Gerstungen Makes Your Heart Go Aflutter

February 26th, 2014

I feel sorry for the other states, I think you’ve been usurped by Thuringia as my favorite place in Germany. It took but a mere moment in the town of Gerstungen to make my heart go aflutter.

Really, I don’t know what it was about Gerstungen. Maybe it wasn’t one particular thing — perhaps the combination of its six villages that rendered me downright speechless.

One of its more beautiful villages is Lauchröden, a shire with its own castle ruin. This 3-tower medieval Burg has been here for almost nine centuries — but actually goes back to the days of the Romans. Every two years the castle (or what’s left of it anyway) is the venue for all sorts of theater performances.

And the village’s grey stone, onion domed clock tower church isn’t anything to sneeze at, either. As old as this village is, it can party hard — especially on the 2nd weekend of every other October for its annual parade.

Of all of Gerstungen’s churches, the Round Church of Untersuhl is probably its most famous. And it’s appropriately named because — guess what — it’s round. Come inside to see this Lutheran Church’s Baroque frescoes, even though this stunning piece of architecture’s been around from the 12th century.

Not all of the town’s history goes back that far. During the Cold War, Gerstungen sat right on the Inner German Border — just a stone’s throw from Hesse. Much of Gerstungen’s history can be learned at the Werratal Museum, nicely located within an old castle. And it isn’t all war and military history to be learned, as there are exhibits on daily life, furniture, and even goods like ceramics.

When you add all this to the natural beauty of this hilly region, you can’t help but want to stay forever. The Kohlbachtal is a nature reserve area, so any hiking trail you find (including the nearby Rennsteig) will be a good one.

It isn’t that hard to figure out why I’m so head over heels in love with Gerstungen (and all of Thuringia for that matter) — just as I hope you will be too.

Adorf (Vogtland) — A Pearl In The Elstergebirge

February 2nd, 2014

Forget diamonds being a girl’s best friend. Here in the Saxon town of Adorf (or officially, Adorf/Vogtland), it’s all about the pearls. Hey, jewels are jewels, so who’s complaining? And as for jewels, I have to say, Adorf is a gem of a town.

As for the pearls, housed within the Freiberger Tor is the Local History Museum, with Germany’s largest pearls and nacre exhibition. That’s not to say you won’t learn about Adorf’s, well, history, along the way. You might learn that Goethe even stayed here for a few days back in 1795.

Sorry, you won’t find graffiti anywhere from the 18th century saying “JWvG was here.” Trust me, I looked. ;-)

What you will find is the Bahnbetriebswerk, full of old steam and diesel locomotive trains. It’s a proper graveyard for these machines; which is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 10am to 6pm.

Since the train “museum” is only open on “even” weekends, it’ll leave you ample time to explore the rest of Adorf. Go up to the Remtengrün tower for a 360-degree view of the Saxon/Bohemian countryside. Yes, I said Bohemia — because you see that place right next door? Yeah, it’s the Czech Republic.

You really should come see Adorf’s Church of St. Michael. Oh, it might look all Art Nouveau these days, but there’s been a church on this spot for hundreds and hundreds of years. The St. John Church might look more austere compared to St. Michael’s, but that doesn’t mean you should overlook it.

As for some of the other “old” stuff around town, come see the old Postmeilensäule, or mile posts, that were put here in the 1720s and ’30s. Consider them the 18th century Google Maps.

You’ll need something as a reference guide, ’cause it’s easy to lose yourself in the countryside. And there are more than enough outdoor recreational activities to keep you quite busy. It’s your choice if you want to trek along the Vogtland Panoramaweg, hike the Wanderweg der Deutschen Einheit (Trail of German Unity), go horseback riding, or bike riding.

Whew, I don’t know about that last one — this is some mountainous terrain, as Adorf is located in the Elstergebirge.

Forget it, I’ll take shopping at the Christmas Market or Tulpenmarkt (mid-April) instead. No, make that swimming at the Waldbad instead. Better yet, give me the Village Festivals (in July and August). See ya there! :-)

Breitenbrunn (Erzgebirge) — Snow Trails, Mining History

January 27th, 2014

Wow, it sure does snow a whole helluva lot here in the Erzgebirge, or the Ore Mountains as it’s called in English. I guess you’re going to need plenty of the white stuff if you’re going to do the whole cross-country ski trail thing here in Breitenbrunn (Erzgebirge).

Whew, that left no room for any kind of intro — that just went right in for the punch, didn’t it? Hey, who’s got that kind of time? I don’t. There are ski trails here in Saxony with my name on them.

Now I realize that not everyone enjoys the wintery white stuff, so good thing there is stuff to do when it’s warmer outside.

A good place to start are the ruins of the Jagdhaus Breitenbrunn. This 13th century hunting lodge, with moat, no less, was in ruin by the time the first days of the 18th century came around. Bad for them, good for us, now we all get to enjoy it.

I can’t guarantee you’ll like the weather down in the Fuchslochstollen, a throwback to the town’s mining days. The Silberwäsche Technical Museum is also a place that highlights the town’s industrial days.

The warmer weather is a good time to get out into the countryside to see the town’s “protected areas.” You won’t really find the area of the Himmelwiese all built up with stripmalls and such.

Still, we can all appreciate a beautiful building when we see one, right? And I’d say the Haus des Gastes with its gleaming white exterior falls into that category. So does the St. Christopher Church, an Evangelical Methodist (you thought I was going to say Lutheran) Church from the 1550s.

Thanks for mentioning a church, it reminds me to tell you about Breitenbrunn’s Kirmes — the town’s Church Festival that happens on the last weekend of every August.

If that ain’t worth coming here when the weather’s warmer, I don’t know what is — even if there are some snow trails with my name on it.

Nabburg — The Upper Palatinate Forest Is Proud

January 24th, 2014

Will the wonders of Bavaria never cease? I sure as heck hope not — because a world without towns like Nabburg is a world not worth living in.

You really couldn’t ask for a better spot than right here in the Oberpfälzer Wald, or Upper Palatinate Forest. You outdoor loving people are in for a real treat, because not only will you find an outdoor pool, but an area that’s ripe for hiking and fishing, canoeing, cross-country skiing, and even a few ski lifts.

Those last two are during the winter months, in case you were wondering. ;-)

Of course you weren’t, but then again, you might’ve been distracted by all the great architecture around town. A guided tour is a great way to learn the history behind some of Nabburg’s buildings.

For those who wish to explore on their own, let me point out that you shouldn’t miss seeing the Obertor, a two-storey gate from the 1560s. And neither should you miss the Mähntor. This gate’s my favorite, a hodge-podge of stones and flower boxes along a cobble stoned lane.

You can’t miss, even if you tried, the Schmidt House. This green building is quite the conversation piece with its exterior paintings — and its remembrance to Carpe Diem, or Seize the Day.

Throughout Nabburg’s 28 districts there are a number of outstanding churches. And you’ll find everything from medieval Romanesque ones (like the 12th century St. Nicholas), to the Baroque decorated ones like Sts. Peter & Paul. Not only does this one have Gothic frescoes, it has its own Ossuary (or a Bone House) at the Cemetery Chapel.

Still, leaving out a visit to the Gothic Church St. John the Baptist, and the Alte Rathaus (Old Town Hall) isn’t a good idea. Just be sure you’ve left ample time to take in a stop over at the City Museum (Stadtmuseum) in an old Tithe Barn from the 1540s, and the Pflegschloss — a governmental building that saw Henry the Lion sign a 10th century document.

Pretty amazing, right? And aren’t I glad that I live in a world that has Nabburg in it? :-)

Einhausen — Tranquility On The Bergstrasse

January 23rd, 2014

To say that it’s way too pretty in the Hessian town of Einhausen to be indoors isn’t a stretch of the imagination. Oh, heck no, Einhausen lies along the Bergstraße, right on the edge of the Odenwald.

For most folks that might be enough to tempt them to leave their couches; but not you folks — you’re a more sophisticated crowd. And I’m here to tell you all the wonderful things you’ll find.

The only time this outdoor thing applies is at the local indoor swimming pool. A good swim after hiking along the mountain peaks of the Bergstraße can be a good idea — that water will feel wonderful on those muscles, that’s for sure.

Where was I? That’s right, the wonders of Einhausen in addition to the Bergstraße. Really, Einhausen is quite famous for its Carnival; that middle of winter event of merry making before the long 40 days of sacrificing Lent.

This part of Germany really likes to get in on the festivities, so expect a couple of days of good cheer, good food, and family friendly entertainment. What? This isn’t your New Orleans Mardi Gras, ya know.

Einhausen is also known for its Kerwe, or church fair (and sometimes called a fete). I don’t care what you call it, but it always happens on the first weekend of October — filled with more good food, more good cheer, and more family friendly entertainment.

Think of what this church event must’ve been like back in 1968 when the town church turned 1200 years old. Damn, that old and still kickin’ it with a good time. It seems this town has more going for it than just the great outdoors. ;-)

It seems family friendly is found all around Einhausen, too. Wouldn’t it be nice to take the whole crew out for a hike around the Hessian Ried? And there are still other events that everyone’s welcome to join in on — like the Laternenfest in early September.

Yeah, Einhausen’s got its outdoorsy things to do — but still isn’t it nice to know that if you wanted more — you’ve got it.

Stadtroda — Faust Or No Faust, That’s The Question

January 22nd, 2014

Have you ever heard the advice about not believing everything you read? Wait, this isn’t a good way to start off considering I’m asking you to read this. Hold on though, I got a point…

The thing is; there’s a rumor that Faust was born here in the Thuringian town of Stadtroda. True, or not, I wouldn’t like it if no one believed what else Stadtroda has to offer because of this whole Faust thing.

Right — so off to investigate…

And right to heart of it, I didn’t find anything to support the fact that Faust was born here. What I did find was a bunch of villages and hamlets with some wonderful architecture.

I’ll save the best for last, which are the ruins of the Kloster Roda, so we’ll start off in the village of Hainbücht (not that it isn’t a nice place, but you got to start somewhere) that has an old mill from the early 1600s, and the World War I Memorial.

From here it’s on to see the Holy Cross Church, a building that’s seen a lot of construction from its beginnings in 1040, to Gothic and Baroque renovations.

The City Museum is just as good a place to learn more of Stadtroda’s history, if you’re interested in learning more about how this little town grew. It didn’t grow too much; it’s only as big as like 16 square kilometers.

It’s still big enough to have its own castle, and it’s big enough to have its own medieval “gate” from its medieval origins. Get a good look at the Rotes Tor (Red Gate), it’s the only one left of its original five — and so called because it’s actually red (duh).

With all that done and out of the way, it’s time to visit Kloster Roda. Well, what once used to be a Cistercian monastery for nuns in the Middle Ages. It was built in 1228, and its church was a lovely Gothic design — only to be totally destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War. Nonetheless, the old monastery ruins are a portal to Germany’s medieval past.

You know, it’s okay that Faust didn’t make his appearance in Stadtroda — this place is grand enough to stand without him.

Ebersdorf bei Coburg — Have Fun, Feel Better

January 20th, 2014

Today started off in pretty bad shape. There was a storm brewing on the horizon, nothing electrical wanted to work, and I had pretty much had written off the rest of the day to failure. That was until I got to see the town of Ebersdorf bei Coburg.

Which, by the way, only goes to show you no matter what happens — Bavaria will somehow, some way, always make you feel better.

Maybe it was walking along the small lanes and tree lined streets that turned my otherwise dismal day into something to sing about. No, I think it was the half-timbered houses along Kellergasse and Hauptstraße.

At Hauptstraße 1 you’ll find the once bustling Gasthaus Goldener Adler. This is what Old World Germany is all about — picture perfect in the village of Frohnlach, one of just five hamlets of the town.

The timber-framed houses aren’t the only buildings in town that took me out of my funky mood. In the village of Großgarnstadt is a lovely onion-domed Evangelical Church, and some half-timbered houses, too.

Within Ebersdorf itself, I only had eyes for the dark grey stones of the Evangelical St. Lawrence Church. No, maybe it was the strangely odd 5-point tower that made it so beautiful.

It might have been the hiking trails through Ebersdorf in the Lichtenfels Forest. Did you know that this entire forest in Lower Franconia once belonged to a medieval monastery? Yeah, me either. Until today, that is. And I can’t even begin to think how you own an entire forest?

Anyway, back to Ebersdorf… The only thing missing that would’ve gotten me from my mood would’ve been a festival. It’s not that Ebersdorf doesn’t have any, mind you. It just wasn’t any going on today. You got to be here in early May for the Spring Festival, or October for the village Flea Market, and come December when there are Christmas events.

Just thinking about that is enough to get anyone out of a stinky mood. So, bring on the storm. Bring on the power surges. I’ll just come back to Ebersdorf to make myself feel better every time. :-)

Dietfurt an der Altmühl — Chinese Carnival In The Altmühltal

January 17th, 2014

Haven’t we gone through this once before? Didn’t I say I wanted no part of anything with the word “diet” in it? Good thing I don’t always listen to myself, otherwise I’d have missed out on seeing Dietfurt an der Altmühl in the Upper Palatinate.

And it’s a nice place to learn all about China.

China? Have I turned this into a Chinese website? No, but in the Town Hall there’s a huge exhibition on all things Chinese. Come the Monday before Carnival, experience a big Chinese Carnival. A fun way to bring some cheer into a cold winter day.

Any season is a good season to walk around Dietfurt, a town within the Altmühltal Nature Park. Guided hikes are available if you want someone to show you around, but going solo is just as good — so long as you’re going to the Schönblick lookout point.

Too bad you can’t get into the Mühlbachquellhöhle, a cave system that’s got some 15 boards full of information on the sub-surface network.

And whether you’ve dragged a guide along, or you’re on your own — make sure you come to see Schloss Wildenstein, a castle from the 16th century. And be sure you come to see the old Franciscan Monastery with its very famous Baroque church. Within the monastery’s grotto is the St. Anthony Fountain, dedicated to Saint Anthony — of course.

Dietfurt isn’t without its museums, either. A Local History Museum will fill you in on the (duh) history of the town, while the Mill Museum highlights the inner workings of this 500+ year old building.

Even something so simple as a stroll around town is charming enough. Some other fountains to look for would be the Ammonite Fountain, and the Fountain at the Schauerturm. This last one (a tower) comes from around 1444, built along the old town wall. Just so you know, six of the original 10 towers remain, like the Bettelvogtturm.

If a “diet” is this rewarding, I’ll take Dietfurt any day of the week. Even better if I can still get into my jeans at the end of it all.

Ohh, with all the hiking… they’re even a little loose! ;-)

Deißlingen — Cycling On The Neckar And German Clock Route

January 17th, 2014

It is really hard to talk about the town of Deißlingen without thinking about its history. This is really (really, really) old real estate around here, despite being a pretty modern town in Württemberg.

Back in the 1930s, then again in the 1990s, some Alemanni graves were found. This is a few centuries before the town was actually “recognized” in the 9th century. Yeah, sure, it sounds old; but some Roman artifacts were found here, making Deißlingen older than its birthday says it is.

I’m pretty sure the Romans and Alemanni had no clue that the Deißlingen of their day would morph into the town of just over 6,000; and would find itself on the German Clock Route, and the Neckartal-Radweg (Neckar Valley Cycle Trail).

Oh, you know what this last one means, right? A cycle path that’s great family fun, don’t you think? What’s really nice is the Neckar River runs right up the middle of the town, making a walk along its banks a nice outing for everyone. And Deißlingen sits on the edge of two other “districts,” so try not to wander too far off — lets you miss out on a party or something.

Deißlingen’s cultural events make for a nice family outing, too. Would you believe the town holds an Oktoberfest actually in, get this, October? Come Advent and Christmas time when the town has some other culture events that are great to enjoy through the season. And bring along the little ones to Deißlingen’s Kinderbasar, or Children’s Bazaar.

A festival is no time to visit any kind of museum, so wait until afterwards to go on over to see all the watch making history over at Deißlingen Hall.

For real, I know there isn’t a whole lot of other sightseeing going here in Deißlingen — but its long history and very pretty countryside make it easy to love it regardless.

Dötlingen — Eventful Past, Beautiful Future

January 17th, 2014

Kudos to the town of Dötlingen — for being a regional winner of the “Our Village is Beautiful” (1999), and for its place in the Our Village Has A Future competitions.

In between its “beauty pageant” winner status, and its future, lies thousands of years of history; and a natural landscape that could keep you busy the rest of your natural born life.

The biggest attraction to Dötlingen is its string of some 30 megalithic tombs, which go back to the Neolithic period. That’s from like 4,000 to 1,800 B.C. Damn, that’s old, isn’t it?

If you want to see what archaeologists found in those tombs, go to the Museum of Nature in nearby Oldenburg. This is where you’ll hear the story of the “bog girl,” found in 1784.

Don’t run off yet, you still got to see the Church of St. Firmin, a blended church of Romanesque and Gothic design from around 1270. That’s not really old here, is it?

Hmm, the Thousand Year Old Oak isn’t either — but still standing proud after being split by lightning.

Dötlingen sits within the Wildeshauser Geest (oh, come to think of it — I haven’t been here in a while, so good to be back). And it’s easy enough to understand why so many artists want to live within Dötlingen’s Artist Colony.

It’s easy to be inspired by the hiking trails along the Giersberg; and along the fish ponds, I guess.

What else is there to see in Dötlingen? Plenty more, believe it, or not. Over in the village of Ostrittrum is both a zoo and leisure park. And throughout all of Dötlingen’s villages are lots of half-timbered houses. Even the largest one in all of northwest Germany; which would be the Tabkenhof, by the way, at some 58 meters long.

There’s a mighty big rock to be found here, too. Over in Neerstedt you’ll see this massive Scandinavian granite block — and only 1.2 meters of this gigantic stone is even visible.

Huge rocks, prehistoric tombs, half-timbered houses, and hiking trails that inspire folks to create — no wonder Dötlingen’s a “Beautiful Village.” And while it certainly has a future, it celebrates its past. Yup, kudos to you, Dötlingen.

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