This is it, my last town for the week, and I’m exceptionally excited to spend it in and around Schliengen.

I love being surrounded by the Margraves’ Land. Plus, the town extends into the mighty Black Forest. And this small town boasts not only one but three castles!

Hmm, the first one gives me an indication that wine will be on tonight’s menu with dinner. They say to try a Chasselas, a white grape cultivated in only a handful of countries — Germany being one of them. I’m partial to a dry red, so I’ll take the winemaker’s word for it. ;-)

Whether you like reds or whites, walking around the Weinlehrpfad (Wine Trail, 3.4 km) is a definite must. I wouldn’t pass up trekking on the Obstlehrpfad or Fruit Trail (2.5 km, yummy, cherries) either, although it’s the Waldlehrpfad (Forest Trail, 1 km) that’ll take you to see one of Schliengen’s famous castles — Schloss Bürgeln. You might have a hard time determining this castle’s real age, its present Baroque exterior belies its medieval origins.

The Wasserschloss Entenstein is kind of in the same boat; another medieval (water) castle whose present appearance came along in the 16th century. As much as I love dark, dreary, and frightening castles of the Middle Ages, there’s something to be said for the bright and light Baroque architecture; which might explain why I loved Schloss Liel, too.

If a town is old enough to have a medieval castle (make that two or three), it’s a sure bet there’ll be a few old churches to visit, too. For a glimpse of Romanesque, Gothic, and Rococo art and architecture, I’d say a trip over to the Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) St. Leodegar should be on your itinerary.

And you might want to schedule a trip to the Church of St. Nicholas around December 6th, the date of the Patronatsfest. For me, it’s about the Church of St. Vincent in Liel. Sure it has a Romanesque tower, but inside it’s got pretty Renaissance art; and the oldest church in town — Kirche Niedereggenen, built in 1080.

At this point I’ve spent too much time indoors, best find sometime to explore the great outdoors. From up here at the lookout tower, I believe I can see as far as the deep Black Forest and the Alps.

Ahh, forget France, I’ll stay right here. ;-)

I’m a glass half-full kind of guy, preferring to see the good in every situation — which is why I’m always hopeful about what I’m going to find in every German town.

What I found in my glass in Kirchheim am Neckar was some pretty gosh-darn good wine. Even better since it’s located on the Württemberg Wine Route, a lovely scenic route all about the wonders of Württemberg wines.

Kirchheim’s wine making history is long, which is why you’ll find a couple of old wine presses in town. One is located in the Ortsmuseum, a local history museum that’s also got exhibits on the area’s shoe industry. The other old wine presses, by the way, are found at the Fleckenkelter and Alte Kelter (from the 1530s).

As lovely as walking around the vineyards are, I’d have to say the Kirchheim Wanderweg is great too. Found along the old Neckar River loop, there’s also a nature reserve area along the 10 km route.

What? Can you think of a better way to spend a few hours?

OK, you got me on that one if you think spending a few hours at an old castle is a good idea. Guess what? There’s one here, so do both. Except Burg Bönningheim isn’t a castle anymore, it’s a ruin of what used to be a 12th century castle.

Anything coming from the Middle Ages really isn’t that old around here, the Romans once stomped right on through. In fact, you’re awfully close to the Römerhaus in neighboring Walheim, if you don’t believe me.

While not as old as the castle and Romans, you’ll find quite a number of half-timbered houses throughout the town of Kirchheim; one of the oldest dates back almost 600 years. Yeah, that’s a long time ago, but over at the Franconian farmhouse (built 1579) they found 5th century artifacts.

Oops, I forgot to mention how Kirchheim even sits along the Neckar Valley Cycle Route, but I’d save leaving the old part of town for after you’ve seen the Romanesque/Gothic Evangelical Mauritiuskirche, the Neckartor, its Ortsarrestturm, and its Happelturm (complete with its own windowless dungeon). A historical guided tour is the best way to appreciate this kind of thing.

Who knew you could jam-pack all this wine/historical goodness into less than nine square kilometers? Forget half-full, Kirchheim’s cup is overflowing with greatness. ;-)

Thank the Heavens the Thuringian town of Krayenberggemeinde is much easier on the eyes and soul, than it is to roll off the tongue. What’s funny is, none of the villages share the name of the town — but it’s the location of a most fascinating story. Sad — but fascinating, nonetheless.

Now on with the story…

In 1945, with the approach of the advancing Allies, a few key American soldiers came across some forced laborers along a road. They were told a hoard of Nazi loot was being kept in an underground salt mine in the village of Merkers. General George Patton confirmed the tons of gold (taken from many concentration camp victims including gold teeth, rings, and watches confiscated by the SS), silver, and priceless works of art.

There was so much metal kept in the mine, that six decades after the war ended — there was 5.5 metric tons still left. In the late 1990s, the countries that still had claim on the gold, relinquished their share of the hoard, in order to help pay reparations to survivors of the Holocaust.

OK, that’s the condensed version of the story — but the longer one is told in the United States National Archives.

As for the rest of Krayenberggemeinde, the stories that can be told date back to centuries before World War II. On top of the Krayenberg are the ruins of the medieval Krayenburg Castle. Built in the middle of the 12th century (isn’t that like 900 years ago?), the grey stone castle was eventually destroyed during another conflict, the Thirty Years’ War.

Also from the Middle Ages is the town’s Evangelical Church. Despite its more modern onion dome, the church is a Romanesque design from the mid-12th century.

More than a century later, some aristocrat had the ambition to build Schloss Feldeck. If you look at the 13th century lowland castle from the southwest, you don’t really get the scale of how big the castle really is. I think the best view to see the sheer size of it is from the east.

Scattered throughout the rest of Krayenberggemeinde’s thirty-one square kilometers are half-timbered houses from the 17th and 18th centuries, along with pretty farmhouses from around the same time.

If you’d rather have something a bit more modern, then come see the Erlebnisbergwerk — the reason Merkers is found on the European Route of Industrial Heritage.

Stolen Nazi loot and a scenic route? The wonders of Krayenberggemeinde never cease. It was on one of the hiking trails along the Frauenseer Forest that I pondered how to turn that into a murder mystery that’ll sell a million copies.

You can think of your own story as you’re hiking along the quiet paths on the Rhön or in the nature reserve region — no stealing my idea, OK? ;-)

Sometimes when I stumble upon a town that’s a Collective Municipality it’s hard to make the decision whether to include its independent villages or not; hence my problem with the town of Horst (Holstein). Or, maybe I should say: Amt Horst-Herzhorn. No matter what you choose to call it, I’m making the “executive decision” to add it in. What? It’s called the power of the keyboard. ;-)

Just look at it this way… it only enhances all the things you can see and do in this once Prussian town in Schleswig-Holstein, filled with half-timbered houses and quiet lanes for leisurely strolls in the north of Germany.

Now it’s time to put my money where my mouth is, so I’ll tell ya what’s to see and do. Read on…

In the village of Borsleth you’ll find taverns filled with fine German beer, and half-timbered houses that make great photo-ops. Not so bad for a town almost entirely destroyed over 300-years ago during the Thirty Years’ War.

Speaking of crime, the town of Kiebitzreihe also suffered under the Swedes during the war; while today it’s a village that offers serene cycling paths and walking trails. Krempdorf is a good village to see, too. Here you’ll find thatched roof cottages (love those!), small farms, and it hosts a Village Festival every year.

That’s one thing you won’t ever find lacking here in Horst (excuse me, Amt Horst-Herzhorn). The Faschingsfest is a goodie, so is the Rosenmontagsfete (Rose Monday) — both a fine festival to forget the long, cold days of winter. The Osterfeuer can be a fun time, but things really get kicked up in July for the Summer Festival (July), and the Oktoberfest in September.

The good times don’t end there, November’s when Horst holds its Laternenfest and Adventsmarkt.

In between the festivals, visiting the village of Neuendorf should be on your itinerary. This is where you’ll find a small ferry service operating back-and-forth across the river. Go ahead, ride it back and forth all day long — just be sure to see its pretty village church from the first years of the 16th century.

The last village that you should see is Hohenfelde, a rural community that’s got quiet streets, a World War Memorial, and the lovely village church of St. Nikolai.

Oops, make Kollmar your last stop — located on the Elbe, this town got its start almost two thousand years ago. These days it’s got camping facilities right by the dike, and wonderful cycling trails. And, if you can’t get enough of old architecture, there’s a church from the 15th century in town.

I’m pretty sure I’ve missed a few things, but the fact that Horst (Holstein) lies on the Grüne Küstenstraße (Green Coast Road) has not gone unnoticed. Frankly, I’ve never heard of this before today, but turns out it’s a mega-long scenic route running through Germany (of course!), Norway, the Netherlands, Belgium, and Denmark for 1750km.

Wow, that’s a lot of land to cover…thank Heaven all I had to do was Amt Horst-Herzhorn.

Have you ever come to a serious crossroad in your life? Do you turn left? Do you turn right? Whatever choice you make, the possibilities are endless, are they not?

It’s kind of like that here in the town of Vacha. I know, it always sounds so cryptic when I talk (write) like that, but the choice as to which route you choose to follow while you’re here — is kind of like life in general, is it not?

I’m not sure if you guessed by now, Vacha lies along the Werra River, and a couple of scenic routes (hence the whole thing about choice of routes), like the Via Regia (also called Ökumenischer Pilgerweg around here), the German Framework Road, and along the former Inner German Border.

What’s really nice about Vacha being on a holy pilgrimage route towards Santiago de Compostela is you get to see such pretty churches along the way. Although, I’m guessing the ruins of the 15th century Annenkapelle would have been pretty back in the day. At least the Protestant Church of St. John is intact, as is the old monastery church — where you can see beautiful 15th century wall paintings.

FYI, for those on a spiritual pilgrimage, Vacha has a Pilgrim Hostel offering basic (but comfortable) accommodations for those needing to spend the night, plus a few private locations.

As for the German Framework Road, rest assured you’re bound to see some fantastic half-timbered houses. I’m not usually inclined to agree with the majority, but I do agree the half-timbered Rathaus (Town Hall) is truly remarkable — well worth the trek on the orange part of the route.

While not all half-timbered buildings come from the Middle Ages, it sure does feel that way; and what’s a trek through the medieval without a visit to a castle? Burg Wendelstein is quite the formidable structure — and for some strange reason it appears more menacing in the bleak days of winter. Anyway, the 13th century castle is now a fine museum these days, as well as offering up an opportunity to experience the beauty of the Rhön Mountains.

I’m not sure if it’s a good idea to go hiking out on the Rhön in winter, so it might be best to save that for the warmer months of the year. Come in July, that’s when Vacha’s Summer Festival takes place, OK? No problem if you’re not able to make that one, you can come for the Kürbisfest (Pumpkin Festival) in October, the Arts & Crafts Market in November, or the Gemeindefest in September instead.

Seems like the right kind of weather to hike along the Keltenpfad, a 17.8 km route in the footsteps of the Celts. Come see the Öchsenberg, a mountain that once housed a Celtic oppidum, or settlement — and it’s now within a UNESCO Biosphere area.

And just when you think you’re done, Vacha has something else up her sleeve. The Werra Bridge has been crossing people over the water since the Middle Ages, the pretty Vitus Fountain has probably seen it all since it’s been here for 400 years, and there’s even a Jewish Cemetery.

The choices truly are endless in Vacha.

There’s nothing wrong with being a “tourist.” I know, sometimes it seems like such a dirty word — and I know I don’t want to be perceived as one all the time.

Luckily for me, the Saxon town of Bobritzsch-Hilbersdorf isn’t a touristy kind of place, so maybe if I just quietly go about my business, no one will label me one.

Don’t get me wrong, there’s nothing wrong with traveling with your camera ready, all the while staring aimlessly at a map — but sometimes you just wanna blend in with the locals.

I’d say the best place here to do that is at the 3-day Hilsdorfer Dorffest, or Village Festival, held in the early days of June.

Of course, if you’re absolutely looking to do touristy stuff, then I’d say you’ll have to visit any one of Bobritzsch-Hilbersdorf’s village churches. My favorite one is found in the village of Niederbobritzsch, maybe because it’s just so pretty.

No, it’s the village church of St. Nicholas in Oberbobritzsch that I like the most. Ohh, I’m so torn — good old St. Nick’s is a proper medieval church, whereas Niederbobritzsch’s is quite a few centuries younger. Let’s just say they’re each my favorite in the respective time periods, OK?

I kind of like the village of Obernaundorf, too. There’s nothing like a relaxing bike ride (or a simple hike) through the Tharandter Forest — all the while thinking about how things have changed over the centuries. You know, like no one these days is gonna single you out for a witch hunt — like they did here in the 18th century.

Hmm, I wonder what made one think you were a witch back then?

Ahh, no time to think about that now, there are some nearby castles I must see. Burg Frauenstein isn’t too far, but even so, the medieval ruin from the 1200s is worth the trek. Just don’t confuse it with Schloss Frauenstein (over in Frauenstein), that’s a 16th century Renaissance castle doing double-duty as a museum.

And it’s back to the lovely countryside along the Rundwanderweg Bobritzsch, because sometimes you just need to clear your mind — and the Bobritzschtal, Tharandter Forest, and Ore Mountains can make that happen. Just remember before you run off, buy yourself some locally produced cooking oils from the Oil Mill. It’s been producing some of the best stuff on earth since the mid-18th century, ya know.

Cool, a souvenir that’s kinda good for you. If I buy like 20 bottles, do you think everyone would look at me like a tourist? ;-)

Say hello to Harztor, a fine and dandy new town in Thuringia, pretty close to Saxony-Anhalt; established on January 1st, 2012 when the towns of Ilfeld (from 1157) and Niedersachswerfen (16th century?) were merged together.

Back in the Middle Ages, the town of Harztor (excuse me, it was Ilfeld way back) was once famous for its monastery, but these days you’ll find more than just the pious. Sounds perfect, now where do we start?

How about at said Kloster? Well, we could sort of start at the 12th century Kloster Ilfeld. Today some of the monastery’s original buildings are used for other things — but don’t let that stop your imagination from seeing what it might’ve been like back in medieval times.

Ilfeld itself, by the way, is charming enough. You’re located along the Poppberg, a mountain jutting up to 601 meters above sea level; and you’ll find a Local History Museum housed in the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). It is, however, the Lange Wand, or Long Wall, that folks come to see. The information panels along the Long Wall are a wealth of information of the region’s geological and mining history.

For me it’s the Gänseschnabel, a rock formation steeped in legend. The story says a witch turned a monk into stone for waving to a local girl across the valley. It’s also been said the Gänseschnabel looks like a goose’s beak, but I don’t see it no matter how long I stare at it.

Never mind, I’ll turn my attention to the surrounding Behre Valley, which is just great for mountain biking.

Ooh, wait, maybe I should be paying attention to one of Harztor’s many festivals. The Klosterfest is a good one held at the end of May, while the Autumn Market is a 2-day event in the crisp days of the Fall, and let’s not forget the Ilfelder Christmas Market, or its Garlic Festival in August. Vampires, it’s best you stay home for this one. ;-)

Or, you could visit the ruins of what was once a 12th century castle. So what if nothing more than some of its walls and keep are visible — it’s still a castle.

All right, if you want something that’s intact, you should see the St. Jacobi Church in the village of Wiegersdorf. While the modern day church is a Baroque creation of the 17th century, the original church dates back to four centuries earlier.

I told you Harztor was a fine and dandy place — just don’t go falling in love with a local girl. ;-)

On 1/1/11 (a most auspicious number, wouldn’t you say) Germany got itself a whole new town, Schirgiswalde-Kirschau. Oh, it’s not as if Saxony just acquired some new real estate; no, the formerly independent towns and villages of the new Schirgiswalde-Kirschau were once part of the (deep breath for this long word) Verwaltsungsgemeinschaft Schirgiswalde — namely Schirgiswalde, Kirschau, and Crostau.

I really don’t mean to sound flippant or sarcastic, but this likely means little or nothing to you. So what’s more important than its name on a map would be all the wonderful sights and attractions — at least that’s my reasoning.

For real, wouldn’t you get more of a tingle thinking about a thousand year old castle? Of course you would, and that’s exactly what you’ll find when you come see Burg Körse. It’s too sad there isn’t much left, just an archway and some stones, but in its heyday (before being destroyed more than 650 years ago) it had its own donjon and drawbridge.

Even if you’re not into castles (shudder the thought), there’s still plenty to get excited about. The nice people at the Tourist Office (located in Schirgiswalde at Sohlander Straße 3) can help you find stuff to do. They’re sure to tell you about the Apple Festival (with an Apple Queen, no less), about the Bridge Festival, the Hexenfeuer on Walpurgis Night, and the Nikolausmarkt, too.

I’d also be sure to make time to visit places like the town’s City Museum (located in Schirgiswalde on Hauptstraße), and the Local History Museum at the Burgmuseum Kirschau (in the district of Kirschau).

All this running around can stress you out, so the Körse Therme is the perfect place to restore some balance. The salt cave is just what you need if you’re got some breathing issues — along with whatever else ails you.

You know, Schirgiswalde-Kirschau is located within the Upper Lusatian Mountains, so a quiet hiking trail could quite possibly have the same effect (don’t go too far, the Czech Republic’s only 5 km away). I’d say a trip to the village of Klein Postwitz could do that too — it’s a serene village of just 50+ people (outnumbered by sheep) along tree lined streets.

Whatever anyone calls the present day Schirgiswalde-Kirschau, you’d have to also call it wonderful.

Supposing you’ve done the whole been-there, done that type of thing in Germany, and you’re looking for something totally spectacular? Where would you choose? Where to go?

I’ve got a great idea, how about the Bavarian Swabian town of Bad Grönenbach?

Located in the Allgäu, along the Iller River, rest assured you’re getting the very best of the Upper Swabian region for your tourist Euro.

And just because Bad Grönenbach sits within Upper Swabia, doesn’t mean that all you’ll have to do is hiking and cycling — although with 450 km of trails, it’ll definitely keep you busy.

It’s just you’ll miss out on some terrific architecture, like the Stiftskirche of Sts. Philipp und Jakob. This stunning church from the Middle Ages got a fantastic Baroque renovation — so good it’s earned Bad Grönenbach a stop on the Upper Swabian Baroque Route.

Ooh, a great scenic route if ever there was one, but lucky for anyone coming to Bad Grönenbach, it isn’t the only one. As its name implies, Bad Grönenbach is a spa town; and a mighty good one to have it lie along the Swabian Spa Route.

Bad Grönenbach is also a spiritual town, too. If you’re trekking along the Way of St. James, you’ll find yourself here — even if you weren’t trying. Good luck for you, isn’t it?

While you’re here, you really must see the Spitalkirche of the Holy Spirit, a 15th century church that had to be rebuilt in the early years of the 18th century — all because it was destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War.

Speaking of the Thirty Years’ War, that was when the Swedes used the nearby Burg Rothstein as its Headquarters. Sadly these days the castle is little more than a ruin. At least the Hohes Schloss (Upper Castle) is intact; and is now used for all kinds of ceremonies and exhibitions — as well as being Bad Grönenbach’s landmark. But, just so you know, there’s no visiting the Unteres Schloss (Lower Castle), it’s privately owned.

Another great thing about visiting Bad Grönenbach, is you don’t have to wait until a particular season. Winter’s quite active, with everything from cross-country skiing to winter hiking, and there’s even a ski school if you want to learn.

When the weather’s warm, why not give golfing (both miniature and 18-hole) a try, or perhaps it’s all about fishing and swimming for you?

Me? I’ll take the spa, wellness and Kneipp treatments. Hey, it’s not easy to trek your entire way through Germany… although towns like Bad Grönenbach sure make it all worth it.

Blahhh, another blank page staring me in the face. Whatever did the town of Beratzhausen do to deserve such writer’s block? Nothing really, I bet it’s the fear of not being able to do this Upper Palatinate town its proper due.

It’s easy enough to tell you that Beratzhauen is found right between Regensburg and Nuremberg (though closer to the former). And it’s simple to tell you people have lived here from Bronze Age days.

See, Marcus, that wasn’t so hard. ;-)

What’s hard to get out in words is all the stuff you’ll get to see and do throughout its 56 (yes, fifty-six) villages.

As with most Bavarian towns, you’ll easily fall in love with its many hiking trails. The one that I enjoyed most was the 14 Stations of the Obst und Bibel trail.

Fruit and Bible Trail? Yeah, seems right considering Beratzhauen is also located along the Way of St. James — and did have its own Pilgrimage Church back in the early 18th century. Doesn’t sound too old, does it? You want older stuff?

All right, how about traipsing on over to see the ceiling frescoes at the Baroque & Rococo Church of Sts. Peter & Paul. WAhh, wait — that’s not older. What about coming to see the 14th century Cemetery Chapel of St. Michael? Better make it a visit to what’s left of Schloss Beratzhausen, a castle whose construction started almost a thousand years ago in 1025, while you’re at it too.

What’s really wonderful about towns like this, is they not only embrace their past, they live in the present. Beratzhausen is a town that truly likes to party. Come September, you’ve got events where “Medieval Folk Rock” bands play, or everyone gets together for the Kirwa celebrations. And you’ll just love its Christmas Market while you’re here, too.

Did you know every Summer the Art Academy has some kind of workshop for creative types? At the end of it all, you’re more than welcome to see their works. Just check at the Tourist Office (located at Marktstraße 33) for more details.

One last thing about art… be sure you leave enough time to see Beratzhausen’s Sculpture Park. Put here in 1992, these massive blocks are an artistic vision.

This page isn’t so blank after all — I just hope I gave Beratzhauen the recognition it rightfully deserves. If not, I’ll come back here anytime to give it another whirl. ;-)