Bad Schönborn — Save A Seat At Its Hot Springs

June 29th, 2010

Long before Bertha Benz took her husband’s car out for a ride through town (and thus starting the German love of the automobile) Bad Schönborn was quite the popular spa destination; thanks to the Archbishop Franz Christoph von Hutten (try saying that fast five times). It was the good archbishop who founded the first sulphur spa.

Oh, if you’re over forty then you’ll really appreciate this place. Bad Schönborn has been a mecca for many who wish to sit in the hot springs looking for relief from ailments such as rheumatism. The springs aren’t the only holistic thing going on, there’s also a Kneipp wading pool and a relaxing salt grotto.

Don’t think for one second that swimming, sulphur springs, and wading pools are Bad Schönborn’s only claim to fame. No, not in the least. However, after a day or two sightseeing around — there isn’t a better place to rejuvenate tired and achy muscles.

Which you’ll have after a day out on the Nordic Walking track. Doesn’t matter even if you do the beginner course, you’re gonna feel it.

There are cerebral pursuits around town (but you’ll still have to walk to them). You’ll find beautiful works of art in most of Bad Schönborn’s churches, most notably St. Lambertus and the Rochuskapelle on the Bahnhofstraße.

You’ll also find Bad Schönborn has its own Jewish cemetery (dating from the 1870’s) and its synagogue still stands as it was spared in the pogroms of 1938.

Almost forgot Schloss Kislau. What? Did you seriously think that a town this old wouldn’t have a castle? But, folks, the only way you’re gonna see this one is if you’re sent to jail.

That’s right, Schloss Kislau is a prison (for people serving sentences of less than 1 year). It’s probably a much lighter sentence than some 11th century baron gave when he threw people in its dungeon.

Hmm, Bad Schönborn sure does have a lot of sights; guess you’ve earned that dip in the hot springs. I’ll save a seat for ya! ;-)

Beelitz — Who Needs Berlin?

June 29th, 2010

Oh Brandenburg… most people only think of Berlin when thinking about you. Pity, because they’re missing out on some pretty cool places in the surrounding area. Beelitz, all ten hamlets of her, being one of them. The place used to be really popular back a few centuries ago when the town was a place of pious pilgrimage.

If you’ve ever seen the movie the Oscar winning movie the Pianist (with actor Adrian Brody) then you’ve seen Beelitz without ever knowing it, since part of the movie was shot here at the Beelitz-Heilstätten. It’s an old sanitorium with some sixty-odd abandoned buildings.

This 20th century tourist attraction gives off the aura of an old ghost town, but there’s something ruggedly beautiful about the place.

It’s not all old houses or desolate (oh, maybe haunted?) buildings that brings people to Beelitz. There is more, really. For some, many come to see where their family once lived. The town had a large Jewish population and the old cemetery has graves dating back to the 1750’s (the last one dates to 1925).

Many of us remember a divided Germany and the area was once part of the Eastern Bloc, so it’s only fitting that you’d find a Soviet Honor Cemetery where almost 900 soldiers are buried.

Though if you’re going to visit churches while visiting the town’s hamlets make it the Sts. Marien & Nikolai (this was THE place of pilgrimage) and the town church in the village of Schlunkendorf (it just has a certain je ne sais quoi).

When you’re scouting out all of the town’s little architectural gems, ain’t no place better to sit and relax than over Riebener See; where you can swim, fish, or just chill out waterside.

It might be too cold to do that if you’re here in October, but with the couple of harvest celebrations going on you might not even notice. On the 1st and 2nd weekends in Advent (think 3 or 4 weeks before Christmas) Beelitz’s villages are abuzz with their Christmas Markets.

If the cooler weather isn’t for you, then come in the Spring (preferably the 1st weekend in May) for a weekend long Music Celebration.

Ahhhhhh, who needs Berlin when you got Beelitz.

Burglengenfeld — Hard To Pronounce, Easy To Love

June 29th, 2010

Around a half hour north of Regensburg is the hard to pronounce Upper Palatinate town of Burglengenfeld. It’s charming, it’s interesting, and its history spans back over 5000 years.

Just don’t go expecting any sites from that long ago, most come from only the Middle Ages. But, as small as the four quarters of Burglengenfeld actually are — there is plenty to keep the entire family busy.

What you’ll probably notice first in Burglengenfeld is its castle. This old Schloss, built overlooking the town, was originally built around 900 A.D. and now stands as the city’s landmark and a home for the disabled.

Also coming from the days of medieval knights in shining armour are the wall battlements on the old Stadtmauer (defense wall), a 15th century watchtower, and a medieval beer cellar.

Besides beer being big in medieval life, so was church and quite a few of them were built here in Burglengenfeld over the centuries. A visit to St. Vitus (1541), the Chapel of St. Anna, the Evangelical Christ Church, and the Church of St. Sebastian is highly recommended.

Oh, but Burglengenfeld isn’t all old buildings and there’s so much to enjoy out in the fresh Bavarian air. No one can resist walking or cycling along tiny medieval streets in the Oberpfalz.

There are a few ways to truly experience cultural life in Burglengenfeld. The first is at the annual City Celebration, which is held on the 3rd weekend in August, for an eating-drinking-singing kind of good time. Another comes during the Cultural Summer program where some great concerts are held on the Town Hall Square.

Before a classical music concert, check out the Oberpfälzer Folklore Museum, it ties into the town’s whole culture thing.

The best thing to remember about the great town of Burglengenfeld is that it might be hard to pronounce but it’s pretty easy to love. ;-)

Bischofsheim Is Great For Wine and Other Things

June 29th, 2010

On an interesting piece of Hessian real estate (south of the River Main and north of the Rhine) is the old municipality of Bischofsheim. You’ll have an easy enough time finding it, just follow the A60 or the A671 Autobahn, or hop any one of the many trains that makes a stop here.

Don’t confuse this place with the small village of Bischofsheim an der Rhön in Bavaria — this little hamlet is right next to the bigger towns of Hochheim, Rüsselsheim, and Ginsheim-Gustavsburg.

One thing that makes this place interesting (unique, different, fill-in-your-adjective-here) is that its landmark building isn’t an old church; neither is it a draughty castle. No, it’s a water tower. Yes, you read that right, a Wasserturm.

It was built around the turn of the last century in a decorative Art Nouveau style. But, the best part is the view of the city you’ve got after climbing to the top.

It might be a good idea to climb the tower first; it’ll give you a birds-eye view of everything else you’ll want to see around town. Like all the fairytale half-timbered houses and the town’s fancy Baroque style Evangelical Church.

From the top of the water tower you’ll make out the Bischofsheim Old Town Hall. But, the view won’t give you the heart of the building; you’ll have to come down for that. The Altes Rathaus houses the town’s local history museum and it’s divided into three exhibitions; prehistoric, industry, and village life.

If you want art and culture, then it’s a trip over to the Rüsselsheim Theater for any number of opera, concerts, or ballet performances (and that’s just the half of it).

What’s some culture without a good glass of wine to go with it? The entire region is famous for wine so be sure to leave room in your suitcase to take a few bottles back home with you — they’ll make great souvenirs!

Barsbüttel — Eat Your Day Away And Listen For The Music

June 28th, 2010

Some traveling folk prefer to live amongst the natives and not fall into the tourist traps that plague so many others. Well, that’s exactly what you’ll get when you arrive in Barsbüttel just east of Hamburg. This is the real Germany, a suburb of Hamburg filled with your average everyday shopping stores.

Barsbüttel doesn’t have a historic City Hall (it’s a modern day creation), doesn’t have any large chain hotels, no medieval castles, and not one little “catchy” museum. So, what’s a guy or gal gotta do? You eat!

Might as well start with some great Northern Germany specialties. The Schleswig-Holstein region has been making the sugary sweet marzipan for centuries. Another delicious treat is Rote Grütze (Red Grits) made with strawberries, currants, sugar, and liquor served with vanilla sauce or whipped cream.

But, one can’t live by sweets alone (well, maybe) and many local dishes are made with potatoes, kale, or cabbage. Washing it down with a great German ale or lager is highly recommended.

You’re sure to find plenty of these local goodies at the annual Summer Celebration which is held at the meadow next door to the only tourist attraction in town, the Lunugala Mansion.

Villa Lunugala is a beautiful manor house that doesn’t come from the Middle Ages or Renaissance; only built in the very early 20th century. C’mon, I told you that there wasn’t any of that stuff here — you didn’t think I was kidding, did you? ;-)

Of course if you can coordinate your trip to coincide with the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival you’re sure to be treated not only to great food, but many classical music concerts throughout the area (held in various churches, castles, manor houses, and even barns).

When you find yourself walking the streets of Barsbüttel keep your eyes peeled for tiny local restaurants where you’re able to eat your day away; then stop and listen for the sounds of music that could be coming from just about anywhere.

Spaichingen — Black Forest And Swabian Alb All Around

June 28th, 2010

Spaichingen in Baden-Württemberg is a place not quite in the Black Forest and not quite in the Swabian Alb. But, more a blending of the two beautiful regions. It also sits at the foot of the Dreifaltigskeitsberg (wow, try saying that fast five times ;-).

The Dreifaltigskeitberg holds many secrets, as well as where you’ll find the ruins of the 13th century Castle Baldenberg (it was also known as Castle Dreifaltigskeitberg and Castle Spaichingen). It’s also where you’ll find Spaichingen’s landmark, the pilgrimage church at the mountain’s summit.

Spaichingen’s also a place of some good shopping. It should, the town’s weekly market has been going on since 1623. We can’t forget about the annual Flea Market in May, a Martinimarket in November, and a festive Christmas Market at the beginning of December.

It’s because of the Swabian influence it’s only fitting that Spaichingen would have a lively Fastnet (held right before the start of Lent) that’s been going on for centuries. Don’t forget to pack your poodle skirts, Oxfords, and hair grease for the town’s 50’s celebration, either.

Also influenced by Swabian and Black Forest culture is the food. Because Spaichingen isn’t flush full of old churches or other types of museums leaves plenty of time to eat.

I know… the Black Forest region has given us such yummy eats as Black Forest ham and the decadent Black Forest Cake but Swabia has some, too. For instance, try a delicious the Gaisburger Marsch, a beef and vegetable stew made with a pasta called Spätzle. Or, a hearty potato dumpling dish called Schupfnudeln, that’s usually served with sauerkraut or as a sidedish.

By the way, they’ll sure taste better paired with a great Riesling or Trollinger wine — not beer; this isn’t Bavaria. ;-)

I can’t think of a better way to spend a day or two; strolling along castle ruins and eating every step of the way.

I bet you can’t either? :-)

Thale — From The Witches’ Dance Floor To Heaven

June 27th, 2010

There are places in Germany that are pretty famous because of their history, just as well as some are infamous. Then there are places that are well-known thanks to its natural beauty. Thale is famous for it all.

Thale lies along the beautiful Harz Mountains, a place that was once home to the Monastery Wendhusen. It’s the oldest of its kind in all of Saxony-Anhalt coming from the 7th/8th century (A.D) Carolingian days and remained open for 800 years until it was closed around 1540. The beautiful 18th century Evangelical Church of St. Andrea’s overlooks the rustic ruins.

But, one of the most beautiful of all the churches is the St. Petrikirche. From the looks of it you’d never guess this charming church was only built at the turn of the 20th century.

Follow up with a visit to the Hüttenmuseum, learning about iron smelting. There’s also an old windmill that will make a great snapshot and don’t forget to stop by the Hotel Zehnpfund that was once the largest summer hotel in the entire country.

Inasmuch as there is beauty with Thale’s buildings, you’d be hard pressed to find anything more beautiful than the outlying countryside. The town starts what is known as the Bodetal, a seriously protected valley region. For that reason alone, hiking, biking, rafting, or anything else off the beaten path is not allowed. Don’t worry about missing anything, because the well-traveled paths wind and twist along the ravine for kilometers — shaded by old oak and sycamore trees.

At the Bode Gorge (think green craggy granite mountainsides) is the famous Hexentanzplatz, or Witches’ Dance Floor, with its outdoor theater. When you cross by cable car you’ll think this plateau was created straight from the heavens and was once used by an old Saxon cult and is decorated with both witch and devil statues.

It really wouldn’t matter if the whole place was decorated with statues of the tooth fairy or Santa Claus, this place is nothing short of gorgeous.

Hersbruck — A Donkey Run On The Golden Route

June 27th, 2010

Sometimes surprises are good, as is the case of what you’ll find in the Franconian town of Hersbruck. It’s one of those small hamlets you might not ever have heard of, but you’re pleasantly surprised just about every time you turn around.

There is a lot to see here in the old part of town and the ultimate place to start is right at City Hall. It overlooks the Upper Market, a major hustle & bustle spot of the Middle Ages. You’ll be following in the footsteps of medieval traders when Hersbruck was located along the Golden Route.

Look out for the Nürnberger Tor (a good photo-op) and stop in the Deutsche Hirtenmuseum. It’s the only museum of its kind in the region, totally dedicated to the life of the herdsman (a far cry from the life of a city dweller).

There are quite a few other gates scattered about with names like the Hospital Gate, the Gänsturm, and the Fraischturm (once used to house prisoners). While the Wildzirkelturm now houses documents from a 20th century subdivision of a concentration camp.

One of Hersbruck’s oldest buildings is its castle (big surprise there, huh?). The original part of Schloss Hersbruck is over a thousand years old. It was rebuilt 500 years later and its imposing towers were added in the 17th century. It’s a shame the castle isn’t reported to be haunted, because it looks like it should have at least a ghost or two in residence. ;-)

Summer is a great time to visit (OK, anytime in Franconia is a good time) because that’s when Hersbruck kicks up a really good time. July starts off with the annual Summer Celebration and on the 1st weekend in August is the Town Festival with a donkey run on that Sunday.

Who can resist a good donkey run with lots of Franconian culinary specialties served by locals in traditional garb (can you say Lederhosen)? Not me, and certainly not you either! ;-)

Gladenbach — A Beautiful Town Of The Westerwald

June 26th, 2010

One of the good things about living in a small town is you get to know your neighbors. One of the good things about visiting a small town are these same neighbors will be more than gracious to a local visitor.

But, whether you live or visit Gladenbach, just east of the Westerwald, the countryside doesn’t hurt either.

You’ll have your chance to meet just about everyone in town (as well as eat some delicious Hessian delicacies) during the annual Kirschenmarkt or Cherry Market on the 1st weekend in July. Can’t make that one? Try for the Brunnenmarkt on the 3rd Sunday in October.

You’ll probably meet many more local residents at the quiet George Ludwig Union Park.

What you’ll find in Gladenbach’s 15 districts is a timeline through history up to the modern day. Many come to see Burg Blankenstein, or the ruins of it. For safety measures only parts of this 12th century castle and its octagon turret can be visited, but the Protestant chapel is still used today.

In keeping with the medieval and Renaissance theme, Gladenbach has a few old timber-framed buildings that look just picture perfect. Keep a look out for the Evangelical Church (formerly known as St. Martin), a beautiful example of Romanesque basilica.

For a modern look at Gladenbach look no further than Freizeitbad Nautilust, the town’s indoor/outdoor pool. Wait, it’s more than that. It’s an entire health complex with a fitness room, ice-well, Finnish sauna, and three restaurants. One of which serves a mean Sunday buffet breakfast.

Modern amenities can also be found in Gladenbach’s guesthouses, even if they look like they’ve been around for centuries. Most are centrally located and can be booked for reasonable rates.

All the better to save a few euros, this way you can rent a horse to ride through the beautiful Nature Park Lahn-Dill.

Sounds like reason enough to come to Gladenbach? :-)

Mutterstadt — A Mother Of All Cities

June 26th, 2010

It might be fitting that the Rhineland-Palatinate city of Mutterstadt literally translates to “Mother City,” because you’ve hit the motherload of all places.

You certainly can’t ask for a better location; south of ancient Worms, north of ruling Karlsruhe, and west of working Mannheim and scientific Heidelberg. That’s for sure a great circle of some great sightseeing and drinking. :-)

Drinking? Oh, this area of the gorgeous Palatinate produces some of the best grapes for German wine. You might even run into the “wine queen” or one of her “princesses.” Make sure you bring home a bottle or two, all the better to remember your “mutter” of a vacation.

Wine isn’t the only thing made around here. Mutterstadt is lucky enough to be in what’s called the Vegetable Garden of Germany. Its potatoes (called Grumbeere here in the Palatinate) are the best around, but you’ll also find carrots, sugar beets, and everything else that your “mutter” told you to eat at the Pfalzmarkt.

Between sipping glasses of good Riesling and eating the freshest vegetables around, you’ve got sightseeing to do. Start at the historical City Hall, a cute little half-timbered number built around the 1730’s. City Hall is also where the Kerwe church festival starts at the end of August on the Festplatz, working its way to the New Gate Community Center.

Mutterstadt has two Community Centers, actually. The other is the Palatinum which hosts many conferences and meetings. Although, many come for to see the sculptures outside dedicated to the men & women of the city.

But, if you want to keep with the church theme, no visit to Mutterstadt would be complete without a visit to the St. Maria Ascension Church. She was originally built a millenia ago and remained a Catholic church until the Reformation in 1566.

Besides Maria’s tower, keep a lookout for the abstract painted Wasserturm, a watertower that stands 52 meters (approx. 150 feet) above the city. That’s a bit taller than the old oak trees in the municipal forest with its winding twisting bicycle and walking paths. Which is the perfect place to finish your day in Mutterstadt.

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