Zahna-Elster — Next To Sightseeing Heavy Hitters

January 20th, 2015

After spending yet another week totally in Saxony-Anhalt, thanks to the people responsible for the reorganization of Zahna-Elster, I’m looking for a change.

No, I’m not leaving this neck of the woods yet. And why would I want to, considering Zahna-Elster borders Wittenberg, with Coswig (Anhalt) just one jump over.

Heavy hitters in the sightseeing department, huh?

So, while I figure out what kind of change I’m looking for, I’m happy to be here — even if there isn’t a whole lotta sightseeing.

If you’re coming from Berlin or Halle, you’re going to come to Bülzig first, because this is where the railway line comes in.

From here you’ve got a few choices of where to go next. Anywhere but the town of Zahna, save that for last.

OK, so how about Dietrichsdorf with its charming brick church from 1705, or its former mill that’s now a restaurant.

Great, efficiency — sightseeing & lunch at the same time. ;-)

Gadegast has its very own village church, as well. Curious, considering it has less than two hundred people living in this hamlet.

There are even less people who live in the three hamlets of Leetz.

Mühlanger is a little bigger. And a little more active, with a Park Celebration in mid-June, a competitive (yet fun) Volleyball Tournament in October, as well as a huge Autumn Bonfire.

In the town of Elster (Elbe) you can see where the Schwarze Elster empties into the Elbe River. Not enough for you? The epic Battle of Wartenburg stretched all the way here (crawling with Prussians and Napoleon’s troops), back in the day when the area belonged to the Kingdom of Saxony in the 19th century.

The last stop you’ll want to see is Zahna. Yes, it lies on the edge of the Fläming Nature Park, and yes it has a Farmers Museum and a 13th century Stone Church.

But, none of them did it for me — I’m equally torn between the pink Stift zum Heiligen Geist (Church of the Holy Spirit) or the massive Kreuzkirche (Church of the Cross) that was built in the 10th or 12th century (not sure).

Then there’s that red brick building from 1897. Most won’t recognize that as the Town Hall.

Forget change — I need to stick around until I’ve figured out which one of these churches I like better. ;-)

Raguhn-Jeßnitz — Everything From UNESCO To Luther

January 19th, 2015

2010 was a very busy year for Saxony-Anhalt politicians. They decided, yet again, to morph a bunch of independent towns and villages together — like they did with Raguhn-Jeßnitz.

It’s political goings on don’t change the fact that Raguhn-Jeßnitz (or parts of it, anyway) fall into the Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve, and within the Düben Heath.

Oh yeah, lots and lots of hiking trails through the countryside. Biking paths are always an option too along this glacial valley.

Whether you’re hoofing it, or biking it, the sites of Raguhn-Jeßnitz won’t change like the seasons. The Baroque Garden Maze in the village of Altjeßnitz doesn’t change its location.

The maze, BTW, is located alongside where Altjeßnitz Castle used to be. It had originally been built here in 1699, destroyed by a fire in 1946 — and by the time the 1970s rolled around, the castle was totally demolished.

One of Martin Luther’s contemporaries, Philipp Melanchthon, was here visiting the Altjeßnitz Village Church (which looks more like a chapel) in 1533.

In Jeßnitz, a town in the Düben Heath, also is a cloister ruin to see. The Klosterruine Salegast is located in the Salegast Forest; and the Fascist Memorial can be found on Leopoldstraße.

I’m sorry if it seems like I’m all over the place, just trying to hit up all of Raguhn-Jeßnitz’s villages.

For anyone interested in visiting the UNESCO Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve, the villages of Lingenau, Tornau vor der Heide, and Marke are found along its edge.

Marke also has the Bockwindmühle (a mill) and the Glockenturm (Bell Tower) to see; and it’s where the annual Village Festival (at Pentecost) is held.

Schierau is another village along the Biosphere, and it’s got a crumbling brick, and a military defense-like tower Village Church.

By no means am I saying this like a bad thing — I don’t know what it is about this decaying church, I love it just the way it is.

Schierau is also where you’ll find the Kriegerstein, or Warrior Stone. The big boulder with the Iron Cross was originally put here back in the 1920s for the 13 men it lost during World War I. After World War II, a memorial plaque was added.

WWII history doesn’t end here. In the town of Raguhn, there was a subcamp of both the Buchenwald and Ravensbrück Concentration Camps here.

Thankfully they’re long gone, but the St. James Church and the St. George Church still remain.

Maybe the politicians had a point by combining all these villages — it keeps it all together in one place.

Südharz — More Crowded With Books Than People

January 19th, 2015

Thanks to the reorganizing of a few towns and villages in January 2010 there’s now a newly formed town, Südharz, which I had to check out for myself.

Interesting how Südharz’s least populated village has only 106 residents, and its most populated at 2,244 in Roßla. And Schwenda, with less than 600 inhabitants, is the oldest of them all, established in 532 A.D.

No matter how you slice it all up — this place is most definitely not crowded. ;-)

Südharz isn’t known for its population explosion, it’s known for its Heimkehle Cave. It’s the largest gypsum cave of its kind, with ceiling reaching 20 feet high. Today the caves holds a laser show, and has a Mining Museum — but back during WWII the cave acted as a weapons factory.

To go back to mining for a minute, let me tell you about Südharz’s Bauerngraben. It’s like a combination of creek and trench, that fills with water (sometimes 15 meters deep) and empties totally dry — thanks to the mining pits.

It’s not about mining when you’re off to see the castle of Südharz. There’s a wide gap of differences between Burg Stolberg and Schloss Roßla, just so you know.

Burg Stolberg is one of those medieval castles, whose original can be dated to the 10th century.

Schloss Roßla, on the other hand, is light & airy — a Classicist design from the 19th century. The castle might be a Community Center with a 6-acre park, but I was more impressed with how the castle had a library with over 30,000 volumes.

What a nice way of saying it had tens of thousands of books. Don’t you just wish you had another whole lifetime to do that kind of reading?

I’m not sure if the observation deck of the Josephkreuz in Stolberg would be the ideal place for reading a book. No, I’m pretty much sure it’s no place to read. Now, take your eyeballs off the page, and go scope out the scenery.

Then go see the St. Martini Church in Stolberg where Martin Luther himself preached. You’d think that be it on church visiting, but the half-timbered/stone church in Kleinlein is a striking medieval structure; and the Sts. Cyriak & Nicholas Church is a fascinating Baroque design from 1736.

The fact that Südharz isn’t crowded with people, but books on the other hand, is a different story. ;-)

Wettin-Löbejün — Mighty Castle, Mighty History

January 19th, 2015

How many of you out there “do your homework” before traveling? People don’t just pickup and say, “Hey, I’m going to Wettin-Löbejün in Saxony-Anhalt. See ya!”

I’m no different, and I was excited to see a city along the epic Fürstenstraße der Wettiner, or Princes of Wettin Route.

The center of this route is the Wettin Castle, along the banks of the Saale River. What got my fur up was the fact that someone called this place “an overly built castle.”

What?

First off, this is a castle (sorry, it’s actually two castles); and it’s supposed to be a bit over the top. It was built over a thousand years ago, and has walls 2-meters thick. And its Knights Templar Chapel helps in making this castle so “overly built”, even though the entire complex is now a school. Lucky pupils.

Secondly, the castle was the center of an 800-year old ruling family (that’s still got descendents in most of Europe’s royal families today). Hell, if you got a scenic route named after you — your castle can be as overly built as you want.

OK, enough ranting. I’m missing out seeing the Marienkirche in the village of Rothenburg. Which also, BTW, has prehistoric burial mounds from the Bronze Age, and castle remains. You can do it all by bike, the Saale Cycle Route runs right along.

From the look of things here in Wettin-Löbejün, you wouldn’t know that the area was heavily bombed during World War II because of its oil factories. In the Cemetery Park, there’s an obelisk for seven people who lost their lives at the hands of the Third Reich.

It’s nice the 12th century St. Nicholas Church (it’s a true Romanesque church) still stands, but after the Reformation it became a Protestant Church.

Much of Wettin-Löbejün’s history (like its Wettin Family & its role in the Reformation) can be learned at the Heritage Museum. Or, just meander around all the half-timbered houses you’ll find in the town’s 11 districts.

I think Wettin-Löbejün is fantastic… even though its castle is a bit “overly built.” ;-)

Oberharz am Brocken — Disputed Name, Great Place

January 18th, 2015

I’m not sure why the town of Oberarz am Brocken’s name has been disputed. Hell, I’m not even sure where I even heard such a thing. What I do know is this 271 square kilometer town in western Saxony-Anhalt didn’t even exist before January 1, 2010.

In respect to its individual villages and towns, the oldest of which from the 10th century (Eggeröder Brunnen), I’ll tell you about most of them.

Trautenstein is the fun-loving village of the bunch. Every year they hold a 3-day shooting event, an Oktoberfest, a Fair in August, a St. Martin Parade in November, and that’s not evening counting all the winter sleigh & carriage rides, Nordic Walking trails, and winter hiking activities.

Whewwww… that’s a lot, isn’t it?

It’s a bit quieter in Sorge, where you can visit the Local History Museum (with archaeology exhibits) and a Border Museum, since this area was once along the border of a divided Germany.

Long before the Cold War, Tanne was a spa town. It still is, as a matter of fact. Not only can you treat yourself to a spa service (or two), but hiking along the 7.5 km circular trail is good for the brain — you’ll learn all sorts of stuff on the info boards.

Time to head to Hasselfelde, home to the annual Kohler Festival on the first weekend of August. It also has an Easter bonfire, and an old Sawmill and the Church of St. Anthony to visit.

One of the most interesting churches is the small wooden one in the village of Elend. This village also lies close to a nature reserve area, and has a memorial to what was once the “inner” German border.

One of my favorite shires in Oberharz am Brocken is Benneckenstein. Why? Well, because not only does it have an East German Car Museum, a Railway Museum, miniature golfing, and a 19th century church (St. Laurentius) — but because it’s got a HUGE Pentecost Festival that kicks off at 6 AM on Whit Monday. There’s a big bonfire, lots of food, plenty of drinking.

As if that’s not enough, Benneckenstein has a large festival known as the Laurentiade on the first Sunday in September, but also a “Border Run” on the third weekend of February.

The funny part is who the heck has time to argue over a name? There’s way too much to see and do here in Oberharz am Brocken — or whatever else anyone wants to call it.

Salzatal — Home To A General And A Lieutenant

January 18th, 2015

Yeah, the politicians stuck again. Thanks to you guys, I’ve now spent my entire week up here in Saxony-Anhalt figuring out these towns that you created on January 1, 2010. Places like the 21 village town of Salzatal, where I am now.

The villages here are much older, of course, they were established in the 10th, 11th and 12th centuries.

In the village of Schochwitz you’ll find a castle, once home to Gerneral Hermann von Alvensleben. It was also home to Lt. General Ludolf Hermann von Alvensleben. While the two share sort of the same name, General Alvensleben was a Prussian soldier in the 19th century, and the Lt. General was member of the Third Reich’s Waffen-SS.

The history of Salzatal doesn’t end here. There’s another castle (a 19th century one) over in Beesenstedt, but sadly the 13th century Schloss Beesenstedt doesn’t exist anymore. But if you’re standing at the racetrack, that’s where it used to be.

Of course if any of these villages are old enough to have a 13th century castle, they’re old enough to have medieval churches. Bennstedt is where you’ll find one from the 13th century.

The St. Stephen Church in Flenstedt is also a nice place to stop; and it’s got mansions and farmhouses to see as well.

Too bad, a fire ravaged the original medieval church in Lieskau (which borders Bennstedt), so it had to be rebuilt in the 18th century.

At least Lieskau is lucky enough to border the Dölauer Heide, so if hiking’s on your “to do” list in Salzatal, then here’s your big chance.

Scoping out a huge archaeological dig might be on some people’s list of things to do, so for that you’ll want to go to Salzmünde (first mentioned in 979). I think the part stone/part half-timber constructed Town Hall is worth the time to come here.

But, then again, so is Kloschwitz because of its two Kneipp areas and camping facilities. OK, it’s annual Blossom Festival at the end of April helps too.

The last stop in Salzatal is Zappendorf, where there’s not only a nature park but three churches, three mills, but a whole bunch of hiking trails too.

At this rate, I’ll be here in Saxony-Anhalt for two weeks — probably longer if the politicians keep creating new towns here. ;-)

Muldestausee — Young Politically, Mature Culturally

January 17th, 2015

When you arrive in Muldestausee say hello to Germany’s tax euros at work. You see, on January 1, 2010 there were thirteen independent villages that were collectively added together to make this “new” town.

However “young” Muldestausee is in political terms, the town’s quite historical. And kind of big, encompassing some 136 square kilometers with just over 12,000 residents.

Established in the year 981, one of the oldest villages is Pouch, with its 13th century castle. But it’s quite young at heart since it hosts an annual Reggae/Hip-Hop Festival. This village also has its own Spring Break Festival and Christmas Market.

Friedersdorf doesn’t want to be left of the Christmas cheer, this is why this little village holds its Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) at the end of November.

Who could forget about Muldenstein, who also has its own Weihnachtsmarkt. This village even has a castle and an 11th century church to see on top of it.

Another hamlet with its own market is Schlaitz, which hosts an Advent Bake Festival in early December. That’s a lot of cooking for a place that’s not even five square kilometers. Oh, so that means it won’t take any time at all to see Schlaitz’s Village Church (built 1287) and its Franco-German War Memorial.

Schwemsal has a memorial of sorts too. The graveyard is the final resting place of Soviet forced labor from World War II. A visit to the village church would also be nice.

Rösa too has World War II graves, this time of Polish forced laborers. The village also lies along the end of the Dübener Heide, so there isn’t any place better to enjoy a nature walk. Good place for an annual Park Festival in August.

Whatever the reasons the politicians had for creating the new Muldestausee, it worked in our favor, because now we get to enjoy everything all in one place.

Ebersbach-Neugersdorf — Relaxing Beauty

January 16th, 2015

I don’t like to start off a town on a “bad note” but the town of Ebersbach-Neugersdorf has been losing its population, despite the merge of Ebersbach and Neugersdorf back in 2011. But, because I’m a “glass half-full” kinda person I’ll choose to see it as there’s more room for you and me. ;-)

Where is this place? Oh, easy, in eastern Saxony, in a region known as Upper Lusatia, right on the German and Czech Republic border. So, if you hear folks speaking Czech — you went too far. ;-)

It seems a little remote out here, doesn’t it? Yeah, but at least you’re not scrounging for a way to get around — the town itself is accessible by some six bus lines, and the Bischofswerda-Zittau railway.

Additionally, two sources of the Spree start here — one in Neugersdorf, another in Ebersbach, and the countryside from atop the nearby Spitzberg is just spectacular.

For a bit of fun, there’s a summer toboggan track that zings down the mountainside.

Ebersbach-Neugersdorf isn’t just about some outdoor hiking or tobogganing on Upper Lusatian Mountains. Heck no, the Jacobimarkt has been going on in town since 1728. It’s been said it’s one of the biggest of its kind in all of Upper Lusatia.

Despite its small size Ebersbach has quite a few museums. (Take that big city!) There’s a Fire Museum, which is NOT a place where pyromaniacs set things ablaze. It’s a museum dedicated to the heroic Fire Brigade.

The other museum in town is the Local History Museum, known in German as the Heimatmuseum; but also called the Heritage Museum around these parts. It’s got exhibits on the town’s economy, daily life, and how it was when the town was part of East Germany.

Speaking of when Ebersbach was part of the German Democratic Republic, there’s a memorial at the Neue Rathaus (New Town Hall) on Reichstraße 1 to those who suffered under Fascism; and another to resistance fighter Oswald Richter who died at the Dachau Concentration Camp in 1943.

For a change of pace from the museums and the historic, rent a bicycle and explore the countryside. It’s all right if you don’t like to ride a bike since there are plenty of walking trails to do instead (the views from the observation tower are simply splendid). Don’t want to get lost? Get in on one of the guided hiking tours available.

If that’s still too much effort just relax at Ebersbach’s outdoor pool, look around the Botanical Garden, sculpture park, or take photos of the many timber-framed houses.

After a good rest go over to the Evangelical Lutheran Church. It’s got three floors, galleries, and fantastic artwork — it should since it was built during the Baroque period in 1726.

Moving over to Neugersdorf, the very fact that many residents from the Czech towns of Rumburk (its German name is Rumburg) and Filipov (whose German name is Georgswalde) used to come to Neugersdorf to work in its textile industry — makes it worth a note here.

Two of the more popular spots to see in Neugersdorf are the Bismarckturm, or Bismarck Tower, built in 1904; and the Baroque Evangelical Lutheran church from the 1730s. Add in a stop to the Rathaus (Town Hall) to see the Fascism Monument, while you’re at it.

From the looks of it today, you’d never guess that Neugersdorf was deserted for decades back in the 1500s thanks to it be destroyed by the Hussites. It took a long time for it to make a comeback afterwards, with barely 300 people living here right up until the late 1700s.

I’m not so sure why no one wanted to be here — it’s certainly nice enough these days, even with those bureaucrats changing things. ;-)

Oebisfelde-Weferlingen — Meet Up With Roland

January 16th, 2015

In the town of Oebisfelde-Weferlingen, I met up again with my friend Roland. Roland, if you remember, is a knight (always with a sword) that gives a town its municipal rights. And you see Roland right outside of the Town Hall.

For a while there it was hard to see Roland, as Oebisfelde fell right along the East German border. Now everyone could stop by to see him.

Now that you’ve said hello to my buddy, you’re free to see Burg Oebisfelde. Not only is this castle quite a piece of history (it was built sometime between the years 900 and 1000), but it’s unique as it’s known as a Sumpfburg (Swamp Castle) for which there are less than a handful of them in Germany.

FYI, a Swamp Castle uses the land’s natural terrain for part of its defense system.

The castle’s used today as a museum, houses a library and tourist information center, and is the venue for Oebisfelde’s Old Town Festival in June or the Oebisfelde Castle Christmas (a Christmas Market held every December). You don’t need that excuse to see its 27-meter high tower or its chapel.

Oebisfelde even has its own leaning tower, which belongs to the Church of St. Catherine. The church was built in the 13th century, and is still used for Sunday services and as a concert venue.

Surrounded by half-timbered houses, St. Catherine’s is also flanked by the St. Nicholas Church. What’s remarkable is this 19th century church is exactly the same size as its Romanesque neighbor.

Over in Weferlingen is the Burgruine Weferlingen. Only its keep and outer walls (some 2.5 meters thick) remain, and there’s talk of restoring the lowland castle back to how it was before it was abandoned in 1717. Good luck.

One other ruin is a must-see, the Stiftskirche Walbeck. This is the reason why Oebisfelde-Weferlingen meets up with the Romanesque Route. Even if it’s only its shell that remains, it’s still a gorgeous piece of 10th century medieval architecture.

Yet another must-see is Schloss Seggerde, a former Water Castle from the 13th century in the Seggerde district.

It’s not right to just limit yourself to ruins and castles here in Oebisfelde-Weferlingen. Being outdoors is a good idea, so find a hiking trail in the Drömling Nature Park. At Christmas time the park has guided hikes that talk about the Drömling’s elves and mystical places.

Funny, I kind of think just about all of Oebisfelde-Weferlingen is mystical. I’ll see you all later — I want to say bye to Roland; and I’ll tell him how much you loved his town.

Südliches Anhalt Gave Birth To Triplets?

January 16th, 2015

Even I was a bit flabbergasted at how many villages and hamlets made up the (politically new) town of Südliches Anhalt. Um, there are seventy of them total.

It didn’t used to be like that. Almost all of them were combined on January 1, 2010, with three more added just nine months later. Wow, it’s almost like Südliches Anhalt gave birth the triplets. ;-)

You know I’m only joking around, but I do take some things quite seriously. Sightseeing around small German villages is one of ’em.

Because there are so many hamlets and villages, I don’t have the time to experience all of them — but I will fill you in on what I did scope out.

Edderitz is where you can swim every May to September at the lake. No worry about it being crowded, it takes up some 40 acres.

A more traditional outdoor pool is found in Glauzig, and also offers a volleyball court, a tennis court, and beer garden. Oh, well, who needs anything else?

I do. I need some history to go along with the great outdoors. For that you gotta head to the village of Großbadegast for its 16th century altarpiece at the local church.

Then it’s over to Weißandt-Götzau for its 12th century church, and its castle ruins. In Gröbzig there is an old synagogue and Jewish cemetery, and its Schlossturm (Castle Tower) dates from the 9th century.

Despite that, I believe that Piethen is the oldest village of them all, born in 973.

Over in Trebbichau an der Fuhne the old church was built in the 11th century, and the village pond is a lovely place to sit while you figure out where to go next.

Make it Riesdorf, with its Fire Museum. Not real fire mind you, but equipment used for firefighting over the centuries.

Wieskau is a good place too — you’ll love its 18th century Baroque Church. It is also along the Fuhne river, which is a tributary of the Saale.

I could keep going, as there are plenty more villages and hamlets that I haven’t seen yet. But, with almost 200 square kilometers to cover I’ll be here until my next birthday, I think. And by then Südliches Anhalt might’ve given birth to another set of triplets, or something. ;-)

preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload