Belgern-Schildau — Rocking With Roland Along The Elbe

January 24th, 2015

Roland, my old friend, nice to see you again. I had no idea we’d meet again here in Belgern-Schildau — and I can’t wait to tell everyone about your wonderful town.

In addition to meeting up with Roland, a symbol of an “independent city” (and whose statue here is gigantic), the twenty-two districts of Belgern-Schildau in Saxony are pretty awesome.

It’s a tad bit hard to break down that many hamlets, so I’ll just give you the rundown of Belgern-Schildau as a whole, OK?

Tthe biggest of all the towns are Belgern and Schildau themselves — both of which each had their own Rathaus, or Town Hall. I’m partial to the Belgern Town Hall (built 1575), whose pinkish hue glows even brighter in the fading sunlight.

As pretty as a Town Hall is, I’m enchanted by the Nixenkind, which are strange stone images found at the entrance to the town’s church in Belgern. You could try to figure out the who/what/why & how of them, but no one over the centuries has had a clue as to why they’re there — they’re not exactly traditional church adornments, that’s for sure.

When it comes to traditional, the Oschatzer Tor sure fits the bill for what a proper medieval city gate is supposed to look like; and it’s the last of the original four that once stood here.

I’ve said it a million times now, if there’s a City Museum (Local History Museum, etc) it’s best to go — they’re the best places to learn tidbits of great information. The City Museum here in Belgern-Schildau offers up exhibits on everything from Pre & Early History, to its more modern history. No easy feat considering the town of Schildau itself was founded almost 900 years ago.

When the sheer scale of Belgern-Schildau’s history is too much to consider, go find yourself cycling along the Elbe Bike Path, or on one of the town’s marked hiking trails. While you’re out there, I’d suggest visiting the church in the village of Neußen, whose arched windows and dark exterior make for a great snapshot.

See, it wasn’t the history of the place — it’s a pure photo-op. ;-)

Anyway, the Saxon countryside is also more than just hiking trails along the Elbe River. The Neumühlenteich is a pond where you can go paddle boating and canoeing — super fun! And the Seebad Schildau is a pleasant swimming area with both a wading pool and waterslide.

The best part of it all? You’re not even done with Belgern-Schildau yet. It’s a fun-loving town with great festivals like the Oktoberfest (with traditional keg tapping to kick off the festivities), plus there’s the Dancing into May events, and a really fun Village Festival, too.

Ain’t it great to be rockin’ with Roland?

Pockau-Lengefeld — Another Soon-To-Be UNESCO Site?

January 23rd, 2015

With the merger of Pockau and Lengefeld on January 1, 2014, a new town was created — known these days as Pockau-Lengefeld.

Ha-ha, I know, how original, right?

Whatever its name, nothing changes the fact that Pockau and Lengefeld are perfectly located to enjoy such scenic routes as the Silberstraße, or Silver Route, that runs all the way from Zwickau to Dresden. Industry was vital to the local economy — in this case, mining.

Oh, if you think you’re only gonna get away with visiting just those two towns alone, you’ve got another thing coming — it is actually fourteen towns & villages.

Don’t balk, these dozen-plus hamlets are full of architectural wonders — like the church in Forchheim. While the present day church is dripping with Baroque accents, the original church is some 500 years old.

The same can be said about the church in Lippersdorf, a medieval original from the 13th century — but whose present church is only from the 1830s. Still, that is some 200 years old; a long time ago, wouldn’t you say?

And be thankful you’re visiting these days, place like Lengefeld were once famous for their witch hunts. Ahh, the Middle Ages, it wasn’t so easy on the average Joe now, was it?

As dark and superstitious as the medieval period once was, they certainly knew how to build a castle. Take Burg Rauenstein, for example. Well, you’re only able to see its exterior these days, but even from the outside you can appreciate a 14th century building when you see one, right?

While not anywhere near as old as the castle, the Kurfürstliche Amtsfischerei is another awesome looking building. The Fisheries Office is a grand example of half-timbered architecture from the 1650s, as well as doubling as a museum.

Sounds good so far, right? Well, there’s more… Industry was the lifeblood of Pockau-Lengefeld, and the Kalkwerk is a great museum to explain it all (as is the Tourist Office at Markt 1). There’s talk of making the Kalkwerk a UNESCO site in the near future — that would be nice.

In the meantime, the town hosts the Lime Kiln Festival every two years (and the Fishing Festival every June).

Pockau-Lengefeld is perfect to enjoy, no matter what you’re into, or whatever its name is these days. ;-)

Schladen-Werla — Medieval Wonders Never Cease To Amaze

January 23rd, 2015

Sliced by the Oker River in the Wolfenbüttel District in Lower Saxony is the defunct Samtgemeinde Schladen, now known as Schladen-Werla. It was created in 2013 by merging what was nine independent towns & villages into one in the Braunschweiger Land.

Each of Schladen-Werla’s “districts” are unique onto themselves, but it really is the town of Hornburg that’s got the most to offer.

Nevermind, I take that back. Hornburg isn’t home to a 9th century Imperial Palace like the town of Werlaburgdorf. The medieval castle complex, known as the Königspfalz, boasted a chapel, a basement, even a guardhouse and kitchen.

Schladen itself is home to a snake farm, where boys and girls of all ages can learn about snakes, lizards, and even crocodiles. Not too shabby, right?

As for Hornburg, it’s the birthplace of the 11th century Pope Clement II. This village also has its own castle (its landmark, no less), half-timbered houses, and a Heritage Museum. The museum, open on the first Sunday of the month, has exhibits on everything from the town’s Neolithic beginnings to the more modern medieval period.

Another museum is the Biedermeier House, giving visitors a chance to see what a traditional house from the 19th/20th centuries looked like — right down to its living room, kitchen, and even a sewing room.

A room dedicated to sewing? Ahh, the joys of living in the 21st century. ;-)

Hornburg even has this interactive “Garden for the Senses,” or Garten für die Sinne, that runs through the town — all designed to delight the eyes, hearing, touch, and smell. Consider it a fun way to take a “guided” tour of town.

However, as great as the exhibits found at the museums (and everything else), it is the gorgeous Beatae Mariae Virginis Church that steals the show. Its organ is a work of art — and a true church worthy of Clement himself. It’s no wonder the church, and Schladen-Werla, is found on the Via Romea — an 1800 km ancient pilgrimage route that runs from Stade to Rome.

A scenic route, too? Wow, the wonders of Schladen-Werla never cease to amaze. ;-)

Lauter-Bernsbach — 21st Century Meets History

January 22nd, 2015

I don’t know what some German bureaucrat had in mind when they merged the two towns of Lauter and Bernsbach together in 2013. Yes, they created a new “town,” but these two gems in the Erzgebirgskreis have been around so much longer than only the second decade of the 21st century.

How do I know? Well, would a brand-new 21st century town have a 13th century church, like the one in Lauter? No, I think not.

Lauter, by the way, is so much more than just its Parish Church. It’s a town of some 4,700 people, where folks get together for community hikes during holidays like Easter. Another community event in Lauter is the annual Christmas Market — great fun to be had by all.

Lauter-Bernsbach is also known for its spirits — the drinking kind, not ghosts. A locally made liqueur is made in this part of Saxony, so be sure to bring some home for yourself.

You can learn a lot more about this delicious libation at the Spirits Museum; and factory tours to see how the liqueurs are made is also possible.

I guess any place that enjoys a good drink is a place that enjoys a good party. At the beginning of October Lauter-Bernsbach hosts the three-day Vugelbeerfast, a folk festival of sorts, with everything from a church service to fireworks, with music and even a Craft Market.

Multi-day events are popular here, the Kirmes celebration is another 2-days of fun. Too bad the Lantern Procession & Hexenfeuer is only a 1-day event on April 30th, as is the Gemeindefest (in Bernsbach) every July, and the Waldfest (Forest Festival) in June.

Oh well, I’ll have to take solace on one of Lauter-Bernsbach’s hiking and cycling trails. The Mulderadweg is a nice one if you like to bicycle around. And every year from May to September, Indian Point is open to learn about Native American culture — including seeing a tee-pee.

When winter comes it’s off to one of the nearby ski resorts — proving the town can be enjoyed in every season of the 21st century and beyond.

Arnstein (Harz) — Romantic Writing In The Harz

January 22nd, 2015

Call it fate. Call it coincidence. Call it fantastic, but this week I got to do not one, but two, towns made famous for its writers. Right now I’m in the (politically new) town of Arnstein (Harz), birthplace to Novalis.

Nov-what?

It’s not a what — but a who. His birthname was Georg Philipp Friedrich Freiherr von Hardenberg. No wonder someone shortened his name to Novalis, but whatever name you’re using to address him he was considered to be one of the best Romantic writers of his time.

Too bad he died at the tender age of 28. In his lifetime, however, he was a contemporary of Schiller and Goethe.

Novalis was born at Schloss Oberwiederstedt, a Renaissance castle that’s still here today; and now a research facility and museum of Novalis’ work.

Tempting as it is to curl up with one of Novalis’ work, we gotta move on to see the rest of Arnstein.

We can start with another castle, if you like? Who cares if it isn’t an intact castle. Burg Arnstein — plus the Schloss Harkerode — both in the village of Hakerode, are worth visiting.

And if you think this medieval ditty (the castle ruin was built around 1130) is old, I can only imagine what you’ll think of the Bronze Age “rings” atop the Schalkenberg in the village of Quenstedt.

While you’re in Quenstedt, stop to see the Reformation Tree — planted here in 1520, making it almost five hundred years old.

Where else should we go? I know, how about to all of Arnstein’s village churches? The one in Sylda is one of those medieval numbers, and even has a “military” tower.

Alterode too has a village church with a military tower, but also has a half-timbered design as well.

What’s with the military towers? Easy, churches were used as defense against invaders, in addition to religious duties.

The village of Welbsleben has its own village church, and in the cemetery is the final resting place for 13 Death March victims of the Second World War.

For the fun side of Arnstein, you gotta go to the eastern edge of the Harz to Bräunrode, which holds its Village Festival on the 2nd weekend of July. And then go back to Alterode for a 4-day festival that ends with an “egg hunt” of sorts.

I totally understand what must’ve inspired Novalis — if I spend anymore time here I might wind up writing some romantic story too.

Nordharz — Castle Snapping Along The Green Belt

January 22nd, 2015

If it wasn’t for one of my favorite castles in Saxony-Anhalt I might not have ever found the (politically young) town of Nordharz, situated along the Ecker River. You’ll find it located just one town over from Wernigerode (yes, that would mean that Wernigerode Castle is one of my ultimate favorites), and is a stop on the Grünes Band (Green Belt).

There are eight localities that make up the town of Nordharz, which also sits along the Harz Nature Park. Actually, there would be nine, if the village of Rimmerode wasn’t totally deserted.

Yeah, I guess that makes it a ghost town of sorts. ;-)

In that case, let’s get back to the other eight. Abbenrode was once on the Inner German border, but its military style church tower has lasted much longer than the Cold War.

Danstedt’s contribution to Nordharz’s sightseeing is its windmill, built in 1817. On Mill Day, it’s the venue for all sorts of festivities.

Most of the sightseeing to be done is in the village of Stapelburg. This is the reason Nordharz is on the Green Belt, and you’ll find it right on the border of Lower Saxony. You’ll also find the ruins of a medieval castle (Burg Stapelburg, which was originally used by the Counts of Wernigerode), hiking around the Harz Border Trail, and the final resting place of forced laborers of World War II.

While Langeln might’ve been a “home base” of sorts for the crusading German Order of Knights, it’s Schmatzfeld that’s got the medieval cemetery.

As with most medieval towns, you’re bound to have a church or two. Yet, the one in the village of Heudeber didn’t come along until the 19th century.

A great place to think about all great things in Nordharz is the English style gardens in the village of Wasserleben. Or, you can always take a walk along the Ilse River instead.

Afterwards meet me at Wernigerode Castle, and tell me all about how you liked Nordharz.

Seeland — Old Mining Town On The Romanesque Route

January 21st, 2015

What I need (I think) is a straight month in Saxony-Anhalt to see all the towns that were “created” recently. This time it’s Seeland, a mining town that was made by combining a handful of villages that were once part of a collective municipality.

In 2009 the villages of Friedrichsaue (this place has a fantastic Village Church), Frose, Hoym, Schadeleben (which funny enough translates to Bad Living — go figure), and Nachterstedt became Seeland, with Gartersleben added just over a year later.

And just because the town got a new name, doesn’t mean there isn’t anything historical to see — and you’ll even find this place on one of Germany’s famous scenic routes.

The even better part is, Seeland is fun on top of it all. But, I’ll get to that.

Take Friedrichsaue for example. It has a charming village church, and it’s also the location for the annual Village Festival every August.

Hoym is another village that you’ll want to see. This hamlet too has its own Village Church, find the mass grave of 18 people who died during a Death March in World War II, and where you’ll find the manor-house looking Town Hall. The town has its own festival, the Summer Festival every July.

Since Seeland was a mining town, and if you’re interested in industry, the best place to see where it was all done is the village of Nachterstedt — home to what was once one of the largest mining operations in Prussia, and is the final resting place for Soviet soldiers over on the Kiesberg.

Prefer the castles instead? OK, you can see what was once part of a castle (the keep, actually) in Gartersleben at the Oberhof, that’s now a park.

Gartersleben has more than that, ya know. It’s St. Stephens Lutheran Church (which you’ll most definitely want to see) is over four centuries old, and if you look close enough, you’ll find fish ponds all over the place.

No, you’re not going to fall in. ;-)

In the famous village of Frose, the town of Seeland meets the Romanesque Route. The grey-stone Abbey Church of St. Cyriakus, a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture from the 12th century (the original church is from the 10th century), is the reason why.

Frose truly is one of the most charming villages in the Northeast Harz Region, situated along the banks of the Selke River. It hosts the Seeland Festival, a Christmas Market, and a Childrens festival in June.

Speaking of the Selke, it isn’t the only water (besides the fish ponds). The Concordiasee is a huge water attraction, and it got bigger over time. It’s said that, nowadays, the Concordiasee is some 61-meters deep covering over three square kilometers with all the overflowing water from the Köningsauer See.

Besides, there’s a marina and a 250-passenger boat (the MS Seelandperle) that’ll shuttle you around. Oh yeah, there’s even a big festival here in the middle of August every year.

Forget the month in Saxony-Anhalt, I think I need a month in Seeland alone. ;-)

Oranienbaum-Wörlitz — Top Stop On The Oranier Route

January 21st, 2015

The town of Oranienbaum-Wörlitz is south of Coswig (Anhalt), to the northeast is Lutherstadt Wittenberg, and due east is Kemberg. You’d think that with all this fantastic real estate surrounding it, that’s what one would remember most.

Nope.

The memory of Oranienbaum-Wörlitz isn’t even in the fact that you’ll find it on the Oranier Route, a scenic route all about the House of Orange.

What stands out is this place of just under 8,700 residents once had 12 breweries. ;-)

I’m not kidding about the breweries, but I am kidding about not remembering much else. How could anyone possibly forget about the countryside that sits right at the foot of the Düben Heath, and lies within UNESCO’s Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve?

Nor, is it possible to forget that the village of Brandhorst, located on the banks of the Elbe, is the smallest hamlet in Saxony-Anhalt. Not me, I tell you.

The town of Oranienbaum itself hosts an annual Orange Festival in May, a Park Festival in June, and has a gorgeous Christmas Market. No leaving before you’ve visited the 18th century Baroque church, OK?

What about Wörlitz itself, you ask? It is pretty awesome. People flock to the Wörlitz Lake and its sand dunes for some watersporting recreational fun. Plus the lake is also a musical venue, with all sorts of concerts taking place here.

And not to be outdone in the festival department, Wörlitz hosts a Spring Festival just after the Spring Equinox, an annual Pottery Market (last weekend of August), celebrates Heritage Day on the second Sunday in September, and has its very own Christmas Market on the first weekend of Advent.

Just the same here in Wörlitz as in Oranienbaum — you can’t move on to anything else before you’ve at least stopped at the Church of St. Peter, albeit a neo-Gothic style church this time.

What? No castle? Of course there’s a castle. Schloss Oranienbaum, which is more like a palace, really. Sorry, if you’re on a hunt for a dark, draughty, dreary medieval one — you’re not gonna find it. This is bright, cheery, ornately decorated castle, fit for the House of Orange that still rules over a European country to this day (not Germany though).

No, it’s not easy to forget Oranienbaum-Wörlitz — and I most certainly wouldn’t want to.

Osternienburger Land — Bring On Hockey Then History

January 20th, 2015

Oh yeah, bring it on. High sticking, penalty shots, icing calls, and checks into the boards. It’s about time to talk some hockey in the (politically new) town of Osternienburger Land.

Why hockey?

How about, why not hockey? Germany’s got every imaginable sport under the sun, and hockey ain’t no different.

I say this because Osternienburger Land is home to the Osternienburg HC, a hockey club that’s gone on to produce many famous players for the East German Hockey Team.

Hockey is still played here, mostly in the town of Osternienburg.

A little cold-weather sport like hockey never hurt anyone (yeah right), but we could be talking about less pleasant things like the F3 tornado that hit the village of Micheln in 2004, destroying almost three-quarters of the hamlet.

It’s not all bad news and hockey. Almost all of the villages in Osternienburger Land lie within or along the UNESCO Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve.

Villages like Dornbock and Trinum, with the latter also having its own village church.

Osternienburger Land also has a number of prehistoric megalithic graves. In Drosa, everyone comes to see the Teufelskeller, or Devil’s Cellar.

I don’t know how these prehistoric guys did it, they have supporting stones holding up the exceptionally heavy capstone. And they did it all without any kind of heavy-duty machinery.

That wasn’t the only grave around here, a Bronze Age graveyard was found; and evidence that Drosa started from an Iron Age settlement.

Megalithic graves can also be found in the village of Wulfen, just so you know.

If it’s a museum you want, you’ll need to go to Reppichau; and in the village of Großpaschleben there’s a medieval farmhouse and Baroque mansion.

Don’t worry if you get tired, in Chörau you’ll find a resting area for those willing to hike the long-distance R1 hiking trail.

Not me, I’ll be screaming my head off for the Osternenburg HC. Gotta go… hockey fight! ;-)

Seegebiet Mansfelder Land — Sweet, Salty, Spicy?

January 20th, 2015

What a long name the new town of Seegebiet Mansfelder Land in Saxony-Anhalt has. Another thing it’s got is a Sweet Lake and a Salty Lake.

I haven’t found a Hot & Spicy Lake here yet though. Give me enough time, and I’m sure I will. ;-)

Forget the jokes for a minute. Seegebiet Mansfelder Land is a town of 15 districts that borders Lutherstadt Eisleben, and is pretty close to Halle.

What it also does is make wine. In fact, many vineyards frame the Süße See (uh, that would be the Sweet Lake).

On the southern side of the Süße See is Aseleben, a village famous for its fruits (yummy, cherries & plums), and its annual Pentecostal Events.

Lüttchendorf is also on the Sweet Lake, but it’s Seeburg that grabs much of the lake’s attention. Every year they have a Lake in Flames Festival in July, and its Schloss Seeburg takes up considerable waterfront property.

The castle, BTW, wasn’t put here during the Renaissance because of its Renaissance-style appearance. Nope, this was a medieval castle first — and before that the hillside was used during prehistoric times.

Wansleben am See is also on the Sweet Lake, and once an area for the big industry of potash mining.

On the northern side of that lake is Dederstedt, which also sits along a nature park. It’s also where the Laweke River flows — and where you can see the Church of St. Susanna, which was built in 1230.

I know I keep mentioning the Sweet Lake, but what about the salty one? The Salziger See, which gets its water from the Weide-Salzke, dried up.

No, really, back in 1895, the lake lost more than 30 million cubic gallons of water almost overnight. Now more than a hundred years later, the lake is only 15-percent of its former glory.

At this point, I still haven’t found the Hot & Spicy Lake — but still continuing to look.

Next stop? Erdeborn and its Old Windmill and Church of St. Bartholomew. Even better this village has a Summer Festival, a Family Festival (3rd weekend of August), and a Christmas Market.

I don’t think it gets any sweeter than that. No wonder the lakes are so sweetly named. Forget Hot & Spicy — I’m done looking, to stay right here.

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