Linkenheim-Hochstetten — German Town Without Tourism

July 27th, 2010

In 1975 the two independent towns of Linkenheim and Hochstetten fell in love with each other and got married. Being only about 15 minutes north of Karlsruhe and close to the French border, both enjoy a long history in their own right.

Linkenheim alone has been around for more than 1200 years, as it was founded in 777 A.D. Hochstetten isn’t nearly quite as old, only having been around since 1103 A.D. Although, a half millennia doesn’t seem like such a long time in the grand scheme of things.

Even though Linkenheim-Hochstetten has been around for centuries, you’re not going to find much to do here. Even the town’s home page doesn’t provide a section for “Tourism” or “Recreation.” You’ll find just everyday working stiffs that maintain a well-kept town and go fishing. Of course, getting around by bicycle is just a good idea as any.

Most of the really great historical sightseeing is to be done in Karlsruhe (including its palace and historic churches). But, Linkenheim-Hochstetten has a few small motel type guesthouses; which are a good idea if you don’t want to pay top Euro for a city hotel.

Maybe it’s all right there isn’t a lot to do in this town, it’ll give you lots of time to eat. Small little German towns like these are a good way to enjoy real rustic downhome cooking, like Blutwurst or Springerle (a molded Christmas cookie made with anise).

Since the area is a huge producer of asparagus, you’ll find it on many menus during the Spring when it’s harvested; sometimes cooked with a bit of sugar in the water to reduce any bitter taste. Wash it all down with a healthy glass of a Riesling wine (again, locally made in the area).

If anyone asks you what you did when you visited Linkenheim-Hochstetten (aside from being a hard to spell & remember name), you can tell them you ate and drank yourself one heck of a good time. ;-)

Kloster Lehnin — What’s In A Name?

July 27th, 2010

The town of Kloster Lehnin is kind of misleading. It DOES have a Kloster or, in English, a monastery; but the name leads you to believe that all there is in this Brandenburg town. And nothing could be further from the truth.

But, let’s not get it twisted; the Lehnin Abbey is one of the most visited sites in town. Built back in 1180, it’s one of the oldest monasteries in the region and after falling into ruins, many of the Gothic buildings in the complex were restored in the 1870’s.

Religion was (and in some cases still is) a large part of daily life and in each of Kloster Lehnin’s thirteen hamlets, you’ll find a village church; one dates back to the 12th century; but most are designed in a Baroque style. Even the old Baroque gravestones in the old cemetery are interesting pieces of art in their own right.

Eating and drinking is still a huge part of daily life and Kloster Lehnin has a museum dedicated to baking. There are old outside brick ovens to see and an annual baking celebration; and an old distillery to visit.

Kloster Lehnin has an interesting farming museum with a look into agricultural life from the 1870’s to around 1950. They must grow a lot of gourds (think pumpkins & the like), they’re needed for the yearly Kürbisfest; a two day festival in September with concerts and artwork created out of the veggies.

The natural side of Kloster Lehnin is really pretty, too. Over near Rietzer See in a bird sanctuary there’s an observation tower that overlooks the countryside. It’s even possible to swim in the lakes that surround the town.

The town’s rolling green hills are simply stunning and whoever built the early 18th century Schloss Reckahn was lucky enough to wake up to the view everyday.

Now you can see, that the town is so much more than just the monastery that shares its name.

Kronshagen Is Perfect Just The Way It Is

July 27th, 2010

It’s hard to think of Kronshagen without thinking of its largest neighbor, Kiel. They’ve been intricately linked for centuries (even once ruled by the King of Denmark), and the large capital city borders the town on three sides. Ottendorf is the odd one out, sitting on the western border of town.

Don’t go looking for an old city hall or any medieval castle (no Renaissance or Baroque ones either), Kronshagen doesn’t have them; neither does it have any historic guesthouses or inns. It has only one hotel, a large 87 room budget facility with a 24-hour coffee/tea bar, offers buffet breakfast, and it’s close to bus stops and train station.

As you can probably see, Kronshagen is a place where everyday folks get up, go to work, play plenty of sports to relax, and get up to do it all over again.

But, that also means you’ll find real rustic down home cooking too. This is where you’ll find rich and hearty meals made with potatoes and cabbage that will stick to your ribs (come during the winter and you’ll understand why). But, during the summer try a local snack called Rote Grütze, made with berries and sugar served with custard.

Work off all that good eating by renting a bicycle and riding off on any one of the bicycle trails that spoke out through town.

Kronshagen isn’t totally devoid of any culture, though. There are art exhibits in the town’s City Hall and an annual Folk Festival held in the beginning of September. There’s also a star gazing observatory that opens at 7pm on clear nights from October to March.

Plus, it’s right close to the Baltic Sea, which is great for swimming or for anyone just wanting to be close to the water. And it’s a nice place to stay during the annual Kiel Week, one of the largest sailing events on the planet.

Big deal that Kronshagen doesn’t have an overabundance of all things historic. It’s great enough just the way it is.

Zwönitz In The Ore Mountains Deserves To Be Considered

July 27th, 2010

Zwönitz in the wooden Ore Mountains might not be your first pick in choosing a place to stay in Germany. However, the town has been welcoming visitors for centuries; including many medieval travelers making their way on the old Salt Route or coming from places like the Czech Republic (which isn’t too far away).

They stayed at what was once the only hotel in town, the Hotel Roß, that’s been welcoming weary travelers since 1537. Hotel Roß has been updated with the most modern conveniences but it still has its original framework construction (making it an area attraction). It’s the oldest hotel in all of Saxony and a place where you can sit back and enjoy a drink in its cobblestoned beer garden.

Right outside the hotel’s front door is another of Zwönitz’s attractions, a granite post office mile marker that was put here in 1727.

Another interesting attraction is a stone baking oven from 1585 that still works. So does the town’s paper mill from 1568 (now a museum of sorts) that’s one of the oldest mills of its type still functioning. Medieval German engineering was sure built to last!

The town’s Trinitatiskirche might not be a medieval creation (built in a Baroque style), but again, German engineering has kept it standing since the 18th century.

Most of Zwönitz’s history can be learned at the local history museum and the town’s Austel Mansion is overflowing with artwork, coins, stamps, and other collectibles.

You’d think a town this small wouldn’t have too many cultural activities (being only about a half hour southwest of Chemnitz), you’d think you might have to go to a big city — but, that’s not the case! Zwönitz has many musical, theater, and film performances throughout the year.

Can’t forget about the town’s Hallenbad, either. For only about 2.50 Euro, you can enjoy a day swimming in the indoor pool or relaxing tired muscles in its sauna.

So, Zwönitz might not be your first choice for a German destination, but with a town this charming and historic — it deserves to at least be on your top ten list of supplemental places to consider.

Zetel — Find Your Artistic Muse By A Cup Of East Frisian Tean

July 27th, 2010

Welcome to Zetel, a Lower Saxon town where you can enjoy a Jever beer, tea from East Frisia, and topography high enough not to get slammed by North Sea storm tides.

If you look at it like that, you’d reckon there would be nothing else to do up here in the very north of Germany.

Not so! Many folks are captivated by “Dutchman” windmills and Zetel has one of the last commercial working ones in the entire country.

Then, there’s Zetel’s castle, the Neuenburger Schloss. The 15th century castle is now a museum and the site for many weddings. Many little girls dream of getting married in a fairytale castle and Neuenburger certainly fits the bill.

A few centuries older than the castle is the oldest building in all of Zetel, the church of St. Martin. This huge church was completed in 1249 and has been a source of pride for more than 750 years.

The town also has a school museum, known as the Northwest German School Museum. Go ahead, mess with the kids and tell them they gotta go to school on summer vacation! ;-)

Zetel is really proud of its cultural activities, too. Over at the Vereenshuus (you gotta love that north German dialect), locals and visitors alike can enjoy any number of theater performances.

The Moorlands and the seaside must be an artistic muse because you’ll find a lot of local artwork, especially in the Gallery Southern Friesland and during the Neuenburger Art Weeks where many artists come to strut their stuff.

In November there’s the Zeteler Markt, the largest in all of Frisia. The market lasts for four days with a chance to buy anything and everything (including cattle).

When you’re done shopping, visiting museums, or checking out art galleries get out in the Moorlands with a bicycle or your own two feet. Lower Saxony is a place that’s best enjoyed outside and Zetel is just perfect to do it.

Maybe you’ll get lucky and find your artistic muse? :-)

Dossenheim — A Simple Small German Town? Not Really!

July 27th, 2010

Visitors to Dossenheim will find it to be just a simple small German town on first sight, only a stone’s throw north the city of Heidelberg, on the Bergstrasse and Bertha Benz Memorial Route, linking on to the Odenwald.

Now that you put it like that, Dossenheim doesn’t seem so simple. Just for the record, it does have an old historic City Hall (not to be confused with the new one) that houses Dossenheim’s Local History Museum.

For other sightseeing adventures, there are the ruins of the Schauenburg. This menacing castle was built around 1100 A.D was destroyed in the 15th century.

The Dossenheimer countryside is totally delightful and the lookout tower on Weißer Stein is just the right place to see it. It’s one of the highest points in the Odenwald, so you’re able to see for quite some distance.

There’s more to Dossenheim than just its castle ruins and dazzling countryside; it does have a few festivals that bring this town to life. The 3rd weekend in September brings on the Dossenheimer Kerwe, a street festival that’s a just a food and wine filled good time.

So is the Sommertagszug (Summer Festival) and add in great shopping at the Christmas Market at the beginning of December.

Dossenheim is a town with quaint little outside cafes and rustic restaurants. Over at the Goldener Hirsch, you’ll get both real down-home German cuisine, as well a variety of international specialties. Goldener Hirsch has also been a local inn for over a century, so if you’re looking to spend a few nights look no further.

Although, the Hotel Heidelberger Gate’s also been around almost as long and offers any visitor economical accommodations that include a large buffet breakfast.

It is a good idea to spend a few nights in the area of Dossenheim. This way you’re able to take your time visiting around town, hiking (or cycling) around the Odenwald, or even venturing over to the city of Heidelberg.

Simple small German town? I don’t think so.

Pfarrkirchen — Famous For Racing, Churches, And Old Town Halls

July 25th, 2010

Pfarrkirchen (or Parson Churches in English) is a town with only about 12,000 residents within Lower Bavaria that’s famous for two things.

One, a Pilgrimage Church (known as the Gartlbergkirche) that’s been a site for the devout since it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary when it was built in the 1660’s. The second, horse racing. Oh, I know, talk about two opposite ends of the spectrum!

Pfarrkirchen is the site of the oldest harness racing track in all of Germany. Harness racing is like the “Kentucky Derby” style of racing with the jockey on the horses back, it’s the type where they ride on little carts “harnessed” to the animal. There’s a huge race known as Trabrennbahn that takes place on the track every Whitsuntide (about 40 days or so after Easter).

Horse breeding’s big here, too. That’s why there’s a “black” stallion bronze statue known as Wimmer Roß right in the middle of the town square.

Which is where you’ll also find Pfarrkirchen’s Old City Hall. It’s the “Old” one because it was built back in the 1500’s and there’s no confusing it with the “New” one. Ironic, since the newer one is pretty old itself (1865).

One of the oldest places in all of Pfarrkirchen is the church of Sts. Simon and Judas Thaddäus. The old church from the early 14th century was originally designed in Romanesque style but when the Gothic style became popular afterwards, the church was “updated.”

Just as churches are filled with many works of art, so is the Hans-Reiffenstuel-Haus. Mr. Reiffenstuel was a local painter and after his death his widow donated more than 1,700 pieces of his work to the town.

I guess I was wrong. Pfarrkirchen is so much more famous than just two things; there’s a lot more to the town of “Parson Churches” than meets the eye.

Peiting — King Ludwig II Loved It And So Will You

July 25th, 2010

When you come to Peiting in Upper Bavaria know that you’ll be in a town not only with the most beautiful natural surroundings like emerald green pastures or dense forest; but some of the most stunning buildings (ranging from the medieval to Baroque & Rocco) ever built.

Peiting is proud of its many churches, including its St. Michael’s Church that’s a mid-11th century original. There’s also the Weiskirche, a pilgrimage church from the 1740’s. Another pilgrimage church is St. Maria’s that was built in 1645 and another St. Michael’s; this one a Romanesque basilica that plays music by Schubert & Mozart concerts in the summer.

Not only is Peiting a place of many religious sites, it does have Roman ruins in the form of the Villa Rustica. Those Romans really got around, but they weren’t even the first to call this place home. Archaeological digs have found that Bronze Age men and women used to live here.

However, beauty is subjective though a gracious plenty will wholeheartedly agree that no place is more beautiful than the Neuschwanstein Castle. Oh, you know the one. You gotta hand to King Ludwig II of Bavaria who built this HUGE castle with his buddy Richard Wagner (the composer) in mind. So spectacular is Neuschwanstein that it was the inspiration for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty’s castle.

And since this is Upper Bavaria, you’ll find more to do than just visiting its churches and the most beautiful castle imaginable. Both tourists and fellow Bavarians alike enjoy fishing and swimming in either an outdoor pool (with an artificial wave machine) or on one of the few recreational lakes in the area. Young or old you’ll sure to enjoy kicking off your shoes and experience the Barefoot Path.

A stop over at Peiting’s Tourist Information Center at Ammergaustraße 2, will give you anything and everything to make your stay a fun and action one. You’ll certainly understand why our ol’ King Ludwig II liked it here so much.

Pasewalk — A Very Well-Rounded North German Experience

July 25th, 2010

Pasewalk is a small town in northern East Germany close to the Baltic Sea and the Polish border.

While it does have some reminders of its medieval origins (which are great to see) it offers her visitors a more well-rounded experience.

A huge part of daily life in a small town revolves around the Marktplatz and it’s pretty much the case in Pasewalk. The square’s wide space is the site of Pasewalk’s May Celebration (May 1st), the Folk Festival (last weekend in May), and its City Celebration on the last weekend in September.

Come Easter time, everyone gathers in the Marktplatz for the Osterfeuer (bonfire) and Ostermarkt all under the watchful eye of St. Marien, a 13th century church. St. Marien isn’t even as old as Pasewalk’s St. Nikolai Church which was built in 1176.

The only other remainders of medieval life in Pasewalk are the Mill and Prenzlauer Gates, as well as two towers from the original fortification wall. Amazingly, they’re still standing since the city center was destroyed during World War II bombings.

Also from 20th century Pasewalk history is a memorial stone dedicated to Soviet soldiers, a memorial for the residents of the town who were deported in 1940 (after the town’s synagogue was destroyed in November 1938), and a Jewish cemetery that survived the war.

Pasewalk’s City Museum does the best job explaining the place’s history and can also be found on the Marktplatz (told you so much of life goes on around the square).

Over at the town’s Cultural Forum take in a night of concerts, literary readings, fairs, dance, theater, cabaret, or whatever else they’ve got going on. The Forum also has art exhibitions but, if you want art anytime there’s always the Art Garden filled with all sorts of sculpture.

When a town pays as much attention to its culture as well as its history, you know you’re in for a real treat; and a well-rounded good time.

Schüttorf Hooks You Up With Its Low German

July 25th, 2010

Schüttorf is as far west in southern Lower Saxony as you can go without finding yourself in the Dutch speaking Netherlands. This is also where you’ll hear the Low German dialect spoken; and not just at a performance by the Low German Theater Group.

Sightseeing around Schüttorf is mainly limited to the Town Hall (made of Bentheim sandstone) and its Catholic Church neighbor next door. The Town Hall was badly damaged in April 1945 by aerial bombings, that also totally wiped out the town’s archives.

Don’t confuse the Catholic Church on the Marktplatz with the Schüttorf’s historic St. Lawrence Church that was built in 1209. It was converted to a Reformed church in 1544 and is the final resting place of several of Bentheimer Counts.

Long before the days of Counts (or any other aristocratic title) people have lived in this part of Germany. Remains that date back to 2000 B.C. were unearthed here and many Celtic crosses and other accoutrement have been found.

One thing’s for sure, it won’t matter if you speak Low German, High German, or any other language under the sun when you’re out walking, hiking, or cycling around the countryside.

Don’t worry if you’ve walked or ridden too far, hop on a local bus (with bike trailer on the back) to bring you back into town. Trust me, anyone over thirty knows exactly what I’m talking about on this. ;-)

With all that activity you’re gonna work up an appetite, so why not try some regional dishes? North Germany is known for hearty meals and delicious desserts like Butterkuchen (butter cake).

Also, there are many breweries in Lower Saxony, so try a local beer (following strict purity laws) to wash it all down.

So, no matter whether you speak High or Low German (or, No German) — I assume you’ll have a fine time in Schüttorf.

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