Oh yeah, another week of bumming around southern Germany. This time it’s the Rottal-Inn region, and the town of Kirchdorf am Inn.

It might get a bit confusing around here, because technically you’re in Lower Bavaria — but if you literally cross a particular street, you’re in Upper Bavaria, and if you cross the Inn River you’re in Austria.

So, do we all know where we are now? I sure do, sorta. However, I know a likable town when I see it.

I also know a pretty church when I see it. Take the Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt (Assumption Church of Mary), for example. There’s something quite striking about a Gothic church from the 1500s, just as there’s something extraordinary about a Rococo church — like the St. John Nepomuk Church from the 1780s.

Don’t take my word for it, come see some of the other churches and chapels found throughout Kirchdorf’s twenty-two villages. The Our Lady of Perpetual Help in Stadleck is a great place to start as any, as would be the St. James the Elder Church (built 1471).

There is one thing, though. If you’re looking for a massive medieval castle, I’m sorry to tell you there aren’t any — but that doesn’t mean Kirchdorf doesn’t have any castles. Schloss Seibersdorf looks more like a manor house; whose oldest part dates back almost five centuries.

The bright white of Seiberdorf Castle is a striking contrast to the grim appearance of Schloss Ritzing. No, it’s not creepy-like grim, more like somber. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a feat of centuries old engineering, so enjoy it. Ritzing, by the way, even had an 18th century Schlossbrauerei (Castle Brewery).

Bavaria and beer, go figure. ;-)

Another great place to enjoy yourself would be the Unterer Inn area, also known as (deep breath) Bayerisch-Oberösterreichisches Europareservat, or Bavarian Upper Austrian Europe Reserve — a nature reserve area where you could spend your entire time here trying to find all 300 species of birds who call this place home.

Or, you could plan a visit to coincide with one of Kirchdorf’s many festivals. The Blütenfest is a May staple, while June and July are busy with two Village Festivals, a Pfarrfest, and a Wine Festival. Of course if you can’t make the summer Weinfest, there’s another one in September.

Now do you see why I say Kirchdorf am Inn is a likable town? I’m pretty sure the wine had nothing to do with it. ;-)

Today I got to discover the town of Dahme (Mark). Located within the Teltow-Fläming District, and along the Dahme River, its thirteen districts made me feel right at home.

The hardest thing to figure out about Dahme was, do I start with all the nature stuff, or do I start with all its historical stuff. No, I didn’t flip a coin this time (it’s gotten old) — I picked it out of a hat. ;-)

Ahh, nature wins yet again. So, off to the Dahme Heideseen I went. Not all of it, mind you, it is some 594 square miles. But, I did learn the nature reserve area has some 100 lakes, has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and is great for bird watching.

Then again, if all that hiking is too much for you, then I would suggest sitting around the Körbaer Teich. It’s a pond that’s just wonderful for family picnics, boating, and nude sunbathing. Sorry, not for me — I’m not that brave.

Those wishing to keep their clothes on, come on over to the Schlossruine. This once grand Baroque palace is now in utter ruin, but you can still see how magnificent this grande dame once was. Another must-see ruin are the ruins of Bärwalde, located on what was once the Prussian/Saxon border. It has a long history, all the way back to the 12th century — but sadly didn’t survive the 20th.

Dahme’s medieval history isn’t limited to just two castles. In the village of Niebendorf, the town’s Baroque church is really a Romanesque one from the Middle Ages; and the St. Mary Church’s foundations are more than 800 years old. However, the crowning glory of Dahme’s days of the Middle Ages is its former Klosterkirche, built for the Carmelites back in 1300.

A lot of the town’s history is best learned at the Local History Museum, with many exhibits on life in the 18th and 19th centuries. Life in the 21st century, however, seems to be a lot more fun. Come to the Christmas Market, the Fläming Culture Days, the Spring Festival, and the Countryfest to see what I’m talking about.

With all of Dahme (Mark)’s natural beauty, its history, and its ultra-fun atmosphere — I shall never again “almost” forget how great this region truly is.

Just two towns over from France lies the town of Kippenheim, also found along the picturesque foothills of both the pristine Upper Rhine Valley and the mighty Black Forest.

What’s even better, that’s not all Kippenheim has going for it. I should tell you, this town isn’t all that big — just 20 square kilometers — but the place is layered in history, offers super fun festivals, and wine. Oh yeah! ;-)

But, I started all this about Kippenheim’s natural beauty, so maybe it’s best to keep going here.

For some people, their ideal day of rest and relaxation is doing nothing more than casting a fishing line hoping to catch something T-H-I-S B-I-G, and Kippenheim’s fishing lake could very well be the place to accomplish just that.

Would you rather have something a bit more active? No problem, the town’s got quite the extensive network of marked hiking routes and cycling trails — there are even opportunities to try mountain biking.

Whatever you choose to do, you’re bound to work up quite the appetite, so grab something delicious at one of the local eateries. It’ll be even better eating if you’re here for one of Kippenheim’s festivals. Actually, it’ll be better eating and drinking, during the Bockbierfest (1st weekend of July), and the Schmieheimer Kilwi (held at the Palace Gardens) in May.

The festivities don’t end here. The Castle Festival is one of the biggest events — right down to its “medieval” theme with knights-in-shining-armor, jugglers, and beer brewed by the strict German Purity Laws. This is all in addition to the Kippenheimer Weinfest (Wine Festival, 2nd weekend of September), and Christmas Market.

Speaking of drinking, let’s talk about wine for a minute. Not only does Kippenheim have wineries and wine co-ops, but it also lies along the Straussenführer Ortenau, a “scenic route” of sorts that’ll take you to unique wine taverns that are only open for about 16 weeks in the year, like Ackermann’s Keller.

Have I missed anything? Ah, yes, history. And it’s a combination of beer and history combined at the Schlossbrauerei Schmieheim, a staple around town for almost two hundred years.

Just about as old is the former synagogue; built in the 1850s, the center for Jewish life was destroyed in 1938. If you look close enough, the damage of Kristallnacht is still visible. While the synagogue might technically be gone, the town still holds cultural events throughout the year.

What a pleasant surprise Kippenheim turned out to be — a great town that’s so much more than just its location in the Upper Rhine Valley. ;-)

Take a good whiff. Smell that? That’s the salt air of the Baltic Sea here in the town of Süsel. OK, I know I’m exaggerating a tad bit, but in all actuality, Süsel is close enough to the sea that it could happen.

And as wonderful as the Baltic is, it comes in as a second or third choice as a swimming area in these parts. Most people head to the Süseler See first, a quiet swimming area. What’s really nice, is there are six other lakes in the region; so chances are you’ll find one to absolutely love.

While you’re out and about trekking around to see the flora and fauna, you might want to stop by the Gömnitzer Turm. Its 41-step climb offers up the best panoramic views, so try not to miss it. By the way, this tower (built at some 98-meters above sea level) was a welcome sight to sailors returning home.

Sailors like Paul Behncke, a local boy who went on to earn the Blue Max (Pour le Mérite, Prussia’s highest merit honor), both a First and Second Class Iron Cross in World War I, and reaching the rank of Admiral in the German Navy.

That’s but a small piece of Süsel’s history. Long before Admiral Behncke wandered the streets of Süsel, the Romanesque church of St. Lawrence was built; many centuries in fact, it’s been here since 1158. And you’re close by to see the medieval/Renaissance styled Schloss Eutin, along with its Baroque Garden.

It isn’t all history and outdoorsy fun. Süsel has quite the number of cultural events to attend. The Maibaum festivities are always good, as are the Summer Festivals, the Oktoberfest (this one in September), the Christmas Bazaar, and the Apfelfest (Apple Festival) in October.

In between festivals you might want to try the town’s corn maze (in the warmer months, FYI), or try to count all the pretty thatched roof cottages (many are in the village of Gömnitz), or hike along by the Achtersee in the village of Middelburg. I think the forest walks through Zarnekau can do everyone a world of good, too.

Not to take anything away from Admiral Behncke’s accomplishments, I’m just wondering why he’d want to sail away from such a charming and idyllic place. Maybe it was the smell of the Baltic that called to him. ;-)

Egypt gets to boast its Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens, but the Saxon town of Fraureuth and the Vogtland surrounding it gets to boast its in the Valley of Castles.

This, however, brings me to my dilemma. And I would loathe to insult such a lovely town as Fraureuth, but its Burg Schönfels is so ugly it’s actually beautiful. I know that totally makes no sense, but the blend of three building periods (13th century medieval, Gothic, and Renaissance) seems to make a construction hodge-podge of the castle; but when you take into consideration the building techniques and its age, the castle is stunning.

Listen, it’s a museum these days — so you come see for yourself; and let me me know if you think I’m correct. OK?

Now there’s no debating the beauty of Schloss Blankenheim, a graceful building along the water’s edge. Don’t let its more modern Baroque facade fool you, inside this old castle beats a medieval heart from the 12th century.

As lovely as it would be to visit castles all gosh-darn day, it would be wrong of me not to tell you about the rest of Fraureuth. Like what? Oh, I don’t know, maybe you’ll want to ramble along the hiking trails within the nature reserve area of the Werdauer Forest; or perhaps treat yourself to a spa treatment at the Forest Pool.

The pool area, by the way, is the venue for an outdoor rock event. Wait… how’s that gonna work, I’m trying to get my relaxation on when the music’s blasting? Heaven help me, the music’s too loud — I’m getting old.

Oh well, forget the spa for peace & quiet (did I really just say that?), it’s off to the Village Church (Lutheran) then. Or, maybe the Church of St. Anne, built around 1513. Hey, at least these look like traditional churches, the Our Lady Chapel (built 1869) reminded me of a barn.

What? I’m not saying anything wrong — it is what it is. Again, you come to Fraureuth yourself, and get back to me. ;-)

At the confluence of the Aller and Leine Rivers is a chunk of heavenly real estate known as Schwarmstedt.

Excuse me, since I’m German I need to be a little more specific… this is the town of Schwarmstedt and the Collective Municipality of Schwarmstedt in Lower Saxony.

Whether you visit just the town, or all its independent villages, you’ll find it to be just delightful. No wonder so many of them have been entered into the Unser Dorf hat Zukunft, or “Our Village has a Future” competition. You know, I just can’t get used to calling it that — it’ll always be the “Our Village is Beautiful” contest.

One of the best villages is Bothmer, home to the privately owned Schloss Bothmer. That’s too bad they won’t let me in, but I’m happy and content to wonder at the marvels of the Bothmer Dutch Windmill (built 1822), and the town’s early 17th century Chapel of St. Matthaei.

Essel is a great village, too, especially if you like the north German half-timbered houses. Don’t know what that is? Come to the Großköthnerhaus to see what I’m talking about.

Want to see something that doesn’t exist? Ha, I know that sounds funny, but the Uhlenburg used to be a 14th century castle here in Essel, but only the uneven ground tells where it once stood.

A few decades after the destruction of the Uhlenburg the St. Pauli Church was built, famous for its mosaic floor made from pebbles. Hmm, an interesting and unique decoration — and worth the visit when coming to the village of Gilten. Everyone comes to see the Church of St. Catherine while they’re here, so make time to stop by, OK?

I’ll take the St. Laurentius Church myself, but then again, I’m known to be partial to medieval churches — especially when they’re decorated with such pretty frescoes.

All right, that’s enough of the old stuff. For something more modern, come to the Naturbadsee. It’s totally free to swim — so long as you remember to clean up after yourself when you leave.

Another good idea would be to grab yourself some goodies from the Farmer’s Market (cakes, coffee, etc.) on a Friday afternoon.

Great food, fun swimming, and historical sites make Schwarmstedt better than just a chunk of Heaven — I’d say it’s entirely Heavenly!

One more town to go before I’m done for the day, but I’m not all that much in a rush to get away from the Saxon town of Halsbrücke; more like, I’m itching to stay.

Located between Chemnitz (to the southwest) and Dresden (to the northeast), Halsbrücke was once a huge mining and smelting mecca through this part of Germany (which might explain why the 140-meter high chimney stack used for silver ore mining is the town’s landmark).

Now, I don’t pretend to understand the whole mining and smelting process — but what I do know is Halsbrücke grows on you.

It’s a charming enough town of ten districts; and it’s quiet demeanor is quite the contrast from its World War II history. Within the local cemetery, you’ll find a Memorial Stone dedicated to those who lost their lives here on a Buchenwald Death March in 1945. And you’ll find another one in honor of two Wehrmacht soldiers who also died here in 1945.

The cemetery offers a place of reflection, but then again, so does the Tharandter Forest.

You’ll find the village of Hetzdorf here, a resort town with its own pond and great hiking trails through the countryside. For you bicycle enthusiasts, you should check out the old narrow gauge railway area — it’s a biker’s dream area since the tracks haven’t been used since the 1970s.

As you’re out there walking or biking around, you might want to stop at one of Halsbrücke’s many bridges. One of the oldest is the Schafbrücke, BTW.

For some cooling off fun in the region, look no further than Sumpfmühlenbad. For those of you brave enough, this swimming area even has a nudist area (the pool’s solar heated, so go ahead and try it). You will have to keep you bathing suits on if you want a go at the mega-slide, play beach volleyball or table tennis, or grab some ice cream.

Sadly it’s time to go, and I’m sorry that I haven’t gotten to learn more about mining in Halsbrücke — but at least I got to see what else makes the place so great.

If you’re one of the lucky travelers making their way along the German Framework Road, you’ll be even luckier if you’re trekking along the Orange Route of it because it’ll bring you right to Treffurt.

There are over 250 half-timbered buildings in Treffurt, but I think the Rathaus (Town Hall) is an outstanding example of half-timbered construction.

This fantastic scenic route, that highlights some of Germany’s best timber-framed architecture, isn’t the only one you’ll find in town.

The Barbarossaweg (a 326 km hiking route) follows along towns and sites that existed during Barbarossa’s day (the 12th century, if you’re curious). You’ll know you’re going the right way because literally “X” marks the spot.

Then there’s the Werratal-Radweg (Werra Valley Cycle Route) for us cyclists, with 290 km along the Werra River.

One of the places that existed more than eight centuries ago is Burg Normannstein. Actually, this medieval castle ruin has been around for more than a thousand years.

Treffurt’s Stadtkirche St. Boniface is also a long-standing “resident,” built as a place of worship in the 13th century. Another oldie, but goodie, is the St. Mary Church — this one from the 19th century.

While all these places are a lesson in Treffurt’s history, more can be learned by visiting the Heritage Museum in Großburschla (one of Treffurt’s four villages).

As if its history isn’t enough to entice you to be here, it’s a really fun-loving town with all sorts of festivals. Every year in December the town host its Christmas Market right at the castle; and in April it’s all about the music at the MusicFest der Kleinen Werraspatzen.

August is great to come, that’s the time of year for the annual Pferdefest — and October is the month for the town’s Kirchweihfest, or Church Fair.

Then again, if all you’re interested in seeing is wonderful landscape — Treffurt obliges with mountainous scenery — and the Eichfeld-Hainich Werratal Nature Park and/or the Hainich National Park.

It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that you’re lucky enough to come to Treffurt for any reason — not just to travel the Framework Road — but that’s reason enough, right?

Ahhh, I’m so confused. Is Reichenau a town? Or an island? Not an island? What the heck is going on? I need some time to figure this out. Give me a minute… maybe 10. Be right back. ;-)

Whew, that was tough, but I think I got it now. I knew there was something nagging in the back of my mind about where I was, it’s the Reichenau, which is found partially on an island and on the “mainland,” home to a former Abbey, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

History buff that I am, I’m starting there. Everyone’s gotta start somewhere, right?

Anyway, the Kloster Reichenau, or the Reichenau Monastery, was founded in the year 724, and it’s real “attraction” is the Church of St. Mary & St. Marcus (don’t ya just love this name?). You can visit the church year-round, so long as there aren’t any services taking place.

And it’s a real treat to be here for one of Reichenau’s holidays, like the Feast of St. Marcus (April 25th), the Feast of the Holy Blood (a week after Whit Monday), or the Ascension of St. Mary (August 15th).

You could easily spend a month of Sundays right here, but you’re not anywhere near done yet. Also on the island is the Schloss Königsegg, a castle from the 16th century that’s the venue for a number of summer theater performances.

As for churches, there are still more to see. You’ll be happy to know there’s another 9th century church to be found, the Church of St. George; come see its 10th century murals. Grand as the Abbey and St. George’s are, there’s something uniquely special about the Church of St. Peter & St. Paul. Perhaps because it’s been here since the 8th century, and even has its own “treasure chamber” filled with all kinds of relics. Yes, it’s worth the few Euro entrance fee — I swear. ;-)

All this, and I haven’t even mentioned Reichenau lies in/on Lake Constance — a perfect place to canoe, kayak, rent a boat, attend Sailing School, or even go diving. Lake Constance, BTW, separates Germany from Switzerland, so if you climb the Hochwart you can see its southern neighbor.

Pretty as Switzerland might be, I’m staying right here. There are the most amazing hiking and cycling trails around these parts, and bike rentals are easy to come by. Trust me, you’ll love meandering past vineyards and pastures, buying organic veggies when you’re hungry.

Yes, I might’ve been a bit confused when I first started out — but there’s no confusion now, Reichenau is one of the best places to visit in all of Germany.

I don’t care if the official name of Oettingen is Oettingen i.Bay, whatever the place chooses to call itself is of little consequence — just relish the fact that Oettingen is a fantastic Swabian town surrounded by forests and along the Wörnitz River.

You know what that means, right? Yup, you guessed it, get ready to spend a good deal of time outdoors. So put on your most comfortable shoes, then head out into the bright Bavarian sunshine to first see if you can find a pair of nesting storks. These magnificent birds have been coming back year after year — for the last four centuries.

Ha, we think we’re an intelligent species — these birds knew a good thing when they saw it. ;-)

It’s common for the storks to nest over by the St. James Church. Maybe they like living right by its tall square clock tower? I know I wouldn’t mind living by the Oettinger Brewery, which has been brewing fine German beer for more than 500 years. That’s right, the place has been making beer long before the German Purity Law came into effect. Go on, take a tour of the place.

The historical side of Oettingen doesn’t end at the brewery (at least for some), so go see the half-timbered Rathaus (Town Hall, built 1431), or catch a glimpse of the Baroque/Rococo Schloss Oettingen (this castle is privately owned), and don’t leave out stops to both the Chapel of St. Anna (known for its Pieta) and Chapel of St. Leonard (it’s got gorgeous 16th century artwork).

However, of all of Oettingen’s churches, the Gruftkirche is the one to visit if you’re into all that medieval stuff — since it is officially a 13th century church.

Have you worn out your shoes yet? Well, best make sure since it isn’t time to go yet. Why? Because you haven’t tackled the six marked hiking trails (ranging from 7 km – 20 km), nor have you ventured off on one of the many cycling trails. Don’t balk, they’re just a mere 30 km to 70 km; you can do that in no time at all.

Anyone who’s afraid they might miss something can always take a guided tour, which should take about an hour for the highlights. Or, if you’re into the darker side of things, you’re always welcome on a Night Watchman tour. Plus, there’s always the Heritage Museum, housed in a building once belonging to the Teutonic Knights.

Do you see why it doesn’t really matter what Oettingen calls itself — nothing would change the fact that it’s just great to be here.