Kleinwallstadt — Half-Timbered Gems Among Medieval Sites

December 3rd, 2014

First impressions, for the most part, are usually correct. Not this time, my friends. It took a second look at the town of Kleinwallstadt for me to fully appreciate this Lower Franconian town.

I thought being only 15 square kilometers it couldn’t possibly have much to offer me. I’ll be honest, it doesn’t have a whole lot in terms of having a multitude of castles or more sporting activities you can shake a stick at, or a whole bunch of village churches like you find around some other towns.

What it does have, are little lanes and streets of half-timbered houses like the ones on Eichelsbacher Straße in its village of Hofstetten. Some of them are from the 17th century, so that’s how long they’ve been here. Also on Eichelsbacher Straße is the Pfarrkirche St. Michael, a Lutheran church whose tower is its oldest part — from 1473, if you’re curious.

If you follow Eichelsbacher Straße a bit further, you’ll find an old cemetery with a gatehouse that was built in the 1400s.

In Kleinwallstadt itself, you’ll find parts of the city’s original defense wall (from the 15th century) along Fährstraße; and on Hauptstraße there are even more half-timbered houses. Keep a look out for the Gasthaus zum Hasen, one of those framework gems that was built in the 16th century.

Also in Kleinwallstadt is the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul, a Catholic church with some 400 years of art and architecture. If you find yourself on Obere Straße, that round tower you’re looking at is a 15th century battlement (not to be confused with the 16th century Doppeltor). Don’t forget to take pictures of Kleinwallstadt’s Rathaus (Town Hall), an architectural beauty that was built in 1773.

As for the village of Hausen (a hamlet of just 8 square kilometers), look for the Muttersgotteskapelle (built 1754), the Old Church of St. Michael (built 1851), and a tiny 20th century chapel.

As you can see, it isn’t right to judge a book by its cover. Or, in this case, to judge a town by what it doesn’t have — because then you’ll never know what it does have.

Oberding — Home Of Munich’s Airport

December 3rd, 2014

If you’ve ever flown to the Munich Airport, chances are you’ve seen Oberding long before you’ve ever stepped foot into the city itself. Why? That’s a simple question to answer, it’s because one half of the airport is located within this Upper Bavarian town.

Before you go rushing right out of the airport, maybe you should check out this very old town first. What’s really remarkable, is Oberding is home to a nature reserve area despite being home to a very modern airport.

Long before the invention of the airplane, and its moniker of being within the Metropolitan Region of Munich, people have lived here — the Bronze Age burial mound in the village of Notzing attests to that. Hmm, that’s some 4,000 years ago.

Not quite that old is Notzing Castle. The beautiful white building you see today belies its 14th century beginnings (with a moat no less); and the Schloss even has its own mill.

Also from the 14th century (that’s the 1300s, by the way) is the Church of St. Georg. This, too, doesn’t look this old, as the church saw renovations back around 1700, and again in 1861.

Technically the Church of St. Nicholas is older, built around the 13th century. You’d never know it, as it got facelifts in both 15th and 18th centuries.

Another architectural gem is the Pfarrkirche St. Martin, this dazzling Baroque beauty (complete with an onion dome) was built in 1757; and right next door is Oberding’s War Memorial Chapel from 1919.

This isn’t the only 20th century addition to this town. St. Korbinian’s Church is known as a Neo-Romanesque one from around 1903, even though the original goes back some 250 years before that.

Visitors to Oberding can’t live on history, architecture, and nature reserves alone. So, to get the real lay of the land, you gotta come by some of Oberding’s pubs and other eating and drinking establishments; or come on over to one of the town’s tennis courts for a friendly game.

Just watch out for those planes landing. ;-)

Waldachtal — Healthy Living In The Health Valley

December 2nd, 2014

Where do you find the wonderful town of Waldachtal? And the ever so more important question of, why would you even want to come?

Well, what if I told you Waldachtal lies right along the Northern Black Forest (incl. Nature Park) — wouldn’t that be reason enough? Of course it would.

Located just east of culinary Baiersbronn and posh Freudenstadt, Waldachtal is a fantastic town to do all those outdoor recreational activities that folks love so much. Not only will you find regular biking trails through the Schwarzwald countryside, but Mountain Biking trails as well.

Hiking trails are all over the place too, like the 24 km Heimatweg that’ll take the better part seven hours to complete. Sixteen circular trails, for a combined 140 kilometers, will certainly keep you occupied the rest of your time here. Plus, you’ve got Nordic Walking trails on top of it all, too.

As if that’s not enough walking, tack on the 900 meters of the Biblischer Rundwanderweg, with some 90 stations that tell stories from the Bible — and even information on plants mentioned within.

Winter doesn’t give Waldachtal any time to slow down, either. Snow lovers descend on the place to do all kinds of skiing, and even snowshoeing. But, if you want a guided walk or bicycle ride — they’re only done between June and September. By the way, that’s the perfect time of year to play some miniature golf or visiting the nearby camel farm.

That’s right, camels.

Any time of year is great to see Rüdenberg Castle, even if all that’s left are part of its dungeon walls covered with scorch marks.

Then go to the hamlet of Vesperweiler to visit the 15th century Mönchhof-Sägemühle or Sawmill, which, by the way, is in better shape than the castle. Another cultural highlight is the Heimatmuseum, or Heritage Museum, in Lützenhardt.

Even older than the old sawmill is the Sanctuary Heiligenbronn — built in the 14th century. Consider this chapel like me or a fine wine — it only gets better with age.

Its Lützenhardt district, by the way, is a staatlich anerkannter Luftkurort, or an officially recognized climatic health resort. I think that’s why Waldbachtal also calls itself Gesundheitstal, or Health Valley. Either way, make sure to take deep breaths while you are here.

I told you that just being in the Black Forest would be enough to want to come to Waldachtal — but aren’t you glad that’s not all it has going for it?

Sanitz — A Family-Friendly Festive Town

December 2nd, 2014

Unless you live under a rock, chances are you’ve heard the expression, “it takes a village,” right? Well, it does take a village to raise a child — and you got to hand it the town of Sanitz, they take it seriously.

Look, any town that gets together to teach its children how to ride a bike is Aces in my book. That’s so cool, don’t ya think? Maybe they do it because riding is a great way to get around?

You know what, who cares why, it’s a grand thing to do.

If you already know how to ride, take a spin around Sanitz’s five lakes — it’s a good deal of fun, as is a BBQ and swimming in the Groß Lüsewitzer See.

And as for mentioning grand things to do, Sanitz is quite an active town. There are Chamber music concerts to attend, Carnival Balls to dress up for, and guided bog hikes to tackle.

That’s all in addition to partying your heart out at least six times a year.

Let’s see… you’ve got the Summer Festival in June, the August Village Festival, the Summer Nights Ball, followed by the Lake & Park Festival (also in August), ending with the Oktoberfest (that’s really in September), and ending the year with the Advent Market.

In between festivals and stuff, you’re best to enjoy the Nature Reserve — where you’ll even find some megalithic tombs. Something that old might pale the massy 13th century Dorfkirche (village church), but its blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture and Baroque pulpit makes it well worth seeing.

What makes a visit to Sanitz even better is how easy it is to get to. It isn’t but 15 km southeast of Rostock, connected by bus and train. Even better that you can hop a ferry from Scandinavia to get here — so no excuses for not visiting.

Really, who wouldn’t want to visit a town that’s exceptionally family-friendly, pretty to look at, and lots of fun to boot?

Bodenwerder — In The Spirit Of Baron Münchhausen

December 1st, 2014

As a teenager I remember seeing this odd movie, The Adventures of Baron Munchausen, starring a very young Uma Thurman and the forever funny Eric Idle, and John Neville as the title character himself, in quite the fanciful tale of a baron’s wild adventures.

What some didn’t know at the time, there really was a Baron Münchhausen, born and interred here in the town of Bodenwerder.

The real “Lying Baron,” as he was called, was also known for his outlandish tales — and Bodenwerder celebrates his fame. His real name was Hieronymus Carl Friedrich von Münchhausen, and you’ll learn more about him at the local Munchhausen Museum — about his downright crazy stories that have spawned no less than seven movies — and books he published as far back as the 1780s.

Explains why Bodenwerder’s on the German Fairy Tale Road, I guess.

Bodenwerder must like stories, because every May they award the Münchhausener Preise, prices gladly given to those who have made a name for themselves in “the spirit of the Baron.”

Baron von Münchhausen isn’t the only storyteller, either. Between May and September, on the third Sunday of the month, your little one can be entertained at the Aschenputtelspiel, where they’ll have stories read to them by characters like Cinderella.

Münchhauser Land does offer more than just an award and museum. The Monastery Kemnade was here centuries before the Baron was ever born, in 960AD to be more exactm and its Romanesque Church was built in 1046. Don’t mix it up with the Orthodoxes Dreifaltigkeits Kloster (German Orthodox Monastery), that’s a 20th century addition, and one of a kind.

It seems Bodenwerder has old places and new places, literary awards, and tall tales to tell — but what it also has are great festivals throughout the year. The Cherry Blossom Festival in April is one of my favorites, where you’ll find cherry wine and pretty cherry orchards around the countryside.

You might like the Lichterfest (2nd Saturday in August) instead, or the Advent concerts at the Kloster Kemnade, and the Münchhausen Musicals (between May & September, twice a month). Or, perhaps, you’d prefer to go horseback riding, fishing, or cycling along one of the many nature trails?

Whatever you do, remember to write down all your travel tales — and even better if its in the spirit of the colorful Lying Baron. ;-)

Großheubach — The Red Wine Town Awaits

December 1st, 2014

There’s an old saying about if you love what you do, you’ll never work a day in your life.

Well, my friends, I love writing and traveling through Germany — so one could hardly call this experience a “job” (shudder at the thought), and it’s all because of places like the town of Großheubach (am Main) here in Lower Franconia.

Even I’m guilty of making (bad) jokes about Bavaria and beer, but in this case it’s all about the red wine here in town.

Now before I go get all thrilled on the stuff, I’ll tell you all about hiking along the Fränkischer Rotwein-Wanderweg, or Franconian Red Wine Hiking Trail. Don’t care to venture out on your own? No problem, join in on one of the guided community hikes; you’ll learn all about how wine making has been part of the local economy for more than seven centuries.

It was even important to the monks who lived at Kloster Engelberg. The monastery itself goes back to the 14th century, belonging to the Franciscans and Capuchin monks — and was once famous for its pilgrimage church. Nah… it was the wine that brought folks from all over. ;-)

And let’s suppose for one minute you’re not all into the wine, pretty vineyards, wine bars, and such — you’re along a charming forested nature reserve area, so you’re gonna find just the right hiking or cycling trail to follow. Go ask the nice people at the Tourist Office to help.

They’re sure to tell you about the hundreds of kilometers of trails that take you all around the tri-state (Bavaria, Hesse, Baden-Württemberg), or along the famous Main River, and along brightly colored fields of sunflowers.

Ohh, I know, how about traveling along the Eselsweg, known as the Donkey Trail. You’ll be traveling along an old medieval trade route that was once important to the salt and glass industry — and this time you won’t have to pay the “tolls” along the 111 km route like they did in the Middle Ages.

The medieval part of Großheubach isn’t just about its old trade route. The Pfarrkirche St. Peter has been around since 1247, a true Romanesque designed church, although it did get a remodel some 600 years later.

Another of Großheubach’s grand buildings is the Rathaus (Town Hall), a pretty red half-timbered building that turned 400 years old in 2011. From the looks of it, you’d never guess it was once used as something as ghastly as a prison.

No time to think about such things, it’s off to try horseback riding, maybe take in a swim, or try paragliding.

Nope, nevermind, it’ll be off to a wine tasting for me. Didn’t I say I’m never working a day in my life — and this is the reason why! ;-)

Artern (Unstrut) — Hometown To Luther’s Buddy

November 28th, 2014

The easy part of Artern (Unstrut) is getting here — connected by train to cities like Erfurt. The hard part? Figuring out what to see or do first.

Artern is a fun little town along the Unstrut & Helme Rivers, full of cultural events and historical sites — so, see, it ain’t so easy to choose, is it?

First, how about some history? Artern was the hometown of John Lonicer (excuse me, this is Germany, Johannes Lonicer), a friend of Martin Luther.

Not too much from Johannes’ day still remains in Artern, but the 13th century St. Vitus Church was. Today this Romanesque/Gothic church is part local museum/part cultural event venue.

Definitely the St. Mary Church was here during his time, this architectural beauty is even older than Vitus, built back in the 1100s. You can’t miss it, it’s got this super-imposing grey-stone tower.

FYI, not to feel left out, over in the village of Schönfeld is a very charming Dorfkirche (Village Church).

Artern is also where Borlach Johann Fried set up a whole salt mining operation — and the Borachwanderweg (a nice trail that highlights 13 sites through town) is named in his honor. What was here during his time? Let me think… the 17th century half-timbered Courthouse was here.

After Lonicer and Fried’s time, Artern saw the building of the 190-meter Rapunzel’s Tower; and after that — the early 20th century neo-Baroque Town Hall (known for its stained glass ballroom).

Some of the other things this town is known for are its Zwiebelmarkt (Onion Market) in October, its St. Nicholas Market in December, the Fun Fair in September, the Fountain Festival in August, and its Carnival celebrations.

Don’t look at me like that because I mentioned them out of order — it happens like that sometimes. I got sidetracked by the whole Feng Shui nature & herb garden that’s open from May to October. The warmer weather is also perfect for enjoying the salt water pool, complete with water slide and lazy river. The pool is cultivated by the Solequelle (Brine Fountain) that you can find in the Parkfriedhof (Cemetery).

So, you see, it isn’t so easy to pick which thing to choose first when you get here — be it as the start or end point of the Bier- und Burgenstraße (Beer and Castle Route) scenic route. But what I do know, is it’s easy to see why you’d want to be here in the first place.

Dierdorf — Prince Wied-Runkel Would Still Love It

November 28th, 2014

Hmm, I’m finding it hard starting about the town of Dierdorf. Maybe I’m stuck on the fact that my American Friends haven’t grasped the concept of a cemetery as a park, kinda thing.

No, that’s not all there is — just some cemetery to see. There’s more to it than that. Let me try to explain this…

Found within Dierdorf’s Castle Park is the Mausoleum of Prince Wied-Runkel. It’s a magnificent piece of 19th century architecture, and a fitting final resting place to a family that ruled over the area for generations. It’s called Mausoleum and you can’t miss this white gravesite building from 1816.

The castle, by the way, had its own moat, originally built in 1324. Which just so happens to have been around the time as the Uhrturm (Clock Tower) and the Eulenturm (Owls Tower) were built. Dierdorf’s Stadtmauer, or city walls, were also built in the 14th century — and pieces of it are still found around town.

Not all of the town’s history is peachy — it was a place that saw 91 people killed during its Witch Trials back around the mid-17th century. Thankfully today, the town is more known for its peaceful shopping along little lanes, offering everything from jewelry to baked goods.

If parts of Dierdorf look really modern, it’s because a good portion of it was destroyed by bombing during World War II. Some old buildings have managed to survive, like the very early 20th century Evangelical Church and the Krankenhaus (an old Knights of St. John hospital from 1886). Too bad I can’t say the same for St. Clements, it was destroyed on March 25, 1942.

Since it’s never just about the history, know that you can have some great recreational pursuits here. Swimming, tennis, horseback riding, and even miniature golf await, if you so desire. And if you want to party your little heart out, come to the City Festival in May. Or, shop German style at the Autumn Market in September or Christmas Fair in November/December.

It might’ve been a hard start talking about Dierdorf, but once you get to know it, you’ll be doing nothing but singing its praises.

Buttenwiesen — Via Danubia To Sculptures To Churches

November 27th, 2014

I had no idea Buttenwiesen was along the Via Danubia. Did you? It sounds more exotic than it really is — a mere 2850 km hiking route along the entire Danube River.

Yeah, that’s sarcasm. A mere 2850 km? Who’s got that kind of time?

It’s all right if you don’t, just so long as what little you do, you’re hiking the region right here in Bavarian Swabia.

There’s something wonderful about the Danube; it’s been traveled by everyone from the Romans to Napoleon, right down to modern day travelers on cookie-cutter river cruisers. But you really do need to come inland here. How else are you going to see the modern works of art along the Skulpturenweg, or Sculpture Trail?

You know a town in Bavarian Swabia isn’t going to disappoint if you’re looking after old churches either. Some are “modern” by German standards, like the St. Martin Church in a district known as Pfaffenhofen an der Zusam — it was built in the 1720s. What? That is young considering the St. Trinity Church is a Gothic church from the 1400s, and the St. Stephen Church in the village of Hinterried is even older that that.

Buttenwiesen even has an old Jewish history. The town’s synagogue had been here from the mid-19th century, as well as its Jewish cemetery. If you’re one to appreciate religious art, or art in any form, you need to see the pieta in Lauterbach’s 18th century chapel.

You don’t need to spend every minute in Buttenwiesen looking at old churches, ya know (ain’t nothing wrong with that though). This is Swabia, so find yourself a proper hiking trail, and look around. There’s a good number of bicycle trails, too. A really relaxing way to just enjoy the scenery is at the solar-powered swimming pool. Forget that — it’s got a waterslide. Look out below…

For the most part, Buttenwiesen has everything and anything you could ask for: old churches, a scenic route, and some of the prettiest countryside in the world. Huh… no wonder everyone seems to love the Danube, and Buttenwiesen for that matter.

Eisfeld — Porcelain, Marbles, Scenic Routes

November 27th, 2014

Oohh, another town that is made even better by the life of a local resident. Excuse me, a man who was once a resident.

Eisfeld, an appealing Thuringian town at the Bavarian border, was the birthplace of notable German writer, Otto Ludwig, who was born here back in the early 19th century.

And you can kind of kill two birds with one stone in Eisfeld; getting to visit its stately medieval castle, and seeing its Otto Ludwig Museum housed inside. Lovers of literature will be fascinated by how one of Germany’s most famous writers studied under Felix Mendelssohn, one of Germany’s most famous composers.

In addition to finding more tidbits about Ludwig, you’ll learn about the former East/West German border (there’s also a memorial outside of town), marble production (look after the Steinmärbelmühle from 1867 in the museum), as well fascinating facts about Porcelain Painting. Don’t as me how they do it, all I know is it takes sheer talent.

You might find yourself coming to Eisfeld if you’re following along some of Germany’s scenic routes.

Porcelain put the town on the Thüringer Porzellanstraße, or Thuringian Porcelain Route. The reason Eisfeld is on the Luther Trail is Justus Jonas, a contemporary of Martin Luther, died here in 1555. He’s buried in the town’s Old Cemetery, by the way.

A lesser known scenic route (but a good one nonetheless) is the Werra-Burgen-Steig, whose “theme” is hiking along the Werra River to many of the federal states’ castles. Which is not to be confused with the Werra Radwanderweg, a bike route trekking along rural roads and green meadows.

Who wouldn’t love riding along the Thüringer Schiefergebirge (Thuringian Slate Mountains) and the Thuringian Forest? It’s places like this that earn Eisfeld its rightful spot on the Rennsteig.

As I mentioned before about the former East and West German border, Eisfeld lies along the Grünes Band, or Green Belt, a scenic route all about a once divided Germany.

Today everyone can come to Eisfeld to see its countryside, experience its history, or party like there’s no tomorrow. This is a town that likes to have a good time — and you can too, at its Kirmes (September), Herbstmarkt (Autumn Market, October), Martinimarkt (November), and Christmas Market (December). However, the Kuhschwanzfest (I won’t translate that), held the Tuesday after Pentecost, is probably the most popular.

Stick around for a whole year, and get back to me on that — but, then again, with all these scenic routes you’ll be back time and time again. ;-)

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