Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route — The Most Elegant Of Designs

September 21st, 2011

If you’re not familiar with Baroque architecture you’re missing out on what some would consider the most elegant of designs.

The Baroque period started in Italy back in the late 16th century, and by the time the 18th century came rolling around the sweeping embellishments of gold and marble had found its way through Europe and the New World.

Yes, Germany’s not too far from Italy — so you’d think that it wouldn’t have taken too long before the country jumped on the Baroque bandwagon. Sadly, not true.

Germany was in the midst of a serious warfare back in the early 17th century, fighting the Thirty Years’ War from 1618-1648. The destruction and devastation left behind in its wake might have curtailed the arrival of the grand Baroque style, but it also gave cause for many of the country’s medieval churches and castles to be rebuilt.

So, what did the people do? They rebuilt, and rebuilt them in a grandiose style of the day. The Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route, or Barockstrasse Saarpfalz in German, might not be long, but the six towns along its 100km length are smattered with some of the prettiest architecture in the country.

Start of the Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route

Where does the Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route start?

It stars in Ottweiler, where its Baroque Rose Garden is the stuff of legend. Oh, didn’t I mention that the Baroque stylings weren’t just limited to buildings?

The Witwen Palais is another grand example of the Baroque, as well as the Stengel Church and even Ottweiler’s Evangelical Church from the late 15th century (whose Baroque accents were added much later).

What’s next?

Welcome to Homburg, where the Baroque Gustavsburg started off as a simple “hunting residence” in the 1750s; and was destroyed only a few decades later during the French Revolution. The ruins of Castle Karlsberg is also a must-see, as well as the Vauban Fortress ruins — which were built by King Louis XIV.

In the historic downtown section, many of the Baroque buildings are the work of one man — Sebastien Le Pretre de Vauban. Yes, the same guy that designed the Vauban Fortress for the French king.

We’re halfway through the Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route when arriving in the town of Blieskastel. It’s Castle Church is the highlight; built in 1773 it’s a wonder of plaster, stucco, gold and marble. It’s also the final resting place for a Count and Countess.

If you got time, stop for lunch at the Orangery within the Baroque Gardens. Plus, much of its Old Town has a number of Baroque monuments and houses, and during Baroque Adventure Weeks (in September) the town offers all sorts of events, tours, and soirees with the Baroque period as the guest of honor.

You can also take culinary tours in Blieskastel, which is also a fun (and delicious) way to enjoy the place.

Our next stop leads us to the magnificent Baroque church in the town of Sankt Ingbert. The St. Ingbert Church was built in 1755, and is considered one of the most special of all the buildings of the era; as is the graceful and charming Roter Bau.

Don’t leave before you’ve seen the Holy Cross Chapel (built 1682) that was said to hold the relic of Jesus’ Cross.

It’s time we leave for Zweibrücken, whose Tschifflick (built 1715) was the residence of an exiled Polish aristocratic family. Another graceful Baroque palace is the Residenzschloß, built four years after Tschifflick.

The Swedish King approved the Charles Church, so named after him — but it’s also called the Luther Church. Whatever its name, it was built in 1707 — in, can you guess, a Baroque style. ;-)

Our expedition of the Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route ends in Saarbrücken. What a beautiful place to end our trip, whose Castle Church has six centuries (from the 13th to 19th centuries) of religious artwork — including Baroque.

That is the reason you’ve come this far, right?

While some might have called Püttlingen Castle a hunting lodge, it is a gorgeous example of Baroque architecture. It even once belonged to the French, but it’s all Germany’s now. ;-)

The Baroque doesn’t end there yet. I wouldn’t have you come all this way to end it just like that.

In order to get the whole Baroque experience, you need to see Saarbrücken’s Huguenot Church — built by French Calvinists in the late 16th/early 17th centuries — but it is its Baroque Hall that steals the show.

You’ll also find another Baroque Church on the Ludwigsplatz, and the Basilica of St. John was also built in the style in 1754.

Saarbrücken’s Watchmaker’s House is one of the youngest of the Baroque buildings on the route — it didn’t come along until the 19th century; whereas the Parsonage House (in the village of Heusweiler) was built in the 18th century.

Sounds good, yes? Well, I’ve saved the best for last — the Palace Square. Or, as some might have heard it referred to as the Castellum Sarrabrucca. The palace is a 17th century Renaissance design with 18th century Baroque renovations, but the square itself has been around from 999 A.D. Yeah, that would be dawn of the 11th century.

One thing’s for sure, I’m just glad that Germany eventually jumped on the Baroque bandwagon. Otherwise we’d probably be on some other German scenic route right now. ;-)

Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route Web Site

For a bit better planning and more info, here’s the official Web site of the Saar-Palatinate Baroque Route.

Sisi’s Road — Bavarian Girl, Austrian Empress, Hungarian Queen

September 19th, 2011

The legacy of Elisabeth Amalie Eugenia von Wittelsbach (known as Sisi to her family and friends) is felt more than a century later, and spans across five European countries (Germany, Austria, Hungary, Italy, and Switzerland) on Sisi’s Road, or the Sisi Strasse in German.

Sisi was considered to be one of the most beautiful women of her time, married to the heir of the Austrian Empire (at 16, he was 24). Yet, her life was hardly charmed — even going so far as to being compared to a “Hollywood movie script.” Even her death was tragic; murdered on a city street at the age of 61.

Who was this extraordinary woman to warrant an entire scenic route in Germany and beyond that bears her name? She wasn’t simple by any means, born Christmas Eve 1837. Her father was a Bavarian Duke, her mother the sister of Bavaria’s King Ludwig I.

Yes, that makes Sisi the first cousin to Mad King Ludwig II.

Sisi wasn’t supposed to be queen or empress. Her sister, Helene, was the one who was to marry Austria’s heir-apparent Franz Joseph. When her family traveled to meet the prince’s family, he was instantly smitten with Elisabeth instead.

The Start of Sisi’s Road in Germany

Whomever she married, Sisi’s Road follows the places and sites that were important in the life of this magnificent lady. The sites in Germany on the Sisi Road are huddled together in Bavaria and the German Alps region, so there’s no exact starting point.

Either way, let me kick it off in Aichach.

Elisabeth spent her childhood here in Aichach at Unterwittelsbach Castle (her father’s retreat) where she was known to ride her horses quite frequently. She was also known to frequent the pubs around town with her father, even finding a way to make her own money. You can see the exterior of the castle just about anytime, but the inside only on special occasions.

Pöcking is where Elisabeth spent time in another castle, Possenhofen Castle — the family’s ducal estate. But, that’s not where you’ll find the Kaiserin Elisabeth Museum; that’s housed in the Old Train Station (open weekends 2pm – 6pm).

As befitting a queen (and the cousin and niece of kings, as well as the niece of queens) Elisabeth was often in castle and palaces. The next palace where Sisi spent her time was St. Emmeram Castle in Regensburg. The Austria Empress’ sister died here (with Elisabeth at her side) at the seat of the House of Thurn & Taxis.

The room of her death was eventually converted to a chapel; and visitors are welcome to take guided tours of the palace, the Carriage Museum, and brewery. Just so long as you do it between April and the beginning of November.

It wouldn’t be correct to say that Elisabeth spent too much time at the Neuschwanstein Castle, but this epic palace was “created” by her cousin, Ludwig II. They would often meet at Rose Island in Lake Starnberg, away from prying eyes at Court and free to be themselves; and the reasons why both places are stops along Sisi’s Road.

Actually, make that three stops as Lake Starnberg is also listed. Ludwig died under mysterious circumstances at the lake (there’s a small chapel for that reason) but you can boat, fish, waterski, or dive all you want.

You can also hike or bicycle too, as there’s a 46.2km circular trail around it.

Sounds like an idyllic life, doesn’t it? Who wouldn’t think so surrounded by royalty and both living or visiting some of Germany’s most beautiful castles. It wasn’t the case for Elisabeth, I’m sorry to say.

After her brother went on to become Duke Ludwig, he “married” his Jewish girlfriend (a nice way of saying mistress), and their illegitimate daughter wasn’t ever accepted at Court. Nothing too scandalous today, but really unthinkable back in the mid-19th century.

The child that wasn’t accepted into royal life (and who died broke) was one of Elisabeth’s favorite nieces. Sisi was a free-thinker. She was a Queen — who was going to tell her different? ;-)

Her brother, BTW, lived on Maximilian Strasse in Augsburg, one of the last stops on Sisi’s Road.

We actually end Sisi’s Road at Feldafing where Kaiserin Elisabeth spent almost a quarter-century of summers. She often stayed at what’s now called the Golfhotel Kaiserin Elisabeth. You’re more than welcome to stay in the Sisi Suites and dine on a menu that was available in her day.

Ironic considering Elisabeth was thought to have anorexia.

You’ve got to be wondering where’s the intrigue? Where’s the royal scandal?

Well, it didn’t happen in Germany. Most of her tragedies (her bouts of depression; the suicide of her son with a 17-year old girl; her murder in Geneva in 1898) happen beyond Bavaria’s borders. Here she was a carefree girl who just so happened to be married to an Emperor and related to other royalty.

Sisi’s Road Web Site

Here is the official Sisi’s Road Web Site.

Baiersdorf — Dedicated To Festivals And Horseradish

September 18th, 2011

Nothing happens quickly in the Middle Franconian town of Baiersdorf. It takes time to create perfection, ya know.

You see, some of Baiersdorf’s festivals don’t take place every year. It takes time to plan the Altstadt (Old Town) Festival, that happens every five years; while you won’t have to wait that long for the Summer Serenade or the Franconian Christmas event — just every two years.

But, for those of you out there who want some yearly action, you’ll find that too.

There’s a Krenmarkt on the third Sunday of September, an Advent Market on the first weekend of Advent, a Church Festival in August, and the best of the Middle Ages… the Medieval Market with all sorts of jugglers, crafts, and music of the day in mid-October.

Another one of Baiersdorf’s annual festivals is the St. John’s Fair, which is held at the 18th century Chapel of St. John.

Sorry, St. John, you’re no where nearly as old as St. Nicholas. It might have become a Protestant Church after the Reformation in the 16th century, but it was built four centuries before that.

Just so you know, the St. Joseph Church is a newcomer to the religious scene in Baiersdorf, built only in the 20th century. But, you’ll find its artwork to be brilliant nonetheless.

One more stop in this Franconian town’s religious history, the Jewish cemetery has gravestones from the 15th century. No, it’s not morbid — it’s history. ;-)

Prefer food? How about Horseradish? The Meerrettich Museum is all about the cultivation and industry of Horseradish. Heck, they even pick a Horseradish Queen every year at the Horseradish Market on the third Sunday of September.

Didn’t I tell you that it took time to perfect every wonderful thing about Baiersdorf? You’re always able to sit at the Virgin Fountain in the park or stroll along all the pretty half-timbered houses to contemplate about it all…

Breuberg — Sky Dive To A Mysterious Castle

September 18th, 2011

If you’re able to tear yourself away from the Frankenstein Castle in nearby Mühltal, I’d recommend coming to see Breuberg Castle in the town that bears its name.

Um, that would be Breuberg, not Castle. ;-)

Anyway, Breuberg does have more than just its 12th century castle that’s now part museum and part restaurant, which is open from the middle of March to the middle of October. Plenty of time to come see this 850 year old Burg, wouldn’t you say?

Another castle to see is the Mühlhäuser Schlößchen. Or, I should say what remains of the castle which you’ll find in the outlying forest. Funny, not much was ever written about the castle, so no one is too sure when it even was built.

Take that, Frankenstein, Breuberg’s got a historical and mysterious castle too.

The historical buildings in Breuberg don’t end at its castles. You really should get a gander at the 16th century Evangelical Church (that used to be a 15th century military church) that now has a Baroque interior.

Since I’ve been talking about the historical side of Breuberg, seems like a good time to mention the Historical Market that the town holds every two years (odd-numbered years, in case you’re wondering).

Every year there are a number of other festivals in town. October is a really big month for going-ons. That’s when there’s the Pumpkin Festival (yummy pumpkin pie), the Book Market, and the Wine Festival.

Castles. Wine. What else could make Breuberg any better? How about tennis, fishing, Nordic Walking trails, swimming, a Geo Park, and sky diving?

Not enough? OK, throw in a chance to do some rock climbing on the Klettersteig (which used to be an old quarry), and you’ve got yourself the best time ever.

You’ll probably be a bit tired after all that activity, so either spend the night at the youth hostel that used to be a castle, or do it in a tent at the local campground. The choice is yours.

But aren’t you glad you chose to come here in the first place?

Pfalzgrafenweiler — Hiking And Praying In The Black Forest

September 18th, 2011

When you arrive in the town of Pfalzgrafenweiler, you might find yourself at a crossroads. Literally.

I don’t mean like some major, poignant point in your life or anything; just that Pfalzgrafenweiler lies along the Ostweg, a 240km north/south hiking trail through the Black Forest; meeting up with the intersecting Gäurandweg, a 106km east/west route.

Told you, crossroads. Sometimes I think no one listens to me. ;-)

Whatever road you’ve chosen to get to Pfalzgrafenweiler, I’m sure you’ll be expecting to see something. There’s always the Museum Edelweiler, which acts as the Village History Museum.

Or, you could go see the ruins of the Unsere liebe Frau im Zinsbach, which is a really long name for what was once a medieval chapel from 1536. There’s also the Ruine Mantelberg. The 13th century castle (built 1250) might have been destroyed during the Peasants’ War in the 16th century, but its 35-meter high tower makes a great lookout point.

My guess would be that if you hiked all the way to Pfalzgrafenweiler, you might not be so inclined to walk around anymore than you’d have to. But, then you’ll be missing out on all the shopping fun at the Krämermarkt (which is held twice a year — once right after Easter; the other right after Michaelmas).

Not gonna be here for all that? It’s OK, there’s a weekly market held every Friday, starting at 10am.

If you haven’t hiked to Pfalzgrafenweiler (and have no intention of walking as long as the other two I mentioned), then maybe you’ll be interested in following along some of the town’s smaller ones. They’re listed with names such as the 4-Burgen-Weg (4-Castle Trail) and the Baumwelten-Tour (Tree Worlds Tour).

No explanation is really necessary about what these routes are about, is there? Please, this is the Black Forest — like you’d ever go wrong with any choice of route here.

If you’re afraid of getting lost, then maybe a guided Nordic Walking tour is right for you. Just make sure you see the Hohlenstein, a beautiful natural rock formation.

It doesn’t really matter what route you’ve chosen to find yourself in Pfalzgrafenweiler. It only matters that you’re here.

Hardheim — Party With Friends You Haven’t Met Yet

September 18th, 2011

Life’s not worth living if you can’t 1) eat, and 2) party with a few thousand friends who you haven’t met yet. Such is the life in the town of Hardheim in northern Baden-Württemberg, bordering Bavaria.

A number of festivals take place in Hardheim, which will give you the chance to introduce yourself to your new found friends.

The Joseph Market in the middle of March pretty much kicks off all the events, then the Summer Festival comes along in mid-June. October is a real festive kind of month, with the Thanksgiving Festival on October’s 1st weekend and the Wendelinus Market just about two weeks later; and the Christmas Fair takes place on the first weekend of December.

Even if you don’t get a chance to meet everyone in town during one of the festivals at least you’ll eat good. And I don’t want to hear anything about calories and fat grams. Just go walk or cycle it off in the Odenwald or along the Hardheimer Mühlenweg.

You could always just take a guided Brewery Tour, which follows along to all the old breweries in Hardheim. Oh yeah, food and beer, now that makes life worth living.

Of course, drinking too much before hiking or cycling around the Odenwald, more specifically the Nature Park Neckar Odenwald, wouldn’t really be a good idea.

If you’re more interested in the historical side of Hardheim, I can tell you about that too. Everything should kick off at the Hardheimer Schloss, built in 1561. The moat is gone, the original use of the castle is gone — as it’s now the town’s Rathaus, or Town Hall building.

The other historical site to see is the Steinerne Turm, or Stony Tower, which was the dungeon of an old castle. And we all know that if you were imprisoned in one of those, you sure weren’t eating all that well.

I’d bet money that the Romans and the Celts that used to call this land home even ate better.

Told you life wasn’t worth living if you couldn’t eat. ;-)

Sohland an der Spree — From The Forest To The Heavens

September 18th, 2011

The 37 square kilometer town of Sohland an der Spree reads like a what’s what of German geography. You’ll find this 37 square kilometer town a mere stone’s throw from the Czech border in the Bautzen District (the town of Bautzen is only 15km north) of the Upper Lusatia region of Saxony.

I’m so precise about it because there’s a (smaller) town with the same name nearby — Sohland am Rotstein, just 32km or 45 minutes east.

Back to Sohland an der Spree, you can look to the heavens at the Bruno Bürgel Observatory (called a Sternwarte). Oh, I think I see Saturn! ;-)

You’ll also see Saturn at the Planetenweg, or Planet Trail. 4.2km of planetary education, accompanied by tour offers, will make the whole family happy.

The observatory and the Planetenweg aren’t the only ways to see how our solar system works. The sun is a pretty accurate way of telling time, which is what you’ll learn about at the Sonnenuhrendorf; a neat and very interesting place totally devoted to the sundial.

And if the Milky Way references aren’t enough, even Sohland’s landmark is named the Himmelsbrücke (Sky Bridge). This late 18th century bridge makes a romantic spot for a kiss. Heck, it’s charming enough that someone should turn its picture into a jigsaw puzzle.

Sohland’s even got two museums to visit while you’re here pondering the sun & stars. One is the Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum), the other the Oberlausitzer Forstmuseum (Upper Lusatian Forestry Museum).

The forest is where you’ll also take in a forest theater performance. Just consider it another outdoor activity like lumbering along the cross country trails, cycling paths, tobogganing, and skiing.

To make your trip even better, come for the Harvest Festival at the end of September. But, if you miss it — it’s OK, you’ll still enjoy yourself.

Edermünde Is Quiet, Subdued, And Fantastic

September 18th, 2011

Yes, I’m famous around these webpages for yelling from the rooftops shouting about how fantastic every single German town is. Well, at least almost all of ’em. I will, however, not shout from the rafters about the Hessian town of Edermünde.

A bit more restraint is necessary.

No, Edermünde isn’t like some fuddy-duddy town, or anything like that. It’s just a quiet, subdued, kind of place. See? Shouting not really necessary — and not even desired!

Not a lot happens around here, or at least anymore. Back during World War II a number of air raids rocked the town, and many of its residents took shelter in the Grifte Church.

Before you ask, what kind of protection could a church offer during an air raid — I’ll tell you. The Grifte Church has underground tunnels, which at one point protected 2,000 people (at one time) from an air raid.

The history of Edermünde is probably better left to the professionals at the Local History Museum (in a historic building known as the Hirtenhaus) in the village of Haldorf, or the Village Museum over in the village of Holzhausen.

Don’t care about history? It’s all right, not everyone does. Some people much rather be out in the fresh air, for which there’s plenty in the Habichtswald, a nature park with something for everyone — including history lovers with its Castle Wilhelmshöhe, and nature lovers with its local flora & fauna.

For a bit of silly fun, have a “treasure hunt” to see who can find the Hünstein of Großenritte, a huge piece of quartz that’s more than five thousand years old. I wonder if they’ll let me hack off a piece for a ring?

Sorry, did I just put that in print? Just kidding, People of Edermünde. ;-)

No worries if you get hungry hacking off chunks of quartz (I mean sightseeing around town). There are plenty of BBQ huts around for a picnic, or just grab some grub at the local pizzeria.

Yes, I just suggested grabbing a slice of pizza. Time is of the essence, ya know… You still got to check out the tennis courts and the nearby Aqua Park. The cool thing about the Aqua Park, is its retractable roof — which closes during inclement weather, and is one of the largest in the entire region.

See, no yelling from the top of any roof about Edermünde. A simple, quiet webpage will do.

Rodalben — Comfy Shoes Required In The Palatinate

September 18th, 2011

There ain’t nothing in the world like a comfy, perfect fittin’ pair of shoes. How many of you out there come home from a hard day’s work, not wanting to do anything but kick your footwear? I’m guessing a pretty big number of you do.

What’s this all got to do with Rodalben?

Like you didn’t see me leading in to the German Shoe Route (or the Deutsche Schuhstraße) with all that talk about, uh, shoes?

Regardless of Rodalben’s location along the Shoe Route (at one point there were over 60 shoe making factories around here), I will tell you this much — you better gosh-darn well better bring your most comfortable pair while you’re here.

Because if you don’t, you’ll be moanin’, groanin’, complainin’, and kvetchin’ the entire time you’re on the 43km Felsenwanderweg — which is a hiking trail along some really interesting natural rock formations in this part of the Palatinate.

Plus, getting to 447-meters above sea-level to see the Burg Gräfenstein ruins (sorry, it’s partially restored) won’t be a cake walk. You’ll really want to see this 13th century castle, (it’s believed the “keep” is actually a century older than the rest of the Burg) that once belonged to the Hohenstaufens — and was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War.

Burg Gräfenstein might be old, but it isn’t as old as the 11th century (OK, maybe 12th century — no one’s too sure) Romanesque Church of St. Mary; although the tower wasn’t built until the 18th century — and the church underwent Gothic architecture “remodeling” in the 14th century.

Feet hurt yet? Can’t say I didn’t warn you what to wear. ;-)

Don’t worry if your feet are achin’, you’re almost done moseying along Rodalben.

You just can’t call it quits before you’ve seen the old Jewish cemetery (a culturally protected area that dates back to the late 19th century), finding at least one hiking trail within the Palatinate Forest, and visiting the Johann-Peter-Frank-Haus (he was Napoleon’s and a Russian Tsar’s doctor who founded the Vienna Institute of Hygiene).

That’s quite a journey from Rodalben’s Celtic origins, I would say. And I also said you’d need comfy shoes to enjoy the place — and I was right about that, wasn’t I?

Namborn — A Smuggler’s Path In the Saarland

September 18th, 2011

It isn’t all about history when visiting Namborn in the Saarland. Which, by the way, should be your first clue that this traditionally German town of 10 villages was once ruled by the French.

When I say it isn’t all about history, I’m misleading. Because without appreciating the history surrounding the area — well, you won’t appreciate the area.

The area that is today’s Namborn is much older than just its French ruled history. In fact, over in the village of Furschweiler excavations have found a Roman Villa, both Celtic and Roman cemeteries (actually it was a mass Roman grave to be more precise), and artifacts dating to around 4000 B.C.

Think about that while you’re off enjoying the nearby swimming areas where you can also surf, go rowing, canoeing, paddle boating, or diving.

I ain’t done with the historical side of Namborn yet, so keep your swimtrunks on. Or, shall I say keep your hiking boots on because you’ll need them to go see the Liebenburg ruins.

Not much remains of the Liebenburg Castle though. Its tower was recreated in the 1970s — some three hundred years after the 12th century castle was destroyed in 1677. Too bad, the only thing that remains of the castle (commissioned by the Grafen von Castel in 1170) is parts of its dungeon and cistern.

You might actually be looking at parts of the castle and not even know it. Its stones were quarried to make other buildings after the Dutch leveled it.

When you’re done with the Burg ruins, take the 12km Smuggler’s Path through the countryside. Better yet, take a guided hiking tour around the area to learn more about all the contraband that used to make its way in & around the area.

Of course, if you’d much rather just party your little heart out, don’t let me stop you. You’ll find four Kirmes festivals (one in May, one in July, and two in August), as well as the annual Advent Market at the end of November.

Oh, I guess I should have said without history AND its festivals, you wouldn’t appreciate the wonderful town of Namborn.

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