Kahl am Main — Water Paradise With A Gazillion Lakes

September 18th, 2011

The Lower Franconian town of Kahl am Main is right along the border of Hesse, which makes the place closer to Frankfurt am Main than say, Munich.

Regardless of its geography, Kahl is so totally Bavarian.

Don’t believe me? Just come during the Dorfplatzfest (Village Square Festival) with all its traditional Bavarian food dishes and drinks (that just means beer), and you’ll see what I’m talking about.

If it’s not possible to come for the Dorfplatzfest, the weekly market on Wednesdays (2pm – 6pm) still offers plenty of tasty Bavarian food. So will the Autumn Celebration in October, no doubt.

You know, it’s too bad Kahl doesn’t bake at the 17th century bakehouse anymore. Bread baked in those old ovens sure do taste delicious. For three hundred years (circa 1650) the bakehouse was the center of baking within the community — that was until 1937 when it all stopped.

All right, I might be a bit nostalgic for some deliciously baked bread, but not all of Kahl’s history is so kind.

Back in the 17th century, the town (and its environs) were subjected to those awful Witch Hunts. And, technically, the Witches Oak belongs to the town of Großkrotzenburg. There’s a memorial to the 90 people who lost their lives under the orders of the ruling Archbishop.

If I can get a bit nostalgic again for a minute, this time at the Schloss Emmerichshofen, built in 1728. So what if there wasn’t any running water, disease was rampant, and life expectancy was just over half of what it is now? A Baroque palace is beautiful and serene.

Do you know what else is beautiful and serene? The countryside. Many of the hiking trails are flat. And there are, I dunno, a gazillion lakes around town. If you love water, Kahl am Main is heaven! Plus, there’s a huge campsite at the Ostsee (see webcam!) with long beaches, miniature golf, table tennis, and all kinds of other stuff that makes the whole family happy.

As wonderful as all this is, none of the above are Kahl’s landmark. Nope, that title belongs to the Sandhasendenkmal — or the Sandstone Rabbit Sculpture — which you’ll find at the B8 highway.

It might be hard to romanticize about that, but it sure did give me a chuckle. ;-)

Albbruck — Hiking And Biking Around Medieval Sights

September 17th, 2011

You don’t get much better in terms of stunning locale than the town of Albbruck. Not only is it in the Upper Rhine region, but it also lies within the Black Forest and Swiss Alps.

Swiss Alps? Oh, didn’t I tell you that Albbruck (with all its 20 villages & hamlets) lies right on the border on Germany’s southern neighbor, Switzerland?

Unlike Klettgau (whose sightseeing often takes you “south of the border”), there’s no need to run off to see the Swiss.

An entire day could be spent at the Rheinspitz alone. This swimming area brings swimmers and fishermen (and fisherwomen?) from all around. There are even some hiking trails around the Rheinspitz, in case you’re interested.

Albbruck’s history is quite long, as it was once ruled by the Teutonic Knights. But, a few centuries before these medieval warriors came along, the Holy Cross Basilica was built.

Sorry, that’s not quite an accurate statement. It was a Romanesque village church before becoming a basilica. Either way, its stone altar is an outstanding piece of religious artwork.

To learn more about Albbruck’s history (both religious and secular) go see the Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum), housed in the 300 year old Salpeterer Haus.

And you know as with just about any (and every) town in Germany, there’s going to be a bunch of festivals going on. On the first weekend of September Albbruck holds its Dorffest (Village Festival), while the Christmas Market is on Advent’s first weekend, and the annual Flea Market (one man’s trash is another’s treasure, right?) is in mid-June.

One of the most fun things to do in Albbruck is the Outdoor Theater. Everyone gathers around the pool area as the sun goes down to take in a movie under the stars. Who cares if it’s German (or Swiss German — being this close to Switzerland), you’ll have a grand time.

See? Didn’t I tell you there wasn’t any reason to cross over to see Switzerland?

Nothing personal, mighty Neighbor! I love you too!

Neukirchen im Knüllgebirge — Fairytales, Sculptures, Medieval Tours

September 17th, 2011

On Sundays it’s time to get out of Dodge. Well, in this case, “Dodge” would be the Hessian spa & Kneipp town of Neukirchen im Knüllgebirge.

You never quite know where I’m going with openings like these, huh?

Every Sunday (and occasionally on Saturdays too) there’s bus service to outlying towns and cities like Fritzlar, Heidelbeg, Marburg, and the UNESCO city of Weimar. Oh yeah, and nearby spa towns like Bad Hersfeld and Bad Wildungen are also on the itinerary.

The other five to six days of the week are spent on the simple pleasures of sightseeing around Neukirchen — starting with the Nikolaikirche. It’s been a Protestant church since the Reformation, but it’s been around since 1142. The 36-meter high tower is Neukirchen’s landmark, and a popular location for weddings.

Nikolai isn’t the only medieval church. So if you’re on a quest to see as many as you possibly can, you’ll want to add the church in the Christerode neighborhood and the church in the Hauptschwenda neighborhood to the itinerary (the latter being famous for its 16th century artwork).

Since we’re on the subject of the Middle Ages, you might want to join the guided Evening Tour. It highlights much of Neukirchen’s medieval history — and even includes a night climb of the Nikolai Tower.

Other historical sites in Neukirchen would be the Heimatmuseum, whose exhibits even include prehistoric artifacts, the old Backhaus (Bake House) where the stone ovens are still operational, and a bunch of half-timbered houses (the oldest built in 1598).

A daytime guided tour (Fridays at 3pm) will make sure you see all this and more.

History and folklore kind of go hand-in-hand, so be sure to see the Fairytale House. Who doesn’t like hearing all about Little Red Riding Hood and Rapunzel?

You know what else people like hearing about? Festivals and Markets. The Weekly Market is every Tuesday (8am-1pm), whereas the Marktbrunnenfest (Market Fountain Festival) is in August, the Tulpenfest (Tulip Festival) is in March, and the Pfingstkirmes takes place during Pentecost (that’s about 50 days after Easter). Finally, the obligatory Weinachtsmarkt takes place in December.

Oh, almost time to catch that Sunday bus — just enough time to take in a stroll along all the sculptures at the spa park — a perfect last place before getting out of Dodge. ;-)

Renchen — Literary Inspired, History And Sports Enthusiast Approved!

September 17th, 2011

MyGermanCity.com has plenty of information all typed neatly on web pages ranging on everything from German food, to its cities and towns, German cars, and its long history.

What I should do is make a page dedicated to German writers, so that you’ll learn more about some amazing authors who lived (and died) in places like Rechen in Baden-Württemberg.

I would save writing about German writers for another day, but one of the country’s most famous writers died here in 1676. Hans Jakob Christoffel von Grimmelshausen (known as just Grimmelshausen from here on out) work of Adventurous Simplicissimus Teutsch was his most famous novels, set during the Thirty Years’ War.

Who better to have written about it, than someone who lived it.

In honor of Grimmelshausen, close to the town church you’ll find a red sandstone obelisk. You’ll also find a museum with more information on his life and works. Every two years, towns associated with Grimmelshausen hold a literary contest with a 10,000€ prize.

In the interim, there’s a good bit to discover around Renchen. The town has its very own Weinbrenner Church (built 1817), little alleyways framed by charming framework houses, vineyards that produce the most delicious wines, and darling fruit trees.

It’s picture postcard perfect, don’t ya think?

What it also is, is pretty fun. Renchen hosts an Oktoberfest (that’s really held in October) with an Herbstfestival soon afterwards, and the obligatory Weinachtsmarkt starting at the end of November. Also through the Autumn season are Renchen’s Culture Days, with all sorts of cabaret, puppet theater, and many other events held during this time.

Seems appropriate in this writer-inspiring land. But, I’m pretty sure that games like tennis, miniature golf, beach volleyball at the outdoor waterpark, and basketball weren’t around when Grimmelshausen lived around these parts.

I’m also positive that all the hiking trails and bicycle paths didn’t exist in Grimmelshausen’s days either. Good thing you’re not living in those days. This way you get to experience it all, plus learn about the works of Grimmelshausen.

Speaking of his work, maybe I should really think about those Web pages on the best of German writers…

Ebern — Plenty Of Castles With A Legend Of A Restless Spirit

September 17th, 2011

The eighteen villages of the town of Ebern in Lower Franconia, I must admit, didn’t bring on images of hiking trails through the Alps. Nor did it invoke fond memories of beer and lederhosen.

No, it was a history buff’s dream town — centered around nearby castles, Gothic architecture, and stories of Barons, Knights, and Ladies Fair.

For the most part these stories are all in my head — except the legend of the buried treasure guarded by a restless spirit at the ruins Burg Rauheneck. Most of the castle has decayed over the centuries from when it was destroyed, but you’re still able to make out the Gothic windows and the shell of the Gothic chapel.

Burg Rotenhan is also a ruin (sad, it was built in 1190 and destroyed 133 years later in 1323). Amazing, after almost 700 years you can still see the original staircase and cistern. This castle ruin seems to be popular with occultists, who believe the site to be… not haunted, more like sacred.

One of the most impressive of Ebern’s castles is Castle Eyrichshof. It was the quintessential medieval Wasserschloss (moated castle) before undergoing renovations making it more Baroque in style. Everyone comes to see its Renaissance-styled library, its Baroque stucco ceiling, and the castle church.

Ebern is also near to Burg Bamberg (the UNESCO city of Bamberg is about 23km to the south), Burg Lichtenstein, and Burg Altenstein; but, you’ve really got to do more sightseeing in its medieval Altstadt (Old Town).

Every visit should include a stop at the Gothic St. Lawrence Church, with its medieval ossuary. Over in the cemetery is the St. Mary’s Chapel, which was originally Gothic but now has a Baroque interior.

Interestingly enough, none of these sites so far is Ebern’s landmark. That honor is reserved for the Grauturm, or Gray Tower. I wouldn’t skip seeing that, and neither would I miss the Heritage Museum, a visit to the 17th century Jewish cemetery, and just strolling along the historic Rittergasse (or Knights Lane).

Which is exactly where I came up with some more interesting tales of Barons and, of course, Knights. ;-)

Pleinfeld — Three Huge Lakes And Plenty Of Sports And Festivals

September 17th, 2011

I swear, I wish I had all the time in the world, simply because I’d need it to see and play in (and around) the Middle Franconian town of Pleinfeld. Add in the time it would take to learn about the town’s history, and I’d probably have to live until around the age of 135.

We Germans are making major strides in both medicine and spiritual consciousness, so maybe that is a possibility.

But, I digress… I think we’ll kick off Pleinfeld with its Local History Museum. Sorry, the Heimat- und Brauereimuseum, which is the Local History and Brewery Museum.

See, I let the Bavarian beer thing slide without a joke. Until now. ;-)

Also part of Pleinfeld’s history is the Spalter Tor, a gate of the defense wall (that’s still partly attached) built in 1548; many half-timbered houses; and the Altes Vogteischloss with its charming garden.

They all sound pretty old, huh? But they’re nothing compared to the Celtic grave mounds.

It’s time to move on to the outdoors, the recreational side of Pleinfeld. Three huge lakes (the Großer Brombachsee, the Kleine Brombachsee, and the Igelsbachsee) are all yours to enjoy.

Each of them offers hiking and cycling trails around them (at 17.5km, 8.5km, and 6.5km respectively). Of course, that’s not all. You can chill out on the beach, sail, boat, fish, and canoe ’til the cows come home.

As if you wouldn’t be tired enough, Pleinfeld has bungee-trampolining (not for the faint of heart), golfing, high rope climbing (again, not for the faint of heart — and neither is careening down the Summer toboggan track), mountainbiking, and for more genteel pursuits — carriage rides.

Winter won’t be left out of the fun. There’s skiing for when the mercury drops to chiller numbers.

What could be better than all this?

Festivals. Lots and lots of festivals, as well as markets and regattas.

September is a big month around Pleinfeld — with the Autumn Regatta, Seeland Marathon Run, Oktoberfest, and Trödelmarkt (Flea Market). July’s pretty active too, that’s when Pleinfeld holds its Dorffest (Village Festival) and Waldsportfest (Forest Sport Festival).

Come to think of it… With all these festivals, sports, and all-around good cheer, I hope more people find their way to live for 135 years. Because I certainly don’t want to spend all those years ALONE in Pleinfeld. ;-)

Postbauer-Heng — Bronze Age Meets The Teutonic Knights

September 17th, 2011

What can I say about the town of Postbauer-Heng in the Upper Palatinate? It’s a market town, for one. And it was the old stomping grounds for the Orden der Brüder vom Deutschen Haus St. Mariens in Jerusalem.

The who? The what? The where?

In English that would be the Order of Brothers of the German House of Saint Mary in Jerusalem, but you’re probably more familiar with them by their other name, the Teutonic Knights.

Now you know who they are, right? Good, because this way you’ll be impressed when you visit Postbauer-Heng’s Deutschordenschloss, a castle that once belonged to the Order. It is now a cultural center.

BTW, Postbauer-Heng’s St. James Church is even older than the Order, built in 1068.

As impressively old as the Knights’ and church’s history are, that ain’t nothing compared to the “Golden Hat” found nearby. It’s one of the most impressive Bronze Age finds, measuring 88cm high. You will have to go to Nuremberg to see it, however, since it’s on display at the Germanic National Museum there.

The only museums in Postbauer-Heng are the Local History Museum (called Heimatmuseum), filled with exhibits on rural life in the 19th century. This museum doesn’t have any set opening hours or days. If you want to see it, you gotta call and make an appointment.

Fleischmichlhaus is the other one. Located on Ludwigstraße 23 in the Pavelsbach district, this old farmhouse (with exhibits on everything from sheep to a 19th century kitchen) is open on the 3rd Sunday of the month from April to November. This is also the venue for the Kartoffelfest, or Potato Festival, every September.

Also in September is the annual Wine Festival, but anytime is the right time to enjoy hiking or cycling along the Ludwig-Danube-Main Canal Route (OK, maybe not the dead of winter), the Franconian Lakes, the Five Rivers Cycle Route, or try rock climbing in the Jura.

The warmer months might be better to enjoy the Naturerlebnisbad. Open everyday from sun-up to sundown, this lake is perfect for picnics and a few games of basketball and miniature golf.

History and outdoor recreation? Sounds like a match made in Heaven, don’t you think?

I think at the very least the religious Teutonic Knights Order would agree. ;-)

Herscheid — Primo Location For A Forest Jaunt

September 17th, 2011

Eureka! I think I understand why getting to Herscheid in North Rhine-Westphalia by just about any mode of transport isn’t so easy. Oh, excuse me if I’m writing that like I’m actually happy.

Hold on a sec, I am happy that I figured it out and I’m happy that it’s no easy feat for an arrival in Herscheid. But, just as you don’t read a book from back to front — let me start at the beginning.

The little town of Herscheid has been around for centuries, and is located within the precious Sauerland Mountains. This location within the mountainous region makes it a primo location for all sorts of forest jaunts — including hiking and mountain biking. Ya never know, you might even get to see a European bison wandering around while you’re out there.

Herscheid’s mountain and forest location makes for an out of the way town, thus partly responsible for making it a little difficult to get here. But, the beautiful countryside more than makes up for it.

Plus, there isn’t any passenger train service here any longer — just as the closest highway exit is in Lüdenscheid, the next town over.

While you’re in the town itself, you’ll have the chance to see the 11th century Church of the Apostle. I’d recommend taking the guided tour (you gotta call for an appointment) to fully appreciate the Romanesque and Gothic elements of the church.

As old (and beautiful) as the Apostle Church is, it is the Spieker that is Herscheid’s landmark. The official date says this half-timbered house is from the 17th century, but it is believed to have been built two centuries before that.

For a historical look at industry, the Ahe-Hammer is ideal. It’s been around since 1562, using its two water wheels right up to 1945. In the 1950’s it was converted to a museum.

Another kind of education awaits you at the Waldlernpfad, a 5 & 1/2 kilometer trail (that’ll take you about 2 hours or so) with information boards chocked full of fun facts about the forest. Tough luck if you get tired before the half-way point, cause that’s where you’ll find the park benches. ;-)

Wheww, I’m tired already… I guess I’ll go hit up the Night Bus (service runs on weekends) to take me someplace new. I guess Herscheid isn’t that hard to get to after all. Nah, maybe they just make it easy for you to leave. ;-)

Hasselroth — Medieval Language And Modern Day Fun

September 17th, 2011

It’s pretty much guaranteed that when you’re in the Hessian town of Hasselroth that you’ll hear things that mean nothing to the 21st century. Words like tithe barn, or Leineweber (hey, I didn’t say all the words you hear would be in English — and the Leinewebers were a bunch of weavers that banded together here from the 16th-19th centuries, before cigar production became all the rage).

Independently words like these mean nothing. However, in the three villages of Hasselroth, they mean everything.

I assure you I’m not being overly cryptic. It’s just that how often in everyday conversation does the word tithe barn come up? Maybe a little more often in Hasselroth’s village of Neuenhaßlau because that was the original function of its community center.

A tithe barn, BTW, was where farmers used to bring their “tithe” (one-tenth mandatory “offering”) to the church.

One of Hasselroth’s churches that’s old enough to remember the days of the tithe barn is in the village of Gondsroth, both of which were founded sometime in the 12th century (it’s Protestant now though).

Just so you know, Hasselroth’s Local History Museum is more than able to fill you in the town’s weaving (why else would I bring up the word Leineweber?) and other kinds of history.

Whatever romantic notions you might be having about Hasselroth, it’s the modern day town that’s the most fun. We all know by now that Germany’s festivals are the stuff of legend, so why not make sure you’re here for the Kartoffelfest (Potato Festival) in October or the Village Festival in September.

Unable to make either festival? Too bad, but if you’re able to make it for Heritage Day (in September), the Fall Market (called Herbstmarkt, also in September), or any one of the church concerts — it more than makes up for missing them.

No special day needed to hike (why not give Nordic Walking a try?) through the Spessart. It’s quiet, it’s pleasant, and you’ll pretty much find that you won’t use words like tithe barn even once. ;-)

Bad Kötzting — Pentecostal Celebrations Of Medieval Men

September 17th, 2011

It takes more than two handfuls of villages to make up the spa town of Bad Kötzting within the Bavarian Forest, and pretty gosh-darn close to the border of the Czech Republic.

Bad Kötzting’s magnificent geographical location is nothing (oops, did I just say that?) compared to its annual event known as the Bad Kötztinger Pfingstritt (Whit Ride).

One caveat, you must be a man to participate.

Wait, before the ladies get themselves in an outrage — let me tell you what it is…

The legend (story, historical event, whatever) says that a man was out in the woods, calling for a priest to give him last rites sometime in the 15th century. Kötzting’s priest was afraid to venture out into the woods all by himself (there were wolves and other sorts of creatures out there), so he asked the men of the village to give him protection as he set off to tend to the dying man.

In his (and the medieval men of the time’s) honor, this pilgrimage of sorts takes place every year on Whit Monday (the day after Pentecost), where the men (and their horses) make the annual procession — with church services and other events along the way.

Bad Kötzting’s Pentecostal Rider Museum (Pfingstritt-Museum) is a great place to learn more about this annual event (housed within the Castle Church). And for those men who’ve made the trip a minimum of 50 times (that’s 50 years) their name is engraved on the Pentecostal Rider Fountain.

Other events in Bad Kötzting aren’t just regulated to the guys. The Forest Festival offers classic theater performances (you know, like MacBeth, Faust, etc), and during Pentecost Week there’s a yearly Folk Festival.

As if the Pentecostal Ride isn’t historical enough, some historical buildings in town to see would be the Assumption Parish Church (built 12th century) — whose parts are still attached to its Stadtmauer; the St. Anne Cemetery Chapel (built 1680s); St. Vitus Church (originally built 1250 — but rebuilt after a fire in 1633); and the Alte Rathaus whose bell chimes everyday at 11am.

Plus, this is a good thing that Bad Kötzting is a spa town (with a Kneipp spa) because after all the sports to be done here — you’re gonna need it.

Let’s see… there’s Alpine skiing, paragliding, hotair ballooning, tennis, skating, riding, fishing, bowling, canoeing, kayaking, golfing (18-holes), 900km of biking paths, and 200km of hiking lanes.

Tired yet? I am, so I think I’ll sit under the 1000-year old Wolframslinde tilia tree with a nice book and a beer. ;-)

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