Obrigheim (Baden) — Outstanding In The Nature Park

August 7th, 2015

This is it, my final town of the week — and is Obrigheim (Baden) a doozy.

I had to ask myself, where else could you find a couple of scenic routes and a nature park all rolled into such a neat and tidy package?

Found at the foothills of the Odenwald (and along the Neckar-Odenwald Nature Park), Obrigheim is found on the multi-national Burgenstraße, or Castle Road, scenic route — all because of Schloss Neuburg. Even from a distance Schloss Neuburg makes a dramatic landmark, especially at night when it’s all lit up.

At least you don’t have to be royalty to enjoy it. These days everyone’s welcome to see an intense 14th century castle.

By the way, as far as castles go, you should venture out into the Neckar region to see Burg Guttenberg; a most impressive castle over in Haßmersheim that’s more than 800 years old.

Anyway, back to Obrigheim… more specifically, the Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) I should say. Its exhibits are an interesting look into German life at the turn of the last century; how folks ate, slept, and worked a mere hundred years ago.

As romantic as it looks, life was hard here for some during World War II. Obrigheim (Baden) was the location of the Concentration Camp Neckarelz — and a history trail along the Goldfischpfad, and there’s a memorial to the forced laborers who mined gypsum from its tunnels.

These days the town isn’t so serious. In fact, it’s really fun-loving — evident by its numerous festivals and cultural events. The Maibaum erection is one of the biggest parties, although you could say the same about its Dorffest (the last Sunday in July), and its Kiliansmarkt that’s always held on the second Sunday in September.

Oh wait, I almost left out the Christmas Market… You might not want to miss this, so plan to be here on the first weekend of December. As for Christmas, that’s a religious holiday — so that reminds me about the town’s lovely Weinbrenner styled St. Lawrence Church, built in 1832. However, you might want to visit the Cemetery Chapel too, so long as you call ahead to make an appointment.

So, if you’re looking for a little (a lot) of everything, I guess you’ll plan on adding a trip to the totally outstanding Obrigheim (Baden), won’t you?

Cochem — The Bright Jewel On The Moselle

August 5th, 2015

I must have tried thirty times to start this page on the grand town of Cochem, only to delete sentence after sentence. Why the difficulty? Probably because no matter what I write, there’s no way on God’s green Earth that I’d ever be able to fully convey how absolutely stunning this place really is.

Located on the Moselle, Cochem is a town popular for those sailing along on those river cruises that are so popular these days. Lucky stiffs, it’s a grand way to come upon the place.

Anyway, whether you’re sailing, driving, or biking your way to town — the place is dominated by the Cochem Castle, a.k.a. Reichsburg. The castle might not look like it once did back in the 12th century — its history can be learned along one of its guided tours if you want to know why.

The region is full of castles, Reichsburg isn’t the only one. Another must see place is the ruins of Winneburg Castle, blown up by the neighboring French three hundred years ago in 1689.

At least all the half-timbered houses along the Marktplatz in the Altstadt (Old Town) are in one piece. They really give Cochem the quintessential Old World feel everyone wants when visiting.

Nah, they come for Cochem’s many festivals. Just about every time you turn around, something awesome is going on. One of the town’s highlights is the Weinwoche (Wine Week), held in mid-June. Then there’s the Vineyard Festival at the end of the same month, followed by the Burgfest in early August, then ending with the Heimat und Weinfest.

Don’t sit down yet, the fun’s not over. The nightly entertainment during the Quetschefest (2nd weekend of September) is really popular, as are the Tage des Roten Mosel-Moselweinbergpfirsichs. Look, don’t try to pronounce it — just know it’s all about the jellies, jams, liquor, and whatever else you can make with peaches.

Forget fruit, Cochem’s Oktoberfest (that’s really in October) is beer tent after beer tent, sausages, and ladies in their dirndls. And what’s an Old World German town without a Christmas Market. Ha-ha, Cochem’s got two — one of them at the castle every year on the third weekend of Advent.

Guess what? I’m not even done yet. Let’s see, what have I missed…

Ahh, yes, the Blossom Festival in early April, then there’s the Arts & Crafts Market in early-May. In between all the events, are vineyard walks, ghost tours of the castle (Sundays, from May to October), Night Watchman Tours (Satudays), and guided city tours on Mondays and Saturdays.

Any tour of Cochem should include visiting the Enderttor, part of the old city gate from the 14th century. And if you’re walking along the pedestrian only zone, you won’t miss it. You also shouldn’t miss the Kapelle Zu den drei Kreuzen, a pretty chapel built more than three centuries ago; plus you should visit the St. Roch’s Plague Chapel, too.

Wait — I thought I was done, but I haven’t mentioned the gondola ride up the Pinnerkeuzbahn, where the views from the PinnerKreuz have to be the best way to see the landscape. Ok, the folks who hike to the nearby Hunsrück and/or Eifel might say hiking or cycling is the best way — and I’ll have to take their word for it. Too many glasses of Cochem’s outstanding wine do all that. ;-)

Friedrichstadt — Greatness In A Small Package

August 4th, 2015

Let’s face it, Old World Europe wasn’t exactly known for being, shall we say, religiously tolerant. But there were places that were more tolerant than others — places like the town of Friedrichstadt.

And you’d think a town that was a huge center for all different types of religions, not to mention a center for worldwide trade, would be… well, huge.

Guess what, it wasn’t. Or shall I say, isn’t. You see, Friedrichstadt is only 4.03 square kilometers. So you’ll find all kinds of history and fun concentrated into one teensy-tiny package.

Not being one to think like most others, I’d have to say a Night Watchman Tour of town is a fantastic way to learn about Friedrichstadt’s more creepy side. Please, we’re not talking horror movie creepy, but for 90 minutes you can hear all about what went on after sundown.

All right, not everyone has a dark side — so you can take a regular guided tour (in the daylight). This is a quick hour-and-a-half tour around town, learning quite a bit about all the religions that once called Friedrichstadt home. The town once had a thriving Jewish population; and the old synagogue is now a venue for all kinds of cultural events.

Many of Friedrichstadt’s older buildings can be found along Am Markt — like the old District Courthouse and Rathaus. I like the old bridges, though. And with eighteen of them, you’re sure to find your favorite one — preferably one of the pedestrian ones so you don’t get run over.

The fun doesn’t end here, because you still have the Museum Alte Münze to visit. In case you didn’t know, that’s the Ancient Coin Museum. And there’s the old Mennonite Cemetery, too.

Don’t let the town’s diminutive size fool you, it is an absolute nature lover’s dream. You’re pretty close to the North Sea, but it’s the little canals that give the town its real character. Actually, you might think you’re in the Netherlands with all the canals, so no wonder the Dutch felt at home here.

I digress, I was talking about the natural side of town. Like canoeing? You can do that here. Like camping? Yup, that can be done here, too.

As if that’s not enough, think of the fun cultural events that await. Can you see yourself celebrating Christmas along the canals? How about coming for the Lampionfest in July? Or the super fun Dragon Boat races?

See, there’s something for everyone in every season. No wonder Friedrichstadt was known for its religious diversity, everyone wanted to be here — and still do. ;-)

Eckersdorf — Getting Excited About The Devil’s Hole

August 3rd, 2015

Today is yet another day bumming around in Upper Franconia — this time in the town of Eckersdorf, located right next door to Bayreuth.

Don’t take that the wrong way, I’m not complaining in the least — and if I ever get bored in Franconia, I’ll be hanging up my keyboard forever. That’s not very likely to happen, considering there’s always something to get excited about — be it Franconia, or just Germany itself.

One of the things to get excited about in Eckersdorf is Schloss Fantaisie, once just some aristocrat’s summer home. Within the palatial estate is the Rococo garden, now known as the Garden Art Museum — a grand way as any to spend some time outdoors.

For those of you who aren’t the outdoorsy type, I gotta tell ya, you might want to rethink that around these parts. The Teufelsloch (Devil’s Hole) nature reserve is a great place to start — and you want to know something else? This natural landscape was created some 200 million years ago.

Not too far from the Devil’s Hole is the Lettenwinkel, which might be an old abandoned quarry, but it’s still a great place to experience the wonders of nature.

Now that I think about it, the Wanderweg Salamandertal can do that too. Nature meets the written word along the Jean-Paul Trail, a German writer who was known to be quite the avid hiker. How can you not be inspired to write when you’re wandering around the Franconian Switzerland?

I, however, am quite the avid party-goer — so I’m excited about Eckersdorf’s many festivals and cultural events. Summer is the busiest time of all, with July hosting the Summer Festival, Pfarrfest, and a Kerwa — followed by three more Kerwa (church festivals) in August.

You will have to wait for Autumn for the two Wine Festivals, one in September, the other in October. Plus, there’s also an Advent Market at the end of November — a great way to bring in the Christmas season, wouldn’t you say?

Another thing I get excited about is pretty architecture, so it’s no wonder I love places like the St. Ägidius Church, built way back in the 1790s. The Forest House, once a Jagdschloss, has been around since 1776; but the oldest place is the Laurentius Church, built a thousand years ago. Ok, not technically, since the original was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War conflict. Also from the Middle Ages is the Fähnleinsbrunnen, a fountain erected when Henry IV stopped on a pilgrimage in 1077.

It seems there’s a lot to get excited about here in Eckersdorf, which is why I’ll never, ever hang up my keyboard. ;-)

Piding — Where Your Heart Skips A Beat

July 30th, 2015

I hope there never comes a time when I’d be so (ohh, need the right word here)… jaded and blasé about the German Alps. At this point I’ve seen them a bazillion times, but seeing them upon arriving in Piding still managed to make my heart skip a few beats.

Piding itself managed to have that effect on me, too; and no one at the Tourist Office (located at Petersplatz 2) forced me to say that either, just so you know.

The town of Piding is a mixture of historical sites and outdoor fun that’s totally family friendly. The hardest part of coming here is choosing what you’ll do first. Excuse me, that really should depend on what season you’ll be coming.

A little winter weather shouldn’t keep you from coming — in fact, that’s when things heat up around here. Let the snow fall, because you’ll downhill and cross-country ski, and maybe try snowboarding too. Can you think of any better way to enjoy the picturesque Berchtesgadener Land?

Probably not a good idea to try mountain climbing in the dead of winter — save that for like August. Not me, sorry, but I’ll gladly join you for a game of tennis. Better yet, you’ll find me on one of the twenty-three (yeah 23) hiking trails; although it might be hard to find me, as more than half of Piding is totally forested.

We all know I love old castles and churches, so you might find me staring at the Gothic frescoes at either the St. John or St. Lawrence Churches. Both churches, by the way, have Romanesque beginnings — evident by the latter’s squat architecture.

There’s a medieval castle here, too. Schloss Staufeneck just drips of the Middle Ages — but didn’t get its current appearance until sometime after the first years of the 16th century. Either way, it just looks old (and formidable) with its small windows, and steep hipped roof.

While some might think that stopping their journey right here, don’t. You’ll miss out on Piding’s Cattle Drive, held sometime in late September/early October. The jewelry adorned cows really are a sight to behold.

Not able to make that? No problem, come for the Georgiritt on Easter Monday instead.

Ok, now you can relax… Thank your lucky stars Piding is a climatic spa resort, perfect for total relaxation.

Oh, I guess you can’t relax too much when your heart’s skipping a few beats at the wonders of the Alps and Piding. ;-)

Seehausen (Altmark) — Its Name Gives It All Away

July 17th, 2015

Germany’s got the funniest (i.e. weird) names for towns of just about anywhere in the world. Really, what kind of name is Hansestadt Seehausen (Altmark)? Except when you think about it, its official name kind of makes sense — and kind of tells you where it’s at.

So, it appears the town of Seehausen lies within the Altmark, a region within the North German Lowlands known for such typical German things like beer production, hearty German dishes, folks who speak Low German, Hanseatic cities, and megalithic tombs.

There, I think I’ve run the gamut of it all. ;-)

As for Seehausen itself, I love its medieval flavor even after all these centuries. Maybe it’s because of its Beustertor, the last of the town’s remaining City Gate, and its sections of its defense wall. The tower itself is a beautiful 15th century brick creation, and the defense walls still stand some 4 meters high, if you’re interested to know.

Something else you might be interested to know, is Seehausen lies along the architecturally wonderful Romanesque Route, a scenic route highlighting the best of medieval Romanesque buildings. Its claim to fame on the route is the gorgeous Church of St. Nikolaus in the village of Beuster. Once a Stiftskirche for the Augustinians, this 12th century church is a marvel of engineering of its day.

And close to the Beustertor are the imposing towers of the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul (built in the 1300s), and the 15th century Salzkirche, which isn’t a “church” really — it’s now used for all kinds of cultural events and weddings.

As grand as it is to go from one fine building to another, you need to explore the surrounding countryside, too. Along the Brandenburg border are all kinds of amazing hiking paths. And let’s not leave out the Elberadweg that’s quite the place to be to see all sorts of plants and animals in a unique biosphere. Plus, there’s the Archaeological Route, stretching along some three villages with information panels to explain the significance of the route.

Not many explanations are needed when it comes to Seehausen’s festivals. You kind of know what you’re gonna get at the Autumn Festival in September, at the Altmark Music Festival in August, the Christmas Market in late November/early December, and the Neptunfest in June, followed by the Forest Festival a month later. Yeah, that’s right, a hell of a good time eating, drinking, music, and shopping. :-)

Fantastic, sounds like my idea of a good time. Care to join me? And I should be easy to find, since Seehausen (Altmark) Hansestadt’s name kind of gives it away where I am. ;-)

Umkirch — Concentrated Goodness In The Breisgau

July 16th, 2015

The weirdest thing came to mind about Umkirch, a small town in both the Upper Rhine Valley and the Breisgau — I thought about how densely populated it is. Strange, I know, but on paper Umkirch isn’t even nine square kilometers with just over 5,000 people calling this place home.

It certainly doesn’t feel crowded; maybe it’s all the wide open countryside. There are certainly enough bike trails to keep you from feeling stifled. Prepare yourself for some serious riding, many of Umkirch’s trails range from 29km to a more staggering 64km — with “themed” trails like the Markgräfler Radwanderweg; Kaiserstuhl Radwanderweg; Breisgau Cycle Path; and Rhine Valley Bike Trail.

Too much for you? No problem the 5.4km Nordic Walking trail can be done at a more leisurely pace; and with 27 signposts dotting the way, you’ll have plenty of time for a rest while you read.

If I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a thousand times: you don’t want to be out hiking and cycling while there’s an event going on. With careful planning you’re able to enjoy one of the two Summer Festivals (one in July, the other in August); its October Herbstfest and Kirchweihfest; and the December Christmas Market.

As fun as you’ll find pocket-sized Umkirch, it isn’t without history. Heck no, this was once a Roman settlement — but sadly nothing remains of those days. What does remain is the Romanesque Pfarrkirche, dating back a thousand years. In fact, it’s believed the Parish Church is the oldest church in the entire Breisgau.

Also from the Middle Ages is Schloss Büningen, although you’d never guess it since the original castle was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War, eventually rebuilt in the late 17th century.

It really stinks the Hohenzollernschloss is privately owned these days — a long way from once being occupied by the French. Hey, it’s not like the French had to go too far, France is only two towns over. Perhaps they wanted to hang around its famous Castle Park…

My first thought of Umkirch might’ve been a strange one — but I found it to be historic, charming, and totally pretty. Let’s just say it isn’t pint-sized, but concentrated goodness. OK? ;-)

Kumhausen — On A Quest For Churches In Old World Europe

July 16th, 2015

I have a wonderful friend out there who added to her list of things to see in this lifetime (sounds better than a bucket list, no?) to see all the famous (and not so famous) Gothic churches in Europe. An ambitious undertaking, I would say. And I would also say she needs to add a stop here in the Lower Bavarian town of Kumhausen on her quest.

If a trip to see some amazing castles would have been on the agenda, I’d say this might not be the place — since the place doesn’t have many. OK, it’s got one not too far away, in Neufraunhofen. Schloss Neufraunhofen’s original construction started in the 14th century, and it’s quite famous in these parts for its castle church.

As for those churches, with some 49 districts to Kumhausen, my friend is bound to find a church one to her liking — as will you.

The St. Maria Chapel might be a late Gothic church, but it still qualifies as one — as does the Church of St. Ulrich, even though it’s undergone a Baroque transformation, and St. Benedict’s needs an honorable mention, since it too is a 15th century Gothic church. The chapel in the village of Allkofen might look Gothic, but it’s really a neo-Gothic one from the 19th century.

Maybe if my pal had just set off to find old churches in Europe, she’d fare much better here in Kumhausen. The St. Lorenz Church is a fine Romanesque church from the late 13th century — which is around the same time the St. Vitus’ Romanesque church was built.

None, however, are as old as Kumhausen’s Church of St. Peter. Sure it might seem kind of modern with its Baroque additions, but its origins go all the way back to the 1200s, replacing the church that stood on this spot since the mid-9th century.

Sometimes it’s hard to wrap your brain around those numbers, so try to gander the thought that Kumhausen started off as a Celtic settlement some 3,000 years ago. Hard to imagine when a number of bus routes and highways are criss-crossing through town, isn’t it?

I wish my friend good luck on her journey, as well as to you here in Kumhausen. Maybe we can all meet at the town’s Christmas Market? Sounds like the perfect time of year to go see those churches, yes?

Waldmohr — Great For Being Outdoors

June 26th, 2015

Chopped in half by the Glan River, the town of Waldmohr has to be one of the best towns to spend every waking minute outdoors.

Wait a second, does cave exploration count as an outdoor activity?

That’s a question to ponder as you’re scoping out the Schlossberg Caves, said to be the largest cave of its kind in all of Europe.

I don’t necessarily know if that’s true, but what I do know about Waldmohr is: it’s really pretty; and it doesn’t matter the season either. Just find yourself any bike trail or hiking path to see everything from storks to butterflies, fish to flowering plants.

One of the more popular bike/hike trails through the region is the Glan-Blies-Weg, a 130 km route following the Glans, eventually ending in France. The route follows the old train tracks in, and around, Waldmohr.

And you’ll most certainly have to be outside to see some of the castles around town. Follow the Ritter-Gerin-Weg to what used to be Burg Kübelberg — creepy that not much remains of the old 13th century castle except the gallows.

Another castle ruin is the Burgruine Hohenburg; this castle was also from the 13th century — but sadly didn’t survive past the beginning years of the 1700s.

There’s more to see and do at one of Barbarossa’s old castles, the Gustavsburg. The castle itself has been rebuilt a few times over the last 900 years, but today houses the Burg- und Schlossmuseum Jägersburg.

While technically not a castle, the Eichelscheiderhof is (was) a Duchy estate from the 16th century — if anything, its unique horse-shoe design is worth seeing.

The other museum in Waldmohr is found in the village of Breitenbach, where you’ll find the Farmer’s Museum, as well as the neo-Gothic designed St. Jacob Church.

Of course no trip to Waldmohr should be without seeing the pretty Protestant Pfarrkirche, built way back in 1765; nor should you miss coming to the Marktplatz Festival, its Kirmes, or its Christmas Market.

So it seems Waldmohr is the best for being outdoors, but sounds just as good for a party or two. ;-)

Kitzscher — Certainly Not Sleepy

June 26th, 2015

I’m tired, it’s the end of a very long day — but, I have to stay awake long enough to tell you all about the town of Kitzscher in Saxony. It’s quite appropriate, really, since Kitzscher is a sleepy town not all that far from Leipzig.

You know, that’s not quite an accurate description of this town, there seems to be quite an assortment of events going on here throughout the seasons — so, I have to take the sleepy town moniker back. ;-)

There are five villages to Kitzscher, and you got to start somewhere, right?

Might as well make it Kitzscher itself, whose village church I just loved. There was a quiet beauty to the place, surrounded by tiny graveyard. And just off the Marktplatz is a Local History Museum that’s constantly changing exhibits. So even if you’ve been here numerous times, you’ll always see something new. The best part (besides its treasures inside) is it’s free.

Dittmannsdorf started off small, just fifteen people. Today it has grown to more than 350 people, but still keeps its little lanes and tidy homes — and of course, its own village church.

Expect to see a village church over in Hainichen, another town of quiet streets and quiet parks. Tall trees and wildlife await you in Thierbach, a former lignite mining town with its own village church.

Trages has to be one of my favorites here in Kitzscher (nothing personal, you other hamlets, I assure you). I like how you can see the 13th century St. Andreas Church off in the distance from the tidy village pond. Which brings me to the Pond Festival held every June.

Kitzscher’s parties don’t stop at one, there’s a Village Festival held every July, and the Leipzig Symphony Orchestra is known to play in these parts. The town also hosts a June Schiller Festival, a Park Festival (July), a Heimatfest in August, and an annual December Christmas Market.

Sleepy? No, that’s not quite right — and I’m sure glad I stayed awake remembering all there is to see in Kitzscher.

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