Schleusingen — Loving It In The Hennenberger Land

March 6th, 2015

I really don’t think I gave the town of Schleusingen a fair shake. Yeah, not very nice of me, was it? Which is why I gave it a second go — because I wasn’t sure why. Whew, I’m glad I did.

Really, how could I, of all people, not love a German town dominated by its very own medieval castle? It’s even better that you’ll find Schloss Bertholdsburg’s tower makes a great lookout point to the area around the Thuringian Forest. Within this early 13th century castle is also a museum, housing exhibits on everything Thuringian.

Ask around, you might even hear the tales of the Schleusingen Witch Hunts, where even the Mayor’s wife was accused of heresy. Luckily for us these days, that kind of thing doesn’t go on anymore.

Today’s Schleusingen is fun, vibrant, and you’ll find it exceptionally pretty. It’s located within a region known as the Henneberger Land, which also encompasses parts of Lower Franconia in Bavaria. And for as tiny as Schleusingen is, it’s one of the Hennenberger Land’s bigger towns. I guess that’s if you add in the town’s seven villages.

Speaking of its villages, I think you’ll really like them. Fischbach started off as a 15th century village, while Geisenhöhn is quite small — with only a population of around a hundred people. Come to think of it, Heckengereuth has just about that many people living here as well, in addition to having those quaint half-timbered houses.

And now that people aren’t worried about being burned at the stake for witchcraft, the townsfolk like to party. One of the biggest celebrations is the Burg & Stadtfest held in June; while the Kürbisfest is an October goodie. Plus, let’s not forget about the Martinimarkt, held every November.

In between festivals is a good time to see some of Schleusingen’s other sites — you know, places like its 18th century Jewish cemetery, or learn about its East German agricultural days. And don’t forget to see the Teutsche School, one of Germany’s oldest schools.

Yeah, I’d say Schleusingen was worth a second look — and I liked it so much, maybe I’ll give it a third. ;-)

Schöppenstedt — Indulgence And A Trickster

March 6th, 2015

Haven’t I said before that sometimes it isn’t the town itself, but the characters who once lived here that somehow manages to make it worth visiting? Well, when it comes to the town of Schöppenstedt, which is also a Collective Municipality, I really mean it.

The “character” in question is Till Eulenspiegel, said to have been born in the village of Kneitlingen. His Low German name was Dyl Ulenspegel — but either way, he was quite famous in medieval folklore as a trickster. Eulenspiegel’s tales were ones of exposing greed, hipocracy, and other foolishness with his simple way of looking at the world.

You can learn a lot more about him at the Till Eulenspiegel Museum, about his life and his death from the plague back in 1350. Or, you can visit the Eulenspiegel Monastery (in the hamlet of Ampleben), said to be the church where he was baptized.

Kneitlingen, by the way, offers more than tales of its famous son — it’s a village of fields, farms, and half-timbered houses. The village of Eitzum is also known for its farm, and once the town for many old mills.

If you want to see an old castle, then its off to Schliestedt. Don’t let the more modern Rococo design of the castle fool you, this grande dame is much, much older than it looks. In fact, the village of Schliestedt started off as a prehistoric settlement.

There was another old castle here, Burg Ampleben; but sadly, nothing remains of this 12th century fortress. There is something else you can see from the 12th century, the Crucifix within the Pilgrimage Church of St. Marien. The church itself wasn’t built until 1328, and was once where you could go to buy yourself an “indulgence.”

Speaking of indulgence, let’s talk about the fun we can also have in Schöppenstedt. There’s an Oktoberfest, held in October, by the way; a Laternenfest; a Summer Folk Festival; and it wouldn’t be right in northern Germany without an Easter bonfire.

Of course, if you’re still hankering for some more stuff to see — then come to the village of Winnigstedt, a town once on the West/East German border, and where you can see an old Watchtower. Berklingen has an 800 year old church; and over in Uehrde you’re free to hike all you want around the salt marshes. Oh, and in the village of Dahlum, you’ll find a Romanesque church once lorded over by the Knights Templar.

Yikes, I’ve come this far — forgetting to mention the 12th century Church of St. Stephen, famous for its head and animal decorated stone pillars — and the old prehistoric grave mounds, known as the Hügelgrab.

Yes, I’ve said the characters who lived here are what makes a place special — but thankfully there’s so much more to Schöppenstedt.

Kolitzheim — Partying Forever For Wine And Beer

March 5th, 2015

Whoa, party animals of the world, have I found the ultimate best place for you to be. Snuggled ever so nicely in the northwest corner of Bavaria, in an area known as Lower Franconia, is the town of Kolitzheim.

Never heard of it? That’s a shame, because, between me and you, this place totally rocks.

Oh, don’t be fooled by its historical side — you know, like its old Baroque Schloss Zeilitzheim (built 1679), or how people have lived here for more than 5,000 years.

And it isn’t to say Kolitzheim doesn’t have a serious side, like the Military History Museum — with exhibits on World War II, a divided East/West Germany… that kind of thing. The town even has its religious side, a visit to the St. Sebastian Church (built 1786) over in Unterspiesheim is a good one to see.

Let’s not forget we’re talking about Bavaria here, so you’re treated to some of the best scenery along any one of the town’s Nordic Walking trails, its bike paths (ranging from only 1.7 km to a whopping 42 km), or just hopping from one Weingut to another.

Ohhh, that explains the whole party attitude, doesn’t it? That’s right, I’m blaming it on the wine. ;-)

Well, at least I can blame it on the wine during the town’s Wine Festival — which is only part of the fun you’ll find around here. Over in Unterspiesheim (remember this village, that’s the place with the Baroque church), they have a wonderful Beer Festival to enjoy.

I’m gonna take a deep breath to give you the rest of numerous cultural events throughout the year. Ok, I’m gonna try doing them in order — but I make no promises. Here goes…

There’s an Ostermarkt (Easter Market), a Gemeindefest (Community Festival), Maibaum celebrations, a Summer Festival (June), a Pfarrfest (Church Festival) in June, the Straßenfest (Street Festival, also in June), the Fischfest, and a religious Kirchweih in Zeilitzheim that’s always held on the last weekend of June.

Oh, I ain’t done yet, either. July’s the month for the Pfarrfest in Unterspiesheim, a multi-day Brunnenfest (Fountain Festival), another Pfarrfest in Herlheim, and another multi-day festival known as the Straßenweinfest in Stammheim.

The village of Lindach holds their multi-day Straßenweinfest in August, followed by the Pfarrfest in Kolitzheim proper, and the year ends nicely with the Erntekankfest in October, another Kirchweih (Lindach) in November, and the obligatory Christmas Market.

From what I’ve seen, Kolitzheim has got to be one of the funnest towns anywhere in the world — wouldn’t it be nice to party forever? ;-)

Battenberg (Eder) — From Hesse To The UK Throne

March 5th, 2015

How do you get from the title of Prince Consort of the United Kingdom to the small Hessian town of Battenberg (Eder)? Ohh, we’re about to play six-degrees of separation in a history lesson again, aren’t we?

You bet your sweet cheeks, we are. ;-)

In case you didn’t know, Battenberg was the original surname of Prince Phillip of the United Kingdom’s family; but thanks to anti-German sentiment during World War I, the name was changed to Mountbatten.

Yeah, Phillip might be quite “royal” these days, but there were some ancestors of his that weren’t up to snuff here in Battenberg. One of his great-great-great something or other entered into what was known as a Morganatic marriage; which is when a “titled” man marries a woman, shall we say, not of equal rank.

Call it what you want, but whoever they were got to live in the impressive Battenberg Castle, with graceful Baroque Gardens, no less.

And the town of Battenberg is lovely itself, mind you. You’ll find a game reserve in the village of Dodenau, and a number of hiking scenic routes throughout the region. The long-distance R6 and R8 Hessian Radfernweg come right along through, and the Lahn-Eder Cycle Path and Oranier Route aren’t all that far away.

When you’re done with history and all that hiking (I like the Forest Trail, myself) and biking, come to Battenberg for its parties. September’s great for eating, since that’s when the Potato Festival is held, along with its annual Oktoberfest. November and December are great for its Christmas Markets, like the Woodlands Christmas Market held right in that game reserve I mentioned.

After shopping and eating, you can go back to the historical side of Battenberg again, by stopping by the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) and the Stadtmuseum (City Museum) right at Marktplatz 1; climbing up the tower of the 12th century Kellerburg (open from April 1 til October 31); or heading below the surface of town, down into the shafts of the old mines.

Sounds good, but I much rather see the upside of Battenberg — so great in fact, maybe Phillip should consider changing his name back.

Nufringen — More Than Stuttgart’s Commuter Town

March 5th, 2015

Drats, writer’s block again. It’s not as if there’s nothing to tell about the town of Nufringen, there’s quite a bit going on in this “bedroom community” of Stuttgart. But, where and how do I start?

Perhaps the best place would be the Schönbuch Nature Reserve in the Middle Neckar Region. Hey, four million visitors a year to this nature park couldn’t possibly have it wrong, could they? No, I didn’t think so either.

Anyway, it’s a great place for quiet walking, hiking, and bike trails to see the natural side of things. No worries about getting lost, the trails out here are well-marked so you can find your way back. Then again, getting you’re not too far from the Black Forest — so there’s no prettier place to lose time.

The downside to getting lost is you’ll miss out on some pretty great cultural events in Nufringen. The traditional Neujahrsempfang (New Years Reception) in the local Wiesengrundhalle is always a good one, as are the Choral Society concerts. Everyone seems to enjoy the Maypole dancing, coinciding with the Forest Festival on May 1st. Carnival’s a big deal around here too — who doesn’t just love Germany’s Fifth Season?

The fun festivals and events don’t end there, you’ve got the Fall Festival in October, as well as the Summer Festival every June, and the Marktplatz Festival in July, along with the Christmas Bazaar in December. How does anyone manage to get any work done with all these parties and shopping opportunities going on?

Did I mention yet that Nufringen is within easy distance to the German Framework Road, so you’ll always be close to those half-timbered houses Germany’s known for. Plus, it makes a nice quiet community to spend a few nights while you’re visiting many of Stuttgart’s museums, or hiking along the nearby peat bogs at the Birkensee.

These quiet moments are great for processing the changes Nufringen has seen over the last seven decades, about how almost half of it was destroyed during World War II. Sadly, war and devastation aren’t foreign to it — it took more than a century to recover after the plague and Thirty Years’ War decimated the place in the 17th century.

Today the idyllic woodlands, wonderful festivals, and easy access to some of the best areas of South Germany make Nufringen more than just a commuter town.

Altenkunstadt — Simplicity, Beauty, Historicity

March 4th, 2015

In the very north of Bavaria, in a region known as Upper Franconia, is the small town of Altenkunstadt. Just to the south of Burgkunstadt, its villages embody what’s truly special about Bavaria.

It isn’t about the beer, or the mega-party known as Oktoberfest. No, it’s a lot more understated and tranquil — no big city feel, and it isn’t very cosmopolitan; and it’s a good thing.

Altenkunstadt’s history is quite long. And it once had a bustling Jewish community for two hundred years. Today there’s a museum with an exhibition on the town’s former community, once almost half its population.

Many of the town’s old buildings are still around, like the Evangelical Church in the village of Strössendorf, built in the 16th century; which is much younger than the village’s castle — whose oldest part is more than seven centuries old.

Another medieval castle is the Schloss Maineck, although not too much of its 14th century beginnings are left. Today the castle has its own beer garden and cafe — not what the original owners had in mind, I’m sure.

Scattered throughout the rest of Altenkunstadt’s villages are little Wayside Chapels, many of them from the 18th century. Seems like a whole lotta building went on during the 1700s, but my favorites from that time period are the half-timbered houses. Good thing there are plenty of them to be found in Pfaffendorf, Burkheim, and Strössendorf.

Some of Altenkunstadt’s villages aren’t very big or populated. To get away from the hectic crowds of the big city, come to Tauschendorf, a hamlet of just around two dozen residents. Oh, what a lovely little place of quiet bike lanes and hiking trails. It’s also a good place to be if you’re into skiing, since there’s a ski lift nearby.

Altenkunstadt is also a great place to be in October, as that’s when the town hosts its Pumpkin Festival and Apfelmarkt (Apple Market). Although if you’re into some warmer weather, then perhaps the August Summer Festivals is more for you. Then again, the Straßenfest (Street Festival) in September is always a good idea.

Oops, maybe with all these festivals, Altenkunstadt isn’t all that tranquil. ;-)

Pfreimd — Difficult To Pronounce, Easy To Love

March 4th, 2015

There are a number of things I could say to compliment the town of Pfreimd — and probably nothing I could say to detract from it. That’s a big order to fill, is it not?

It’s all right if you don’t believe me, but I’ll just say this: Pfreimd belongs to the Upper Palatinate Forest Nature Park.

Oh, glory be, a town that’s just chocked full of bike trails (like the Naabtal Radwanderweg), and hiking trails like the Goldsteig trail. Sounds like life around here is pretty sweet. ;-)

Residents and visitors alike have it even sweeter. Did you know you could rent a boat? Rentals are available for anyone wishing to canoe some 22 km along the Naab River. The river separates the town, almost through the middle, so be sure you pay attention to both sides of the riverbanks.

As pretty as you’ll find its countryside, I think you’ll love the many festivals and cultural events held throughout the year. Always a good one is the Starkbierfest, or Strong Beer Festival, in March; as is the Wine Festival (August); and let’s not forget about the Artist Market (October); Kirchweih (also October); Kathreinmarkt (November); another Kirchweih (held in September in the village of Stein); and come early December, you’ve got the Marianische Festwoche, a well-frequented week-long event.

No one can ever say there isn’t anything to do in the Upper Palatinate.

Partying and outdoor recreation isn’t all that Pfreimd has to offer, it’s got a historical side, too. Like what? Oh, I don’t know, how about an old Franciscan Monastery — built way back in 1594, but sadly was destroyed in 1621. You can also go see the 18th century Church of St. Matthew in Stein (one of its 29 villages), or you can use a tad bit of imagination to picture what its medieval castle used to look like.

Oh, if you take that Naabtal Radwanderweg I mentioned above, you’ll pass right along the old Stadtturm, the City Tower whose bright yellow color belies its austere medieval beginnings of the 14th century.

As you can see, Pfreimd is a grand old small town — filled with everything that makes the Upper Palatinate one of the best places to visit in Germany — a town that truly deserves compliment after compliment.

Meersburg — Merovingian, Medieval, Marvelous!

March 3rd, 2015

I was wondering when I was going to get back here to Meersburg again. It took a while, since it’s been forever and a day from my days traveling along the Upper Swabian Baroque Route.

Yeah, that’s a big scenic route to throw out there in the first few minutes — and interestingly enough, it isn’t the only one making its way through this Upper Swabian town.

Leave it to Germany to be so efficient to jam-pack a million-and-a-half things into just twelve square kilometers.

Meersburg didn’t start off Germany, it was originally a Merovingian town. In fact, the Old Castle had its start back in the 7th century, built by a guy by the name of King Dagobert. And following the years after the World War II desaster, the place was occupied by the French.

Sorry, no time for a history lesson, there’s too much to do. Whether you’re here because of the Upper Swabian Baroque Route, the Swäbische Dichterstraße (Swabian Poets Route), or the German Framework Road — you’re treated to the best each theme has to offer. And a good way to see a lot of what Meersburg’s got going on is to take either a guided tour of its Altstadt (Old Town), or a Nightwatchman Tour.

Chances are you’ll see the Unterstadttor, the city’s oldest gate, built almost 800 years ago; and you’ll pass many half-timbered houses, giving the town that Old World feel. When you want a bit of modernity, walk along the promenade that runs along Lake Constance.

As if that’s not enough, Meersburg has plenty of festivals to give the place a lively vibe. The Bodensee Weinfest is always fun in September, and not to be confused with the Winzerfest that’s held on the second weekend of every July. From March to December, Meersburg hosts many International Palace Concerts; and every May is time for the Droste Literature Festival. Oh, and this is all in addition to the super fun Medieval Market in October — fullll of jesters, music, artisans, and yummy food.

When you’re not visiting places like the Weinbaum Museum, old chapels like the Cemetery Chapel, and the former medieval Dominican Monastery (that’s now a library, tourist office, and City Museum) — why not find one of the many vantage points throughout the city. Much of Meersburg’s architecture is stunning artwork, but so is the vineyard dotted landscape.

Yeah, it was really nice to get back to Meersburg; and with any luck, I’ll get back here again and again. Perhaps you’ll be here, too.

Wermsdorf — A Royal Surprise In Saxony

March 3rd, 2015

What a pleasant surprise the health resort town of Wermsdorf turned out to be. Actually, I had no expectation of what to find — didn’t know anything about it until it came time to tell you about it. I didn’t know that it had 10 districts. And I didn’t know it was once the stomping grounds for King Albert of Saxony until today.

Mentioning King Albert is important, because he used one of Wermsdorf’s castles as a “hunting lodge.”

The two castles here are stunning — one is the Schloss Hubertusburg, a Baroque building that’s been used as everything from the home of royalty, to an asylum, to a training facility for Luftwaffe officers. Today it’s a museum that details much of its long history. The other castle is older, a Renaissance styled building with huge windows and intricate exterior details.

With castles like these, it is the very best place to hold the town’s annual Mahliser Ritterspiele, or Mahlis Knights Games. They even have a Knights Camp for the kids, giving them a fun way to learn about medieval history.

While the kids are off doing that, the grown-ups can have time to visit one of the mushroom farms, see a thousand year old tree, or traverse along a number of marked hiking trails, most of which are in the village of Collm.

Interestingly enough, throughout the rest of Wermsdorf’s other villages there are about a bazillion other things going on. One of the town’s biggest events is the Horstseefischen — bringing over a hundred thousand people to this charming town. If you’re lucky enough to be here on May 1st, you can look forward to the festive Maypole celebrations; or perhaps the Autumn Festival in October is more for you.

Oh, I know I’m missing some other events in Wermsdorf — let me double check…

Ah, yes, the hamlet of Luppa has its romantic Christmas Market and the popular Mühlenfest (Mill Festival); while there is also a Glühwein (Mulled Wine) Festival in December, and a Pond Festival held in town, too.

With so many people coming to Wermsdorf to party, it’s nice to find a quiet spot every now and then. So, look no further than around any one of the 26 ponds around town — pay attention because there are rare plants, birds, and other wildlife to see.

And another attraction is the Naturbad nature outdoor pool in Luppa, whose white sand beach and clear blue water makes you feel as though you’re in the Caribbean.

A pleasant surprise isn’t a strong enough statement for what can be found here in Wermsdorf — and the best part is you don’t have to be royal to enjoy it. ;-)

Müden — Stamping The Fish Ladder In The Heath

March 3rd, 2015

There are three Müdens in Germany — one along the Aller River (this one), another one at the Moselle River, and a third one only 61 km north of the one at the Aller, which is part of Faßberg nowadays.

Have I confused you yet? :-)

Solution: This page is about the town of Müden (Aller), found right along the edges of the Lüneburg Heath. Ahh, I’ve been this way before, so rest assured when I tell you this Müden sits right in a pretty part of the state.

However, it wasn’t the natural landscape that had me mesmerized this time. Nope, it was the Church of St. Peter, that doesn’t really strike me as looking like a church at all. It has more of an appearance of a stately manor house with its half-timbered construction. It’s known for its paintings inside, but I think the exterior is remarkable as well.

Had we been able to visit Müden about a thousand years ago, we’d have been able to see its castle. Too bad this medieval structure is gone now, once located where the Aller meets up with the Oker River. Well, at least everyone can eat their sorrows away at missing the castle — Müden lies right close to the Lower Saxony Asparagus Route. Hey, we might not see royalty around here, but we all can enjoy the King’s Vegetable, right?

A stop over to the Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) will give you insights to the agricultural history of the region, as well as finding all about this Fischtreppe thing. From what I gather, it’s known as a Fish Ladder — but that’s about all I can explain. Sorry, having too much fun at the multi-day Volksfest. It’s a June event, if you want to come. ;-)

Other cultural events in Müden are the Community Flea Markets, and the Herbstmarkt held every October. And if you’re into the whole outdoor recreational thing, come to the village of Flettmar, where fishing, hiking, biking and swimming are all the rage.

I’m just glad I found the right Müden — otherwise, I’d have seriously missed out.

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