Kappelrodeck — The Best Red Wines Around

October 22nd, 2014

OK, I’ll be right to the point. If you’re coming to Kappelrodeck over here in the Ortenau looking for castles, medieval churches, and some half-timbered houses, you will find them here.

However — and that’s a mighty big however — if you’re on the prowl for some of the best red wines in Germany, then Baby, you’ve come to the right place.

Wine is a very big business in Kappelrodeck. Not only is it on the Baden Wine Route, vino is celebrated quite a few times a year. You’ll find a big 2-day Wine Festival every September, followed by yet another 2-day Wine Festival in the village of Waldulm (one of 33 villages and hamlets that is modern day Kappelrodeck).

In between the two festivals is the Winzerkirwi, that is also a multi-day event. And all the festivities don’t just start and end with the vino. Throughout the year Kappelrodeck hosts a number of other festivals and events, like the Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival) and Waldfest (Forest Festival, both in May); the Burgunderfest (Burgundy Festival, June); Summer Festival (July); and the Bockbierfest in August.

Wine and beer? Is there anything else? Yup… Kappelrodeck is known for its distilleries, probably because the region was (and is) known for its fruit growing. How else are you going to make fruit flavored schnapps?

And what about some fun? Yup… Known as Kappler Fasnacht, this is the town’s traditional carnival season with fun speeches, costumes, and parties.

While Kappelrodeck doesn’t have a whole lot of castles and churches to see for traditional sightseeing, it is home to Schloss Rodeck — a privately owned Neo-Renaissance castle that got its beginnings back in the Middle Ages.

And there are two churches worth seeing — one being the pretty town church in Waldulm (along with a few half-timbered houses), the other the 11th century Church of St. Nicholas.

Waldulm, by the way, is a charming village that offers rolling hills a duck pond, and is close to the Kutzenstein — a pile of stones in the countryside.

It’s said that on a clear day you can see straight to Strasbourg, France — but I don’t know anything about that. Too busy enjoying Kappelrodeck, I guess. ;-)

Königsfeld im Schwarzwald — Healthy Climate, Lovable Scenery

October 22nd, 2014

For the most part, I’ve been pretty straightforward about most of Germany’s towns and cities. There’s usually something to do or see, and I find an angle that’ll highlight the very best of one particular place. Sometimes I find a place where I could very well spend the rest of my days, living life to the fullest.

Yup, you guessed it, Königsfeld im Schwarzwald is one of those places.

It isn’t one thing that makes me want to pack my bags and move in. It’s the whole kit-and-kaboodle. It’s the fact that this is a healthy climate as well as Kneipp resort. It’s the fact that the natural scenery of the Black Forest makes for a great backyard. Etcetera, etcetera…

To see the most of the area, rent an e-bike. No, it isn’t a computerized tour — it’s an electric bicycle. How cool is that?

And for the true culture lover, Königsfeld falls on a number of scenic routes. Some are pretty self-explanatory, like the German Clock Route and the Schwäbische Dichterstraße (Swabian Poet Road); and then you’ve got the Ostweg, a long distance hiking route for the truly adventurous.

I’m not that ambitious. Can I have that e-bike in my size, please? ;-)

Whether you’re using that e-bike, or the power of your own feet — there’s a lot to see, starting with the ruins of two castles. The more famous of them is the Burgruine Waldau, built in 1127 and destroyed some 400 years later during the Peasants’ War. Burgruine Burgberg (say that fast five times) is the older of the pair, built 10 years earlier and destroyed almost a decade earlier.

This is but a snippet of Köngisfeld’s history. No wonder Albert Schweitzer came to live here. As a matter of fact, he once confessed that he had the time of his life here.

Don’t know who Herr Schweitzer was? He was a French/German theologian, missionary, and philosopher — as well as a Nobel Prize winner. His former house (to be found at Schramberger Straße 5) is a museum to his life.

Another museum, the Dorfmuseum (Village Museum) in the Buchenberg district, shows previously exercised crafts such as carving, glass blowing, weaving, watchmaking and pottery.

Königsfeld is also famous for being a center for the Moravian Church. It’s more than just some building, the church holds cultural events in town throughout the year.

One church that’s a must-see is St. Nicholas, built some ten centuries ago. Now, that’s tradition — and there’s nothing a German loves more than tradition.

Can you see why Mr. Schweitzer wanted to move to Königsfeld im Schwarzwald? I certainly do, and wouldn’t mind hangin’ my hat here for the next forty or so years.

Ihringen — Pleasing Climate, Good Wine

October 21st, 2014

Do you have thoughts of a cold Germny? Envision a snowy landscape of country lanes and jagged mountain peaks? Is this your ultimate vacation plan?

Umm, not gonna happen if you’re headed to the town of Ihringen, thought to be the warmest place in Germany.

Now I’m not a meteorologist or weather record keeper, but it doesn’t take an advanced degree to notice the warm Mediterranean climate. Might explain why Ihringen produces some of the best German wine out there, hence why it deserves a stop on the Baden Wine Route.

Ok, ok, so that’s a totally subjective statement — but I’ll tell you to come for the annual Weintage (Wine Days, usually in June for Corpus Christi) to sample all the good vino around, then you be the judge. Maybe the grapes like the volcanic soil, perhaps it’s the fragrance of the local orchids that gives the wine a special “bouquet.”

What the heck am I talking about? I have no idea. What I do know is viticulture is all over the area, from talking about it at the town’s Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum), to just having special wine events throughout the year (like wine tastings, etc).

Don’t drink? Ok, no problem — I bet we can find a festival that’s right for you. Go ahead, pick one. There’s Carnival, a March Spring Festival, both the Töpfermarkt (Pottery Market) and the Zwiebelkuchenfest (Onion Pie Market) in September (each in Wasenweiler), the Erntedankfest (Harvest Festival) on the third weekend of October, ending the year with the Christmas Market.

Ha, as if you got time to party. You will want to explore the surrounding area, for sure. How could you not, the famous Black Forest region is just a stone’s throw away — and you’re only one town over from France, if you’re curious.

Anyway, there are numerous hiking and biking trails in the area with names like the Kulinarischer Weinwanderweg (Culinary Wine Trail), Liliental Trail, and Kirschbaumpfad (Cherry Trail) to name but a few. With all the almond trees, orchids, and wildlife to see, you’ll love any lane you venture to walk.

The Kaiserstuhl, a natural area, is over this way — and guided tours around this Upper Rhine Valley region are possible, too.

There’s so much of the natural to enjoy that I almost forgot to tell you about some of its historical stuff. I can only “tell” you about Ihringen’s castle because thanks to the Thirty Years’ War, nothing remains of the medieval stronghold.

Thankfully the medieval frescoes have survived over at the Church of St. Vitus, and the stained glass over at the local Evangelical Church is also worth a trip. For anyone searching any Jewish ancestry, over on Bachenstrasse used to be a synagogue. There’s a memorial on its place now.

You know what’s great about all this? The weather is so warm, you can pretty much enjoy the place year-round. So if you dislike snowy mountain peaks, think of Ihringen instead.

Immendingen Makes The Danube Disappear

October 20th, 2014

My first thought was how lucky Immendingen was to border the towns of Tuttlingen and Geisingen. Then I got to know this town of 22-plus villages a bit better — and thought: How lucky is Tuttlingen and Geislingen to border Immendingen!

Confusing? It shouldn’t be. Immendingen is a jewel of a town if you love German castles. So what if all of them aren’t intact.

Burg Darrendobel is one of the oldest of Immendingen’s castles, originally built in the 8th century. Not too much remains of the original, just some ditches and ramparts.

Burg Immendingen doesn’t have anything left, either. According to the records, this medieval castle was demolished back in 1917. You’ll find Immendingen Castle near Ruine Hewenegg. As if its name doesn’t give it away, this 12th century castle has been in ruins since 1639. After that, its stone were used as a quarry.

There is an intact castle in Immendingen, the Oberes Schloss (Upper Castle) that’s now the town’s Rathaus (Town Hall); and the Unteres Schloss (Lower Castle) that dates to the 13th century. From the looks of it, you’d never be able to tell it had fire damage back in 1643.

Immendingen isn’t all castles, by the way. It has this totally romantic covered bridge — this one from 1825, because the French destroyed the 18th century original one.

And along the Vogel- und Baumlehrpfad (Bird & Tree Trail) you’ll find lots of information along the 15 or so info boards about the 175 or so species of plants and animals found along the way.

Nature’s an amazing thing, by the way. For (approximately) 155 days, from Summer to Autumn, the Danube River sinks around here, leaving plenty more space to hike around. It’s called Donauversinkung or Donauversickerung (Danube Sinkhole) — a natural phenomenon where Danube’s water literally disappears into the ground, only to revive again in Lake Constance. Yeah, amazing!

Another “nature” site to see would be the exhibit on the Saber-tooth tigers over at the Heritage Museum.

Sports meet up with nature in Immendingen with cross-country ski trails, plenty of hiking paths, and lots of cycling lanes.

After all that, you can be plenty tired out. No wonder there are camping sites along way, especially at the Donauversinkung.

Yeah, Tuttlingen and Geisingen are fantastic in their own right, but Immendingen manages to hold its own with the neighbors.

Ellerau — From The Creek To The Heritage Museum

October 19th, 2014

Some museums in the world are really (really, really) famous, fantastic, and full of masterpieces from all over the world. And then you come across a teeny, tiny museum in small German towns like Ellerau that stay in your head like its more famous cousins.

Not bad for a town that had barely 600 people living in it prior to World War II, huh?

Now, I’m sure you’ve noticed by now that I don’t advocate spending all your time indoors in Germany. Heck no, but here in this tiny town up here in Schleswig-Holstein, you’ll find its museum so informative you won’t even notice that hours have gone by.

Its exhibits are snippets of time, an old schoolroom of desks and chalkboards; it is Ellerau’s wildlife (stuffed) that you’ll find in the region; and it’s educational on some of the industry that kept this 550+ year old town going.

Come see what a butcher, a carpenter, a locksmith, and shoemaker would’ve used way-back-when. There are even exhibits on what real living was like back in the day — you’ll see a traditional Living Room, a Kitchen, and even a Bedroom.

Darn, I think I lost a couple of hours just thinking about everything in Ellerau’s Heritage Museum. ;-)

You’ll find another couple of hours have gone by walking around the town itself. It’s a place with a variety of restaurants, offering everything from a steakhouse to Italian cuisine. It’s got a village church, a communal library, and even a theater.

Ellerau’s got a picturesque creek (the Krumbek) that’s a nice place to just take a leisurely stroll, if you’re so inclined.

Not to take anything away from nearby Hamburg (mere 23km south), or Quickborn and Norderstedt — but Ellerau’s a nice place to just hang around and learn something.

Gransee — From The Barefoot Path To 3 Castles

October 19th, 2014

When reading a bio about my next upcoming town what I look for is the word Sehenswürdigkeiten. That’s a mighty long word for “attractions” or “sights” — because I want to know what I’m going to get all excited about.

And, Holy mackeral, the list of attractions for the town of Gransee was longer than a career criminal’s rap sheet. ;-)

Under the banner of Schlösser und Burgen (that would be castles), there were three. Schloss Meseberg now belongs to the government, but they did a good job of keeping up its Baroque Gardens — even if the castle’s only open 1 day a year.

You can only see the outside of Schloss Rauschendorf, the oldest of the three, built in 1540. But you’re more than welcome to visit the Baroque Castle Dannewalde, an old manor house from the 17th century.

The list of churches to see here is like three times the size than its castles, but with so many villages that belong to the place it’s no wonder. I really like the Dorfkirche (village church) in Altlüdersdorf, a half-timbered gem from 1702.

However, the Advent Church Neuglobsow is exceptionally pretty, as is the Dorfkirche Dollgow that’s been called somber Baroque. Somber? This light colored church isn’t somber — it’s cheery.

A few of Gransee’s churches are from the Middle Ages, and the Dorfkirche Rönnebeck with its wide, tall, stone tower is my favorite. The Franciscan Church got its start in 1280 when there was a monastery here. It isn’t a working church any longer, but you can still see it with a guided tour.

The St. Marienkirche on the Kirchplatz is a medieval/Baroque church that has somehow managed to survive wars and countless fires. Besides services, this church offers summer musical events from April to October.

For museums, Gransee’s got three of those. The Glasmacherhaus (Glassmaker’s House) you can hear about the history of the industry that was once booming around tow in the 18th & 19th centuries.

The Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) gets into some more of the town’s history; and the Naturpark Stechlin in Menz is open daily with kids events and other exhibitions about the local flora & fauna.

If you count the Gut Zernikow, a farmstead from 1740, then you’ve got four “museums.” But, really, this is a venue for all sorts of lectures and exhibitions throughout the year.

As if this isn’t enough, you can get a boat rental for a day out on the water, skydive, hit the Run Park, or, in the Dannenwalde district, walk along the Barfußpfad (Barefoot Path).

And when that’s all done, you can join in the Erntedankfest in Dollgow or the Schützenfest in Gransee proper, both in September, or shop at two Christmas Markets in December.

It takes a month of Sundays to see all of Gransee — and it I think it took me just as long to read all about Gransees Sehenswürdigkeiten. ;-)

Grebenstein — Half-Timbered Fairy Tales

October 19th, 2014

A friend of mine in the travel business sells quite a number of River Cruises through Germany. These “long boats” meander their way along the country’s rivers visiting posh places and eternally medieval cities.

However, as great as they are — sometime you got to come to little towns, places like the Hessian town of Grebenstein, to experience a true Old World Germany.

It’s possible the old castles around Grebenstein have something to do with it. However, I’m not sure we can say that Burg Haldessen is technically a castle. It might have been at one time, but since the 19th century nothing remains of what was once a medieval hill fort castle.

You can’t say the same for Burg Grebenstein, a good bit of it is still around thanks to the handy work of some local folks. This 13th century castle was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War, and used as a quarry for decades. Not any more, mind you, and close by is an old Jewish Cemetery.

The Thirty Years’ War wasn’t the only one waged nearby. Over by the Wilhelmsthal Palace a battle took place in 1762, known as Schlacht bei Wilhelmsthal. At least this gorgeous example of a Rococo palace managed to survive the fighting during the Seven Years War between France and Prussia.

Do you know what else gives Grebenstein, called Grebensteen in Low German, an Old World flavor? It’s all the half-timbered houses found within its Altstadt (Old Town). It also has a sort of fairytale charm. Maybe that’s why it lies on the German Fairy Tale Road as well as within the Märchenland Reichardswald.

Also within the Altstadt are both the Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) and a pretty historic tower that was once part of its defense wall.

I know you didn’t come all this way to spend anymore time indoors than necessary, so here’s your chance to get outside in either the Habichtswald Nature Park or the Reinhardswald. No need to choose, find some hiking trails in both — and make a couple of days of it.

With all due respect to my cruise-selling travel buddy — they’re certainly a nice way to see Germany, but then you might miss out on places just like this.

Niedereschach — Scenic Routes, Fresh Baked Bread

October 16th, 2014

Niedereschach. Niedereschach. That’s not a word that flows so easy off the fingers on the keyboard. It is, however, easy enough to love — not only because of its location on the eastern side of the Black Forest and along some great scenic routes.

BTW, I learned about a new scenic route while learning about this town.

Anyway, Niedereschach lies along the 99km Schwarzwald-Querweg Rottweil-Lahr (it got a blue/red rhombus on yellow background signpost, so you know you’re going the right way). This route follows some high altitude (eventually getting up to 835 meters above sea level), so you won’t complain about the view, that’s for sure.

This town will take you from the tips of the mountain peaks to below the Earth’s surface. This was a medieval mining town, so off to the Bergwerke to learn all about mining copper and silver back in the Middle Ages.

Before you go off to eat, you still got stuff to see and do. Niedereschach also lies on the Neckar-Alb-Aare Roman Route, so off to the Römervilla Fischbach. Don’t just look at the foundation of a Roman villa — and think big deal. This place had its own latrine and heating system — modern conveniences of today some 2,000 years ago.

And if this isn’t an interesting enough scenic route for you, Niedereschach also lies along the German Clock Route (or in German: Deutsche Uhrenstraße). The Town Hall’s church clock is worth a snap.

Have you really come this far into Germany and not know about our penchant for promptness? Maybe this is why we love the clock so much. ;-)

Clocks aren’t the only thing we love — we also love our markets. For the last century, Niedereschach holds its weekly Taubenmarkt (Sunday morning). I’m sure the kids will love the chickens and rabbits.

The little ones will love the miniature golfing, horseback riding, and the petting zoo while they’re here, too. I like the whole public baking thing. Known as Brot backen in a Backhaus, Mr. Emminger (in Niedereschach proper) and Ms. Müller (in Fischbach) will show and guide you.

The only thing I need right now is some rest — no, maybe some more of that fresh baked bread. Ms. Müller — I need help… ;-)

Neustadt an der Waldnaab — Colorful Excellence

October 16th, 2014

For a town that’s less than ten square kilometers, there sure is enough to keep you quite busy in Neustadt an der Waldnaab. Totally excellent, if you ask me. Then again, should I expect anything less here in the Upper Palatinate?

One of the best ways to see Neustadt is along the Bocklradweg, a bike route that meanders around an old rail line — the longest of its kind in all of Bavaria. Of course the old tried & true method of hiking always works, too.

If you go too far you’ll find yourself clear out of northest Bavaria and Germany altogether, going right into the Czech Republic — if that’s any indication of where you’re at.

Just being outdoors is wonderful around Neustadt, especially if you’re into the whole camping thing out here in the Upper Palatinate Forest. Not me, if it doesn’t have room service — i ain’t going.

Just kidding… I will. And I will also jump at the chance to join you at the campground’s BBQ areas and beer garden.

Anyone into shopping will find some magnificent “glass.” Actually it’s lead crystal — and you can never have too much of that sparkly stuff around the house.

Speaking of houses, I think everyone should own a castle. Sadly not everyone can, but at least you can visit some. There are two here, known as the Altes Schloss (Old Castle, built 1532) and the Neues Schloss (New Castle, built 1698). From here you can see the Baroque Gardens, the town’s original Stadtmauer (defense wall), and some cute colorful houses.

If the place has some castles, you know it’s gonna have some old churches to go along with it. If you like the ornate, then it’s off to the Rococo church of St. George. But, that’s not to take anything away from the Church of St. Felix, or the Church of St. Anne that was built in 1380 — even though she only admits to being just shy of 500 years old.

I like how the City Museum separates its exhibits into church objects, the glassmaking (hence why this town is on the Glass Route), and the town’s local history. It does a great job putting into perspective everything you’ve just seen around town.

And just when you think you can’t do or see anymore — surprise! Thursday evenings in the summer are known as Serenadeabende, or Serenade Evenings. This is in addition to the annual Kirchweih (a.k.a Dotschkirwa) in November (delicious food included!), the Bürgerfest on the third Saturday in July, and the Georgsmarkt in April.

This seems like such a big page for such a small town — but what it manages to fit in is astounding. Excellent doesn’t quite cover it, does it?

Hutthurm — Thoughtful Chalets, Quaint Guesthouses

October 15th, 2014

For anyone who doesn’t know what a market town is, let me explain. Back during the Middle Ages it was some sort of municipal law in the Bavarian and Austrian region. Today it stands as a term defining a place that’s sort of in the middle of a “town” and a “city.”

Either way, welcome to Hutthurm, a town very close to both Austria and the Czech Republic, as well as the city of Passau.

Hutthurm had its start sometime at the turn of the 12th century, but its too bad that not all that much remains from its medieval beginnings.

In all fairness, a fire had something to do with that — but the town did rebuild its Church of St. Martin, in the popular Baroque style of the day. You can’t miss it, its tower rises some 51 meters skyward.

You’ll find the church right on the Marktplatz, right by the 19th century Mariasäule, or column of Mary. Another of Hutthurm’s must-see churches is the Rococo St. Magdalena from the year 1739.

Hutthurm did have a castle at one time (can you seriously be a medieval town without one) — you’ll find the remains of one right on Leoprechtinger Str. 5.

If you absolutely need to see a castle, there is Schloss Wolfstein in nearby Freyung.

You could spend half your time indoors looking around the interiors of Hutthurm, but then again, this is Bavaria. Just tramping willy-nilly around its 44 villages (yup) could be a good time. You’ll find 18th century farmhouses, religious markers (like Baroque crucifixes), and little bridges crossing the Ilz River.

Picturesque probably isn’t the right word. This is a place of chalets and quaint guesthouses, and where you can wander around the Bavarian Forest National Park and be perfectly content.

Of course, if you want something more active then let me suggest renting a bicycle for some time on one of the many bike trails, or play some tennis and golf, go swimming, and if weather conditions are right — do some skiing.

You know, Hutthurm might be in the middle of a town and city, but I think it belongs at the top of great places list. ;-)

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