Nünchritz — Ordinary Appearance, Simple Beauty

November 20th, 2013

My sole job in life is to tell the world about the wonders of Germany. Trying to fill you all in on each and every town is a huge undertaking, but well worth it since the quest of all quests brings me to places like Nünchritz.

From the first look of it, it seems to be just an ordinary Saxon town where workers bees head off to work in the local chemical factory that’s been employing lots of folks around here since the early 20th century.

Yet, it’s got a lot longer history that that; which is evident with one glance at its castle in the village of Seußlitz. OK, so what if its Baroque features means that it isn’t of a medieval construction — but it really is since it was here in 1205.

Some say that Seußlitz is the oldest of Nünchritz’s eleven villages, however the village of Merschwitz has been round from at least the 9th century — so I say this one’s technically older.

While historians (and whoever else) fight it out, I’ll tell you that Merschwitz is wonderful if you’re looking to travel along the Elbe Cycle Path or the Via Regia Lusatiae Superioris (there’s a monument to the village being on this scenic route; that used to be a trade route and is part of the larger VIA REGIA, by the way.

Merschwitz also has a 15th century church, if you want to stop by; and there’s an old Sawmill that seems to capture everyone’s attention in town — it’s kind of an imposing building, so maybe that’s why.

What else captures everyone’s attention is Nünchritz’s Marriage Market. Oh sorry, the Seußlitzer Marriage Market, an event that’s been going on for the better part of five centuries at Ascension time.

Looking for a spouse, anyone?

No? Ok, looking for a Castle Garden? If you are, you’ll find one with both a French and English style garden. Pretty. (See Seußlitz above.)

The Church Zschaiten is also pretty, that is if you can find the beauty in a very simple building from 1503. I think you’ll like it.

Just like I think you’ll like Nünchritz, a town that only appears to be ordinary.

Schwabhausen — Protection Keeps It Special

November 19th, 2013

What really stood out about the Upper Bavarian town of Schwabhausen was how many “monuments” stood under conservation. I guess with having some sixteen villages that was bound to happen.

The one that most stood out was the Catholic Church of St. Michael, although only its tower remains of its Romanesque origins. That’s not to take anything away from the Church of St. Nicholas, which is a Gothic one with some Baroque styling to make it even lovelier. Nor, does it take anything from St. Castulus’, which is also a blend of Gothic architecture and Baroque accents.

Over at the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul, you’ll find another Baroque styled church — this one did have its start back in the Middle Ages as a Romanesque one. And the Church of St. Laurentius also had its start as a Romanesque church.

It seems like every time you turn around in Germany there are churches upon churches to see, right? Some folks wouldn’t mind tramping through Europe (excuse me, Germany) to see some of the best architecture and art from a very romanticized age.

Yikes, here I go again getting all philosophical. ;-)

It’s kind of hard not to here in Schwabhausen, a town in the Dachau District not all that far from the magnificent city of Munich. And as hustling and bustling as it is there, the little villages of Schwabhausen are quite the opposite. Heck, some of the town’s villages have barely 500 people living in them; places like Puchschlagen that doesn’t even have 170 people living there.

But, back to what I was going on about originally… Some of Schwabhausen’s other places that are under protection are quite a few old buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. At Augsburger Straße 19 you’ll find a marker that commemorates the visit of a Pope back in 1782. And it’s been a while since I found a town with a castle, even if the one here is now a Kindergarten.

Somehow it still manages to go back to the churches, so why not go see the 19th century Wayside Chapel and the 16th century St. Petrus Church, too.

Whether you do or do not get to see everything is OK; so long as all of its sites remain under “monument protection,” they’ll be here for the next time you come around.

Zusmarshausen Is As Great As A Town Lined With Gold

November 18th, 2013

Twenty-three kilometers to the east of Augsburg, lies the Bavarian town of Zusmarshausen, a Swabian market town of eight districts. Within these eight villages are all sorts of treasures.

And not the kind you might think, either — there aren’t streets lined with gold, or anything like that. There are treasures to be found within Zusmarshausen, so long as you think seeing old churches and castle ruins fit the bill.

Then again, if you’re into the whole history thing, you’ll think you’ve hit the mother-load of treasure finds. The Thirty Years’ War ravaged much of Germany, and Zusmarshausen is no different; except for the fact that one of the last epic battles of this three decade long war took place here in 1648.

Centuries before that war, Burg Wolfsberg was built in the 10th century. While it might lie in ruins today, it doesn’t take much thought to imagine some poor chap stuck in its dungeon, or tapestries framing its cold and dank walls. At this point in time the castle has been in ruins just about as long as it stood until 1462 — and time has done nothing to dull its charm.

Just as much as castles dominated feudal life, so did the power of the church. Every village seems to have its own; and each is equally proud of them. We’ll start off in Gabelbach, with its Anna Chapel from 1745, and its St.Martin Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) that started off as a Romanesque church, eventually known for its Baroque art and architecture.

Gabelbachergreut also has its own Baroque church, this one dedicated to St. Leonhard, and atop an older one that stood here beforehand. St. Vitus remains true to its late-Gothic design from the 1400s; and along the way between the two of them you’ll find other little stops along the way — like little chapels, religious statues, and working farms.

Yeah, that was a stretch, wasn’t it? Still, Zusmarshausen was (and is) a working town with real working farms.

I told you you’d find treasures in Zusmarshausen, and they’re just as wonderful as a town full of gold streets — but if you find one of those, could you let me know? :-)

Zeithain — Graceful Villages Along The Elberadweg

November 18th, 2013

Situated along the Elbe River is a town of eleven villages known as Zeithain. Not too much goes on in it today, except for the everyday comings and goings of its 6000+ residents.

That’s not to say that they don’t live in some very pretty real estate, mind you. Most people out there wouldn’t mind waking up to wide open spaces and little country lanes — at least I’d like to think so.

Take the village of Gohlis, for instance. It’s a hamlet of cobble stoned streets, framed with red tiled houses and white picket fences. It’s like the American Dream — in Germany… ;-)

Promnitz got its start as a 12th century village; now it’s a town with pretty homes, and village women ride along on bicycles. Seems like the right spot for it since Zeithain lies along the Elberadweg (Elbe Bicycle Trail).

Kreinitz is just as pretty, and where you can see the church spire from a distance since not much else is built as tall. Metropolis it isn’t — Old World picture perfect it is.

At one point in history it wasn’t so idyllic. During World War II, Zeithain was the site of Stalag IV-B — and now the Gedenkstätte Ehrenhain Zeithain (Zeithain Memorial Grove) stand in honor of the POWs who were forced to be here.

Anyone on a quest for history can go further back than just the mid-20th century. The Church of St. Lorenz has been here for centuries. And while nowhere near as old, the Bockwindmühle in the village of Zschepa is still a piece of history in itself.

Still, the real charm of Zeithain lies in its small villages; with its bike trails, graceful churches, and open fields. Yeah, sure, I wouldn’t mind waking up to that kind of lovely everyday — wouldn’t you?

Großschönau — A Gosh Darn Good Time For Damask

November 16th, 2013

I don’t care if you call it Großschönau, Wulki Šunow, or Velký Šenov — it all comes out to be the same thing — a town on the German/Czech Republic border (and really close to Poland) that’s quite famous for its damask.

Wulki Šunow, by the way, is Upper Sorbian for Großschönau; while Velký Šenov is its Czech name.

Ha, don’t say you and I didn’t learn something new today. ;-)

Want to know what else I learned today? I learned that Großschönau has almost 700 half-timbered houses, making it the only town in Upper Lusatia with so many.

Funny, you’d think with as many as they have at least one would be Großschönau’s Town Hall, though that honor falls to a very pretty Classical design building from the 1820s.

Großschönau’s Evangelical Lutheran Church is a place to see, too. Don’t worry about it being crowed, this early 18th century church can hold some 2,000 people. It might be why it’s said to be the largest of its kind in Saxony.

Ohh, another highlight for Großschönau…

You’ll find no less than three museums to visit here in town. The most famous one being the German damask and Frottiermuseum Großschönau, which isn’t just a Local History Museum — but one that details the importance of the textile industry to the town.

Guys, I know you don’t care about that kind of stuff. So, it’s off to the Motorcycle veterans and Technology Museum Großschönau. Everyone’s bound to love the Folklore and Walter Mill Museum Village, though.

Just as I’m sure everyone will love hiking (or biking) through the nearby Zitterau Mountains. In fact, the entire area around Großschönau is criss-crossed by bike trails throughout the multi-country, multi-state region.

Großschönau is lucky enough to have everything anyone and everyone can enjoy — no matter what its name is, or what you call it. Come to think of it, I’ll call it “a gosh darn good time.”

Gochsheim — Traditional Imperial Village

November 16th, 2013

Free, then not free. Bavarian, then not Bavarian. I gotta tell ya, Gochsheim really had me confused. And because I love you all so much, I decided to pass that confusion around to you. ;-)

You know I’m just pulling your leg, but how was Gochsheim free then not free? Well, back in 1234 the town was given the title of an Imperial Village, or as it’s called in German, Reichsdorf. All that means is the town was free from any rule by any governing “lord” except the Emperor himself — and remained that way for more than 400 years.

And how was it Bavarian, then not Bavarian? That’s sort of easy to explain; for four years (1810-1814) the town didn’t belong to Bavaria — to whom it did, I’m not sure; so if you know — can you let me know?

Anyway, back to the issue at hand — which is to tell you about Gochsheim. I think the best place to learn more than anything I could tell you would be at the Reichsdorf Museum in the village of Kirchgaden. Seems only appropriate that an Imperial Village would have an Imperial Village Museum.

Other sites to see around this Lower Franconian town (which also lies around the Franconian Wine Land, BTW) would be on Mönchgasse 19 to the Apostles House, which is a very pretty Renaissance building from 1612. The Schwebheimer Tor, the last remaining gate from its four medieval originals; and the Church of St. Michael (b. 1511), that’s now a Lutheran one.

While many of you might be happy to come to see these historical sites, many of you might be more excited to come for its annual festivities. The Kirchweih is one of the biggest — dating all the way back to late 1640s.

Carnival in February is always a big deal, as is the annual Harvest Festival (1st weekend of October), and the Advent Market (early December). Foodies might love the Bread Market instead, held between May and October on the first weekend of the month.

There’s nothing to be confused about — yummy food and a good time is yummy food and a good time, right? And I love passing that along to you as well.

Rodenberg — Small Town, Big In Castles

November 16th, 2013

Who’d have thought that, in some little town tucked away in the southwestern part of Lower Saxony, you’d find the best place to see everything that epitomizes the romantic (and historic) side of Germany? A place where the Celts and Saxons once lived…

What town is this, and what makes it so special? It’s Rodenberg, and phew… where do I start on telling you what makes it great?

Let’s start with the castles, considering there’s a whole slew of them to be found here. But first, let me start off by saying that Rodenberg is part of a Collective Municipality of the same name, that increases its population and area size by more than double.

Hmm, more castles that way, I guess. ;-)

The Schloss Rodenberg isn’t just a castle, by the way. Nope, it’s also an outdoor museum, where you can learn about the castle’s (and the town’s) history. Only part of the walls remain at the Heisterburg, but what do you expect — it was built in the 900s.

What other castles await? The Wasserschloss Münchhausen (built 1561); Hammerstein Castle (b. 1590); the Weser Renaissance styled Wasserschloss Hülsede (b. 1529); Lauenau Castle (b. 1519); Meysenburg Castle (from 1499); and Schloss Schwedesdorf that was built in 1377.

Wow, that’s a whole bunch of castles, ain’t it? And please, I haven’t even gotten to Rodenberg’s churches — like St. Luke’s in the village of Lauenau, St. Giles (built in the 15th century) in Hülsede, and the most unique 12th century stone church in Apelern. This last one might look severe, though it’s stunning in its simplicity.

Yikes, I almost forgot all about the Nature Park Walterbachtal. Head on over to the villages of Messenkamp and Pohle (with less than a thousand residents) to experience the best nature area in town. Hülsede lies along the Diester Sünteltal if you want the full Rodenberg outdoor experience.

What’s even better is you can experience the best of Rodenberg’s events while you’re here, too. The Tanz in den Mai (Dance into May) is a fun way to enjoy the warm weather, while the Christmas Market (on the 3rd weekend of Advent) ends the year with good cheer and shopping.

Sounds like just a good a place as any to end your time in Rodenberg, don’t you agree?

Beilstein — A Proud Castle Surrounded By Vineyards

November 16th, 2013

Color me different, as while I’m a huge history buff; I think more in terms of history than just wars and battle dates — although the town of Beilstein has seen its fair share during the Thirty Years’ War and Nine Years War (just to name a few). No, I prefer to think about how people lived, not how war and famine and plague ravaged a town.

Ohh, that seems like a bit harsh of a start here in Beilstein. And this graceful town on the Württemberger Weinstraße is anything but harsh. It’s quiet and simple, a place that holds an annual Wine Festival at the end of every July. It’s a place where rolling hills are decorated with Riesling grapes when the Bottswartal Marathon runners come barreling through.

What really impresses me is how these runners don’t just stop dead to stare at Burg Hohenbeilstein. Really, how do you not just totally stop what you’re doing to gape at an 11th century castle?

Hmm, I guess that’s dedication.

Speaking of dedication, I’m totally dedicated on telling you about the Hohenbeilstein Castle. Its origins date back to the year 1080, making it just shy of a good thousand years old. Much of what you see comes from around the 13th/14th century, which is amazing since the castle was destroyed some 500 years ago. Parts of it were rebuilt; and turned into a restaurant for your enjoyment.

Medieval castles and food… I’m so giddy with happiness I might just run a marathon. ;-)

Who am I kidding, that’s not happening. I’d miss out on the rest of Beilstein’s twelve districts, not getting to see the Anna Kirche (1470), its half-timbered Town Hall, the 17th century wine press, or its Magdalene Church that’s not a Romanesque church anymore — but a youth hostel.

Oh goody, you’ll need a place to stay if you’re going to tackle any one of Beilstein’s sixteen hiking and biking trails.

I’m just glad I got to see where folks live and lived in Beilstein — in between glasses of wine that is. ;-)

Bispingen — Simple Pleasures In The Lüneburg Heath

November 14th, 2013

Hah, people today think they’re so smart and sophisticated. We think we got that “know it all” way of thinking, often wondering how people managed to survive centuries ago without electricity and modern-day machinery.

Okay, so some of that managed to help build the totally upside down Verrückte Haus in the town of Bispingen — but that doesn’t mean modern day man has the monopoly on building smarts.

Throughout all of Bispingen’s nine villages you’ll find a whole bunch of steep-pitched roofs atop many of its charming cottages. Why? Because it helps to keep the snow from building up, that’s why.

It might mean nothing to you about the whole snow thing while you’re here in the middle of summer; but they sure do make for a pretty village.

Bispingen’s cottages aren’t the only great architecture you’ll find. The Ole Kerk, or as it’s formally known, the Alte Feldsteinkirche, is a feat of 14th century building.

Much of Bispingen’s history of architecture and culture can be learned over at Dat Ole Huus, an outdoor museum. The place itself is a piece of history, built in a Low German style.

Speaking of Low German, Bispingen’s Plattdüütsch (Low German) name is Bissen.

Nevermind that, there’s still much to see in Bissen. Bispingen. Whatever… ;-)

The place lies along the Lüneburg Heath, so there’s plenty of hiking trails (even the Way of St. James comes through) for anyone interested. Biking is a really big activity, with a whole bunch of marked trails ranging from a mere 16km to a staggering 250km (the Wümme-Radweg).

Either way you look at it, the scenery is fantastic — even if all you do is walk along the banks of the Luhe River. Or, just gaze at the natural landscape from the Wilseder Berg, the highest point around.

Still, you’ll want to do more than that. You have ancient Bronze Age tumuli (graves) to find, wolves & bears to see at the Wildpark Lüneburger Heide, and party at Bispingen’s Erntefest in early September.

A unique place in Bispingen is the Snow Dome, an indoor ski and snowboarding area that’s super fun for the whole family. The simple Nordic Walking trails are just as good for family-friendly entertainment, as well.

You know, sometimes sophistication is totally overrated. Isn’t it nice to go back to simple pleasures? Even better if you can do it in a place like Bispingen. :-)

Ottersweier — Party Town Between Rhine And Black Forest

November 13th, 2013

I have to say there was a lot to remember about the town of Ottersweier to remember, but one of the biggest things to stand out in memory was that it was said to be relatively calm, but it has a pulse.

Didn’t that turn out to be the truth? No sleepy village for this Baden town, that’s for sure.

It looks like a typical rural town of some four villages, a place of just over 6,000 people spread out over thirty square kilometers in the Rastatt District filled with open fields, meadows and fruit trees.

Yet Ottersweier likes to let its hair down for a rarin’ good time when its festival time. Late April/early May is when most of the festivities for the year kick off, starting with the Maifest on April 30th/May 1st. This is followed by the Klosterhoffest just about a week (or so) later.

Ottersweier was once the site of a “convent” created by the Dowager Duchess Maria Victoria who established a school here for girls in the 18th century. Duchess Maria Victoria lived in what’s now Ottersweier’s Town Hall, just so you know.

Back to the festivals… May is also the time for Ottersweier’s Frühlingsfest, or Spring Festival and Music Festival, followed by the Antoniusfest and St. Johannes Pfarrfest that are both in June.

July has the Heckenfest over at the Grillplatz, with the Summer Festival right behind it in August. Don’t let the cooler weather fool you, there’s stuff going on in September (like the Autumn Festival); and December’s quite busy with all the Advent and Christmas celebrations going on.

Doesn’t leave you much time to get out on all the hiking and cycling trails in the Black Forest now, does it? It will if you make time for it. Make sure you suck in as much countryside as possible.

Oh, I said that Ottersweier’s “pulse” was the thing to stand out most in memory — but there’s no way I could ever forget anything about the Black Forest, could you?

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