One thing I know for sure, is the Lusatian Neisse (Lausitzer Neiße in German) wasn’t an easy river to navigate. That’s in the figurative sense, since no motorboats are allowed on this river at any point (special permission is needed if you’re doing non-motorized boating).

The Lausitzer Neiße might be “only” 254km long, but it makes it way through three countries, starting in the Czech Republic in the Jizera Mountains.

Fifty-five kilometers later, the Lusatian Neisse finds its way to Germany and the Polish borders in Zittau. The Sky Bridge will take you from the German side to the Polish side; and one of the many bridges found over the next 198km between the two countries.

There used to be plenty more, but sadly too many of them were blown up by all the fighting in WWII. Some were eventually rebuilt, and some are still undergoing restoration and renovation.

Back to Zittau (and the Lusatian Neisse), which meet the Via Sacra and the Lausitzweg (Lusatia Trail) at this point.

We keep going in a northerly direction to Görlitz, and the Old Town Bridge (didn’t I tell you). The Pedestrian Bridge is overlooked by the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul, and at the Marienplatz you’ll find the Dicker Turm, a fountain, and the Anna Chapel.

The route of the Lausitzer Neiße doesn’t change, but after visiting Bad Muskau we leave Saxony behind, heading into Brandenburg.

Before all that happens, let’s see what this spa town offers. Hmm, how about the ruins a 13th century church? What about the Old and New Palaces? I know I’ll take all the half-timbered houses.

So, Brandenburg it is too when we’re in Neiße-Malxetal. The Malx River empties here, so the Lusatian Neisse picks up its first of its eight tributaries.

No wonder the Lusatian Neisse is the largest of the four Neiße Rivers.

I take that back, it is the longest of the Neiße Rivers.

The Lausitzer Neiße’s record setting in Neiße-Malxetal is accentuated by the animal park, and three nature reserve areas.

It’s still Brandenburg for the Lusatian Neisse in Forst (Lausitz), but the river has somehow managed to drop to 72 meters above sea level, from its original height of 655 meters.

That’s quite a long way to come down, and it still has a way to go (eventually to 32 meters). But, that changes nothing for Forst’s Village Church in the hamlet of Groß Bademeusel, the Textile Museum, or the Rose Garden Festival on the last weekend of June.

In Ratzdorf the Lausitzer Neiße finishes its trek at the mouth of the Oder River. The 350 residents of this village are no stranger to the flooding that has occurred here time and time again.

The levees of the rivers have been rebuilt to keep the place from sustaining any more flood damage, but I’m so glad the old church is still here. It doesn’t look like much, for all its grey stone and little windows, but that’s all part of its charm.

At least I think so. ;-)

I hope I’ve managed to make “navigating” your way around this tri-country river a bit easier. Just be aware of which bridge you cross-because for 198km the Lusatian Neisse is an international border.

FYI, the area of this river was a hotly debated subject after Germany’s reunification. Poland was afraid that Germany would request its pre-1945 border that stretched further east than the Lusatian Neisse.

Didn’t happen, but worth mentioning nonetheless.

I’m just lettin’ you know about the bridges, because you can’t leave Germany yet — we got so much more stuff to see together… ;-)

Only a literary geek like myself would first think of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes and Moriarty when mentioning the name Reichenbach.

Yes, I’m aware his story took place at the Reichenbach Falls in Switzerland, and this one is in the Upper Lusatian region of Saxony (hence its epithet, Oberlausitz), but after today the German one might come first to the brain.

Known as Rychbach in Upper Sorbian, the town itself is a handful of hamlets in the Görlitz District, just a stone’s throw from Poland. And most recently, it had a new addition to when Sohland am Rotstein was incorporated on January 1, 2014.

Reichenbach’s latest addition added some primo sightseeing, including a windmill, the engineering marvel of its viaduct railway, its Dorfkirche (Village Church) from the 1840s, and the Rotstein — said to be the oldest nature reserve area in all of Saxony.

Another of Reichenbach’s villages is Zoblitz (a.k.a. Sobołsk), found on the former border marking Saxony and Prussia. These days the village is home to just over 200 people, but the chevron markings of its old border are still here.

Long before there was a Prussia, the medieval Via Regia once ran right on through. This “protected” highway, under order of the King, once ran through 5 countries of the Holy Roman Empire. For some reason the royally protected road wasn’t so important after Napoleon got his French tush kicked back to France — but it’s still nice to know you’re walking on a path once used by everyone from medieval peasants to Napoleon himself.

Oh, did I forget to mention his French troops fought the Russians here? Oops… ;-)

A number of places were here in Napoleon’s day, like the City Church Johannis. The original church was constructed in the 12th/13th centuries, but thanks to a fire the whole thing had to be rebuilt in 1670. And Castle Krobnitz was here, a graceful white Baroque mansion from the 18th century.

Ahh, yes, the Evangelical Church in the village of Meuselwitz was here in his day — come to think of it, it’s been here since 1424, almost four centuries before the French dude showed up. Too bad the Hussitentor and the town’s fortified walls from the 15th century didn’t keep him out.

Well, no time to think of that now — it’s off to the water park. Its 24 meter slide is a whole lotta fun, whereas the Fire Museum and Ackerbürgermuseum are educational.

It’s all right there’s no Sherlock to be found here in this Reichenbach, but with everything there is to do, you won’t notice.

It’s back to Hesse for me, this time to the town of Wehretal. What’s great about this place, is even though you’re just 50km southeast of the city of Kassel, you’ll feel a million kilometers away from all that hustle and bustle of a big city. And that’s a good thing.

The five villages (or districts, if you so will) are full of rolling hills and well-marked hiking trails. The wooded areas are perfect for a well deserved rest after hiking the day away.

And if that’s not strenuous enough for you, you can even try mountain biking. There are some 23 different bike routes through the Wehretal region, comprising some 780km of trails (that’s NOT a misprint). Just be sure to stop along the way to read all the information boards about the area, and there are plenty of rest stops along the way if you get tired.

Wehretal’s routes aren’t limited to just local trails, either. Did you know the Pilgerweg, Elisabethpfad, Jakobsweg, and Barbarossaweg all come through here? No, I didn’t either until today.

What I did know was there are some pretty churches to be found here. One of the oldest is found in the village of Reichensachsen, whose pretty Protestant Church has been here since the Middle Ages. Ok, so what if it had some major renovation work done to it through the years — it’s still a Romanesque church at heart.

Reichensachsen isn’t just famous for its medieval church. Come the third weekend of June, there’s a huge five day festival (Heimat und Wichtelfest) that ends with everyone coming for an early morning brunch on the last day. Oh yeah, five days of music, drinking, and eating… why hasn’t the whole world heard of this? Maybe if everyone reads this, they will. ;-)

You couldn’t ask for a better place to party, or to get away from it all in Hesse.

Over forty years ago the hamlet of Birkendorf won the coveted “Unser Dorf soll schöner werden,” or Our Village is Beautiful contest.

Let me tell you something… Even though it’s now known as the town of Ühlingen-Birkendorf, it hasn’t lost any of its luster.

See, some things get better with age. Ok, maybe the fact that Ühlingen-Birkendorf lies within the gorgeous southern Black Forest has something to do with it. ;-)

That just makes it wonderful to all sorts of outdoorsy stuff, wouldn’t you say? Winter’s just a good as season as any, so be sure to wear something warm as you’re out skiing (both downhill and cross-country), snowshoeing, or just take a winter hike.

Of course if you’d prefer it a bit warmer — then you’ve got other recreational fun to have. The Naturena Badesee, for starters, is a “forested” pool, where you can jump from rocks or play some beach volleyball. Oh, and the water is purified naturally — so no harsh chemicals.

Those wishing to stay dry could try the toboggan run (super fun careening down the mountainside), give a lake cruise a whirl, or visit the animals at the nearby Black Forest Animal Park. Listen, the Rothauser Land (as it’s known around here) has lots to offer the whole family — especially if they like hiking, cycling, or a game of miniature golf.

Ühlingen-Birkendorf is also great if you love a good beer. You’re close enough to the Staatsbrauerei Rothaus, a place that’s been brewing German beer goodness for more than 200 years. Call ahead for an appointment to see how the whole modern day operation works.

And what’s beer without some kind of celebration to drink it? Ühlingen-Birkendorf has all sorts of festive events — right down to the Witches Ball, Rosenmontag Parades, the Osterfest, and the wonderful Tanz in den Mai (Dance into May) celebrations.

Yes, Ühlingen-Birkendorf, you’re still gorgeous after all these years — and I think you’ll just keep getting better and better as more time goes on.

Rumor has it the town of Tiefenbronn is one of the best places to be to see the Northern Black Forest. Let’s think about that for a minute…

Ok, I’d have to say that’s a pretty accurate statement since Tiefenbronn sits right on the edge of it.

The Schwarzwald is but one facet to Tiefenbronn, albeit a good one; any one of the town’s hiking routes is surely to delight. There are four marked hiking trails, taking anywhere from just over an hour to almost four.

Route #1 starts at the pretty half-timbered Kulturhaus Rose, taking you around to see the famous St. Mary Magdalene Church. The church itself is over 600 years old, but its exterior isn’t its crowning glory. That honor is reserved for its magnificent altar, created by Lukas Moser, way back in 1431.

The town’s other trails will take you over to see the St. Alexander Church, another lovely gem from the 15th century; followed by a stop to what used to be a moated castle. And in the village of Lehningen are remnants of its old defense walls, as well as the St. Ottilia Church, built only a few years after St. Alexander’s in 1500.

Now that I think about it, that’s about the time Burg Steinegg was built. Today it’s a recreation center, a long cry from its days belonging to some Count or Duke.

Hopefully I have this part right, but Tiefenbronn was the hometown of noted Dr. Franz Josef Gall. His work with Phrenology (some study of the brain and head size thing) was really pushing the envelope of his day. He might not have had it all right back in the 18th century, but his unprecedented work deserves kudos — no wonder Tiefenbronn put a plaque on his old house.

From here it’s probably best to try hiking around the nature reserve areas. What a wonderful place to see rare plants, animals, and the ever popular orchids.

Didn’t I say this was a florishing gate to the Black Forest? Believe me now? ;-)

Known as a “bedroom community” for Erlangen, the town of Hemhofen is anything but sleepy. Not that the town is hopping with nightclubs and excitement 24-hours/7-days a week kind of thing — but it isn’t without stuff to see and do.

One of the most noticeable things in Hemhofen are its old buildings along Hauptstraße (many from the 17th & 18th centuries), and Schloss Hemhofen, built in 1722. While it might’ve started off as a traditional castle, I can’t help thinking it has a “government building” kind of feel to it these days.

Oh well, nevermind, its off to another historical site, the old Jewish Cemetery in the village of Zeckern. I heard it’s one of the oldest cemeteries of its kind here in Bavaria, and used for burials for some 400 years. Within the cemetery you’ll find a Taharahaus (used for proper Jewish burials) and a memorial stone to those who lost their lives to the Nazis.

While there’s not too much else to see in Hemhofen, it doesn’t mean you’re done. You could plan accordingly so you’re here for the Dorffest, or Village Festival. Festivities kick off with a traditional church service, but the party only takes place on odd-numbered years.

Hey, at least the Kirchweih Hemhofen and Kirchweih Zeckern take place annually. Hemhofen’s party is three days of fun in May, while Zeckern’s is another three days of partying in June. Sweet!

Then again, Germans love some peace & quiet, so if you’re in search of solitude the nearby Markwald is perfect. The area is just fantastic for hiking — so comfortable shoes are a must. You’ll certainly need them if you’re going to hike as far as nearby Schloss Thurn and the 16th century Schloss von Bibra. ;-)

All this hiking makes you hungry, and you’re never short of finding something good to eat here. Your choice if you’d rather have Italian, Turkish, or local cuisine to munch on.

Not too bad for a town that’s not even seven square kilometers, is it? Yeah, I thought so too.

Have you ever heard the tale about finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow? As a kid I would look tirelessly for rainbows, never to find the end, or that ever elusive pot of gold.

That was, until, I followed that rainbow all the way to Steinbach-Hallenberg in Thuringia#.

No, I didn’t find some cache of gold — I just realized what a treasure this town truly is. Located just 4km from the Rennsteig, and along the Thuringian Forest, Steinbach-Hallenberg, this is definitely my kind of place.

It’s a whole lot of other people’s kind of place too, as it’s a state-recognized leisure area. What exactly does that mean to you?

Oh, how about all the challenging and fun outdoor recreational activities? Nordic Walking is really popular here, and pole rentals are easily available. Of course you need poles, otherwise it’s just hiking. ;-)

As for hiking, you’re bound to find one to love. The trails are known as the Yellow Square Trail (going around Arnsberg); the Green Square (towards the Kieferle); Green Triangle (through the Moosbachtal); and even a circular route that’ll just take you around and around.

The trails are great, but you still haven’t given mountain biking a try, taken a carriage ride, or rented a bicycle. And if you’re here in the winter months, then it’s all about cross-country skiing, snowboarding, or alpine skiing.

Steinbach-Hallenberg’s greatness isn’t finished at the end of your last ski run, ya know. The town is home to its own castle ruin. The Hallenburg was built around 1268, but is believed to be much older. Sadly no records are available to tell us who built this formidable structure, but we do know it was destroyed long before the Thirty Years’ War.

A historic town tour is a good way to learn more, as are the guided hikes offered. And there’s plenty more to educational stuff at the Metallhandwerksmuseum (Metal Crafts Museum), offering exhibits on smelting and tools. The museum even offers workshops, if you’re so inclined.

Sorry, not me. I’ll take going to Steinbach-Hallenberg’s Castle Festival (June), its Kirmes (September), and its Advent Festival (early December) instead.

All of this is what makes Steinbach-Hallenberg the proverbial pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, wouldn’t you say?

All right, my second town in Bavaria this week whose hometown son’s story caught my attention. But, Barbing is much more than just the hometown of Johann Michael Sailer — it’s a place in the Upper Palatinate with old churches, hiking areas around the Danube, and quite a history to it.

I mentioned Johann Michael Sailer first, so let’s talk about him for a minute…

Born the son of a shoemaker, Johann went on to become a noted bishop and writer, and even worked with Beethoven himself. Now do you see why he’s worth mentioning?

As for being a writer, one look at the crumbling brick of the abandoned 13th century church is enough to inspire all kinds of words to paper. And its windows might be bricked up, but it doesn’t take too much of an imagination to envision what it looked like during the Middle Ages.

There are quite a number of old churches still in use around Barbing. My favorite is the bright ocher-colored Church of St. Martin in Illkofen.

Many of the town’s other churches kind of look a bit like St. Martin’s, but there’s only one that sticks out in my mind — maybe you’ll like St. Mary’s in Friesheim, or St. Laurentius in Elthem better.

Who knows, art and architecture are subjective, are they not? ;-)

There’s no debating the Sarchinger Weiher can be loved by everyone. The lake, open from 6am-11pm, is great for days and evenings of swimming, barbecuing, and beach volleyball fun.

If you really like the water, then hike around the Danube. The area’s known as the “smallest wine region in Germany,” so I guess that means hiking around the vineyards would be lovely as well.

History lovers might revel in knowing Friedrich Barbarossa, ruler of the Holy Roman Empire & King of Italy, stopped here during one of his Crusades campaigns. Sounds like a long time ago, doesn’t it? Well, how’s this for old, when doing some construction, prehistoric graves were found dating back 4,000-2,000 B.C. Makes you wanna dig around in the dirt to find something that incredible yourself, doesn’t it?

Not me, I’d rather hit up one of the theaters, or take in a music performance — for which there are plenty going on in Barbing.

I told you there’s more to Barbing than just one of Beethoven’s buddies. ;-)

Whew, I don’t think I’m ever going to finish my way through all of Germany’s towns and villages — especially when some of them are as big as Mockrehna; because when you combine its nine villages it’s over 115 square kilometers, making it one of the largest in the region.

Since I don’t have anything else to do today, I might as well start picking at what’s to see and do in town.

What I really noticed the most about Mockrehna are its village churches. I’m a sucker for a medieval one, so off to see the Romanesque one dedicated to St. Peter in the village of Audenhain.

Audenhain, by the way, also has a Local History Museum; and is mostly known for its Paltrockwindmühle and Wine Festival.

The village of Klitzschen is another of Mockrehna’s hamlets with a Romanesque Church — this one a gem made from stone. Every October Klitzschen hosts a Fish Festival, and it also has its own Christmas Market.

While Strelln’s church doesn’t look like a medieval one since its Baroque renovations, though it’s still a 12th century one at heart. And the village you see today is much more pleasant than it was used to be in the early 1700s when it was in the grips of scary witch hunts.

On a more pleasant note, Mockrehna is found around the Dübener Heide Nature Park. Not that you’ll have time to explore the 770 square kilometers of this awesome nature area — but try to hike or bike around its moorlands and lakes.

Some of the town’s cultural events are even more pleasant. Take the Silvesterball (on New Year’s Eve), for instance. Or, come join in all the festivities at Carnival, and party like a German at the Lindenfest (end of June). If you got little ones traveling with you, then maybe the Baum und Kinderfest (April 30/May 1) might be the right party for you.

Then again, with Mockrehna being as big as it is, you’re bound to find something that’s just perfect for you.

There are quite a number of things that make me (or anyone else for that matter) happy to visit the town of Neukirch (Lausitz). The outdoorsy stuff you’ll find here is absolutely first-rate; and as for the historical stuff, you’re bound to learn a thing or two.

The very best place to start any trip to Neukirch is its Tourist Office, located at Hauptstraße 20. The folks here are able to tell you all about the awesome bicycle trails, like the Umgebindehaus-Radweg (yea, try saying that fast five times). This 100km scenic route follows along to some of the most outstanding Umgebindehäuser (it’s a type of half-timbered construction) found throughout the region.

Didn’t I tell ya, you’d learn something new?

And good thing this isn’t a one-pony show, there are many other bike trails found throughout Upper Lusatia. For instance, I also like the the 32km Weinbrand Route, a trail that’s all about the Brandy. Or the short 3km Waldlernpfad that’s all about plants and animals residing in the forest.

Neukirch isn’t lacking in the hiking trails either. Some of the long-distance trails will bring you over the Upper Lusatian and the Zittau Mountains.

If walking and cycling isn’t for you, then good thing there are horse rides you can take through the area. And if you’re totally into the whole winter sport thing, you’ll find cross country skiing trails, downhill skiing, and even snowmobiling. I think they even guarantee snow days here…

No matter what season it is, you’re sure to love the scenery. Neukirch (more specifically the Valtenberg) sits some 586 meter above sea level, and if you climb the Valtenbergturm you’re 25 meters higher — the view from this height is astounding.

Oh, I think I can see the Czech Republic from here. Wait, it probably is, since the border is only one town away… ;-)

As for Neukirch’s historical side, it’s where the Battle of Bautzen took place in 1813 (and Bautzen itself is only 12km away). You’ll also see a bunch of exhibits at the Local History Museum (so long as you call ahead for an appointment), and everyone’s welcome to services at the Evangelical Lutheran Church — a church that took some thirty years to build in the 1700s.

There’s even a castle in nearby Doberschau-Gaußig, the Schloss Gaußig. This Baroque castle looks quite different from its start as a medieval one, and its 30 hectare English Garden is nothing short of lovely.

Thanks, Neukirch(Lausitz), for teaching me something new — and treating me to some of the best countryside in all of eastern Germany.