Saulheim — Charming Winemaking Town In Rhenish Hesse

October 14th, 2011

Got wood? Chances are if you’ve got even a shred of timber lying around you can thank one of Saulheim’s sons. This town in Rhenish Hesse in Rhineland-Palatinate was the birthplace of Friedrich Weyerhäuser, living here until he was 18.

Mister Weyerhäuser went on to emigrate to the the United States, but you’re more than welcome to see his humble German beginnings. At the time of his death he owned more than 30 factories and became one of the world’s largest suppliers of wood — which his company is still doing.

Not in Saulheim, though, in case you’re wondering.

Saulheim is a quiet agricultural town where fields of sugar beets and asparagus stretch as far as your eyes can see. You know what else is grown around here? Grapes.

Yup, those delicious wine making varieties that’ll go great with all that locally grown produce. The Ritter-Hundt-Weinkerb is a great wine event, held every year over the second weekend of September.

At the Weingut Landgrafenhof culinary and wine-tasting (among other events) await me. No, I mean you. How about us — care to join me? ;-)

This isn’t a one-festival town, I can tell you that. The Backesbrunnenfest is held always on the 1st weekend of July, the Maifest every May (as if you couldn’t tell), and the obligatory Christmas Market in December.

The largest festival is the Kerb, a four day event (Friday-Tuesday) over the last weekend of August.

Saulheim’s church is worth seeing, even if there isn’t a festival going on. The Church of St. Bartholomew was built way back in the 14th century, however it was the artwork of Alois Plum in the 20th century that transformed this medieval church. It was his work on St. Bart’s (as I lovingly call it) stained glass, known as the Resurrection Window, that is a focal point here.

Another focal point in Saulheim is a menhir that’s named Langer Stein. It’s associated with all sorts of pre-Christian legends, but also has Christian symbols as well. Just don’t go drawing your own on it, OK? ;-)

Schelklingen — Castle Ruins In A Biosphere Reserve

October 14th, 2011

The seven districts of Schelklingen in Baden-Württemberg is widely known for its medieval Benedictine Monastery. However, what if you weren’t interested in seeing a medieval monastery? (Oh, I can’t even believe I just wrote that.)

What then? You’d be skipping out on visiting a town like Schelklingen — thinking all it’s got is an old kloster, right?

Not so, my friends. Not so.

Schelklingen’s got castle ruins. Or, should I say the ruins of castles, because you’ll find what remains of four (yeah, that’s a lot) of ’em. There is an intact castle to boot, too. ;-)

Goody!

The ruins of Castle Muscherwang (built 1271) and its “moat” are found along the Kloster Urspring, which was built in 1127. This place was pretty happening throughout the Middle Ages with a 16th century guesthouse that catered to those on a spiritual quest. From the 15th century onward there was a guesthouse for those secular travelers looking for proper accommodations.

You can’t stay there today, but you’re more than welcome to visit its 17th century Abbey Church. Everyone raves about the monastery’s painting and sculptures (and the medieval graves if you’re into more of the macabre).

After visiting another church, this time the St. Afra Chapel (14th century), go ahead and hit up another castle ruin. Might I suggest the Justingen Castle, which stood from 1090 until 1834? Time and the elements have ravaged this abandoned castle, but its outer walls and arches can still be seen.

Where next? Hmm, how about a hike through the Biosphere Reserve Swabian Alb (which is within the Swabian Alb)? Yeah. Yeah. Nature. Great. Belongs on the Planet Green Network. :-)

No, I’m kidding — the Swabian Alb is a beautiful piece of land, and everyone should get a chance to see all the local wildlife, plants, and flowers.

You should also see the ruins of Hohenschelklingen (built in 1127, dest. 1650s), and the spot where Castle Studach once stood (from 1210). Trust me, you’ll know where Studach once was — there’s a Baroque chapel.

The only castle left is Castle Neusteußlingen, an intact castle from 1897 that was built over the 12th century one. It was the home of Duke Ludwig von Württemberg — and sadly isn’t open to the public.

At least the Weekly Market (on Wednesdays) and the St. Nicholas Market (1st Saturday of December) are a public affair. Here’s your chance to see all the half-timbered houses (including a guesthouse from the 16th century) while you’re shopping for great Swabian delights.

Aren’t you glad you decided to come, after all?

Bad Blankenburg — City Of Lavender In The Thuringian Forest

October 13th, 2011

I wonder how you address Bad Blankenburg’s Lavender Queen. Do you call her “Your Royal Lavender Majesty”? Perhaps, “Your Lavender Majesty” will suffice.

You know I’m joking, but one thing that’s not a joking matter is the business of lavender. Lavender is so big in Bad Blankenburg that it even warrants its own festival, called the Lavendelfest.

Its village of Kleingölitz (one of the town’s eight hamlets) is really big on growing lavender. And funny enough, Kleingölitz has more residents than Großgölitz (which has some pretty awesome hiking trails, BTW).

Big difference from the days of Bad Blankenburg being a cobalt, copper, and ore mining town, huh? More specifically, the village of Böhlscheiben was known for mining, right up until the 18th century.

It was the 19th century that changed the town’s world forever, ya know. It was here in 1837 that Germany (and the world) got its very first Kindergarten ever at Bähringstraße 6 – 8, all thanks to Friedrich Fröbel. A museum to Mister Fröbel (and his contribution to education) is located at Johannisgasse 4.

Other historical sites would include visiting the Burg Greifenstein. Whether you’re here to learn about life in the Middle Ages (you can even learn about falconry), to have dinner, or even get married — who could ask for a better place than this 12th century castle that overlooks the Thuringian Forest?

The forest, by the way, is pretty awesome if you’re looking for a little quiet time along either its walking or cycling trails. The village of Oberwirbach is located totally within the forest, and also has a pretty 13th century church — in case you’re interested in stopping.

Zeigerheim (a village of less than 150 people) has a church that’s worth seeing, this one being a fortified church from the mid-14th century. The oldest church of them all is the Stadtkirche, built in 1196.

Then do yourself a favor, head straight to the Brewery Museum. Nothing like a museum of beer to get you in the mood for an evening spent at a local beer garden, where you can spend time discussing the proper way to address that Lavender Queen. ;-)

Vohburg an der Donau — A Medieval Castle And Gate Town

October 11th, 2011

There are medieval towns, and then there are medieval towns. What’s the difference? Well, in my head, there are towns that were created around or during the Middle Ages—going on to become ultra modern cities. Hence, a medieval town.

Then you’ve got places like Vohburg an der Donau, a town that has many of its buildings, gates, and towers from the epic era. Thus making it a true medieval town.

How can you not fall in love with a place like this? Picture yourself walking through ancient gates like the Kleine Donautor, the Donautor, or the Auetor for a jousting event, or catch a glimpse of a fair maiden.

Jousting and chivalry might have gone by the wayside, but these massive gates from the 13th-15th centuries remain.

Castles are also part of the medieval package, and Vohburg’s got one. All right, the Castle Vohburg isn’t a castle anymore—it’s the cemetery church of St. Peter. And the site of some of Vohburg’s festivals.

Last, but most certainly not least, of Vohburg’s medieval beginnings is the 13th century St. Andrew’s Church—that is now the town’s Rathaus.

While you might be leaving the Middle Ages behind, you’re not done in Vohburg yet. How about getting outside for a while before seeing all the 17th, 18th, and 19th century buildings? Good idea, right?

Vohburg lies along the Danube Cycle Path and the Via Raetica (a cycle trail that’s all about the Romans). Even if you’re not into riding bikes, no problem—this is Upper Bavaria, so just a simple walk will do.

Yeah, as if walking around looking at the 17th century War Memorial Chapel (it’s Baroque) and the St. Anthony Church (also Baroque & once belonging to the Franciscan monks) isn’t enough.

One amazing piece of artwork lies at the Pflegschloss (built 1721) that is known for its Maria Immaculata, a carving made of hardwood. The sculpture is so stunning that it overshadows the fact that Napoleon slept here.

Forget the short French dude, it’s time to get your festive on. ;-)

Two of the biggest events is the Street Festival (in conjunction with the St. Peter Market) in June, and the Folk Festival Weekend every September; but the Kathreinmarkt and the Christmas Market aren’t slacking in the fun department.

At least in my head they aren’t. Hopefully you’ll be thinkin’ the same thing. :-)

Ankum — Camping Out Amongst Prehistoric Rocks

October 11th, 2011

Here’s where things can get a bit tricky (dicey, even) when trying to find your way around Germany. And I most certainly don’t want to confuse you, for that’s why I’m here to help you in the first place.

First, you might hear that the town of Ankum lies on the Route of Megalithic Culture (Straße der Megalithkultur in German). Because this scenic route is to highlight the best megaliths (think Stonehenge), which are often found just outside of town, many towns will take claim of the prehistoric stone slabs.

Ankum is no exception. The Points 9a–f (called the Steingräberweg Giersfeld) are south of town in its Westerholte district. See? Don’t think you’re somewhere else, though, because Westerholte belongs to Ankum (at least politically).

There’s another interesting one north of town, Stop 10a (the Großsteingrab Restrup & Näpfchenstein) between Ankum and Bippen.

These monstrous rocks date back to around 2800 B.C. Yup, that’s like almost 5,000 years ago.

Before advancing on the Route of Megalithic Culture, you got other sightseeing in Ankum to do. One stop should be the Artländer Cathedral, or officially known as the St. Nicholas Parish Church. Its origins date to the year 1100, while its cross wasn’t added for almost two hundred years. Most impressive is its 80-meter high tower.

Wow, they sure knew how to build tall things back then, didn’t they?

Medieval architects also knew how to build monasteries. So, while you’re here, head to the Kloster Bersenbrück (technically in the town of Bersenbrück, but these beauties belong to everyone now). It was of the Cistercian Order when it was commissioned by Count Otto and Countess Sophia von Ravensberg in 1231.

The six kilometers between Ankum and Bernsenbrück afford you plenty of time to see the countryside. But, all the fishing, mountainbiking, golfing, and horseback riding give you lots of time to enjoy the countryside. ;-)

As will any time you spend at the Alfsee (south of Alfhausen), where you’re adding waterskiing, sailing, paddleboating, and windsurfing to the mix of outdoor recreational activities. If you don’t feel like leaving, all you gotta do is pay to spend the night at the Alfsee Beach Camp that offer basic “houses” for up to 18 people.

Now that you know that Ankum is on the Route of Megalithic Culture and are eager to explore some, or all, of the other stops, you might get the “inspiring” task of figuring out the sleeping arrangements for you and seventeen of your closest friends? Gladly, MyGermanCity.com got you covered in the hotels in Germany department, as well. :-)

Königsbronn — Pretty And Festive In The Swabian Alb

October 11th, 2011

If Königsbronn’s Rathaus (Town Hall) alone is any indication of what you’d expect around this town in the Swabian Alb in Baden-Württemberg, then bring it on.

I just can’t stop saying, “It’s just so pretty.”

The Rathaus is a mid-18th century Rococo design, with a Baroque facade with quaint flowerboxes framing the windows. This landmark building has been everything from someone’s house (lucky ducks!), a guesthouse, a hunting lodge, and a candle factory (that one seems a bit strange, huh).

Anyway, you’ll want to see its Prince’s Room for its gorgeous painted ceilings and stucco artwork. See, pretty. ;-)

Not much of the the Kloster Königsbronn stands, but that’s pretty too. The original monastery was of the Cistercian Order, then becoming a Benedictine one between the years it was open from 1302 to 1553. The Gatehouse is a museum, and the monastic church is now a venue for concerts.

Look sharp, you’ll find the walls and trenches of the 11th century Castle Herwartstein—eventually sold to the monastery.

One piece of German history that can’t be “prettied up” is found at the Georg Elser Memorial. Mr. Elser was convicted of assassination of Adolf Hitler on November 8, 1939. The memorial museum (located at Herwartsstrasse 2) even displays the interrogation records that the Nazis kept on his arrest. This museum is a memorial to all those who resisted the Third Reich.

A different kind of pretty is the Itzelberger See lake. It’s not a swimming kind of lake, more of the marshy, bird sanctuary, let’s go fishing variety. For those looking to stay outdoors, follow the Karstquellen Wanderweg that educates you about the watershed area along 15 stations.

After all that walking the Kneipp freshwater spring will help restore some relief to your achy feet. The surrounding hills of the Swabian Alb are so worth the pain. ;-)

Rest up, because if you’re in Königsbronn for one of its festivals, you’ll be partying pretty hard. The Autumn and early are the busiest time with the Brenztopfest in early October, the Fall Festival a few weeks later, the Autumn Celebration is around the same time, followed by the Nicholas Market (in early December), and all the Christmas Celebrations (including candlelight concerts).

Great, now I can’t stop saying “It’s so pretty and festive.”

Illingen (Württemberg) — Pretty Wineries In The Swabian Tuscany

October 10th, 2011

If you’ve come to this page thinking “how could the town of Illingen in Württemberg impress me,” I’ll let you in on a little secret: wine.

Illingen lies in a fantastic wine-making region locally known as the “Swabian Tuscany,” bordering the famously known town of Maulbronn.

Before I get all giddy over the vino, you may want to first take a day tour to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Maulbronn Monastery.

Kloster Maulbronn is thought to be one of the best preserved medieval monasteries (anywhere); and it’s where you’ll see a seminary, a chapel, an infirmary, bakery, and mill that kept monks from the Middle Ages quite busy. Its Paradise (from the 16th century) is strikingly beautiful.

Religious as a life that monks lived, they appreciated a good wine. So, in their honor come back to Illingen and take a tour around the many wineries around town.

For example, the Weingut Häge proudly offers wine tastings and tours, a Culinary Wine Tasting that pairs the best of their wines with the best of German cuisine.

If you’ve had a bit too much, it’s not a problem over at Weingut Zai, a most romantic vineyard (whose fields stretch all the way to the Kloster Maulbronn) with two apartments for overnight accommodations. The views overlooking all the grapes are heavenly and well worth the money.

Even if you don’t stay the night, you’ll want to at least stay for one of their wine-themed dinners.

Want something historical? Sure. Located at Mühlstrasse 1 (how fitting), the historical Ölmühle (Oil Mill) from 1904 is still in operation and provides guided tours and programs showing how oil has been made in the past.

Hopefully you’ll make it for the Village & Wine Festival on the last weekend of June every year, too. Wine makes a good gift, so buy yourself and your loved ones a nice bottle there or at the Christmas Market in December, OK?

If you’d like to buy one of Illingen’s timber-framed houses, one of the oldest is the Posthof. Built in 1583, it was (as its name suggests) a former post office.

You impressed yet? I know I am. ;-)

Müncheberg — Founded By Monks, Rebuilt Time And Again

October 10th, 2011

I’d wager that the monks who founded the town of Müncheberg in 1232 would be proud of their little hamlet. For a while, Müncheberg had it a bit rough, with wars and plague epidemics throughout the subsequent centuries.

But thanks to modern medicine and no warfare for almost a century (the Soviet occupation ended more than two decades ago too), Müncheberg gets to enjoy a Renaissance of sorts. Good thing, because just about 85% of the town was destroyed during World War II in the course of only 2 days.

Along the many hiking trails in Müncheberg there are a couple of War Memorials and War Cemeteries. While it might sound a bit morbid, cemeteries and the like are considered “parks” in Germany—albeit for more quiet pursuits like reading.

One building destroyed during the bombings was the St. Mary Parish Church, a medieval Gothic structure that was rebuilt after the war.

While I might be a sucker for history, I’m a bigger sucker for castles. So, I have to stop at the 12th century Trebnitz Castle. This place has seen plenty over the centuries—and has been a hospital and community center.

Another Schloss is the Johnsfelde Castle, where the castle church from the 13th century is the real show-stealer. Also from the pages of Müncheberg’s medieval history are the Storchenturm (Stork Tower) and the Pulverturm (Powder Tower), the latter was used as a prison.

My personal favorite is the tiny, squat stone chapel in the village of Münchehofe. Its diminutive size is all part of its rustic charm.

Müncheberg might have been founded by Cistercian monks, but it did have an active Jewish community at one time, even having its own synagogue as far back as the 18th century. The building isn’t a place of worship any longer, but there is a memorial plaque to Müncheberg’s former Jewish residents.

It’s easy to see why the monks of Müncheberg loved being here so much, the surrounding countryside in this part of Brandenburg is stunning.

I think I’m going to go find me one of the nearby lakes and chill out. :-)

Schmalenberg — Among Palatinate’s Most Beautiful Villages

October 10th, 2011

The family of Nelson, a frequent MyGermanCity.com visitor, came from the village of Schmalenberg in the Südwestpfalz district of the Rhineland-Palatinate. But, one thing is different today than when Nelson’s family left Germany, awash with the effects of being a war-torn country.

Nelson, your grandfather might be happy to know that his boyhood home won the Unser Dorf soll Schöner werden competition, or the Our Village Should Become More Beautiful competition, back in 1981.

This might not sound like much, but the contest is open to all villages in Germany with less than 3,000 inhabitants—and there are thousands of them throughout the country, all of which would be proud to receive this award.

A high honor, indeed—wouldn’t you say?

Sightseeing around Schmalenberg is limited to the half-timbered bake house from the 19th century (located at Hauptstrasse 22), and the 19th century schoolhouse right down the block at Hauptstrasse 47.

Over at Kirchgasse 3 is Schmalenberg’s Evangelical Church (built in the 12th century) and its War Memorial that doesn’t look like a typical monument. It’s a unique sculpture of a saddened woman—and a quiet place of reflection on the reasons why families like Nelson’s left the only homes they knew.

Also worth photographing is the old Wasserturm (Water Tower) on Kirchgasse 13.

Nowadays, Schmalenberg is part of the Collective Municipality of Waldfischbach-Burglaben (which include the other villages of Geiselsberg, Heltersberg, Hermersberg, Höheinöd, Horbach, Steinalben, and Waldfischbach-Burglaben proper). In this area, you’ll find a Local History Museum, the medieval church of St. Peter, and a bunch of recreational activities to keep you busy for quite a long while.

What kind of recreational fun? Glad you asked, because if you like hiking and cycling, golfing and mountainbiking, Nordic Walking and Outlet Store shopping (yes, that counts as a sport in some circles) then these villages will be a big hit. You can even take guided horse rides through the Palatinate Forest Nature Park, or just as easy explore it on your own.

Once you’re back in Schmalenberg and are hungry after a festival, there’s the fun Quackfest parade going on every year at Pentecost.

All in all, this might not be the Schmalenberg that Nelson’s family left behind, but the spirit of those who once lived, walked, played, prayed, and worked here won’t ever be forgotten.

German Cabbage Route — 80 Million Heads Lead Us

October 9th, 2011

I’m convinced the only thing Germans love more than order and sports, are vegetables. Really. Where else will you find specific scenic routes dedicated entirely to veggies?

Come with me along the 130 km (81 mi) of the Deutsche Kohlstrasse, or what you’ll come to know as the German Cabbage Route.

Believe it or not, more than 80 million heads of cabbage (not all of it turned into sauerkraut, BTW) are harvested in the Dithmarschen District of Schleswig-Holstein every year, and is the largest cabbage growing region in the whole of Europe. So, a right fittin’ place to make this scenic route in Germany.

Maybe we should call it a culinary route?

Nevermind, doesn’t matter. ;-)

Start of the German Cabbage Route

Our route starts in the town of Brunsbüttel, along the North Sea Cycle Route. Sure, this is where the Kiel Canal meets up with the Elbe, but it’s also always a venue for the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, has romantic lighthouses, and farms that grow cabbage as far as the eye can see.

Every year during the region’s Cabbage Days (September), rides around many of the farms are offered, but you’re always welcome to at Denkers Landcafé (at Groden 14), that’ll give you one just about anytime of the year.

We’re off to a good start, aren’t we?

The next town, or should I say village, is Neufeld. This hamlet has charming thatched roof cottages (don’t you just love them?), an old windmill, and more cabbage farms, like Gemüsehof Peters (Niendieker Strot 47). Their farm shop is filled with all sorts of fresh produce.

No, you can’t eat yet—we have a way to go first. ;-)

Neufelderkoog, a village of salt marshes along the North Sea, has also got cabbage growing farms. The Bauernhof Krey (at Haus Nr. 21) is just one of ’em.

Sure this is the German Cabbage Route, but in the village of Kaiser-Wilhelm-Koog the farms are also known for growing carrots and sugar beets. The Ferienhof Brandt (at Schulstraße 4) goes a step further with adding wheat, pigs, cats, dogs, sheep, and even ponies for the true farm experience.

Bicycle riders rejoice, as the land of Kaiser-Wilhelm-Koog is totally flat—and just west of the Wadden Sea, in case you want to ride over there.

Tired yet? Good thing our next town, Friedrichskoog, has a wellness center (the Fontamar Spa at Schulstraße West 14) for some R&R. It’s also got a Port, an windmill, a playground for the kiddies, salt marshes, and more cabbage at the Hofladen Schoof on Andreßenweg 1 or Hof Bock at Koogstr. 31.

OK, you can eat now—try something known as Grünkohl and Pinkel, a dish made with cabbage (of course!), wurst, ham, and potatoes.

The next village on the German Cabbage Route is Kronprinzenkoog. Visit the Bauernhof Ufen (Friedrichsköger Str. 8) on Tuesdays from 9am to noon for a look into cabbage farming. It’s also the location for the annual Strawberry Harvest in June.

I know strawberries have nothing to do with cabbage, but it’s still good to know. ;-)

For cabbage and pony rides it’ll be the Ferienbauernhof Claußen you want. You’ll find this quaint farm at Mitteldeichsweg 3, if you’re so in inclined.

Marne is a charming town, and its Stadtfest (City Festival) coincides with the Cabbage Days (usually towards the end of September). Here you’ll find bakeries making Kohlbrot (yes, cabbage bread!) at places like the Kalle-Bäcker on the Feldstraße, and judges deciding who will be this year’s Cabbage Queen.

Oh, it’s time to do some mudflat hiking (again). You can do it in the village of Elpersbüttel, as well as windsurfing, biking around the North Sea Cycle Route, and visiting the petting zoo (Apr-Oct) at the Hof Husemann at Lütjenbüttel 4. Oh, and eat yourself silly on all the locally grown cabbage.

One of the most interesting ways to eat cabbage lies in the next town of Meldorf. There’s an “ice cafe” where some of the flavors on the menu are cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower.

Not for you? It’s alright… Take a guided bicycle route around the farms (May-Oct), visit the Agriculture Museum and Dithmarscher Bauernhaus at Jungfernstieg 4, or the cathedral instead.

In Wesselburen there’s a farmer’s market held at the Kohlosseum (ha, I wonder who came up with that name) at Bahnhofstr. 22. During the summer it’s held on Tuesdays & Thursdays; while only on Wednesdays in the winter.

Schülp, while on the German Cabbage Route, is known as a Flower Village. Not only are 10 million heads of the cabbage grown here annually from April to June, but it also chooses an annual Tulip Queen (what is this the Netherlands? ;-).

The Gärtnerei H. Diener & Sohn Nursery (Schülper Chaussee 10) gets in on the flower (early Spring) and cabbage growing (April to June) fun. Heinz and his son, Olaf, will be more than happy to show you around; you just better make it on a Friday when they offer guided tours.

Our second to last stop on the German Cabbage Route, Wesselburenerkoog, is quite small with only a bit more than 100 residents. Go see the Hofladen Wilkens and the Koog Café (Dammstr. 20) where you’ll get fresh veggies, fruit, and cheese; and walk around the dykes that keep back the storm surges that are common in the Fall.

Last, but by no means least, is Büsum. Check this out: this spa town has treatments using all sorts of cabbage remedies at the Vitamaris Büsum (its address is Südstrand 5, which translates to South Beach—like it’s in Miami or something); and the cafe at the Windpark serves up all kinds of regional cabbage specialties. This is why it deserves to be on the German Cabbage Route, right?

It’s also got a large port, a lighthouse, a Harbor Museum, and lies along the Wadden Sea National Park. Yeah, time to go mudflat hiking again—or at least I can once the tide goes out. In the meantime, I guess I’ll have to just eat more cabbage. Good thing I’m in the right place. ;-)

German Cabbage Route Web Site

Want more info? Visit the Web site dedicated to the German Cabbage Route.

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