburg. That would be the ruins of the Monastery Arnsburg.

After going that far, a soak at the swimming pool and sauna is much appreciated. And a night at the only hotel in town (the Hotel Einhorn) would be, too.

Better call ahead to ’em if you’re coming for one of Fernwald’s festivals like the Apfelweinfest (Cider Fest) or all the Carnival celebrations that go on around here.

I hope they don’t change the name of the town on ya, before you get here. ;-)

German Football Route — Deutsche Fussballroute

April 10th, 2012

How many of you can’t remember your wedding anniversary or your kids’ birthdates for that matter, but can recite just about every fact, player, or rule there is to know when it comes to your favorite football team?

My American friends, I’m talking about soccer in case you’re all agog thinking about the Eagles, the Redskins, or the Packers for that matter. ;-)

Football fans are some of the most dedicated, hard-core, and fanatic there are on the planet — so what better way to celebrate your love of the game than along the German Football Route, or Deutsche Fußballroute as it’s called in German?

One thing you must know before you take off on a whirlwind tour through North Rhine-Westphalia (NRW) — it’s not a driving route, actually. The entire route (all 15 towns of it) is meant to be enjoyed on bicycle and by the power of your own two feet.

But, I guess the police won’t stop you should you so decide to travel this route by car. ;-)

The signage of the German Football Route is in both German and English, so no one will feel left out.

Except for those who don’t read either language, that is. ;-)

Anyway, each town on the route has a number of sites throughout, and all include a stadium of some sort where the best game on the planet is played.

Start Of The German Football Route

The German Football Route kicks off at the foothills of the Eifel in Aachen, where the Alemannia Aachen are used to hearing some 32,000 fans screaming for them at their new stadium, the Neue Tivoli. The old one, known as the Alte Tivoli, is also listed as one of the top places to visit — along with the Elisenbrunnen, a hot springs that’s a welcome relief to tired, achy, soccer-playing muscles.

You go right on ahead to the Aachen Hauptbahnhof, a huge train station where you’ve got a chance to see an old steam train. I’ll be right here at the hot springs waiting for you to get back before leaving for our next town.

Which is Cologne (also known as Köln) located just off the uber romantic Rhine River. Of course you’ll want to see the famous Cologne Cathedral and her 157.38 meter high towers. Five million visitors a year to this cathedral can’t be wrong, can they? No, didn’t think so either.

The cathedral is close to the Roman-German Museum, but you’re here for the soccer so off we go to the Sport & Olympic Museum, then to the RheinEnergie Stadion. This stadium can hold up to 50,000 spectators — and was a venue for the 2006 FIFA World Cup, as well as a number of concerts held by huge bands like Queen, Aerosmith, and U2.

Rock on! Oh wow, I think I just aged myself with that outburst. ;-)

How ’bout moving on to Leverkusen before I look like a total nerd, OK? One of the highlights of this town is the Schloss Morsbroich that’s now a modern art museum. Its English Gardens are heavenly, a quiet respite before heading to the BayArena (pronounce: by-arena) which can hold 30,000 screaming fans. If you watched the 2011 Women’s FIFA World Cup, you might have seen this stadium — which has a posh 4-star hotel.

The Women of FIFA played again in the BökelbergStadion in the football crazy city of Mönchengladbach. The stadium also hosted the likes of Elton John who played here. Must be nice to have over 50,000 people cheering for you, huh?

Mönchengladbach is a big sports town. You’ll see American Football, Hockey, and Basketball played here — add that to the museums, 13th century cathedral, and 10th century monastery and you’ve got the best of everything.

Oh I’m so torn when it comes to Krefeld. Hard to choose whether to run off to see Burg Linn (a 12th century moated castle) and its views from the observation tower, or to check out the Grotenburg Stadion and imagine running barefoot through its natural grass playing field.

Hmm, the castle does host an annual medieval craft market over Pentecost Weekend, but the stadium has hosted international soccer events. Either way, you can’t go wrong.

In Düsseldorf, I’m not quite sure why the Düsseldorf Airport is on the list of places to see on the German Football Route — and too bad there aren’t any Zeppelin rides like you can get elsewhere. So, I’ll cut right on over to the City Museum and the ESPRIT Arena. It’s the home field of Fortuna Düsseldorf — and 54,000 of their biggest fans. It’s also a big concert venue when the team’s not playing.

Moving on to Wuppertal, and the Stadion am Zoo, home of the Wuppertaler SV Borussia and their 23,000+ spectators. The record for soccer fans in this stadium is over 38,000 — which is 12,000 less than it held for a rally given by the Third Reich. Yes, that’s how old the stadium is.

Wupperthal’s historic Town Hall is also highlighted on this German Football Route, and if you get a chance to hear a concert here consider yourself lucky — the acoustics are fantastic.

On to Duisburg it goes, home of the MSV Duisberg who play at the Schauinsland-Reisen-Arena (formerly known as the MSV-Arena). This is a new stadium, built only in 2004, holding a whopping 31,000 fans. Duisberg’s zoo and Inner Harbor are two other places you’ll want to see.

Halfway done now. Can you believe how quick it’s going?

How about slowing down a bit in Oberhausen, doesn’t seem proper to rush through the Art Museum at Schloss Oberhausen. For something of a quicker pace, get caught up in the excitement of the 23,000+ fans rooting for the Rot-Weiß-Oberhausen team playing at the Stadion Niederrhein.

It’s a smaller stadium that awaits you in Essen. Built in 1939, the Georg-Melches-Stadion only holds about 15,000 people for football events and concerts. Funny, I think the elegant Villa Hügel is actually bigger — it sits on 28 acres and has 269 rooms. This massive estate was owned by none other than steel mogul, Alfred Krupp.

Gelsenkirchen‘s got two stadiums. The Parkstadion was the former home of Schalke 04 from the 1970s to 2001. The same year they moved into their new home, the Veltins Arena. Quite impressive is this elite stadium, holding upwards of over 61,000 people — and sells more than 52,000 liters of beer in a single month.

How does anyone manage to watch a football game? ;-)

It’s beer again in Bochum, home to the Private Brewery Moritz Fiege since 1878. After a taste testing trip there, head to the rewirpowerSTADION that’s hosted both the FIFA Women’s World Cup and the German Women’s Team events.

What’s a sporting event without beer? Nothing, I’d say. Good thing I’m headed next to Dortmund, another football uber crazy city and home of Borussia Dortmund who play at the Stadion Rote Erde, and DAB (Dortmunder Actien Bier, otherwise called Damn Attitude Beer by my friends ;-).

OK, so what if Dortmunder beer isn’t officially listed on the sites of the German Football Route? you can always say you’ve been to the Hohensyburg Casino and the Alte Rathaus (Old Town Hall) instead.

Münster is our second to last town, and where you’ll find the Preußenstadion, or Prussian Stadium, built in 1926. After events, you’re welcome to visit Münster’s historic Town Hall and the Old Mill.

Our time talking about football, beer, and some of the other best things in life are at an end in Bielefeld. Our last stadium to visit together is the SchücoArena, a.k.a. the Alm, home to Arminia Bielefeld. Their team colors are blue & white. So if you show up wearing anything else, don’t say I didn’t warn ya.

Of course, you could always choose to visit Bielfeld’s Sparrenburg or Theater am Alten Markt, or hike around the Nature Park of the Teutoburg Forest instead.

Nah, bring on the football… bring on the beer… I’m ready to put my game face on — after all, this is the German Football Route, isn’t it? :-)

German Football Route Web Site

For more info, here’s the official Web site of the German Football Route.

Lahn River — 3 States, 3 Directions, 1 Great River

April 9th, 2012

The Lahn River travels through three German states in three different directions (first east, then south-southwest, finally making an west-southwest turn to its mouth), and has more than two dozen tributaries. Not so easy, right?

Plus, not all 246 kilometers (153 miles) of the river are navigable; only 146 of it, most of which are in the middle to lower region of the river.

One thing that’s easy, is the Lahn River starts off at 602 meters (1,975 feet) above sea level on the Lahnkopf mountain in the Rothaargebirge. More specifically (and politically) on what’s known as the Lahnhof, which lies in the Nenkersdorf district of Netphen.

And get this… Nenkersdorf won the Unser Dorf soll Schöner werden (Our Village is Beautiful) award — and not once, but twice!

The Lahn now runs in a northeasterly direction from here to the town of Bad Laasphe, through the Rhenish Slate Mountains.

Yeah, I know, big deal — you wanna hear how it’s got lots of half-timbered houses, a castle (Schloss Wittgenstein), and how every late Summer/early Fall there’s the Kartoffelbratfest (a potato and wurst festival, yeah!).

Not too far downstream from here, leaving North Rhine-Westphalia behind, we’re in the Hessian town of Biedenkopf.

This place has a historical festival seven years in the making. The Grenzgang zu Biedenkopf happens every seventh year (2005, 2012,…) on the third weekend of August, attracting tens of thousands of visitors.

Other times of the year (or, would that be years) go see Biedenkopf’s nature park, the 14th century Schloss Biedenkopf (now a museum), and all the half-timbered houses you can count.

We’re going to be here in Hesse for a while, some 156 km of the Lahn runs through this state. And it’s OK, because it’s got towns like Marburg. Oh, what a place this is. Said to have the oldest Protestant university in the world, I guess that makes it educational as well as historical.

One famous resident was St. Elisabeth of Hungary — after leaving Wartburg Castle when her husband the Duke died. The St. Elisabeth Church in her honor is one of the most outstanding churches you’ll see anywhere.

Marburg, BTW, is where the Ohm River empties its water into the Lahn River.

Our next town along the Lahn is classy Gießen, another university town — and where a sub-camp of Buchenwald was located during World War II.

It was this conflict that destroyed 75% of the city — which has been rebuilt, now better than ever. You’ll see when you visit the Botanical Gardens, the Liebig Museum (a chemistry museum), and a Math Museum.

Uh, one plus one equals France? ;-)

Kidding. Kidding. I better get going before some university professor throws an eraser at me.

Following the Lahn town to Wetzlar, we meet up in a divided city to the Old Lahn Brigde (the city’s divided, BTW, because the Lahn slices it up), which used to be used for an old Pilgrimage Route to Lahnstein.

This is also where we meet up with the Dill River, one of the Lahn’s biggest tributaries.

Our last town in Hesse is Limburg an der Lahn, located between the Westerwald and the Taunus. The Old Bridge was once the Via Publica (not all of the Lahn’s bridges were this historical, but still wonderful). But, I’m sure you’re more familiar with its Limburger Dom, a most gorgeous Romanesque cathedral.

Limburg is also known for its Limburger Schloss, its Navy Museum, and its pieces that were once part of its original defense wall.

Crossing into Rhineland-Palatinate we find ourselves in Diez. Oh, I love Diez — with its awesome medieval castle along the river; but, also because of its Old World feel.

I’m sure its 13th century Collegiate Church and 14th century Stadtmauer have something to do with that.

When I see towns like this I forget kinda quick that I’m supposed to be talking about the Lahn River. So, to make up for that, sit by the Lahn in Diez and watch the swans swim by.

One thing: make sure you’re at the Lahn, since the Aar empties here in Diez.

You could always try fishing. You might catch a salmon or something. Uh, on second though… maybe not, since there are like 24 dams along the way. Good thing they added fishing ladders to let most of ’em though. How else was I going to catch my dinner?

Sorry, the Lahn loses again in Bad Ems, a spa town of writers, composers, queens, kings, tzars, and everything in between.

Maybe the Lahn doesn’t lose. It makes its presence known by slicing the town in half. Think about that while you’re having a spa treatment, or visiting the Spa & City Museum; the Mining Museum, and contemplating life’s issues at the mineral springs.

Its hot springs in Lahnstein, the last town on the Lahn before it becomes the Rhine, just south of Koblenz.

Lahnstein is where most of the yachting, boating, and other shipping goes on. You can watch all the boats go by at the Wirtshaus an der Lahn (Tavern on the Lahn), a drinking establishment that’s been here since the 17th century — with its tower from the 14th.

After a few beers, take a guided tour of the Burg Lahneck (that’s where they hold the Castle Festival); and then meet up with those following the Way of St. James Pilgrimage Route.

This isn’t the only scenic route. The Lahntal Bike Path and the Main-Weser Railway travel along its banks. Oh yeah, and its source lies along the Rothaarsteig, an awesome hiking trail. Plus, Lahnstein was once on the Roman Limes, a boundary of the Roman Empire.

All the better to see all the vineyards from this vantage point, I would think.

As beautiful as the Lahn River is, with all its shipping tunnels and nature areas, it is still subject to flooding. Don’t let a little water stop you from enjoying the Lahn, though, and whatever town you’ll find on its banks.

Now do you see why I said it wasn’t so easy to sum up the Lahn? It’s taken me along scenic routes and nature areas, medieval churches and castles. Nevermind, I think I did sum it all up fairly well. :-)

Aller River — A Golden Beetle In A Glacial Valley

April 9th, 2012

Ask yourself this… If you wanted to navigate your way along the Aller River, where would you start? The river’s some 260 km (162 mi) long, and not all of it is navigable. Would you think to start at the end and work backwards?

Well, if your intention is to boat the Aller, that’s what you’re gonna have to do. Because it’s so un-German to start at the end, following a certain order, I can’t do it.

I have to start at the source, the Allerquellen if you will, in the village of Eggenstedt (which is part of Wanzleben-Börde, BTW). This is what’s known as the Upper Aller, but it doesn’t change the fact that the Aller River is the Weser River‘s biggest tributary.

The Aller River was also prone to flooding, so thanks to a number of locks that risk has been substantially lowered. Too bad the Aller is still polluted, although efforts to reduce this have been seriously undertaken. Maybe this is why the Aller has like 40 sewage plants along the way.

Interesting, a bit of the modern within this glacial valley.

Part of the pollution is created from the mining industry, but the Aller was also a waterway used for timber rafting.

Timber what? Timber (wood) rafting — which is how Celle managed to get much of it to build all those framework houses we love so much.

Ahh, I’m just as guilty about doing things out of order. Let me go back. After Eggenstedt the Aller meets the Lappwald in Wefensleben, which also has a beautiful Village Church.

To the east of Wolfsburg lies Grafhorst, along the Drömling nature area with all sorts of endangered plant and animal species. Please tread carefully.

The city of Wolfsburg can handle a bit more, but is where you’ll find six nature areas. It’s also home to the Golden Beetle — which isn’t a bug, BTW. It’s the one millionth Volkswagen Beetle.

Cars, nature reserves — is there anything Wolfsburg doesn’t have? No, not really — it’s got a castle (three actually: Schloss Wolfsburg, Schloss Fallersleben, and Burg Neuhaus), a huge shopping mall, a pedestrian zone, a planetarium, and an old brewery.

That should just about cover it, huh? Cheers, Mate! ;-)

Wienhausen is where the Aller becomes navigable. Well, just as soon as you leave after visiting the half-timbered Mary Magdalene Chapel, the the Cistercian Monastery, and the Water Mill.

Welcome back to Celle and all 400 of her half-timbered houses. This is why it’s on the German Framework Road, a scenic route totally dedicated to this kind of architecture.

Remember, the Aller made it all possible. And this isn’t the only scenic route, the Aller Cycle Trail is another wonderful (and healthy) way to see it.

Water skiing is not only “healthy,” it sure is fun too. Good thing you can do both on the lower sections of the Aller River, more specifically on the last 120 km.

Leaving the half-timbers behind, Winsen (Aller) counters with the Lüneburg Heath. This is where the Aller picks up one of its biggest tributaries too.

Winsen is a quiet town with a bird sanctuary, but it’s also got a windmill and an ancient hotel from 1648 (the Hotel zur Post).

We’ve made it to the end of the Aller River at Verden, a Low German speaking town. Verden’s got an Old Town, with a Horse Museum, an Amusement Park, and a Romanesque Church (St. Andrews), and a cathedral.

Over the course of the last 260 km, the Aller’s been dyked and widened, it’s also been straightened a bit too. Most of it through the decade of the 1960s.

I hope they make the Aller River more clean soon. Because it brings folks to some of the prettiest little towns and stunning cities. And all I wanna know is, can I have that Golden Beetle? ;-)

Saar River — Vineyards In A Postcard Perfect Countryside

April 9th, 2012

Look at any German travel brochure, and chances are you’ve seen the most famous picture of German landscape ever taken. That’s right, that hairpin river turn taken from a high vantage point is, more often than not, none other than the Saar River.

The official length of the Saar is 246 km (153 mi), but no argument over its length here. Only 120 kilometers of it belongs to Germany. The other 126 km belong to France where the Saar starts at two sources, with the Red Saar being at the highest point at 785 meters above sea level.

The Saar doesn’t officially arrive in Germany until it gets to Kleinblittersdorf, which is just south of Saarbrücken. The beautifully modern, culturally rich city of Saarbrücken.

Because this is about the river, I have to tell you that if you want a boat ride — this is the place to do it. Ferries and all kinds of small boats like to find themselves in this magnificent city. Mostly coming from the French side of the river, BTW.

I’m guessing that everyone wants to see all its museums (like the Pre & Early History Museum, the Local History Museum, and the Saar Museum); or to walk along the Old Bridge.

As I said this is a cultural city, so no wonder the Saarland State Theater is here, but the St. Ludwig Church is the city’s landmark.

Most large vessels will travel the next 100+ kilometers, as the region is quite industrial. It is this industry that earned the Saar River’s next town a spot as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and on the European Route of Industrial Culture, Völklingen.

Völklingen’s claim to fame might’ve been its Iron Works (called Völklinger Hütte), but I like to think that its Huguenot and St. Eligius Churches had something to do with it.

What’s with all the “saars” anyway? Is everything named “Saar”?

Saarlouis is one of the most stunning cities along the Saar River, and it once belonged to both Prussia and France. Albeit not at the same time.

Saarlouis’ claim to fame is the Großer Markt, which is where you’ll find the 17th century Church of St. Louis, whose Kirmes “party” takes place on Good Friday.

I meant, St. Ludwig. This is Germany now. ;-)

The Altstadt (with castle, no less) is the setting for the annual Old Town Festival; and there’s also a huge Oktoberfest, and Easter & Christmas Market.

The Saar River meets the Rhenish Slate Mountains in the town of Merzig, on a flood plateau. This town is equal distant (50 km) to Trier, Metz in France, and the country of Luxembourg.

No French speaking places for us, so I’ll stay right here to see the “Green City” (don’t you just love environmentally friendly places?) that hosts a yearly Harbor Festival. Better yet, it’s also got a bunch of medieval buildings (including a 12th century Romanesque Church, St. Peters), a Heritage Museum, and a wolf sanctuary.

One of the most photographed places in Germany is right here along the Saar where it bends in a hairpin turn at Mettlach.

The fact that Mettlach is just shy of being 50% forested might have something to do with it. If you hike the Saar-Hunsrück-Steig and/or the Saarland-Rundwanderweg, you’ll see it all for yourself.

Speaking of the Saar-Hunsrück, the Saar-Hunsrück Nature Park is here in Saarburg. This is also where the Leukbach empties, which is one of the Saar’s 28 tributaries.

Forget water for a minute. Saarburg’s historic Altstadt has a castle and 17th/18th century houses; along with a museum at the Old Mill, and an 11th century church.

Besides, Saarburg hosts a yearly Wine Festival in September, has a summer toboggan track, and offers lots of boat trips along the Saar.

Wait, how could I forget the water — there’s a waterfall running through the middle of town. Would it be wrong to stay here for a while, as you go off to Wiltingen?

OK, I’ll go. This municipality of just over 1,400 is a real wine making town — mostly the Riesling, great if you like dry Whites.

Nothing like a good bottle of vino to keep me going, so I’m going to make it to Konz after all. What’s so special about Konz? This is where the Saar enriches the Moselle.

Before advancing to the Moselle, I’ll be off to the Roman Emperor Villa ruins, and the Old Mill. Even better, you’re just one town over from Trier, Germany’s oldest city.

Nah, with all the vineyards that I’ve seen along the banks of the Saar, I’m staying right here. ;-)

European Celtic Route — Europäische Keltenroute

April 9th, 2012

We know Germany has its fair share of scenic routes, dedicated to everything (Industrial Heritage, monasteries, etc) and everyone (the Romans, etc), so why should the Celts be any different? They’re not, which is why there’s the Europäische Keltenroute, or as it’s called in English the European Celtic Route.

This route is laid-out a bit different, and it also travels into France & Luxembourg. Nothing personal against our French-speaking neighbors, but the majority of sightseeing falls within Germany’s borders. And since this is about Germany and Germany only…

We’ll start at the Völklingen Ironworks, or the Völklinger Hütte, in Völklingen, which is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world’s only surviving iron works from the heydays of the iron and steel industry.

Up next is the Fürstengrab (Princely Tomb) Elm-Sprengen, a reconstructed Celtic grave in the town of Schwalbach (Saar). The original dated to around 500 B.C., and it’s where they found a 4-wheeled wagon. It’s also located along the 11.5 Celtic Walking Trail, for a nice hike in their long-gone footsteps. In your GPS, enter Püttlingen for the city and Saarlouiser Straße for the street and you’ll find it.

In Niedaltdorf (part of Rehlingen-Siersburg) along the French border are 40 Celtic burial mounds. This too has a hiking trail, this time the 6km circular Druidenpfad. Search for Neunkircher Str. and you’re good to go.

A dedicated hiker will appreciate Düppenweiler-Nalbach, which lies within Beckingen. Follow the Litermont-Sagenweg or Litermont Legend Trail (17km total) to the Grauer Stein or Grey Stone (a.k.a. Druid Stone). OK, OK, no one knows for certain if the Druids or Celts used this peak for anything — but it does feel “magical.” BTW, Piesbacher Str. is the meeting point here.

Not only do you get Celts in the Borg district of Perl, but Romans too. Excavations at the Villa Borg found artifacts dating to the Romans (around 190 B.C.). It’s now an archaeological park and includes an excavated Roman Tavern — located at Im Meeswald 1.

For a bit of folklore, it’s Mettlach you want. Besides a Celtic Fort (circa 500 – 300 B.C.) over at Burg Montclair, it’s thought that there are a few altars used for sacrifices nearby. Plus, the stunning view over the Saarschleife is just gorgeous. Target the Bezirksstraße in Mettlach in your GPS device and then follow the signs from there.

As if the Celts and Romans weren’t enough, how about we throw Etruscans into the mix? The Estruscans? What do they have to do with the Celts? Everything — since some of their “goods” were found in the three graves in Weiskirchen, along with gold. Over at the Haus des Gastes is a small museum displaying some of what was found.

BTW, the Etruscans were an ancient civilization that predate the Romans in an area of Italy’s Tuscany Region.

More Celtic burial mounds (re-erected) await you in Wadern; as does a Roman Temple and Villa. Guided tours are available year-round if you’re so inclined to learn more. How could you not? GPS users target the parking area at Höhenstraße in the Oberlöstern district of Wadern. From here on in simply follow the signs to the two Grabhügel.

The Otzenhausen district of Nonnweiler is a Celtic delight. Not only is there a circular wall (called Keltischer Ringwall) along a former fort site (400 – 50 B.C.) with walls 25-meters thick, but a Celtic Sculpture Trail and a Celtic Festival (called Celtoi, held every 2 years). Take a guided tour or walk around on your own — choice is yours. You’ll find the parking area at the Ringwallstraße.

Still in Nonnweiler, two Celtic graves were found in its Schwarzenbach district (search for Zur Schellkaul in your GPS), but that’s not the most spectacular part. It was all the Celtic jewelry found within them that makes this worthwhile. Take a guided tour to hear all about the magnificent “golden bowl” and other artifacts that were found.

Tholey is a treat. Not only does it have a replica of a Celtic burial chamber (Birkenfelder Str.) — but also the Theulegium Museum (Rathausplatz 6), filled with all sorts of Celtic and Roman artifacts. Some of the jewels from the chamber even found themselves in a museum in Trier.

No graves in Schmelz (Limbach district; parking area at Schmelzer Str.), just a hilltop fortification known as the Birg. It is thought the fort fell during the Gallic War (58 – 51 B.C.), and today you can enjoy a stunning picnic area or take a guided tour. Ahh, you know what? Do both.

The Etruscans make a comeback in Marpingen-Remmesweiler, as more of their wares were found in Celtic burial mounds (5th & 4th century B.C.), as were gold and iron goods.

It is believed that a grave of a Celtic princess was found in Homburg, along with grave steles. Sorry, the only way you’ll get to see this is if you’re willing to hike the forest trails to get here. The parking area is at Saar-Pfalz-Straße.

Oh, buck it up!! You wouldn’t want to miss out. ;-)

Still in Homburg, for a look at Roman or Gallic farms, you don’t have to go any further than its Schwarzenacher district. You’ll also see a Roman Temple site at the Roman Museum. Of course with this kind of history, a guided tour is always a good idea.

At Sankt Ingbert a little bit of history and legend come together. Yes, there was a Celtic fort here (then a medieval tower at one time), but at the strange rock formation known as Großer Stiefel (Big Boot) it was believed the Celts used to gather for all sorts of rituals. Whether they did or not, the natural landscape is marvelous. Again, you’ll have to hike a bit along some forest trail, which is so worth it. The Waldparkplatz in the Sengscheid district is a good starting point.

It’s back to the Celtic graves gains, this time in Gersheim — more specifically the Europäischer Kulturpark (European Culture Park) Bliesbruck-Reinheim (Robert-Schuman-Straße 2). Here you’ll see replicas of Celtic jewelry (including rings & brooches) and even a mirror. That is, if you’re here between March & October.

We’ve finally reached Saarbrücken, where you can take your time visiting the Museum für Vor- und Frühgeschichte (Pre & Early History Museum, located at Schloßplatz 16), or walking along the Rennweg — a Celtic Culture trail. A good starting point for the latter is the parking area at Großblittersdorfer Straße.

As pretty as Saarbrücken is, it’s time to visit the oldest city in Germany: Trier. This place has it all, Stone Age, Celtic, and Roman artifacts — all neatly wrapped up at the Rheinisches Landesmuseum (Weimarer Allee 1).

The Landesmuseum in Birkenfeld (Nahe) (Friedrich-August-Straße 1) also houses a Celtic exhibit, as well as highlighting on 8 “stations” everything about Celtic farming, religious practices, crafts, and more. Sorry, the museum’s closed December & January, so plan accordingly.

Wow, only six towns left — I hope you’ve enjoyed this route so far as much as I have.

What I like about the Archaeology Park Belginum in Morbach (Keltenstraße 2) is that you’ll see the living side of the Celts. What they ate, how they worked, what tools they used, that kind of thing — just as long as it’s between March and October.

From April 1 to October 31 you can see what a Celtic Settlement looked like in Budenbach (Friedhofsweg). Not only are there replicas of Celtic houses, but all sorts of Celtic events (including the Altburgfest) held throughout the year.

In Pommern (Mosel), there’s an archaeological park that highlights a fortified settlement and a Roman Temple. The park is only open April 1st to October 31, and guided tours are available. In your GPS, target Am Goldberg.

What’s next? Mainz, a city on a trade route from as far back as the Stone Age. Hey, Etruscan goods had to get here somehow, right? Anyway, not only does Mainz have a superb collection of prehistoric artifacts in its Landesmuseum at Große Bleiche 49 (that would include the Celts), but also a gorgeous cathedral, and great weather.

Can you ask for anything more? Yeah, actually. ;-)

Steinbach am Donnersberg would be one, a site of a reconstructed Celtic Village (called Keltendorf am Donnersberg). The wall itself isn’t new, it dates to around 130 B.C. — and you can even get a real hands-on experience in Celtic crafts.

The European Celtic Route ends at the Historisches Museum der Pfalz (Historical Museum of the Palatinate) in Speyer. The museum, open Tuesday to Sunday, has all sorts of exhibits from the Dark Ages, right down to Celtic jewelry. The oldest piece in the history’s collection is a Faustkeil (Hand Axe) that’s whopping 190,000 years old.

No, that’s not a misprint. ;-)

The European Celtic Route has given us the best of Germany’s Celtic history — a nice change since most associate the Celts with places like Ireland, Scotland, and Wales. And you’ll see as you go along, that while the Celts might have been living in prehistoric days, they were quite an advanced society. Don’t you agree? :-)

Frankenstein Castle — A Fictional Story In A Lively Burg

April 9th, 2012

On par with Dracula and The Mummy, the name Frankenstein can instill fear and excitement, forever immortalized by the literary genius of Mary Shelley.

There’s been speculation that Ms. Shelly wrote her terrifying novel about Burg Frankenstein in the town of Mühltal in Hesse, but no one really knows for sure. And while her story might be fiction, there really is a Frankenstein Castle — and it’s spooky, fantastic, and quite lively considering you’ll find it in ruins.

About The Frankenstein Castle And Its History

Although the first time anyone heard the name Burg Frankenstein was in 1252, it is believed that the massive stone structure has been here at least a decade before that.

The oldest part of the castle lies along the courtyard, where you’ll see its battlements and ramparts. Castles were meant for defense, so it’s common to find these military-type defense systems here too.

I should say, the oldest part anyone knows about. The current Burg Frankenstein is said to sit atop an even older castle, but sadly no one can verify that. But, the castle did go through a renovation of sorts in the 16th century, and was expanded.

The Frankenstein Castle did have a famous resident, that wasn’t the Monster Frankenstein. Johann Konrad Dippel, an alchemist, lived here — and reportedly still does, as his ghost is said to still haunt the grounds.

Maybe he likes the view, as Burg Frankenstein sits at 370 meters, overlooking the Odenwald. It isn’t the only castle in the region, but it is the most northern one you’ll find in a string of them on the western side of it.

Another story associated with the castle is that of St. Georg, told by the Brothers Grimm. According to the legendary storytellers, good ol’ St. Georg slayed a dragon here in order to keep his girlfriend on the side from becoming its lunch. I’m sure his wife wasn’t too happy. ;-)

Frankenstein Castle Highlights And Features

While Burg Frankenstein doesn’t have a museum, it does have a restaurant (serving traditional German cuisine) with an outstanding view. Before you eat, you might want to see the castle’s chapel. It might not look like much with its squat architecture and windowless design, but it’s still outstanding.

The castle’s tower is its most prominent feature, and was once part of its drawbridge system. Yes, Burg Frankenstein had a moat. At the Gymnastics Festival Monument is a War Memorial, which is a sword resting on a pedestal.

Frankenstein Castle is the location of a couple of festivals throughout the year. One of the biggest is the Frankenstein Mountain Gymnastics Festival, held every year in August or September. The other is the Halloween Fest, where on weekends in October/November the castle’s all decked out with special effects.

On Sundays you’ll see the Knights of Frankenstin Castle, or the Mediaevalis Cultus, doing all sorts of medieval stuff. The sword fights are really popular, and it’s totally fun to watch everyone decked out in period garb. I don’t know if everyone would be so cheerful if they had to use medieval plumbing. ;-)

Frankenstein Castle Location And Opening Times

It’s easy enough to get to the Frankenstein Castle if you’re following the Burgenweg or Alemannenweg walking trails, since they come right to the castle.

If you’re driving, take the Autobahn A5 to the Darmstadt-Eberstadt exit, turn right, and then from the B3 on to the B426. Then take the third street to the right (Josephweg), following the signs for the rest.

If you’re equipped with a GPS device, simply enter Mühltal for the city and Fahrweg for the street.

A number of bus routes will bring you to Mühltal from Frankfurt am Main, Eberbach, Erbach (Odenwald), and Darmstadt. The latter is only a few kilometers away, making it a great stop if you’re traveling by train.

And of course, if you’re coming here by airplane the closest airport is the huge Frankfurt Airport [FRA], which is merely 38 km or 30 minutes away.

Frankenstein Castle Opening Times

Burg Frankenstein and its restaurant are open every day throughout the year, with the exception during January and February where its restaurant is only open on Weekends and holidays. The castle remains open though, except with heavy weather (storm, snow fall, etc.).

Frankenstein Castle Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the mystic Frankenstein Castle.

Spree Forest (Spreewald) — Wendish, Sorbish, And German Culture

April 5th, 2012

I know you’ve had to heard about the Spree River, but have you heard about the Spree Forest, or Spreewald in German? This forested region that encompasses a UNESCO Biosphere is 484 square kilometers of Ice Age created goodness.

There are over 200 channels of waterways within the Spree Forest; and believe it or not — in some regions mail is delivered by boat.

What is this, Venice? No, it’s Brandenburg, Germany and just about 100km to the south of Berlin.

Notice I didn’t say it’s strictly “German.” The Spreewald is home to the Wendish Sorbs (a Slavic people from the days of the Holy Roman Empire) who settled here centuries ago. So, while you might not hear anyone speaking Italian, it won’t be unheard of to hear people speaking Sorbian.

Don’t know how anyone can be talking anyway, everyone should be too busy eating. This is the land of cucumber, even giving the Spree Forest its own scenic route — the Gurken-Radweg, or Cucumber Bicycle Trail. The best time to do this is from March to October, just so you’re prepared.

Cucumbers aren’t the only species growing around here, BTW. Some 18,000 species of plants live in the grasslands. I don’t, however, think that all of them are edible. ;-)

The Spreewald’s gotta have something to attract the millions of people it sees every year. Some come for the UNESCO Biosphere, which is an area only 48 hectares big.

Some come for the outdoor recreational activities, like boating (pretty easy to rent a boat here) or bicycling. Oh, I guess you’re following the Spreeradweg then, another scenic route.

Please, if being outdoors isn’t for you, then a spa experience is just what you need. You will miss out on all the canoeing and kayaking that way, though.

Tell ya what, start your Spree Forest visit in Golßen, which is full of historic houses and has one of the oldest churches. Besides, we’ll go from there to see the best of the Spreewald.

On top of it, Golßen is within a conservation area of the Spree Forest.

Our next town is Lübben, with a castle (you had to know I was gonna find one somewhere), a City & Regional Museum, and a castle island that’s a venue for all sorts of cultural events and concerts.

Close in name is Lübbenau, where a boat ride along the canal is a must. Afterwards, visit the Altstadt, the castle, the Local History Museum, and find a cycling trail.

One of Lübbenau’s villages is Lehde, where Wendish dress and culture are sure to be seen. A Spree Forest barge ride is most definitely in order, and seeing the mailman deliver your post via boat is not out of the ordinary.

Speaking of Wendish, Vetschau is home to a Wendish-German Church, and a castle — which is one of only forty reconstructed Slavic castles, which is also a restaurant and a Lusatian Archaeology Museum.

You better leave your car in a safe spot, since over in Burg (Spreewald) there is no vehicle access to the Spree Forest. Please, it’s not so bad… This inland delta in the Spree-Neiße District (the other two of the Spree Forest are the Dahme-Spreewald and the Oberspreewald-Lausitz) is best explored on foot.

Cottbus, or Chosebuz in Lower Sorbian, is the last town on our Spreewald trip. This old city has a Castle (with Castle Church), a Wendish Museum, an Art Museum, a Stadtmauer (with a 31-meter high tower), lots of theaters, and a planetarium.

Wow, it sure is nice to go from ancient history to the far reaches of space!

Just because I’m ending it here in Cottbus doesn’t mean you’re done with the Spree Forest. There’s a lot to be done, so good thing there are over 25 campsites, and 10,000 hotel “beds” to get some rest — and do it all over again.

Make that 9,999 — I’m taking one, so long as it has room service.

Bernkastel-Kues — Romantic Stop Along The Romantic Moselle

April 4th, 2012

It’s not uncommon for the town of Bernkastel-Kues to be spelled Bernkastel-Cues. Whichever way you choose to spell it, there’s one thing that won’t change — the place remains a medieval masterpiece to this very day.

You’ll notice this straightaway the minute you get to the Marktplatz with all its half-timbered houses framing it. OK, so what if they come from the 17th century (including its Renaissance Rathaus from 1608) — which is not the Middle Ages — but who am I to judge. ;-)

Actually, come to think of it… The cute lil’ Spitzhäuschen (it’s that narrow pointed looking building) was built in 1416 — which makes it medieval, right?

Have I missed anything else medieval? Oh yes, the Graacher Tor, the last remaining gate of Bernkastel-Kues.

Around the same time as the Spitzhäuschen was being built, a boy by the name of Nikolaus von Kues was born. He became a Cardinal of the Catholic Church, and a leader of astronomy and other pursuits. You can see the house where he was born, and the Cusanusstift where he’s buried. Well, his heart is anyway.

Regardless, the Cusanusstift has a library full of medieval manuscripts from the 9th-15th centuries.

The history of churches and its men don’t end here. Go see the Church of St. Michael (you can’t miss its tower hovering over the town), the Monastery Machern, and the Burgruine (castle ruins) Landshut, that used to be the summer home of the Bishops of Trier (which is only about 50km away).

And, please, we haven’t even gotten to the Passion Play yet that’s held every 5 years in the area (2007, 2012, …).

With all this outstanding architecture, what could be better? Um, how ’bout the steep slopes of the vineyards in the background? Oh yeah, the Middle Moselle Region is famous for its Riesling grapes — and cruising along the romantic Moselle River is a pretty way to see ’em.

Or, you could head to the Moselle Wine Museum to learn something about it.

Forget that — hit up the wineries; especially for the Wine Cellar Days, or the Wine Festival on the first weekend of September.

That stinks the Medieval Spectacle is only every other year; but rest assured that the Christmas Market, the Classical Music Festival, the Rowing Regatta, and the Street Fair are all annual events. At least the Weekly Market is held more often — every Saturday from 9am to 2pm.

Yikes, I think I spent all my Euros at the wineries. Oh well, guess I’ll just have to listen to the sounds of the Moselle Music Festival instead of shopping. ;-)

Beerfelden — Gallows Or Odenwald?

April 4th, 2012

It’s a good thing none of us lived in (or around) Beerfelden before 1804. Not that you wouldn’t have loved the scenery of this tiny Hessian town. It’s quite beautiful, in fact — so that ain’t it.

So, what happened after 1804 that would make all the difference?

The gallows.

For anyone who doesn’t know what the gallows are, they’re where you were sent to be hanged. Yikes, a brutal start to this Web page, huh?

But this ain’t 1804. The use of Beerfelden’s gallows are done, but they still remain out under a shady spot, used for more than 400 years.

OK, done with the creepy stuff… festivals, anyone?

No, that’s too big a jump from one to the other. Let’s hit up a castle ruin first. Burg Freienstein might look romantic (it was built before the end of the 13th century), but when it was sacked in 1622 I’m sure someone would’ve disagreed.

Now can we get to the festivals?

Still too much of a jump — gotta work that in. ;-)

All right, well, Beerfelden lies in the heart of the Odenwald and has a chapel that was built over “healing springs.” It’s the Leonhardskapelle, so you know which one. And the town’s got a Local History Museum, called the Oberzentmuseum, located at Brunnengasse 22.

Festivals now? No, let me tell you about all the hiking (multi-day hiking is available with a guide if you want), bike lanes, Nordic Walking trails, mountainbiking, and winter sports (skiing, tobogganing, winter hiking) all await you in the Odenwald.

OK, now we can do the festivals since everyone’s happy from all the exercise. So, what does Beerfelden have? For starters, it’s got a huge livestock market in July. And there’s a Kirmes (church festival) on the first weekend of October; with an Autumn Market held on October 3rd.

Oh yes, there’s another church festival in August, right around the same time as Beerfelden’s Summer Festival. You gotta check the Christian calendar for the Spring Festival, that falls at Ascension.

To give you a hint, that’s 40 days after Easter.

Wow, that’s quite a bit of stuff to see and do in and around Beerfelden. But, then again, I’m just glad not to be here for the gallows.

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