There are only four locations on the Sky Paths Scenic Route, or Himmelswege in German, but that’s all it takes for us mere mortals to understand that maybe (just maybe) we’re connected to something bigger than ourselves.

The Sky Paths route is found within Saxony-Anhalt, connecting four towns with each other. The four towns are located within a triangular region, on about 90 km or 56 mi, so it’s not like you’ll get lost while you’re gazing around the stars and planets, the castles and vineyards, or museums and monasteries.

Start of the Sky Paths Route

So, where do we begin now?

Goseck.

With its views of the Saale Region, it might seem like an odd choice to look towards the Heavens (because you won’t be able to take your eyes off the natural landscape) — but Ancient Man did. At Castle Goseck (which was also a monastery at one time) there is a solar observatory that’s two millennia older than England’s Stonehenge.

Yes, that makes it around 7,000 years old.

The observatory isn’t all that was found around here. Archaeologists found also animal and human bones, and Neolithic graves that are thousands of years old.

Doesn’t sound romantic, but Goseck is found on the Romanesque Route, another one of Germany’s scenic routes. What’s not to love about a 9th century castle?

There’s more to see in Halle (Saale), so time to get moving along. C’mon, ’cause it’s not good to stare at the sun too long from Goseck’s solar sundeck. ;-)

Halle. The city of Handel. A city on the Luther Trail. What else more can this fantastic city offer?

Well, how about millions of prehistoric exhibits (artifacts, archaeological finds, cultural history) at the Prehistoric Museum? The amount of knowledge found within the walls of the museum is just astounding—and the reason it’s here on the Sky Path.

As if that’s not enough, the city’s got castles and festivals on top of it all.

I wouldn’t dream of leaving Halle before seeing its historic Marktplatz, or its 10th century Giebichenstein Castle, Moritzburg Castle, Jewish cemetery and synagogue, or party at the Handel Festival in June.

Langeneichstädt, part of Mücheln, is up next; and thank the Heavens (good route we’re on for that, huh?) we only have to enjoy it, not try to say it. From atop Langeneichstädt’s observation tower you’re able to see as far away as Halle (hey, isn’t that where we just came from?).

Before you run off to see the old prehistoric graves, make sure you’ve gotten in a stop at the 8th century Church of St. Wencelas (the building today comes from around the turn of the 11th/12th century), and the 12th century Church of St. Nicholas.

What this town is most famous for is its dolmen goddess. A dolmen, by the way, is the name scientists give to people looking figure that represent a woman. More specifically, the Mother Earth. The 1.76-meter tall figure (made of sandstone) was found in a tomb here in Langeneichstädt. If you went to the National Museum in Halle, you just saw it.

Other tombs from around the same period (2900 – 2500 B.C.) were found, but none had any more “Mother Earth” deities found with them. So, time to leave then. ;-)

Only one more town left on our celestial (and prehistoric) quest of Germany. Nebra. Never heard of Nebra? Let me fill you in.

The city has an entire museum dedicated to the Sky Disk of Nebra; so named because this 30cm, 5,600 year old bronze disc was found near here. This amazing piece of history is decorated with stars, the moon, and the sun—proof that prehistoric man pondered the far reaches of space as much as we do today.

One day isn’t enough to enjoy it all? I’d think so. But not to worry… Nebra’s 15,000 year old Late Palaeolithic campsite has you covered as people settled here for more than 400,000 years.

You can walk in the footsteps of our ancient brethren, follow the hiking trails along the countryside — which even pass by castle ruins, sandstone cliffs, and many a vineyard.

That means we still get to ponder the far reaches of space, time, the Ancients — just that we get to do it over a Riesling. ;-)

Sky Paths Web Site

For more information, feel free to visit the Web site about the newly established Sky Paths (Himmelswege).

Who knew something so poisonous could be so good for you?

Poisonous? A town? Not possible. Unheard of.

No, it isn’t if the town’s name is Schierling, which translates to Hemlock in English.

Didn’t know Hemlock was poisonous?

I digress. Schierling, located right between Landshut and Regensburg in the Upper Palatinate, is officially over a thousand years old, and was once along an old Roman Road.

Schierling has seen its fair share of famous folks too, like Napoleon who came here in the early 19th century.

Today it’s an average Bavarian town, where you’ll find sculpture in the streets and everyday folks going to work. That is, except when there’s a festival going on.

Oh, and are there a lot of ’em…

October is a pretty popular month for festivities, with the annual Flohmarkt (Flea Market) taking place early in the month, the Wine Festival a little later in the month, and hosting a church fair.

November is active too with a number of Advent events (including the obligatory Christkindlmarkt) taking place throughout Schierling’s sixteen villages. They all lead up to the Nikolaus Market in early to mid-December.

Not everyone appreciates a crisp, cold morning. So for those of you who like it warmer, there are festivals to accommodate you too. The Maifest comes along in early May, and there’s a Jahresabschlussfest at the end of June. Although… how come they celebrate the end of the year in the middle of the year?

Want something else still? You gotta wait for the (unspeakable) Gennßhenkerfest, that only takes place every fourth year; but it’s a free-for-all with music, food, and lederhosen.

Wow, at least every July there’s the Margaretenfest and a Pfarrfest (church festival).

Speaking of churches, you can’t have a church festival without one. If you’ve only got time to see a couple, make it the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul—a Catholic church that’s painted the prettiest yellow and has what’s called an “onion dome.”

Or, see the St. Nicholas Church that looks unassuming until you see the inside. It’s beautifully decorated inside with a stunning high altar and a 17th century Madonna.

Did I say Schierling was poisonous? You see, I actually meant a perfect paradise. ;-)

Oh you wonderfully clever Lower Saxons! The good ol’ Germanic tribes came to be the invaders of Britannia in the 5th century A.D. thus changing the political and social landscape of Europe (and eventually the New World) forever.

In the Wittmund District of Lower Saxony (including the East Frisian Islands) you’ll find the descendents of these ancient “explorers.”

What you’ll also find is the Island of Spiekeroog (one of seven barrier islands) that’s technically inhabited since the Middle ages; if you consider 13 families that made Spiekeroog their home in 1625 inhabited.

Even today Spiekeroog has only approximately 800 residents but 3,500 beds for guests. So it’s quite a popular seaside resort with a few “wellness centers” and many of its visitors like to go “mudflat hiking.”

It’s not too difficult, just a matter of walking on the mud flats during low tide. Don’t go out way too far, because the returning tide is going to be much faster than you.

There’s sightseeing to be done inasmuch as lounging on the shores of the North Sea all day.

The Old Island Church was built in 1696. It’s rumored that the picture of the apostles in the church was from a flagship of the Spanish Armada that was stranded on the island in 1588.

While the Island Museum tells the story of the natural and cultural history of the island, the Shell Museum makes a unique shell exhibit.

Considered now to be a “green” island with many groves of trees, it wasn’t always the case since as back as only the 19th century the landscape was pretty barren. With no cars allowed on the tiny 11 square mile island, it truly is a green island.

All in all, Spiekeroog really has come an exceptionally long way since pirates made the island their “home” in the 14th century.

Come to Spiekeroog and you’ll find yourself sightseeing seaside, Lower Saxon Style!

Did you know Baden-Württemberg is full of history, culture, and German wine? The town of Ehrenkirchen, just 13km south of Freiburg, has no less than eight wineries offering bottles of vino for sale or sample.

Enticed to come here yet? Yeah, I thought you’d see it my way. ;-)

I joke, and good thing Ehrenkirchen doesn’t take itself too seriously. Hey, when a town throws as many festivals and events as this place does isn’t exactly the stuffed-shirt type.

One of the biggest festivals is the Fair & Village Festival in September, and the so-called Dorfhock that’s held every two years. Ehrenkirchen also hosts an annual Horse Procession, a Lawrence Market, a church patronage (August 15th), and on the last weekend of May is the Schloßgrabenhock.

Lovers of grand architecture will appreciate Ehrenkirchen for its French-styled buildings in the village of Scherzingen, built by the folks who came here during the French Revolution. Why not, considering Ehrenkirchen sits close to the French border.

You’ll also find a couple of Baroque churches, like the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption. To fully appreciate the Baroque, go see the birthplace of Johann Christian Wentz Festinger. He was born here in 1710, going on to become one of the most noted names in Baroque and Rococo art. One of his most noted pieces was the arch he designed for Marie Antoinette.

As if walking around to all the wineries and historical buildings isn’t enough, you still got to see the countryside. The Teufelsküche (or Devil’s Kitchen) are limestone Stone Age caves (well, they’re part man/part naturally made) from around 35,000 years ago.

Look around, you’ll even find Alemannic graves that are by the Hohebannstein, a landmark that borders the Hohfirstwald. If you’re worried about getting lost in the forest, don’t sweat—guided hikes are available. If you’d rather explore on your own, there are 10 marked hiking trails for you to find your way.

Just don’t hit the wineries before you go do that, OK?

With thousands of towns and villages in Germany, I couldn’t possibly begin to know everything there is about it. And it always surprises myself when I find little facts and tidbits about a town that I wouldn’t have seen coming. What is it this time around?

Today it’s lovely Glashütte in the Ore Mountains in Saxony.

While other regions in Germany are famous for clocks and clock making, who would have guessed that for more than a century almost the same thing was going on in the east of the country? The Uhrenmuseum (Watch Museum), located at Schillerstraße 3a in Glashütte, details a lot of the history surrounding the trade.

Mining was big business here too, but there isn’t a mining museum. Too bad.

What is here are castles. Big, massive, “Oh-thank-Heaven-I-don’t-have-to-clean-these-monster” castles. Schloss Reinhardtsgrimma is the closest and the youngest, having been built in 1767. It’s now a Baroque venue for weddings, concerts, and lounging around in its park.

Want another one? Schloss Lauenstein is more than 750 years old, and is now a museum. Less than a century younger is Schloss Weesenstein, with a museum of Saxony’s history. Oh, forget that, it’s got a restaurant and brewery. ;-)

Glashütte also has old churches, like the Evangelical in Reinhardtsgrimma whose 30 meter high tower can be seen from quite a distance. Architecture aficionados will appreciate the Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque accents, while music lovers will want to hear the concerts that often play here.

Nature lovers, I would never leave you out. As I mentioned earlier, Glashütte lies within the Ore Mountains, which explains why its swimming season is so short (June-August); but that still leaves plenty of time to go horseback riding, bicycling, and hiking. Or, for visiting the Wildpark Osterzgebirge for that matter.

Maybe you’re a Party Animal? I won’t judge, I’ll just tell you to come in mid-September for the Dorffest (Village Festival). ;-)

Wow, in no time at all we’ve covered museums, castles, nature, and festivals—now if I only knew what time it was. Oh yeah, forgot, I’m in a watch making town. Perhaps I should go get one. ;-)

Welcome to Gundelsheim am Neckar, a place of history and culture of Transylvannia. Yeah, like Dracula’s Transylvania.

Uhh, you mean we’re not in Baden-Württemberg? Did someone take a wrong turn somewhere on the map?

Ha, just messing around—of course you’re in Baden-Württemberg. But, I’m not kidding when I tell you that you’ll find history about the land of Vlad the Impaler here.

A few hundred years ago there was a huge German population in Transylvania, now part of modern-day Romania. This history is highlighted in the Castle Horneck, which is where you’ll find the Transylvania Museum. No vampires, I promise.

Castle Horneck is an interesting piece of German history in itself. Built sometime in the 12th century, it came to be owned by the Teutonic Knights around 1420, and was destroyed during the Peasant’s War in 1525. It was rebuilt a few years later, only to be looted during the 17th century Thirty Years’ War.

Forget history for a minute, its ceiling frescoes are absolutely beautiful.

OK, we’re back on the history thing again because Gundelsheim’s St. Nicholas Church also belonged to the Teutonic Knights (it was their hospital church), as did the Pharmacy.

Close to the Pharmacy (built 16th century) is Gundelsheim’s Rathaus. Look around from here, you’ll find all sorts of half-timbered houses. Aren’t they great?

Want to stay in one? Try the Gasthaus zum Lamm, a half-timbered guesthouse built in 1607. Oh, it’s so pretty and historic.

Sure is a lot of history in one place, isn’t it? Might be why Gundelsheim holds an Altstadt (Old Town) Festival every year.

There’s more to it than that, ya know. Gundelsheim sits on the Neckar River, just along the Odenwald—so you’ve got it made if you’re looking to do some hiking. With every step think about how the Celts, Romans, and Alemannic people walked the same trails.

Leave it to me to find the history in an outdoor activity. I’m just glad I’m still in Germany’s Transylvania; the real one’s got vampires (or so I’ve heard). ;-)

Ask a hundred people the first thing that comes to mind about Bavaria, and chances are you’ll get the German Alps as an answer around 90% of the time (in conjunction with German beer, of course).

When you’ve got an amazing view like the Bavarian town of Oberstaufen, it’s no wonder how this majestic mountain range manages to be etched in our minds forever, and how the town managed to become part of the breathtaking German Alpine Road.

With this Alpine landscape you know you’ll be in for a treat for those willing to go out and hike or ski around the area. Don’t go too far, though; Oberstaufen lies on the border of Austria. ;-)

Anyway, back to hiking.

As I said, since you’re in a mountainous region, this isn’t an easy flat surface. But, if you manage to hike your way to the Burgruine Thurn (a 13th century castle ruin) the views from 883 meters above sea level are incredibly rewarding (there are over 50km of hiking trails in Oberstaufen).

Maybe this is why so many people come to Oberstaufen to ski (the views from the top are astounding). There are certainly enough places to do it, as there are more than 40km of slopes. You can even go snowshoe hiking in the winter, as well as cross country skiing and tobogganing.

Aww, it’s a winter wonderland.

One of the most exciting events in Oberstaufen is a winter activity. The Winter Triathalon isn’t for the weak, that’s for sure. It’s a 5km run, an 8km cross country skiing, and 5km run that takes place every February.

So does the Fasnatziestag, an annual Carnival season event on Shrove Tuesday.

Not everyone appreciates the cold weather, though, so when warmer weather activities are what you’re looking, Oberstaufen can accommodate. There are 12 tennis courts, two 18-hole golf courses, and hiking in the Nagelfluhkette Nature Park that stretches from the Allgäu to the Voralberg in Austria.

Over in the village of Steibis (one of Oberstaufen’s seven villages) there’s a Yew tree that’s more than 600 years old, a bunch of dairy farms, and Nordic Walking trails. See, here are even more warm weather activities, in case you’re interested.

And yet, it is the Alps that are etched in your mind forever. ;-)

To the west of Tecklenburg in North Rhine-Westphalia you’ll find a small town of Saerbeck. The region was once lorded over by that vertically-challenged Frenchman, Napoleon Bonaparte; but has always retained its distinct German flavor.

One of the oldest sites in Saerbeck is the Parish Church of St. George. Well, it would have been had it not been remodeled in a Gothic style building in the 16th century (it was originally Romanesque built in 1161), and totally rebuilt in 1896. Tucked away within its walls is a Baroque Pieta and a 13th century baptismal font, surrounded by the most exquisite stained glass.

Would you believe that the Bronze Age and Iron Age grave field isn’t even the oldest site in Saerbeck? Nope, that would be the Ice Age artifacts found nearby; which are on display at the Heritage House — Saerbeck’s Local History Museum.

Another museum is the Distillery Museum, created from the grain distillery used from the early 19th century up until 1976.

I’ve kept you indoors long enough, time to head outside for a while. Over in the village of Sinningen there’s an old Windmill (always quaint, don’t ya think), and a swimming lake that’s open from May to the end of August. It’s not an expensive venture, kids under six are free with adults only paying a couple of Euros.

FYI, if you’re going to be here for any length of time, get a season pass for the lake — it’s most cost effective.

The kids will love the Tierpark, where you’ll all get to see everything from bison to pigs, chickens to goats, and even peacocks. It’s open almost year-round, but the pony rides for the kids only operate between April and October.

Doesn’t matter, because there are a number of horse farms in the area if you’ve got to have a horse riding experience. A covered wagon ride drawn by horses is also a good idea.

If you’ve somehow managed to do all this and want more, then I’ll suggest heading over to the ruins of Burg Tecklenburg (over in Tecklenburg, that is). All that remains of this medieval castle is its gatehouse and parts of its walls, and is now used as an outdoor theater.

Yeah, I would say Saerbeck’s all German — despite Napoleon’s best efforts. Which is OK by me. ;-)

I hope you don’t make the same mistake I did when you get to the Hessian town of Waldeck. Before you go asking me how I could possibly confuse an entire town, I’ll explain…

One of the town’s attractions is the Church of the Marienthal Monastery, once belonging to the Cistercian Order. But, did you know there was another St. Marienthal Monastery that also belonged to the Cistercian Order?

In order not to confuse the two again, you have to know that this St. Marienthal is known as the Church of Marienthal Monastery Netze. As magnificent as Saxony’s St. Marienthal is, St. Marienthal Netze is a wonderful example of Romanesque architecture that was built in the Middle Ages (its altar is a 14th century masterpiece), and is the final resting place of a number of Waldeck Counts.

There once was a tunnel that led directly to Schloss Waldeck, which is our next place to visit. At least I can’t confuse this with any place else.

Schloss Waldeck is the quintessential medieval castle (no romantic Renaissance or Baroque architecture here) built in the 12th century, that was once used as a women’s prison. Today it’s a museum and a restaurant — and right by the gates is a reconstructed pillory, so you better behave yourself. ;-)

Throughout the Middle Ages building around Waldeck was done on a grand scale. The St. Nikolaus Church came along in 1290, and the Klinger Kirche was built but is now in ruins.

I would also recommend seeing the 19th century Rathaus, and the Church of St. Boniface which is where the Old Synagogue originally stood in the 1860s.

It’ll be hard not to run off straightaway to the Erdsee and the Naturpark Kellerwald Erdsee. Lake Erdsee is located along some fantastic looking real estate, which you can also see from Waldeck Castle, and is a popular swimming, rowing, SCUBA, and fishing area.

Hiking around the Erdsee is also popular with the Urwaldsteig (68km) and the Kellerwaldsteig (156km) running along its edges. The lake’s also the location for the annual Edersee Triathalon in July.

I’ll take the annual Oktoberfest that takes place every year in early October. Which, by the way, might explain how I got a bit confused in the first place. ;-)

The name of Erndtebrück in southern North Rhine-Westphalia isn’t an easy one to get off tongue if you’re a native English speaker. Yet, that’s not a big deal because you’re here to see the place rather than trying to pronounce it every five minutes. ;-)

The first thing you should know about Erndtebrück is it’s a town of nine villages; and despite many of them originating in the Middle Ages, it doesn’t have a medieval flair like a number of other German towns that have formidable castles and Stadtmauern with defense towers and entry gates.

No, Erndtebrück has a “hamlet” type of vibe instead, but does have quite a few of half-timbered houses in case you’re wondering.

Wait, those framework houses aren’t medieval — so I guess that doesn’t count, or does it? ;-)

A number of Erndtebrück’s villages don’t even have 500 residents. Birkefehl, in fact, has less than 400 people living here — and an Iron Age graveyard.

Oh, I guess parts of Erndtebrück are much older than just the Middle Ages.

The smallest village of Erndtebrück is the shire of Röspe, an area ruled over by the Graf von Wittgenstein at one point. Funny considering Röspe only had seven people living here at one time in history…

It really doesn’t matter that Erndtebrück’s villages aren’t very big — gives you room to move around without being crowded. Imagine how quiet it’ll be while you’re hiking along the Mäanderweg (a 25.4km circular hiking route that starts/ends here), or even just stopping through on the 154km Rothaarsteig.

Either way, the countryside of Erndtebrück is what steals the show with all its meadows, forests, and tiny streams that decorate the landscape. There couldn’t possibly be a prettier place to hike, bike, swim, golf, or ski around here.

Tired? Don’t sweat it, you can stay in little rustic cottages with names like Bear Creek Lodge — barely 100 meters to the entrance to the forest. Or, if something more historical is what you want, I’d suggest the Gingerbread House that’s 170 years old; or the Old Watermill, a half-timbered building built in 1779 that’s now a guesthouse.

At least their names are easy enough to pronounce.

Alright, I translated them for ya… ;-)