I love old maps. They’ll show you all sorts of things from bygone days, and even how cartographers showed the world in which they lived long before there were satellites and GPS systems.

What you won’t find on one of the these old maps is the Hessian town of Lautertal. You see, prior to 1971 the town simply didn’t exist.

No, it’s not like it was *POOF* created by the flick of a Fairy Godmother’s wand, reclaimed from the sea, or even land created from a volcanic eruption. It was created by “merging” some 11 independent villages, none of which were named Lautertal.

Despite being only 40ish, Lautertal’s villages have roots dating as far back as the Middle Ages and even Roman times. (Its village of Reichenbach was first mentioned in 1012.) In fact, the Romans used the granite blocks found around the Felsenmeer — creating the Riesensäule (Giant’s Column) sometime around 250 A.D.

Feel adventurous? Go ahead and climb the Felsenmeer, said to be easy enough for even kids to traverse. For something more difficult you can rock climb the Hohenstein and the Borstein, all of which you’ll find within the Geo-Naturpark Bergstrasse Odenwald.

Did I forget to tell you that Lautertal was located in the Odenwald? Sorry. Either way, hiking or biking through this forested countryside is lovely, even if you’ve decided not to climb any rocks. ;-)

Another thing you’ll find in the forest (besides lots of local flora and fauna) is the Kaiserturm (Emperor Tower). It was originally built at a height of 24 meters and made of wood. Today it still stands as a memorial to Kaiser Wilhelm I, but at a height of 34 meters and made of stone. It’s also where the Odenwald’s highest pub is located. Hmm, a drink with a view. Sounds great!

Lautertal also meets up with a mythic scenic route, the Nibelungen section of the Niblung-Siegfried Route in the village of Lautern (as well as linking the E1 & E8 European Trails). And what good is a fairytale without those fairytale half-timbered houses? Good thing you’ll find a good deal of them here.

Yeah, I might like old maps, but I love the stories of the places on them even more — even if Lautertal wasn’t listed.

Suppose you’re standing in the town of Brunsbüttel on the Elbe River. What do you see? Look beyond the half-timbered houses. Do you see it?

It’s the Kiel Canal (Nord-Ostsee-Kanal in German, NOK for short), the busiest artificial waterway in the world.

I’m not just saying that (they’re not my words) — that’s according to the Canal itself. I guess with some 40,000 commercial vessels passing to and from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea, that would be about right. Heck, that’s not even including all the leisure ships that have a go at it.

Just one thing: you can’t be a sailboat without a motor. Sorry, plain old sailboats aren’t allowed to cross this 98km (61mi) waterway, that was once called the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Kanal. Not only was it built to save time (ships no longer have to go across the Jutland Peninsula), but it’s also a safety precaution. The seas are notoriously famous for harsh weather, so the Kiel Canal is a much safer option.

Interesting, considering the canal was built because the Imperial Navy wanted to hook up its fleet between the two seas — avoiding Denmark. Now, the canal hooks up with 14 ferry lines, has a pedestrian tunnel, and has a number of bridges crossing it — including the A7 and A23 Autobahns. Oh yeah, you can see it if you’re crossing the Kiel-Flensburg Railway too.

A couple of other rules gotta be followed if you’re going to cross the canal instead of over it.

1. No smoking while going over the canal.
2. You better know your “flag alphabet” (this way you can signal Man Overboard, Tugboat Required, you get the point). And…
3. No ships over 772 feet long. The rules don’t end here, there’s a whole slew of ’em — but I won’t bore you with them.

Traffic goes both ways, so if you’re on the Baltic Side you’re right at Kiel-Holtenau.

Kiel is a fun, sea-loving town that hosts Kiel Week on the last week of June every year. That certainly increases the traffic along the Kiel Canal, since as much as 3 million people make their way to all the festivities. A long way from the Imperial War Harbor it once was, don’t ya think?

It gets cold up here in this part of Germany, and a good way to warm up is to try Fliederbeersuppe (Elderberry Soup), a nice treat on a cold Autumn or Winter night. Don’t let the mercury stop you from visiting Kiel’s Old Botanical Gardens, the St. Nicolas Church (the oldest building in town), and the Olympic Village.

Sorry, the concerts for the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival are only held in the Summer. ;-)

Oh, I only glossed over Brunsbüttel, didn’t I? I’m surprised I didn’t just jump right out to tell you about the free ferry service that rides the Kiel Canal from here, or the Schleusenmuseum Atrium, a Sluices Museum — sluices/locks help the ships get across the Kiel Canal.

Also, Brunsbüttel lies along the North Sea Cycle Route, the German Cabbage Route (Europe’s largest cabbage-growing area), and the German Ferries Route. Befitting since traveling this route ensures you’ll the best of what the Kiel Canal has to offer.

This town also hosts a number of concerts for the annual Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival. One fun activity here is mudflat hiking — you gotta wait for low tide, though.

Even though there are a number of rules to follow to cross the Kiel Canal, and it’ll cost you money to take your boat (ferries are free though) — it’s still an awesome feat of German engineering, and the towns alongside are totally amazing.

If you’re wondering which seas Germany has (if any ;-), and if German seas equal beaches… Rest assured, we do.

You are aware of our Big Two, the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, aren’t you? But did you also know ’bout a “third” sea in Germany, the Wadden Sea? What? You missed that the first time around. ;-)

Well, the Wadden Sea is an incredible body of water, that’s also a National Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Germany.

Bird watchers, this is your kind of place. Did you know that more than 12 million birds come here every year to use the area as a breeding ground? I guess you mudflat hikers better look up. And you gotta have something to do when the tide’s high and you can’t walk out over the mudflats, don’t ya?

In case you weren’t aware, the Wadden Sea is found in the North Sea. Which, BTW, was totally overrun by Vikings at one point in Germany’s history. You won’t find any Vikings today, so the biggest threat are the storms and gales.

Tish-tosh! A good storm is par for the course. ;-)

The North Sea (or Nordsee in German) doesn’t just flow to Germany’s coastline, it goes to England and the Netherlands and also around Scandinavia and Belgium. The North Sea Trail is a long-distance hiking route that’ll showcase it all.

Forget walking, it’s time to fish as the North Sea has over 225 species of fish (including lobster & shrimp). Keep a lookout for the seals and walrus, while you’re out there.

The North Sea also boasts Jade Bay (a.k.a. Jade Bight; Jadebusen in German), created from storm floods in the Middle Ages, which is part of the Wadden Sea National Park. If you’re looking at the water from Wilhelmshaven, you’re staring right at it. And the area was once used by the Imperial German Navy.

If you take the Kiel Canal from the North Sea, you can be at the Baltic Sea in just about no time. This gorgeous sea was once ruled over by the Hanseatic League, and created by Ice Age glaciers. It gets cold around the Baltic — and it’s known to freeze over in some areas.

This sea’s got it all, by the way. From fjords (like Kiel Fjord, Flensburg Fjord), to islands like Rügen and Usedom, and a couple of awesome bays.

Kiel Bay is one of them, sitting right next to the Eckernförde Bay and the Flensburg Fjord along the German/Danish border. Kiel Bay gave some protection from the marauding Vikings — and is quite a busy waterway. The city of Kiel sits on the eastern side of the Kiel Canal — the busiest artificial waterway in the world.

Connected to Kiel Bay is the Mecklenburg Bay, or Mecklenburger Bucht. It’s the largest bay in the Baltic Sea, has a couple of uninhabited islands (like Walfisch), and has seaports in Lübeck, Wismar, and Rostock. It’s a great beach destination. Just ask anyone in Kühlungsborn or Dahme (Holstein).

Wismar Bay doesn’t want to be outdone, and it won’t. Too much research and underwater archaeology goes on here. And it’s really popular with bird watchers, as it sits along a bird sanctuary. Great for fishing too, I must admit. The Bay of Wismar, or Wismarer Bucht as it’s called in German, has its own island, and lies along a federal waterway. A good option, considering the bay is well-sheltered from the rough weather the Baltic Sea is famous for. Can’t be too bad, there’s a nude beach out on Poel Island.

Just put some clothes on if you’re going to check out any of the lighthouses that dot the coastal landscape, OK?

Other Seas in Germany

• Dollart — A small, cute bay in the northwest of Lower Saxony.

The acronym UNESCO gets thrown out there on many webpages, but means nothing if you don’t know or understand what exactly the designation stands for. UNESCO is the “United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization.”

Means nothing on its own, but their sole purpose is extol the virtues of the “common heritage of humanity.” And while Italy has the most of any country (51 World Heritage Sites), Germany’s not too far behind with 41. There would be 42, but the Dresden Elbe Valley lost their UNESCO title in 2009, because a bridge was built that broke up the natural landscape.

In order to lose a UNESCO title, you’d have had to earn one in the first place. How? Well, there are 10 “criteria,” and you have to meet at least one of them. The first one is “be a masterpiece of creative genius.” Another criteria is an “outstanding example of a building or architecture at a significant stage of human history.”

It’s no wonder why many of the UNESCO sites in Germany like Aachen Cathedral (Charlemagne is buried here), Speyer Cathedral (a fantastic example of Romanesque architecture), and the Cathedral of Trier are listed. They are outstanding, aren’t they?

And you’ll find that many sites here in Germany fall under more than one category.

The Augustusburg Castle and the Falkenlust Castle in the town of Brühl are definitely both creative genius and outstanding architecture. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better Rococo architecture than right here. Except maybe at the Pilgrimage Church of Wies, built in a Bavarian Rococo style.

Wartburg Castle is one of my favorite places, whether it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site or not — which it is. Not only is the castle the former residence of a medieval saint, but where Martin Luther translated the Bible into German. Luther’s name doesn’t end there on the UNESCO list. Two monuments of him (one in Wittenberg, the other in Eisleben) have made the cut.

Whole monasteries are also listed on Germany’s UNESCO sites. Who hasn’t heard of the Maulbronn Monastery? But, did you know the monks were leaders in engineering, as well as devout men of God? You know the Abbey & Altenmünster of Lorsch (one of the oldest & wealthiest of the medieval monasteries) is on the list, and so too is the Monastic Island of Reichenau.

We’re not limited to just castles and churches, though. Germany’s Völklingen Iron Works received the UNESCO badge because it’s a testament to the Industrial Age. It was also the first of its kind to be given the title. Another first for Germany, yay!

Mining was also a contribution to industry, so added to the list of Germany’s UNESCO sites is the Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex in Essen and the Rammelsberg Mines.

Industry isn’t limited to mining, the Fagus Factory in Alfeld is remarkable enough to have been added.

Sometimes whole towns (or at least the old parts of town) are given the UNESCO title. For example, the Altstadt (Old Town) of Regensburg, and the entire town of Bamberg (it’s medieval flair has something to do with it). Not only is Quedlinburg added because of its Altstadt (with 1300 half-timbered houses), but also for its Stiftskirche (Collegiate Church).

The whole town of Bremen didn’t make it, “just” its Rathaus (Town Hall) and Roland Statue. Its Town Hall has pretty much remained the same for the last six centuries, which is about the time Roland came to town. His statue says that as long as his plaque stays, Bremen will forever be free.

So far, these are all man-made sites, and the natural world isn’t left out. UNESCO has also honored places like the Wadden Sea (great for mudflat hiking, but also acts as a breeding ground for birds), the Prehistoric Pile Dwellings (found along the Alps), and the Messel Pit Fossil Site (a volcanic crater filled with fossils; in Messel, just northeast of Darmstadt).

Not too many people might have heard of the Primeval Beech Forests of Carpathians & Ancient Beech Forests of Germany (that’s a long name), but this nature area is another natural UNESCO site. (I’m inclined to simply call them Ancient Beech Forests going forward.)

Every year more and more sites are submitted to UNESCO for consideration — and places like Schwetzingen Castle (yeah, pleeaase!), Heidelberg Castle, the Naumburg Cathedral, and the Margravial Opera House in Bayreuth might one day be added to the (already) long list of Germany’s UNESCO sites. With any luck, we might overshoot Italy. ;-)

What do Lübeck, Hamburg, Cologne, Osnabrück, Goslar, Erfurt, Berlin, Frankfurt (Oder), Rostock, Stade, Wismar, and Bremen all have in common?

What if I add Visby, Brügge, London, and Novgorod to the list? Then we know they’re not just cities & towns in Germany.

Give up?

They were all part of an international alliance known as the Hanseatic League, or Hansa, or Hanse, as it was sometimes called.

The Hansa was the brainchild of Henry the Lion, a 12th century Saxon Duke. Although, when he organized a bunch of towns along the Baltic Sea and North Sea coasts little did he know the power the merchant guilds would hold until around the 18th century — actually going until around the mid-19th century.

Trade around the Baltic Sea wasn’t all that lucrative until the Hanseatic League got in on the sailing action. Well, between the Vikings and pirates, who could afford to do anything? This is why so many towns and cities joined in, they all made a pact to help each other with aid. They even had their own legal system.

But, trade was their ultimate be-all end-all. See? Everything has to do with money. At the height of the League’s power in the 14th century, all sorts of new and exciting goods were making their way to/from Germany. They were getting things like herring from Scandinavia; and they were exporting salt — because Hamburg was at the epicenter of the Salt Routes.

I’m sure not just the Germans were happy with all the linen, wool, and silk that made its way from port to port. Sometimes goods weren’t the only things transported, a good number of ships carried troops. The Hanse was partially responsible for carrying on the infamous War of the Roses.

They did get their rear-ends handed back to ’em by the Dutch, who fought against their monopoly during the Hansa-Dutch War in the 15th century — giving the Netherlands the much needed access to the Baltic Sea.

The wealth generated by all the timber, amber, grain, and everything in-between gave rise to many gorgeous cities along Germany’s coastline. We can thank the Hansa Teutonica (its Latin name) for all the outstanding brick Gothic architecture found in places like Anklam, Greifswald, and Lüneburg.

Come to think of it… we probably wouldn’t have the European Route of Brick Gothic Architecture without them.

Too bad Lübeck isn’t on that scenic route, but it was the capital city of the Hanse. Once you’ve seen the city’s Holstein Gate, you can see the real power and wealth of it all. Too bad the Hanseatic Museum isn’t in Germany (it’s in Bergen, Norway). Maybe someone will eventually add one.

One of the greatest achievements of the Hanseatic League wasn’t a church or castle, nor was it a typical building of any kind. They were lighthouses along the coasts. A good safety feature, huh?

As with most things, nothing lasts. By the 16th century the Hanseatic League was losing its grip, caused by things like the Protestant Reformation and the rise of the Ottoman Empire.

In 1862 the Hanseatic League was officially dissolved. However, they are making a comeback of sorts. Many of its former members are proud of their Hanseatic history, which is why the Rostock Football Team is known as Hansa Rostock. And why you’ll see titles like the “Free & Hanseatic City of” (English) or “Freie- und Hansestadt” (German) added before the names of Lübeck, Hamburg, and Bremen.

There’s a New Hansa in town, BTW. Any city or town associated with the original organization (or was the site of a Kontor, a trading post belonging to the League in other cities) can join in the New Hansa. Every year they host a huge festival, known as the Hanseatic Days of New Time, or Hansetage der Neuzeit in German, hosted by one of the League’s former cities.

Even Lufthansa, the German National Airline, carries the Hansa name (Luft means air, BTW). Wow, if that doesn’t say something about the Hansa’s contribution to Germany, nothing will.

What you might not be aware of is that there are two lakes in Germany that bear the name Plauer See. One is in Brandenburg, the other lies in Mecklenburg-Western Pommerania, near the mighty Müritz.

Forget about Brandenburg for now, this is all about the one in MeckPomm.

For better differentiation, I’m gonna call the one in Brandenburg Lake Plaue (due to its name giver, the village of Plaue), and this one here in Mecklenburg I’m going to call Lake Plau (due to its name giver, the town of Plau am See).

You’ll find Lake Plau to the west of the Müritz and the Kölpinsee, with its northeastern part lying within the Nature Reserve Nordufer Plauer See. All the better to see all the local flora & fauna, my Dears. ;-)

But with all that land, how does Lake Plau get all its water? Well, one could say it gets it from the Müritz (and on to Kölpinsee, Fleesensee, Lake Malchow, Lake Petersdorf, Lenz Canal…) or, from “any” of the Mecklenburg Lakes.

Ahh, so that’s how all the fish got in there…

I hope they don’t all escape before I’ve gotten a chance to go fishing. Nah, the outflow of the Plauer See is at the Müritz-Elde Waterway and the Elde. I’ll just get ’em from there before they’ve made a run (I mean swim) for it.

And anyway, Lake Plau is over 38 square kilometers and some 25-meters deep, so they might not be so easy to catch. Guess everyone will be here for a while before something starts biting.

Swimming sounds like a good idea if you’re not catching anything. Go to Plau am See for that. Besides being in the nature reserve area, this town’s great for horseback riding, swimming, hiking, and golf. It’s even got a castle, with walls that are 3-meters thick. Talk about a defense system.

Plau am See has a promenade where you can enjoy views of the lake, a 13th century church, half-timbered houses, and every Wednesday at 8pm (from June to September) there’s a Summer Music Program.

Zislow also has summer music programs, and they got this totally cool looking half-timbered octagonal church (built 1749). From the looks of it, you’d never guess it started out as a simple Slavic Settlement.

I’m having the time of my life here along Mecklenburg’s third largest lake. Aren’t you?

It’s time to go to Petersdorf, a village of only 166 people. 167 now that I’m here. Its stone Village Church (15th century) is quite striking, and the Feldberg Lakes Nature Park is exceptionally beautiful.

And just because you’re out exploring around a lake doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice seeing any museums. Come ashore to Alt Schwerin and Jürgenshof (part of Malchow) to see their Agricultural Museum. Want to camp out? This is the place to do it, or not. Not everyone want to sleep out under the stars.

Go ahead — pamper yourself. Spend the night at the Mentiner Schloss in Suckow, which is not only a Classic Car Museum but a hotel as well. This place could make you feel like a fairy prince(ss) for a minute.

Pretty cool, this Lake Plau/Plauer See is so awesome that I forgot there was another one with the same name (almost). Until I get there, that is.

Picture the Forggensee like Bavaria’s Bathtub. Just not filled with warm water and a whole bunch of bubblebath. But, just like a bathtub you can “pull the plug” (so to speak) on this man-made lake.

Pull the plug?

Yup, the Forggensee can be drained, just like a tub. A unique little feature, I must say, all done in order to keep the towns alongside it from flooding. I guess someone had to do something. The Lech River is responsible for the water coming in; and at its mercy since it’s responsible for it going out.

Consequently, “Bavaria’s Bathtub” just happens to be Germany’s largest reservoir.

What’s even more unique is that while the Forggensee was man-made, it was partially created during the Ice Age. Don’t ask me how. I’m no geologist (or some other Earth-science expert). I’m just a simple geography and geology fan that just happens to know that it’s filled with all sorts of fish — like trout, pike, eel, and perch. No wonder you’ll find all kinds of fisherman scattered around its 15 square kilometers.

Sorry, Fisherman Guys, it freezes over in the winter. Darn… that means no surfing, sailing, or boating in the dead of winter. ;-)

Oh well, I guess you’re just going to have to hike around the Forggensee instead. Don’t freak out, it’s only 12km long and only 3km wide at its widest point. If the Ancient Romans could do it, so can you. Anyway, consider it a great way to see all of the Forggensee’s towns.

Speaking of Ancient Romans and great towns, it reminds me of Roßhaupten. This town lies along the Via Claudia Augusta scenic route, but it is the story of an 8th century saint who slayed a dragon here that it’s most famous for. This explains the stone dragon you’ll see here, doesn’t it?

Schwangau is another famous Roman town, but this place too is more famous for something else: Hohenschwangau Castle. Did you know that King Ludwig II’s family used this castle as a summer home? Except this 12th century castle did have to be rebuilt before Ludwig’s dad, King Maximillian II, and his family could move in — it was in ruins, ya know. His work to restore the castle is the reason we’ve got another stop on the Romantic Road.

Before you’ve gotten to Hohenschwangau you might have noticed the church of Sts. Mary & Florian first. It’s located right on the bank of the Forggensee, so how could you not.

Would you like a birds-eye view of the Forggensee? Go to Halblech and take the cable car. The view of the Alps isn’t too shabby either. ;-)

On land, Halblech is a quiet town of around 3400 people — with all sorts of great outdoor recreational activities. Even in the winter, walks around the meadows and hills are replaced by cross-country skiing and ice skating.

Ha-ha-ah-ha. Take that, Nero. When you created the Via Claudia Augusta you didn’t have any clue as to how awesome Füssen was going to turn out. No one had a vision — except my buddy, King Ludwig II.

Thanks, Louis (that’s his English name). You were a visionary when everyone else thought you were off your rocker. You’d be happy to know that millions of people come every year to see your Neuschwanstein Castle — which is probably the most famous castle in the world. Buckingham Palace/Glamis Castle… blah blah — don’t want to hear it. ;-)

Füssen isn’t limited to just my pal Ludwig’s castle, the city has a fantastic Baroque church at the Kloster Mang; then there’s the Museum of Füssen too.

No hard feelings if I don’t join you? Thanks, I’ll be out on the Forggensee admiring the scenery. Just don’t let them pull the plug while I’m out there.

I know the saying, All Roads Lead To Rome. What I like to think is: All South Germany’s Rivers Lead To The Danube.

Yes, I’m being silly, but Lake Tegernsee in Upper Bavaria is yet another of Germany’s lakes that somehow manages to lead off towards the Danube.

OK, maybe not directly since this nine square kilometer lake (that was created during the Ice Age) flows out to the Mangfall River, which flows to the Inn River. Which, in turn, flows into the Danube. Wow, it’s like Six-degrees of Separation River & Lake style. ;-)

If something goes out, it must have an in, right? The biggest contribution of water to the Tegernsee comes from the Weißbach, but it also gets water from the Rottach, the Grambach, the Alpbach, and the Zeiselbach. Whew, that’s a whole lot of H2O, huh? No wonder the deepest part of the Tegernsee is 72-meters.

For as big as the Tegernsee is, it isn’t a big sport fishing lake. Cool, no competing with others for prime fishing locations. It’s a hit or miss whether you’ll catch whitefish, trout (the rainbow variety), pike, or charr.

Unlike the Königssee that is “encircled” by one town, the Tegernsee is encircled by a handfull of charming villages (sshh — and the trail around it is just awesome!).

Rottach-Egern is one of them. From the Tegernsee you might have noticed the sharp spire of Rottach’s St. Lawrence Church, built in 1111. Up close, you’ll notice the Romanesque church has both a Gothic and Baroque appearance.

Bad Wiessee is the resort town around the Tegernsee. Besides its mineral springs, Bad Wiessee has a beautiful Baroque chapel (known as the Hubertuskapelle), 18th century farmhouses, and an 18th century Plague Chapel.

One of the more interesting towns shares a name with the Tegernsee. The town of Tegernsee is home to the Tegernsee Abbey, founded by two brothers in 746 A.D. — remaining open until 1803 (yes, that’s more than a thousand years) under the Benedictine Order. The Tegernsee Abbey is where you’ll find the Tegernsee Castle (once a Royal Palace), a restaurant, and a brewery.

FYI, a brewery was founded at the kloster some time in the middle of the 11th century. That’s like 500 years before the Purity Laws went into effect — but I still bet it was good.

Forget German beer for a minute, the St. Quirin Church of the Abbey is a must-see. This Baroque church is a sight to behold with all its marble, gold, and painted dome ceiling. If I could grab a pillow & lay on the floor all day staring at it, I would. They wouldn’t let me, though, the spoil sports! ;-)

So, on to Kreuth it was — at least I know this town can party. Every year on November 6th the town holds its Leonhardifahrt, which they’ve been doing for over 500 years. We Germans do love tradition, don’t we?

Just don’t go expecting them to let you in to see Schloss Ringberg. This 20th century castle (that looks older because it’s got a blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles) is only open once every other year. When they do open it up, everyone wants a glimpse.

It’s a good thing there are ferry crossings along the Tegernsee, this is how I got to Gmund am Tegernsee. Oh, wait — I could have just taken the train that arrives every hour from Munich, could I? Arriving either way is no big deal, so long as you see the 17th century St. Giles Church (it started out in the 11th century), or the Plague Chapel (built 1634) which has a World War I and World War II memorial right outside.

You know what? Who cares if all roads lead to Rome or if all the water leads to the Danube. I’m staying right here for a while…

Did you ever hear the saying “Life’s short, eat dessert first”? My friends, the Upper Bavarian Königssee is like that. It is the dessert of the entire Bavarian experience.

If you think I’m joking — you couldn’t be further from the truth. ;-)

The Königssee is advertised in Germany (and beyond) as the “cleanest lake,” and you know what? It is, because how many other lakes can you just drink from? C’mon, everyone grab a glass — it’s not like we’re going to drain it dry; the lake is some 190 meters deep (at it’s deepest point, it’s not like you’re just gonna fall to the bottom of it stepping from its shoreline).

Where does the Königssee get all its water from? Well, from the eastern part of the lake it’s fed by the Obersee, the Königsbach, and the Ostufer; from the west it gets even more water from the Eisbach and the Schreinbach. That’s a whole lot going in — not too much going out, because it only leaves from the Königssee Ache (that’s part of the Danube River System).

As with most lakes you’ll find a bunch of wildlife living within it. Go ahead, grab a rod & reel to fish the trout and charr. All you need is a lemon, some salt & pepper… oh, that’s a fine dish you’ve got there. Thanks, I’m staying for dinner. ;-)

The electric boats that traverse its crystal waters really help in keeping it clear. You can take one of these small vessels to the St. Bartholomä Pilgrimage Church. I’m pretty sure you’ve seen at least a picture of it. It’s that gorgeous red-dome church under the eyes of the Watzmann (that smashing mountain peak of the Bavarian Alps).

Every year on the Sunday after August 24 (St. Bartholowmew’s Day), you can join the annual pilgrimage to the 12th century church. I know, it doesn’t look very medieval — it underwent a Baroque renovation.

St. Bartholomä is one of the biggest attractions to the Königssee. But, because this small (it’s less than 5.5 kilometers square) it isn’t flanked by a bunch of small towns and villages — really only Schönau am Königssee (the lake technically belongs to the town) and the Berchtesgaden National Park, which is a UNESCO Biosphere area, BTW.

Schöngau am Königssee is a totally awesome town of less than 5,400 people; and has probably that many activities. From here you can see the bobsled/luge/skelton track, go Nordic Walking, Mountain Biking, go paragliding, play tennis, go golfing, try ice skating, go skiing, and hike & cycle ’til the cows come home. And even then you still won’t be done with all the recreational activies. ;-)

If you’ve chosen the hiking option, you should do it in the Berchtesgaden National Park. Keep your wits about you, otherwise you’ll miss seeing the deer, otters, and wolves. And if you can see the vultures and Golden Eagles from the park — you know you’ll be able to see them soaring over the Königssee itself.

One of the most fun parts of the Königssee is a hit or miss kind of thing. About once every 10 years (give or take) an exceptionally cold winter hits Bavaria, freezing the lake. When this happens, everyone’s out there walking across (it’s only 1.7km at its widest point), or ice skating across it.

The “fjord-like” mountains surrounding the lake certainly add to the whole lake-skating experience. These rock walls create an echo effect, and it’s not uncommon to hear horns or the flugelhorn being blown to show everyone the mountain accoustics.

Because of its echo, I’ll only have to yell this once — then everyone will hear me: “The Königssee Is The Dessert Of The Bavarian Experience!” — “Königssee is the dessert of the Bavarian experience.” — “…Dessert of the Bavarian experience…” ;-)

The European Route Of Brick Gothic, or Europäische Route der Backsteingotik in German, would be hard to appreciate without understanding the Hanseatic League of the Middle Ages. The wealth afforded by all the guilds, trading, and commerce allowed many opulent churches, monasteries, houses, and defense walls (with gate entrances, of course) to be built in the grandest style of its time.

The Hanseatic League wasn’t limited to just Germany (with Lübeck as its capital, but sadly not listed on this route), but travels all the way from Denmark to Poland and Estonia.

We will, however, only worry about Germany — which just so happens to be the biggest portion of the route.

Start of the European Route Of Brick Gothic (in Germany)

Well start our tour in Schleswig, which doesn’t have too much in terms of number of brick Gothic architecture, but its St. Petri Cathedral (built in 1134) and its 400 figures carved into its altar is an awesome start.

Buxtehude‘s 13th century Stadtmauer really gives the town a medieval feel some eight centuries later. The town’s St. Peter’s Church (also from the 13th century) also helps in that regard. Residents are also proud of its 16th century Bürgerhaus and its man-made port, known as the Fleth. Take a guided tour around the Altstadt (Old Town) for the best experience.

Lüneburg is next up — and I hope you plan to stay for a while. It’s going to take some time to see its Rathaus (Town Hall) with its “rooms” known as the Prince’s Hall (15th century), the Alte Kanzlei, Bürgermeisterkörkammen, and its 14th century porch called the Gerichtslaube.

Yeah, that’s just one building.

Time to move on to see the St. John Church (this one built in 1174, but an old Carolingian one stood here before); the 15th century St. Nicholas Church; the former Franciscan Monastery (the kloster’s from the 13th century, the chapel 15th century); the town’s 12th century convent (housing a carpet museum with exhibits from the 13th/14th centuries); and the oldest of the them all the 10th century St. Michaelis Church, which is the final resting place for many of the region’s ruling families.

Don’t even think of exploring the Lüneburg Heath; there are still quite a lot of stops on our Brick Gothic Architecture itinerary… ;-)

Schwerin‘s contribution to the European Route of Brick Gothic is the Schweriner Dom, or Schwerin Cathedral. Its tower stands some 117 meters skyward, and is decorated with stained glass and a bronze baptismal font. Beautiful on inside as well as the outside.

You won’t be long in Parchim. That is, unless, you’ve gotten totally mesmerized by its St. Mary’s Church (built 1249) and its organ, artwork, and altarpiece. The St. George Church is another reason why Parchim’s on this scenic route.

Do yourself a favor at this point, find a quite inn or guesthouse to get a good night’s rest. You’re going to need it to see all the sites in Stendal.

Start at the Kirche St. Marien (built 1283) which still has a working astronomical clock; followed by a visit to the Church of St. Nicholas and its 22 stained glass windows. Stained glass is also the focal point of the late 13th century Church of St. Jacobi, while its carvings from the 14th and 15th century that await you at the Church of St. Peter.

You’ll be greeted by Roland (a 7-meter high statue) at the the 15th century Rathaus, but you will have to take a guided tour if you want to see inside the Tangermünder Tor (a gate built in the 13th/14th centuries). Although, it has been said that Stendal’s Uenglingen Tor is “one of the finest medieval tower gates built in the brick Gothic style.”

I don’t know if I’m educated on the subject enough to dispute that claim. You be the judge, OK? ;-)

Brandenburg an der Havel is another town where just an afternoon isn’t going to cut it, there’s too much to see. Start with introducing yourself to Roland, the Royal Protector of the Market — and who stands some 5 meters high. Follow up with a visit to the 13th century Rathaus (you’ll find it at the Old Town Market), then to the Cathedral of Sts. Peter & Paul (it was a 10th century Romanesque church, now a 13th century Gothic one).

The Domklausur was a Bishop’s Palace at one time, onwards to the Dominican Monastery & Church of St. Pauli that was a retreat for monks. It houses an Archaeology Museum, so its way educational.

Brandenburg (Havel) has some towers built in brick, which would be the Plauer Torturm, the Rathenower Torturm (built 1290), and the Mühlentorturm (built 15th century).

Yikes, I haven’t even mentioned the Franciscan’s Church of St. John (1237), the St. Gotthardt Kirche (12th/15th century), and the true Gothic masterpiece of the St. Catherine Church…

There’s no getting away from churches in Prenzlau, whose towers of the St. Mary’s Church is the town’s landmark. During the summer you’re more than welcome to climb to the top of ’em. The 1.5km of Prenzlau’s Stadtmauer doesn’t seem that big from that vantage point. ;-)

Promise me you won’t leave Prenzlau before heading to the Dominican Monastery Prenzlau from the 13th century.

Another Franciscan Monastery awaits you in the next town on our itinerary: Neubrandenburg. The Johanniskirche that belongs to the monastery might be from the 13th century, but its Renaissance pulpit and Baroque altar are beautiful in their own right.

Neubrandenburg also has those City Gates and a medieval Stadtmauer that everyone loves so much. The Treptow Gate is 32-meters high, towering above the city wall that’s only a mere 7-meters tall. At the peak of their defense of the city, it had more towers as well as moats to safeguard the city — and places like the 14th century Chapel of St. George.

You’re just about to the half-way point of the German portion of the European Route Of Brick Gothic when you arrive in Anklam. The reason you’re here is its Nikolai Church (built 1280) and its 52-meter high tower that doubles as an observation tower. The Church of St. Mary (built 13th century) also has a lookout tower.

The 32-meter high Steintor (Stone Gate) is the only remaining gate of its day, and is now a museum.

There isn’t a whole lot to see in Wolgast, so that means you’ll have plenty of time to look around the town’s St. Peter’s Church (built 12th/13th centuries) and its 15th century of Chapel Gertrude.

It’s your first ruin when you arrive in Greifswald, the Klosterruine Eldena was built in the 13th century, eventually destroyed as the Thirty Years’ War raged on in the 17th century. The Dom St. Nikolai is still intact, said to be the oldest and biggest (including all its side chapels) in the region.

If you thought you’ve seen a lot so far, that ain’t nothing compared to what Rügen has to offer. There are some 20 churches throughout the island that have made the Brick Gothic list.

Deep breath… here we go:

St. Mary’s (built 1180) was used by Cistercian monks, the Old Parish Church belonged to Danish monks, St. John’s (13th century) tower was used by sailors as a landmark, St. Michaelis’ Church is one of the most “imposing,” while the Church Bobbin has an extensive collection of art spanning centuries.

Church Piseritz might have been built in 1302, but it is its 16th century crucifix and Rococo pulpit that everyone wants to see, St. George Wiek was built in 1318, and Church Lanthow is still holding services (as well as concerts) after more than 500 years.

The St. Lawrence Church Zudar is a former pilgrimage church, and St. Mary Magdalene’s got the oldest bells around these parts. There are two churches to St. Andrew — one being in Lacker Granitz having a wide squat tower, the other in Rappin built in 1305.

In my opinion (I’m entitled, ha ha), the United Church Zicker whose simple design (and squat tower) from the late 14th century really grabbed my attention, as I’m sure it will yours.

Stralsund is another town with a number of sites to see. The St. Nikolai is one of the oldest churches, and offers free tours in both German and English for anyone interested. St. Mary’s also has German/English tours, and from atop its 104-meter high tower you can see the Baltic Sea.

The St. James’ Church is more than just a place of worship, it’s a concert and exhibition venue; while the St. Catherine Monastery was also an orphanage and arsenal at one time or another. It is now where you’ll find a Cultural History Museum and the German Oceanographic Museum & Aquarium.

At Mönchstraße 38 the Museum House (built 1320) shows what it was really like to live during the height of the Hanseatic League’s zenith.

And because I’m obsessed with books, it was the Baroque library at the Franciscan Monastery of St. John from the 13th century that I loved the most.

Ribnitz-Damgarten has less than a handful of sites to see. One being the Rostocker Tor, the last of its kind in town. It’s been keeping watch since it was built in 1257, and is open to visitors from May to September. St. Bartholomew is open from May to October, even after being destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War. Last stop is the Klarissenkloster Ribnitz, a staple around here since the 14th century.

I can’t believe the time on the European Route Of Brick Gothic is winding down. Good thing a place like Bad Doberan has got my spirits up. The reason you’re here is the 12th century Cistercian Cathedral with an altar dedicated to St. Michael. The Ossuary, the final resting place of 13th-16th century monks’ bones is also an interesting (albeit a bit morbid) piece of architectural and religious history.

All right, after this long of a journey so far, you’re entitled to relax a little in one of Bad Doberan’s wellness centers.

With just three more towns left as you arrive in Güstrow (and now that you’re refreshed), I hope you’re making the best of what’s left. Too bad the Dom Güstrow (Cathedral) hasn’t been used since the 16th century — it’s a bum rap for a church that’s been around since 1226. At least the 14th century Parish Church of St. Mary’s 45-meter high observation tower makes up for it.

No leaving before you’ve gotten the chance to see the 14th/15th century Gertrude Chapel or the Holy Spirit Church built in the “doubly unlucky” year of 1313.

Tosh! Thirteen is a lucky number in my books — bring on Friday the 13th, and wouldn’t that be quite an auspicious day to see it? ;-)

Neukloster’s deal on the European Route Of Brick Gothic is the Propstei, a home belonging to the Provost of the local monastery. The painting in the monastic church of St. Mary Sonnenkamp are legendary — a place that fell to the Swedes during the Thirty Years’ War.

It’s been a long journey, and we’ve one town left: the grand city of Wismar. The first thing you might notice is the 80-meter high tower of the St. Mary Church.

Amazing as you’ll find the church’s architecture. You’ll really be stunned once you’ve learned that it was the Lutheran St. Nicholas Church that managed to survive World War II totally unscathed.

Everyone gathers at the churchyard of St. George to enjoy all sorts of lectures, concerts, and other types of exhibitions; yet to just sit for a spell with a drink would be at the Summer Cafe run by the 14th century Holy Spririt Church. Guided tours will take you around for just 1 euro — and they even offer a pilgrim hostel for affordable (yet basic) accommodations.

That’s good, ’cause I’m really tired after trekking what seems like all over North Germany. Maybe I’ll stay for a few days — before finding another scenic route that’s all about Germany history of some sort or another.

European Route Of Brick Gothic Web Site

Here’s the official Web site of the European Route Of Brick Gothic.