Walddorfhäslach — Following A Historical Trail

March 30th, 2017

Sometimes I wish it was possible to jump in Marty McFly’s DeLorean, punch in dates from long ago to see for myself what life was once like “back in the day.” One place I’d go to is the town of Walddorfhäslach — although if I put in any date prior to 1972, it wouldn’t be the same place.

Confusing, yes? I’d say so, because the town you see today didn’t quite exist as it does today. It was the merger of two independent villages, plus the addition of a deserted one, that gives us the current Walddorfhäslach. Oh, I’m most certainly not complaining… this 14.44 square kilometer town is a quintessential German village anyone could love, located near much larger towns like Tübingen and Reutlingen.

There’s one downside to Walddorfhäslach, however. It isn’t chocked full of old churches to visit, nor does it have a bazillion half-timbered houses — but it does have a very old castle. Hey, just because the modern town is only a few decades old doesn’t mean it can’t have an eight-centuries old schloss, right? Do yourself a favor, follow the “Historical Trail” in Walddorf to see the historical old buildings the village does have, ok?

As for walking, there’s probably no place better in Walddorfhäslach than the Schönbuch Nature Park. Who knew a quiet slice of green heaven awaited in what’s part of the Metropolitan Region of Stuttgart? Being part of the great outdoors continues since a visit to the Outdoor Museum of Rural Culture is also something to see while you’re here, too.

Even though I’m generally gung-ho on all things historical, a good festival or market can catch my attention rather quickly. But there’s more to Walddorfhäslach than just its Krämermarkt, Carnival celebrations, a Forest Music Festival (in May, and a Kirbe (in September). This is a town that hosts theater performances, concerts in its Protestant Church, horticultural events, musical concerts to welcome Spring and Autumn, Corpus Christi Processions, and even an Autumn Bazaar.

Yikes, it would be a bad thing to leave out mentioning the Christkindlesmarkt in December, would it? Had I forgotten to, that DeLorean would be handy to come back to the few minutes before I wrote this. ;-)

Waldfischbach-Burgalben — Never Lose The Luster

March 29th, 2017

It’s been a few weeks since there’s been time to write about my exploits around Germany, and I probably couldn’t have chosen a better town than Waldfischbach-Burgalben in the Palatinate Forest to get back into the groove of things. My hiatus has nothing to do with the luster wearing off traveling — because this place is pretty special.

Its name is long, just like the list of things to do and see around the place. It most certainly has something for everyone, right down to its old architecture from centuries past (can you say, half-timbered houses), to plenty of recreational sports (lost count on the number of hiking trails), and quite an array of cultural events to keep even the most discerning (that’s a nice way of saying fickle) visitor happy.

As with many towns in Germany that have medieval beginnings, there’s a castle. However, the castle ruins here predate the Middle Ages by centuries — all the way back to the Celts, mind you.

If its medieval architecture you really want to see, then the Maria Rosenberg is the place to go. The former pilgrimage church is one of those Romanesque churches, constructed sometime in the 12th century. And there’s yet another one of those medieval wonders in the village of Burgalben — you can’t miss its huge stone tower.

Your trip to see Waldfishbach-Burgalben’s buildings don’t end here, ya know. Nope, why not visit the Heritage Museum — full of exhibits on rural life in the area, not to mention info on the Romans.

What else did I mention about what you’d find here? Oh yes, the outdoorsy stuff. Well, as if hiking up the Heidelburg castle ruins wasn’t enough, there’s also a Forest Trail — running just three circular kilometers up to the Gallows Hill (a great lookout spot to enjoy the scenery) and back again. There’s also the Nature Trail Heltersberg, an 18-hole golf course, guided horse back rides, carriage rides, and even an ostrich farm.

Cyclists, don’t feel left out, since a number of paths are laid-out just for you — and bike rental areas are available if you don’t have yours. Very thoughtful, yes?

We all know I’m more interested in the parties, but sadly I wasn’t here for the Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival), and I missed the Rosenberger Musiktage, nor did I make it for the Dorffest (Village Festival) and Nordic Walking-Lauf, which are all in May. While June’s the month for the Kerwe, a traditional two day event.

This is what I get for doing this in early February — lack of planning on my part. Nah, let’s just say I’m early. ;-)

Aglasterhausen — Evoking The Old World

March 28th, 2017

On the northeast edge of the wonderful Kraichgau, just about 25km east of the magnificent city of Heidelberg, lies the picturesque town of Aglasterhausen — all four districts of it.

Independently, Aglasterhausen’s villages evoke a total “Old World” charm, mind you. Take the village of Aglasterhausen itself, home to half-timbered houses, and both a graceful Rathaus (Town Hall) and church in the middle of town. Maybe this is why?

You’ll find another 19th century Rathaus and church in the middle of Breitbronn, along with some old fountains and other buildings from a few centuries ago. Ooh, more half-timbers to look at.

Daudenzell’s church is one of the oldest around, whose tower dates all the way back to the 13th century. Besides, who couldn’t appreciate a Protestant church with beautiful wall and ceiling paintings, dating back to the Gothic time period. And speaking of art, the local Rathaus is also decorated with scenes of local history. However, the Parsonage is a much newer addition to the village, not constructed until 1735.

I most certainly am not complaining — nothing wrong with that, is there? ;-)

The village of Daudenzell might have some old buildings from quite a number of centuries ago, but keep in mind the place was once crawling with Romans along the Neckar-Odenwald Limes.

OK, one last “history lesson” before we get to the fun (as in the partying) stuff. Right on the Hauptstraße you’ll find a memorial to a Bavarian Duke (Karl-Theodor, to be exact), a man who helped the town develop economically with his trade policies.

Perhaps the good Duke wanted everyone to appreciate the beauty of the region, just like you can these days at the Michelsee. Strolling along the lake isn’t enough (actually it is), so you’re bound to find yourself your own personal Heaven along an Odenwald hiking trail or bike path.

Just be sure you make it back to Aglasterhausen in time to enjoy the fun like the Maypole festivities (April 30/May 1st), or the Fischerfest (in June on the Marktplatz). But, I’m kind of partial to making it back for the Sunday evenings music concerts at the Catholic Church (right on the Marktplatz, so it’s easy to find) from May to September.

So, while Aglasterhausen might have a total Old World feel to it, it’s also a modern place with great cultural events, right in the beautiful Odenwald countryside.

Amt Neuhaus — Coming Back To Where It Belongs

March 27th, 2017

It can be difficult to write about a place without writing about some (a lot) of its history. You see, the modern town of Amt Neuhaus has seen some serious changes over the years — especially the mid- to late 20th century.

The town you see before you today wasn’t always so idyllic… so peaceful. As World War II came to an end, and Germany was divided, the towns of Amt Neuhaus ceased to belong to Lower Saxony; hidden behind the Iron Curtain in the state of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania in the Soviet Zone, with a 5km exclusion zone and a barrier that stretched for 500-meters.

Many of Amt Neuhaus’ residents were forced from their homes, as they were awfully close to the Inner German Border. After Germany’s reunification, Amt Neuhaus returned to Lower Saxony — and now everyone can enjoy the Biosphere Reserve Lower Saxony Elbe Valley.

Sure, sounds good as a whole, what does that mean? Oh look, another tree? No, of course not. It means you’ll enjoy the view of the Sumter See, a peaceful lake in the middle of a forest.

Not being one to live by dunes and trees alone, Amt Neuhaus does have a number of old buildings to visit. In my not so humble opinion, the Lutheran Church in the village of Tripkau is the best. Its half-timbered construction came along almost 300 years ago, replacing the original early-17th century one.

An old castle would’ve been nice, and had you been here three centuries ago — you’d have gotten one. Too bad the poor, old Duke’s castle had to be demolished, but the materials went to live on as a Jagdschloss, although the original castle wall still stands.

For the one-millionth time, it’s best to always come by a Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) if you’re wanting to learn more about things. The Pforthaus is Amt Neuhaus’ museum — and has exhibits on how people were forced from their homes as the grip of Soviet controlled zone tightened. The village of Vockfey has their own “memorial” to those under the GDR occupation — the Denkpyramide, along with a Dokumentationsstätte, or Documentation site.

As if all this historical goodness isn’t enough, Amt Neuhaus is great for so many other activities like canoeing, as well as stork watching, special guided tours, and even motorized rafting and horse back riding.

Amt Neuhaus really is remarkable, no wonder Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania wanted it, but it truly is grand that it returned to Lower Saxony — right where it belongs.

Dörpen — Flat, Friendly, Happy

March 21st, 2017

As if navigating around Germany isn’t difficult enough (okay, it’s not all that bad), but it can tend to be confusing — especially when you’ve got a town named Dörpen, and a Samtgemeinde (Collective Municipality) with the same name. Either way, you’re in the same place.

And as I’ve said before, the best place to start in just about any German town is the Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum). These museums are great for learning all about what life was once like around these places — although this one will also give the details about paper production in the region.

What you could also do is visit the Tourist Office (located at Ahlener Straße 1) to find out all the details about hiking or cycling around the Emsland. There are a good number of marked trails and scenic routes, like the Ems-Radweg (Ems Cycle Route), the Dortmund-Ems Canal Route, the 600km long United Countries Tour (you’re not that far from the Netherlands), and the 32km long Küstenkanalradweg (Coastal Canal Cycle Route).

Sheesh, I’m tired although I didn’t even attempt to navigate my way around these trails. ;-)

One of the more interesting ways of getting around is the ferry. It only uses pure muscle power to get across, so the only way you’re getting aboard is if you’re a pedestrian or cyclist — that’s right, no cars allowed.

No biggie, you don’t want to be cramped up in a coupe if you’re able to walk about Dörpen to see its old churches, like the one dedicated to St. George, built way back in 1512. Plus, there’s another museum in the village of Neubörgen (it’s all about agricultural machines), and you’ll find a Gallery Dutch Windmill in Wippingen.

The only thing I missed out on was one of Dörpen’s festivals and cultural events. So don’t follow me, I didn’t plan accordingly and missed out on the Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival, in March), the Heeder Kirmes in October, and the Heeder in Flammen in August.

Dammit, I didn’t even get here for the Weekly Market on Wednesdays.

Must’ve been too distracted by all the fun at the Heeder See — a fun lake with a beach, waterskiing, hiking trails, and little cottages for when you’re all tuckered out.

Which is exactly what I am right now, but not to tired to say I just love Dörpen — both the town and the Samtgemeinde.

Estenfeld — Windy Parties And A Pieta

March 20th, 2017

Germans are often stereotyped as often too formal, stuffy (stiff, cold, etc.), and always punctual.

OK, that’s not too far off the mark — we Germans do believe in punctuality, but here in the town of Estenfeld it’s anything but stuffy; these people are a fun loving crowd. So really, how stuffy could they possibly be?

Seriously, with all the festivals and events going on around here throughout the year it’s easy enough to say that. As with many Bavarian towns, the Starkbierfest (Strong Beer Festival) is always a treat in March, while the Maypole celebrations are a fantastic way of welcoming the Spring after winter releases its icy grasp.

And get ready to put on your dancin’ shoes, ’cause June and July bring on the Pfarrfest (Parish Festival) in the village of Kürnach, two Summer Festivals, followed by yet another Pfarrfest in Estenfeld proper.

August isn’t going to go down without fight over what month has the best event — so come the end of August when it’s all about the Zwiebelkirchweih and yet another Summer Festival. October’s contribution to the festivities is the Herbstmarkt (Autumn Festival), while November has the Nikolausmarkt. And let’s not forget about the Advent concerts held throughout the holiday season.

Phew, with all this you’d think there was no time to see some of Estenfeld’s awesome architecture — but here’s where good German planning is essential. You’ll have to make sure you leave time to see the very lovely Pfarrkirche St. Mauritius, built way back in 1614. The church is known for its Pieta, so there’s no missing that.

Plus, you’ll want to see the Church of St. George, a grand example of early 18th century construction. Not too shabby for a town that started as a simple Stone Age settlement, is it?

Between you and me (in my not so humble opinion), the best way to see what it must’ve been like “in the old days,” the quiet walking paths through the countryside can kinda do that. Of course, there are themed trails if you’re into that sort of thing.

I am. But before I go there, I’ll take a visit to places like the Weiße Mühle, the White Mill dating back to around the 12th century — although this old mill these days is only about 500 years old. It has, however, seen such notable times in history as the Thirty Years’ War and the likes of Napoleon himself.

Do you think the short French guy would’ve appreciated one of Estenfeld’s parties?

Ahh, who cares, I like them — and so will you.

Schönheide — Brusches, Hikes, Elegant Edifices

March 17th, 2017

Here it is, a late December morning — filled with all the promise of what anyone can expect from Schönheide, a captivating town in the Ore Mountains. That’s right… time to don your warmest gear, because it’s off to do such grand activities like taking a sleigh ride or cross-country ski.

Darn it, I was too late for the Christmas Market (that happens in late November). And I was also too late for the Christmas concerts, too. Oh well, there’s always next year.

Plus, I get it. I get it. Not everyone’s into the whole wintery wonderland stuff that turns your cheeks red and makes your fingers go a bit numb.

So for you, come in the Spring or Summer (OK, the Autumn, too) to hike the scenic beauty of the Schönheider Forest, or just mull around the village of Neuheide (one of Schönheide’s four) with its rolling hills and green fields.

If I was going to explore around this town’s countryside, I’d have to give the Kräuterlehrpfad (Herbal Educational Trail) a whirl — and not just because it’s only six kilometers long. OK, that’s part of it; how else am I gonna find the time to bike the Mulde Valley Bike Path or take a covered wagon ride, too?

Sorry, I’m on a tight schedule… these articles don’t write themselves. ;-)

No time for chit-chat, there’s only so much time to tell you about the Bürsten- und Heimatmuseum (Brushes and Local History Museum), housed in an old 17th century building. That’s two historical things for the price of one, wouldn’t you say?

And the warmer months bring on opportunities to check out the narrow-gauge railway. Better plan ahead though, it only operates a few times a year. That’s all right, because that’ll give you lots of chances to visit the Martin Luther Church (known for its concerts), or better yet, visit the local Wernesgrüner Brauerei at Bergstraße 4.

Well, isn’t that a nice place to be on a cold December day?

Beer drinking isn’t limited to just the brewery. Come September when there’s the Bürstenfest, while the Kirmes is held on the second weekend of every October, and the Feuerwehrfest (Firefighter’s Festival, not Fireman — this is the 21st century) is held in August.

Hmm, if I build a fire to keep warm the cold — do you think someone might call the Fire Brigade? Let’s find out. ;-)

Haßmersheim — Curative Cycling Along The Neckar

March 17th, 2017

A wonderful thing about a town that isn’t overflowing with a million things to do, is it offers those visiting a chance to get to know what is here a whole lot better.

Whew, that was a mouthful — but when it comes to the town of Haßmersheim, it’s all about quality over quantity.

Nothing wrong with that, is there? Just like I can’t find anything wrong with Castle Guttenberg. The views from the castle are fantastic, although I’d say the thought of this 15th century castle’s torture chamber are downright creepy. Guttenberg is closed to visitors from December to March, but the castle’s bird shelter is open year round. So no matter the weather, you’re able to see everything from owls to eagles for flight demonstrations — and learn how the shelter cares for injured animals.

As for the nature side of Haßmersheim, you won’t find anything better than the Salz- und Sole-Radweg (Salt & Brine Cycle Route). This 36-kilometer route has more than two dozen information boards, as well as offering a chance to see an old mine — and the chance to swim in brine. Hey, don’t balk, it seems to be quite therapeutic!

Even if all you want is just a quiet hike, Haßmersheim can deliver. This is the Neckartal as well as the Odenwald region, so it’s a delightful trek no matter what direction you head off in. No worries about car traffic if you’re traveling over the local pedestrian/bicycle bridge, that stretches for some 222-meters.

Hmm, functional German engineering.

Just be sure you leave yourself time to visit the town’s Schiffahrtsmuseum. Ah, don’t let the word scare ya — it’s just the German way of saying it has a Maritime Museum. The museum itself is located near the town’s Evangelical Church, a petty 19th century building that was constructed over an even older one — and shouldn’t be confused with the Catholic Church, also from the 19th century.

For those of you out there who appreciate a good party, Haßmersheim has a whole bunch of those. Carnival kicks off the events in February, while the Maibaumfest is an end of April affair. The end of May brings on the Hafenfest (Harbor Festival) and the Burgfest (Castle Festival), followed by the Corpus Christi events, and the Brunnenfest (Fountain Festival) in July, and an obligatory Kerwe in August.

October’s a grand month to be here in Haßmersheim, since that’s when the town hosts yet another Kerwe (in the village of Hochhausen), and a Wine Festival. Plus, there’s a Nikolausmarkt (early December), followed by a Christmas Market in late December.

Now I know what I said about quality over quantity, but all of these festivals and events are totally outstanding — giving everyone who comes to Haßmersheim the best of both worlds.

Talheim (Heilbronn) — Dying For the Wine

March 15th, 2017

Everyone’s probably heard that death and taxes are the inevitable, but here in the romantic town of Talheim (near Heilbronn), it’s all about death and wine.

Oh, I know this doesn’t sound like a very positive beginning — but trust me, a method to my madness exists.

You see, back in the early 1980s a mass grave dating back to around 5,000 B.C. was found here. Known as the “Death Pit of Talheim,” this prehistoric grave (with over 30 people buried in it) is a wealth of information on those who lived all those centuries ago.

As for the wine part of town, how many of you out there in cyber-world can’t appreciate sloped vineyards dotted with delicious grapes? I certainly do, and I’m quite fond of the community hikes around the vineyards, and all the wine events held throughout the year.

Just as many of you out there already know I’m quite fond of castles — so good thing there are two here to make me happy. The Obere Schloss (Upper Castle) is the older of the pair, built sometime in the 12th or 13th century. The Untere Schloss (Lower Castle) you see before you came along some 500 years later, but that’s built over the original one from the early years of the 1400s.

It seems the Church of St. Kilian is way older than either of the castles, since the oldest part of church was constructed a thousand years ago in the 11th century. Look, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it — don’t care the church standing these days is only about 600 years old. Whatever, because inside are beautiful Gothic paintings and grave plates belonging to royalty.

Please don’t think there’s nothing else to see but old castles and a medieval church, because there’s still quite a bit of town that requires exploration. In the center of town you’ll find some pretty half-timbered houses. It is, however, hard to tear yourself from lovely old buildings like the Alte Rathaus (Old Town Hall), but you’ll have to if you want to see the beauty of Talheim’s nature side.

And I don’t mean just the Mineral Spring (at Soultzmatter Straße), either. Nope, you’ll just love hiking along the Neckar River, around the Frankelbachsee (sorry, the Tauchsteinsee is private property), or strolling around on the Burgweg and/or Traubenweg.

Of course you could choose to bike along a number of trails instead — like the one that’ll take you past Schloss Liebenstein (over in Neckarwestheim). No worries if you get too tired, the longest route around town is only like 67km. ;-)

Ohh, that does sound like a lot when you think of it like that — perhaps sitting around making new friends at one of Talheim’s festivals is a better idea. One of the biggest events in town takes place over the course of a few days every two years — known as the Gassenfescht. The one in 2015 was a huge hit with locals and visitors alike.

Can’t make it in the summer? No worries, come for the Fisherman’s Festival in April instead.

Maybe I should have said Talheim is all about death, wine, and fun times — but what I do know is, I certainly want to come back for more. :-)

Bischofsheim an der Rhön — Positively Medieval

March 14th, 2017

I have this friend nicknamed the “Medieval Chef;” so named because he absolutely refuses to join the 21st century with using a computer or anything of the sort. Not because he specializes in the kitchen cuisine from Emperor Barbarossa or England’s Henry VIII’s time. What’s my point?

Well, he’d be totally at home in the medieval town of Bischofsheim an der Rhön.

Because nothing screams the Middle Ages more than a proper castle, does it? All except the Osterburg isn’t a castle any longer, it’s totally in ruins; and the funny part is, no one quite knows when that happened — just that by the 1600s it was totally gone.

With some imagination it won’t take much to see its once former grandeur, that’s for sure. And if you’re lucky (or unlucky depending on how you look at it), you might come across the “Virgin in White,” a ghost said to haunt the area.

Funny, I’m surprised there aren’t more specters over the centuries since the area of the Osterburg was once a Celtic stronghold.

Moving right along, another medieval site my chef friend could appreciate would be Kloster Kreuzberg. Built over what was once a pagan site, the monastery receives over a half-million visitors a year — but I’m pretty sure the Klosterbrauerei (Monastery Brewery) has nothing to do with it — they’re coming to see its beautiful high altar. Aren’t they?

And as for beautiful, not much else is more lovely than the Lower Franconian countryside (hello, Bischofsheim lies around a UNESCO Biosphere area). I’d probably say this is why the Hochrhöner Premiumweg was rated “one of the most beautiful hiking routes” in all of Germany.

What’s even better is the Hochrhönbus runs on weekends (and holidays) between May and October — perfect for when you’re just plain tuckered out from all that walking.

Hiking isn’t the only activity (but with 170km of trails you could do it for a long time), it’s just one of many.

Deep breath… here we go…

You’ve got a choice to try bicycling; mountain biking; hot air ballooning; swimming; ice skating; cross-country skiing; and snowboarding — or you could do all of them.

As if this isn’t enough to keep you busy for a lifetime, Bischofsheim has quite a number of cultural events and activities taking place throughout the year. This is a tradition-loving town where wood carving has been going on for centuries; it’s a place where it’s fun to celebrate Carnival; and where mutton stew (with dumplings) is a culinary delight during its Kirchweih celebration.

That’s something any foodie or chef could appreciate, especially my Medieval Chef friend. ;-)

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