Neuhaus am Rennweg — A Party Animal Turned Romantic

June 24th, 2014

Do you know what doesn’t get mentioned too often? I’ll tell you: Germany’s Fifth Season.

Now before you go asking what that is, I’ll tell you. It’s Carnival Season — you know, that Mardi Gras kind of thing that happens right before the start of Lent — except Germany starts celebrating it in November, in towns like Neuhaus am Rennweg in Thuringia.

A good Carnival party isn’t the only thing to do here, ya know. November’s also the month for the Lichterfest, a Lights Festival held right at the Marktplatz towards the end of the month.

It’s not the only two parties they throw around town. Come October, they hold their own Oktoberfest; which is also the same month for Neuhaus’ Wine Festival and its Hoffest. And December is the right time to hold the Christmas Market, also at the Marktplatz.

As much as I could sit here all day writing about the town’s festivals and cultural events, it would do a serious injustice to the other things to see around here — the first being its countryside.

Neuhaus am Rennweg is lucky enough to lie along the Rennsteig, a long-distance hiking route that’s known for its outstanding views. Don’t want to hike that far? Fair enough, do the 11km Nature Trail, or smaller Nordic Walking trails instead. You can follow that up with a spa service or two.

Have I earned that deep-tissue massage yet?

Hey, it beats the whole Ice Diving thing they do in the winter. Speaking of cold weather, you gotta try the 250-meter tubing track. Nothing like careening downhill with your hair on fire, is it? ;-)

In my most humble opinion, winter’s got to be the best time. Where else can you downhill ski, cross-country ski, or take a horse-drawn sleigh ride? And it’s all right if you don’t have equipment, or know how to ski, for that matter — they got equipment rental places, and even a ski school.

Besides, the gorgeous Town Church is probably its most stunning when covered by a freshly fallen snow. Looks like something right out of a Thomas Kincade painting.

Ugh, I’m not sure where all this romanticism came from — didn’t I start off talking about Neuhaus am Rennweg’s party-animal side? ;-)

Römhild — The Celts Of Yesteryear Would Approve

June 24th, 2014

It’s believed the town of Römhild is one of the oldest towns in all of Thuringia. That’s easy enough to believe, since the place was once crawling with Celts years before the modern era.

Not too much of the Celts’ days remain, but the Kelten-Erlebnisweg does find itself making its way through town. This scenic route of sorts is some 254km (158mi) dedicated to their culture. So, if you want to learn more about the Celts’ history through, then it should be off to the Museum of Pre & Early History for you.

For me it’s always about the castles, so it’s off to Schloss Glücksburg — a 16th century edifice whose origins actually date back to the Middle Ages. These days Schloss Glücksburg is part Local History Museum, part Doll Museum, and chocked full of antiques.

While not a museum, Schloss Bedheim is still a castle worthy of a snapshot. Actually, it looks really creepy in the fading winter light — but that just makes me love it even more. Too bad the Lustschloss is gone, once the summer residence for some aristocrat — but at least the cemetery chapel (17th/18th centuries) remains. And I need to give an honorable mention to the Burgruine Hartsburg, too.

Nothing’s really left of the Steinsburg, that used to be a Celtic oppidum — circa the 2nd/1st century B.C. Hey, if this was before history was written, how does anyone know?

Nevermind, too much other stuff to see and do. No, I gonna ponder about how much things have changed here in Römhild over the last 400 years — and thank my lucky stars there aren’t any more witch hunts.

I guess everyone’s too busy partying at Römhild’s festivals — it’s super fun times at the Kalter Markt, held the last Thursday of every January. This market has its roots from many years ago, as the town was once a stop on an ancient trade route.

Too cold for you? No problem, the Pottery Market’s a popular event held every August.

And if you have any time left then come over to the village of Milz, close to ancient tumuli fields (ancient burial grounds), and there’s some great half-timbered houses here, along with the medieval St. Mary Magdalene Church.

My guess would be the Celts from ages ago would approve of their Römhild these days — and it’s got my stamp of approval, too. ;-)

Bad Liebenstein — Castles, Celebs, Thuringian Forest

June 18th, 2014

It’s late on a Sunday night, my head is reeling from what was a long day — all the while wondering what I want to tell you about the Thuringian town of Bad Liebenstein…

Do I dive right in to tell you such noted figures in history like Albert Schweitzer, Franz Liszt, and Martin Luther were once here? Do I make a mad dash to the keyboard to write the night away about all its wonderful castles and manors? What do I say about all the activities that take you through the Thuringian Forest?

Some days are so much easier than others. But, I got the best gig in the whole world; as if I would truly complain about spending my days staring at an 18th century castle. ;-)

As its name implies, Bad Liebenstein is a spa town, located in the northwestern region of the Thuringian Forest. Some say it’s one of the oldest spa towns in the region, while others say it is the actual oldest. Tomatoes, tah-mah-toes, it doesn’t matter. What does matter is guys like Liszt and Schweitzer were here to enjoy the health clinics, while Luther stopped here on his way back from the Diet of Worms in 1521. A memorial, an obelisk some 10 meters high, stands for Luther in the village of Steinbach.

Ok, so what’s the big deal? Luther was here, so what? The point is, Luther stopped here before he could be arrested — and was secreted away to nearby Wartburg Castle, where he translated the Bible into German during his stay. I’d say this was a very big deal for its time.

I’m not saying go run off to Wartburg Castle, not yet anyway. First you need to see the castles here. Burg Liebenstein might not be the formidable castle of its heyday, but castle ruins are still evocative of clanking armor and Fair Maidens of the Middle Ages.

Schloss Glücksbrunn isn’t a medieval castle, by no means. It’s a graceful 18th century castle, with winding paths shaded by trees — and the prettiest of gardens. Schloss Altenstein is also a pretty castle, a tad more ornate than Glücksbrunn. Not too shabby for what’s called just a “country house,” although these days the castle acts as a museum.

Not too far from Schloss Altenstein is the Alstein Cave, or Alsteiner Höhle. Guided tours are available to take you there, but I’d have to say the acoustics make for great concerts. The kids might prefer a trip to the Tierpark instead — and who wouldn’t want the chance to see all kinds of animals, like llamas and kangaroos? Ahh, there’s plenty of time to do both.

Just as there’s plenty of time to find a hiking trail that strikes your fancy. I was too tired to walk, so it was a leisurely horse ride for me. I thought after a rest a canoe ride along the Werra River sounded good. Yeah, sounded good, I didn’t actually do it. ;-)

Don’t judge me, I had plans for a concert at the Kurtheater to get ready for. The theater isn’t limited to just musical concerts, the place is a venue for cabaret and literary events, too.

My only lament was I missed out on the Burgfest, a 2-day event in May at the Burgruine Bad Liebenstein, and I’ll be long gone for the Altensteiner Fröbelfest in June.

Drats, I missed out on two seriously fun festivals — but at least I got to enjoy the rest of it. I wonder what Liszt, Schweitzer, and Luther would think of it all now?

Altenkirchen (Westerwald) — Festivals, Tradition, Forest

May 12th, 2014

The question of where Altenkirchen (Westerwald) is is secondary to the real question of, what to tell you about this great place.

To answer the first part of these two questions, you’ll find Altenkirchen in northern Rhineland-Palatinate, more specifically in the Westerwald, only a few towns over from North Rhine-Westphalia.

The second part is a bit more complex and complicated. So, I guess I’ll start off with a bit of the town’s darker history…

Back in the 17th century Altenkirchen had a bustling Jewish community, which is evident from its old Jewish cemetery. At the end of the Thirty Years’ War, its Jewish population was told to either convert to Christianity or move somewhere else.

Again in the 19th century Altenkirchen had a thriving Jewish community — again in the 20th century its Jewish residents were forced to move, its synagogue destroyed — and well, most of you know the rest.

Today a plaque stands on Frankfurter Straße for the synagogue that used to stand here.

As for seeing the rest of it, it won’t take long as the town (including all four of its neighborhoods) is only 11 square kilometers — yet really packs it all in.

Its Marktplatz, or Town Square, is typical Germany — with numerous restored half-timbered houses and cobbles.

At one point in time, everyone headed to the Marktplatz to get what they needed, as some still do. The old Pharmacy building on Wilhelmstraße goes back to the year 1699 — and who didn’t need a good chemist now and again in those days, huh?

What some folks need today is some fresh air, and no place is better in Altenkirchen than the conservation area of Wiesenthal. Hiking, biking, plain old walking — it doesn’t matter cause it’s just nice to be outside.

Another outdoor goody is the Bismarckturm (Bismarck Tower), named for the statesman. Funny, Herr Otto’s name pops up again as Altenkirchen was the hometown of Ernst Lindemann, commander of the Battleship Bismarck during World War II.

I told you Altenkirchen might be small, but it somehow manages to pack a lot of history into a tiny space. And it likes to party… Come in February for the annual Carnival, or in May for the Maifete, the traditional Schützenfest (Shooting Match) in July, or to the Oktoberfest, and the Dommesmarkt in December — to name just a few.

This is all in addition to the cultural goings-on at the Felsenkeller, like cabaret shows.

Jeez, I’m tired from all this… Could you imagine how busy you’d be here if it were just a tad bigger? ;-)

Steinenbronn — 10 Squares In The Swabian Alb

May 7th, 2014

Sometimes first impressions are incorrect. My first impression of the town of Steinenbronn was nothing goes on here. Not now, not ever. This time it was me who was the foolish mortal.

Then I found out the entire town wasn’t even 10 square kilometers, and a whole bunch of stuff goes on in these parts. So, pound for pound — being so tiny, Steinenbronn really packs a punch.

But, first let me tell you, if you’re looking for the whole German castles or old churches kind of thing — you’re not in the right place.

That’s not to say no history whatsoever took place here. Steinenbronn got its start back in the Stone Age; and a Celtic stele now sits in the Württemberg State Museum.

All I’m saying, however, is if you’re looking for a great German festival, then you most certainly are in the right place.

The year kicks off brilliantly during the annual Children’s Carnival at, well, Carnival time (think February). Very fitting since Steinenbronn is totally family friendly with lots of little neighborhoods, playgrounds, and kindergartens.

I digress, I was going off about festivals. Come March when Steinenbronn’s got its Verschenkmarkt, followed by Maypole Dancing on May 1st. June is just the right month for the Village Festival (called a Dorffest) and the Summer Solstice Celebration, with the Music Festival right behind it in July.

August isn’t without its festival, this one being the Fisherman’s Festival. And the year ends with the town’s Christmas Market in early December. In between it all you’ll find special Theater Nights and other cultural activities going on.

Did I miss something? Oh, only to tell you about the little pizzerias and cafes — little eateries serving up good Swabian dishes.

Hmm, didn’t mention that Steinenbronn was in the Swabian Alb? Whoops, that’s kind of important, right? It is, and have I mentioned that Steinenbronn sits within the Schönbuch Nature Park?

Sorry — I told you Steinenbronn packs a punch — it totally knocked me out that I almost forgot where I was. ;-)

Sottrum — The Kräuterregion Of Lower Saxony

May 7th, 2014

Today, I’m up here in the north, in the little town of Sottrum.

Excuse me, Sottrum isn’t all that little. It encompasses quite some real estate, especially if you add in all the other towns and villages that are part of the Collective Municipality, Amt Sottrum.

The “village” itself is the largest of them all, with over 6,000 souls living here. And what it lacks in traditional sightseeing, it more than makes up for it with its many, many festivals and cultural events.

Sightseeing is limited to its Watermill Stuckenborstel (this is really picture worthy — so snap away on the digital or smartphone cameras), and its Local History Museum (called Heimatmuseum, in a half-timbered building, no less). Wow, tour over — let’s go home.

No, just kidding. I haven’t told you all about hiking along the Breitenfelder Moor, or the Kräuterregion. And I don’t mean sauerkraut, BTW. ;-)

Anyway, this is all about the herbs, the orchards, and other sweet smelling plants growing in a number of Sottrum’s villages — passing farms, fields of honeysuckle, and medicinal plants. A bike path is a great way to see (and smell) most of it, passing many tiny farms along the way.

There is one castle along the way, Burg Clüversborstel, a 15th century private castle in the village of Reeßum. Reeßum’s hamlet of Taaken has archaeological evidence dating back to around 4,000 B.C. — and was once teeming with Romans and Saxons.

Sottrum’s festivals and other events today would make any Roman or Saxon proud; and I think you’ll like them too. Come join the fun at one of the two Erntefests in September, a Heimatfest, Christmas Markets, Community Baking events, Parades, or amateur theater performances.

It’s so nice to be back up here in the north — otherwise I’d have totally missed out on the adventures of Sottrum. :-)

Putzbrunn — Munich’s Quiet Neighbor

May 1st, 2014

There’s nothing like a little honesty between friends; so I might as well be forthcoming about the Upper Bavarian town of Putzbrunn. Truth be told, I had to do some serious research on the place.

You see, if you search the Internet the info on the place can be a bit — what’s the word — spotty. Yeah, spotty. But, then again, isn’t that why I’m here — and why I had to scope it out myself.

Like someone had to drag me kicking, screaming, and complaining to come to Upper Bavaria in the shadow of the Bavarian Alps. ;-)

Putzbrunn is kind of small, just 11 square kilometers, so it doesn’t take too long to get yourself through it. And it doesn’t have too many guesthouses for overnight guests — just enough for some more affordable accommodation during neighboring Munich’s Oktoberfest.

As great as the world’s largest beer drinking party is, the festival to be here for is the Maibaumfest, or May Day Celebration — whatever you want to call it.

Strong men in lederhosen march in to lift the gigantic pole, while dirndl wearing ladies cheer them on. No traditional Bavarian costume required to come, by the way, it just makes for some good natured fun.

Just because Putzbrunn is small, doesn’t mean it’s a one-festival place. Come early December you’ve got the multi-day Christkindlmarkt; and on November 11th there is the St. Martin Celebration going on.

October’s a busy month for Putzbrunn with its own Oktoberfest, the Flea Market, the Fall Bazaar, and the Fall Folk Dancing shindig taking place.

No festival or market? No biggie, just use the time to find all 40 of the town’s “historical” buildings. There are quite a number of them found along Glonner Straße — some buildings date back to the middle of the 16th century.

Sounds old, right? Please — Putzbrunn’s history goes back to the 8th century.

For the outdoor loving crowd, there’s something for you to do. Nearby is both the Grünwalder Forst and Perlacher Forst, so find yourself any hiking trail — and off you go. Just remember to come back to town when you’re done.

All in all, Putzbrunn is all right — you won’t hear me complaining. ;-)

Colditz — More Than Just An Infamous Castle

April 24th, 2014

The first thought in your head about Colditz is its castle, right? I know, I’m guilty of the same thing, but let me tell you… there’s more to be found within this Muddle Valley town than just its Schloss. Who knew?

As much as I’d love to start all this at the castle, it’s probably best to start at the Local History Museum (called Heimatmuseum); all filled with interesting facts about the town and its former residents.

Interestingly enough, Colditz is home to a museum about dental history too.

However, it isn’t dentistry that caught my attention — it was the life and work of Johann David Köhler, a historian who studied the Romans (and there were plenty of them here in Germany), and whose work innovated the library sciences.

In no way does Colditz’s enthralling facts and “attractions” end with a visit to the Köhler House — oh heck no. Colditz comprises of some 25 different villages, so you will find something else that strikes your fancy (again, besides the castle). The countryside could do that — so why not climb the 20-meter of the Heimatturm and see the natural beauty of Saxony?

And if you’re into all the fun festivals to be found in a German town — then, Baby, you don’t have it any better than right here. Wintertime, Summertime, it doesn’t matter the season, Colditz is a party town.

Whatever kind of party you can think of can be found right here. The Osterfeuer, or Easter bonfire, is a sure way to welcome in Spring (and Easter), followed up by the Barkenfestregatta at the end of the month. Oh, this is a joyful festival of live music, another bonfire, and fireworks.

Of course, the Autumn season isn’t to be outdone in the festivities department — there’s an Erntedankfest in September, with both a Kirmes and Autumn Festival in October.

Personally, I think the Advent/Christmas season is the best — maybe because of the traditional Christmas festivities at the famous (and infamous) Colditz Castle.

Colditz Castle wasn’t always so inviting, by the way. Back in the 1930s, Schloss Colditz was a prison camp — housing those deemed totally “undesirable” by the Nazis. By 1939 the amazingly gorgeous Renaissance castle was officially known as Oflag IV-C, a POW camp for officers. Colditz Castle has even been immortalized by actual daring prison escapes, and was even a BBC television program in the early 1970s.

These days Schloss Colditz is a youth hostel, and everyone is welcome to enjoy the stunning architecture, like its 12th century chapel and its sandstone reliefs. No wonder so many artists have been inspired to paint it countless times over the centuries; perhaps you will be too.

Not me, I don’t think with that side of my brain. However, my mind is twisted enough to enjoy a creepy night tour of the castle. ;-)

Truthfully, I never gave Colditz too much thought before today — but you sure can bet I won’t make that mistake again.

Bruchhausen-Vilsen — Lower Saxon Mills Await

April 16th, 2014

This is it, I’m staying right here — and no one is going to make me move. I’ve fallen in love with the town of Bruchhausen-Vilsen, a town and Collective Municipality.

What do you mean you’ve heard that line before? Really, I’m quite serious this time — and with all there is to do here in this quaint northern German village, I’m not even sure why I’m still sitting here typing this stuff.

Oh yeah, it’s so you can enjoy the place as well. ;-)

As always the hardest part is to tell you where to start. For me it was all the windmills to be found in town; five of them to be exact.

The oldest one is said to be the Martfeld Mill, from around 1583 even though the current on is a Dutch style from the 1840s. Somehow I think something got mixed up because the Klostermühle Heiligenberg (the Monastery Heiligenberg) has been working hard since 1370 — and again the current one didn’t come around til 1856.

Bruchhausen-Vilsen’s got old churches, too. St. Bartholomew’s church isn’t quite that old, even if its bell was made way back during the strife of the Thirty Years’ War. It is St. Cyriakus that claims the “old” title, built in 1227 in a Romanesque design.

That’s quite enough to keep me entertained for a while — but good thing that’s not all. The Railway Museum is next up in the sightseeing department — and while you’re at it, you can actually take a steam locomotive ride through the countryside.

Don’t say I didn’t warn you to be back in time for the Brokser Heiratsmarkt. Held over five days on the last weekend of August, almost a half-million people flock to Bruchhausen-Vilsen for fireworks, livestock sales, a Bachelor Auction (hey, the festival actually translates to a Marriage Market), and all sorts of other fun stuff.

As big as the festival is, it isn’t a one-horse town. Come for the Oktoberfest Beer Festival, the Asparagus events, and the Christmas Farmers Market. All of these are in addition to the town’s Weekly Market, held every Friday afternoon from 2:30pm – 6:30pm.

Yeah, this is why I want to stay — and I haven’t gotten to try the ice rink, or seen the orchids that bloom every July/August yet.

So, if you find yourself near Bremen — come here, it’s only about 24 kilometers, so you’ll be here in no time. Chances are I’ll still be here, so I’ll see ya then.

Berglen — A Württemberg Delight For The Whole Body

April 15th, 2014

The nine districts of Berglen in Baden-Württemberg are just a few (25) kilometers from the city of Stuttgart, along the edge of the Keuperhügellandschaft Berglen and the Welzheimer Wald.

Means nothing if you take that statement as it is, but it means that if you’re hiking or biking along the valley, you’re in for a true treat to the eyeballs.

With some 250 signposts out for direction (we Germans don’t just wander around), and info boards for the educational stuff, the great outdoors of Berglen is the place to be. Maps are available of the region, if you really need one.

A Local History Museum (called Heimatmuseum) in the village of Oppelsbohm can tell you a lot about how the town came to be. It’s also a good place to see many items of a bygone era — of school desks instead of electronic tablets; record players instead of iTunes; and rural homes instead of city condos.

To see it, you gotta do it on the last Sunday of the month between March and October — and only from 2pm to 5pm. If you’re lucky, and there’s a group of you, make an appointment — they’ll be happy to open the joint up for you at other times.

Don’t leave Oppelsbohm yet — its Evangelical Parish Church is quite pretty, with its grey stone and its half-timbered top. You’re welcome to join services on Sunday mornings at 10am.

That’s still plenty of time to get ready for the Herbstfest, or Autumn Festival. This October extravaganza is full of food, beer, and fun for everyone. Oh, except maybe the kids on the beer thing.

Hey, kids, put that beer down — leave it for the grown-ups. ;-)

Throughout the rest of the year, Berglen’s got its own Christmas Market on the third weekend of Advent; it has a Lindefest and Street Festival as well.

With all this going on, it seems that Berglen’s landscape isn’t just a treat for the eyes — but the whole town itself is a delight for the tummy, brain, and the soul. I don’t think you can ask for much more than that.

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