Lahntal — Proudly Representing The Lahn Valley

January 9th, 2012

Pleasantly surprised would be a good term to use for how I felt about the Hessian town of Lahntal. It’s not very big, barely 41 square kilometers spread out around the Lahn Dill Berland Park area over seven villages.

Most people come to see the tower of the village church in Sterzhausen. Even I was hard pressed not to be in awe of this massive stone tower; said to be one of the oldest buildings within the Lahn Valley.

They’re not my words — but it does date to around the 12th century so that could very well be true. And totally not true if the 10th century Burgstall Brungershausen was still around. It’s not, sorry.

Instead of looking for a long-gone castle, how about going to see the Wichtelhäuser Steine — a massive, natural rock grouping in Brungershausen? :-)

Brungerhausen is really small, with not even 100 residents. So, that means plenty of space along the Lahntal Bike Trail.

Caldern is a lot more populated (just over 1300 people), once visited by St. Boniface. This village once had its own monastery, which might be gone now, but its 13th century Romanesque church is still around. So are parts of its original medieval walls.

In the village of Goßfelden there’s a museum of the works of Otto Ubbelohde, who just so happened to be one of the most famous illustrators of the Brothers Grimm stories. His grand-niece, BTW, lives in his house today.

This is also where the 4-day Village Festival has been taking place for the last 600 years. This isn’t an annual event, mind you, but held only once every seven years.

Only three villages left to see. Kernbach’s biggest site is its 17th century timber-framed church. The village of Sarnau also has one of these to see, and since it lies along the Lahn River — a leisurely stroll along the banks is quite soothing to the soul.

The quite village of Göttingen (it doesn’t even have 300 residents) can do the same thing, ya know. If you’re wanting to hop along the upper Lahn Valley Railways, this is where you need to be.

Not me, Friends, I’m going out into the countryside — you’re right at the foothills of the Rothaargebirge. Plus, the view from the Rimbergturm is extraordinary.

Pleasantly surprised? No, totally fascinated would be a better term.

Bad Köstritz — Well-Being, Black Beer, And Princes of Reuss

January 9th, 2012

Amidst the rolling meadows and forest is not your everyday typical spa town. Bad Köstritz in Thuringia is more than just its salt springs that were founded hundreds of years ago.

This is a music town, and more famous for its stop along the Princes of Reuss Route, a scenic route detailing 800 years of one family’s history.

As famous as the Reusses were, they’re partly responsible for the (possibly) more famous Schwarzbier (Black Beer). Since 1543 the dark brew has been made here, even being written about by scholar von Humboldt and the even more famous Goethe.

Sound like your kind of place? Good, go to the Köstritzer Schwarzbierbrauerei for a tour to see how they’re making the stuff you (and I) are drinking. Guided tours of this cute town will bring you here, as they’ll also bring you to the Church of St. Leonhard, and passing the former palace that’s now a government building.

No trip here is ever fully complete without, not a trip to the spa, but to the Heinrich-Schütz-Haus. Mister Schütz was a most magnificent composer, and the restored House is now the venue for all sorts of concerts. Every October the Heinrich Schütz Music Festival takes place.

Music to my ears. ;-)

Julius Sturm was another famous resident, known for his poetry. Look around, you’ll find monuments and memorials to both Bad Köstritz’s famous sons.

I’m thinking they were inspired by the banks of the White Elster River with the forest and hills in the distance. Trust me, after walking around the Castle Park (with a zoo no less) or over by the Rose Garden in the City Park you’ll be inspired too.

Hey, it did wonders for me.

Of course with 27km of hiking trails or a ride along the Elster Radweg, you might find some inspiration and peace of mind for yourself.

Peace and quiet aren’t on the agenda if you’re here for one of Bad Köstritz’s festivals. Things really kick off in July when the Beach Rugby Cup takes place, followed by the Köstritzer Werfertag, a sporting event in August.

September is a bit more subdued when the Dahlia Festival Queen is crowned. The dahlias are so revered here that you’ll find a whole exhibit on them.

I told you this wasn’t a typical German spa town — and so wonderful that a massage didn’t even enter my mind. ;-)

Jockgrim — Worldwide Known For Its Roof Tile Industry

January 8th, 2012

There are a lot of things to do in the nearby city of Karlsruhe, but if you have a day to explore its surrounding towns I’d suggest you make it over the Rhine to the small town of Jockgrim, located just 15km northwest.

I promise it won’t take you long to explore Jockgrim (which is part of a collective municipality of the same name) since it isn’t even thirteen square kilometers.

Jockgrim’s small size didn’t stop the town from becoming one of the biggest producers of bricks in the world. There is a Ziegeleimuseum or Roof Tile Museum here (open Sundays 2pm – 4pm) that details most of the industry’s history, and the one company that changed the industry forever.

Over at the Evangelical Church is the grave chapel of Mister Ludowici, the man responsible for the real success of the roof tile and brick work.

The Kugelhaus, BTW, is a 2-person ball shaped house that was the brainchild of Mr. Ludowici. And his art collection is worth looking at too.

What other sites does Jockgrim hold in store? Well, at Ziegelbergstrasse 2 there’s a Baroque shrine from 1746. You can’t miss it, it’s yellow.

Over at Ludwigstr. 19 is the 18th century St. Dionysius Church, whose tower can be seen so far in the distance from all of the town’s rolling hills and fields.

Also found along Ludwigstr., which is part of the original walled city and why it has a Stadttor (City Gate), if you will, are many half-timbered houses from the 16th to 19th centuries.

They just don’t build them like that anymore.

Sorry, no lamenting — I still need to tell you about the Schweinheimer Kirchel, a small chapel from 1051 A.D.

You might’ve noticed that I haven’t mentioned a castle yet. And I won’t, since the 14th century Burg Jockgrim is long gone.

What’s left for us is to pray that the roof tile industry stays alive.

Gerbstedt — A Medieval Battle With The Holy Roman Empire

January 7th, 2012

The quiet town of Gerbstedt in Saxony-Anhalt today is a far cry from the village you would have seen nine hundred years ago. And I’m not just talking about the whole modern day convenience thing.

On February 11, 1115 troops converged on Gerbstedt (actually it was the village of Welfesholz) with the Holy Roman Empire facing off against a band of Saxons. Henry V was in charge of the HRE troops, while Lothar was the leader of the Saxons.

Who won the Battle of Welfesholz? Lothar did, and his win was a statement to the Holy Roman Empire that they weren’t welcome in Saxony.

In a weird turn of events, Lothar became Holy Roman Emperor 10 years later.

Before you go asking “what’s with the history lesson,” I thought it’d be nice to mention while you’re out and about sightseeing at places like the St. Andreas (St. Andrew) Church located at the corner of Augsdorfer Straße and Schulstraße in Siersleben. It might not look like it, but it was a Romanesque Church built in 1230.

In the village of Gerbstedt proper, it isn’t the prehistoric grave mounds, or the Renaissance style Town Hall that’s really cool looking. Nope, it’s the miniature model of Quedlinburg Cathedral, And so are the underground passages under the castle grounds and park. Too bad you can’t travel your way around them any more.

So, I guess it’s off to see the St. John Church and the bell tower of the former Gerbstedt Monastery (believe it or not, there are some 18 churches spread out over Gerbstedt’s nine districts).

Heiligenthal has its own prehistoric grave, but it can boast that it’s a Prince’s grave (a Fürstengrab) from around 1800 B.C.

Where to go next? How ’bout Evil Castle? Not an Evil Castle, but the village of Bösenburg, that translates to evil castle. You’ll love the views from atop the Castle Hill. Just watch out for the holes that plague the hill.

I wonder if Renaissance composer Valentin Haussmann was inspired by the view? Maybe he used the ruins of Lodderstedt as inspiration instead.

Lodderstedt isn’t a castle or church, BTW, it’s a deserted village.

Nah, couldn’t have — the Renaissance was a time of enlightenment, a far cry from the dark days of Lothar’s medieval battle.

Eibenstock — Mountain Biking And Festivals In The Ore Mountains

December 28th, 2011

For the really ambitious types the town of Eibenstock might be for you. Located in the Western Ore Mountains, the town lies along the Mulde Cycle Path — making it just perfect for those wishing to bike in a mountain setting close to the Mulde River.

I’m pretty sure I’m not the only one that’s not that crazy. Sorry, I mean active. ;-)

For those of you who think “no way and fat chance I’m gonna do that,” rest assured Eibenstock’s got something for you too.

A good walk never hurt anyone, so instead of cycling you can always hike through this part of the Ore Mountains (Erzgebirge in German). The village of Wildenthal lies within the Nature Park Erzgebirge/Vogtland, and there’s even an observation tower to overlook the countryside.

One of the best views is atop the Adlerfels, that also has a ski lift in the winter.

You’ll probably run into a whole bunch of folks making their way along the E3 European Hiking Route while you’re out there. Still too much? At least make it far enough to see the waterfall in the village of Blauenthal. Deal?

Hikers are always welcome to rest in Blauenthal, and everyone is welcome to see its village church and the Hammerherrenhaus.

A Hammerherrenhaus awaits in the village of Wolfsgrün, as does the Wolfsgrüner Schlößchen, a manorhouse built in 1904.

Winter doesn’t stop anyone from enjoying anything. Folks are flocking here for the Winter Sports Festival (Jan/Feb). Plus, the snow brings out those looking to ski, try tobogganing, and even do some winter hiking.

Oh yeah, that reminds me… Eibenstock has guided monthly hikes in case you’re interested. You go on… I’m checking out the Eibenstock Lake, which started out as a dam project.

The village of Sosa has its own dam (the Sosa Dam), and it has an early 17th century church to see too.

I know, you want festivals. On Walpurgis Night (April 30) there’s the Hexenfeuer (Witch’s Fire), and another fire festival of sorts on October 2nd. The kids love the Children’s Festival on June 1st, and it’s a great time to be had by all at the Hammerfest on the second weekend of August.

I can so totally get into that — and no mountain biking necessary. ;-)

Kreiensen Is Not Trying To Fill Anyone’s Shoes

December 23rd, 2011

Lower Saxony is a most curious place. Especially when you’ve got places like Kreiensen; a small town near the Harz Mountains that’s totally enveloped by the bigger towns of Einbeck, Bad Gandersheim, and Northeim.

They are some big shoes to fill, aren’t they?

The funny thing is, Kreisensen doesn’t try to fill anyone’s shoes. It’s just happy and content to be just as it is. What is it?

Well, for starters, it’s a town that really likes to party. Not the whole lampshade on your head kind of party (so un-German), but it’s still a good time to be had by all at the obligatory Christmas Market on the second weekend of Advent. And the Nicholas Market, held right beforehand.

The Dance Into May is a festive time with lots of music and, of course, beer. It’s the Castle Festival that’s one of the biggest events — and any place that’s got a castle fest has to have a castle, right?

Welcome to Burg Greene, a castle that’s been right on this very spot since 1308.

Speaking of “green,” the village of Greene is over a thousand years old; and its Church of St. Martin has the most amazing medieval frescoes from the 15th century — when the church was built.

Yikes! I got this far without telling you about the Burgturm. The former castle tower stands 25 meters, and if you’re here visiting between April and October you’ll be treated to some outstanding Lower Saxon views.

You don’t go up to see the wonder of the Railway Viaduct, you go down. I know, I’m not making any sense — but hear me out…

Unlike the Burgturm, where you gotta climb up to see what makes it so amazing, the Railway Viaduct is a true feat of German engineering — and it’s best seen from street level looking up. Only then can you truly appreciate this modern marvel.

Stay there if you must, but I’m going out into the Harz Mountains — there’s a hiking trail with my name on. Oh, you’re going to take on out in the surrounding Solling Mountains? Great, let’s meet up again somewhere else when we’re done in Kreiensen. ;-)

Kalbe (Milde) — Something Special In The Altmark

December 23rd, 2011

Kalbe (Milde), which lies within the Altmark, was once home to the von Alvensleben Family.

Some of the von Alvensleben family lived in the Burg Kalbe, that’s now a ruined water castle from either the 9th or 10th century. What’s truly remarkable about this castle (other than being a Saxon Fortress) is that it had not one, not two, but at least three moats.

A bit paranoid about protection, huh? ;-)

FYI, the von Alvenslebens have dedicated their lives to Germany, going on to be everything from Prussian Generals to politicians, ambassadors, an abbess, and even a Grand Master of the Order of St. John.

The von Alvenslebens aren’t the only famous “people” to be talked about here. In the village of Zethlingen there’s an outdoor museum that talks about the famous Lombards (those Nibelungenlied guys), built over prehistoric “fire graves” (called Brandgrab in German).

In any language, it’s just a nice way of saying urnfield.

Like medieval churches? I hope so, ’cause Kalbe on the Milde River has a number of them. There’s a Romanesque one from the 12th century in the village of Wernstedt, and another in the village of Güssefeld with all sorts of frescoes decorating it.

The village of Jeggeleben isn’t going to be left out, so after see its early Gothic stone church, go see its 18th century Windmill, and what remains of its former castle.

Kakerbeck has a medieval church (a 13th century Romanesque one) with ceiling paintings too. And in Vienau, there are two medieval churches — and the ruins of an 18th century manor house.

Come to think of it… the Altmark is great, yes, but Kalbe has something special too.

Jerichow — A Wonderful Land, A German Movie, A Scenic Route

December 13th, 2011

Ugh, I looked and looked for familiar sites of the town of Jerichow in the 2008 film of the same name. And you know what? None of the movie was filmed here — that was done in places like Wittenberge and the Prignitz.

So, I guess I’ll have to make my own movie.

I’ll be here for a while. Jerichow is said to be one of the largest municipalities (in terms of area) in Germany. Since this is my film I better scope out locations for it, huh?

There probably isn’t a better place to start than at Jerichow Abbey. Even though this 12th century abbey hasn’t been around since the Protestant Reformation, the church is still here — and is such a grand example of Romanesque architecture that it’s given a stop on the Romanesque Route, despite being damaged by bombings during World War II.

Where else should I shoot my movie? The Baroque Village Church in Altenklitsche (a village that holds a big festival on German Unity Day) would be another good place.

Even better might be the Village Church in Kade, whose altarpiece was done by none other than Lucas Cranach the Elder.

Kade, BTW, used to be occupied by the French — and started as a simple Slavic village.

Then there is the Romanesque church in the village of Redekin, mostly known for its Romanesque frieze, its sundials, and a bronze crucifix from the 12th century.

In Schlagenthin there’s a half-timbered part stone village church, that’ll make a good movie location — as will Castle Schlagenthin.

You gotta have a party scene in a movie, right? Well, I’ll wait until the first weekend of August so I can capture the fun of the Neptune Festival in the village of Zabakuck.

I just thought that my “Jerichow” movie needs a nature scene. Good thing I have a choice between the Elbe River and the nature area around the village of Klietznick.

Jerichow’s Windmill is another site that would make a great movie location, don’t ya think?

After all this, it doesn’t matter that the movie Jerichow wasn’t shot here — I did it myself.

Darn, I can’t believe I forgot film in the camera. Guess this is why I write instead of making films. ;-)

Murg — The High Rhine And Black Forest Will Perk You Up

December 11th, 2011

There are two words that will get my ears perked up in a nanosecond. Black Forest. Oh, did your ears just pick up too? Wait, you’re reading about the Southern Black Forest town of Murg, so did your eyes light up?

Forget that Murg is close to the Swiss border, I said (typed) Black Forest. ;-)

Seriously though, the Südschwarzwald gets more than 20 million people a year coming through; and it’s no wonder when you have places like Murg.

Being outside is your best option, so grab a friend and make your way to one of the hiking trails, biking paths, or mountain biking lanes.

Murg has some wonderful themed trails, like the Hotzenwald-High Rhine, the Rhine-Jura, the Rhine Tour (oh, notice a pattern going on here), the Buchenwald area, and the Zurich Lowlands.

I don’t want to hear you complaining that its winter. Put a Parka on, and go cross country skiing or try snowshoeing for the first time. ;-)

The festivals here are first-rate, that’s for sure. The Schlachtfest and Advent Bazaar is held at the end of November, a warm-up for the annual Christmas Market and the Nicholas Celebration.

Eating is also one of the best things to do here. The weekly Organic and Farmer’s Market is the best place, and you don’t have to worry about being an early-bird — it starts at 3pm. Trust me… the cheeses, bacon, sausages, and cakes are well worth the wait.

In addition to good food, the best scenery on the planet, and fantastic festivals, Murg has history too. There’s an interesting Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) at the Rathaus; and you’ll want to stop to see the Anthony Chapel, St. Magnus Church, and the St. Leongar Parish Church.

Sorry, what you’ll really want to see is the Burgruine Wieladingen. Interestingly enough, the castle (built in 1260) has actually been in ruins for more than five centuries — longer than it stood intact.

It’s towns like Murg that’s the real reason my ear perk up when I hear about the Black Forest — and my heart skip a beat when I see it. :-)

Möser — The Joys Of Being Ordinary In The Extraordinary

December 11th, 2011

Leave it to us Germans to take what was once swamp land, and turn it into something extraordinary. At least that’s what I think about the town of Möser.

As history and architecture loving as I am, that’s all secondary to the countryside that surrounds Möser. It was created during the last Ice Age, lying along what’s called the Elbe Flood Plain situated in the High Fläming.

There are also a number of vineyards (and a 400 year old Windmill) in the area of Möser, so take a flask with you while you’re off on a hiking trail. Do yourself a favor, don’t try to drink and bicycle your way around.

Trust me, my bruises have bruises. ;-)

Whether walking or cycling, the villages of Möser are a delight. In Hohenwarthe you’ll find a Romanesque church that’s now decorated in a Baroque style. Of course if you want to stay for services, its now of the Evangelical denomination.

Körbelitz is another village with a medieval church. St. Pancratii was built in 1209, but its pulpit didn’t come along for another four centuries.

This is also where you’ll see the Stone Age Hünengrab, a prehistoric grave site.

Moving on to Lostau, where they too have a medieval church that also holds Evangelical services. What makes this fortified church really remarkable (besides its age since it was build around 1150) is its baptismal font donated by Henry the Lion.

Over in Schermen they have their own Village Church, though not as old as the others — this one didn’t come along until the 16th century. But, they have an old Watermill and a 250 year old Mulberry tree.

Anyone wanna see a castle? Silly question, of course you do.

That’ll be over in the village of Pietzpuhl where a Baroque castle awaits — once home to a Prussian Queen.

I hardly think that Prussian royalty would’ve been out shopping at Möser’s annual Christmas Market. Ahh, the joys of being ordinary in the extraordinary town of Möser.

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