Essingen (Württemberg) — 4 Castles, 1 Swabian Alb

May 30th, 2012

I’m biased about Baden-Württemberg because of towns like Essingen (Württemberg). For real, who wouldn’t (couldn’t) love a town in the northern part of the Swabian Alb?

Show me someone who doesn’t love the Swabian Alb, and I’ll show you someone with ice water in their veins. ;-)

Inasmuch as the Alb is a big draw for coming to Essingen, so are the castles. Too bad you can’t see the inside of the Woellwarth’sche Schloss (what a name) that was built in 1555 — but you’re more than welcome to enjoy the Schlosspark.

The other castle around Essingen is the Burgruine Lauterburg, with a castle church no less. It was built way back in 1125, and stood until a fire destroyed it more than 600 years later.

The Upper Castle, or Schloss Dorotheenhof, isn’t any where near as old as the others. But, it is said to be older than its 1696 construction.

Castles don’t end here, you’ve got one more: Schloss Hohenroden that was built in 1293. Yes, I’m aware that its current structure isn’t from that period of the Middle Ages and that it doesn’t look like a castle, but it is one nonetheless.

A few of Essingen’s churches are also from the town’s medieval days. St. Quirinus Church might have started as a simple chapel (a Romanesque one), but it is believed a church has stood on this spot for more than thirteen centuries.

Over at the Church of St. Mary you’ll see paintings from the Gothic period, which are about 600 years old.

You realize this is a mere drip in time considering that the rock formations in the Felsenmeer and Wental are thousands and thousands of years older than anything built here in Essingen.

I dare you to hit up one of the many hiking trails through here, or along the Weiherwiesen (a nature reserve area), and tell me you don’t like it. Just remember to stop by the sorce of the Rems River — which eventually feeds the Neckar — and smattered by little bridges.

To hell with it… I’m in for the food. The Sausage Roasts and the Pretzel Festival (October) are a good start. And the Harvest Festival (Sept) and Fall Festival (Oct) are great for eating too.

Of course, the obligatory Christmas Market is great for mulled wine — and the Summer Festival (July) is fun too. Don’t let it be said that Germans don’t know to throw a good party. ;-)

For anyone who’s gonna whine about a few extra calories — I don’t wanna hear it. You could easily bike along the 59km Bicycle Trails, or try skiing in the winter.

Nevermind, I probably won’t hear you whining on the ski slopes anyway. ;-)

Eberdingen — Fit For Royalty On A Serf’s Budget

May 30th, 2012

Germany might not be a kingdom, dukedom, or any other -dom nowadays, but it used to be. What’s this got to do with the price of a Porsche in nearby Stuttgart, you ask?

Nothing and everything. You see, Eberdingen might just be a simple town over by Ludwigsburg in Württemberg — but it sure was fit for royalty.

You see, Eberdingen is the final resting place of a Celtic prince buried thousands of years ago. You can see his prehistoric grave mound, but you can also visit the Hochdorf Celtic Museum with all sorts of artifacts.

Sound interesting? Of course it does — so you’re more than welcome to see the display every day but Mondays when they’re closed.

Also in Hochdorf (which is one of Eberdingen’s villages) is the Church of St. Michael. The building that’s standing in front of you is from 1582, built over the one that was here since the year 811.

There are two churches to St. Martin. The one in Nussdorf is the younger one (1643), while the other was built in 1520. Either way, they’re both old. So is Nussdorf Castle, come to think of it.

I’m not sure if you’ll be thinking of anything while you’re out traversing along the hiking trails of the Heckengäu. This is a prime real estate before the Northern Black Forest steals the show — so take lots of pictures.

What’s great too is Eberdingen is close to many other sites in the area. Kloster Maulbronn isn’t too far, neither is Ludwigsburg Palace, or the Festung Hohenasperg.

Just make sure you’ve come back in time to party at Eberdingen’s Celtic Sunday (May), Mostfest (all about gardening, grilling, and all things good for you), Barfest (April), Summer Festival (early July), and Christmas Tree Festival in December.

If you’ve spent too many Euros, don’t worry — it’ll only cost you just 1 to get into Eberdingen’s pool. A small price to pay for a day of fun from May to September.

Good thing you don’t have to have the coffers of royalty to pay for. ;-)

Eichendorf — Loads Of Festivals And Churches In 119 Villages

May 30th, 2012

Who’s the brainiac that came up with the town name of Eichendorf? How could you possibly have chosen that from all 119 villages, hamlets, and farms that are all now part of “Oak Village” (that’s the English translation, if you haven’t guessed) on the Vils River?

The only bad part is that there isn’t enough time to see all 119 villages. Drats, I’m gonna have to come back in my next life as a resident of this Lower Bavarian town — just so I can do it all. ;-)

What I did managed to find is a long-gone castle in the village of Adldorf. The 20th century one that replaced it, isn’t quite the same thing — but it’s still worth seeing. As is the Immaculate Conception Church that’s a Baroque one from 1736, with a chapel that’s got art from four centuries (15th – 18th).

Over in Dornach there is the Pfarrkirche St. Laurentius. Although it was initially built in the 1200s, this building is what’s known as Late-Gothic architecture from the 16th century.

As impressive as these churches are, it is the St. Martin Church that everyone comes to see. St. Martin’s was built in 1466, but over the years it saw a Baroque renovation and its altar is done with a Rococo design.

Pretty doesn’t quite cover it.

When it comes to pretty the hiking trails found in the hamlet of Pitzling come to mind. Pitzling has always been small, but don’t let its size stop you from enjoying it.

When it comes to enjoying yourself think of nothing else but Eichendorf’s festivals and markets. The biggie is the 4-day Parkfest in mid-July, but there’s also the Maimarkt, the Pumpkin Festival in September, the Martins Market in November, followed by the Christmas Market in December.

This is all in addition to Eichendorf’s Weekly Market that kicks off every Saturday from 8am to noon.

You know, with all this shopping and partying it doesn’t matter who the brainiac was that named Eichendorf — they were right on the money!

Metelen — Within The Münsterland, Close To Awesome Castles

May 30th, 2012

I don’t know about you, but I get all excited when I hear about awesome towns within the Münsterland. This is where you’ll find towns like Steinfurt, Ochtrup, and Horstmar — and today, Metelen, along the Vechte River.

Just so you know, this is way up here in northern NRW. Heck, you’ve almost made it to Lower Saxony!

What’s really great about Metelen is how close it is to some awesome German castles, like the Wasserburg Welbergen (a 13th century medieval one, no less) whose formal gardens belong to the European Garden Heritage Network.

Gardening is big here, by the way, offering 25km guided Garden Bike Tours.

Back to the castles, though. Schloss Burgsteinfurt is nearby, and said to be the oldest within the state. Too bad you can only see the outside — and it doesn’t have any towers or turret, but it is lovely enough to have earned it a stop on the 100-Schlösser-Route. Pretty sure its Gatehouse and moat have something to do with that.

Now that you’ve seen that, time to move on to Metelen’s Stiftskirche Sts. Cornelius & Cyprian (12th century), and the Stiftskirche Schatzkammen, a 16th century built over an older one.

For a night out, the Old Church Welbergen holds Choral Evenings; and Jazz events and outdoor concerts are other cultural activities around town.

Metelen’s Vogelpark (Bird Park) is a treat, with some 75 different species of the flying creatures, as well as having its own zoo.

You’ll even find two museums here: one being the Railway Museum or Bahnhofsmuseum Metelen Land (we Germans love trains for some reason), and the Mühlenmuseum (Mill Museum).

Germans love biking too; and one 40km cycle route leads you around to many 17th/18th century farmsteads.

Isn’t it understandable why I get all excited to tell you about towns within the Münsterland? :-)

Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg Is Bigger And Better Than Its Name

May 30th, 2012

It’s quite fitting that the town of Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg is as big as its name. There are some 52 villages and hamlets that make up the town that’s said to be in “the Heart of Bavaria” — in “the Heart of Europe” even.

Long before all these villages became today’s Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg, the area was famous for its Mallersdorf Abbey. It was built by the Franciscans way back in 1109, and is most noted for its more modern Rococo decor. Its Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) of St. Johannes is also one of the monastery’s must-sees.

The other must-sees in Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg are its castles. Schloss Oberellenbach might be private, but don’t let that stop you from admiring its 18th century exterior. I wonder what the original 13th century version looked like…

Schloss Oberhaselbach is also from the 18th century, but this one got a moat that surrounds it on three sides. And the Zollhof Pfaffenberg might have had its start in the Middle Ages, but it get an overhaul in the 19th century.

The last of Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg’s “sites” in the traditional sense would be the Jüdische Ehrenmal, a monument to 67 Jewish people who died here during a Buchenwald Death March.

Sorry, I did forget to mention the Bonifatius Statue Westen, and the Marienbrunnen. The former is a sculpture that serves as a reminder for when Saint Boniface, Willibald and Suidger met in 740 A.D.; while the latter is where the annual Advent Christmas Market is held.

Oh, which brings me to Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg’s festivals. The private brewery, Stöttner, is always holding some kind of event or another, but there’s also the Weinfest (Wine Festival) in September too.

September is also the month for the Pfarrfest (Church Festival) and Herbstmarkt (Autumn Festival). May is another festive month starting with the Maypole on the first of the month, followed by the Florianfest.

What else? There are a number of Summer Festivals in July and August; and the year ends with Winter Festival in December.

Ugh, I almost left out the Pfaffenberger Volksfest that’s held on the first weekend of August. October’s busy too with the Hoffest, Kastanienfest, and Herbstfest.

With all this going on, whose got time for the guided Herb Walks, or trying to tackle the Labertal Bicycle Path? Make time is all I can say. ;-)

Now that I think about it, Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg’s got so much going on that the place is actually bigger than its name!

Franconian Forest (Frankenwald) — A Way Of Life For Over Forty

May 29th, 2012

The Franconian Forest, or Frankenwald in German, is more than just an extensive network of hiking trails; more than just beech and fir trees; more than just a small mountain range that runs from the Fichtelgebirge to the Thuringian Forest covering 925 square kilometers of northern Bavaria (more specifically Franconia, hence its name) going right up into Thuringia.

How much more? Forty-something towns and villages on top of everything else; making the Franconian Forest a way of life.

That’s not a bad thing.

Ever been to Marktleugast? No? It’s found within the Franconian Forest Nature Park. Pretty, right? Even better that Marktleugast has a “Pilgrimage Season” that runs from May to October, to see its 12th century church.

Did you know this is one of the oldest pilgrimage sites in Germany? I didn’t either, until just now.

Without even leaving the Franconian Forest Nature Park you’ll find yourself in Wirsberg. It’s easy to get lost (in your own head — not in the middle of nowhere) as you walk along the ruins of the Heilingskirche.

Another little charmer in the Frankenwald is Stadtsteinach, sitting right along the Steinach Gorge, and has a charming historic city center with its own Local History Museum.

Just to the east of Kronach (which we’ll be hitting up next) is Marktrodach with its Flößermuseum (Rafting Museum).

Don’t be so shocked, the Franconian Forest isn’t a desert — the Saale River flows through it (and others), so rafting is not unheard of, ya know.

Our next town of Kronach lies on a number of scenic routes — the Bier- und Burgenstraße, the Burgenweg, and the Frankenweg for starters. Everyone wants to see all of the town’s framework houses, its Fortress Rosenberg, or play along the Toboggan Runs (one for summer and one for winter, nice!). And for the tired muscles walk through the Kneipp area to get it all freshen up.

Another town with yet another scenic route meeting up with the Franconian Forest is Steinbach am Wald on the Rennsteig trail. Which is not to be confused with Schwarzenbach am Wald, where you’ll find the Döbraberg, the highest part of the Frankenwald at like 794 meters above sea level.

I digress, Steinbach is one of those towns that really flourished in the Middle Ages. Its fortified church of St. John the Baptist dates to around the 12th century — and today it is known for its Fair that takes place on the 2nd weekend of every July.

This “second to last” town of Ludwigsstadt is one of my favorites. And not just because it’s got a medieval castle (Burg Lauenstein that’s now a museum), and a Castle Festival (every two years on the 4th weekend of June).

But because… well, OK it’s the castle. Don’t you just stop there though — visit Ludwigsstadt’s Slate Museum, Villa Falkenstein, and party at its Village Festival every September at the town located on the Thuringian border.

On the northwestern edge of the Frankenwald is Wurzbach, home to the Nature Park Tourist Office. Wait… maybe I should have done this town first instead of last?

Nevermind, the Franconian Forest is wonderful no matter how you do it . Thank Heaven they’ve replanted so many trees after all the deforestation back in the 19th and 20th centuries, huh? Otherwise, I’d have had to write this as the Former Franconian Forest or talk about the “Once Fabulous” Frankenwald Hochstraße.

No, it’s no laughing matter. Thankfully, Germany loves its forests — and we all get to enjoy great, healthy places like the Franconian Forest.

Grünhain-Beierfeld — Museums, Churches, Ruins, Ore Mountains

May 29th, 2012

When it comes to the town of Grünhain-Beierfeld, there are, in fact three villages that make up the town that borders the town of Schwarzenberg. I am, however, not going to split hairs on this technicality.

How is it even possible that I say (type) this stuff with a straight face. I’m German, of course I’m going to concern myself with technicalities. ;-)

In all reality, it doesn’t matter if there are a bazillion towns that make up Grünhain-Beierfeld — it’s pretty wonderful. Especially if you’ve decided to tackle a hike in the Ore Mountains, or the Erzgebirge for the German speaking crew.

If you walk far enough you’ll find the original wall of the Kloster Grünhain. This used to be one seriously powerful Cistercian Monastery, but the ugliness of the Thirty Years’ War led to its ultimate destruction.

The Klosterpark has the City Museum, and come Tuesdays to see a demonstration on how they once made pottery. Now there’s something you don’t see everyday. ;-)

Another one of Grünhain-Beierfeld’s museums is the Heimat- und Winterberg, where you can see what it was like to live around here back in the 1800s. You just gotta do it on Thursdays as that’s the only day of the week they’re open.

Over in the third village of the unmentioned town of Waschleithe you’ll find the Dudelskirche. That is, if you dare. You see, the Dudelskirche is a church ruin that’s said to be cursed. I don’t know about all that, but the church was struck by lightning — so you be the judge.

One place that is still standing is the little white chapel looking Sts. Peter & Paul Church in the village of Beierfeld. As is the St. Nikolai Church in Grünhain.

This all sounds like serious stuff, right? Don’t fret one bit, Grünhain-Beierfeld likes to kick back every once in a while. More often than not, considering there’s always a festival going on.

I’m sure to miss something, but let’s try… Here goes: The Straßenfest (Stree Festival) is an annual July event, as is the Summer Festival. May has the Spiegelwald Fair, while August has a 3-day Fire & Family Festival. September’s got the Musikfest Erzgebirge; October’s the Fall Festival & Fish Market; and December the Pyramidenfest and Christmas Market.

Now do you see why I wasn’t splitting hairs on Grünhain-Beierfeld’s name? Yeah, I was too busy. ;-)

Grassau — Proper Planning Needed To See It All

May 29th, 2012

Do you ever wonder why Germans plan, then plan some more, then plan even more on top of that? Ha, it’s because in order to be efficient and effective you have to have all your ducks lined up properly. How else could you manage to see the entire town of Grassau that has 31 villages?

If you don’t plan, you’ll be ping-ponging all over; maybe wind up in nearby Austria or Berchtesgaden. A total misuse of time, if you ask me. So, you gotta plan right, or you’ll miss out on all of what Grassau has to offer.

One thing it offers a lot of are festivals and markets. Even I had a hard time wrapping my head around how many there are around here.

Come May when there’s a Trödelmarkt (Flea Market), followed by a village flea market in early June, and a Village Festival and Summer Festival at the end of June.

July kicks off with an Antique Market, a Country Festival, and a Beer Festival. It isn’t over in July as there’s also a Garden Festival and the Gautrachtenfest. August is just as much fun with another Village Festival and the Rottauer Mostfest.

September starts with a Children & Family Festival, and ends with the Michaelimarkt. All this in addition to the weekly Farmers Market, on Saturdays from the end of March to the beginning of December.

In between all the festivities you can go see some of Grassau’s sites. Start at the Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt. This building was erected back in the 15th century, but a church has stood on this spot for more than a millennia.

There are a number of other churches found in Grassau that are worth seeing, like the Kriegergedächtniskapelle (what a mouthful) that has Baroque frescoes, and the St. James Church that has both Romanesque frescoes and Gothic artwork.

Wait… there’s more! The Leonhardkapelle in the village of Weiher has an annual Leonhardi Ride in October; and not to be confused with the St. Leonard Chapel (18th century) in the village of Rottau.

Rottau, by the way, won the Unser Dorf soll schöner Werden — or Our Village is Beautiful — competition back in the early 1970s. Rest assured it hasn’t lost any of its charm over the last 40 years.

All that’s left to do now is hike through the Hochmoor of the Kendlmühlfilze. This is a raised bog area, and the Moor & Peat Museum could do a whole lot better to explain this natural phenomenon better than I ever could.

I’ll just stick to planning. ;-)

Geisenhausen Likes To Party In Its 101 Villages

May 29th, 2012

OK, I’ve come to the realization that not every town is going to be all a bustle of activity. Somehow, some way, you’re going to come across a place where just everyday, normal people live, work, and play. Such is the case of the 101 villages that make up Geisenhausen in Lower Bavaria.

They do, however, like to party. Hmm, like that’s a bad thing?

It isn’t, of course. So, if you’ve arrived in Geisenhausen during one of its festivals or markets, then you’re in for a real treat.

Early in the year is the time of Carnival; and on the Monday before Ash Wednesday (usually in February) Geisenhausen rocks it with its Rosenmontagszug.

Not until late Spring, early Summer does Geisenhausen pick back up in the festival department with its 6-day Pfingstvolksfest in May(on Pentecost), followed by two Pfarrfests (in the villages of Fronleichnam and Holzhausen), and the Waldfest (Forest Festival) that are both in June.

July’s great ’cause that’s when the Summer Festivals are going full swing; and August brings on the Hallenfest. October’s the month for Geisenhausen’s Bauernmarkt, November’s got the Martinsfest, and December’s the time for the Nikolaus Market.

Have I missed any? No, I don’t think so. Off to see Geisenhausen’s gorgeous town houses right on the Marktplatz.

Wait, you’ve just partied at one of Geisenhausen’s festivals — you’d have seen those already. Better get over to the 15th century St. Martin’s Church instead. Look around, you’ll see its Gothic origins and its added much later Baroque renovations.

St. Theobald’s is the other must-see church in Geisenhausen. Did you know this old beauty acted as a Pilgrimage Church for almost four centuries, starting some time back in the 14th century?

All that’s left is go enjoy the Freibad, an outdoor pool that’s solar heated (good thinking) with all sorts of activities that’ll let you enjoy the best of Lower Bavarian sunshine.

Oh, c’mon… the beach volleyball court, football field, chess, and table tennis transcends any language barrier you might have.

Better yet, learn how to say Checkmate in German before you leave home. ;-)

Gangkofen — 171 Lower Bavarian Ways To Say Wonderful

May 29th, 2012

Holy cow, I can’t believe that the Lower Bavarian town of Gangkofen is just over 108 square kilometers, made up of 171 (!) villages and hamlets. Tell me if I did the math wrong, but wouldn’t that mean on average that each village is less than 1 square kilometer?

While you check to see if I got my arithmetic correct, I’ll tell you all about Gangkofen. Deal?

OK then, let’s start at the Klosterbräu Seemannshausen. At one time it was a monastery, more specifically from 1255 to 1802. Now it’s a brewery with a beer garden.

I will not keep going with the beer, I will keep going with the religious aspect of Gangkofen. And with this many shires, it isn’t surprising that you’ll find about just as many village churches.

These are but a few of the many that are worth mentioning. The St. George Chapel came along in the 16th century, the Sanctuary St. Salvator was a 15th century pilgrimage church, the Loreto Church was a mid-17th century design, the Church of Saints Simon & Thaddäus started as a simple Romanesque chapel but got a 19th century overhaul, and the 34 meter high tower of St. Vitus is over 500 years old.

However, it is the St. Martin Church (a late-Gothic design), built in 1450 in the village of Dirnaich, that is the show-stopper. Simply beautiful.

For just as many churches as you’ll find here, that’s about how many festivals they got. The Spring Festival is an April staple, followed by the Peter & Paul Market in June, the Arts & Craft Market in July, and the Hoffest and Medieval Days in August.

September is the month for the Harvest Market and Drescherfest, and October has the Kirta-Markt. November is for shopping at the Elisabethmarkt, and December for the obligatory Christmas Market.

Of course, the big winner in the festival department is the Grangkofener Marktplatzfest in June.

You know, with great festivals like these, and this many churches to see — who cares if I did the math right. Oh wait… I’m German… of course I do care if I did it right. ;-)

preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload preload