Sögel — From Megaliths To Sumatra In The Emsland

November 1st, 2011

The town of Sögel might be a health resort town, but if you’re looking for something a bit more historical — you’ve found it, buddy!

Sögel is famous because it lies along the Straße der Megalithkultur (Route of Megalithic Culture). More than 41 prehistoric graves and mounds have been found in the area, and the Königsgrab (King’s Grave) has been called one of the most beautiful. They’re all beautiful, honestly. How could they not be, they’ve been hanging around for a few thousand years.

Speaking of beautiful, the Schloss Clemenswerth is a sight to behold. It was once a Baroque hunting lodge, but it’s spoke & wheel design are truly unique.

From the lodge’s center you can see the castle’s 8 outbuildings that were once guesthouses and farm buildings, there’s even a castle chapel where Chaupin monks still live. The complex is now a museum where anyone can visit — not just under the invitation of Clemens I, the duke who built it.

I’m a sucker for German castles, but in this case I fell in love with the Batak-Haus. No, it isn’t medieval, it isn’t Baroque, heck it isn’t even European in design. It’s Sumatran. A priest built this raised platform dwelling, and under its steep triangular roof is a museum.

Let’s see, what else does Sögel have? Oh, how about visiting its old Water Mill and the Hüvener Mühle (a windmill from 1801 that replaced a mid-16th century original)? Or, maybe you’d rather see the former Sheep Barn, a true look at Sögel’s agricultural beginnings.

Located in another barn is the Hümmlinger Teestube, or as everyone knows it: the Local History Museum. The Heimathof is another farming building, and a good way to see a real 19th century countryhouse.

It’s amazing how many millennia are spanned here in Sögel, and I can’t really think of too many other places where you can go from prehistoric megaliths to Sumatra. Can you?

Seefeld — Lakeside Camping And A Sense Of Community

November 1st, 2011

When first coming across the Upper Bavarian town of Seefeld, I thought there really isn’t too much to do. I was so wrong. Ugh, I hate when that happens. ;-)

First off, Seefeld is located along Lake Pilsen (also known as the Pilsensee). A nice lakeside location is always nice, don’t you think? See, no need to run off to the nearby Ammersee or Lake Starnberg — especially if you’re in the mood to camp out. Camping by the lake, how romantic.

I wonder how they people made out before everyone grew accustomed to such a thing?

Hmm, the Archaeological Park that details what life was like in the 7th century would be a good place to find out. Guess it’s out of the question to ask the guys buried in the nearby Meriovingian graves.

The Gräflich Toerrin’sche Schloss didn’t have indoor plumbing when it was built in the 13th century. Come to think of it, they didn’t have it when the castle was converted into a Baroque design.

Another place to see is the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul; and while you’re looking at Baroque & neo-Gothic building — there’s been a church on this spot for over 1200 years.

This isn’t the only church in Seefeld, St. Michael’s has been around since the 1300s, but St. Martin’s is a newcomer which you can tell because it’s done in a Rococo design.

As great as all these things are, the festivals and events held in Seefeld are really what gives the town its flavor. Even if you don’t speak German, why not enjoy one of the town’s lectures, book readings, wine events, or Baroque music concerts — you get a true sense of community this way, yes?

The community comes together in other ways, like the Craft Market and the Advent Market (both in November); or the cabaret and theater evenings. If it’s a murder mystery — the butler did it. ;-)

Waldsassen — It’s All About The Abbey, And Glass

October 31st, 2011

Everyone just thinks about the Alps when Bavaria comes to mind. But, did you know that it also borders the Czech Republic? It’s on this border that you’ll find the town of Waldsassen.

Waldsassen became famous for its Imperial Abbey, and much of the town’s sightseeing revolves around it. It didn’t start out as an Imperial Abbey, just a regular old one built by the Cistercians in 1128. Less than two decades later it was granted its Imperial status by Conrad III.

Throughout the centuries, Waldstetten Abbey underwent renovations, and its present form comes from the Baroque period. Let me tell you, you couldn’t possibly improve on this church in any way. You’ll see rich-hued pink and blue marble, carved walls, and the finest details right down to its cherubs.

The Library of the Abbey isn’t just filled with magnificent books, but also wooden carved figures. If you think that’s great, wait til you see the ceiling. It’s open every day from Wednesday to Sunday, in case you’re interested.

Wait. Of course you are. ;-)

Out in the Convent Garden, there are a number of “stations” that are meant to instill an environmental awareness. Who knows if it will, but you’ll find it filled with herbs and other good stuff.

The Abbey even had a castle, built in 1574 with a drawbridge no less. Today it’s a tax office — yikes, don’t let them see me. I’ll head to the Goethe Column before they do. The column was erected here in honor of one of the Abbey’s famous visitors. Goethe must’ve loved the Abbey Church since he came here a number of times.

The Trinity Church (with Rosary Kappel) is another amazingly beautiful church. It has 15 stations, or prayer pillars, that make their way around the Baroque Rotunda. You can go any time, the church is open daily.

This entire abbey and church thing let’s us (almost) forget that Waldsassen is on the Glass Route. And for what, you ask? For its Glashütte Lamberts, a factory from 1934 that produces antique glass.

Waldsassen has a local history museum, the Stiftland Museum, open Tuesday to Sunday from April to January. Here you can learn about the legend of the Köllergrün (said to be the site of the 1st monastery in Waldsassen), then go see the pond for yourself.

If you want me, I’ll be out on a historical walking tour…

Cölbe — Dishy Town With A Serious Soup Battle

October 31st, 2011

When you come to the Hessian town of Cölbe, be prepared to battle. No, I’m not suggesting that you grab a pickaxe or some other instrument of medieval warfare. Instead, grab some garlic, herbs, and veggies.

I’m not joking. Every year on the 1st weekend of December people come for the annual Soup Battle at one of the local hotels. No special time necessary to sample some of locally made sausages (try the blood & liver varieties if you’re really adventurous).

Or, you can play golf on Cölbe’s 18-hole course instead (golfing weekends are really popular here), or stick to shopping at the Craft Market in November. I’ll take the awesome food, thank you very much.

Eating is just par for the course in Cölbe during its annual Autumn Fun (in November), as it is during the Nicholas Celebration. Plus, you gotta keep your strength up during the Winter Hikes or to tackle one of the Nordic Walking trails, don’t you?

Thanks for mentioning hikes, as along one 9.5km hiking trail is the Martin Church in the villages of Schönstadt, and who wouldn’t love a walk along the Burgwald. Why not pretend you’re a Teutonic Knight while you’re doing it? This area was once teeming with the medieval warriors.

They weren’t traveling by bicycle like you can do, though (the Lahn Valley Cycle Path is a good one); and they most certainly weren’t traveling via motorcycle in the Middle Ages. Stay in character, go for the horseback riding instead.

As with anything medieval, there’s always a castle involved. So, a trip to Burg Bürgeln is a must. This lowland castle was built in 1358, and destroyed in 1726 — leaving it the ruin you see today. But, it does house a local history museum.

Funny, a castle ruin in a town that carries the moniker Unser Dorf hat Zukunft (Our Village Has A Future). I can’t be the only one to find the humor in that, can I? ;-)

Greding — All New After The Swedish Invasion

October 31st, 2011

At first I was surprised by how big the Franconian town of Greding was. At over 103 square kilometers with 31 villages, how is anyone supposed to see it all?

No worries, this is what I’m here for. You don’t have to see all of it (unless you want to).

Following along Greding’s Stadtmauer is a good start. Only 1.25km of the defense wall still remains from its 14th century beginnings, and along the way you’ll see a number of its gates (the Eichenstätter Tor, the Fürstentor, and the Nürnberger Tor).

It’s off to the Alte Rathaus, the Old Town Hall which you’ll find right on the Marktplatz. Um, not really, because Swedish Troops burned it to the ground during the Thirty Years’ War, and a fountain stands there today. A new Rathaus was built in 1699 and is still there in all its Baroque glory.

Also on the Marktplatz is the former Fürstbischöfliches Schloss (Prince Episcopal Palace), that even has its own hunting lodge. An interesting piece of 17th century architecture.

As pretty as all that is, the landmark of Greding is the 12th century Basilica of St. Martin. Sure it’s got Rococo artwork, 15th century frescoes, and 12th century chapel (dedicated to St. Michael), but it’s got a cellar that was used to store the bones of the dead in the 14th century. Truly a unique feature that most churches didn’t have.

The other church you need to see in Greding is the Parish Church of St. James. This isn’t the original one, that was burnt to a crisp during the Thirty Years’ War (you naughty Swedes, you). This one comes from 1725.

Do you want a museum? Good, because Greding has two. One is the Museum Natur und Mensch (Nature & Man Museum); the other is a Banking Museum (called Sparkassenmuseum) from before the days of debit/credit cards, online banking, and Paypal.

You can’t get any further from money than to loose yourself in the Altmühltal Nature Park. The Franconian air will certainly do you good.

So will partying at one of Greding’s festivals. The Spring Fair (2 weeks before Easter) kicks it all off, then July brings on the Jakobimarkt and the Volksfest. On the last Sunday of August is the Altstadt (Old Town) Festival; the Herbstmarkt (Fall Market) is the 2nd Sunday of October; ending with the obligatory Christmas Market on the second weekend of Advent.

The biggest of them all is the Gredinger Trachtenmarkt (1st weekend of Sept), where some 10,000 people just have a good time on their minds showcasing their traditional costumes.

See, you didn’t need to wander all 103 square kilometers — leave it to me. That is, unless, you lost me in the crowd. ;-)

Greifenstein — The Greatest Castle Keep And Campgrounds

October 31st, 2011

For those of you out there who couldn’t give two hoots about Germany’s castles, you ain’t ever been to the Hessian town of Greifenstein in the great Westerwald (yet).

I bring up the castle thing because Burg Greifenstein is one of the most awesome castles in the country. Yeah, I know I’ve said this before. But, really, its massive (gargantuan, formidable, and impressive) twin tower Keep is a feat of Gothic engineering in dark, grey stone; even if the rest of the castle is in ruins.

Within the preserved part of Burg Greifenstein you’ll see a torture chamber (as if a 12th century castle would be without one), a wine cellar, an herb garden, and the Deutsche Glockenmuseum (which is a Bell Museum with the history of bell making and almost 50 bells on display). Also within the castle is a history of the castle itself, its owners, and many craftsmen’s tools.

There was another castle in what is now Greifenstein (it’s made up of 10 villages). Burg Beilstein (built 1129) has been in ruins for the better part of almost four centuries (it was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War), but you can only see the outside.

Oh well, guess you’ll have to go see the Jadgschloss Dianaburg instead. It’s not a castle per se; it once was a mid-19th century hunting lodge that’s a real popular stop for hikers in the Westerwald.

That is, if you can tear yourself from the waterfall between the villages of Nenderoth and Odersberg. Picture perfect.

And if you like those famous half-timbered houses, you’ll find a bunch in each of Greifenstein’s villages. One is the Old House, that prides itself on not being a museum. They call it a “living history” kind of thing — where nothing is encased, and everything can still be used.

A more traditional museum would be the Nenderother Heimatstube (a.k.a. Backhaus), a local history museum housed in an old bakery. Ahh, I think I can still smell fresh bread.

Sorry, that’s bratwurst I smell from Greifenstein’s BBQ grillhuts and campgrounds. Great, now I’m hungry. And with a castle as great as Burg Greifenstein, I’d like a meal fit for a king in its honor. ;-)

Bernau am Chiemsee — Never To Be Caught Indoors

October 31st, 2011

If you’ve got any thought of spending any time indoors once you’ve arrived in the Upper Bavarian town of Bernau am Chiemsee, then you’ve got another thing coming. There’s no way (like it’ll be a cold day in hell) that you’ll even want to after just a glimpse of the Bavarian Alps in the background.

There is one exception. That would be the Church of St. Bartholomew, which is an excellent blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture. Oh, yeah, and the 19th century chapel in the village of Irschen.

Now the question remains, what to do outside? Sorry, the question is: what isn’t there to do outside?

Bernau lies on the southwestern part of Lake Chiemsee. Sure, it’s pretty to look at. But, add in windsurfing, swimming, and surfing into the mix, and you’ve just made your time here even better.

Another place to swim is in the Strandbad that’s open May to September. It’s got a place to play beach volleyball and beach soccer, has a waterslide, and an Adventure Playground for the kids. Oh, and it’s free (although you will have to pay to park if you drove here).

As great as you’ll find Lake Chiemsee and its environs, there are many hiking, walking, and cycling trails that criss-cross Bernau. The town is lucky enough to meet up with a number of themed cycling routes, that include the Mozart Cycle Path, the Via Julia, the Benedict Trail, and the Way Of St. James.

For the hiking part, there are a few that lead off from the town’s Tourist Info Center — like the Hitzelberg that’s only a 45 minute route, the Bärnsee (2 hours), and the König Ludwig III Wanderweg (which is a doozy at 5 hours).

The outdoor recreational activities don’t end here. Bernau is great in the winter with downhill skiing, snowboarding, and lots of cross-country ski trails. I would, however, wait for warmer weather before taking a hot-air balloon ride, rock climbing, Nordic Walking, and Mountain biking.

In between all these activities is a chance to experience the cultural side of Bernau, from its Alpenhorn players to theater performances, or just exploring around all the farms and moorlands.

Wow, Bernau am Chiemsee is so great to experience outdoors, I wouldn’t be surprised to find you all sleeping out here. ;-)

Bodenheim — 4 Tips To Enjoy It All

October 31st, 2011

I think I figured out why the town of Bodenheim in the Rhineland Palatinate has a 1.6km historical route that’ll take you the better part of 3 to 4 hours. This way you can see the very best of Bodenhiem’s historical buildings and churches, and still have plenty of time in the day to devote to wine drinking.

On a normal day I wouldn’t suggest drinking the day away, but when you’ve got this many wineries, wine taverns, wine bars, and wine cellars — what’s a guy or gal to do? You just must try all the different varieties, from dry and sweet reds to chilled whites, right?

Here are four tips for you to get the best wine and sightseeing experience…

Tip #1: Save the wine sampling until after you’ve gone to see the 19th century St. Alban Church (built 1830), the 19th century Evangelical Church (that’s open for sightseeing every day from 8am–7pm), and the Pilgrimage Chapel Maria-Oberndorf (this building was also built in the 19th century, because its original was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War).

The Maria-Oberndorf Chapel is where Bodenheim holds its Pilgrimage Festival every year on the Sunday after July 2nd; and the St. Alban Festival is on the 1st weekend of June. Another church festival takes place on the third weekend of September, with a Wine Tasting event taking place a week later. The annual Nikolausmarkt takes place on the first weekend of Advent.

Tip #2: Don’t drink while out cycling the countryside. There are a couple of ostrich farms, and they’re not exactly the friendliest creatures. The ostriches, not the farmers, so you’ll want to keep your faculties about you. ;-)

Tip #3: If you’ve had too much to drink, stay at the Gasthaus Zum Goldenen Lamm — a half-timbered building from the 17th century. You’d have to be totally out there to not appreciate staying in Bodenheim’s oldest inn.

The Molsberger Hof is another gorgeous framework house, built around 1613 or 1614 (it’s quite ornate). As is Bodenheim’s Rathaus — the Town Hall built in 1608. But, it is the Knebelscher Hof that’s even older, built in 1606, making it one of the oldest structures in town.

Tip #4: Don’t try to do any crossword puzzles after hitting up all of Bodenheim’s wineries and other wine stops. Trust me, everyone will just laugh at you. I learned it the hard way. ;-)

Lützelbach — Romans On Every Turn

October 31st, 2011

Every where you turn around in the Hessian town of Lützelbach you’re reminded of Romans. That must seem like an exaggeration, but it lies along the Odenwald Limes, so maybe not.

The Odenwald Limes (or, the Neckar-Odenwald Limes as it’s sometimes called) is a 70km stretch, that once had 80 watchtowers and forts along the way. In the village of Lützel-Wiebelbach (one of the five that make up Lützelbach), you can see what remains of a Roman fortress that was put here around 159 A.D. This one even had Roman baths.

Close to Lützel-Wiebelbach is Burg Breuberg (in nearby Breuberg), thought to be one of the best preserved castles of its kind in Germany.

Preserved or not, German castles are great. And you can see why when you get a look at this one’s 25-meter high keep, and its Gothic and Renaissance style architecture. Even better, it’s got a museum and youth hostel.

The village of Seckmauern had a Roman fort, too. Unfortunately, this one from 138 A.D. you can’t hardly see — but it was there. So too was the Roman watchtower in (the) Haingrund (another one of Lützelbach’s villages).

Breitenbrunn, a village of around 800 people, has a Roman fort — all the better to protect the Roman legion from the invading Germanic Tribes. Today it’s a fun loving town with a huge Carnival celebration, and an 18th century church built over an older one.

Seem to be a recurring theme, because when villagers renovated the Evangelical Church in Rimhorn they found a 10th or 11th century church underneath it.

Rimhorn doesn’t just have an old church, it’s quite proud of the Pretlack’sches Palais. Yeah, not easy to say — and not a palace in the traditional sense. It’s a Baroque mansion (built 1733) that the town spent over a million Euro to renovate, eventually to become the town’s community center.

Don’t worry. now that it’s completed they won’t let in the Roman legion. They got plenty of their own places in Lützelbach. ;-)

Give Lemwerder A Chance, They Are New To Tourism

October 31st, 2011

On the left bank of the Weser River is the town of Lemwerder, located right at the border of Bremen.

Whatever its geography, Lemwerder was the site of an epic battle on March 27, 1234 between the troops belonging to the Archbishop of Bremen fighting against the locals peasants known as the Stedingers.

After almost 800 years the reasons of their clash really doesn’t matter to your visit. Just come knowing that the St. Gallus Church (built 1299) was put atop on what is believed to be the mass grave of over 6,000 of the battle’s dead. Lemwerder’s St. Vitus Monument is also a reminder of the town’s battle.

Thankfully, there isn’t any more skirmishes in Lemwerder, leaving you to enjoy the town in peace. Which you’ll find at the Kapelle am Deich, or Chapel on the Dike. This little building is chocked full of history. One of the oldest buildings in town (built in 1260), it is an excellent example of early Gothic architecture, and has walls a meter & a half thick!

The Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche (Holy Cross Church) is a bit older, built in 1245 by the Cistercian Order. While it might have paintings from the 1720s and an altar from 1765, it is the medieval frescoes in this Gothic church that everyone should see.

Churches might be an excellent way to see how things were built during the Middle Ages, but the Ochtumsperrwerk is an excellent way to see how things were done in the 20th century. The town is quite proud of its movable bridge and lock. Heck, the Ochtumsperrwerk is why Lemwerder is the German Sluice Route.

The late 19th century gave Lemwerder the Schwarzer Leuchtturm, or the Black Lighthouse. This massive 22.5 meter structure, built in 1898, was used to light the way for Lemwerder’s fishermen for almost a century.

For the more seasoned traveler, Lemwerder might not sound like a whole lot. But, considering tourism is relatively new to this industrial area — I’d say, yes it does. Just take one of the marked bike tours (Lower Saxony‘s flat countryside is perfect for this) or the annual Drachenfest (Kite Festival) on the 3rd weekend of August, and you’ll see what I’m talking about.

So, how about giving Lemwerder a chance? :-)

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