If you wished to buy yourself a royal German title, you might think where else better for a Graf & Gräfin (Count & Countess) to stay than in a castle?

Since buying one of these is outta the question for the time being, the next best thing is to stay in one that’s been converted into a hotel. The town of Kremmen has one, and it’s more than 700 years old.

Thankfully Castle Ziethen doesn’t have 14th century plumbing. ;-)

If you’ve chosen not to stay at the castle, you can always come for one of its musical concerts or to see the storks that have decided to call the schloss home.

Even older than the castle is Kremmen’s St. Nicholas Church. While it was built in 1200 A.D., it had Baroque accents added a few centuries later. Aah, the best of both time periods, wouldn’t you say?

Some things don’t have to be a grandiose affair to be special. You’ll find that in Kremmen’s village churches, like the one in the villages of Beetz and Staffelde, and the village Church in Sommerfeld. The latter being totally pillaged during the Thirty Years’ War, and totally destroying the village itself in the process.

When war wasn’t ravishing the countryside, Kremmen has been a quiet agricultural town. The Barn Museum touches on the town’s farming history with exhibits donated by its residents. You’ll even see an old-fashioned washing machine, ironing press, and kitchen appliances.

Sure do appreciate all the modern conveniences after a gander at these. ;-)

In keeping with the industry of Kremmen on Saturdays (from 11am-5pm) you can see the inner workings of the Windmill Vehlefanz — otherwise you’ll only get photos of the outside.

Being outside here isn’t a bad thing. The Kremmer See is wonderful for a day of swimming or boating, and even just walking around one of the trails leading off from the lake.

A most wonderful way to spend a day of leisure for a Count and Countess, wouldn’t you say?

In English the coastal town of Kühlungsborn in northern Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania doesn’t sound very, um, what’s the word? Beach-like? Yeah, I’d say it doesn’t sound very beachy.

It is, however. And what a beachside resort this place is. Interestingly enough, the average weather doesn’t appear to be very beach-like either. Average temperatures in August are only around 20°C/69°F in the daytime, dropping to around 15°C/59°F at night.

Don’t roll your eyes, since when was Germany ever known as a popuar tropics kind of destination? ;-) Also, this is likely on purpose as the “Kühlung” in the town’s name translates to “Cooling.” Aah, gotcha!

I’m guessing this is why those strandkorbs are so popular here. A strandkorb is one of those awesome stripped chairs that dot the beach, perfect for giving you shade from the sun or the Baltic Sea winds. They’re not free, you do have to rent them (though, rest assured, that won’t break the bank).

Just because Kühlungsborn doesn’t have a beachy name, doesn’t mean you’re not going to love the beach atmosphere. This is one of the oldest seaside towns in Mecklenburg, and you’ll find the longest beach promenade — traveling along for some 3,200 meters. Plus there’s a 240-meter pier stretching out over the water, and a marina where you’re able to dock your boat.

Hmm, that’s a workout without adding all the golfing, volleyball, jogging, horseback riding, soccer playing, tennis, and swimming into the mix. One of the prettiest activities is taking a bicycle ride around the Baltic Sea, but also deeper inland passing fields of sunflowers.

Tired isn’t the word for it — I’m guessing a massage would be ideal right about now. Good thing there are spas for a spectacularly sinful session of the deep tissue variety. ;-)

And another thing: Kühlungsborn might be a seaside resort, but this is Germany. You gotta see where I’m going with this, right?

Yes, that means it has history.

The Church of St. John is one of the oldest, as it’s a Gothic church from the 13th century. Another historical site is the Molli Train, which goes from Bad Doberan to Heiligendamm. To learn more about its history it’s a trip to the Local History Museum (open Tuesday–Saturday). The Brunshövener Mill is a romantic place to stop, in case you’re interested.

Despite not having a seaside kind of name, as you can see Kühlungsborn is a top notch beachside place — right within the “German tropics.” ;-)

If you’re on a hunt for some of the best of Germany’s castles then do I have a scenic route for you. The little known Thuringian Castle Road, or Burgenstrasse Thüringen in German, is a monster of a route, going 900km (559mi) through the state of Thuringia, and even a tad bit into Bavaria — but more on that later.

With a distance of that long, you’d think that you’re going to see dozens of castles along the way. Uh, no. There are only a dozen, but what whoppers they are.

So, shall we get started? :-)

Start of the Thuringian Castle Road

The Thuringian Castle Road kicks off at the grandest of castles, Wartburg Castle. If you know anything about Martin Luther then you’ve had to have heard about this formidable Burg overlooking the city of Eisenach. He translated the bible into German here in the 16th century, and the Luther Room looks pretty much like it did in his time.

Another famous resident was St. Elisabeth of Hungary. She was married to Ludwig II (the Duke, not the Mad King of Bavaria) during the 13th century, and after his death she dedicated her life to the poor.

Wartburg Castle is breathtaking from a distance, and just as much close up. It’s constructed of stone and half-timbered design — but I like the climbing ivy going up the South Tower and its wooden steps. It’s like stepping back in time.

Just to the north of the Thuringian Forest is classy Weimar, a town that gave its name to the Weimar Republic.

Its Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, but the reason you find it on the Thuringian Castle Road is its Royal Palace and Bastille. The palace houses an extensive art collection (from the Middle Ages to the turn of the 20th century), and guided tours are available for only a few Euros.

Stay in Weimar long enough to see the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul with artwork designed by Lucas Cranach the Elder and Younger — both friends and supporters of Martin Luther. Plus, there’s a 3-day Onion Market every October that’s been going on every year since 1653.

Where to go next?

Bavaria (just a bit).

Coburg once belonged to Thuringia (until around 1920), and it was the boyhood home of the husband of Prince Albert — husband to England’s Queen Victoria. He was born at Schloss Rosenau, but the place that warrants a listing on the Thuringian Castle Road?

That honor belongs to the grand Veste Coburg, a medieval fortress that gave Martin Luther refuge. The Luther Chapel was redesigned in the 19th century, but the original one was done in a Romanesque design. St. Elisabeth also lived here; and it’ll be hard to figure out whether the castle’s prettier in the daytime or all lit up at night.

I think it looks best on a grey, cloudy, dreary snow-covered day — but that’s my opinion. ;-)

All right, let’s head straight back to Thuringia.

Another one of St. Elisabeth’s castles (her son was born here) makes its appearance on this Thuringian Castle Road, Burg Creuzburg. The castle was built in 1165, much later than its Carolingian roots and over a former monastery. One of the most interesting pieces is the castle’s 17th century Saxon cannon.

The town of Creuzburg is small, barely 2,400 people — so it won’t be crowded while you’re sightseeing at the 13th century Nikolai Church.

Drei Gleichen is not much bigger, but it has three castles to add to the Thuringian Castle Road. Located near Gotha, Drei Gleichen has a trail that connects all three of the castles — named for Gustav Freytag who made the Mülburg Castle famous.

Mühlburg is the oldest of the three, built in the very early 8th century. It even had a moat despite being a hilltop castle, and I’m sorry to say that only its keep and walls remain. Although there is now a restaurant and Pottery Museum located there now too.

Burg Gleichen is also a ruin, and the first thing you might notice is its keep. The view from this early 11th century castle is splendid, but you might want to find the medieval stone crosses from a much closer distance.

Wachsenburg is the middle brother in terms of age of these castles, built in 930AD. This castle isn’t a ruin, and houses a restaurant, hotel, and museum (with a huge military war collection).

Veste Heldburg (in Bad Colberg-Heldburg) is unique in that it was built atop a volcano. Crazy considering it was the Thirty Years’ War that did the most damage to this 12th/13th century edifice. It was totally reconstructed, and has been used as a children’s home and a courthouse during its time belonging to East Germany.

Heldburg itself is nice to see, not just for its castle alone. It’s part of Bad Colberg so there’s a spa in tow — and its City Church, Rathaus, and Untertor make great photos.

Wasserburg Kapellendorf might not be the oldest castle (built around 1000/1050AD) on the route, but it is one of the biggest. From its name you can tell it has a moat, and you’re welcome to come for a tour of its kitchen and donjon, as well as see its outer wall. The grounds, however, are free to roam around if you’re so inclined.

After a tour around the castle, you should see the town’s church (i.e., in Kapellendorf) — it’s one of the oldest in the federal state, built around 800 A.D. It was also the location of the last battle of the Franco-Prussian War.

In Kühndorf, the Johanniterburg once belonged to the Knights Hospitallers, who built a castle in 1315 atop an even older original one. What makes this castle totally remarkable (besides being owned by the Knights of the Order of St. John, the Duke of Saxony, and then by Prussia) was it had no military purpose whatsoever.

Yeah, go figure — a castle that wasn’t built for its military strength. Today the castle is privately owned, and is used for a number of celebrations — including a huge festival every year at Pentecost.

Reichsburg Kyffhausen, located in (or near) the spa town of Bad Frankenhausen, used to be an Imperial Castle; now its in ruins. Either way, it had the deepest well of any known castle (176 meters deep), and is so big it was divided into three parts. Prehistoric artifacts have been found here, and the Burg once belonged to the Hohenstaufens — one of the biggest names in German history.

From the castle you can see the Kyffhäuser Monument, a towering structure with figures of both Barbarossa and Kaiser Wilhelm.

Bad Frankenhausen also has a Regional History Museum housed over at Schloss Frankenhausen, a Jewish cemetery, and has a church tower that I think leans more than that famous one in Pisa. ;-)

Kahla is beautiful with its limestone cliffs, but the real winner here is the Leuchtenburg built in 1221 (which is actually in Seitenroda). It is called the “Queen of the Saale Valley,” and it’s now a restaurant and museum — after spending years as a prison. Finish off your day in Kahla with a trip to the City church and walking along the town’s 13th century Stadtmauer.

The Teutonic Knights make an appearance on the Thuringian Castle Road over at the Ordensburg in Liebstedt. Ordensburg was built between the years 900–1000 A.D., and is a lowland castle — meaning it wasn’t built from a high vantage point. It used a wall/trench/moat defense system — but thankfully none of that is needed at the annual Medieval Spectacle at Easter. ;-)

Our last castle is Runneburg in the town of Weißensee. Runneburg wasn’t built until 1168, but it is thought to have been put over what was once a 6th century settlement. In order to see its Romanesque gatehouse and the rest of the castle (that was once home to Emperor Barbarossa’s sister), take a guided tour.

An interesting piece of history comes from Runneburg: a historian found what was a beer purity law from 1434, eighty-two years before the Bavarian Duke issued one (that Germany’s been following ever since).

So, in honor of those who knew what the very best should taste like, I salute you. With a beer, of course. Looks like I’m ending my trip on the Thuringian Castle Road with rustic beer rather than a fine glass of wine — although, with all these castles I forgot to look for a beer garden… ;-)

Thuringian Castle Road Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the Thuringian Castle Road.

Within the German travel industry are travel specialists whose sole job is to design all sorts of touristic and scenic routes in Germany, like the Classics Road, or Klassikerstrasse in German, that runs for 300km/186mi through Thuringia.

Well, whoever put this one together deserves the highest praise and accolades. Hell, I should buy you a glass of wine because this route is awesome.

Start of the Classics Road

Because of its Figure-8 design it doesn’t matter too much where you start, but I’m going to begin in the middle of that figure, in Arnstadt. What better way to start the Classics Road than with a classic castle ruin. Three of them, come to think of it.

The three castles known as Drei Gleichen (fittingly in a town known as Drei Gleichen) also lies on the Thuringian Castle Road. Burg Gleichen might be in ruins, but there’s enough left for a small museum and restaurant at what is a 11th century castle.

You think that’s old? Puhleeze — Castle Gleichen is the youngest of the three castles here. Veste Wachsenburg (in Amt Wachsenburg) is the second-oldest (built in 930) and the only one not in ruins. It’s part hotel, part museum, part restaurant — and all wonderful.

Mühlberg is the oldest of the three, thought to have been built sometime in the early 8th century (yes, that’s the 700s in case you’re wondering). The castle’s got a Pottery Museum and a restaurant for anyone interested.

Arnstadt might be great because of its castles, but it’s also home to the Johann Sebastian Bach Church, named because the man himself played here. Great, classical music to listen to on the Classics Road — I’m starting to get it now… ;-)

Listen to some of his works while you’re on your way to Erfurt, where Martin Luther lived at the Augustinian Monastery. It’s not just a place where the leader of the Protestant Reformation lived as a monk, there’s also a guesthouse here where you can spend the night. Don’t expect 5-star luxury digs, though, accommodations are simple, super-clean, and affordable in the City of Towers & Bridges.

Erfurt is not only a Martin Luther town, but home to the annual Bach Festival every March, the Cathedral Festival in August, and the Krämer Bridge Festival in June.

Gotha with its Schloss Friedenstein is next. This Baroque palace is a piece of art onto itself, but it’s just filled with works from both German and Dutch painters. The Schlosspark is a treat too, perfect for a leisurely stroll to inspire your creative side.

Welcome to Eisenach, home to the narrowest house in Germany (located at Johannisplatz 9), the Bachhaus, the St. George Church, the Luther House, and one of the world’s most magnificent castles. The Wartburg Castle stands watch over Eisenach in all its half-timbered and stone glory.

The Classics Road meets up with the Thuringian Castle Road once again at the gargantuan Wartburg. Not only is it an UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it was the home of St. Elisabeth of Hungary (she was married to a Duke) and for a short time Martin Luther, who translated the bible into Geman in a room that hasn’t changed much over the last 500 years.

The next town of Meiningen was also home to dukes, this time the Dukes of Saxony who lived in Schloss Elizabethenburg. Within the castle’s walls are all sorts of musical manuscripts and artwork ranging from sculptures to paintings.

One of the biggest cultural events in Meiningen is its annual Hütesfest in June/July — it’s a huge food festival so you’ll be eating quite good.

Working off those extra calories will be a breeze as you’ll be walking all around Ilmenau, especially if you’re on a literary pilgrimage to the Goethe House. Goethe’s influence in Ilmenau doesn’t end there, you’ll want to see the Goethe & Glass Museum as well as the Amtshaus, a Baroque building that Goethe used to visit. Sort of, since the original one burned down 90 years after Goethe wrote about it. Oops!

Let’s recap for a minute… So far the Classics Road has given us classical music with Bach; a classic monastery, a classic castle (I guess we can combine that to classic architecture), and a classic writer. Yeah, I’d say the Classics Road was appropriately named, wouldn’t you?

Rudolstadt is next, and where you must see the Klosterruine Paulinzella. It was built more than 800 years ago, and even has a 17th century hunting lodge on its grounds as well as a Monastery Museum.

The Heidecksburg Royal Palace is yet another place you can’t miss. Within this Baroque castle is an extensive art collection and weapons exhibit, but I think its Rococo ballroom is the real winner here. ;-)

We’re almost done, would you believe it? Jena is our second to last town, so if you want to prolong your stay on the Classics Road then take your time at the town’s Botanical Gardens, the Schiller House (he wrote Wallenstein here), and the Dornburg Castles (yes, plural, so there’s more than one).

The Dornburgs are of medieval and Renaissance design, and open to visitors every year from April to October. You’ll be following in the footsteps of Goethe here; he was a big admirer of the Dornburgs. I bet he’d have loved the Pottery Market every June, too.

Our journey on the Classics Road ends in grand Weimar, a town that lent its name to Germany’s Weimar Republic. German Politics aside, Weimar is a cultural jewel at celebrates Goethe’s birthday every year in August, has a Bach Festival every March, an Arts Festival in August, and an Onion Market every October.

The festivals in Weimar are fantastic, as is its sightseeing. You’d be crazy to miss the Royal Palace, the Goethe House, the Schiller House, and the German National Theater.

You’d be even crazier not to see the city’s Church of Sts. Peter & Paul, a church built in 1433. And interestingly enough, was rebuilt in 1953 (even while the area was occupied by the Soviets) because it was flattened during World War II.

It would be the craziest of all to miss seeing Belvedere Castle. Sorry, if you’re looking for a medieval, Frankenstein movie kind of castle, this isn’t it. The Belvedere is a bright yellow Baroque building filled with all sorts of period furniture and pottery. Belvedere’s gardens are extraordinary, as bright as the castle itself I would say.

The Classics Road is inspiring and timeless — and that’s what makes it a classic.

Classics Road Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the Classics Road.

I kinda stumbled upon the new Fantastic Road, or Fantastische Strasse in German, a 400km/248mi scenic route through Baden Württemberg, quite by accident. What it reminded me of was the Classic Road in Thuringia.

No, it isn’t that it’s a copycat, both are in two different federal states after all. No, it just got me to wondering if I was going to find a Terrific Road or I’m-Not-Mediocre Road somewhere.

Yes, I’m only playing around. If I can’t make fun of Germany (having an entire website dedicated to the country) then who can?

There are only nine stops on the Fantastic Road, and before you say “Aw, is that it?”, wait until you’ve heard what the nine are. Patience is a virtue, my Friends. ;-)

Start of the Fantastic Road

It’s Heidelberg that starts the route off. A university town filled with cafes and restaurants, ten museums, countless art galleries, botanical gardens, and a castle.

I say it like Heidelberg Castle is just some ordinary castle, but ain’t nothin’ further from the truth. Heidelberg Castle is actually two castles, both in ruins. Thousands of people flock to the Heidelberg Castle every year to see its blown out turrets, its breathtaking views overlooking the city, and the Goethe Memorial Tablet. Fantastic!

You know where else it is fantastic (help me, I can’t stop saying the word)? Baden-Baden. The Romans knew they found something special here, which is why they built baths over the thermal springs. In addition to the spas, you’ve got a casino to see, and museums to visit (like the City Museum and Faberge Museum), as well as wineries.

Hey, the Fantastic Road doesn’t hook up with the Baden Wine Route in Baden-Baden for nothing, ya know. ;-)

The next stop is Calw, located in the Black Forest Nature Park. Yea, the Schwarzwald. Isn’t this route fantastic?

Anyway, Calw is the hometown of German writer Herman Hesse, and is where you’ll find the Nicholas Chapel (built 1400) deadsmack in the middle of the city’s bridge. I wouldn’t skip town before you’ve seen the Vischer Palace (built 1791) or the Calwer Schafott, an old execution site. Yeah, it’s a bit morbid — but history is history.

And don’t even think about jumping off here in Calw for the Northern Black Forest Monasteries Route that’ll bring you to Hirsau Abbey — you can come back to do that, because our next stop is…

Stuttgart, home of Mercedes Benz. Heaven for all of you out there in love with the German automobile. OK, it’s got a Palace and the Johannes Church for history lovers, an Opera House for music lovers, and the annual Stuttgart Beer Festival in September for, uh, beer lovers. ;-)

Along the Neckar River is Tübingen, another university town along the Fantastic Road. Don’t worry about it if you’re way past your college days, you’re always welcome at the Collegiate Church (Tübingen’s landmark, BTW) or to stroll along past its many half-timbered houses. Hopefully you’ve managed to time it right to come for the annual Christmas Market or the Afro-Brazilian Festival in July.

Our next stop isn’t a town at all, it’s Burg Hohenzollern. Originally built in 1061, the castle stood until 1423 before it was destroyed. Because of its strategic location, it just had to be rebuilt. Which it was, in 1454. Only to fall yet again, and was in total ruin by the end of the 18th century.

It was the brainchild of Prussian King Frederick William IV, who decided to restore it. Today it’s one of the most amazing Gothic-revival castles in the country (OK, that’s my opinion, but I think you’ll agree), and where you’re able to see its medieval St. Michael Chapel and grab a bit to eat at its restaurant.

Wait! Don’t leave off to the Hohenzollern Route; we’ve got a couple more stops on the Fantastic Road to discover…

Once you’ve managed to climb down from Burg Hohenzollern (no, don’t leave off to the Hohenzollern Route) you’re off to Meersburg. In Meersburg you’ll find a Zeppelin Museum, a Wine Museum, a City Museum, and a Castle Museum. The latter being inside the castle by the sea, Schloss Meersburg. OK, it’s not really a sea… it’s Lake Constance. But it sounded good for a minute there. ;-)

The castle isn’t Meersburg’s only glimpse into its medieval days, look for the Obertor that was once part of its Stadtmauer. What else you’ll want to look for are all the lookout points around the city, and for the half-timbered mill at the Altes Schloss (Old Castle). The mill isn’t the only half-timbered building in town, though, there are lots and lots of ’em.

What else Meersburg has lots of are festivals. The biggest ones are the Lake Wine Festival in September, the Lake Festival, and the Jazz Festival — all in addition to the countless concerts at the palace every March to December.

Our next place is out in Lake Constance itself, the island of Mainau (which is now part of the town of Constance, but more on that in a minute). This is a tropical oasis filled with all sorts of gardens, like to Italian Rose Garden (ahhh, the scent is intoxicating) and the Palace Gardens. A perfect location for the Butterfly House, I would say.

The Castle Church is exquisite with all its Baroque accents (gotta love all the marble and gold), and the German Order Castle is stunning too.

Constance (German: Konstanz) brings us to the end of the Fantastic Road. Too bad, I’m loving it here. I guess I’ll stretch out my stay on this city watching the Rhine flowing into Lake Constance, and take my time to explore the Petershausen Abbey, which was founded in 983. It was used for more than 800 years before being dissolved in 1802. That’s a long history, so how could you possibly rush through something like that?

The medieval abbey isn’t Konstanz’s only reminder of the Middle Ages. Its church has crypts that are over a thousand years old, which doesn’t seem so old when you consider that Konstanz Cathedral was first built around the year 615 A.D.

And the Schnetztor and Rheintorturm are towers that were once part of its defense wall (known as a Stadtmauer). What better way to protect medieval villagers, I ask you. ;-)

I really hope you’ve found the Fantastic Road (called the Fantastische Strasse in German, in case I forgot to tell you), well, really fantastic. And if I find the I’m-Not-Mediocre Road out there in Germany — you’ll be the first to hear about it.

Fantastic Road Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the Fantastic Road.

OK, if you fashion yourself a history buff, there isn’t too much out there that you enjoy better than to sit down with a cup of coffee and discuss the Romans, medieval castles, and even war and politics of yesteryear, right?

Then it’ll utterly impress you to know that a 300,000 (yeah, that’s 6-figures) year old skull was found in the town of Reilingen in 1978. How could it not; that’s time measured in millennia, not centuries.

Thankfully, you have the Bertha Benz Memorial Route, the Baden Asparagus Route, and the Spargel- und Tabaklehrpfad (Asparagus & Tobacco Trail) to distract you. ;-)

The Baden Asparagus Route is a wonderful scenic route centered around the King’s Veggie, finding its way on to a plate near you.

Along the Asparagus & Tobacco Trail, you’ll walk along 5 stations detailing the history of the crops. It starts over by the cemetery, BTW.

For a natural history “tour” follow the Reilinger Eck. Twenty-one stations give you info on the forest itself, its history, and all the plants & animals found within it.

Another route that brings you through Reilingen is the Way of St. James. Pilgrims on this devotional route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain like to get their “passports” stamped — which they’ll happily do for you at the Rathaus.

I don’t know if you’ll be lucky enough to find a 300,000 year old skull along the Nature Trail Reilingen as they did back in the ’70s. But, you could try. If not, just enjoy the walk around one of the nearby lakes.

For a more “modern” history of Reilingen, I’d suggest a visit to the Local History Museum. Which just so happens to be housed in Reilingen’s oldest building: the Zum Löwen, a historic inn from 1435. Today’s building, however, didn’t come along until the 17th century because the French destroyed the original one.

The inn isn’t the only framework house in town, there are a good number of them so keep your camera handy.

And towns this old usually have a long tradition of festivals and fairs, do they not? Um, yes they do. Just like Reilingen’s Spring Festival (which coincides with the Asparagus Festival), the Maypole Festival on April 30th, the Street Festival on the 2nd Saturday of September, the Easter Market, and the Advent Market (one the 2nd weekend of Advent).

While history that spans back 300,000 years might shock you, you can get a grasp on a good time. Can’t you?

The word “international” actually throws me off a bit. Why? Because the International Dollard Route (its official title), merely 204km/127mi long, merely represents the region around the Dollart, a small bay in the northwest of Germany and the north of the Netherlands.

Yup, only two countries, both of which are European, and they call it International.

Either way, this picturesque scenic route is in the heart of East Frisia in northwest Lower Saxony and travels along some pretty places in the Netherlands with educational museums, romantic windmills, and fantastic castles.

There’s some debate as to whether the Dollard Route is 204 or 206 kilometers long, but with a central route that adds two alternate routes it’s kind of easy to get confused. Besides, when you’re bicycling 200km, what’s a couple extra gonna do? ;-)

Oh, didn’t I mention that the Dollard Route was a bicycle route in the first place? Don’t get all excited — the area around East Frisia is like totally flat so there’s no steep grading to navigate.

What’s this Dollard (Dollart in English & German) that I keep mentioning anyway, you ask? Well, that’s the 100 square kilometer Dollart Bay surrounded by salty marshes and amazing local wildlife. Sounds great, doesn’t it?

One of the best things about traveling this bicycle route is that it is totally travel-friendly. Don’t want to schlep your luggage the whole way? No problem, there are tourist programs that’ll bring your suitcases and duffel bags to you. Travel too far to bike your way back? Again, it’s all right — just call for the Bike Taxi (approx 1.80€ per km) and they’ll take you back to wherever you came from.

Start of the Dollard Route

The Dollard Route is circular, so it actually doesn’t matter from which town you start — but I’m kicking it off in the Netherlands. I know I don’t usually put in the towns outside of Germany. However, there are only a couple on the German side of the Dollard Route, so I’ll be nice to our Dutch friends by putting them in. :-)

Slochteren is the first stop with a medieval castle and a Police Hat Museum. Yes, just as fashion has changed for every day people over the years, so too has uniforms (including head gear) of the police.

Traveling towards Appingedam is a real treat — and quite easy since the road is flat as far as the eye can see. This way you won’t be too tired to enjoy the town’s City Museum.

That might be a different story once you’ve arrived in the Dutch town of Delfzijl. The place is still flat, but with all the cycling and walking to see its harbor & port (it’s one of the biggest seaports in the Netherlands), its Aquarium, the medieval churches, and 19th century Water Gate you might be a bit worn out.

Delfzijl also has an interesting pumping station that now does the work of what once took three locks to keep the area dry. If you get a chance stay at the Eemshotel, built right out over the water on stilts — and even has a Turkish steam bath.

From Delfzijl you can take a ferry to Germany, more specifically Emden.

FYI, there is an alternate route that’ll bring you south of the Dollard instead of taking the ferry towards the northeast.

Emden is a remarkable town with a Bunker Museum, three museums totally dedicated to art, a Maritime Museum (what’s a coastal city without one?), Renaissance style houses, a 19th century Windmill, and one of the oldest libraries in all of East Frisia.

This is also where you’ll find the Ostfriesisches Landesmuseum (East Frisian State Museum), filled with all sorts of artifacts from this tea drinking region.

From here we cycle along to the fishing village of Ditzum, which is actually part of Jemgum. You’ll find lots of fishing boats in this hamlet, while there’s a Tile Museum, two Gallery-Dutch windmills (one from the 18th century), a Brick Museum, a Jewish Cemetery, and a nature protected area throughout the other 10 villages that make up Jemgum.

One of the more historical sites in Jemgum is its Liudgeri Church, built in the 9th century by Benedictine monks.

Leer is another town with a multitude of things to do. One being the Tea Museum, proper since East Frisians take tea drinking very seriously — and usually sweetened with Kluntje, a rock candy. The Samson House is a gorgeous example of Baroque architecture, while the inside will show you how typical East Frisian decor looks.

After a stop at the Local History Museum, you’ve got three castles to see. One being the mid-15th century Haneburg, another an 18th century Dutch Baroque known as the Philippsburg, and last being the 17th century Dutch Baroque Evenburg — that even has a moat.

Our next town is Weener, with a population of around 15,000 people spread out over 15 districts. The sites to see in this old port town is the Old Port itself, its Heritage Museum, its musical instruments museum called the Organeum, its 13th century Church of St. George (whose organ is one of the grandest in the area), and the Jewish Cemetery on Graf-Edzard-Strasse.

Where to now? Papenburg, with its Gallery Dutch Windmills and its Gut Altenkamp, a beautiful garden with hedges that are a couple of centuries old. You better come between March and October, as that’s when the Museum Altes Amtshaus (its local history museum) is open.

Not too much left to see along the Dollard Route once you’ve come to Bunde, home to the Dollard Museum (located at Rheiderlandstrasse 3). This museums is one of the best places to learn what the Dollard has to offer — including its legends, animals, constructions of the dykes, and even all about the tulips.

Maybe I should have started my trip here. ;-)

One thing you’ll find in Bunde, as well as a few other places along the way are called Melkhuske. These tiny rest areas are a great place to grab a glass of fresh milk, an ice cream, or some other goodies to nosh on.

The German part of our trip ended here, but with three towns left — why not keep going?

Bad Nieuweschans is pretty small, but it’s a great place to see a glass studio in action, and the Fortress Museum (it’s only open 2 hours a day, Tuesday to Friday). The Bronzegießerei (Bronze Foundry) is both an art gallery & cafe — which makes it the best place to sit for a spell.

Winschoten is where you’ll find the largest rose garden in the Netherlands (as if you couldn’t smell it coming), three windmills, and a 13th century church.

Scheemda’s the last town to see, offering a Baby Carriage Museum and pumping station for the interested traveler.

I enjoyed the Dollard Route so much that maybe I should go back to the beginning and take that other alternate route. Are you up for going around again?

Dollard Route Web Site

Here’s the Web site dedicated to the Dollard Route.

Trivia question time. Do you know why the many sports teams of the Netherlands wear orange? The color doesn’t appear on its flag. Nor, is it known for the citrusy orange fruit.

I’m gonna tell you. It is because of William I of Orange (often called William the Silent), who helped the Dutch gain independence from the Spanish in the 16th century.

William I of Orange? Wait, wasn’t there a William of Orange?

Yes, he was William III — or Wilhelm III as this is Germany we’re talking about.

Uh, no. No it isn’t. You see, William III was the King of England.

Wow, I think I even confused myself on how we got from talking about the Netherlands to the British monarchy, on a Germany website.

Let me go back and explain…

Actually, the mighty Oranier Route would do a much better job than I ever could. Highlighted along 2,400 km (1,491 mi) between the Netherlands and Germany is the history of the Oranges and the Nassau-Oranges — a family dynasty that went on to produce Queens and Kings to the far reaches of Europe, including the modern day ruling family of the Netherlands.

Start of the Oranier Route

The Oranier Route is a circular route that actually starts in Amsterdam, Netherlands. But since we focus on Germany, what about we start off at its twelfth stop, Cleves, or Kleef as it’s known in Dutch?

You might have heard of Anne of Cleves as she is sometimes known. Anne was born here in 1515, going on to become the first German Queen of England when she married Henry VIII.

Visitors to Cleves should also see the Haus Koekkoek, with works of the 19th century painter; the Museum Kurhaus, and the Schwanenburg. A town that produced a queen should have a castle, right? And the Schwanenburg is it.

Moers is our next town, famous for its Miners Lamp, standing 30-meters high. The Moerser Schloss, a 12th century castle built atop volcanic rocks, was the home of Maurice of Orange. The castle was also home to Princess Louise Henriette — the mom to Prussia’s first king by marrying Friedrich Wilhelm of the Hohenzollerns. She also founded the first orphanage in Germany.

After a visit to the castle, check out Moers’s pedestrian zone for some shopping or relaxing at an outdoor cafe.

Sorry, Maurice, it’s time to go. We’re heading to Burg Nassau in the town of Nassau (Lahn). The castle was built before the 12th century, and while it’s now partially in ruins you can eat at the restaurant. Stein’s Castle is also in ruins — but the half-timbered houses and Rathaus are in grand shape.

Diez is one of the oldest towns on the Oranier Route, dating to around 20–12,000 B.C. It has seen Prehistoric Man, Romans, Celts, and a number of others come passing along the way — the Nassau-Oranges too. The 11th century Diez Castle belonged to the Nassau family, and is now a museum on the House of Nassau after being used as a prison for a while.

FYI, Diez received a park known as The Grove, a gift given to the people by Wilhelm I. And the town hosts the Martinsmarkt, a festival going on for 30 years.

Care to live like a knight during the Oranges’ day? You can at the Medieval Joust, held on even numbered years in the summer at Schloss Braunfels. The city of Braunfels has, besides the 13th century fortress-looking castle, plenty of half-timbered houses, a Royal Brewery, a Forest Museum, and City Museum.

Dillenburg‘s contribution to the House of Orange-Nassau is the Wilhelmsturm, a tower housing a museum on the “Family.” Like their part of a Mafiaso film. ;-)

After a stop there, enjoy the hiking trails and all the framework houses since Dillenburg is also on the German Framework Road — plus get to party at the Cherry Market in June.

More museums (Contemporary Art & Regional History) are found in the town of Siegen. Yes, you now left Hesse, entered North Rhine-Westphalia, and are looking over to Rhineland-Palatinate. ;-)

Either way, not only was Siegen ruled by the Orange-Nassaus, but was the birthplace of Peter Paul Reubens. His digs, however, weren’t as grand as the 12th century Upper Castle and 17th century Lower Castle that the Nassaus lived in.

The Counts of Nassau lived in the Freudenberg Castle (built in 1389, destroyed in 1666) — and it also has an Altstadt, half-timbered houses, a 13th century Romanesque Church, and a City Museum too.

Hilchenbach is full of Orange history. William I’s campaign against the Spanish started here at the Ginsburg, where he planned his liberation of the Dutch people. The Ginsburg is in ruins, but its tower is used for cultural events and weddings. The local Stiftskeppel (a Baroque church) was created under the patronage of one of the Orange Counts.

The Baroque city of Bad Arolsen is next. Schloss Arolsen is a Baroque castle, and the Royal Palace holds all sorts of art exhibits. Because of the “Bad” designation, take advantage of the town’s spa treatments.

Then you’ll get to do it again in Bad Pyrmont. Pyrmont Castle is now the City Museum (it was a bit worn for wear during the Thirty Years’ War, but not destroyed), has a Jewish cemetery, and music piped into the streets.

We meet up with the German Framework Road again in the town of Wernigerode in the Harz Mountains of Saxony-Anhalt. Its Neo-Gothic 19th century castle is now a Cultural & Historical Center, but it is the Rathaus (built 1497) that wins Architectural Best-in-Show.

Stolberg’s landmark is its castle, which the Oranges owned in 1542 — and the Zinkhütterhof is an enormous building of industrial, economic, and cultural history.

Dessau-Roßlau doesn’t have castles — it has palaces. The Georgium (named for Johann Georg who married an Orange-Nassau princess) has a stunning art gallery and English-style garden. Luisium Castle too has a museum, if you’re interested.

Don’t be lingering too long, Schloss Oranienbaum awaits. It was the summer home of Princess Henriette Catharina von Orange-Nassau — and its Baroque gardens are heavenly.

Close to Oranienbaum is Wörlitz (well, politics just merged those to into Oranienbaum-Wörlitz), found within the Biosphere Mittelelbe. Yeah, yeah, hiking trails and natural scenery. I guess I shouldn’t be like that — Goethe stayed here, and it has all sorts of festivals like the Spring Awakening, Heritage Day, and Christmas Market.

Potsdam is where the Oranges meet the Prussians. Schloss Sanssouci (one of the most striking Rococo palaces in the world) was home to the King of Prussia (remember, it was an Orange who was the 1st Prussian king’s mom), and the Mediterranean style Orangery Palace was used for foreign royals.

The city of Potsdam is also where you’ll find the Babelsberg Film Studios, where Marlene Dietrich got her start.

Nearby is Oranienburg, meeting up with the German Ceramics Route. It’s where the Baroque palace of Johann Georg II and his wife Henriette Catharina of Orange-Nassau was once used as an SS barracks during WWII, then by the Soviet Army afterwards.

Oranienburg Castle might be beautiful, but compared to Schwerin Castle in Schwerin (our next town), just about any other Burg just pales. Schwerin Castle is the proud seat of the State Parliament, but this 10th century castle is said to be haunted on top of it all.

After playing Ghost Buster, stop at the 13th century Schwerin Cathedral for a wonderful example of Gothic architecture in brick.

We’re meeting up yet again with the German Framework Road in Hitzacker — and the Drawehn. This Lower Saxon town might be well-known for its framework houses, though it also has a number of tumuli (prehistoric graves); plus, they pick a Wine Queen every year at the Grape Harvest.

The journey of the Orange-Nassaus is at an end once you arrive in Lingen. The city itself was once of great strategic importance during the Spanish rule over the Dutch, eventually coming into the rule of the Oranges in the 1630s.

Once the Oranges took over they leveled Lingen Castle, leaving only the Pulverturm (Powder Tower). A strange end to a 13th century castle, don’t you think?

And even though the Oranier Route ends here in Lingen, you don’t have to leave until you’ve partied at the Tower Festival at Pentecost, or the Medieval Market (every three years), also at Pentecost, and the Harbor Festival. A truly romantic thing to do in Lingen is an outdoor skate right outside the Rathaus during the Christmas Market.

Now, that’s not a strange way to end our time on the Oranier Route, that’s for sure. ;-)

I’m not a rocket scientist or anything, but even I’m smart enough to realize that not every single German town is going to be brimming with excitement. Nor will they all be so jam packed with historical old buildings, or find itself on one of Germany’s seemingly endless number of scenic routes.

I’m talking about a place like Baienfurt in Upper Swabia, which is generally more traditional and quiet, but will delightfully surprise you.

Baienfurt is pretty small, just about sixteen square kilometers found 30 km (~40 minutes) to the north of the fabulous Lake Constance. It’s also conveniently located just north of Ravensburg and Weingarten.

I’m sorry to say that Baienfurt doesn’t have any castles, and it doesn’t have any medieval or Baroque churches. But I wouldn’t let something as small as age stop you from coming to Sunday Services at either the Catholic or Evangelical churches.

Seems appropriate as Baienfurt is on the famous Jakobsweg, or Way of St. James — the special pilgrimage route for those on a quest to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

That’s a long walk, so maybe a few hours at the Hallenbad (an indoor pool complex with tanning beds and massage pool areas) is just what you need. Sounds good to me.

Walking towards Spain might not be on the agenda for all of you, so I am going to suggest a hike (or just a brisk walk) over to the Celtic grave mounds.

Not too much walking is necessary during one of Baienfurt’s festivals or markets. OK, maybe some — but with all the food, drinking, and music you’ll hardly notice.

The Rosenmarkt (Rose Market) is for sure a delight to the nose, as well as the eyes; held on the 1st Saturday of June. The Market Square Festival in July is another big-time event in town, as are all the Advent and Christmas concerts in December.

The Speidlerhaus (built 1673) is one venue that always seems to be holding some sort of concert, cabaret, or theater performance — so you don’t always have to wait for a festival of some sort.

Are you delightfully surprised yet? :-)

If you divide the sixty square kilometers of Bergkirchen by its 26 villages you’ll get that each hamlet is (roughly) averaging just over two kilometers square. Scary that I tried to figure that out. ;-)

Regardless of how big each and every village is, Bergkirchen is rustic and quiet. Perfect for enjoying the many bicycle trails and hiking paths that criss-cross the Upper Bavarian countryside.

One particularly beautiful walk is along the Way of the Cross. You’ll find it in the village of Lauterbach, following along Oak Trees that have been here for the better part of three centuries.

Lauterbach is also where you’ll see Bergkirchen’s castle, known as Schloss Lauterbach. Its Renaissance appearance belies its medieval beginnings.

You’ll also won’t want to miss seeing the village’s St. Jacobs Church (built 1707).

Alt Günding has another old shire, known for its medieval St. Vitus Church.

As lovely as these two churches are, neither of them are Bergkirchen’s landmark. That title’s reserved for the Church of St. John the Baptist. This Rococo church’s high altar is splendid in all its marble, gold, and artwork glory.

Being outside is more important to some, so I’m sure you’d rather be at the Eisolzrieder See, a swimming and recreational lake. Near the sports area is the Bergkirchner See, another one of the town’s lakes.

During the winter, nearby ski lifts will give you the ultimate in frosty views from December to February.

Save the warmer weather for theater performances at the Court Theater, housed on an organic farm. Ohhh, good for the brain and the body.

One place you need to see while you’re in Bergkirchen is located just next door in Dachau, the Dachau Concentration Camp. Open from March 1933 to April 1945, the camp was operational the entire time the Third Reich had a fisted grasp on Germany. It’ll take you the better part of half a day to tour, and a guided tour of it really delves into its infamous history.

It’s no good to end a trip on such a note, so afterwards why not sit under the 700 year old Oak in the Castle Park for a spell?

If that’s not a great way to end your journey here, then I don’t know what is. ;-)