In Geeste, Life Revolves Around the Speichersee

August 1st, 2010

I’m convinced that, in Geeste, life doesn’t revolve around its marketplace like in most other places in Germany. No, life centers around the town’s lake.

Wait, here me out. I’m not saying that Geeste doesn’t have its fair share of historical sites and other places to visit. Quite the contrary, it’s just that the lake is a bustle of town activity.

Besides having its own Stone Age grave hills, its St. Nikolaus Church is over 800 years old, for crying out loud. And, the Ems Country Moorland Museum can be explored either by foot or bike. It’s an outdoor museum that explains the natural history of the moorlands, in case you didn’t catch that.

There are also plenty of other bicycle and walking paths through Geeste and the Emsland countryside; passing by the town’s historical oil pump and by the Drinking Water Path, where you can learn about how drinking and waste water is processed.

Oh, almost forgot about the Herbhof; a place of peace and tranquility; and breakfast with a good cup of coffee.

There’s also the chapel Jesus, Brot des Lebens, a chapel that was built to look like a traditional bake house in the Heseper Moorlands, located right at the Autobahn A31. Don’t let the old style building fool you, though, it was only built in 2000.

But, it’s the Speichersee Geeste where most activity takes place. The lake itself is relatively a good size, so there’s no chance of running into anyone out on the water windsurfing, sailing, or swimming. Surrounding the water is a beach volleyball court, a playground for the kids, a number of bicycle routes (with a bike rental shop), a halfpipe for skaters, a cafe, campgrounds, and vacation homes. Phew, that’s a lot, isn’t it?

Speichersee Geeste is also where the town holds its Kite Celebration. See how easy it is to think that Geeste’s life revolves around the marketplace?

Gardelegen Is Complex And Worth Getting To Know Better

August 1st, 2010

It’s a fine line to walk in writing about a town like Gardelegen in the Altmark region. It’s a town more than a thousand years old, the site of an unspeakable tragedy less than a century ago, the home town of a well liked German entertainer, and they got a 700 year old beer.

Yeah, how to do you sum that up?

I’ll give it a good try.

Just as many medieval German towns there are a few reminders of life back during those days. You’ll find them in places like St. Spiritus, not a church per se, but a hospital that opened its doors in 1285.

Gardelegen’s City Hall originally opened its doors to assist the town’s citizens in 1241. Around that same time, right?

Even older is St. Marien’s Church built in 1200, in the popular Romanesque style of its day. A century later St. Nikolai came along, created in the then popular Gothic style. It is churches like these that keep bringing visitors to towns like Gardelegen year after year.

Stop over at the Salzwedeler Tor and its Gate Guards, part of the town’s original defense fortification. No proper medieval town was without one. But, not all of them had their own Roland; Gardelegen did.

A statue of Sir Roland in a market or church square was a medieval symbol that the town was a “free town.” Gardelegen’s Roland was erected in 1450 and he collapsed almost 300 years later in 1727. Roland didn’t make another appearance until 2002; where he is proudly displayed.

A lot of Gardelegen’s history can be learned over at the Local History Museum. Here you can learn about Gardelegen Beer, a brew that’s been going strong for 700 years. If a place that’s been making something that long, it’s gotta be good stuff — so try it.

Gardelegen’s history also has a much darker side. In April 1945, Nazi SS officers killed over a thousand prisoners of war. Before all the bodies of those men were buried in a mass grave, U.S. troops occupied the town and saw what had been done at the local Isenschnibber Feldscheune (a barn) and brought one of the perpetrators to be tried for war crimes.

With the local residents and the United States military working together, all were given a proper burial; now known as the Gardelegen Military Cemetery.

Buried in another cemetery is Otto Reutter. Mr. Reutter was a late 19th – early 20th century entertainer. He was considered a very private man who when he retired just wanted to return back to his boyhood home. There’s a monument from the town to this famous local boy who made good.

Summing up a town as complex and historical as Gardelegen isn’t an easy task; but, it is worth getting to know a bit better.

Gundelfingen (Breisgau) — No Way You’ll Go Hungry Here!

August 1st, 2010

Gundelfingen is a town just north of Freiburg in the Breisgau region that was likely created all the way back in the 4th century.

So, it’s not a shock that Gundelfingen has a castle. Well, it did at one time. Burg Zähringen now lies in ruins and is one of the town’s most popular tourist attractions.

Since Gundelfingen is also in the Black Forest, the best place for you to be is outside.

The town has many old framework style buildings while you’re out wandering around town. Wood carving and cuckoo clocks are quite famous for and lovingly made in the Black Forest area, so check out any and all specialty shops.

There are also lots of walking and cycling paths that will take you through heavily forested areas or wide open tree lined lanes. Choice is yours, but either way you can’t go wrong.

Keep a look out for the Black Forest cattle, foxes, eagles, owls, and a giant earthworm that’s only indigenous to this area.

Being indoors is only a good idea if you’re spending the day at the Obermattenbad, an indoor pool with its own little cafe.

With so much to do around Gundelfingen a day visit isn’t long enough; good thing there are a few inns around town. Gasthaus Grüner Baum is a charming place with flowerbox lined porches and its restaurant serves delicious regional specialties.

Black forest regional specialties include Black Forest cake and ham, but try another regional dish known as Flammkuchen; a dough dish made with ham, cheese, and cream.

And while you’re still outside, the town also throws one great Fastnacht festival right before Lent.

Gundelfingen’s Hotel Laube will surprise you. It’s a quaint timber framed building on the outside and you’ll find ultra modern sleek and chic rooms on the inside. Laube’s restaurant also serves scrumptious regional dishes; so there’s no way anyone will go hungry in this town!

Gangelt Is Not A King’s Town Anymore

August 1st, 2010

Gangelt lies in the western most region of Germany on the border with the Netherlands with Celtic origins and was once considered “King’s Property.” Say what? That just means that some old crusty king was the only one with rights to what happened to the area.

Add in that the town’s made up of seventeen local hamlets (some with less than 50 residents) and you’ve got yourself an area that’s interesting to say the least.

When you come to Gangelt, you’ll want to see the Museumsmühle Breberen, a windmill that still works after a 150 years. You’ll also want to hop a ride on the Selfkantbahn; old railway cars that trek on for about 38 km and acts like a railway museum.

Visitors often go see the Village & Fire Brigade Museum with exhibits on Gangelt’s history; including World War II memorabilia.

Another look at Gangelt’s history is to visit the medieval side of the town. There are the old City Gates, as well as parts of the original defense walls called a Stadtmauer. Gangelt boasts a stunning example of medieval architecture with its town church and a castle “donjon.” There’s also a very early Middle Ages framework castle hill to visit.

After all that sightseeing you’ve probably worked up an appetite. One such specialty is some sort of farmer’s cheese produced locally in one of the town’s factories. Another is some sort of sweet cake, making a perfect dessert (or snack).

During Gangelt’s many festivals and markets you can eat a lot more of Westphalian delicacies, including the Nikolaus Market on the 1st Advent (think four weeks before Christmas), Beach Night, and even the Town Celebration.

Gangelt even offers some sporting activities to keep everyone busy, like miniature golf and swimming in the town’s outdoor pool.

The town of Gangelt might have once been under some German king’s domain, but now it’s a town that anyone and everyone can enjoy.

Graben-Neudorf — Asparagus Is The King’s Vegetable

August 1st, 2010

Sometimes to get a real feel or flavor for a town doesn’t always mean just visiting ancient sites, wandering around medieval churches, or even checking out an imposing castle fortress. Sometimes, it’s the food that will give you the most authentic feel for a place.

Graben-Neudorf, a town that’s been around since the 5th or 6th century A.D., does have some historical sites to see. How could it not, it’s between Mannheim and Karlsruhe; and the place does have remnants of an Ancient Roman Road that’s still visible after almost two millennia.

But, it’s a vegetable that makes the town truly famous. What veggie is that you ask? Asparagus. No, really, I’m not kidding.

Growing season in this part of Baden-Württemberg for green or white asparagus is in the Spring from April to June. You’ll find this little respected veggie on menus (and on the tables of everyday homes) across the region.

Any German cook worth their weight in salt knows that lemon juice is added to the white variety to keep its white color and sugar is added to the water for both varieties to reduce any bitterness. Yes, this is the “REAL” Germany — alive and well on dinner tables in the town of Graben-Neudorf.

So important is this vegetable (and was once known as the King’s Vegetable) that Graben-Neudorf lies on the Badische Spargelstraße, the Asparagus Road that passes along many area attractions through the Baden countryside.

That would be including many monument protected houses and the old Protestant Church. After the Orleans War with France in 1688, most of the village and the town’s castle was destroyed.

Now, the village that once had only 42 residents left after the Thirty Years’ War in 1648, is a thriving agricultural town and surrounded by nature parks with large towering Oak trees that make the best shade for a picnic. Just don’t forget to pack an asparagus dish! ;-)

Geisenheim — Wine, Castles, And Cathedrals All Over The Place

August 1st, 2010

Geisenheim is a town that’s known by a variety of interesting names; it’s known as Wine Town, School Town, Cathedral Town, and Lime Tree Town (there’s one in front of he Town Hall that’s over 700 years old). That’s a lot for a small Hessian town with not even 12,000 residents.

The wine moniker is rightfully fitting, since you’ll see vineyards as far as the eye can see. Schloss Johannisberg, a HUGE wine growing estate, has one of the largest vineyards around.

For you wineophiles, a colored cap on the bottle is an indication of what kind of wine it is, including one type known as “Late Vintage” which is green.

Right deadsmack in the middle of all the grapevines is a stele for the 50th parallel. Johannisberg also has its own basilica with beautiful art from the 14th through 20th centuries.

There are a few other palaces, burgs, and schlosses around Geisenheim. Palasi Ostein is from the 18th century, Schloss Kosakenberg from the 17th century (now a winery and restaurant), Schloss Schönborn was built in 1550, and the the 17th century Zwierlein Palace (with a Baroque Park) is now an apartment building. But, hands down it’s the 19th century Villa Monrepos that will totally knock your socks off.

Rheingau Cathedral might do that, too. The original nave of the church was built in the 1500’s, but the church underwent major renovations a few centuries later. Rheingau Cathedral is where you’ll go to enjoy some musical entertainment during the Rheingau Music Festival.

Concerts are also held at Schloss Johannisberg and other venues across Geisenheim.

That isn’t the only party Geisenheim throws. On the second weekend in July is the Geisenheimer Lindenfest and on the first weekend in September is some sort of “Grape Festival.”

No matter what you call Geisenheim (Wine Town, Castle Town, etc), one thing is for sure — you’re bound to call your stay one hellava good time!

Glückstadt Is Lucky, All Thanks To A Danish King

July 31st, 2010

When you come to the city of Glückstadt you should give thanks to King Christian IV. He was the Danish king (yeah, go figure) who created what’s known as “Luck City” on the marshlands of the Elbe River.

While Glückstadt is a thriving city in the far north of Germany, it has come a long way from its days as a whaling town and hocking its sugar, salt, and oil wares. Now, one of the biggest hits in town is a herring dish known as Glückstädter Matjes.

This modern day Glückstadt embraces its history; which is evident by the way it has taken care of its old buildings and palaces.

The Detlefsen Museum is housed in one of the oldest buildings in the city, the Bridge House was built in 1635, there’s the Wasmer and Brockdorff Palaces. And, the Aristocracy Palace right on the port doubled as a women’s prison during the 2nd World War.

On Glückstadt’s Marktplatz, there are (of course) more historical buildings including the town’s church which was built in 1618 and housed with art from many different centuries.

The Marktplatz is also where locals and visitors alike go to enjoy an opera under the stars or, any number of other events.

One of the most famous is the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival. Every summer the entire federal state gets involved by putting on classical music concerts in all sorts of venues; from churches to castles, and even barns! Don’t balk at the barn thing, the music festival isn’t internationally famous for nothing! ;-)

Even if there isn’t a concert going on, visitors to Luck City will have enough to keep anyone busy. Being so close to the water and the North Sea, there’s fishing and sailing. But, for keeping your feet on terra firma, there’s beach volleyball, Nordic Walking trails, as well as regular old walking and biking paths (for which Glückstadt is on the Elbe Cycle Route).

Everyone who comes here really does need to thank King Christian, the Danish King who made this German city pretty darn awesome.

Ladenburg — Home Of Benz And Ambitious Romans

July 28th, 2010

In the middle of Heidelberg and Mannheim is the ancient and utterly beautiful town of Ladenburg, another obligatory stop on the Bertha Benz Memorial Route. If anything, Ladenburg is an enterprising town.

In case you’re not familiar, Mrs. Benz rode through the Baden countryside in her husband’s patented prototype, Benz Patent-Motorwagen #3. Her husband, Dr. Karl Benz (is the name Benz ringing a bell to anyone?) is considered the inventor of the automobile.

Dr. Benz moved to Landenburg in 1906 and just like his cars, he knew a good thing when he saw it.

Long before automobiles, the Romans set up shops here. They had a weekly market, built a theater, and soaked in hot springs. They also put up a Jupitergigantensäule in the middle of town, just a good hundred years after the birth of this amazing town. The one there now with Athena, Juno, Mercury, and Hercules on the base is a reproduction. There is even a remainder of the Roman’s original military wall. Ambitious fellows they were!

Ladenburg also has a medieval Old Town area, with a Marienstatue on the Marktplatz, the old Martinstor (a gate in/out of the walled town), its Hexenturm (known as Witches Tower in English), and its Stadtmauer (part of a defense wall) — and all so graciously maintained you’ll think it was built just the other week.

There’s also the Sebastianskapelle, a local Protestant “Chapel,” and the Church of St. Gallus; with a crypt that goes all the way back to the 11th century, to visit. Plus, lots of timber framed houses scattered throughout the old part of town.

Wow, seems like a lot to see indeed; and the Ladenburg local history museum does its best to sum up a lot of its history.

For something a bit modern, check out the Auto Museum (seems fitting to have one here), or take a bicycle ride out on the Neckartal Cycle Track, that goes along the Neckar River.

Or, stick to the little streets and lanes of the old and new part of town like I personally enjoy doing whenever I’m here.

Oh, forget the bicycles and go rent a Benz, it’ll make Dr. Karl proud! ;-)

Here’s a Special Tip: After you’ve got your good fill of Ladenburg’s culture and history, go eat a delicious steak (served on a hot stone) in the restaurant Die Kartoffel (Kirchenstraße 3). It’s not only one of my top favorites but also frequently visited and enjoyed by countless US Americans and other international guests.

Lauenburg (Elbe) — A Duke With Good Taste

July 27th, 2010

800 years ago the town of Lauenburg (Elbe) was just a small fishing village in the southern most part of Schleswig-Holstein (and once belonged to King George of Great Britain). If you stand on the banks of the River Elbe and look south, what you’ll actually see is northern Lower Saxony.

Actually, for the most amazing view it’s worth the effort to climb up to the old Lauenburger Schloss. The view of the town, the river, and the surrounding region will render you completely speechless. If it doesn’t, you’re one tough cookie. ;-)

The castle today acts as a city administration building but, the oldest part of the Schloss (including its tower) dates back to around 1477.

Another oldie but goodie is the Prince Garden & Grotto. The garden part was created back in 1590 by Duke Franz II and changed to a Baroque style with exotic plants in 1656 by a guy named Duke Julius. This park is just so amazingly pretty, you gotta hand it the guy — he had really good taste.

Follow the Elbestraße to the most historical part of town, as well. You’ll pass many half timbered buildings that date from the 16th through 19th centuries; including the oldest house in all of Lauenburg. Mensing House officially dates to 1573, but there’s a date of 1513 carved on a beam over the front door.

Also on the Elbestraße is the Elbschiffahrtsmuseum; a museum totally dedicated to the town’s sailing and navigation history. Which might also explain the symbolic “Rufer” on the Ruferplatz. Once a fortnight (from May to September) the 100 year old steamship Emperor Wilhelm takes a ride out on the river. Consider yourself mighty lucky if you get a chance to take a ride out on the ship.

Still, nothing in Lauenburg is as old as the Maria Magdalenen Church. Although it might have been built back in 1227, most of the church’s artwork comes from the 17th century.

As if walking around town on the Elbestraße isn’t enough, follow the Elbwanderweg for a 4 km trek around the River Elbe. The view here is certainly impressive as well; just like the entire town itself.

Now you’re quite happy that I’m not speechless, aren’t you? ;-)

Lehre — Some Memories Last Longer Than A Box Of Chocolate

July 27th, 2010

In the Academy Award winning movie Forest Gump one of the most popular lines is “Life is like a box of chocolates, you’ll never know what you’re gonna get.”

The same could be said for any time you come out of your comfort zone and travel. This is why I’m here to help you, so when you travel to the small town of Lehre in Lower Saxony, there won’t be any surprises.

First, there are no hotels in Lehre. If you want to spend a few days, you’ll be able to book a rustic inn, a quaint guesthouse, or a regular old hotel in either Brunswick or Wolfsburg; both of which are about 15 minutes away.

Secondly, what most visitors come in this neck of the woods for are the castles (and the zoo & windmill, but I’ll get to that).

Burg Campen might now be private property, but you’re still able to visit the outside of this old caslte. To be honest, it doesn’t look like a traditional castle, more like an oversized 2-story timber framed building. For an interesting piece of castle life, look for the castles medieval privy. The original castle might not have had indoor plumbing, but hey, at least they tried.

The second of Lehre’s castles is the Baroque styled Schloss Essenrode with its English style garden. Built in 1738, the castle has only been owned by three families in its 300 year history.

It is Schloss Wendhausen that steals the show, however. Schloss Wendhausen is a 14th century creation with its own moat and shaded by large lush street and ivy climbing the walls. It’s inner courtyard and Baroque Garden make a great contrast to the forest like landscape surrounding the outside.

After a day of wandering around old draughty castles, chances are the kids will love visiting the Tierpark Essenhof. This small zoo has a lot of both domestic and foreign animals, as well as exotic plant exhibits from Africa, Australia, and South America. Consider it a United Nations of flora, fauna, and all things furry! :-)

After visiting this place you might not have any surprises about Lehre, but your memories of it will last longer than any box of chocolate.

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