Kellinghusen — Garlic Toads In The Aukrug Nature Park

August 5th, 2011

Did you know there were forty-two communities, municipalites, towns and villages that can be found within the Aukrug Nature Park? Forty-one of them won’t concern you right at this moment, it’s the town of Kellinghusen in Schleswig-Holstein that I’m writing about.

Choices. Choices. Do we sightsee around the cobblestone streets, or do we throw caution Pto the wind, and head right over to the Nature park?

Nature Park it is! Just be prepared to be here for a while, it’s some 380 square kilometers. This is why there are more than 40 towns and shires within its boundaries.

The Aukrug Nature Park is a haven for black storks and other birds, who just love the ponds and moorlands. Keep a keen eye out for the Alpine newt and Garlic toad. Do you think it really tastes like garlic? I’m not all that adventurous to find out. ;-)

I think I just freaked myself out. Better come back to the town center. This is where you’ll see Kellinghusen’s historical Rathaus (its red, you can’t miss it). Don’t be fooled by the Town Hall, it was built only at the turn of the 20th century; and its attention to detail is extraordinary (look for the Schleswig-Holstein Coat of Arms).

The detail of the Rathaus isn’t enough to make it Kellinghusen’s landmark (there are two and this isn’t one of them). That title belongs to the towering Luis Berger Tower, and the Church of St. Cyriak.

St. Cyriak is a formidable structure, built originally in 1154 by the Vizelin Monastery monks. After a horrible fire (caused by lightning) in 1686, the entire church was rebuilt in just about a year. It was renovated in the 1970’s so this outstanding Protestant church is waiting for you to visit (I swear, no Garlic toads).

I wonder how many of the Naturpark Aukrug towns can say that? ;-)

Küps — Extraordinary Architecture In Upper Franconia

August 5th, 2011

There are two things that make the Upper Franconian town of Küps pretty remarkable, castles and festivals. On the whole, Küps is just an ordinary town with some extraordinary architecture and good eats (I mean shopping).

I don’t know which castle to ask you to see first. So, I wrote them down on a piece of paper and threw a dart; landing on the Wasserschloss Tüschnitz.

Let me start by saying this particular castle isn’t standing anymore. The only thing left is the outline of the foundation. Its tower was here back in the 14th century, so it truly was a medieval castle (with a moat no less).

Archaeologists have found that the former Castle Tüschnitz was (is) connected to the Upper Castle of House Schemenau, a half-timbered structure dating to 1540.

Hmm, I could only speculate as the late night, clandestine meetings that the passageway led to. Maybe I should make up a story & write a book. (Hey, don’t steal my idea, OK? ;-)

There might not be a Lower Castle, but there is a New Castle. There was a castle here prior, but it was destroyed during the Peasants’ War.

The Jagdschloss is next on the list, a hunting lodge that was under siege during the Thirty Years’ War in 1625 (successfully, I might add).

Don’t go anywhere yet, there are still two more castles to go.

You can’t see the inside of Castle Schmölitz (it’s a private home), but the outside of this medieval original is worth it. This castle too was destroyed during the Peasants’ Revolt in the early 1500’s.

Be transported from medieval Germany to the 19th century English countryside when you see the Schloss Oberlangenstadt. This is a Gothic-style castle whose interior is like a historical United Nations with Rococo, Spanish, Moorish, and French designs.

Folks lucky enough to secure a reservation (there are only 5 rooms) at the Old Guard can spend the night at the 13th century Old Castle.

You’ll be glad you stayed the night if you’re here during one of Küps’ festivals and markets. I’ll double check to make sure I listed them all. ;-)

The Spring Market falls at the end of April/beginning of May, followed by the Mountain Festival and the Patron’s Market (both in July), the Craft Fair falls in September, and the Autumn Market hits in the middle of October. Last, by certainly no means least, is the obligatory Christmas Market on the 2nd Sunday of December.

All of Küps’ markets are filled with lots of music and scrumptious regional dishes. Better to keep up your strength to see the Franconian Forest Nature Park.

I think I found my little piece of heaven…

Kressbronn am Bodensee — Lost In A Corn Maze On The Kirchenweg

August 5th, 2011

I wonder if the Swiss looking across Lake Constance to the town of Kressbronn am Bodensee in Upper Swabia are jealous. I mean, how could they not? There’s just about everything under the sun you can think of here.

For another thing, Kressbronn is on one of Germany’s famous scenic routes. You’ll find this charming town on the Lake Constance Cycle route, the Upper Swabian Baroque Route, the Württemberg Wine Road, and a few others like the Bible Trail and the Kirchenweg.

Sure, I know it sounds like I’m just spouting off all these routes as if that means something. It will when I tell you what else you’ll see in Kressbronn.

On the Upper Swabian Baroque Route (highlighting many gorgeous Baroque buildings) are the Baroque (of course!) chapels of St. Sebastian (built 1600), St. Joseph (built 1659), St. Mary (1737), and the Chapel of the Assumption (also built 1737).

Many of these chapels are also highlighted on the 17.5km Kirchenweg, starting at Kressbronn’s Rathaus (Town Hall). The religious theme keeps going along the Bible Trail, which isn’t measured in kilometers — it goes to 12 “stations.”

I would most certainly visit the Church of St. Gallus, a Baroque church from the 1780’s; built over the site of an early 15th century original.

For you overachieving types, you’ve got the 111km cycling trail that runs along the Lake. It’ll take you to a few other great towns along the Bodensee, including Neukirch (Tettnang), Meckenbeuren, and Überlingen.

Here’s a fun thing to do in Kressbronn, walk the Maislabyrinth or Corn Maze. Yup, it’s a labyrinth made totally from corn stalks, and it’s open every year from late July to late September. A few times a year it’s open at night using torches and flashlights to find your way.

There’s no maze at the Schlössle, but its park sure is pretty. Also at this former castle (that’s now a museum) you’ll see more Baroque and Rococo architecture, with art exhibits and an entire collection of model ships.

I’ll let you in on a little secret. I’m writing this from the middle of the corn maze — I can’t find my way out. Can I get a little help here, please? I’d love to find my way back to the shore of the classy Lake Constance so I can see the faces of those jealous Swiss. ;-)

Karlstein am Main Holds Its Own With Famous Spessart Neighbors

August 5th, 2011

Karlstein am Main in Lower Franconia is on the River Main (like its name implies) not too far from Aschaffenburg.

Karlstein’s two villages (neither named Karlstein) are Großwelzheim and Dettingen. The latter being the site of an epic battle during the mid-18th century War of Austrian Succession; but its historical name suggest that it’s much older (possibly 3rd century A.D.); and the former about 400 years younger than that (thanks to Emperor Otto II).

Either way, the name Karlstein comes from the days of Charlemagne, who went hunting in the nearby Spessart; which, by the way, is an awesome place to go hiking or walking. Maybe Karl der Große was on to something here?

Most of the sightseeing around Karlstein isn’t within the town limits itself; although there probably isn’t a better centrally located town in the area. It is also a place of extraordinary countryside, perhaps this is why so many people come to camp here.

It’s also got a huge (16 acres) lake, the Großwelzheimer Badesee, with a sandy beach; with a basketball court, volleyballs, and miniature golf course. There are also plenty of bike trails, hiking paths, and even a boat harbor. Yachting anyone?

To see Karlstein’s historical side (what, I told you how old Karlstein was, didn’t I), start at one of the town’s churches (Hippolykirche and St. Boniface, which are both catholic). Then bring yourself to the Heritage Museum in the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) in Dettingen.

When you’re done with all that, there’s still plenty of time to see some half-timbered houses and the monastery museum in nearby Seligenstadt; Mespelbrunn’s got a castle (with moat); and Hanau is the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm.

Wow, Karlstein am Main sure keeps some great company, doesn’t it? Well, I think so anyway, although the town itself can hold its own right with them.

Kleinostheim Will Take Away Your Worries In The Spessart

August 5th, 2011

Kleinostheim is a town in Lower Franconia just to the west of the Spessart. Which means to you, that you’ll not only be delighted with a town that’s over a thousand years old; but also right in the heart of some wonderful countryside.

I think this is the reason that Bavaria is the most visited region in Germany. But, what do I know I’m just a simple fella? ;-)

You’ll find this little piece of Franconian heaven along the A3, the A45 (Germany loves its Autobahn, does it not?); and quite close to Aschaffenburg.

There’s isn’t a whole heck of sightseeing within Kleinostheim (which was originally called Ossenheim when the Franks founded the town in the 10th century). But, what it lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality.

The St. Lawrence Church (Catholic) is a good place to start as any. But, keep in mind this present building is a relative new addition, built in the 1950’s.

Partly due to an air raid in January 1945 where hundreds of buildings suffered heavy damage or were totally destroyed. But, a church stood on the spot of the “new” St. Lawrence Church for more than a 1000 years. It’s good to see some things never change, huh?

The town’s Church of St. Mark is the local Evangelical Church. Wouldn’t be a bad idea to stop over there, either.

Onwards to the Spessart! You really didn’t think I wasn’t going to suggest getting out into the fresh Franconian air, did you? No, of course not.

The Spessart is a special area filled with all sorts of walking paths, hiking trails, and bicycle lanes. The local flora and fauna will have you forgetting about work, checking your email, or your pain-in-the-neck mother-in-law (fill in your own crazy family member if you don’t have one of those) that you left back home. ;-)

So, enjoy Kleinostheim while you can!

Kandern — Grapes, Alps, And Black Forest Castles

August 5th, 2011

When I was a kid there was a TV show that used to have a “magical” mirror that could “see” all the little kids sitting at home watching. I see, Charlie. I see, Mary. Whatever, you get the point. And it was the town of Kandern that brought me back to my happy childhood days.

How? Because I see, Germany. I see, France. I see, Switzerland. Get it now?

Kandern is lucky enough to be right at the border of these three countries, as well as at the edge of the mystic Black Forest. Yeah, nice little piece of real estate you guys got there, huh?

Kandern might not even have been on your list of places to see. Maybe you kind of wandered in following the red lozenge signs of the 285km long Westweg; which is part of the E1 European Hiking Trail that runs from Basel to Pforzheim.

If you’ve hiked this far, you’ve earned yourself a stiff drink. Go ahead, have a glass of wine — you’re certainly in the right place for it. Hundreds of acres are just lined with beautiful vineyards, all with one purpose — to make German wine!

Most of the vineyards are located in the villages of Feuerbach (which also has a pretty medieval church) and in Tannenkirch.

Tannenkirch is one of the most historical, so it’s not just about the grapes. There are awesome views of the Alps and Black Forest, a church with medieval frescoes, storks for bird watching, and a favorable Mediterranean climate.

Wollbach’s got the museums. One is a restaurant/museum with the works of local artist Max Böhlen; the other is a local history & ceramics museum with fine examples of medieval pottery.

Am I missing anything?

Actually, I am. The 10th century village of Riedlingen has a golf course and an outdoor theater that showcases many performances for two weeks every summer.

Every thing in Sitzenkirch came after the end of the Peasants’ War (in 1526), as the entire town was leveled; except the 13th century Romanesque church — that one still stands.

Holzen has wine, too. But it also has its own share of storks (again, for more bird watching), and the town’s Rathaus.

There are two last places to see in Kandern; and you’ll find them just north of town. It’s the ruins of the 13th century Sausenburg Castle. The other is the 18th century Rococo Castle Bürgelin — which is NOT in ruins.

I guess I can play my childhood game another way: I see, castles. I see churches. I see vineyards. Whatever, you get the point. ;-)

Kusterdingen — Cultured Town With Green Tiled Church

August 5th, 2011

Just to the east of Tübingen in Baden-Württemberg is the town of Kusterdingen. It’s biggest “claim to fame” is its medieval church, the Kunsterdinger Marienkirche.

But, before you go off thinking this is some grand dame of churches you’ll be disappointed.

That said, I by no means imply that the Mary Church isn’t special. Quite the contrary, it’s just that this 11th century Romanesque church is simple and understated which is why this church is utterly fantastic. It did have a Gothic facelift; and its chapel is dedicated to St. Michael.

It has a green tiled roof (different, no?) and its four bells did have to be replaced after being damaged during World War II. Each one is inscribed, and although you might not be able to read it, their chimes are the pride of Kusterdingen (and the district of Tübingen).

Despite having a more famous neighbor like Tübingen, Kusterdingen is a very cultured city (sorry, an inhabited area with just about 8,000 people isn’t a “city,” it’s a small town).

But, that’s totally irrelevant to the story, is it not? ;-)

Anyway, the town (city, whatever you want to call it) has a Local History Museum (called Heimatmuseum) filled with traditional costumes and such; and Kusterdingen’s old monastery is now a cultural center (housed in a building from the 1770’s). It’s the site of many of the town’s cultural events, like the Summer Festival in July and the Community Festival, also in July.

Not all of Kusterdingen’s festivals take place at the “kloster.” The Harvest Festival in October, the Christmas Concerts and Christmas Market (usually late November) take place throughout other venues around town.

Hey, any place that has Christmas caroling during the holiday season is all right in my book — even if its church isn’t as “grand” as one of those world famous Cathedrals.

Bersenbrück — Religious Town With Chapels, Churches, Museums

August 5th, 2011

So, you’ve found yourself blowing into Bersenbrück in Lower Saxony on the wind coming from the North Sea, did you? Wow, that’s a strong breeze, isn’t it? ;-)

Whatever the mode of transport to Bersenbrück you might find yourself cursing those same winds when playing on the town’s 18-hole golf course. Then again, you very well could be a happy golfer if they improve your game. ;-)

Of course golf hadn’t even been “invented” when Bersenbrück’s Cistercian monastery was founded by Otto & Sophia von Ravensberg back in 1231.

The kloster was a constant in Bersenbrück for 556 years before finally closing its doors on monastic life. But, the building of the monastery is still standing more than 200 years after that — so lucky you, you get to see it.

Even older than the monastery is St. Vincent’s Church. It was built sometime in the 12th century, in what’s been called a “transitional style between Romanesque and Gothic.” You know what I say? Who cares ’cause good old St. Vince’s is simply splendid.

The religious sites keep on coming in Bersenbrück. In the village of Rieste there’s a 14th century crucifix, and the Emmaus and Marie Chapels.

Along the Steingräberweg, which is called the Prehistoric and Green Trail you’ll find burial mounds that are around 4,000 years old. Makes the churches and chapels seem downright wet behind the ears, doesn’t it? ;-)

Being out in the Lower Saxon countryside is quite nice, so make sure you head to the Ark Farmhouse that has both a petting zoo and pony rides.

Two cultural stops I must recommend are the Stiftshof, a museum dedicated to rural life as well as having art exhibitions that constantly change; or the Heritage House that has an 18th century bake house.

Yikes! I almost left out the District Museum — a local history museum of sorts; and the Klosterpforte — the town’s landmark which was built in 1700. How could I ever forget to include that?

I guess those North Sea winds kind of scrambled my brain for a few minutes there. ;-)

Bühlertal — Wine And Sports Town In The Northern Black Forest

August 5th, 2011

For centuries many of the world’s rich and famous have come to the Black Forest for rest and relaxation. But, the Black Forest is a pretty big place; so I guess I should be more precise. They came to places like Bühlertal (right to the southwest of posh Baden-Baden); just as they still do.

You’ll find this health resort town in the northern part of the Schwarzwald just about where it turns into the Upper Rhine Valley (from mountains to flat land, I’d say).

Bühlertal was once a big agricultural kind of town where fields of tobacco (cigar making was once big business), strawberries, and plum trees stretched as far as the eye could see.

Tobacco cultivation might not be as big as it once was, as the fields have been replaced with grapes. You know what that means, wine; lots and lots of wine.

Oh, I feel better already. ;-)

I do have to tell you there are a few activities that you might prefer to wait on drinking the vino, since your coordination might be a bit off. Tennis at one of Bühlertal’s tennis courts is one, wintertime skiing is another.

Also in the winter is a fantastic outdoor ice skating rink to glide on. Yeah, better wait on the wine drinking until after you’re done here, too.

I really like the heated outdoor swimming pool, just as I know you will.

Bühlertal has a super fun BMX track complete with jump ramps; and there’s a large sports center with a restaurant in case you get hungry running, jumping, and playing.

Running can be fun, which is why every July there’s the Hornisgrinde Marathon. You don’t have to actually run the marathon, just come to cheer on the runner.

Watching all those runners can make you hungry, so why not find one of the many BBQ pits (grill huts as they’re also called) for a nice picnic.

Now with sufficient nourishment you’ve got the energy to see Bühlertal’s local history museum and craft village with exhibits on blacksmithing and the area’s history.

Hmm, how can you rest and relax with all these activities to do? I guess you’ll need a vacation from your vacation. A few glasses of wine from Bühlertal could accomplish that. :-)

Berg (Starnberg) — The Mad King And A Book Burning Writer

August 5th, 2011

There must be something in the water along Lake Starnberg in the Upper Bavarian town of Berg (Starnberg). Maybe it’s the Upper Bavarian sunshine? Whatever it is, it attracts (or did attract) some of the most creative minds in Germany.

Berg is home to many of Germany’s actresses, football players, singers, politicians, and writers. So, if you’re not from around these parts, chances are you could be rubbing elbows with some of Germany’s celebrated folks, and not even know it.

I pay little attention to these things, preferring to see Berg’s historical significance.

One famous resident was none other than mad King Ludwig II. You remember him, don’t you? He built the famous Neuschwanstein Castle.

His summer palace, the Schloss Berg, is where his body washed ashore under mysterious circumstances on June 13, 1886.

At the site of where his body was found a small chapel was erected. It’s known as the Votive Chapel; and there’s a wooden cross there as well.

Sorry, you can’t visit the schloss; it’s home to the Duke of Bavaria; and only part of the castle’s park is open to the general public.

Did I mention that it’s King Ludwig III’s grandson that lives here in Berg? Oh, I guess I just did.

Another famous person that came from Berg am Starnberger See was writer Oskar Maria Graf, who was born in the village of Santa Maria (where you can see his house). His books got the attention of the Nazis during the 1930’s, which they tried to burn.

He eventually went on to live in the USA, where he died in 1967. He is interred in a cemetery in Munich.

The mad king and a 20th century writer isn’t why you’re here, is it? No, you want to see Lake Starnberg, don’t you?

You better be staying for a while, because there’s a lot to do. Sailing is the biggest sport on the lake; but there’s also diving, canoeing, water skiing, and fishing. Land lubbers will appreciate the 46km circular hiking (or cycling) trail that rides around the shore.

Come to think of it… Perhaps it’s the tales spun by the curious demise of one of Germany’s most famous kings; or all the fun you can have here in Berg that keeps bringing everyone to this part of Upper Bavaria.

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