Ammersee — A New Species Near The Old Alps

October 26th, 2011

I’d bet dollars to donuts that none of you out there won’t find the scenery around the Ammersee completely, totally, and utterly gorgeous. How could you not, they’re the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. ;-)

The Alps are secondary to the Ammersee itself, a 47 square meter lake that’s kind of deep — some 80 meters at its deepest point. No wonder a new species of fish wasn’t discovered here until 2010 (it’s the Ammersee-Kaulbarsch, BTW). But, then again, it’s fed by the Ammer River, and water leaves by the Amper — so anything could make its way in.

I joke, but fishing is big on the Ammersee. So are all the watersports that you can do on (and under) the surface. However, if you’re wanting to waterski you can only do it at the south end of the lake. Funny, that’s how it is over at Lake Starnberg.

Sailing and windsurfing are seriously fun activities, and a ride on one of the paddle ships is both romantic and fun. As I said before, no wonder all the urbanites from Munich (and Augsburg) come here to suck up the fresh air and burn off some steam.

FYI, traffic can get pretty backed up as the city folks make their way to the lake. I don’t think the Celts who came this way via the Brenner Pass had these problems. ;-)

Some people prefer to stay on dry land (but still enjoy a lake view). So for those folks I’d recommend heading to Schondorf to walk along its promenade, or to sit at one of the lakeview beer gardens. Schondorf does have some history, which is seen at its mid-12th century Jakobskirche or the St. Anne Church (built 1499).

The water of the Ammersee plays a big part of life in Utting, where they’re always holding some regatta or another. As well as an Arts & Crafts Market in July, a Leonhardiritt and Christmas Market (both in November). Any other time find one of its bike paths and cycle away.

In the Holzhausen village of Utting there’s an Artists Colony, and every April to October the small museum at the Künstlerhaus Gasteiger is open.

Herrsching loves its location along the Ammersee just as much, which is why there’s a lakefront promenade here too. This is a great place to rent a boat so you can enjoy the middle of the lake, or you can take a paddle steamer trek instead. Land lubber? It’s all right, go visit the Archaeological Park instead — then go take a leisurely dip at the swimming area.

From here you can get to the Schwedeninsel, or Sweden Island. It got its name because during the Thirty Years’ War many people from nearby Dießen escaped for their lives. Heaven knows how many people it could have held, since the island is only 180-meters by 170-meters.

Oh, I guess that is about 3 square kilometers, isn’t it? Plenty of space for the nature reserve area that it is now. ;-)

Dießen isn’t in any danger of being invaded by the Swedes (unless you know something I don’t), so why not come see the town’s St. George Church, the Marien Münster, or hike a bit of the King Ludwig Trail (that runs 120km from Berg to Füssen).

At the far north of the Ammersee is Inning, where you can horseback ride, or play tennis all you want. I like its Weinfest (Wine Festival) in mid-October, but I ain’t gonna turn down a chance to go sailing on the Ammersee from here.

Heck, I won’t miss any chance to see the Alps, any way I can get it. And in this case… I’ll take it on the Ammersee.

Lake Schwerin — With Spirit And Plenty Of Fish To Greatness

October 26th, 2011

Lake Schwerin, or the Schweriner See, is half the size of its nearest lake neighbor, the majestic Müritz. But, what it lacks in size, it makes up for it with spirit.

It’s surrounded by by some other smaller lakes, known for its bird sanctuary, and the rainbow trout (as well as pike, eel, and perch) that swim its 52-meter depth (at its deepest point). Lake Schwerin also has the honor of being the second largest lake in North Germany and the 4th largest in the country.

Lake Schwerin feeds the River Stör, which is a tributary of the River Elde. A canal in the 16th century (known as the Wallensteingraben) connects the area to the Baltic Sea and to the historical port city of Wismar.

So, now that you know how to get here, grab your boat and follow me to some awesome places. OK?

One of the grandest sites along the Schweriner See (at least I think so) is the Schweriner Schloss in the town of Schwerin. This castle might be the seat of the state government today (Schwerin is the state’s capital), but it’s still a 10th century castle at heart.

Schwerin is also where you can take in a performance at the Mecklenburg State Theater, visit its State Museum or Cathedral, or party all you want during its Christopher Street Day on the 1st Saturday in July.

What I get a kick out of is that the spa town of Bad Kleinen translates to Bad Kids. But, it’s all good in this half-timbered village that’s right on the northern shore of the Schweriner See.

To totally experience the natural side of the lake, then its Seehof you want. It’s a small village of less than a thousand people that’s got all sorts of rare plants, peat, birds, and small inns & guesthouses.

Plus, there’s a bird sanctuary in the village of Zickhusen (which is part of Lützow, BTW).

If spending the night out under the stars on Lake Schwerin isn’t an option, then might I suggest a visit to the Görslow Village Church (in the town of Leezen), that’s got its own starry sky painted on.

Nah, take the real thing — Lake Schwerin is a totally fantastic lake. Didn’t I tell you it’s got spirit? :-)

Müritz — The Largest Lake INSIDE Germany

October 26th, 2011

Poor Müritz. It takes second fiddle to the Bodensee in the fact that Lake Constance is considered the largest lake in Germany. However, I’ll sing Müritz’s praises that it’s the largest lake IN Germany.

Confused? Don’t be. Lake Constance shares its shores with Austria and Switzerland, while the Müritz is completely surrounded by German soil. See? IN Germany. ;-)

How big is the Müritz? Well, its total surface area is just over 112 square kilometers; and at its deepest point is some 31-meters. The coolest part is that the lake was created during the last Ice Age, and that it’s surrounded by awesome towns and villages, and it is part of the Mecklenburg Lakes (in case the Müritz is not enough for ya).

FYI, on the eastern edge is a national park that’s kind of swampy and forested. So, if you’re not totally into the nature thing, stick to the hamlets and shires dotting its shores.

You don’t necessarily need a car to get to the Müritz because it’s connected to the Müritz Havel Waterway that sees over 40,000 recreational boats a year. Believe it or not, that means you could actually experience a traffic jam. It’s also connected to the Kölpinsee (another lake) via the Reeckkanal, so you can get here from there too.

Because lakes are different from rivers (as they have no start or end point) it’s not so easy to follow it downstream. However, with a boat you can zig-zag, criss-cross, go clock or counter clockwise all you want to the towns sitting on its banks.

Places like the isthmus of Klink (yeah, like Colonel Klink from Hogan’s Heroes) with its neo-Renaissance style castle that’s now a hotel. Or, to towns like Röbel that has an awesome 19th century Gallery Dutch windmill not too far from a 13th century medieval church.

Next to Röbel is Sietow where every year they hold a Port Fest; and as any water loving town like Ludorf there’s a museum to ship building. It’s the villages of Vipperow that’ll stun you with its amazing Romanesque church that’s got an outstanding painting of the Last Judgement from the 14th century.

Most come to this lake via Waren, though, the largest town at the Müritz. No wonder as it’s a spa town.

In order to gain entry into the Müritz National Park, boat your way over to Rechlin. What you’ll also find here is an Aviation Tech Museum, a World War I Memorial, and the very pretty 19th century Church of St. John.

Do you see what kind of adventures and fantastic places await you here at the Müritz? The best part? It’s all totally German.

Lake Starnberg — Notorious And Utterly Fabulous

October 26th, 2011

Lake Starnberg, or the Starnberger See, is notoriously famous because the body of Bavarian King Ludwig II washed ashore on June 13, 1886. It is also famous because this German lake is a super-awesome watersporting adventure.

Whether you’re in the lake, or just walking along its shores, the Starnberger See is one adventure after another. You can even bicycle around the entire thing on its 46.2km (28.7mi) bike trail.

Even if you’re not a cycling enthusiast, I think you’ll enjoy just being outdoors here in this part of Upper Bavaria. The fishermen out there would probably rather be out on it to catch all the carp, catfish, pike, trout, and whitefish. You just better bring a lot of fishing line since Lake Starnberg is more than 127 meters deep (not all of it, buddy, only at its deepest point).

I guess this is why Lake Starnberg is considered to be one of Germany’s lakes with the most water. That must have been some Ice Age glacier that created this slice of liquid heaven, huh? That would also explain why it takes quite a long time for the lake to get warm. ;-)

Hmm, I wonder if the River Würm (Lake Starnberg’s outlet) is just as cold; and I’m not jumping in to find out.

Oh, in case you’re still wondering the heck Lake Starnberg is, it’s merely 25km south of Munich. (Now you know, right? ;-)

The town of Starnberg is the first hot spot on the Starnberger See and the arrival point for most of Munich’s high society. Here you’ll find lots of yachts and boats, and lovely holiday homes and restaurants dot the shores.

I’d rather be on the shores in the town of Berg (Starnberg), where King Ludwig’s body washed up. An apology is in order — I keep calling him “Mad” King Ludwig. But, no evidence has been shown to say he was crazy — he certainly was a visionary. You’d have to be to create the most magnificent Neuschwanstein Castle.

Anyway, there’s a small votive chapel where Ludwig’s body was found. While you’re here, you might as well check out the Bismarck tower and the art in the Rathaus. If you’re following the Way Of St. James, you’ll already be here; so that’s convenient. And if you’re in the mood for a long-distance hiking trail, this is the starting point for the King Ludwig Trail.

King Ludwig was a big deal around Lake Starnberg. He was a frequent visitor to Rose Island (with his first-cousin, Elisabeth the Empress of Austria). This is why the island is on the Sisi’s Road scenic route (and part of the town of Feldafing). There isn’t any traffic on the island, so walking around its gardens and along its villa is quite lovely. A ferry will shuttle you across to the mainland, and it only takes a few minutes since the island is only 170 meters offshore.

Another must-see stop along the Starnberger See is Bernried, home to the 12th century Kloster Bernried. Belonging to the Augustinian Order, they built the grand Stiftskirche St. Martin in 1122. And the town is also home to a Museum of Fantasy Art. As if the lake isn’t inspiring enough?

The Benedictines didn’t want to be too far from Lake Starnberg, so they built the Kloster Andechs in Tutzing. Because this is about the lake, it’s good to mention that Tutzing has a Museumsschiff (Museum Ship). Theirs is a boat built in the 1930s, and for three seasons a year it’s a great floating bistro.

As you come around to the southern part of Lake Starnberg you might notice something that you didn’t see up north: waterskiing. Yes, the lake has all sorts of watersporting activities, but waterskiing is only done in its southern region, and restrictions apply. However, you’re more than welcome to canoe, sail, windsurf, and SCUBA dive just about all you want.

In Possenhofen (part of Pöcking) there’s a great swimming beach area. And if you’re still into the whole historical thing, Sisi’s Road comes here too.

Being only 25km south of the city of Munich, I can certainly see why so many of the city dwellers take off to Lake Starnberg as soon as they get a chance. They also head off towards the Ammersee, but that’s another webpage. ;-)

German Lakes Are Just The Right Place To Be

October 26th, 2011

There are a number of pages on MyGermancity.com that make jokes about Germany not being a “tropical” destination. No one expects to find fruity cocktails (with an umbrella, of course) and palm trees on white sandy beaches here (although this does exist).

But, that doesn’t mean that Germany isn’t a country in love with the water. In fact, we’re obsessed with it. Any chance to be outside to sail or surf, waterski and windsurf; it doesn’t matter. We Germans want to do it all. So, our love of our lakes is understandable.

Some of the best scenery around Germany is seen from the shores of its lakes. If you’ve ever seen the Alps from the shores of the Königssee you know what I’m talking about. For anyone wanting to hike the Watzmann, you go right on ahead. I think I’ll stay right here & wave to you. ;-)

Lake Tegernsee is another lake with a view of the Bavarian Alps, while the Forggensee — Germany’s largest reservoir and what I call “Bavarian’s Bathtub” — gives you a great chance to sail around the Allgäu region, and to towns like Füssen and Roßhaupten on the Via Claudia Augusta scenic route.

Can’t you imagine yourself sitting at a lakeside beer garden in Schondorf, or bird watching at a nature area bird sanctuary right on the shore of the Ammersee?

And who could ever forget about Lake Starnberg, forever immortalized because the body of Bavarian King Ludwig II washed up on its shores in a cloud of controversy.

Bavaria doesn’t hold the monopoly on lakes in Germany, though. Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania is chocked full of them (speaking of the Mecklenburg Lakes); and the Müritz is the largest of them all.

Yes, I’m aware that Lake Constance (or the Bodensee, if you will) is actually the largest lake in Germany, but it shares its water with a couple of other countries. So, that means the Müritz is actually the largest of its kind totally within the German borders.

Another one of Mecklenburg’s lakes is Lake Schwerin, or the Schweriner See, which goes right up to the Schwerin Castle — one of the country’s most spectacular castles (that’s now a government building, BTW).

Then Lake Plau (Plauer See) in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania (and not to confuse you with Lake Plaue in Brandenburg) is totally surrounded by quaint villages (some with only a few hundred residents) with medieval churches, half-timbered houses, and nature areas.

For anyone looking for a beachy tropical vacation, more power to you. But, if you want the water with a blend of friendly villages, watersports, history, and castles — then you now know that one of Germany’s lakes is just the right place to be.

Weser Renaissance Route — The Best Of Weser Architecture

October 25th, 2011

I thought long and hard about what to tell you about the Weser Renaissance Route, or Strasse der Weserrenaissance in German. I thought about comparing it to the Romanesque Route (the Strasse der Romanik), but that’s like comparing apples to french fries.

Then I thought, maybe they weren’t so different after all. They’re both routes that highlight the very best of art and architecture from their respective time periods. And the Weser Renaissance Route just about picks up where the Romanesque Route leaves off (OK, give or take a few centuries) centering around the 16th and 17th centuries.

The Weser Renaissance Route is actually a 400km/249mi long route through Hesse, North Rhine-Westphalia, Lower Saxony, and Bremen.

Start of the Weser Renaissance Route

It’s supposed to start in Hann. Münden (short for Hannoversch Münden), ending in Bremen, but I’m not always one to follow the rules; so I’m going around my way (all the better to see the countryside, wouldn’t you say?).

OK, maybe we’ll follow the rules a tad bit and START in Hann. Münden. The town itself earns its place on the Weser Renaissance Route because of its Weser Renaissance style Rathaus (Town Hall), but it’s also on the German Fairy Tale Road, the German Framework Road, and the E6 European Walking Way.

Hann. Münden is also known as the “Three River City” with more than 700 framework houes in its Altstadt (Old Town). And its St. Blasius Church (14th/15th century) is the final resting place of a Duke Eric I of Brunswick. Oh forget the duke, Hann. Münden has botanical gardens, an Urban History Museum, and a castle. The Schloss was actually built by that duke laying in the church — so maybe we can’t forget about him, after all. ;-)

Next around is Bad Hersfeld, a historical city that has more than 200 buildings protected as historic. Places like the monastery ruins, which just so happen to be the largest Romanesque church (in ruins) in Europe. It’s Town Hall is why you’re on this route, though it was originally Gothic in design.

So many visitors to Bad Hersfeld come for the Lullusfest, the oldest Folk Festival in Germany, which is held on/around October 16th in the town’s Pedestrian Zone (any other time of year there are little shops & cafes to catch your attention).

Wolfhagen is where the Weser Renaissance Route meets up with the Framework Road (again). Which means that there are loads of timber framed houses for you to see, including those in the Weser Renaissance style (otherwise Wolfhagen wouldn’t be on this route).

Oh, there’s also a 13th century Evangelical Gothic Church, it’s 14th century Hospital Chapel, Castle Wolfhagen, and its Old Brewery; which dates back to 1491, using a beer recipe from 1799 today.

Welcome to Höxter with its medieval Town Hall, its half-timbered houses, and a monastery nearby with a Carolingian crypt. There’s also plenty to do in terms of sports with rowing, sky diving, hiking, and water sports. Ouch, I think I over did it here in Höxter…

The city of Paderborn is your next town on the Weser Renaissance Route (and its Town Hall is the reason). There are also twelve museums in this city, one’s in the Imperial Palace; another is dedicated to computers.

The Warsteiner Brewery is here; and you’ll also find fresh water springs (large parks & even a forest), the Paderborn Cathedral (where St. Liborius is buried), and all summer long there are celebrations at the castle. Yeah, life is nice here in Paderborn, isn’t it?

When you arrive in Detmold it’ll be hard to choose what to do first. Do you go meander around the Teutoburg Forest, or do you see the Westphalian Outdoor Museum (with over 100 historic buildings)? Choices. Choices.

Well, whatever you choose to do first it doesn’t matter as long as you throw in a visit to the 16th century Church of the Redeemer, the 18th century Palace, and the Altstadt with lots of framework houses along the Marktplatz. Oh, the German-Russian Cultural History Museum is a good stop, too.

You also have a choice in what to eat in Detmold. Liver Sausage or a Potato Pie concoction made with flour, milk, raisins, and eggs. Yummy isn’t the word and both are famous for being a regional dish.

Then there are choices for entertainment. The Andrew Fair is held annually in the Pedestrian Zone, and it always seems like there’s a Jazz Night going on. However, it’s only every two years that the Street Theater Festival is held at Pentecost (about 50 days AFTER Easter).

Right in the middle of the Teutoburg Forest (where the North & South part of the forest meet) is Bielefeld. There’s an Art Museum, an oberservation tower (imagine the view of the forest from this vantage point), and two 13th century churches.

If you visit New York City, there are two pieces from Bielefeld’s Marienkirche in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I know, if they’re in NYC you can’t see them here, but I like passing along little pieces of trivia. ;-)

Lemgo is the quintessential Renaissance town. While it might have moorlands, half-timbered buildings, and a historic synagogue; it’s more known for Schloss Brake that acts as a Renaissance Museum. Its Hexenbürgermeisterhaus (don’t we love long names?) is also built in the Weser Renaissance style and houses a museum about the town’s witch hunting days.

What can I say about our next (spa) town of Bad Salzuflen? Everything good, actually. Sure there are salt springs and thermal baths to soak away your aches & pains (which all of us over the age of 35 can appreciate), but I like listening to the Nordwestdeutsche Philharmonic play, too.

Bad Salzuflen’s pedestrian zone is pretty awesome; and is dotted with many framework houes. Don’t forget to take lots of pictures of the Katzenturm (Cat Tower), the 18th century Castle Stietencron, it’s Weser Renaissance style Rathaus, and St. Kilian’s Church that’s been the center of life in this “Bad” town for more than 1200 years.

1200 years is about how old the next town of Minden is, a town with lots of Weser Renaissance buildings. There’s an entire set of museums housed within these type of buildings in its Altstadt, including a Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum). Even Minden’s Schloss Haddenhausen is built in the Weser architecture, too.

Crossing back into Lower Saxony, Rinteln offers its visitors more timber-framed houses along its Marktplatz, an Industrial Museum, and a Monastery Church. On Ostertorstrasse there’s a Jewish cemetery; and the 12th century Castle Schaumburg gets its Middle Ages going on at its medieval fair every September.

But, if you rather head out to an amusement park, Rinteln can accommodate: Erlebniswelt steinzeichen. Wow, Old World charm and New World recreation all rolled up in one small town. GREAT!

How many of you out there are old enough to remember the 1988 movie The Adventures of Baron Münchhausen? The good baron was more than just a comedic character (played by John Neville) in some Hollywood feature film.

He was a real life guy of the 18th century; and in the town of Hessisch Oldendorf the Münchhausen Court is built in the Weser Renaissance style. Which is why I mentioned his name AND why the town is on the Weser Renaissance Route in the first place.

This part of Lower Saxony is within the grand Weserbergland, which has some caves to explore. If you’d rather be out in the daylight then visit its 14th century St. Marien Church, the Jewish Memorial at the Jewish cemetery, and look around some of its half-timbered houses.

Because I’m a big lover of trivia, I like to play the “six degrees of separation” game. So, the question is: how do you get from Johann Sebastian Bach to Italy’s Leonardo Da Vinci?

Are you thinking about it? Stumped? OK, I’ll tell you. The answer is Bückeburg. And yes, I’m serious.

In the town of Bückeburg Johann Sebastian Bach’s son worked here; and in the town’s Hubschraubermuseum (Helicopter Museum) are drawings of Da Vinci’s “flying machine.” See, I wasn’t fooling around.

Also in Bückeburg is a 700 year old palace, that’s now open to the publc. Good thing because it’s filled with precious artwork and an awesome library. There’s also one of the oldest Lutheran churches in Lower Saxony.

Now it’s time to visit the old mining town of Stadthagen. The entire Marktplatz (with many a timber framed house) is a pedestrian zone, so there’s no worrying about traffic while you drink your Schaumburger beer and wine. This is also where you’ll find a Weser Renaissance Town Hall and a Local History Museum.

Stadthagen has some grand churches to see. The St. Martini Church is not only a still functioning church, but also the final resting place of area Counts. You also have an Abbey Church to see and the Chapel of St. John was built in 1312.

You might only want to see Schloss Stadthagen from the outside. Why? Isn’t it a beautiful 16th century castle? Yes, but inside it’s a modern day tax office; and no one actually LIKES to pay taxes. ;-)

Our next town is Nienburg (Weser). While the town’s landmark is its St. Martin Church the reason you’re here on this scenic route is its Town Hall.

Look around carefully, you’ll find lots of sculpture art throughout the town; and an Asparagus Museum (hence why it’s also on the Lower Saxon Asparagus Route). There must be something about this little respected veggie even though it was once known as the “King’s Vegetable.”

Nienburg has a stunning Monastic Church and a Jewish cemetery that was used for more than 250 years (1694–1950). You can’t leave before you see the Globe Faslem House, though, built in a Classicist style with charming gardens, or shop at the town’s Spring Market.

Oh, Bremen. How I love, thee. Let me count the ways. Oh, I’m in Germany, I guess I should be paraphrasing a German writer instead of an English one. But, since I’m writing this in English it’s all good and hats off to Elizabeth Barrett Browning!

Bremen is a Roland town (his statue dates to 1404) and the opulent facade of its Rathaus is why you’re here. It is, right? It’s not just the Beck’s Brewery, right? OK, maybe it’s a little mix of both.

You’ll find Bremen to be a town of little crooked lanes with framework houses and an 11th century church (the Liebfrauenkirche). It’s also a modern town with a Science Center, a Techno (that loud, pumping, beat music) Parade, and a two-week Freimarkt (in October) that’s been taking place since 1036 (yup, that’s almost 1,000 years! — see, we Germans love tradition).

I’m hard-pressed to say which town I love more Bremen or Celle, which is where you’re headed to next. Celle is the gateway to the Lüneburg Heath. It’s also a place on the Framework Road with 400 half-timbered buildings — its Hoppener Haus is one of the most famous in town (and one of the prettiest).

There are French Gardens to see, a Cathedral Church; and Celle has a Christmas Market every year in the Old Town Center. Celle also lies quite close to the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp, which can be visited by anyone interested in 20th century German history.

You’re just about come to the end of the Weser Renaissance Route, only two more towns left; and Gifhorn is a proud one of ’em. This town has seen its fair share of hardship, with fires burning the town in 1529, 1669, 1725, 1876, and 1891. Each time Gifhorn has rebuilt itself in a better, grander fashion. Like in the Weser Renaissance style — as in the case of Schloss Gifhorn and the Altes Rathaus.

Gifhorn’s other sights include the Internationale Wind- und Wassermühlen-Museum (International Wind & Watermill Museum), a Cultural Institute (lots of art!), and a few artifical lakes for swimming, fishing, and anything else you can do in & around water.

Welcome to Einbeck, your last stop on the Weser Renaissance Route! Meeting up again with the Framework Road, it has its own 600 year old brewery. Amongst the half-timbered houses, you’ll find a pedestrian zone and a tourist information center (of course).

Einbeck might be a Weser Renaissance town, but it’s also a place that changed the practice of medicine forever. A pharmacist by the name of Frederich Serturner discovered the drug morphine here back in the early 19th century. For those of us who’ve had surgery, we salute you. :-)

We’ve traveled so far together on this route of the Weser Renaissance; and you’ve made an excellent traveling companion. Together we’ve seen the very best of 16th/17th century architecture, castles, and have gone from the medieval to modern day.

I wonder where we can travel off together next? Since we’re in the area of Lower Saxony, how ’bout the Lower Saxon Mills Route?

Hinte — A World Record Holder According To Guinness

October 25th, 2011

Located just one town over from the North Sea (and 6km from Emden and 20km from Norden) in the East Frisian part of Lower Saxony is the town of Hinte.

I’ll be honest, it can get quite cold here. So, showing up in January (where the average temp is around 1°C/34°F) probably isn’t a good idea. Summer is quite comfortable though (just over 16°C/61°F in July and August), and a great time to see this Guinness Book of World Records Holder town.

So, what’s Hinte’s claim to fame anyway?

The Leaning Church in the villge of Suurhusen (one of Hinte’s eight villages). It has been proven that this 13th century church tower leans more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy, making it the most crooked building in the world.

For real though, it looks like it’s going to fall right over. And they’ll be more than happy to show you the interior — so long as you call ahead and make an appointment.

Another one of the town’s churches is the Hinte Church, built in the 13th century (it’s bell tower is all that remains from that time period). Its doors are open to visitors from 10am–6pm everyday from April to September, otherwise call ahead.

Call beforehand if you want to see the Gothic frescoes (not discovered until the mid-20th century) at the 15th century Church Westerhausen. The really cool thing about this church is its 350-year old organ that still plays. Amazing.

I’m sorry to say that you can’t see the inside of Burg Hinta (a castle built by a Frisan Chieftan in 1438) as it’s privately owned. The Herrenhaus Loppersum is also privately owned; built by a Major General in 1859. There is a plaque outside to commemorate being visited by Hanover’s George V, who came here on August 24, 1861.

Hey, at least someone will let you in at the Landarbeiterhaus or Farm Worker’s House in Suurhsen, a building from 1768 that’s been restored to its oringal layout. It’s open Sundays from April to September, and where you can see how regular folks lived around the turn of the last century.

A locally guided tour (they’re free!) is a great way to see the best of Hinte, which will also include a stop at the Gallery Dutch Windmill, built in 1869. There’s a tea room right next door, which is a nice place to wind down your stay at this record holding town.

Havelberg — The Grandest Cathedral On The Romanesque Route

October 25th, 2011

On a chilly autumn day a small crowd stood around the Havelberg Cathedral taking a guided tour of this magnificent Romanesque building in the town of Havelberg.

All I can say is, what a way to start off the day.

The Havelberger Dom is one of the biggest attractions in town, built almost nine hundred years ago in 1170. From the plain front you’d never guess what wonders you’d find on the inside with everything from a tall vaulted ceiling to the minute details that decorate the walls, the pulpit, the altar, and the baptismal font.

It is one of the most beautiful churches I have seen in years. And that’s saying a lot considering Germany has some pretty gorgeous churches all over the country. That’s perhaps why the cathedral has put Havelberg on the Romanesque Route, a scenic route of the country’s best Romanesque architecture.

It was hard to tear myself away from the Dom, but the cathedral isn’t the only place to see here. There’s a Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) housed within the church, which was built on the site of a medieval monastery.

The Prignitz-Museum (as it’s called) is more than just exhibits, there are often concerts, tours, and lectures going on in the church complex — and it still retains a real family-friendly atmosphere with special children’s tours.

Another religious place is the Beguinenhaus, a place where I learned something new. Beguines were women (men were called Begarden) who lived in a religious type community like a monastery, but were “lay people.” That means they didn’t take any kind of religious orders (like monks, priests, and nuns) but lived devotional, celibate lives — and were free to leave to get married or carry on secular lives should they so choose.

What makes the Beguines even more interesting (other than these “religious” communities found all over Europe), they were persecuted by the Church, and they helped with the modern day women’s movement (as women wielded great power in their communities).

Oh, I think I just realized why the Beguines were persecuted…

Inasmuch as Havelberg embraces its past, you’ll love its present. Every year on the first weekend of September there’s a huge Pferdemarkt (Horse Market) that brings a hundred-thousand visitors. It’s a huge event that coincides with a flea market and fair.

With that many people around I’m sure the walking paths and cycle trails will be a much quieter venture. Heck, I think a rock concert would be quieter. ;-)

Neuhofen — Eating Good On A Wednesday Morning

October 25th, 2011

What’s remarkable about small German towns is that even where there isn’t a whole lot to do, you’ll most certainly eat good. And the town of Neuhofen in the Palatinate is no exception.

Every week on Wednesday mornings (from 8am to 1pm) there’s a Weekly Market where you can buy delicious baked goods, fresh fruits & veggies, cheese, and sausage to name a few.

These markets might not sound like much, but this isn’t like buying your produce in some big-chain, faceless, nameless supermarket. It’s a whole cultural exchange thing going on.

I so totally understand why local artist Otto Ditscher felt a speical affinity for the place. One of his pieces is found right outside the Rathaus (that used to be an old bank), called the Vegetative au Beton. To see more of his work, you’ll have to go to the Otto Ditscher Gallery.

Otto’s work came from the 20th century (he was born here in 1903), so to see what Neuhofen looked like a few centuries back you’ll probably want to see all the half-timbered houses that are still around or the old Jewish cemetery.

I’m sorry to say that you won’t find a medieval church here. The Evangelical Church is of a later time period, although the original one was built in 1318. And the Catholic Church looks quite modern.

Every year on the Sunday after St. Michael Day (September 29th) there’s a big church Fete, and of course you know there’ll be all sorts of Advent concerts and celebrations. That’s in addition to the Christmas Market.

I like that Neuhofen (founded by medieval Cistercians) likes to have a good time. The Rehbachfest is every July, a Fountain Festival in September, a Fischerfest (Fisherman’s Festival) in June, and every August is the Feuerwehrfest (Fire Department Festival).

So, if you find yourself in Ludwigshafen (only 7km away) or in Speyer (two towns over) you might want to take a quick jaunt over to Neuhofen to spend a Wednesday morning. Or, any morning for that matter.

European Route Of Historic Theaters — Germany’s Gift To Arts

October 25th, 2011

Ask anyone about an opera, and chances are German isn’t going to be anyone’s first guess. Everyone will just shout out some Italian composer’s name I think. Ask someone to name a famous composer, and you bet your sweet cheeks that the names Mozart, Bach, Beethoven, and Wagner would be bursting from someone’s lips.

There’s no denying the German contribution to the arts has been an extraordinary road — even if you didn’t know that Mozart and Wagner also wrote operas.

So, in conjunction with other theatrical loving countries (Great Britain, the Netherlands, Belgium, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Italy) — here’s the very (absolute very) best of Germany’s theaters on the European Route of Historic Theaters, or Europastrasse Historische Theater as it’s called in German.

Start of the European Route Of Historic Theaters (in Germany)

The German portion of the route has twelve stops. And it all starts at the Putbus Theater in Putbus on the island of Rügen. The restored theater, built in 1821, now has more than 300 performances throughout the year (that’s almost one every day), and the building itself is a grand example of what’s called North German Classicism.

Wow, who new the island of Rügen was hiding such a gem?

Traveling southward to Neubrandenburg, is the restored Playhouse. It wasn’t restored because of World War II, it somehow managed to survive the war unscathed — and it’s the oldest theater in the area.

Potsdam‘s contribution to the Route of Historic Theaters is the Theater in the New Palace in the Sanssouci. This is the theater that Prussian King Frederick the Great built, in a Rococo style seating over 220 people for all sorts of operas, ballets, and plays.

Frederick the Great might have had his hand in Potsdam, but it was Goethe (the one, the only, Johann Wolfgang Goethe) that designed the Goethe Theater in Bad Lauchstädt. Works by Schiller, Goethe himself, and Handel have been played here, but it was an opera by Mozart that was given the special honor of being the first thing performed here. Every May to October the theater is still putting on outstanding performances.

Originally not a public theater, the Kochberg Palace Theater (a.k.a. Liebhabertheater) in Großkochberg (nowadays part of Uhlstädt-Kirchhasel) was on a private estate. The private country house of a very special lady friend of Goethe, BTW. Today you’re able to entertain yourself at one of the special occasion concerts at this 75-seat theater every year.

Opulent is an understatment once you’ve seen the theater at the Friedenstein Palace in Gotha. The palace itself is a piece of history, being the oldest Baroque palace in Germany and all. So, you can just imagine the magnificent theater tucked away in this 17th century palace.

Not only is the venue historic, but this is where theater troupes first gained some “respect,” but getting a regular paycheck, specified days off, and even a pension. Not to mention a full-time director to make it all come together.

It’s a treasure trove of theatrics at the Theater Museum in Meiningen. Here you’ll see almost 300 handpainted stage sets (it’s not like they could’ve been mass produced back in the 18th & 19th centuries, could they?) including all sorts of posters and costumes from the era.

Oh, what can I say about Bayreuth, our next stop on the European Route Of Historic Theaters? We know you can wait the better part of a decade for tickets to the annual Bayreuth Festival every summer with all sorts of works by Wagner. But, the Margravial Opera House is the reason you’re here now. You’ll love its blend of French Classicism and Italian Baroque — so long as they’re playing German operas. ;-)

The Palace Theater in Ludwigsburg was built in 1758 and in use until the 1850s. It went unused as a theater venue for almost a century; and because of it they’ve found a huge cache of 18th century set decorations — the only surviving ones anyone knows about.

If you got some, let someone know, OK?

Schwetzingen‘s got a special place in my heart — and not only because of its location on the delicious Baden Asparagus Route, but because of its outstanding Rococo theater that’s played Mozart, Bach, and even Voltaire. A fine venue for September’s Mozart Weeks and the Schwetzingen Festival in May.

On July 8, 1781 the Playhouse Wilhelmsbad opened in Hanau. Thanks, Prince Wilhelm… your dedication to the arts is still felt more than 200 years later.

We’re at the end of the German portion of the European Route Of Historic Theaters now that we’ve arrived in Koblenz. The Municipal Theater opened its doors on November 23, 1787 to the works of Mozart. Two centuries-plus later, the theater is still performing his works, as well as operas, ballets, and other kinds of performances.

If you’ll excuse me, I have this sudden urge to listen to Don Giovanni. So what if it’s sung in Italian — the music is all German, Baby, since it was written by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. ;-)

European Route Of Historic Theaters Web Site

In case you’d like to know more, here’s the Web site dedicated to the entire European Route Of Historic Theaters.

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