Büchenbach — Grab A Hun For Middle Franconian Fun

April 20th, 2015

Here’s something you might not have known, the town of Büchenbach is known as the Gateway to the Sagenwanderweg in an area known as the Heideberg.

Whoo-hoo, the Heideberg, what’s the big deal — isn’t just some forested area in the Middle Franconian countryside of typical hiking trails and bike paths? How’s that different from other parts of Germany with kinda the same thing?

Well, legend says none other than the infamous Attila the Hun is buried here. Ha, didn’t see that coming, did you? ;-)

Whether that’s true, or not, doesn’t really matter — it makes for good story telling. Besides, it could very well be the truth since no one knows exactly where this 5th century warrior died, or was born for that matter. Doesn’t change the fact his “empire” stretched across Europe and parts of Asia.

As for that Sagenwanderweg, or Legend Trail, the route through the Heideberg follows along some 14 km with over 20 “stations” chocked full of information about the area.

I don’t pretend to be an expert about the region, but I do know quite a few of Büchenbach’s villages have Carolingian beginnings. In more simple terms, that’s around the 8th century. Life in Büchenbach during the Middle Ages revolved around agriculture, and not too much has changed over the centuries. Villages like Breitenlohe are still farming tobacco, and with the dense forest surrounding the place, there hasn’t been too much urban expansion.

Be sure you’ve got your cameras ready at a moment’s notice, you’ll find yourself taking lots of snapshots as you pass one pretty farmstead after another while you’re meandering around. Don’t forget to visit the medieval cemetery chapel in Kühedorf while you’re out there, OK?

Inasmuch as Büchenbach is steeped in legend, and a picturesque landscape, it’s also a place full of terrific cultural events throughout the year. It seems the entire month of July just has one religious em>Kirchweih event after another (in the villages of Breitenlohe, Aurau, and Büchenbach proper), and that’s in addition to the annual Summer Festival.

Can’t make that one? No biggie, there’s yet another Summer Festival in August, followed by the Kürbismarkt (Pumpkin Market but selling all kinds of other goodies like honey and potatoes) in September, and a Christmas Market on the first weekend of Advent.

Things might be a tad different in Büchenbach from when Attila was running things, but I think he’d have enjoyed everything there is to see and do. Don’t you?

Külsheim — City of Fountains, And Wine

April 17th, 2015

Known as the Stadt der Brunnen (City of Fountains), the town of Külsheim is found in the very north of Baden-Württemberg, not all that far from the Bavarian border. It’s location is important, how else are you going to find it. ;-)

Another thing about its location is the town is all into the wine thing. Yup, every year the town chooses its Wine Queen at the Külsheimer Wine Festival in July, and even offer guided Wine Hikes and Wine Bike Tours for anyone interested.

There’s more to Külsheim than just its viticulture — right, remember about the whole being a City of Fountains? There are eighteen of them, with names like the William Grimm Fountain, Römerbadbrunnen, and Chapel Fountain. As beautiful as these are, they’re even more lovely around Easter, when they’re brightly decorated for the holiday.

I know, the wine and the fountains are reason enough to come, but I think you need to see the Chirotherium, too. These are 240-million year old fossil footprints, made by some prehistoric lizard of some sort. And I think you should come see the pretty pink-hued Templar House from the 14th century; although it wasn’t that color way back then.

The 14th century seems pretty gosh darn old, but the Keep of the Külsheimer Schloss is more than a thousand years old. Today its tower stands as the town’s landmark, while the castle itself is now a government building.

Is this enough for you? No? Good, because Külsheim still has more to offer both local and visitor alike. Come August, everyone gears up for the 5-day Großer Markt, and every April is the Spring Fair, however it is only every three years the Medieval Market takes place. The one in May 2013 was a very big hit.

Oh well, you’ll just have to keep yourself busy hiking or biking along the many marked trails through town. The Geological Trail is short, just 5.5 km; while the Baden & Bavarian Imperial Trail is a whopping 23 km.

What a wonderful town the City of Fountains turned out to be, maybe they should have named it the City of Awesomeness. ;-)

Hollfeld — The Choice Is Simple In Franconian Switzerland

April 17th, 2015

Do you know the best thing about choices? For me, the best thing about choices — is well, choice; I’m not limited to just one thing.

Gimme a minute before jumping up asking: Marcus, have you lost your mind? I have, but not for the reasons you might think. The reasons I’m mentioning choices, because there are quite a few in regards to the Franconian town of Hollfeld.

Your first choice is, do you take a guided tour around town, or do you do it yourself? If you choose the former, you best be at the Rathaus (Town Hall) on Saturday mornings to get in on a tour. Don’t worry too much, it’ll only cost you a few Euro, which is money well spent.

Or, if you’re more independent, you can choose to tramp around Hollfeld’s twenty-four districts all on your own. Either way, the sights and sounds and smells will all be (pretty much) the same. No tour (guided or otherwise) should be without seeing the Blauer Turm, a bright blue tower that used to be a brewery.

Beer and Franconia, go figure. ;-)

Anyway, there’s no missing the town’s Salvatorkirche. This isn’t just any ordinary church, mind you, legend says Jesus himself appeared on this very spot — which explains why the townsfolk built the original pilgrimage church more than a thousand years ago.

You’d think this would be Hollfeld’s landmark, but that’s reserved for the Gangolfskirche — another medieval church steeped in legends and lore.

As much as it pains me to say, you can’t spend your entire visit going from church to church, you’re gonna have to go outside to get the full Hollfeld experience. Warmer weather gives you fields of yellow flowers, vast green fields, and plenty of hiking opportunities on either the Blue Dot Trail or Yellow Dot Trail.

Hooray, more choices! And there are plenty of shopping choices at the Wochenmarkt (Weekly Market), held at the Marienplatz every Friday morning from 9am-noon.

There’s even opportunities to learn a few things in Hollfeld, go visit the town’s museum to find out more about beekeeping, among other things. If you don’t mind, I’ll take a trek over see the two nearby castles, Schloss Freienfels and Burg Wiesentfels. Too bad there isn’t anything left of Stadtburg Hollfeld, I love thousand year old castles. Who doesn’t?

As you can see, a visit to Hollfeld offers up a number of choices to see and do plenty in the pretty part of the Franconian Switzerland — so it’s easy to see why Hollfeld’s the right choice for everyone.

Saal an der Donau — Even Neanderthal Man Knew Its Virtues

April 17th, 2015

When it came down to it, I was totally fascinated by the town of Saal an der Donau, located right on the banks of the Danube River — as its name suggests.

There’s something to be said for walking the same ground as not just the Celts, Romans, and even Johann Wolfgang von Goethe — but Neanderthal Man as well.

Ok, ok, ok, that was a wee bit out of order in terms of who was here when, but they obviously knew a good thing when they saw it.

Too bad there isn’t anything from as far back as Neanderthal Man, the Celts, and Romans — but there’s stuff here back when Goethe was here. Just think, this famous German writer could have been standing in the very same spot staring at the Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture of the St. Sebastian Church as you.

As there are some fifteen villages to Saal an der Donau, you’ll find just about that many churches to see. Why churches? Because where else will you see late Gothic architecture, like the Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) in places like Obersaal?

However, not being one to spend anymore time indoors than necessary in Lower Bavaria, I gotta tell you about biking along the Danube Bike Path (Donauradweg) — a wonderful way of experiencing both the town and river. And both the Abensradweg and Esperbachtalradweg are two other routes to see the wonders that await.

You should consider yourself exceptionally lucky if you’re in town for the annual Palm Sunday Procession. Townsfolk and clergy perform the Passion of Christ carrying flags, crosses, and even statues through town as people line the streets to see it all. It’s a totally different vibe from its World War II days when a sub-camp of the Flossenbürg Concentration Camp was located here.

Luckily today’s Saal (Danube) is a much brighter place to be. Come visit, I’ll meet you here. ;-)

Langquaid — Living With Birds In Lower Bavaria

April 16th, 2015

What is it with the town of Langquaid and birds? I’m not complaining or anything, it was only a question. However, you know I’m leading into something, right? Anyway, my first glimpse about this town was on a warm spring day, and on the lookout for the famous storks that call this place home.

No storks around? No problem, go see the Poultry Garden — it’s got all kinds of waterfowl and chickens.

What I found in addition to all the birds, was a town of old churches, as well as some great hiking trails through the Lower Bavarian countryside. I’d say it was a win-win, wouldn’t you?

Being the history lover I am, why not start with those churches? The Middle Ages in (and around) Langquaid saw a building boom of them, like the old Augustinian monastery Church of St. Michael, which has a blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The same thing is going on at the Church of St. Jacob, but this one saw a Baroque renovation in the 18th century.

Ha-ha, if you think your church tour is over yet, it’s not. Don’t balk, how else will you see the late-Gothic (13th century) Church of St. Wolfgang, and the Romanesque Church of St. Agatha?

Technically more modern, yet still “historical,” is the town’s Marktplatz, surrounded by buildings from over three centuries (17th, 18th, and 19th). This is the place to be if you want to find out more about Langquaid’s great festivals — like the Bürgerfest (an every other year event in June). The one in 2013 brought thousands of folks to town on a quest for a good time.

So what if you came on an even-numbered year — just try to plan your trip around the second weekend in October for the Hellring-Dult, a multi-day event of food and fun.

As with most Germans, we appreciate a good party but still like peace & quiet. If you do too, then I’d say you’ll absolutely love all its hiking trails. Some are short (like the 3 km Nature Trail with information on water’s vital role in the area), or the 6 km Waldlehrpfad where you can learn about the forest, or the longer 15 km Legends & Fairytales Route along the Laabertal — where I’m sure you see plenty more birds. ;-)

Guxhagen — Northern Hesse For History And Nature

April 15th, 2015

Located just 15 kilometers south of Kassel, the town of Guxhagen is a well-blended town of outdoor recreational fun and history. And sometimes with history, you take the good with the bad, right?

You’ll find both at the Kloster Breitenau, a stunning example of Romanesque architecture from the 12th century. Oh, this old Benedictine monastery has seen its fair share of the ugliness of war — it was sacked and pillaged during both the Thirty Years’ War and Seven Years’ War, but it’s more infamously known as a Concentration Camp from World War II. You’ll find a permanent exhibition on its days of housing political opponents of the Nazis.

FYI, if you’re into German/Jewish history, you’ll find Guxhagen once had its own synagogue from the 19th century — while not a religious building any longer, it still stands.

As old as the monastery is, that’s nothing compared to the age of the Menhir von Wellen — which is almost 4,000 years old. What makes this massive stone unique is its red sandstone composition, and its patterned design.

As I previously mentioned, Guxhagen is wonderful for enjoying the great outdoors. You’re so close to the Habichtswald Nature Park, the Meißner-Kaufungerwald Nature Park, and the Nature Park Kellerwald Edersee — meaning, there’s plenty of opportunities to find just the right hiking or cycling trail.

Your best bet is to get a map, available for just a few Euro. Trust me, it’ll help.

Another wonderful outdoor activity in Guxhagen is canoeing along the Eder and Fulda Rivers — where you’re able to plan simple day trips, or a more extended weekend of just moseying along at a leisurely pace.

When you get tired it’s always possible to camp out. Guxhagen’s camping/RV area is top-notch, with a place to go fishing or hit up a beer garden. Or, do both, of course.

Now can we go back in time to those wars telling folks to stop fighting as this place would have become even more beautiful?

Hanstedt (Nordheide) — Hanging Around For The Heide Shuttle

April 14th, 2015

Just 35 km south of Hamburg are the four districts of the town of Hanstedt (Nordheide). I think I mean the Samtgemeinde Hanstedt — confusing, yes?

What’s not confusing is Hanstedt lies along the Lüneburg Heath, filled with almost 200 kilometers of trails for hiking, Nordic Walking, and biking.

No problem if you’ve wandered too far, every year from June to October the Heide Shuttle runs along a 3-ring route to pick you up, or drop you off — it even has a bike trailer hitched to the back of the bus.

Did I mention it’s free? Ha, an even better deal! ;-)

Before you’re off to other places around the Lüneburg Heath, it’s best to stick around for a little while. No one is saying you gotta hike all 44 km of the Pastor-Bode-Weg, but a leisurely horseback ride would be nice.

A visit to the Local History Museum (in the town of Egestor) is also a good place to start — and if you don’t believe me, go ask at the Tourist Information Center. I’d bet they’ll tell you to see the Art Bossard, a museum that also hosts all kinds of concerts and special exhibitions.

Some people might consider architecture a form of art — and I must be one of them, because I loved the half-timbered St. Magdalen Church in the village of Undeloh, the Lutheran St. Jakobi Church is quite pretty, and there’s yet another church to see — St. Stephen’s in Egestorf.

All this sightseeing and physical activity work up a hearty appetite, so thankfully there are restaurants serving up yummy seasonal and regional cuisine. According to one Lutheran Pastor, German food isn’t particularly spicy (rich, hearty, but certainly not spicy), it seems kind of strange to celebrate a Chili Festival in the Heide every June. Oh yeah, pass the 5-alarm chili — and add more hot pepper, if you please. Where’s the nearest beer garden to wash it all down? ;-)

No big deal if chili’s not your thing, you’re more than welcome to grill your own bratwust at the BBQ areas at Egestorf’s swimming area — in addition to a day of water splashing fun.

Hanstedt might be confusing with its name, is it a town itself or a Collective Municipality — but whatever name it chooses to use, it’s a fantastic place to enjoy the Lüneburg Heath Nature Park, the wonders of Hamburg, and the beauty of art.

Forget the Heide Shuttle, I think it’s a good idea to hang around here for a while longer.

Affing — Churches, Castles, Airplanes

April 13th, 2015

There are two certainties in this life: death and taxes.

Now that’s not a good way to start off, is it? Well, let me put a spin on it. There are two certainties when it comes to the town of Affing: you’ll find amazing churches and the remains of what were once medieval castles.

Intrigued now? I thought you would be. ;-)

Perhaps you’re also intrigued to know that the town lies just northeast of Augsburg, with the Augsburg Airport [AGB] right between.

Wanna know something historical? Affing’s history is much older than its medieval days, found by the Roman artifacts and millennia old graves. But, I’m not here for all that — I’m fascinated by a town with so many exquisite churches, and where you’re able to reach a higher spiritual plane on a devotional hike or two.

It’s hard to pick the prettiest, but I’d have to say its the Pfarrkirche or Parish Church of Sts. Lawrence and Elisabeth. The ceiling frescoes in the choir are heavenly, but it is the High Altar that takes your breath away — surrounded by marble, the altar painting is nothing short of sublime.

Another of Affing’s must-see churches isn’t technically a church at all, it’s a chapel. The Salzberg Kapelle, a mid-17th century structure, is famous for its Baroque wooden statues, but it’s the statue of the Virgin Mary that touches you beyond words.

I’ll tell you what else touched me, the Schlossgut Iglhof. This old crumbly stone and brick castle/farm building has seen so much over the last 900 years. It has been rebuilt a few times over the centuries, and it was totally destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War.

The twelfth century saw a building boom in Affing, it’s when no less than three nearby castles were built. Sadly, the Burgstall Miedering, Burgstall Haunswies, and Burgstall Mühlhausen didn’t manage to survive more than just a couple hundred years max. While nothing at all remains of these medieval buildings, you can still enjoy the countryside to see where they once stood.

One castle that’s still standing is Schloss Affing, with its castle park. This 3-storey manor house you’re looking at is from around the mid-15th century, but it’s believed to have once had an older one on the same spot.

After you’ve done and seen all that, you’ve earned your right to party like a Bavarian. Thankfully you’ll have plenty of opportunities to do that around here — like at the Starkbierfest (Strong Beer Festival) that takes place in March over Lent.

You’ve also got the Straßenfest (Street Festival) in July to attend, the Oktoberfest that’s really held in October, and the Wine Festival that’s another October event.

Perhaps I should have said the certainties in Affing are churches, the remains of medieval castles, and wonderful festivals for everyone. ;-)

Ochtendung — Volcanoes And Castles

April 13th, 2015

At this point in having written about so many German towns, it’s not any wonder that I’m starting to repeat myself. Not only have I (most likely) kept on going with the same corny jokes, but I’m actually coming back around to places I’ve been before.

But no, there’s no other town of Ochtendung in the Rhineland-Palatinate that I’m aware of — it’s just part of the Verbandsgemeinde Maifeld, which is also where you’ll find the larger town of Polch.

This is what I remember, volcanoes. Not active lava-flowing volcanoes these days, but there used to be. Really, I swear, the volcanoes are long extinct — but you will find evidence of their existence dotting the landscape. Hmm, no wonder such delicious goodies like asparagus and potatoes grow so nicely around here.

After eating good, you’ll have plenty of energy to trek the countryside to see such wonders as Burg Wernerseck. So what if this late medieval castle is now in ruins; its 22-meter high donjon is well worth the trip.

And the Burg Wernerseck isn’t the only one you’ll see. You’re situated very near places like the haunted Burg Eltz, one of Germany’s most famous castles. Plus, there’s Burg Pyrmont (west of Münstermaifeld), another castle from the Middle Ages.

Here in Ochtendung you’ll also get a bit of the medieval mixed with those famous volcanoes, because one of its Romanesque churches from the 13th century has some grave markers made entirely from basalt lava. Ingenious, wouldn’t you say?

If you want to keep the volcano theme going, travel along the Vulkanpark — the Karmelenberg is “station #21”; and let’s not forget about the Tönchesberg, another one of the region’s famous volcanic cones.

With no worries of magma falling on your head, you’re free to enjoy all of Ochtendung’s festivities. The Christmas Market is always a fun time, as is the Easter Bazaar, the Masquerade Ball, and even the community chess events are a good time.

Hmm, I just wonder why they don’t have a Volcano Festival???

Glashütten (Taunus) — Finding Romans In The Taunus

April 10th, 2015

The further and further down the list of German towns I go, I just have to shake my head in wonder. Seriously, how many towns of Glahütten could there possibly be? Really, three places named Glashütten in Hesse alone? Was I forever going to be cursed to keep going to the wrong one?

Thankfully I’ve managed to find the correct one, whose proper name is Glashütten (Taunus). Oh joy, I’m here in the Taunus Nature Park. This means I’m blessed with idyllic countryside as I make rounds about town.

Always a sucker for history, I’m totally enamored with the thought that Romans, Franks, and Alamanni once roamed this land.

Wait a second… I kind of have that wrong — the village of Schloßborn wasn’t actually within the borders of the Roman Empire, so maybe those roamin’ Romans didn’t cross over their own border. ;-)

But, with Glashütten (Taunus) being at the far reaches of the Empire, you’ll find the Klein Kastell Maisel (circa 160 A.D.) nearby. This UNESCO area was once on the Upper Germanic Limes — and today it’s on the Limes Hiking Trail and the German Limes Road. A good way to see some of the Roman Watchtowers in the region, too.

After the Romans picked up and left, the Dark Ages were ushered in. Sadly there isn’t anything from the early Middle Ages, but you’ll find an old tower and part of the Ringmauer from a 14th century Jagdschloss (a Hunting Lodge). This must’ve been one hell of a castle, the walls are some 5 feet thick and 7 feet high.

As charming as the old castle is, it is Glashütten’s Catholic Church that caught my attention. Perhaps it was the gnarled tree branches, maybe it was the wide tower with its clock — who knows, I just thought it was really pretty from the outside all covered with snow.

I know, not everyone likes it cold and snowy… so then you should come when its warmer, when you’re able to go swimming, get in on a game of basketball, or hike out to see the Weilquelle — where the Weil River starts before ending 46 kilometers later at the Lahn River.

You know, even if this Glashütten was the wrong one — I’d have stayed anyway; and I think you should, too.

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