Bötzingen — Educational Hiking At The Emperor’s Chair

March 23rd, 2015

There is absolutely no possible way anyone could come to the town of Bötzingen for just a day. No joke, there’s so much to do for the average person to rush through — heck, there’s too much to do for the above-average person. ;-)

If you’re able to tackle one of Bötzingen’s many marked hiking trails, you’re in for a real treat since you’re within the Black Forest region.

There are a couple of specific trails, like the Weinlehrpfad, a wine trail (marked with grapes, BTW) that starts off at the town’s Rathaus (Town Hall). The whole route takes about 2-1/2 hours, or is 7 km long, which leaves you enough time to take the next themed route.

That would be the Brunnenpfad, of course. This is another 7 km route that follows a dozen of the town’s fountains. The information boards tell how water is important for everyday life, to animals, and even wine growing.

Since the Fountain Route takes you to a couple of Bötzingen’s architectural gems, you’re efficiently seeing the best of it all. One of the fountains is found right outside the St. Albans Kapelle, a Gothic chapel that was built in the 15th century.

And you’ll also find yourself at the Dorfplatz (Village Square) in the hamlet of Oberschaffhausen. This is Bötzingen’s only other village, and you’ll find the Square acting as a community meeting point for all sorts of village goings-on.

In keeping with the whole fountain thing, you must see the Stockbrunnen, found right near the Catholic Church. Amazingly, this fountain has been here for more than twelve centuries.

And coming back to the wine theme, you really need to be here for the Dorf und Weinfest. This fantastic multi-day festival is held on the second weekend of September on even-numbered years — that’s right, it’s only held every other year.

No worries, the Fisch & Wein Festival in June is an annual event, as is the Christmas Market held on the first weekend of Advent.

Didn’t I tell you it would take more than a day to explore in (and around) Bötzingen. I think I need to come back again soon.

Arzberg (Bavaria) — Famous Porcelain, Romantic Nature

March 21st, 2015

Lovers of porcelain might have heard of Arzberg before. What they might not know is that Arzberg is a real place, a town in Bavaria, found in Upper Franconia in the Fichtelgebirge, between Marktredwitz and the Czech border.

The geography of Arzberg, in my humble opinion, is a muse to the beautiful colors found on this famous porcelain. And with over sixty kilometers of ski trails, you’re bound to be inspired yourself. The other great part of skiing here in Arzberg? You don’t have to do it just in winter — there are grass ski trails, too.

These ski trails aren’t the only ones in Arzberg, either. If you follow the Alexander von Humboldt Rundwanderweg, you’ll be learning all about mining in the region, spread out with mining station information boards.

And over by the Feisnitz Stausee, there’s an easy enough circular hiking route. It’s always nice to stop for leisurely fishing, as well. Just don’t forget to get a fishing license beforehand, OK?

To learn more about other wildlife in Arzberg, the Romantisches G’steinigt along the Röslau River is one of the best nature areas around. And if you’re truly ambitious, hike out to the observation tower known as the Zuckerhut (Sugar Loaf). From this high up you can see clearly to the Czech Republic; a few kilometers to the east.

FYI, every Whit Monday the Zuckerhut hosts a really fun Sugar Festival.

So, while you might be able to see the Czech Republic, there’s no need to leave until you’ve see Arzberg’s old fortified church, or its Pulverturm (Powder Tower) from the 14th century. It’ll take you a little while to see the exhibits at the Ethnography Museum, open everyday but Monday.

Arzberg isn’t without its cultural events, too. Five times a year the town holds it “Markets”; and come October, it’s time for the annual music competition known as the Arzberger Bergkristall.

Between the fancy porcelain, beautiful countryside, historical architecture, and outdoor recreation — it’s surprising that more people don’t know about this.

That is, until now. ;-)

Babenhausen (Swabia) — Chock-Full Of Lovely Churches

March 20th, 2015

Wow, back to Bavaria again. And you know what? The thrill and wonders of returning will never cease — and it’s because of towns like Babenhausen (Swabia), located within the Allgäu region.

The hardest thing to do here is figuring out what you should do first.

I’d have to say visiting the hamlet of Klosterbeuren would be good, since it’s home to Kloster Klosterbeuren — and no, that’s not a misprint; although the monastery has been dissolved for more than 200 years, its former church is still standing. You’d never guess from its grand Baroque interior, the church (dedicated to St. Ursus) has been around from the Middle Ages.

Another must-see Baroque church is the Church of the Assumption, the high altar of the St. Andrew’s Church (even though its a late-Gothic design), and underneath the Baroque makeover, the Pfarrkirche St. Ulrich is really a proper medieval church.

If you’re still willing to visit some of Babenhausen’s other churches, then it should be the frescoes and sculptures at Keterhausen’s Church of St. Michael; and the paintings at Oberschönegg’s St. Leonhard Church, too.

You’re not limited to only visiting old churches, there’s an old castle to see too. The Fuggerschloss, by the way, isn’t just a 13th century castle — it’s a museum these days as well.

Oh yes, over at Frauenstraße 1 is a former tithe barn from the 1700s, and if you’re into more spooky stuff then visit the “princely tomb” of a Bavarian aristocrat.

One other thing you can count on in true Bavarian style is a good party. Babenhausen’s got a few of those, everything from its Lampenfest in June, a July Summer Festival, September Wine Festival, its Gallusmarkt in October, and the charming Christmas Festival in December. Just in case you can’t make any of those, at least try to visit the town’s Weekly Market held every Friday from 8am-1pm.

Thank you, Babenhausen (Schwaben), it’s all because of you the astonishment and awe of Bavaria will never wear off.

Wiedemar — Home Of Adonis, Making Nietzsche Mad

March 20th, 2015

Found in northern Saxony are the seventeen districts of Wiedemar, located just to the north of the Leipzig/Halle Airport. It used to be the Verwaltungsverband Wiedemar, but thanks to government intervention it now has a simpler name — and its once independent villages are now merged.

Would that be the Musketeers’ motto, “all-for-one” and “one-for-all”? Probably, but there’s no guessing the Leipzig Lowlands countryside will have you snapping photo after photo for your album.

And it was here in the village of Zschernitz the Adonis of Zschernitz was found. Who knew such a tiny clay figure would cause an uproar in the field of Archaeology — but it seems the Neolithic figure with its prevalent male body parts was such a rarity when it was found in 2003.

After a stint at a museum in Dresden, its new home is now in Chemnitz if you want to see it.

The seven-thousand year old Adonis is probably the oldest thing ever left in Wiedemar, but a couple of medieval churches are still around. In the village of Kölsa, you can’t miss the Dorfkirche’s Romanesque tower.

There’s another old medieval church in the village of Kyhnsa, its medieval tower is quite severe looking — with little to no ornamentation on the outside — and for some reason, it’s my favorite of them all.

With all this beauty surrounding the place, it’s a wonder where the ugliness of Theodor Fritsch came from. Who’s that, you ask? I’ll tell ya — he was a late 19th/early 20th century writer from Wiedemar, whose anti-Semite rantings in the Anti-Semitic Catechism was the foundation of the doctrine of the SA, and the author of The Handbook of the Jewish Question.

I certainly wouldn’t say Friedrich Nietzsche was a contemporary, as Fritsch managed to anger the philosopher enough for him to tell him to stop sending him these writings. Not everyone felt the Fritsch did, which is why there’s a memorial to Resistance Fighter, Will Grübsch (who was killed in the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp), at the Dorfplatz.

While there’s not a whole lot else to experience in Wiedemar, sometimes it’s about the stories of those who once lived here that make it truly memorable — even those who lived more than seventy centuries in the past.

Allershausen — Awash In Yellow In The Ampertal

March 20th, 2015

Yipee, it’s back to Upper Bavaria for me today, this time to Allershausen.

It sure is pretty this time of year when its fields are blooming with bright yellow flowers. It’s the perfect place to find a guesthouse or pension to spend a night or two; all the better so you can take your time around its 14 districts.

Because this is Upper Bavaria, no matter if you’re just walking down a village street, or exploring the surrounding countryside, it’s a feast for the eyes here in the Ampertal region. And if you need a feast for the stomach, you’ll find all kinds of cuisine to eat — everything from Fine Dining, regional cuisine, bakeries, ice cream parlors, and pizzerias.

Here I am yakking about food, and I have a whole town to explore. But the thought of brat and beer gets me to thinking about what kinds of festivals are held here. The Volksfest is a great place to meet Allerhausen’s residents, as well as eat and drink on the last weekend of July. The Christkindlmarkt (1st weekend of Advent) has a different vibe, but it’s still inviting a good time.

Man can’t live by party alone, can he? Of course not, but you got all the rest of the year to come see the town’s pretty churches. Yes, they make for great sightseeing — my favorite being the Catholic Church of St. Joseph, a dainty church in a pretty shade of yellow. A medieval church is my first love, but there’s something to be said for the grandiose design of a Baroque one.

And it’s a fine medieval church of Saints Peter & Paul that awaits in Tünzhausen, a proper Romanesque one from the 13th century. Which, by the way, isn’t to be confused with the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul in Unterkienberg, that’s also a Romanesque original.

Allerhausen’s sightseeing includes more church visits — perhaps to the Church of St. Leonhard (built 17th century), so it makes total sense why Allershausen has a Leonhardiritt ride every November. And in the village of Paunzhausen, the St. Stephen Church is another Baroque gem. Despite the Church of the Assumption’s Baroque update, the church is more than 500 years old.

The town of Allershausen might have seen changes over the centuries, to where the Celts who once wandered these lands might not recognize it — but I think they’d love what this place has become, just as you will.

Dietramszell — Heavenly Grandeur, Alpine Vistas

March 19th, 2015

Life certainly is getting better in the “diet” department. Every time I’ve encountered a “diet” town, each is just as lovely as the last — which is why I’m not surprised that I loved the Upper Bavarian town of Dietramszell so much right on first sight.

OK, it didn’t hurt Dietramszell lies within the outstanding Tölzer Land either.

First things first, though. As much as Upper Bavaria is famous for its outstanding countryside, the town of Dietramszell is most noted for its Kloster Dietramszell. This once Augustinian monastery has been around for a thousand years, although you’d never know it from its Heavenly Klosterkirche (Monastery Church) with all its Baroque paintings, side chapels, and tons of marble.

That’s some start, isn’t it? It’s hard to top something so breathtaking — but the panoramic view of the Alps in the distance is equal in grandeur. Consider this a good time to take a hike through the Zeller Wald to see what I’m talking about.

And as for Heavenly, the Way of St. James comes right on through here, too.

For those of you a little more ambitious, you can tackle the two marked cycling routes — all right, maybe they’re not too ambitious, they’re only 16 and 30 km respectively.

Visitors to Dietramszell can keep the whole Heavenly theme going by visiting any one (or all) of the town’s churches. Hey, with sixty municipalities there are just about as many churches. The Pilgrimage Church of Maria Elend is a great start — and even though the name translates to Maria Misery, miserable is something you won’t be or feel.

I really like the Chapel of St. George, too. What’s not to love about a 16th/17th century chapel, especially when you’re here for the Georgiritt on Easter Monday. The horses are brightly decorated, with the festivities kicking off at 1pm.

Between church visits you’ll find the rest of Dietramszell to be charming rural villages of little farmhouses, surrounded by the greenest scenery within the Zellbachtal.

If this is what a diet can be — then I’ll have a second helping of Dietramszell any day of the week. ;-)

Hagenbach — Pure, Pleasant, Palatinate

March 19th, 2015

Today it’s all about the Palatinate town of Hagenbach. If you’ve never heard of Hagenbach before, you’ll really be grateful you’ve gotten the chance now.

As far as geography goes, Hagenbach is found on the Rhine, thus on the border of Baden-Württemberg, right near the border of France.

But long before there was a Germany and France, the Romans made this place their home. It doesn’t take much imagination to see Roman soldiers and Centurions marching their way along a Roman road. Look closely, you’ll see one of their milestones.

In regard to German and French relations — the German/French Festival kind of says it all. Great food, great wine, smiling faces, dancing, marching bands — yeah, it’s lovely here.

What’s even better is Hagenbach isn’t a one-festival town. Heck no, they’re all about the Kerwe (a Church Festival) in October, they celebrate Carnival, and the wine flows during the Hagenbacher Stadtfest (City Festival).

Let’s see, I’ve mentioned the wine, the Romans, the festivals… what else? Ah yes, the ever so elegant St. Michael’s Church — a stunning example of Rococo art and architecture from around 1752. And there’s the Church of St. Bartholomew, just a tad older, as it was build around 1744.

You know what else is nice about the 17th and 18th centuries? Yes, you got it — half timbered houses. There are quite a number of them found throughout Hagenbach’s villages. Come to the Hauptstraße in Neuburg am Rhein, and you’ll see what I mean.

Neuberg am Rhein, by the way, also has the Rheinmuseum — if you’re into the whole museum going thing.

For those who yearn for an even quieter pursuit, you’ll find it on just about any hiking trail through the Bienwald. Or, you could take a horseback ride, a bicycle ride, or set out on one of the four Nordic Walking trails — ranging from 5 km, to a more hearty 12 km.

It’s really great to tell you about charming places like this one, and I hope you find Hagenbach as pleasant as I do.

Wilthen — Wickedly Wonderful Wooden Humor

March 19th, 2015

Ha haha ha, I love a town with a sense of humor — and Wilthen is one of ’em.

What makes me say that? Any place who’s landmark is a big wooden statue of someone named Martin Pumphut has a sense of humor.

Who was Martin Pumphut? He was a local guy known as the “Warlock of Wilthen,” but many just called him a master magician. Mr. Pumphut’s presence is still felt all around this Saxon town; and you can even hike along the Pumphutsteig if you want.

Whether you’re hiking in the footsteps of the magic man, or not, you’ll love the beautiful Upper Lusatian mountain scenery. And just to give you an idea of where you are, Bautzen is a mere 9 km away (northeast), Dresden is just 50 km (west), and one more town over, to the south, is the border to the Czech Republic.

In keeping with Wilten’s wickedly funny humor, they host the annual Das Wilthener Bettenrennen. This “Bed Race” along a 500 meter track is the highlight of the City Festival; and where a Miss Bed is crowned.

The other must-do event around here is the Oberlausitzer Hunderter, a group hiking event that takes place every October. Ohh, an utterly fantastic time to enjoy the fresh mountain air.

Maybe Wilthen’s humor comes from the Wilthener Goldkrone (Gold Crown), a locally made brandy. Distillery tours are available if you’ve got a group, if you want to see how the stuff’s made.

Forget that, let’s see how the stuff tastes. ;-)

No group is necessary to visit Wilthen’s Heimatstube (Local History Museum). The town used to be really big in the textile industry, so it’s only right that you’ll find looms and what-not as exhibits.

Another terrific event held in Wilthen is the Hexenbrennen. Held on April 30th, this is a Walpurgis Night event that thankfully isn’t about burning witches at the stake, but celebratory bonfires.

What’s great about Wilthen is its wonderful humor, its outstanding countryside, and fun events — yea, I love towns like this.

Tharandt — The Jewel Of The Forest

March 18th, 2015

As lovely and beautiful as Dresden is, sometimes you have to get away from the “big city.” Where do Dresdeners go?

It’s a simple answer; they go to Tharandt. More specifically, the Tharandt Forest in the town of Tharandt — but I don’t have time to split hairs; too much to do around here. ;-)

There’s no way around it, this is Saxony — and it gets cold here in the winter. But, don’t let that stop you from enjoying the prettiest of sleigh rides during the dark winter months. Other than that, the other three seasons are probably the absolute best to enjoy the Tharandt Forest, and the town itself for that matter.

Besides, that’s when all the festivals are held. One of the biggest is the Kiln Festival, a July event that’s all about bratwurst eating, beer drinking, and music playing. Of course, the Osterfest (Easter Festival) is quite charming, as is the Stadtfest (City Festival) in October. And if you’re lucky enough to be here on the first and third Saturday of most months, you can enjoy the Naturmarkt — where the freshest of fruits, cheese, veggies, and other goodies await you.

A guided tour won’t take you to the festivals or Natural Market, but it will take you to places like the ruins of Burg Tharandt, the old 13th century Jagdschloss Grillenburg (now a museum), the medieval murals at the Dorfkirche, and the Arboretum — a free garden area that’s open from April to October.

Oh, that’s another reason to come during the warmer months, huh?

Where was I? Oh yeah, I was just about to tell you about the 135 km of hiking trails found throughout Tharandt. That’s where I started at — telling you about how city dwellers come to the area to get away. The tall trees are a welcome respite from traffic and concrete. What’s really nice are the BBQ areas throughout the forest, so get yourself some picnic grub before trekking all the way out here.

It doesn’t take much to see why Tharandt is called the Jewel of the Forest — sounds so much nicer than Terrific Tharandt. ;-)

Kemnath — Carp In The Upper Palatinate

March 18th, 2015

I wonder when some mucky-muck politician comes up with the idea of combining villages and hamlets into whole new ones, how do they come up with the name? Does it have anything to do with the most populated? The biggest in area? How about they do it by what’s the easiest to pronounce? Yes, that’s got to be it — otherwise the Bavarian town of Kemnath might have one of its other village names, like Hahneneggaten or Oberneumühle. ;-)

Whatever you want to call them, it doesn’t change some facts about Kemnath. Like, did you know Kemnath is known as “das Tor zur Oberpfalz”? Excuse me, the “Door to the Upper Palatinate“, for the English speakers… or would this be readers?

Anyway, the Altstadt (Old Town) of Kemnath is quite charming and pretty, but then again, so is the rest of the place. Now more famous for its location at the Fichtelbirge (and just 55 km from the Czech Republic border), Kemnath used to be known for its Franciscan monastery, Kloster Kemnath. Sorry, it wasn’t a medieval one — founded only in 1658. Too bad it never got any older than a mere 144 years old, as it was dissolved in 1802.

The Wallfahrtskirche zur Heiligen Dreifaltigkeit (Church of the Assumption) is older, built way back in 1448. I know, you can’t tell because of its Baroque interior, but that came along much later.

Even older than that are parts of the original city wall (Stadtmauer) from the 14th century; and along Schmidtstraße you’ll find the Stadt und Zwingermauer, also from the 1300s.

I’d say the only thing older at this point is Burg Waldeck, a castle built in 1124. Well, it used to be a castle — it’s been a ruin for 200+ years.

Good thing you can follow the fish to do and see some of the best of Kemnath. Follow the fish? Yes, that’s what I said — known as the Karpfenweg, you trek along looking for the brightly colored carp around. I know, that’s a new one for me.

What’s not new to me is partying like a Bavarian. And that’s not always the “let the beer flow freely” kind of partying. Actually, Kemnath is famous for its Passion Play (like the ones in Oberammergau), held every five years — the one in 2013 brought folks from all over the region, and beyond.

The only thing I haven’t experienced here yet is all the winter sports. When the powdery white stuff comes to town, so do all the cross-country and downhill skiers, along with all the ice skaters. Too bad for me, that’s not on the agenda yet.

Oh well, hopefully when I walk back out the Gate of the Upper Palatinate, they won’t lock it behind me. ;-)

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