Did you know Germany wasn’t always “Germany”?

No, it was once a bunch of different kingdoms (yuck, how sexist — there weren’t any Queendoms) that had to begin and end somewhere. And in relation to the town of Gröditz that’s where the Kingdom of Saxony began, and Prussia ended.

One way to tell that I’m right about this geographical (and political) border is the old Saxon/Prussian border marker. How else where you going to tell? ;-)

There is one piece of history that casts a dark cloud over Gröditz. There was a subcamp of the Flossenburg Concentration Camp here; forcing thousands of slave laborers to work in the Lauchhammer Steel Works.

They are not forgotten.

Along Wainsdorf Straße is a cemetery where some of these unknown laborers were buried, and in town at the Zentraler Denkmalsplatz is a War Memorial. A memorial to the Soviet Army (this was once part of the GDR) is also found in town.

Gröditz did have one ray of hope in the dark, gloomy days World War II and a divided Germany. His name was Siegfried Richter.

Herr Richter was born here in 1922, going on to become exceptionally successful in the furniture business using his money to create jobs and cleaning up the town. One business venture to create jobs was the building of the Hotel Spanischer Hof, a hotel that’s got a whole Spanish theme — offering “Don Quixote” specials and 14th century Spanish armour.

Because of Mr. Richter’s efforts to clean up and improve economic status of his hometown, he was awarded the Order of Merit (in 1997) by the German government.

And while there aren’t many (any, actually) medieval churches in town, I would try to at least see the town’s Evangelical Church (built 1891) while you’re here.

Hopefully, you’ll be lucky enough to arrange your visit during its Spring Celebration, Autumn Festival, or Wine Festival. If not, then shopping around the weekly market (on Mondays) just might have to do.

I’m not sure if all these took place when Gröditz was part of the Kingdom of Saxony, but I do know that they’re pretty happenin’ now that it’s part of Germany.

The ability of a writer to take a real-life story and turn it into a work of fiction is part skill and part art. And one author who managed to do that was Theodor Fontane who loosely spun a tale of a real Baroness from the town of Elbe-Parey into one of the greatest German tales of all time.

The fictional story is Effi Breist, whereas the real story is that of Baroness Elisabeth von Ardenne. The fictional account talks of sex and adultery of a woman married to a man almost 20 years her senior.

The real Baroness, married to a man less than 10 years older, is also awash in scandal and adultery at the dawn of the 20th century.

What’s the point in me bringing all this up?

Simple, because the real Baroness lived here at the Schloss Zerben (in one of Elbe-Parey’s seven villages). The castle is quite graceful, built in a Classicist style of the 19th century. Sorry, no medieval ramparts, Renaissance accents, or ornate Baroque architecture at this schloss.

While you’re here be sure to stop by the Dorfkirche, originally of Romanesque design but updated and remodeled in 1753.

You think you’d be saying goodbye to Baroness Elisabeth von Ardenne, but over at the Baroque Trinity Church (built 1690s), you’ll find the Plotho family crypt.

Oh, did I forget to mention that Elisabeth’s birth name was Elisabeth von Plotho?

We do get to leave the Baroness behind as we make our way to Elbe-Parey’s other villages.

In Bergzow the Village Church might look a bit decrepit, but that’s all part of its 12th century charm. Who cares if its tower looks a bit off, it was destroyed during World War II and again by lightning in the 1960s.

Derben’s also got a Romanesque, medieval church from the 14th century. Right outside is a monument to slave laborers who died here in the 1940s.

Ferchland is one of the oldest villages, dating to around 2,600 B.C. Its more modern sites include a village church and those half-timbered houses that Germany’s so famous for.

It’s another Romanesque church in Hohenseeden, but you’ll want to be here for its 3-day Horse Festival every summer and its Animal Farmer’s Market on the 2nd Saturday of every month.

They aren’t the only events that go on in Elbe-Parey. How could I ever leave out the Bauernmarkt (Farmers Market) every month, the Zwiebelmarkt (Onion Market) in early October, and the Winzerfest (Vintage Festival) soon afterwards.

While I might not be a skilled story teller like Herr Fontane, I hope I told you the true tale of Elbe-Parey and some of Baroness Elisabeth von Ardenne’s tale.

Welcome to Bous. I mean, Buss. No, it’s Bous.

What’s the matter, can’t I get a name straight?

Of course I can, but during the years of the Nazis the town’s name was changed to sound more German than French. Why French? Because Bous lies near the border of France in the Saarland; and is also close to Luxembourg.

It lies within the Saar-Lor-Lux region, to be more specific.

Anyway, back to Buss for a minute… I say it the German way for a minute because the Nazis set up a Hitler Youth Camp at the Redemptoristenkloster Heiligenborn (wow, try saying that fast five times!). The old monastery closed in 2009, and is said to have been built over a sacred spring.

World War II isn’t the extent of Bous’ long history, it was once along some long ago Roman Road.

OK, that’s about it on the historical. It’s the Saar River countryside that you’ve come here to see. Otherwise you wouldn’t traveling along the Saar Cycle Route now, would you?

One of the most dramatic views near Bous is where the Saar River bends sharply, a view that’s never truly appreciated unless you’re looking at it from above. Don’t worry, there are plenty of lookout points to appreciate the view.

I guess that makes hiking one of Bous’ best activities. ;-)

Cycling around Bous is quite lovely, and there are more cycling trails than just the Saar Cycle Route that I mentioned before.

Bous also likes a good time. People can’t live by hiking and biking alone, can they? Every year during the first two weeks of November there’s a huge Art Exhibition that brings artists from all over, and soon after is the annual Christmas Market.

Before either of them is Bous’ Oktoberfest at the end of September. And that is so totally German, despite Bous having a very French name.

Thuringia is just full of charming towns like Kahla that are a delight to see, and you might not ever know about unless you’re on some scenic route in Germany like the Saale-Randwanderweg or Saale Cycle Route.

The Saale Cycle Route will bring you right through Kahla from Orlamünde (about 5km away) or Lobeda (around 14km). Whichever way you’re coming from the countryside is quite picturesque, so take your time and enjoy the scenery.

As pretty as you’ll find Kahla’s countryside, it is a historical town too.

The City Church of St. Margaret that you’re looking at today took 84 years to build from 1411-1495. I should say rebuild, because it was destroyed by a fire in 1410 — so that means an even older church was originally here.

As grand you’ll find the church’s architecture, it is the fact that Martin Luther preached here that makes it even more special.

Also from the Middle Ages is the Leuchtenburg. OK, what was once the Leuchtenburg. The inner and outer wall remain, as does the tower dungeon (now a museum), has a tavern, is a music and theater venue, and hosts a Walpurgis Night Festival.

Another venue for musicians and artists is the Metznersche Haus, who use the Local History Museum’s courtyard for artistic events. The building itself is a piece of Kahla’s history. It was built in the 16th century.

And back to a dungeon type experience, the Malzturm (Malt Tower) and Marterturm (Torture Tower) still survive from the town’s original Stadtmauer.

For 20th century history of Kahla, there is a Todesmarsch Stele — that is a monument to those who died here on Death March during World War II.

It’s not all about torture and history, rest assured. Kahla still likes to have a good time, which will be evident if you’re here for the Turner Kirmes at the end of October or the Kaninchen- und Landmarkt (also at the end of October) that sells all sorts of fish, cheeses, and locally made honey.

Eat up, because the Saale Cycle Route is waiting for you.

If Dittelbrunn were any place else but Germany I would almost feel sorry for it. Oh my, what a statement to make!

Small towns that sit right up against big cities like Schweinfurt are often overshadowed by all the excitement that the bigger places offer. But, like I said this is Germany — so these small towns are the heart and soul of this country.

The true heart and soul of Dittelbrunn lies along its many bike trails. Before you get all nervous, they’re not very long.

The Über den Main trail is one of the shortest, with a distance of only around 7km. Not much longer is the Lakes Trail at 9.8km, the Herb Garden Trail at 15.2, and the longest trail of them all is the Tea and Asparagus Way at 42.4km.

When pedaling along on a bike isn’t for you, it’s all right because you’ll find carriage and wagon rides to cart you around.

Actually, how could anyone not want to be outside in Dittelbrunn, as it lies along the Rhön mountains and Steigerwald forest. Can’t you smell the fresh air? I would say fresh Alpine air, but Dittelbrunn’s in Lower Franconia and nowhere near the Alps.

Don’t let something as simple as that stop you from coming here though. ;-)

Being outside in Franconia is an utter joy, but you will have to come indoors once in a while. You’ll want to see the Bicycle Racing Museum, or the 13th century Church of St. Mary, won’t you?

Plus, there is a former Baroque church that’s now a mortuary, but it still counts as a historic church I think.

St. Kilian’s is also another old church, as its tower dates to around 1618. And from the 20th century there’s the St. Rochuskirche (built 1967) and the Marian Grotto from the turn of the last century.

Now, do you see why I don’t feel sorry for Dittelbrunn? It’s perfect and charming just the way it is — and lovely enough to make me forget that it’s only 4km from the medieval city of Schweinfurt.

Way in the north of Germany, almost along the Baltic Sea is the town of Dummerstorf, known mostly for its village churches.

The weather ain’t half bad, either. With average high temps in the 20s (and lows in the 10s) during the height of summer, sightseeing around all those churches will be quite comfortable.

BTW, if summer temps are that “cool,” you could probably just imagine that it’ll be like in the winter. I’ll tell you… picture everyday around the freezing point. That ain’t too bad, just put another sweater on and let’s get to looking around those churches, shall we?

One of Dummerstorf’s most famous churches is the 13th century Village Church of Kavelstorf. It was originally a fortified church (where villagers could come for protection from invaders), but it’s the centuries old pictures that brings people flocking today.

FYI, the pictures everyone comes to see weren’t “discovered” until the 1980s.

No 20th century artwork discoveries at the Village Church in Kessin (which borders the town of Rostock). You’ll also find the half-timbered vicarage building quite pretty, too.

Of course, if you’d rather have a castle, I’d recommend seeing Castle Güstrow. It’s not located within Dummerstorf but in Güstrow — close enough to see one of the most graceful Renaissance castles in this part of the country.

The countryside (as well as its castles) is outstanding in northern Germany, and a ride along the Göldenitzer Mini Train or a hike through the Göldenitzer Moors will prove it to you.

So will wandering around the nature reserve, which you’ll find over by the hamlet of Lieblingshof. You’ll also find yet another village church here as well.

Surprising to find all these churches within Dummerstorf. Barely 8,000 people call this place home. Nah, doesn’t matter… that gives everyone a chance to stretch out & enjoy the views.

There is some truth to the cliche about “All roads lead to Rome,” ya know. Some, however, will take you along areas of Germany that once were crawled by Romans (but not necessarily leading off to their capital city), like the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route, or Römerstrasse Neckar-Alb-Aare.

The route follows three different sections, color-coded to Yellow for the Neckar-Alb region; Green for the Neckar-Aare area; and Blue for the Neckar-Upper Rhine region — in the state of Baden-Württemberg in Germany and leading off to Switzerland.

Easy enough to follow, right? Hey, at least you have maps, GPS, and other handy ways of finding your way. The Romans didn’t have all this modern high-tech stuff.

Start of the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route

Yellow Section — Neckar-Alb

The Yellow Section starts in Köngen (on an old Roman trade route) at the Roman Park. The former Roman settlement is only open on the 1st and 3rd Sunday of the month, so plan your journey to start then, OK?

Almost 2,000 years ago in 100 A.D. a Roman Estate was built in the town of Nürtingen, Oberensingen district (it just wasn’t called that back then). The modern day town is proud of its Jazz Festival and City Festival every year.

While there’s no Roman estate or bathhouse in Pliezhausen, there is a relief of the god Mercury at the Church of St. Martin. It’s pretty big too, almost a meter & a half. Stop in at the Village Museum or take in a concert at the local Rathaus.

Besides an old walking trail, you’ll see a Roman tomb pillar in the town of Kirchentellinsfurt. I think the hamlet’s name is a big as that pillar.

I thought about how to make the next town’s Roman site sound a bit more, um, nicer sounding. What’s Rottenburg am Neckar got that isn’t so pleasant? How about the ruins of a Roman toilet.

Yeah, I said it. Now let’s please move on to Rottenberg’s Cathedral, the Weiler Castle, and the Memorial Synagogue, shall we? ;-)

Bad Niedernau’s Roman finds were quite interesting, coins (over 300 of them) and jewelry (rings, brooches) from the days of Nero. You remember him? He’s the Roman Emperor said to have fed Christians to the lions. Yikes.

Another town, or two rather, along a former Roman Road are Hirrlingen and Rangendingen, where you’ll find a Roman aquaduct, a 16th century Baroque castle, and an old monastery.

An outdoor museum in Hechingen (in its Stein district) awaits, as well as a Roman Festival every two years and Burg Hohenzollern. Forgot for a minute there you can play a round of golf on the local 18-hole course or soak the toes in a Kneipp pool.

Emperor Vespasian makes his appearance along this part of the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route. Well, sort of, as the fort in the town of Burladingen was built at the time he was in power. A second military camp nearby was only recently found — so you get two for the price of one.

On the former border of Germania Superior is Häsenbühl, a district of Geislingen (Zollernalbkreis). A memorial stone of the Romans is here, and you’re more than welcome at the local museum, the Schlossgarten, and the Church of St. Ulrich.

It’s a Roman bath and outdoor museum for you in Rosenfeld, but the Altstadt (Old Town), the Sternwarte (Observatory), and the brewery/winery should be on the itinerary before heading out.

The Romans really made an impression on the landscape so far, haven’t they?

In Sulz am Neckar there’s a Roman Museum (a fort built in 74 A.D.), castle ruins, and a medieval monastery. Charming. Just charming.

In Oberndorf am Neckar there’s a large archaeological exhibit at the Local History Museum, a Villa Rustica, and a monastic church.

While Rottweil offers a Dominican Museum (with Roman exhibits), a City Museum, and plenty of cycling and hiking routes through the Black Forest.

Fischbach (part of Niedereschach) isn’t going to be left out. They have a Roman Museum, nature areas, and a yearly Black Forest Ham Festival.

Our time on the Yellow Route ends here, but don’t panic — we’re not done with the Roman Legion just yet.

Green Section — Neckar-Aare

We pick-up the Green Section of the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route in Hüfingen with the ruins of a Roman bath (from around 100 A.D.), a Roman Festival every year at Corpus Cristi, and charming Old Town.

If you really want to learn more about the Romans, and we’re heading to Switzerland now, you’ll need a guide at the former Roman baths in Schleitheim, along an old Roman trail. The elaborate heating system they had at the Roman spa was fantastic for its time.

Yes, there are remnants of a Roman fort and wall in Bad Zurzach, but they didn’t have the chance to shop at either the Christmas or Antiques Markets like you can.

The highlight of this portion of the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route is Brugg, site of a Roman Legion Camp. After a hundred years of excavation, the Vindonissa Museum is filled with all sorts of Roman tidbits.

You can continue on this section of the route into the town of Windisch as that’s the last stop on the Green Section.

Blue Section — Neckar-Upper Rhine

Traveling on the Blue Section of the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route you’d head from Rottweil 24 km down towards Wurmlingen. Roman baths, Alemannic graves, a Christmas Market, and a castle should entice you, right?

Engen is bustling with Roman sites, the ruins of the Villa Rustica will show you what was once the main building, the bathhouse, and the temple areas. As if that’s not enough, visit Engen’s Altstadt, City Museum, and Ice Age Park.

Sad to think that most people associate the Romans with war, conquering foreign lands, and well, being a tad bit Hedonistic. I ain’t disputing that… just that they were farmers too, and Tengen has got what was once a Roman farm.

Tengen’s also got a quaint Old Town and plenty of hiking, biking, and winter sports to keep you occupied.

The German portion of the Blue Section ends right here in Tengen and continues on to Switzerland and Stein am Rhein and Eschenz.

I’ll continue a bit… just for you. :-)

What’s remarkable about Stein am Rhein is that the Roman Fort Tasgetium (built around 300 A.D.) was converted to a church sometime around 600 A.D. A visit to the Monastery St. Georgen Museum and Castle Hohenklingen are also must-sees.

But now you want to go back to Germany, right? Yes, because there are far too many fascinating German towns and other scenic routes in Germany to travel.

Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route Web Site

Here’s the official Web site about the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route.

How many people out there are plugged in every minute of every day? People are bombarded just about every second with television, Internet, landline phones, mobile phones, PDA’s, email, etc etc…

What would you say if I told you that you can go back to a quieter time? A chance to unplug from the modern world, and see one of the best of Europe’s scenic routes of religious art and architecture, if you will?

Via Sacra, it is.

FYI, I say Europe, because the Via Sacra, or Heilige Strasse (in German) or Holy Route (in English), isn’t just limited to Germany; it travels along to the Czech Republic and Poland.

The German portion of the Via Sacra encompasses approximately half of the route, traveling to about ten towns within Upper Lusatia. But, don’t let the fact that there aren’t that many stops stop you. Quality is better than quantity, isn’t it? :-)

Starting Point of the Via Sacra

Zittau starts the Via Sacra in Germany, and its Lenten Veil is the reason for being on it. Depicted on the “Big Veil” are some 90 scenes of stories straight from the Bible, created in 1472. A century later the “Small Veil” was created — its scene being the story of the Crucifixion.

In keeping with the religious theme, the Museum of Cultural History at the Franciscan Monastery is a stop right on the money. As well as a stop at the Baroque Mountain Chapel (built 1734) that used to be an old synagogue.

For something a bit more modern, come see the 19th century steam locomotive and the town’s zoo.

All right, time to move on to Oybin — a town also known as Kurort Oybin (Kurort meaning spa). It lies along the Zittau Narrow Gauge Railway, but the reason it’s on the Via Sacra is the Burg and Kloster high in the Zittau Mountain.

Construction started on the castle in the 13th century, and the monastery (founded by the Order of Celestines under the order of Emperor Charles V) started a century later. After only 200 years (give or take), the monastery was dissolved; and it is now used as a concert venue, while the castle is a ruin.

From Good Friday to October, a small train runs to the monastery — so you don’t have to hike it.

Yeah, thanks for mentioning hiking. The natural rock formations in and around Oybin (a lil’ town of only around 1500 people) have interesting names like Broody Hen and Chalice Rock. Whatever you call them, they’re just stunning.

Our next town is Herrnhut, whose Evangelische Brüder-Unität is your reason for being here. The Brüder-Unität is a Moravian Church that’s famous for its 26-point star, that’s also known as the Moravian Advent Star or Herrnhut Star. If you’ve been lucky enough to have shopped at the Dresden Stretzelmarkt you many have seen this “3D” pointed star for sale.

The church even offers classes on how these magnificent looking stars are made — and the church is the center of the world’s Moravian community.

Of course, Herrnhut has a local history museum & its old trains station acts is now an art gallery, if you’re so inclined to visit.

Time to leave, heading towards Cunewalde in the Lusatian Mountains. It’s contribution to the Via Sacra is because you’ll find one of the largest village churches in the world here, holding more than 26,000 people. Actually, the church’s interior looks more like an opera house than God’s house — but either way, stunning is an understatement.

Also, it’s Fall Festival in the middle of September is a fun way to complement your visit.

Cunewalde is close to Bautzen, which is our next destination. Located on the Spree River, Bautzen’s Dom St. Peter’s Church is the reason for being here. It’s thought to be the oldest church in Lusatia (built over a thousand years ago), decorated with all sorts of reliefs and known for its sundial.

St. Peter’s is also known as a Simultaneous Church, one of the first in the world. What’s a Simultaneous Church? It’s a church where more than one denomination worships — and has been since the days of the Protestant Reformation.

The church is also said to howl, caused by the winds blowing off the tower. Locals use it to know when “bad” weather is coming.

Bautzen’s bellowing church isn’t all that you’re going to see here (I mean, hear here). The town offers a Sorbian Museum, a City Museum, a Hexenturm (Witches Tower), a Stadtmauer (Defense Wall), and Ortenburg Castle.

While you’re here, buy some traditional gifts — Bautz’er Mustard & beer.

Got your stuff? Good. We’re now heading to the Kloster (Monastery) Sankt Marienstern in Panschwitz-Kuckau, established in 1248. You won’t find any abbey ruins here. It’s still home to 17 Cistercian nuns who tend to its church, garden, monastery museum, and cloister shop.

St. Marienstern used to have its own brewery; and although the stuff isn’t brewed on the property any longer, you can still buy the stuff with the Marienstern label.

Another Kloster, the Monastery Church of St. Anne, is in Kamenz. Created in the 15th century, this Franciscan convent was created under the auspice of the King of Bohemia. It’s 16th century altar is an incredible piece of religious artwork, and the complex has a museum and is a venue for all sorts of concerts.

For our next stop on the Via Sacra we’ll need to head to the east to the Polish border.

By the time you’ve reached Görlitz, you’ve gotten to the most eastern part of Germany. The town’s landmark is known as Peter’s Church, built in 1425. St. Peter’s has everything from vaulted ceilings, to Romanesque entryways, and Baroque frescoes.

The oldest church, however, is St. Nicholas — built in 1100. But, what everyone really wants to see is the Holy Grave, an exact replica of Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre that was built in 1504.

Do yourself a favor, find a few minutes to travel along the Stations of the Cross along the Schönhof, see the old synagogue (at Otto-Müller-Strasse 3), the Jewish cemetery, the zoo, the Silesian Museum, and the town’s “real” landmark: a volcanic mountain called the Landeskrone (State Crown).

Partygoers will appreciate Görlitz’s Altstadt (Old Town) Festival on the last weekend of August, or the yearly Film Festival in February. What a way to enjoy the winter!

I’m sorry to say our sacred journey on the Via Sacra ends (in Germany) once we get to the Kloster St. Marienthal in Ostritz. This Cistercian monastery was opened for women over 900 years ago, and it’s motto is Ora et labora (Latin for Prayer and Work), following the guidelines of St. Benedict.

Everything within St. Marienthal is self-contained (it’s got its own laundry, garden, bakery, and market), and you’re more than welcome to join in the services that take place six times a day (the nuns pray seven times), seven days a week.

There couldn’t possibly be a better place to totally withdraw from the rigors of a 24/7 lifestyle, than at St. Marienthal. And there couldn’t be any better place to end your Via Sacra pilgrimage in Germany. It’s been so long since I used my fancy modern-world gadget — I can’t even find it now! ;-)

Via Sacra Web Site

Here’s a Web site about — and more details on — the Via Sacra.

Did you know that the Saale-Unstrut Wine Route, or the Weinstrasse Saale-Unstrut, is the northernmost wine route in Continental Europe? Always nice to start off a scenic route with a piece of trivia, don’t ya think?

Hell no, this is a wine route — give me a glass of Merlot. ;-)

That’s better — and they’ve been making it around this western part of the Burgenlandkreis in Saxony-Anhalt for a millennia, so you know they’ve got it totally right.

This route is pretty short — only 55 kilometers or 34 miles, touching the historic Saale — though I recommend to not rush through it. Take your time. It’s well worth it.

Start of the Saale-Unstrut Wine Route

With that out of the way, welcome to Memleben (actually, this is a village in the town of Kaiserpfalz), the first stop on the Saale-Unstrut Wine Route. What makes Memleben even better than just its vineyards painting the landscape are its 14th century castle and 10th century Abbey & Imperial Palace ruins.

Speaking of castles, wouldn’t it be nice to enjoy a glass of wine in one? You can in Nebra. That is, technically, in one’s wine cellar.

As wonderful as that sounds, the infamous Himmelsscheibe von Nebra (Nebra Sky Disk) is the real show-stealer. Never heard of it? This is an amazing 30cm bronze disk with a celestial theme from around 1600 B.C. Awesome, right?

As hard as it is to leave Nebra, you gotta — there are seven more towns to go, and hundreds of hectares of vineyards to see.

What’s a hectare? Only 10,000 square meters! That’s a whole bunch of grapes. ;-)

Anyway, if you don’t leave Nebra you won’t see the 9th century Church of St. Lawrence in Karsdorf-Burgscheidungen. Or its palace, for that matter.

For a medieval flair, your next town of Laucha an der Unstrut is it. Sorry, its Rathaus comes from the Renaissance period, built in 1543; but its Stadtmauer (a city defense wall) and three gates are from the 1400s. Modern activities include paddleboating, rowboating, and canoeing.

What good is it to trek along a scenic route along two rivers, if you ain’t gonna enjoy the water? Oh yeah, this is about the wine…

Funny, that’s exactly what you’ll get in Freyburg, and find the headquarters to one of the largest wine companies in Germany. Perfect place for the yearly Winzerfest in September, right? Don’t skip town before seeing Neuenburg Castle, though.

Keeping with the wine theme (duh, Wine Route — what am I thinking) you’ll want to see the Max Klinger vineyards (which are not named after the character on M*A*S*H, a TV program of the 1970’s), in Großjena. You also need to see the Baroque rock reliefs depicting the Old Testament.

Old Testament, New Testament, it’s all there at Naumburg Cathedal in Naumburg (Saale). The church earns it a place on the Romanesque Route; the surrounding vineyards earn it a spot on the Saale-Unstrut Wine Route.

Whatever road you’re on the medieval Altstadt (Old Town) deserves applause. As does the annual Cherry Festival on the last weekend of June.

Too bad we’re almost at the end… I’m rather enjoying myself. It must be the fresh air. No, it must be those three glasses of white wine. ;-)

Forget about Rudelsburg Castle and the spas, Bad Kösen’s got all sorts of wine taverns to sample. OK, ok, you can’t totally forget about those things, but when viticulture’s been around since the year 1147 it’s hard to think of little else.

To be fair, Bad Kösen’s also got a Local History Museum which will tell you about salt extraction in the area, as well as the wine.

Our lovely Saale-Unstrut Wine Route ends in Bad Sulza with its marked hiking trails through its vineyards, TOSKANA spa (with a Tuscan theme), and a replica of Goethe’s garden. Hopefully you’ve made it for the Wine Festival (3rd weekend of August, if you’re interested) and the crowning of the yearly Wine Queen.

I hope you’ve enjoyed the Weinstrasse Saale-Unstrut as much as I have. Now, maybe I should try a Rose? Hmm… it’s good to have choices.

Saale-Unstrut Wine Route Web Site

Here’s a Web site dedicated to the area including the Saale-Unstrut Wine Route.

On October 31, 1517 a man by the name of Martin Luther nailed 95 theses to a church door in Germany. This one event was the catalyst for one of the greatest religious revolts that Germany, Europe, and the world had ever seen.

But, who was this Martin Luther?

First off, he’s been called many things throughout the last 500 years since he kicked off what is now known as the Protestant Reformation — namely we’ve known him as a theologian, a professor, and even an ardent anti-Semite. But, he was also a monk, a husband, a father, and friend to some of the biggest names in the Reformation Movement of the early 16th century.

If you’re interested in religious history, or just German history for history’s sake itself, the Luther Trail, or Lutherweg, in Saxony-Anhalt is one of the most fantastic scenic routes in Germany.

It’s along this route that travels for 410km (255 miles) that will take you along to some of the most amazing sites in this complicated and complex man’s life and work; and possibly send you to find some of your own spiritual awareness.

This route is a bit different from a post on The Germany Blog about the Protestant Reformation and a Luther Trail (sort of) which follows a bit of a more different route (also to a couple other cities related to Luther).

Start of the Luther Trail (Lutherweg)

This Luther Trail, or Lutherweg, starts in the town of Wittenberg. It’s here that you can see this former Augustinian Monastery where Luther lived as a monk. The Kloster was shut down after the Reformation and Luther lived here with his family after that.

This UNESCO site now houses the Reformation History Museum with period furniture, portraits of his parents (painted by Lucas Cranach the Elder), and even a prayer book written by the man himself. It’s worth every Euro of the entrance fee.

Also in Wittenberg is the Melanchthon-Haus. It’s a 3-storey Renaissance style building (built 1536) that was the home of Martin’s friend Philipp Melanchthon; and houses a permanent exhibition on the man. Melanchthon was more than just Luther’s friend and defender of his movement. He is considered to be one of the first theologians of the Protestant Reformation and one of the founders of the Lutheranism.

Wittenberg’s Stadtkirche (City Church) is not only the oldest building in town. Luther preached in this church and the first Mass ever given in German happened right here. OK, you might ask — why is that significant? Well, because prior to Luther’s teachings, masses were performed in Latin.

There’s still a bit more to see here in Wittenberg, including the Cranachhöfe. This is a preserved Renaissance farm with lots of art from the days of the Reformation.

Lastly is the Schlosskirche, another UNESCO site because this is where you’ll find Luther’s final resting place. It’s also the church that had his 95 theses nailed to it just about 30 years prior. In case you don’t speak German, services in English are held on Saturdays at 6pm.

It’ll be hard to leave Wittenberg, but it’s onwards to Coswig (Anhalt) and its St. Nicolai Church (located at Schlossstrasse 58). You might only get to enjoy the church’s musical concerts on the last Sunday of the month (at 5pm), but you’re able to see more of Lucas Cranach’s artwork just about any time.

In the town of Oranienbaum-Wörlitz you’ll find the St. Petri Church, where Luther preached on November 24, 1532. The church has a Biblical Center and special programs for Pilgrims of the Lutherweg on Saturdays at 4:30pm.

Traveling onwards to Dessau-Roßlau make sure you see the Wörlitzer Gartenreich, where you’ll find more Cranach paintings at this UNESCO World Site.

That’s not all there is in Dessau-Roßlau. In the Renaissance wing of the Johannbau, you’ll find an exhibit of Culture & History of the Reformation; and portraits of Luther, Melanchthon, and friend and Reformer contributor Prince George III.

There’s also the 300 year old St. Johannis Church and the Georgium which is a museum with some of the most fantastic works of German (and Dutch) masters. There’s even an entire exhibit with art dating from the 18th century to the 20th.

At the Palais Dietrich you’ll find the private library of Luther’s friend Prince George III, including a manuscript of the Bible’s Old Testament that Luther himself translated.

Last stop before leaving Dessau-Roßlau is the church of St. Marien. This church houses a 1000 year old baptismal bell AND a wonderful painting of Luther. You can see both if you come to services on Sunday at 9:30am.

Once you arrive in Zerbst (Anhalt), you’ll want to see the Francisceum where Luther preached in 1522. Then on to the Kirchen St. Nicolai and Trinitatius, which are two different churches — they’re just really close to each other. St. Nicolai is the largest church in Anhalt and became Evangelical after the Reformation. St. Trinitatius is the newcomer on the block, built in 1696.

Then there’s the 12th century St. Bartholomäi Church that was once a basilica. After 1522, a Franciscan monk at the church became one of the first Lutheran pastors. The frescoes in this Romanesque church are nothing short of stunning!

If you decided to follow the Luther Trail by bicycle, it’s the next stop on the route in Steckby that’s right up your alley. The Radfahrerkirche St. Nicolai offers special exhibitions and special prayers for cyclists. Climb this early 13th century tower for a view of the Saxony-Anhalt countryside. You’re just going to have to do it from April to October (8am-6pm) because that’s the only time the church is open to visitors.

Reppichau (part of Osternienburger Land) might not have too much Reformation history, but in its Museum Sachsenspiegel is thought to be one of the oldest (and important) law books in German. It’s an outdoor museum and a plethora of legal history of Germany and Europe.

Köthen (Anhalt) is the next town on the Luther Trail. Its St. Jacobs Kirche was built in 1518, yet in a little more than 20 years it was Lutheran. Check out its Royal Crypt where the German Prince Leopold is buried.

This town also celebrates another, Johann Sebastian Bach who’s thought to be one of the greatest composers of all time. Look for a bust of the man, called the Bachgedenkstätte.

Why not play some of Bach’s music on your MP3 player or iPod while you travel over to the village of Wohlsdorf. While its church was originally Romanesque in design, it has many Baroque elements that were added a few centuries later. Look for the Knights Cross from the Knights Templar at the church’s entrance.

Bernburg (Saale) with its Renaissance Castle is the next stop. The museum housed in this Burg has one of the oldest editions (printed 1569) of Luther’s work. It’s also considered one of the most valuable. But, how do you put a price on this kind of history?

Also in Bernburg is the church of St. Marien, which was built in 1228. With the help of Prince Wolfgang in 1526, he helped to make this church Evangelical which it remains to this day.

Over at the St. Nikolai Church in Wettin-Löbejün, you’ll see a 13th century alter that was changed in accordance with the change to Protestantism. Not only is the artwork of this church more than magnificent, musical concerts are frequently held here.

Last stop before you arrive in downtown Eisleben is the Kalte Stelle Dorfkirche in Unterrißdorf, found at Lutherweg 17, which was reformed under the ideas of Luther in his day.

Welcome to Lutherstadt Eisleben, which was just known simply as Eisleben when Luther was born here November 10, 1483. Martin was baptized the following day at the Church of Sts. Petri & Pauli. The church sanctuary still preserves the memory of his baptism; and also makes the best place to start your tour of this remarkable city.

Oh, wait. Maybe the house in which Luther was born in would make the best place to start? Inside the Geburtshaus is a permanent exhibit on the man himself, his family, and what life was like here in late 15th/early 16th century Germany. It’s also yet another UNESCO site associated to Luther.

Next up would be the Church of St. Andrew, built in the 15th century (and subsequently rebuilt after a fire), Luther gave one of his last sermons in this church. Make sure you don’t miss the Luther pulpit and the busts of both Luther and Melanchthon.

Eisleben’s St. Annen Church is another must-see. You’ll find it right next to the Augustinian Monastery where Martin was vicar in 1516.

Your last place in Eisleben is the last residence of Luther. He died here at the Sterbehaus on February 18, 1546. In the 19th century, this house was reconditioned to the time period in which Luther lived, filled with period furniture; pretty much looking like it would have in the mid-16th century.

It’ll be hard to follow up a trip to Eisleben, but it’s onwards to Mansfeld. The town’s castle (built 1229 — but dates back to the 11th century) is now a Christian Youth Education Center.

Nearby is the Elternhaus, where Martin’s family moved here when he was just a baby. He lived here until 1497 when he moved to Magdeburg to attend school. Sorry to say, this house can only be seen from the outside.

Our next town on the Luther Trail is Kemberg and its St. Marien Church. Luther’s friend was one of the 1st Protestant priests; and his coffin was carried here on its way back to Wittenberg.

Another church where Luther’s casket was carried to was the 12th century Romanesque Feldsteinkirche in the town of Mühlbeck (nowadays part of Muldestausee). Prior to arriving in Mühlbeck, Luther’s body was at the Evangelical Stadtkirche in Bitterfeld. This grand church was much smaller originally, having to be rebuilt in the 16th century.

The town of Sandersdorf-Brehna isn’t so much about Martin Luther as it is about Katharina von Bora. Katie, as she was lovingly called by her husband Martin, was a nun at the town’s monastery when they met. He helped her escape the convent (along with a few other nuns in fish barrels) — and went on to marry her when she was 26; he was 41.

With this marriage, came a precedent to clergy being able to marry; and she bore him six children (one of their descendants was Paul von Hindenburg, the German President). Mrs. Luther must have been some amazing lady, because behind every great man is an even better woman. ;-)

Come worship at Brehna’s St. Jakobus Kirche on Sundays at 10:30 or Saturday evenings at 6pm, in the town where their love affair started.

You’ll also be welcomed at the Petersberg Kloster in Petersberg by the Lutheran Brotherhood who will give you guided tours of this 12th century monastery and its gardens. For pious pilgrims on this route, prayer hours are at 8am, noon, and 6pm during the week and 10:30am on Sundays.

Halle (Saale) is the last city on the Luther Trail. Not all of its sightseeing revolves around the Reformation, though. The Prehistoric Museum is an archaeological museum which houses the Sky Disc of Nebra — although in 2009 it had a special exhibition on the Reformation, which is why we’re giving this museum an honorable mention.

To see the longest half-timbered house in Europe, this is where you’ll want to do it. Once an orphanage, it’s now a totally amazing Art & Natural History Museum, with an 18th century library exhibit.

Last, and by no means the least, is Marktkirche Unsere Lieben Frauen where one of the first Protestant sermons was given on Good Friday 1541. Its twin towers of this medieval church soar over the town; while inside the church holds the death mask & hands of Luther.

I hope you enjoyed our journey along the historical and spiritual route of the Luther Trail, or Lutherweg in German and on plates along this route (and the other cities where he preached and worked).

Whatever word you use to describe this revolutionary man, you’d be hard-pressed to find anyone who single-handedly changed the face of Germany (and the world) like he did.

More Luther Trips After The Luther Trail

In 2008, Germany (which LOVES its scenic routes) started the Luther Decade in preparation of the 500th anniversary of the Reformation in 2017 (any time is a great time to come to Germany, but the Luther Decade years would be even more PERFECT!). Over the coming years, towns associated with his movement will be having all sorts of festivals, parties, symposiums, and other historical events in his honor.

If you have time at the end of your journey on the Lutherweg, it would be a good idea to stop in the medieval city of Erfurt (about 100km from Eisleben), where Luther received his university education and prayed as a monk at the Augustinian Monastery from 1505 to 1511 (you can stay here too, since there’s a guesthouse that welcomes visitors — although there are no TV’s or telephones in your accommodation — ahh, peace & quiet)!

Erfurt also has a Martin Luther Memorial; and you’ll find another one in the town of Eisenach (at the Karlplatz) where Luther was held at Wartburg Castle. While he was here, he translated the New Testament from Greek to German — and you can see the room where he did it AND the original 1st edition!

You’ll also be able to see the Luther-Haus, one of the oldest timber-framed houses in town. It was said he lived here when he went to school. It’s now housing a multimedia museum with many exhibits relating to the 16th century and his life & teachings.

Luther Trail Web Site

Here’s the Web site dedicated to the Luther Trail.