Not too far from Wiesbaden in Hesse on what’s called the “Way of the Eagle” is the town of Heidenrod.

By the way, I’m not making this Way of the Eagle thing up. But what is this Way of the Eagle business anyway?

The town of Heidenrod (and the whole surrounding area) was once the haunt of the Romans. This “Way” is just the modern day touristy route that links a few of the former Roman forts in the towns of Heidenrod (of course), Aarbergen, Hohenstein, Bad Schwalbach, and Taunusstein).

In addition to looking at part of the Roman Legion’s defense system, you can also camp out in Heidenrod (kind of like they did) and pretend you’re Julius Caesar or something. The Wisperpark is one of the most popular, in case you’re interested.

Running around playing army or roughing it within might not be your idea of a good time, so good thing you’ll find a couple of castle ruins in the village of Geroldstein (one of the nineteen villages of Heidenrod), which also has quite a few hiking trails along its many hills.

In the village of Nauroth it’s not just about the forest, there’s a good deal of wine growing going on; and the town’s historic Town Hall is one of the town’s attractions.

If you’re worried about getting lost in the great expanse of forest, you can get yourself a guided tour of the woods. One such tour gives you all the information you can handle of many of the local animals that call Heidenrod home, right down to the nocturnal bat.

The rest of your time in Heidenrod is spent in other outdoor pursuits. Fishing is one of the more popular pastimes, as well as horseback riding.

In case you get hungry there are plenty of grilling huts in the forest (and along the trails) for an afternoon picnic.

I hardly think those Romans had it as good as you will when you visit Hesse’s Heidenrod.

At first I wondered why the Upper Bavarian town of Hausham had two train stations. I pondered. I questioned. I speculated. And the best reason I could come up with was that lots of people wanted to get themselves right to the foot of the Alps.

Now I’m pretty sure that’s not the real reason, but I really couldn’t care less why civil engineers (or whoever comes up with these ideas) did it. All I know is Hausham is a pretty fantastic town for all sorts of winter or summer sports.

What? I said it right at the foot of the Alps, what did you expect? ;-)

Honestly, Hausham wasn’t always the sports resort kind of place that it is today. It was a typical mining town right up until the 1960’s, when its coal was finally depleted. From 1942 to 1945 it was also a location for a sub-camp of the Dachau Concentration Camp.

Even Hausham’s landmark has to do with mining; it’s a support tower from the height of its mining heyday. And the Mining Museum is open to visitors on the first Saturday of the month from 2pm-6pm.

At least the onion domed church of St. Anton is open more often. Don’t be fooled, this church isn’t as old as it appears — its a Neo-Baroque church built in 1909.

Hausham’s Brown Chapel is a sight to see, too. This is a real Baroque chapel from the 18th century housing a beautiful Madonna from the Gothic period.

The other church to see in Hausham is the part Neo-Romanesque and part Baroque church in the village of Althausham from the 1870’s.

I hope you’ve rested a bit after seeing the town because you’re gonna need it. There aren’t too many places (that I can think of anyway) where you can ski, go tobogganing, cross-country ski, snow tube, mountainbike, Nordic Walk, hike, bicycle, or take an eco-tour all in one place.

Hey, at least Hausham doesn’t just have two activities like it has two train stations. ;-)

I know in today’s day & age that science has gotten a grip on things that used to fill us with wonder and awe. But, as much as I like learning new things; I’ll take the wonder and awe.

There’s a wonderful legend in the town of Heiden, called the Devil’s Stones. The story goes that the Devil himself was carrying these stones on his way to city of Aachen to ruin its magnificent cathedral.

He runs into a shoemaker carrying a bunch of worn out shoes. The Devil asks how far to the city. The shoemaker in reply says he’s gone through all the shoes he was carrying coming back from there. The Devil disgusted and discouraged dropped his bag of stones right there on the spot.

That’s not quite the end of the story. The legend continues that the stones are cursed (so don’t take one as a souvenir), so to speak; nor can you ever count them without getting different results every time.

Of course, science tells a different tale. That tells the stones came from almost 150,000 years ago during the last Ice Age. Thousands of years later they were used as a prehistoric burial site.

Along the Devil’s Stones (called the Teufelsteine in German or Düwelsteene in Low German) are many hiking paths, as well as through the nature reserve areas. The Loop Trail is 7km long — starting at the Heidenspassbad (the town’s spa), passing under tree canopied lanes. It’s quiet, peaceful, and pretty.

If you’re tired, relax over by the Artesischer Brunnen or Artesian Wells. There are foot baths and aquariums full of fish. It’s a perfect end to a perfect day hiking or biking. The same could be said for the Römersee, too.

Within Heiden itself, sightseeing around will lead you to the St. George Parish Church and the Westmünsterlandhalle Heiden, which is a multimedia center.

I’ll take the spa experience myself, while I ponder the story of the Devil and the shoemaker that outsmarted him. ;-)

When you step off the train in Harzgerode at a small brick station, you could really be anywhere in the world by the looks of it. But, once you get past that train station you’ll find it to be 100% true German; right down to its castle ruins.

Some people find lighthouses romantic; others find quiet tree-lined streets romantic; yet others find castle ruins romantic.

Good thing there are the ruins of Castle Anhalt and Castle Güntersberge to see. Look at it this way… If you had to live in the Middle Ages, wouldn’t you wanted to have done it in style?

Hmm, I start thinking about the castles & then I can’t think of anything else.

I’m just playing; I got more to tell ya about Herzgerode.

Besides its castle ruins, there are a few museums in this small town in Saxony-Anhalt. There’s a Castle Museum (of course!) and a Mining Museum. A unique museum is the town’s School Museum. Ha, just the place the kids will want to see during their summer vacation! ;-)

Let’s see, what else will you find?

Oh, the Peter Chapel in the village of Alexisbad (there are only 42 people that call this place home) is a nice stop. The chapel does more than just hold religious services; it’s a concert venue too.

In Güntersberge you’ll find the graves of Soviet forced laborers from World War II, and a memorial plaque at the nearby Jewish Cemetery.

There is also a charming half-timbered Town Hall (called a Rathaus in German), and two churches that share the same name, St. Mary’s. Just so you know one is Catholic, the other is Lutheran.

For some outdoor activities there’s a ski jump, and a Nordic Walking Trail for all levels of fitness.

Every year on the first Sunday in June is the Harzgerode Run. It has a 16km race, a 5km race, and 2.5km race; and for the kids there’s a 1km run — just in case you want to start training now.

In the village of Silberhütte there’s a Forest Church; and a festival that centers around two rustic steam engine trains.

Didn’t I tell you that Harzgerode was all German, even if the train station makes you think you could be anywhere?!

Sure you’ve probably heard about the Black Forest. You’d pretty much have to have had lived on another planet or under a rock not to. It’s not some mythical place like Atlantis, neither is it just some small wooded area.

Don’t go sitting there scratching your head wondering what this has to do with the town of Althengstett (which in itself is pretty fund to pronounce). Plenty, I tell you.

The town of Althengenstett lies completely within this Northern Black Forest area, sharing borders with bigger towns like Bad Liebenzell and Calw (which has an early 19th century executioner’s block — make sure you get a chance to see it).

The biggest attraction that’ll make you want to come to Althengstett is the Schwarzwald, which is the largest nature park of its kind in Germany. There are so many hiking and cycling trails through the park that my feet hurt just typing about all its hiking trails.

The pain is worth it. But, if you get too tired, there’s the Black Forest Railway to get yourself around. ;-)

It’s also where you’ll find all sorts of Black Forest goodies, like cuckoo clocks.

Not everything in Althengstett is done in the great outdoors. There’s a beautiful stone Waldensian Church in the village of Neuhengstett, as well as a Waldesian Museum (located at Waldenserstraße 8, open April to October on the 1st Sunday of the month 2pm-5pm).

Another church is the St. Mark’s Church, located within the Altstadt (Old Town). It was originally Catholic, which became Protestant after the Reformation. What’s that tell you? It means the church was here before 1517 (because that’s when the Protestant Reformation started).

All this running around nonsense can sure make you tired. I think lounging around the town’s municipal pool is a good idea. You’re surrounded by wonderful countryside, a children’s pool for the youngster to enjoy, a diving platform, and massaging jets in the water to send away the world’s ills.

I think getting lost in the Schwarzwald could do the same thing, just with better food & treatment. ;-)

When the weather starts to warm up for a long cold winter, don’t you want to be outside? You know, to stretch your legs or enjoy the warm sunshine on your face? Yeah, I know I do.

Sure, you could easily do this in your own backyard; but, I think the Hessian town of Ahnatal is a better idea.

Ahnatal lies just to the north of its big sister neighbor, Kassel, and along the border of the Nature Park Habichtswald. You’ll find all sorts of outdoor activities to put a little color in your face and give you a nice little workout.

The most famous part of the Habichtswald is the Dörnberg. This special area within the nature park has everything all in one place. Like flowers? It’s got orchids and many others. Like a bird’s eye view? It’s got an observation tower and paragliding. Even if you like history the Habichtswald accommodates. There’s a castle ruin and a cult site.

Do yourself a favor and take a night tour of the nature park. It’s pretty cool.

You’re going to have to come back inside for a bit, the Culture Center Habichtswald has exhibits on fossils found within the park, as well as others.

Also bringing you back inside for a spell is the Mining Museum. The main theme of the museum is life of a miner during the 1930’s. Now the old mining quarry is a swimming lake with a BBQ area.

After a day at the beach, make sure you clean up well enough when you visit the Wilhelmsthal Castle. This incredible Baroque and Rococo palace can only be seen by a guided tour (hourly), and its gardens (with fountains, sculpture, and outbuildings) are open year-round. Keep a look out for the grotto with its little cherubs.

Sounds like your kind of place? Good, if you’re in Kassel, Bad Emstal, or Fuldatal you can easily reach Ahnatal by bus, tram, or rail. You could just as easily walk, especially after a long winter stuck indoors. ;-)

An old friend from the United States once told me that on her list of “50 things to do before she dies” list (more commonly known today as a “Bucket List”) is to see all the great churches and cathedrals of Europe.

Well, I think that a trip to Germany would certainly help her on her way. And, a trip to the town of Algermissen should be on the itinerary.

It’s a good thing we’re in the 21st century, because back in the 17th century a trip to Algermissen wouldn’t have been a good idea. It was that pesky Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) that ravaged on, not to mention the plague outbreaks that would have made seeing the town’s outstanding churches a bit impossible.

The oldest of Algermissen’s churches is the Church of St. Martin. It’s a Romanesque church built just shy of 900 years ago in 1117. I would say that’s a great church to see for anyone who appreciates architecture, art, and religious history. Wouldn’t you say?

Two centuries later the Chapel of St. Mauritius was built. This Gothic chapel is an excellent example of medieval engineering and religious devotion.

The third (and last) church within Algermissen is the Baroque church of St. Matthew. It’s ceiling paintings and alter are quite remarkable (and famous throughout the region).

To keep with the religious theme for just one more second, there are crosses, shrines, and statues scattered throughout Algermissen’s seven villages.

But, like my friend who wants to see all these churches, she would want to see more than just that. So, good thing there’s a Heimatmuseum at Neustraße 10 (a local history museum for the non German speakers — oh, I mean readers in this case ;-).

There’s also a War Memorial on Neue Strasse.

But, stop the presses for a minute. I’ve gone on long enough about the pious and devout part of Algermissen. It’s time for a bit of fun. On Rose Monday it’s not uncommon for youngsters to go house to house looking for candy. NO, I swear it’s not Halloween — it’s right before the start of Lent.

In July everyone gets together for the Feast of the Visitation. Oh, never mind, it even seems that Algermissen’s festivals have a religious theme.

I guess I better call my friend and tell her to book the first flight to Germany — then straight on to Algermissen (cause she doesn’t know what she’s missing). ;-)

At first glance you might not think the town of Allersberg in Middle Franconia doesn’t have much to offer. I thought that, and I couldn’t have been any more wrong.

Yeah, I said W-R-O-N-G. Allersberg has more sights, sports, and festivals than I could ever do in one visit.

There’s a Historic Tour that you can follow when you’re here. It starts at the early 14th century Gate Tower, which is the only part that stands from its defense wall.

You follow along to the Old Hosptial (built 1336) that’s now a bowling alley and restaurant. Then it’s onward to the Parish of the Assumption, an early 18th century church built over an older ruin.

The next stop is the Rathaus (the Town Hall) built in 1505, passing on to the Heckel and Gilardi Houses from 1721 and 1723, respectively.

After there you’re off to the Market Fountain, the site of the annual festival held on Corpus Christi (can be in May or June depending on the Christian calendar). You’re close to the Old School from the late 19th century from there.

Allersberg saves the best for last on this Historic Tour. It’s the 12th century All Saints Church filled with all sorts of medieval and Renaissance artwork.

Can we back up a minute? I mentioned the annual Corpus Christi Festival, but that’s not Allersberg’s only one. The Jacobi Market (last weekend of July) has shopping, a chess tournament, concerts, and ends with a wonderful fireworks display.

The Street Festival at the end of August is all about dancing, food, and fun. On the second weekend of Advent the Christmas Market has more than just stalls of goods — there’s plenty of music and a guided Historic Tour if you’re interested.

Didn’t I tell you there was stuff to do? And there’s still more!

This part of Middle Franconia has all sorts of outdoor sports. You’ll find (this is a long list) camping, miniature golf, swimming, horseback riding, Segway tours, surfing, sailing, biking, hiking, hot air ballooning, and fishing. (I’m sure I missed something.)

All this is in addition to the highlighted cycling and walking routes like the Lorenzer ReichWald Route (40km for cycling) and the Rothsee Walking Trail (11km, walking).

The Rothsee lake is the best place to finish up in Allersberg. Here you can just chill out by the water or float along the lake. There’s a concession stand in case you’re hungry and a playground for the little ones.

Yup, I couldn’t have been more wrong about Allersberg on first sight. But, at least I can keep you from making the same mistake I did.

Oh, my revered and precious Lower Franconia, how happy I am to return to you.

Forgive me, I forgot someone was going to be reading this for a minute there. It’s just that I get so excited when talking (writing) about Bavarian towns like Arnstein in Lower Franconia that I can never quite contain myself.

But, you knew that already, didn’t you?

It’s just that there’s a lot to be excited about in Arnstein, a small medieval town between Schweinfurt and Würzburg.

I mean, where else are you going to find medieval and Renaissance churches alongside the sweetest smelling rose gardens and tons of hiking trails that go off into the wild blue yonder?

Um, that would be Arnstein in case you weren’t paying attention. ;-)

Arnstein’s landmark is the St. Sebastian Parish Church, which is probably why you’ll notice it first. Come inside to see its early 19th century interior.

I like the Parish Church of St. Michael in the village of Schwebenried; and I think you will too.

But, save the best for last — that’s the Maria Sondheim, a late-Gothic Pilgrimage Church from the 15th century with its delicate frescoes.

The Balleshaus is nice, too. What is it? Um, that’s an 18th century manor house, since you asked.

Enough with the inside — it’s time to experience Arnstein’s outside. And the Rose Garden is just the right place to start. It’s built on a slope and from the top you have a vista of its Old Town.

Roses not for you? How about the Wern Cycle Route? This is 78 kilometers along the Wern River. Though, you don’t have to do the whole thing if you don’t want to. Save some energy for the hiking trails or swimming at the communal lake as well.

Historians of Jewish culture will want to come to Arnstein, too. There was a Jewish presence here as far back as 1298. But, do to some pogroms they left; not returning until the 18th century, building a synagogue, a school, and a mikvah (a ritual bath). The old Jewish Quarter is found along Goldgasse; with number 28 being the former synagogue.

I hope you don’t mind me leaving you here exploring the rest of Arnstein on your own. I kind of want to get back to my Franconian love letter — and I know there’s a beer garden with my name on it somewhere. ;-)

Within the Catholic Community there’s a widespread belief that only Popes are infallible. So, it’s not far-fetched then that the creators of the Benedict Trail (or, Benediktweg in German) created this scenic route with a flaw.

How can this be? A tourist route totally dedicated to this 21st century German pope is wrong?

Wait, let me explain first…

The Benedict Trail is a 248km circular cycling route through Upper Bavaria, taking you to Benedict XVI’s hometown, the town where he spent his days in the seminary, and to churches, abbeys, and monasteries that were here centuries before.

Technically the route starts in Altötting, a pilgrimage town for the last 1200 years. This magnificent town should be the LAST town you visit. But, in all fairness I’ll start the Benedict Trail here and you can make your own judgement to whether you want to save this place until the end.

Over a million visitors come to Altötting a year, even having received some papal visitors as well — think Pius VI (18th century) and John Paul II (20th century). Benedict XVI came here when he was just plain old Joseph Ratzinger with his father.

Everyone and anyone comes to see Chapel Altötting with its Black Madonna and hears the legend of a local woman bringing her drowned son in front of the Madonna, who was revived — back in 1489. Also within the Chapel Altötting are the hearts of Bavarian rulers, including the hearts of Ludwig II, his father and grandfather.

Centuries before the Chapel Altötting, Monastery Altötting, and the Abbey Church were built Altötting was a Celtic & Roman settlement town. At the Diaorama Show you can get an interactive look at 5,000 years of Altötting’s history. That’s a lot of history, religion, and culture all in one place!

The next town on the Benedict Trail is Neuötting. Unlike most German towns this old, you’re not going to find a large number of timber-framed houses on the Marktplatz. Here in Neuötting they’re mostly designed in the Inn-Salzach architectural style.

The Gothic Town Church of St. Nicolas and the Burghauser & Landshuter City Gates make great photos to remember your trip. Plus, don’t leave without visiting the Town Museum and St. Anna Church (b. 1511).

Marktl am Inn seems to be the right place to start the Benedict Trail. Why? Because Joseph Ratzinger or Pope Benedict XVI was born in Marktl am Inn on April 16, 1927. He was baptized at the 15th century St. Nicolas Church, no one knowing then he would grow up to be Pope. Young Joseph lived here until 1929 — but, the lookout point over by the 16th century Church of St. Sebastian was here long before he was though. Marktl also has a nature reserve area and a local history museum to visit while you’re here.

Before making your way off to Burghausen, stop at the Gothic St. Nicolas Church in Hohenwart. Its winged alter is a fantastic example of medieval artwork.

Burghausen has one of the longest fortresses in all of Germany, the Burghausen Castle. It also has six courtyards and a chapel. Besides having a Local History Museum, a Photo Museum, many timber framed houses, the 14th century Church of the Holy Spirit, and an early 16th century St. Jacob Church — Burghausen has a nature reserve area with a beach, so you can totally let your hair down!

In 1929 young Joseph moved to Tittmoning, but before you arrive here you’ll pass through Raitenhaslach and Marienberg.

Over in Raitenhaslach there’s an extensive Cistercian Abbey complex (built 1146) with more Baroque art treasures than you can imagine. The 18th century Pilgrimage Church Maria Himmelfahrt is done in a Rococo style that’ll send you into sensory overload. Your eyes won’t know what to focus on first — the gold details, the cherubs, or the marble!

Tittmoning wasn’t always Bavarian — it was ruled by Salzburg in the 13th century. This is a pretty interesting town with a historic Rathaus (Town Hall), a Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum), and a Tanning Museum (and not the kind filled with sunning beds!).

The Parish & Abbey Church of St. Lorenz is also a frequently visited site — and shouldn’t be missed! The last time Pope Benedict was here in 1983, when he was known as Cardinal Ratzinger, for the church’s 300th birthday.

Passing through Waging am See, you’ll be tempted to just keep wandering around all the half-timbered buildings on the Marktplatz and the 17th century St. Martin Church. That’s not even including the Bavarian Museum with all sorts of archaeological finds — but, you’ll be doing yourself an injustice if you don’t take a dip in one of Bavaria’s warmest lakes! Ahhhh, refreshing!

Onwards to Traunstein! This is where brothers Georg & Joseph Ratzinger said their first mass together at St. Oswalds; and where Joseph went to Seminary. Joseph returned here to Traunstein after serving time in a POW camp and his parents old farmhouse is located on Eichenweg 19. Pope Benedict has always felt an affinity towards the Traunstein Seminary — often returning throughout the years to take the pilgrimage to Maria Eck, some 10km away.

Today, just as they did about 60 years ago in Benedict’s time everyone loves to swim, sail, and surf in Chieming. When you’re waterlogged enough, come back to dry land and visit Castle Neuenchieming. You don’t have to go too far as it’s right on the edge of the lake!

When arriving in Seeon-Seebruck, I know what you’ll be thinking… What does this old Roman town have to do with the Benedict Trail? Not all that much, really, its just that its 15th century St. Thomas Church and Roman Museum are historical and educational.

I kind of like the Benedictine Monastery in Seeon, personally. Well, it’s not a monastery (quite famous for medieval book illustrating) anymore — it’s a convention center now and still located right out on an island in the middle of the lake is pretty cool.

Oh sure, what can you do in Gstadt am Chiemsee after you’ve visited the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul? Oh, how about a boat ride to Frauenchiemsee and it’s 8th century convent; or to Herrenchiemsee with its 17th century church & 12th century Herrenchiemsee castle. Sounds good, right?

Another castle can be found at Amerang, this one from the 16th century; and it has a castle museum! We Germans love our cars, so the Automobile Museum is a good idea!

At the bend along the Inn River is Wasserburg am Inn, a place that retains its medieval feel. The paintings in the 14th century Frauenkirche are just divine and there are many framework homes from the 15th and 16th centuries! Other artwork can be found along the Sculpture Trail — and German beer is the highlight at the Beer Cellar Museum.

Oh, what? Because this is the Benedict Trail — I can’t mention beer? Benedict might be pope and now living in Rome — but Joseph Ratzinger is a Bavarian — so dollars to donuts, I’m sure he still appreciates a good brew ;-)

All right, enough about beer for now — it’s time to get back to the churches and monasteries that highlight this route. Good thing there’s a gorgeous one in the town of Gars am Inn. Only one this old (8th century) could possibly distract you from the beer, of course ;-)

Kloster Au isn’t nearly as old — this one wasn’t built until the year 1000. It used to house the relics of St. Felicitas and her seven sons. The convent buildings are still used by Franciscan nuns — the same order of nuns that taught Pope Benedict music lessons. I’m sure they didn’t let him or his sister (who went to school here) drink at the courtyard biergarten. Then again, maybe they did?

We’re almost at the end of our Benedict Trail — and Joseph lived here in Aschau am Inn from 1932-1937 on Hauptstrasse 21. Ashau is a real look at a real Bavarian rural town, which Benedict wrote about in his autobiography.

Long before becoming Pope (or even Cardinal for that matter), Joseph used to be an alter server at the St. Maria Himmelfahrt Church. While you’re at it, come see the 13th century Church of St. Peter, too.

Mühldorf am Inn might have been a Roman town, but its the Middle Ages and the Renaissance that have really shaped it here!

You’ll also find that the Marktplatz is done in the Inn-Salzach architectural style — but, the Renaissance Town Hall and the medieval Smokehouse are what really gives this town its flavor! Yeah, I know — bad pun!

Because this is your second to last town on the Benedict Trail, take your time here — you’ll be glad you did. Mühldorf has many beautiful churches, including the 14th century St. Johanneskapelle which is right next door to the very early 14th century St. Nicolas Church.

If you want to explore the countryside, Mühldorf has a nature reserve area with many walking paths — and a public transportation system that can take you just about anywhere in Upper Bavaria (and Germany)!

Don’t leave yet, though! You got one more town on the Benediktweg! Tüßling might be last, but it’s certainly not least — and you’re only about 7km from Altötting, where you started (or not). Visitors come to Tüßling to see its 14th century Pilgrimage Church Heilingenstatt (relics included), its 18th century Marktkirche St. Georg, and Schloss Tüßling (built 1583).

Tüßling also has a Brewery Museum. ;-)

Oh, wait a minute! You know how I said that maybe you might want to end your journey on the Benedict Trail in the town of Altötting. I think I take that back… You’ve come this far on such a religious and devotional route, why not end it with a fine beer? As I said before Joseph Ratzinger is a Bavarian — he’d appreciate one, too (if no one’s lookin’!) ;-)