Did you ever see twins and do a double take? You start thinking, “did I have one too many drinks over at the beer garden?” Maybe covering one eye to make sure you’re not seeing double. Ha-ha, that happened to me over in the town of Herdorf, located on the Heller River (which feeds the Sieg).

No, I didn’t have one too many at the beer garden. And, no, I didn’t see some good looking twins (too bad). What I saw was two churches that looked almost identical, right down to the same sharp steeples.

There were some differences, of course. The Evangelical Church is the brightly colored one, while the St. Aloysius Catholic Church is done in a more somber dark stone architecture.

What a way to start a trip, huh?

If you think that’s confusing, imagine the maze of mining tunnels underneath. There are plenty of them in this old mining town, where over 60 million tonnes of earth was excavated over the course of two centuries.

To some that’s not all that impressive, but I would still say to visit the Mining Museum.

You can even go into two of the tunnels in the village of Concordia. On the surface you’ll find 10 information panels on the history of mining, and the metals that were taken. So great was the mining industry that another Mining Museum is found in the village of Sassenroth (one of the three of Herdorf).

All work and no play can make anyone lose their marbles. So, good thing besides all the mining Herdorf has a long festival history. Carnival is a terrific way to party in the darkness of winter.

Corpus Christi brings on another event, a procession leading from the Cross at Leyfels — dedicated to the people who lost their lives in a late 19th century conflict.

No need to wait until Corpus Christi to hike the countryside. Over 60km of hiking trails await, including a stint on one of the European Long Distance Routes (you’ll know it if you’re following the big X on black background).

“X” really does mark the spot.

The most popular spot to stop is the Druid Stone, but this is the Westerwald so you’re never short of being for something to see if you want to keep going.

Not me, I’m sticking around for the Christmas Market in early December, and to see all the half-timbered houses.

No I’m not, I’m hoping to see some twins — just like Herdorf’s two churches. ;-)

How many half-timbered houses can you cram into the less than 19 square kilometers of the town of Haslach im Kinzigtal? Enough to earn it a place on the Deutsche Fachwerkstraße, or German Framework Road.

In the shadow of the half-timbered houses is Haslach’s weekly market. How nice… a chance to shop in an outdoor market with all those historic houses — makes you feel like you’re living a fairytale.

The framework buildings aren’t the only ones to look at. The biggest attraction in town is its Kapuzinerkloster (Capuchin Monastery). While it’s an amazing piece of real estate, with all sorts of chapels, it isn’t a medieval monastery. No, this one came to be during the midst of the raging Thirty Years’ War in 1630.

FYI, Haslach’s Kapuzinerkloster is thought to be the best monastery of the Order in South Germany. Pretty cool considering the French plundered the hell out of it in 1795.

Within the monastery is the Schwarzwälder Trachtenmuseum (Black Forest Costume Museum). More specifically, it’s housed in the former convent. A curious place to put a bunch of brightly colored historical costumes, I would say.

This ain’t a one-horse town, in case you’re wondering. There’s als the Hansjakob Museum. And you can always take a trip to the former silver mine.

As dark as the mines could be, so it seems like winter. Good thing Haslach has festivals during the cold winter months to brighten and warm the days and nights. Carnival (held right before Ash Wednesday) is celebrated in the Swabian-Alemannic style (think Fools, funny masks, that sort of thing); while February 22nd is the annual Storchentag where sweets and other goodies are given out to children.

Hey, I’m a big kid — send the chocolate this way. ;-)

Doesn’t this sound like a great place? Yeah, I thought so too.

If you want to learn or do more, the folks at the Tourist Information Center do a better job of it than I ever could. They’re located at Klosterstrasse 1, and I’ll tell ’em to look out for you — that is, if you don’t get sidetracked looking at all the half-timbered houses.

Along twenty-some odd towns for 120km in eastern Bavaria, is the Bavarian Iron Route. It’s called the Bayerische Eisenstrasse in German, but no matter what language you’re speaking the history of it dates back centuries. Mining is not entirely a new concept, believe it or not.

And not just here in the Upper Palatinate, the Bavarian Iron Route is part of a larger network known as the Cultural Path of Iron that runs into Austria, Hungary, Poland, Slovenia & Slovakia, Romania, and Italy.

To be quite frank, I scratched my head wondering what in the world was iron used for in the Middle Ages. It’s not as if they used it to make steel for building skyscrapers. So, what was all the ore used for? It was used for cannons and cannonballs, agricultural tools (like ploughs and pitchforks), torture apparatus (like the Iron Maiden and thumbscrews), and for all those Knights in Shining Armor.

Go figure, I learned something new today. You’ll also learn something while on the Bavarian Iron Route, since these towns along the way gave it their all in mining, smelting, coking, and everything in-between. I still can’t figure it all out. ;-)

Start Of The Bavarian Iron Route

The Bayerische Eisenstrasse works in a north-south direction, since it isn’t a circular scenic route. And it starts in Pegnitz, where the mines eventually closed in 1968 after being operational for hundreds of years. The Kleiner Johannes mine in its heyday produced over 400,000 tons (that’s almost a million pounds) a year and employing over 600 workers. You can still see part of the caves created from all the mining.

The Farberdegrube (Color Earth Pit) in its Troschenreuth district, which is used as raw material for paint manufacturing for the ceramic industry, is the only one of its kind in Germany. The raw material then went on to the Farberdemühle (Color Earth Mill) in its Hainbronn district (a very beautiful half-timbered house, BTW), where they took the red earth from the nearby Farberdegrube and finely ground it.

Kloster Michelfeld is the next stop, and who doesn’t appreciate a medieval monastery from the 12th century? But, the monks did more than just pray a gazillion times a day. They operated the Hammerwerke, which is why the place is listed on the Bavarian Iron Route.

Auerbach in der Oberpfalz was a huge coal and steel industry town. More than 16 million tons were excavated from the Old Pit between 1904 and 1978, which is why the town had to build a mining colony for all its workers. The miners prayed at the Chapel of St. Barbara (the patron saint of miners) at the Church of St. John the Baptist; and now the mine is a nature area after it closed in 1987.

When you get to Königstein pay a visit to the Maximiliansgrotte, which is one of the largest and most beautiful dripstone caves in Germany.

Inhabited since the Romans, Edelsfeld went on to become big to the mining community. The outdoor museum Goglhof (which is only open on the 2nd & 4th Sunday of the month) is an interesting way to see how life was lived here. You’re also welcome to visit Edelsfeld’s Romanesque & Baroque Protestant church too.

Mining in Sulzbach-Rosenberg began in 1348, and continued right up into the 20th century. The Maxhütte Steel Plant was the largest of its kind in Bavaria, where 9,000 people worked in the industry and its 5 Blast Furnances. Want to know more? Head to the City Museum.

Ready for a quick sidestep? Good. Go ahead and visit Hirschau and its Schnaittenbach district. You’ll meet with a 120-meter high white hill of quartz sand. The nearby GeoPark Kaolinrevier details much of the land’s kaolin mining history at 12 stations along a 6km walking trail.

Back in Sulzbach-Rosenberg and continuing on on the main route of the Bavarian Iron Route, you’ll pass through Poppenricht, where even more ore was mined during Bavaria’s mining heyday. A map from the 17th century was found here, mentioning a number of other big mining hotspots in the area.

Amberg is the next town, and if you were here in the 1930s and ’40s you’d have seen the Hermann-Göring-Reichswerke. It was one of the biggest mining plants of the Third Reich, but mining had been done here from as far back as the Middle Ages. Its location along the Vils and Naab Rivers had something to do with it; and it wasn’t just mined here — smelting was a huge boom to the economy.

By the 1960’s mining was finished, but today you can see the Altstadt (Old Town) and Stadtmauer, Rathaus, the Franciscan Monastery, and the Basilica of St. Martin that mining built. I’d also visit the City Museum and Archaeology Museum if I were you.

Another sidestep can be done to the village of Stulln — where you can take a guided tour every hour into the Quartz pit called Reichhart-Schacht. If you want something rustic to drink & eat, visit the Steigerhäusl.

With mining came big money, enough to build the Schloss Theuren in Kümmersbruck. You’re looking at a Baroque castle now, but it was originally built in the 15th century. Two centuries before that, smelting started in the town, as well as making charcoal. Later on came an Iron Hammerworks that was added to the industrial side of the town.

The monks get in on the mining action again in the town of Ensdorf. The 12th century Benedictine monks had their own charcoal blast furnace, and by the 15th century they had a Hammerwerk. I guess idle hands really are the devil’s workshop. ;-)

Time to move on to Rieden, a small town famous for smelting during the 14th & 15th centuries.

Then along to Schmidmühlen, where manufacturing had been going on way back into the 11th century. I love its 17th century Renaissance Upper Castle — which is where you’ll find the town’s Homeland Museum.

Dietldorf was another mining town, but the Italian Renaissance Schloss is what you’ll most likely remember most. I think the same can be said for the late-Gothic manor house in Rohrbach.

There is another manor house to see in the village of Carolinenhütte, but its claim to fame on the Bavarian Iron Route is because you’ll find the oldest iron foundry here.

Kallmünz links the Bavarian Iron Route with the Salt Road, but everyone comes to see the grave stone of Joachim of Bertholdshofen, a master hammersmith. They also come for a leisurely canoe ride (you can rent one if you didn’t bring your own).

Five places remain on the Bayerische Eisenstrasse, and in Heitzenhofen (part of Duggendorf) during the 15th century more than 500 tons were mined every year. That’s a heckava lot of stuff to be pulling out of the ground, don’t ya think?

Our next place on the route isn’t a town at all. It’s a castle. Burg Wolfsegg might be more famous for its hauntings of the White Lady than its 35-meter deep hole. But, the area has many caves — and the castle offers guided tours on special dates every summer. Which is not, by the way, the same as going to see its Cave Museum.

A destroyed castle (it didn’t survived the Thirty Years’ War) awaits you in the village of Etterzhausen,

Now it’s on to our final stop, Regensburg. During the days of the Romans it was called Castra Regina, and the city now has a UNESCO designation. However, it was huge to the mining and salt trade.

Visit Regensburg’s History Museum, Navigation Museum, Natural History Museum, Reichstag Museum, and Thurn und Taxis Museum (a.k.a. Fürstliches Marstallmuseum) before you leave. OK?

If you were as confused as I was on all this mining stuff (and what it was all used for) then I sure hope traveling along the Bavarian Iron Route helped.

Bavarian Iron Route Web Site

For your convenience, here’s the official Web site of the Bavarian Iron Route.

The number “27” seems to follow a theme here in the town of Freyung. There are 27 districts. It’s 27km to the city of Passau. And it’s 27km to the Austrian border. The only odd thing out is that it’s 17km to the border of the Czech Republic.

We won’t hold that against it. ;-)

Freyung’s geography isn’t the only thing I’m here to talk about. However, I can be here for a while to tell you about the Buchberger Leite. This 100-meter deep gorge is quite a popular place to see when you’re here. You’re not too far if you’re over by the Neuenbuchberg ruins — so, head on over.

While you’re out in the idyllic countryside, travel along the Goldener Steig (Golden Trail). It’s not as daunting as it might sound (hence its sweetening name ;-). This was once a 14th century trade route that went to Bohemia, but you can still see the mule tracks from the animals that used to carry their wares.

In neighboring Waldkirchen there’s a museum that details the history of this medieval trading route.

The medieval of Freyung doesn’t stop at the pack animal tracks. You’ve got a medieval castle too. The only thing is Burg Wolfstein doesn’t look like a medieval castle from the 13th century, even though it was one. Once.

Burg Wolfstein underwent a renovation of sorts back in the 16th century, so that’s what you’re looking at now. Inside is an extensive art collection, and it houses a Hunting & Fishing Museum.

Freyung’s Pilgrimage Church of St. Anna is also a blend of the medieval and the 16th century. Its inside has both Gothic and Baroque artwork — and here’s the scoop on the picture of St. Anna — it’s a copy; this one from the 1633. You know what that means? Yup, the original was much older.

Our last stop in Freyung is the Schramlhaus, the town’s Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum), where the building itself is a piece of the town’s history. As well as it should be, it was built sometime in the 17th century. On the inside are exhibits on the town’s glass making history.

That sure is a lot of history and activity all within a 27 kilometer radius — makes it just perfect then.

First off, don’t mix it up with anything else… this is about the Hessian town of Weimar (Lahn). There is certainly enough of it to find something for everyone, since there are 12 districts.

I’m going to start at the Zeiteninsel, an island that’s part archaeological open air museum and part prehistoric settlement, with lots of foot paths to explore.

From here I’m going to Wolfshausen, a neighborhood that still looks very much like the medieval village that it once was. I’m thinking the 11th century Fortress Church has something to do with it.

Niederweimar is a blend of everything. Found along the Allna River, this village might have a modern Rathaus (Town Hall), but it’s got an old crumbly brick church (I didn’t say it was run-down; I’m just saying that its part of its charm), and right along the Seepark Niederweimar — a recreational lake that’s fun for the entire family.

The village of Argenstein is also known for its natural beauty, and its sandstone bridge. For a truly rustic experience, the village of Weiershausen is where you’ll want to be. It was once “owned” by the Teutonic Knights, and has less than 100 residents (so folks know & support each other).

For all those framework houses, go to Kehna. Even its church is of a half-timbered design. Pretty. Picturesque. Perfect, I would say.

In Roth (yet another village) everyone comes to see the the half-timbered synagogue, known as the Landsynagoge. It took an extensive labor of love (and hard work) to restore the inside after being destroyed in the 1930s.

No one should live by history alone, so good thing Weimar (Lahn) has some great festivals and culture events to keep everyone active. Pfingsten (Pentecost) is one of the biggest events, as is the Kirmes (Church Festival) on the second weekend of August; and the annual Oktoberfest.

I think I’ve lived up to what I said, that everyone can find a good time in Weimar (Lahn), right? :-)

For forty-five years the residents of the town of Waldmünchen were separated from their neighbors by the dreaded Iron Curtain. In August of 1990 the Cold War was over, and again everyone was free to move across the Bavarian border to the neighboring Czech Republic.

In honor of the two countries, Waldmünchen and the Czech Republic work in conjunction with the local museums. Waldmünchen’s contribution is its Feuerwehrmuseum or Fire Department Museum (which is kinda self-explanatory) and the Holzhauermuseum — sort of a local history museum showcasing historic craftsmanship.

I have to say the nearby Museumsbrauerei (Brewery Museum) in Herzogau is one of the best — too bad they stopped brewing beer.

Don’t get all excited, there are plenty of opportunities to drink, eat, and be merry. Every July there’s a Town Festival & the MundArt Festival. On the third week of Lent is a huge Fair, and on the second Saturday of Advent is Waldmünchen’s Christmas Market.

Yikes, I forgot some… on the last Sunday of September is another Fair (please, there are sixty-two (!) villages that make up Waldmünchen so there’s got to be something going on), and then there is the annual Spring Festival.

There are also two Weekly Markets, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

For some quieter pursuit, might I entice you with a visit to the 13th century Gothic Parish & Shrine of Our Lady? Who knew that it would become a pilgrimage church after a countess said she saw the face of the Madonna. Every September the church does a pilgrimage to the Church of St. Stephen in town.

It’s also a quiet activity to try winter hiking, as well as snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. If the weather’s not too bad, you can get yourself a guide. No guide necessary for downhill skiing — but no one said you didn’t need a snowbunny or a cute ski instructor. ;-)

I better be quiet myself, or I’m gonna get in trouble writing comments like that. Better go get lost in the Upper Bavarian Forest Nature Park (alone) instead. ;-)

For anyone living in a warm tropical climate the thought of snow might bring on mixed feelings. For anyone living where the snow makes appearances every winter, and you’re looking for something balmy, I wouldn’t suggest coming to Auenwald.

At least not during the winter, that’s for sure. ;-)

Snow isn’t out of the ordinary here in Auenwald, but that shouldn’t stop you. Imagine how lovely the trees in the Murrhardt Forest will look coated with the stuff.

I just so happen to think that the Ebersberg Castle is really romantic looking all covered in snow. OK, it looks great in the warmer months too. How could it not, it’s a 13th century medieval castle that was destroyed and rebuilt.

Schloss Ebersberg is now an educational center belonging to the Catholic Church and used by the Deutsche Pfadfinderschaft Sankt Georg (DPSG), or German Boy Scouts.

Nothing says winter more than one of Germany’s famous Christmas Markets. Auenwald holds theirs on the Saturday of the second Advent weekend in the village of Unterbrüder (one of its three villages). Not only can you find all sorts of crafts and gifts there, but you’re treated to Christmas caroling and even art exhibits.

Too cold for you? The Krämermarkt is sort of like the same thing as the Christmas Market, just during a warmer time of the year. Held on the third Wednesday of June you can buy all kinds of crafts and local street food from the tented stalls.

Wandering around the Swabian-Franconian Forest Nature Park is a treat during the summer months. Again, the trees all lush green make for a great canopy from the sun as you’re out exploring the many hiking trails.

It won’t take you long to make your way through Auenwald, it’s not even 20 square kilometers — but I’m sure you can see how great things come in small packages. Even better when covered by freshly fallen snow. ;-)

Every time I have a town to write about I try to put myself in your shoes. What would you be interested in? What would you like to hear about? Some towns are known for their scenic beauty, while others are known for their history or super-fun events. Lucky for us, the lovely town of Asbach in the Westerwald has it all.

That makes my job so much easier. ;-)

I didn’t say it was a lot though. But, what Asbach does have is pretty awesome. Surrounded by high hills and thick, lush trees is the Wiedtal — a valley with the Wied River that’s great for canoeing or just talking a stroll along its banks.

Because Asbach lies around the Rhine Westerwald Nature Park, there’s a large network of trails and paths that can be traversed by bicycle or by the power of your own two feet. Three routes specifically will take you around to the best of Asbach, and maps are readily available so you don’t get lost.

You could get lost in the prettiness of Asbach’s Wallfahrtskirche in the village of Niedermühlen, the history of the Monastery Ehrenstein, or the chapel of Ütgenbach.

Museum goers should go on over to the Landschaftsmuseum, with exhibits on all the basalt quarrying that went on here over the years.

A few of Asbach’s events have also been going on over the years, yet each one is grand in its own right. Springtime brings on one of Asbach’s Markets, while May is the most popular month for festivities with both the Parish Festival and the Fun Fair. August brings on another Fair, this time with the annual Krammarkt.

Trains are always fun, so going to see the town’s Steam Locomotive is in order. Just call ahead for an appointment so they can open it up for you.

All this can sure make you tired, so hopefully you’ve found your perfect guesthouse or camp site to get some much needed rest. If you’re hungry, you’ve got a choice of everything from taverns to ice cream shops.

I know ice cream doesn’t count as real food, but it makes me happy. Plus, when I’m happy, it makes my job go so much easier. Exactly like the town of Asbach did. ;-)

Following the Elz River in the Southern Black Forest, you’ll find the town of Elzach. Yup, I said the magic words Black Forest. But, this isn’t Elzach’s only quality, ya know.

There’s gotta be something special about it. Otherwise why would writer Ernest Hemingway have come to fish here?

Casting your line isn’t the only “sport” that you’re able to do around the place. Anyone looking for a quiet activity will certainly appreciate the Waldlehrpfad (Forest Trail) or the Nordic Walking trails that can be done with a comfortable pair of shoes and your own thoughts.

Who’s not to say that you won’t come up with a novel like Hemingway? Not all of you are allowed to be writers though — you’ll put me out of work. ;-)

So, let’s move on before I’m out of a job. Try paragliding and mountain biking. This way you’ll be too busy peddling and looking at the Black Forest scenery instead.

Too much activity? Less “adventurous” pursuits can be either a game of miniature golf, or a dip in the town’s heated outdoor swimming pool.

It’s all good… the pool is heated. The Black Forest isn’t exactly known for being a tropical destination.

What is known for is lots (and lots) of winter sports. If you’ve never tried snow shoeing, go on give it a shot. Careering down the mountainside while downhill skiing is a real rush; while cross-country skiing is a true test of endurance.

You’re on your own. I’m heading to the Weekly Market (Tuesdays & Saturdays) where I can buy freshly baked bread and other goodies.

Sounds like a plan. ;-)

When I’m done eating my way through the market, I’m going to see the castles. Well, not exactly, because nothing really remains of either Burg Hünersedel and Burg Katenmoos. They were here once, I swear.

If you don’t believe me, the Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) at the Alte Sparkasse can explain it all.

The museum will also explain all about the Carnival Elzach, a winter event that’s so big it goes on for 3 days. It’s been this way since 1530, believe it or not.

Oh, I guess the magic word should’ve been “3-day Party” — but the Black Forest is just as good.

When you got to the edge of the Palatinate Forest you’ll find the town of Enkenbach-Alsenborn. They used to be independent villages, and now are part of a Collective Municipality.

There’s a long history in Enkenbach-Alsenborn, dating back to at least the Bronze and Iron Ages as a few prehistoric graves have been found.

Coins from the Roman era have been found too, but I’m not suggesting you head over here with a metal detector. Well, not at first — there are a number of things to see and do here first.

Too bad nothing remains of the 12th century Burg Breidenborn. It was destroyed in 1436, left to the elements until 1825 when it totally demolished.

At least Castle Alsenborn is still around to see. Well, I mean parts of this 12th century castle are here to see since its in ruins. It’s also the venue for medieval reenactments.

Speaking of the medieval, time to see the Monastic Church in the village of Enkenbach. It was once part of a Premonstratensian Kloster, and even if the monastery is gone — at least you’re able to see parts of it in terms of its church.

The other must-see church is the town’s Protestant Church. Most of what you’re looking at today was built in 1733, but hidden within were 13th century medieval frescoes. Beautiful.

Church art isn’t the only kind in Enkenbach-Alsenborn. Throughout much of the public areas in town are all sorts of fountains, reliefs, and sculptures. One of the most notable is the 10-ton, 3-meter diameter cast-iron ball, and then there’s the elephant plow sculpture.

Art is subjective, and while you might not be all excited about the ball — there are lots of artists in town, so you’re bound to find something you like.

After that, go see the Circus Museum, and party at the annual Cukoo’s Fete in July. Wait, one more stop… the Fritz Walter Museum, dedicated to the World Championship German National Team Captain.

Now, you’re ready to hit up the countryside with one of the metal detector things looking for Roman money. :-)