I’m here to tell you that the entire length of the Werra River can be found totally within Germany. That’s right, Germany gets to enjoy all 300 kilometers of it, without sharing any of it with any other place.

Color me selfish. Well, not entirely — I’m sharing the Werra with you, aren’t I? ;-)

The source of the Werra starts in the Thuringian Forest in southern Thuringia, near the small town of Eisfeld, in the Eselsberg and Bleßberg mountains.

Speaking of Eisfeld, you might think the Eisfelder Schloss is kinda old, since it was built in the 13th century, but that’s nothing compared to the older one that was here beforehand. Eisfeld is also famous for its summer toboggan track (called Sommerrodelbahn), and every Whit Tuesday (right around Pentecost) there’s a huge Kuhschwanzfest (you don’t want me to translate that one ;-).

Of course, this is along the border of the Thuringian Forest, so maybe you’d like a hike before we follow the Werra someplace else.

The Werra flows westward towards 1200-year-old Veilsdorf, a small porcelain producing town with two beautiful churches that look like twins (St. Veitskirche & Trinitatiskirche).

On it goes to Hildburghausen, a town that’s steeped deep in history. It started simple enough, as a Frankish settlement, but then went on to be a vital town along the old salt routes. So that’s how they bankrolled the Royal Palace (built 1705) and the City Church, huh?

You’re still in Thuringia as you make your way down the Werra to Meiningen — just not by motorboat. Sorry, only the last 80-odd kilometers of the river is navigable.

Don’t sweat it, you don’t need a boat to enjoy Meiningen. You can’t take the vessel into the Schloss Elisabethenburg (with its four museums), its Parish Church of St. Johann, or to see all the framework houses.

Bad Salzungen‘s location on the Werra brought it prosperity — and spa goers. The salt springs make for easing tired, achy muscles; and the salt Gradierwerke (from the 14th century) made for big money.

You can enjoy the salt springs or Burg Frankenstein anytime, but the City Festival is held only once a year.

From here the Werra flows up towards Berka (Werra). There’s a big hydroelectric power plant using the Werra’s water to provide power to the town’s populace, as well as electricity to the many half-timbered houses, the Alte Stern (an inn where Martin Luther as well as Kings and Rulers slept), the Old Brewery, and the 15th century church.

This is a really good place to rent a canoe to really enjoy the river. Besides, from here the Werra twists and turns (serpentines, if you will) as it makes its way towards the Hessian town of Eschwege.

Eschwege enjoys not only the river, but a twice weekly market (Wed. & Sat.), as well as a Midsummer Festival (1st Sunday in July). At the end of August (could be early September, though) is the WerraMan — a swimming, biking, running competition that ain’t for the faint of heart.

No special date is really needed to see the former synagogue, the Botanical Garden, or to chill out at the recreational Werratalsee area.

After splashing at the Werratalsee, it’s time to relax a bit more in one of the spa centers in posh Bad Sooden-Allendorf.

The last town in Hesse is Witzenhausen, where they choose an annual Cherry Queen at the Cherry Fair. Too bad it ain’t gonna be me, so I’ll go see Burg Ludwigstein, the half-timbered houses, and the historic Town Hall in this university town instead.

From here the Werra crosses into Lower Saxony at the town of Hann. Münden, which is at the southern most part of the state. Forget that — Hann. Münden lies along the Reinhardswald, the Bramwald, and the Kaufunger Forest.

Too much nature? It’s OK, check out all the timber-frames along the Kirchplatz, the 13th century St. Blasius Church, the Weser-Renaissance Town Hall, or stroll along the Stadtmauer imagining how folks in the Middle Ages were fighting like crazy.

It’s here in Hann. Münden that the Werra flows — together with the Fulda River — into the Weser.

Oh, so that means the water from the Werra’s tributaries like the Schleuse, Hasel, Ulster, and Wehre also flow into the Weser. That just sounds like more of Germany to see before it all finally flows into the North Sea.

Wait… that means Germany doesn’t get to keep the Werra all to itself. Guess we’re not selfish after all. ;-)

My trusty Roman historian buddy, Tacticus, knew all about the Havel River, he wrote about it — just as he did about German history a few thousand years ago.

Sorry, that would be the history of Germania; and another story altogether. So, I digress about the Havel. This river flows all over the place in the East, flowing south at first then going westward into the Elbe.

And there’s certainly a lot of ground to cover from where it starts in the Mecklenburg Lakes near the Bornsee at the Müritz National Park, to where it joins the Elbe at the end.

FYI, although much of the Havel is navigable, not all of it allows for motorized boating.

The Havel starts kind of unassuming, without much fanfare (i.e., big spring, or anything) near the village of Ankershagen, to the north of Wesenberg.

One of the biggest towns along the Havel is Fürstenberg (Havel), which is located at the Upper Havel Waterway.

What does Fürstenberg have for sightseeing? Well, it’s got a bunch of half-timbered houses, a castle, a moated castle, and the Monastery Himmelpfort.

The Ravensbrück Concentration Camp was located here, but I’d rather know it for the Copenhagen-Berlin Cycle Route that comes along this way.

We’re still headed south when we get to Zehdenick, and it’s famous Havel Bridge/Sluice (that would be a lock). Come see what the land lubbers know. Zehdenick’s got a Cistercian Monastery ruin, a pretty City Church, half-timbered houses, and a Bismarck tower.

Our next town on the Havel brings us on the Oranier Route and the German Ceramics Route in the town of Oranienburg. If you have time for only one thing, make it to the Baroque Oranienburg Castle.

It’s Germany’s posh capital city of Berlin that the Havel reaches at this point. Who would dream of leaving before seeing the Berliner Dom, the Brandenburg Gate, or the UNESCO’s World Heritage Site, the unique Museum Island?

I know I wouldn’t.

After departing the ultra cosmopolitan Berlin, the Havel flows towards Spandau and the river’s main tributary — the Spree. Surely you’ve heard of Spandau?

No? It’s got this incredibly magnificent citadel with an old Jewish Cemetery. And it was where the infamous Spandau prison was located. The Berlin-Spandau Canal meets the Havel at this point along the way.

Now it’s time to go west towards Potsdam, most famous not because of the Potsdam Conference (where those cheeky Allied Powers carved up Germany at the end of World War II), but because of its Sanssouci Palace.

You can even visit a real KGB prison here in Potsdam — a place you wouldn’t have wanted to be during the Cold War years, that’s for sure.

A boat is needed to get to the next town on the Havel. I mean, in the middle of the Havel since it’s an island. The Island and town of Werder (Havel) doesn’t have that many residents, but the ones that do live here are quite proud of their wines and their stunning church.

Oh wow, look… orchids! I almost forgot about those. And I almost left without a mention of Werder’s Tree Blossom Festival in May.

From here we’re going to Rathenow, which runs along the Wolzensee. This town has a number of churches (St. George, St. Andrew, St. Mary), a Jewish cemetery, and a tower that bears Otto von Bismarck‘s name.

I don’t believe we’ve made it to Havelberg already. You go on to see the town’s St. Lawrence Church, its Cathedral, and its former synagogue — while I’m going to set up camp at the local campground for us.

From here the Havel becomes the Elbe River, where it ultimately goes to the North Sea. And interestingly enough, the Havel is the only river to start out in the east of Germany to flow into this sea — all others go to the Baltic.

Over the last 325 kilometers there’s been trivia, big towns and little villages, and other waterways like the Oder-Havel Canal, and passed other rivers such as the Rhin (a 125km river that’s one of the Havel’s biggest tributaries).

I’m sure you can see at this point the Havel is pretty special — and understand why Tacticus wrote about this beloved river. Hell, I almost can’t stop writing about it either. ;-)

Bon jour, welcome to Gersheim. Was that French? Spoken in Germnay? Yeah, well, if you lived right on the French border — you’d be parlez vous Francais-ing yourself. Such as the case of the town of Gersheim in the Saarland. ;-)

The partnership between France and Germany in Gersheim (and Germany as a whole, actually) extends beyond just some geo-polticial map. There is the European Culture Park Bliesbruck-Reinheim.

Oh wait ’til you see this. One-hundred acres of Celtic tombs (one of a Queen, no less) and Roman ruins including villas. Extraordinary to say the least.

Which is what you could say about the Museum für dörfliche Alltagskultur (Museum of Rural Culture), where they have tens of thousands of items on display at the old farmhouse. Which you can see, so long as its the third Sunday of the month.

Got a little time on your hands? Call ahead to the Eiskeller or Ice Cellar, where they’ll give you a guided tour of this underground area that was used as far back as Roman times. Today it’s a winter roosting site for bats, so visits are only available from May to August.

Funny, that’s a wonderful time to visit Gersheim’s Grillhütten, or grill huts. Ahh, a picnic never tasted so wonderful surrounded by the German and French countryside.

Afterwards a walk around the Orchid Area is a splendid idea; and where you can learn all about the 25,000 known species of the plant. Too bad not all of them are found here, but a lesson in other flora and fauna is found at the Spohns Haus — dedicated to all sorts of organic biodiversity.

What the heck does that even mean? In my world it means come see St. Mark’s Church, which has been around since 800 A.D. And the St. Martin Church, built in 1350.

Before you say anything — I know that’s not what it really means, I was just being funny. Trying to, anyway ;-)

Bad jokes aside, I really think you’ll like the cycling and hiking trails through the Saarland. Don’t go too far, otherwise you’ll find yourself in Zweibrücken (some 20km away). And you wouldn’t want to miss out on all the festivities at Corpus Christi, the Theater Weeks in the beginning part of the year, and the Trofeo Karlsberg — a six event bicycle race for youths.

And it doesn’t matter what language you cheer in for your favorites. Uhhhh, Go Germany! ;-)

The day that Germany ceases to amaze me is the day I totally give up on life. Yup, that’s me — the German flag waver, living all things German.

My point is, that towns like Großröhrsdorf in eastern Saxony have conditioned me this way.

How so? Despite years of war, plague, and even Soviet occupation, the town, located just 22km east of the eternal city of Dresden, has transformed itself to a place of bright pink guest houses and cozy cottages.

Is it so wrong to love these little hamlets and villages where you’ll find small country inns that have beer gardens tucked neatly away within? Is it wrong to get a little giddy at grabbing an ice cream at a “Milk Bar” as you stroll along half-timbered houses from centuries ago?

No, I didn’t think so either. ;-)

And always a big thanks for mentioning those framework houses. Großröhrsdorf’s Local History Museum is located within on, and well worth the couple of Euro entrance fee to learn more. On the weekends during Advent the museum’s doll collection is all decorated so pretty for Christmas.

Hungry? Good thing you’re here, ’cause that’s one thing you won’t ever be. All sorts of restaurants and cafes are found all over. The Ratskeller (located right on the Rathausplatz) serves not only hearty German cuisine but Danish dishes too.

And if you’re hanging out at Wallroda Lake you don’t have to go far for a nosh, as there’s a restaurant, cafe, and beer garden right at the Lux Oase camping and leisure park.

Lakes are not your thing? It’s OK, the Massenei-Bad outdoor swimming pool (open May to September) might be the thing you want. It’s solar-heated to make the water all comfy for ya, as well as having a wading pool, a water slide, water cannons for fun, and even a jumping tower.

Watch out below!

Yikes, I thing I got some water on my computer. ;-)

After drying off, I’m out to see the 17th century Baroque Church and the 20th century Rathaus (look, Art Nouveau architecture). And lastly to see the Technical Museum before I leave.

Nah, I’m gonna take another running leap from the pool’s jumping tower. S-P-L-A-S-H! :-)

A big hearty thanks goes out to the people who designed the German Fairy Tale Road, for without them places like Großalmerode might get passed on by without a second glance.

Which would be a shame, by the way.

Two things really stand out here in Großalmerode. One: its beautiful countryside. And, two: eight hundred years of history. What a way to start the day, huh?

Let’s start with the historical side of Großalmerode first, as we work our way towards the Meißner-Kaufungen Wald Nature Park.

A city tour is one good idea, as this way you’ll learn all about the tales of the Brothers Grimm, including how Wilhelm had his Confirmation at the local church. Großalmerode’s Evangelical Church, BTW, is an eclectic blend of Baroque and Neo-Gothic architecture, if you’re so interested.

I’m only going to suggest going indoors one more time. This would be to the Glass & Ceramics Museum, which details the history of ceramics production to the local economy.

Now it’s time to give the outside a chance. Wouldn’t you just love the chance to see a whole bunch of half-timbered houses all at one time? Go ahead, take a couple of snapshots — I’ll wait for you.

Time to move on to the Bilsteinturm, an observation tower that’s found along one of the many hiking trails. There are a couple of hiking trails (3 actually) that might interest you, known as the Technisch-Historische Lehr- und Wanderpfad (Technology & History Trail). Oh geez, are we in love with long names…

What’s great about Großalmerode is you can take a 3, 5, or 8 day hike with a guide through the area — all the while camping out in the Kaufunger Wald and along the Gelster River.

Not me, I’m going where there’s room service. All right, at least where I can wake up to a fresh, hot cup of coffee.

Fuel up, today we’re going horseback riding, fishing, bicycling, and throwing in a game of tennis (or two) for good measure. Wait… we better stay another night — I forgot all about the mountain biking trails. And how every year Großalmerode hosts the annual Bilstein Bike Marathon in the early part of May.

This is just one event held throughout the year, the Village Festival is late June, the Ferienspiele are in early July, and in August is an annual tennis tournament.

So what if it ain’t Wimbledon? Großalmerode has the Brothers Grimm and so much more.

In order to fully appreciate Faßberg in Lower Saxony, you have to understand a bit about German history. More specifically, 20th century history.

From June 24, 1948 to May 12, 1949, the divided city of Berlin was cut off from the West’s major routes by the surrounding Soviet occupied East Germany. West Germany wasn’t having its people cut off from supplies, thus starting what became the Berlin Air Lift.

What’s this got to do with Faßberg? You know I’m going to have an answer for you — Faßberg’s Berlin Airlift Memorial. This isn’t some mere monument with the dates of this year-long issue. Some 450 flights a day took off from the town’s Air Base, which is why a C47 airplane is parked right here.

Ahh, my dear friends, the history lesson of Faßberg doesn’t end here. In 1438 the Watermill was built to process corn and other goods. Today it produces energy, as well as serving as a library, a wedding venue, and tourist office.

What other historical sites are there to see? I think the St. Lawrence Church definitely falls in that category. Despite its wooden tower, the inside is all decorated in brick and stone. A far call from its original plan back in 866 — as it was rebuilt in 1217.

Not one just to ponder the history of a place? OK, here’s the skinny on the countryside. Faßberg is located totally within the Lüneburg Heath, plenty of little farmhouses, all neatly packaged around hiking and cycling trails.

Even the Alte Friedhof (Old Cemetery) is a nice stop along the way. It is the final resting place of German painter Fritz Flebbe, and writer Felicitas Rose.

Faßberg’s Heidesee lake is another spot to enjoy the local flora and fauna, not to mention all the boaters that flock to the lake for a day of fun.

You gotta come back on land sometime, right? Make it a Friday. From 7:30am to 1pm, Faßberg holds its Weekly Market where you can buy everything from fruits to fish — all the while pondering Faßberg’s long history.

Thanks to a couple of amateur “archaeologists” the small town of Kalefeld is really on the map. Yeah, sure, it was there before, but not to the extent of what it is now. Or, what is to come. I’ll explain…

A few years ago a huge Römisches Schlachtfeld (Roman Battlefield) was found on the Harzhorn, everything from arrowheads to coins were found from around the third century A.D.

Who were the Romans fighting? None other than some Germanic Tribe that didn’t like the Romans on their “turf.”

A trip to the Tourist Office in Bad Gandersheim (go figure) can arrange for English speaking guides if you want to tour around. Regular guided tours in German are readily available.

Besides, how about going to see Kalefeld’s 19th century Church of Our Lady, a stunning Neo-Gothic church? The town’s St. James Church isn’t that old, it didn’t come along until the 20th century — but you’re always welcome, ya know. Just as you are at the Chapel of St. Ulrich.

Churches and Romans aside, I’m glad that Kalefeld has a castle too. And a proper medieval one Burg Westerhof is, I can tell you that.

It’s so nice around here that camping is just what the doctor ordered. Not only can you pitch a tent for a night under the stars, but there’s also a volleyball court and miniature golfing to have a good time. The heated outdoor swimming pool only enhances the whole open air experience.

Best to save that for after you’ve tackled the Radwanderweg Westerhof, a nice cycling trail through the Lower Saxon countryside.

It’s so easy to forget how Kalefeld was totally devastated during the Thirty Years’ War from the looks of it today. No wonder it took so long for someone to find the Römische Schlachtfeld — they’re in awe of what’s there today. ;-)

Esens touts itself as the “Home for Art and Culture.” But what it should be doing is shouting that it’s “A Seaside Health Resort That’s also a Home For Art & Culture.”

Yup, Esens borders the North Sea, so go right on ahead — mudflat hike til you’re shoes fall apart. Or, the tide comes rolling back in — whichever comes first. OK, you could just take the ferry from Langeoog instead. ;-)

Don’t you think that Esens already sounds like a good time?

Where to go from here? Let’s see… Right over on the Kirchplatz is the Holarium, a museum that’s filled with all sorts of holograms and optical illusions.

Since you’re so close to Esens’ St. Magnus Church, let’s go there. Within the church is the Turm-Museum (Tower Museum, open April to September) with all sorts of exhibits on the town — but it is not a Local History Museum.

That’s the job of the Peldemühle. Yes, you read that right — it’s a totally charming windmill.

The St. Magnus Church itself is a beautiful brick building from the 15th century — and where you’ll find the sarcophagus of a 15th century East Frisian Chieftan, Sibet Attena. He used to live in the nearby Castle Osterburg, now called Beningaburg, but today’s castle sure doesn’t look like it did in his day.

Chief Sibet might’ve been proud of his castle, maybe not so much about his grandson. He was a “pirate,” after all. OK, some say that Balthasar von Esens was a pirate, others called him a freedom fighter. Some just called him by his nickname, Junker.

Whatever your take on this historical figure, it doesn’t change the fact that Junker Balthasar’s statue stands over at one of Esens’ wells.

No one could ever call Esens’ other famous son, Theodore Thomas, a pirate. Composer, yes. Pirate, never. Mister Thomas’ claim to fame is his part in the founding of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra.

This isn’t the reason Esens is an art & cultural town. There are many cultural events going on all the time including plays, concerts, cabaret evenings, murder mystery (my favorite), and literary events. The Skulpturenweg (Sculpture Trail) also helps to keep the “Art” theme going on here.

I did forget to tell you about one last museum in Esens. The town’s former Jewish school building is now a museum on the history of Jewish culture in East Frisia. Near the old 17th century synagogue a ritual bath called a mikvah was found in recent excavations.

You know, I think I understand why Esens just says it’s a “Home for Art & Culture” — because writing that it’s “A Seaside Health Resort That’s also a Home For Art & Culture And Filled With History” is just too long — even for us Germans. ;-)

The town of Dannstadt-Schauernheim has a name that’s about as big as the town itself. Really, considering that Dannstadt-Schauernheim is not even sixteen square kilometers.

Just so you know, Dannstadt is the one that’s more populated. And combined the entire town doesn’t even have 7,000 people living here.

Founded by the Franks back in the Middle Ages, the town of Dannstadt-Schauernheim today is quite different from during their hay days. I’m pretty sure those medieval guys would appreciate a good time, just as you will during the Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival) and the Walpurgisnacht and Maifeier.

Early June is the yearly religious Pfarrfest, and the month ends with a terrific Summer Festival. Don’t worry, the drinking and dancing doesn’t end here. Mid-July brings thousands of people to the Bauernmarkt, and then the Brunnenfest (Fountain Festival) is just another reason for all sorts of merrymaking.

The fountain in the center of town, BTW, is the Ochs- und Eselbrunnen (Ox & Donkey Wells). I know, it takes a lot of imagination to discover the ox and the donkey. Still, it’s a cutesy piece of art, and it’s functional too.

Partygoing is still in full swing as the seasons turn to the Fall, as October is when Dannstadt holds its church festival (known as the Kerwe). Then come the Advent Season concerts followed by the obligatory Christmas Market.

I wouldn’t get upset if you’re not able to make it to one of Dannstadt-Schauernheim’s markets or festivals. You could take the Kunst-Tour; a tour that will take you to all of the town’s many sculptures and pieces of art. One is called the Gaudiwurm; another is known as the Mosaic Zielstreben, followed by one that looks like a stork (it’s supposed to); and then over to the Sagenbrunnen.

As you’re seeing all the art, make sure you look around at all the old buildings, many of which are located on Hauptstraße. Just so you know, there’s a 14th century church (now Protestant) at Langstraße 23, and the Town Hall is at Langstraße 25. Quite a charming spot considering the framework houses around here.

The oldest building of them all is the St. Leo der Große Church, dating back to the 11th century. And then there’s the St. Petrus Church — just a tad bit younger having been built in 1179.

You know what? Dannstadt-Schauernheim might have a name that’s as big as itself — but it’s even bigger on so much more.

I make too many jokes and references to beer when it comes to Bavaria. My sincerest wish is not to do that anymore. Thankfully, German towns like Dettelbach make it so much easier for me to keep my resolution.

How? The answer’s so simple you won’t believe it. It’s because Dettelbach is a wine town.

For real? Say you didn’t see that coming? ;-)

The sick sense of humor that makes its way around in my head is shortly silenced in this Bavarian delight. No time to crack too many corny jokes — there are too many wineries to visit.

Then after that, a guided tour around this medieval village is a must. I’d start at the Rathaus, the Town Hall building from the Middle Ages complete with its own pillory.

A pillory, by the way, is a post where they tied you up when you were a naughty, naughty boy. Or girl. ;-)

Located within the Altstadt (Old Town) is more than just the naughty post. You’ll find little lanes like Falterstraße with cobblestone sidewalks, little cafes, and all sorts of houses decorated with window boxes.

Surrounding the Altstadt is the original Stadtmauer, that used to have its own “moat.” Those enterprising medieval townsfolk — anything to keep marauders at bay, huh?

They did let the pilgrims in, though. Dettelbach even has its very own pilgrimage church, the Maria im Sand. So many, in fact, that at the Museum Dettelbach has a permanent exhibit on them.

Just don’t confuse the pilgrimage church with the Parish Church of St. Augustine, OK? And don’t confuse the Faltertor (one of the city gates) with the other city gate, the Brückentor. The former houses a crafts museum, while the latter is decorated with flower boxes and climbing ivy.

Love that look, don’t you?

I also love castles, so a hop over the Main River on the ferry will take ya to Mainsondhem and a Golf Club, and its castle.

After all this you’re bound to be hungry, so try the Muskazinen — a nutmeg tasting “cake” that looks like a cookie. Just be sure to have visited Maria im Sand first — because it’s traditionally eaten after a visit.

Would it be an assumption of my old wise-cracking ways if I suggested washing it down with a glass of beer? Oh yeah, forgot — it’s wine that’s big business around here. ;-)

Hidden within the vineyard, is the Herz-Jesu-Höhe (Sacred Heart) — a refuge for those who wish to see all the glory of the Bavarian countryside. So pretty it is around here that I could forget about making beer jokes. Thanks, Dettelbach, for making that easy.