Oppenheim — Fantastic Above And Below Ground

October 23rd, 2011

Oppenheim in Rhenish Hesse is just as remarkable underground as it is above ground. Ahh, did I get your attention? What could I possibly mean by underground?

What’s under there? The gateway to Hades? An underground Grotto?

No. It’s a labyrinth of tunnels and stairways that somehow manage to link many of the town’s homes to each other. What’s really remarkable about the Oppenheimer Kellerlabyrinth (as its called) is that this underground system stretches for some 40km, while the town itself is less than 8 square kilometers.

You’re more than welcome to explore part of it, but only 650 meters of this extensive underground system is open for the public. In fact, the entire thing hasn’t even been excavated. That’s pretty nifty, I’d say. Don’t you think?

For those not willing to delve into the deep (ha-ha), you might prefer the ruins of Castle Landskron. This poor castle has been sacked and destroyed more times than I could keep count, although I do admire the former owners’ tenacity to rebuild. It was originally built around the year 1100, destroyed in 1257 and 1275, then again in 1621, and yet again in 1689 (this time by the French).

Burg Landskrone might be in ruins, but it makes one of the best venues for the annual Oppenheimer Theater Festival that runs from August to October. It’s also where the yearly Medieval Spectacle takes place in early May.

These two festivals aren’t the only ones. Oppenheim holds the Easter Artists’ Market every year two weeks before Easter starts, then in the middle of May is the Rheinradeln (Rhine Bike Ride) that ends here from its start in Worms.

On the second weekend of August there’s the Oppenheim Wine Festival; fitting since Oppenheim is a Wine Town. I did say it was remarkable above ground, didn’t I? ;-)

I wouldn’t miss seeing the Church of St. Catherine’s either. Oh, wait, you won’t since this gorgeous Gothic church is also the venue for plays and other cultural type events. It’s well known for its Rose Window — a stunning flowered window of stained glass.

This even furthers my case about saying Oppenheim is fantastic above and below ground. And I think you’ll agree. :-)

Otterndorf — Mudflat Hiking And Camping On The North Sea

October 23rd, 2011

Along the coast of the North Sea, neighboring Cuxhaven to the east is Otterndorf. It’s harder to think of what I’d rather do here first, spend it doing all kinds of outdoorsy stuff. Or, checking out some of the town’s old buildings and museums.

I keep having this problem. Flip a coin. Throw darts at the map. Pick a spot out of a hat. I’m running out of ideas. ;-)

Well, if I wanted to go mudflat hiking I had to do it according to the tides. You will too, since you got to wait for the tide to go out so you can walk straight out over the mudflats.

If you’re not familiar with how the tide table works, I really (really) suggest you get yourself a guide. Good thing Otterndorf offers frequent guided walks over the mudflats.

With that out of the way, I had all the time in the world for everything else. Too bad it wasn’t on the 1st weekend of August when the annual Altstadtfest (Old Town Festival) is held. Over the course of the weekend you’ll have lots of chances to shop at its Flohmarkt (Flea Market), hear local music, and eat.

Eating and drinking is also on the agenda during the annual Speckenfest (Bacon Festival), or even just at the Weekly Market held on Friday mornings from 7:30am–12:30pm.

A couple of calories never killed anyone — besides, you’ll have plenty of chances to burn it off while you’re walking around to the Doll House Museum, the Art Museum, the St. Severi Church, or to see what remains of the SS Kaffraria (which sunk off the coast in 1891 and moved onto dry land in the 1980s after years of pillaging).

Plus, with all the canoeing, kayaking, tennis and miniature golf playing — you’ll work up quite an appetite. So eat! ;-)

Three times a year Otterndorf has a nightly tour (on the 13th of the June, July, and August), which is another cool way of sightseeing around. But, I think seeing the Yellow Baroque House, the Kranichhaus (Crane House, built 1735), the 17th century brick castle Gatehouse, and the 18th century Hadler House (it’s now a museum) during the day is really nice too.

Oh, looks like the tide’s going out again — gotta get to the mudflats again!

Ortenburg — Knight Games And Medieval Markets In Lower Bavaria

October 23rd, 2011

Two towns over from the Austrian border is Ortenburg. No ordinary place, mind you, but a town that is made up of over fifty villages. Call ’em shires or hamlets, if you will? No, Lower Bavaria just simply doesn’t do simple. ;-)

Even its royal residents from the past didn’t do simple. One Imperial Count (Frederick Casimir) was a well-known artist. Easy to understand once you’ve seen this part of the country. Another Duke was solely responsible for bringing the Protestant Reformation to Ortenburg.

These counts and dukes lived in Schloss Ortenburg. The new one, not the old one. Confused? Don’t be ’cause it’s simple enough to explain. The original Ortenburg Castle was built in 1120, and destroyed in 1504 in the Landshut War of Succession.

A new one was built (albeit in the Renaissance style this time, not medieval), with the Counts of Ortenburg living here until 1805. Yes, that’s just about 700 years of one family ruling over these lands (there’s a museum here to explain a lot of it).

One thing they did over at the castle was travel by private access to Ortenburg’s Market Church, which used to be just a simple chapel when it was built in 1381. Sometime in the 16th century it was rebuilt much bigger, making it an official “church.”

While the Market Church is now Evangelical, the St. Lawrence Church (known as St. Laurentius here) is still a Catholic Parish from when it was built in 1241. Inside you’ll find a number of epitaphs (that might seem a bit morbid) that are extraordinarly beautiful.

Back to the castle for minute. While holding all sorts of events and concerts throughout the year, it is really known for its Ritterspiele and Medieval Markets held every two years. You’ll find lots of people dressed in period clothing, and holding jousting and other tournaments.

Again, nothing simple here, is there? ;-)

And at least you don’t have to wait every two years for the Ortenburger Festival, held in the early part of every August.

While Ortenburg and Lower Bavaria might not be simple, know this — it’s just simply fun to be here.

Sehmatal — With The Steam Railway Through The Ore Mountains

October 23rd, 2011

Oh, hello, Czech Republic. I didn’t know I could see you from the town of Sehmatal in Saxony. I also didn’t know I would see that much snow.

Well, it is June after all.

Oh, I’m playing around. It doesn’t snow in Sehmatal in June, it just feels like it.

Situated in the Ore Mountains, this isn’t a tropical destination. No wonder they’ve got an entire museum dedicated to soup. Nothing keeps you warmer on a cold day than that, does it? Yeah, that’s why they even host the Olympiade im Suppenkochen (Soup Cooking Olympics).

The mountainous terrain is also a great place for the Cranzahl Christmas. Cranzahl, BTW, is one of Sehmatal’s three villages. Anyway, the Cranzahl Christmas is a replica of a winter wonderland made with life-sized models. This is in addition to Sehmatal’s large Christmas Market (in the village of Neudorf) in late November, and lots of Christmas caroling.

Who cares if it’s cold. Listen, I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again… Christmas isn’t really Christmas if you’ve got lights hanging off palm trees. ;-)

But, this is why there’s chocolate and vanilla — not everyone enjoys the cold and snow. So, for you, wait until the late Spring straight through early Fall to enjoy Sehmatal’s huge network of biking and hiking trails, or to ride on the Fichtelbergbahn. It’s a historic steam railway line that becomes the Easter Bunny Express around, well, Easter; and it still runs to Oberwiesenthal every single day like clockwork.

One of the more popular ways to experience the Fichtelbergbahn is on its Moonlight Tours, operating on special evenings during the summer and autumn. And one of the more popular sites is the Demonstration Workshop where you can see how handmade incense is made.

Ah, the smell is fantastic.

Other sightseeing around town would be to visit the Church of Ascension (built 1556) in Cranzahl, the Lutheran Church in Neudorf (built 1599), and the Pauluskirche in Sehma (the last of the Sehmatal’s villages) that was built in 1673, and the replica of Cheops’ Pyramid.

Don’t look at me like that, it was the bright idea of a local guy after visiting Egypt. Maybe after you’ve visited Sehmatal, you’ll go home and build something you’ve seen here. It could happen, you know… ;-)

Schutterwald — Colorful Costumes On The Way Of St. James

October 23rd, 2011

It’s my last town of the week, and I can’t much think of a prettier place to do it than in the town of Schutterwald in the Ortenau, the Upper Rhine Valley, and very close to the Black Forest.

All righty, maybe the fact that Schutterwald is a wine town could have something to do with it.

Please, being this close to France (only one town over, BTW), I have to extoll the virtues of German wine, which are mainly the Riesling variety in this part of, or near, the Black Forest.

That brings me to reason number two of why I’m glad this is my last virtual stop. Steeped in folklore, legend, and scary creatures (of the mytholoical variety, not in reality) the Black Forest is a haven for those who appreciate the natural beauty of the world. Find a hiking trail or bike path to dream the day away.

You could actually dream away a few days since one-third of Schutterwald is totally forested. ;-)

There’s no rest for the weary if you’ve come to Schutterwald on the Kinzigtäler Jakobusweg, a section of the Way Of St. James that passes numerous sights on its way through the Kinzig Valley from Loßburg to Schutterwald to Straßburg, France.

Sit. Have a glass of wine. Then you’ll be all refreshed when you arrive back at St. James Church.

If you stay long enough you might notice something different about the traditional dress of the town’s residents. While Bavaria might have the dirndl and lederhosen, Schutterwalders (the ladies, anyway) have a more colorful scheme going on, while the men’s attire is black & red.

Most noticable is the scarf-like item worn cris-cross over the chest (all decked out in a multitude of colors) and the many folds of the skirt. They’re often handed down from mothers to daughters, made of the finest silk or wool.

Tradition is big here, which is why you’ll always find the Dorffest (Village Festival) held every year at the end of June.

No festival? How about visiting the ruins of Burg Mörburg? I should say where the Mörburg once was, as nothing of this castle (built in 1129) stands after it was destroyed during the dreaded Thirty Years’ War.

I refuse to end my week thinking about destructive wars in German history, so I’ll end it over at the Freibad am See (the lake/outdoor pool in the north of town) — and slash the rest of my time away.

German Limes Road — Deutsche Limes-Strasse

October 23rd, 2011

It’s hard to imagine coming to Germany and speaking Latin. Latin? Really? Well, OK, maybe not through the entire country, only a small portion of it — which would be along the German scenic route of the German Limes Road, or Deutsche Limes-Strasse.

Limes means path and/or boundary in Latin; and it’s a very fitting name since this Roman Road follows what was once the border of the Roman Empire.

This monster route winds its way for 550km/342mi on its driving route (and 818km/508mi on the Limes Cycle Route) through 83 German towns and villages, all in the footsteps of the infamous Roman Legion.

Honestly, not all of the towns have remainders of Roman life, but you’ll get a serious look into what it took to defend it with guard towers, watchtowers, and Roman forts along the way. In some towns, there are museums with exhibits totally (or partially) filled with Roman artifacts.

Don’t worry, so many of these towns offer more than just Roman history — there’s medieval and modern day history, too!

The choice is yours whether you want to follow the German Limes Road on your own or take a guided tour (with certified guides) through all seven sections, taking you through Rhineland-Palatinate, Hesse, Baden-Württemberg, and Bavaria — from Bad Hönningen on the Rhine to Regensburg on the Danube.

German Limes Road — Section 1

The German Limes Road starts in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bad Hönningen, which was founded in 1019, and lost almost all of its houses (except for twelve) in 1632 during the Thirty Year’s War. The Arenfels Castle, built in 1258, is its highlight and visible atop a hill from near and far. Take a snapshot of the Hohes Haus (High House), built in 1438, that houses a museum nowadays.

The Limes-Straße takes us further to Rheinbrohl and its Roman castle dating back to around 180 A.D., along with an old stone watchtower. Yes, that would be more than 1800 years ago! Rheinbrohl’s history doesn’t end there, there are also many fairytale framework houses that everyone just loves so much.

The Romans left Neuwied way back in the 5th century and thankfully for us, they left behind many artifacts which are found at the Archaeological Museum. Don’t worry about the kids feeling left out, Neuwied has a modern day zoo and Pirate Adventure Park.

Bendorf and its district of Sayn doesn’t have any Roman ruins left, but it does have the Iron Museum at Sayn Castle and the biggest Christmas Festival in the region. Walk a round a bit and maybe you’ll understand why poet/author Goethe was so inspired when he lived here.

Hillscheid is your next town on the Roman border and near to the Nature Park Nassau. Not only will you find the walls of what was once a castellet and a reconstructed tower; Celtic artifacts were found here, too.

The only reminder of the Roman world in cute lil’ Arzbach is the Castellet Arzbach and a reconstructed watchtower. Bad Ems, your next town, has a good deal more to see, so don’t dawdle in Arzbach too long! ;-)

Bad Ems not only has a Roman castellet (called the Kastell Ems), but a Roman tower, a Roman brick factory, and also a casino & spa and a wonderful ornate Baroque Castle.

The health resort town of Nassau is next, sitting within the Nature Park of the same name with exhibitions on Roman military life. Afterwards come sit at an outdoor cafe in town OR hike, bike, or canoe around the park. Ah, just do it all and enjoy yourself.

The little village of Pohl, also within the Nassau Nature Park, has only the remains of a reconstructed Roman Fort. But, the old grave hills show that people have lived here a lot longer than the Romans.

You’re at the end of the first section when you come see one of the best reconstructed old forts in Nastätten; and where the Limes Road meets the Limes Hiking Trail in the Taunus Mountains.

German Limes Road — Section 2

From the looks of just this first section alone, the Limes-Straße is off to a really great start!

Section Two starts in the town of Heidenrod in the Rhine-Taunus Nature Park, where you can enjoy many walking paths and cycling trails.

Bad Schwalbach is your average German spa town. OK, no German spa town should ever be considered average, so let me strike that! All you need to know is mineral springs and Nordic Walking trails. Sounds great, yes?

Taunusstein is the next town on this part of the German Limes Road. There’s a fantastic museum in the Wehrener Schloss looking at mid-20th century German life, a far cry from the days of the Romans! You’ll also find a medieval Jewish Cemetery (although no grave stones from the time exist any longer, only dating back to the 1650’s).

Medieval sites, like the Hexenturm (Witches Tower) are waiting for you in Idstein, as well. Plus, there are many half-timbered houses and a fantastic Baroque chuch, too.

Glashütten is your next town with remains of a Roman tower and castellet. The town is also famous for cross-country skiing, bicycling, and mountain biking.

From the Kleiner Feldberg (east of Glashütten) to Kastell Saalburg you’ll find the Roman ruins of the Feldberg Fort, a stone Roman watchtower. Once you arrive at the Saalburg visit the Roman Archaeological park, which is a museum and a research facility. Here you can see the “barracks,” where the legionaires (regular Roman soldiers) lived, as well as exhibits on their clothing.

In Bad Homburg the Romans were long gone when the famous Homburg hat first became fashionable; and the King of Siam, King Edward VII, Czar Nicolas II, and Wilhelm II used to come gamble at the town’s casino.

Over in Wehrheim you’ve got the Stadttor Museum, housed in the town’s original “City Gate.” Then there are the two 18th century churches (1 Catholic, the other Protestant), and a Jewish Cemetery used from 1864 to 1938.

Ober-Mörlen has a wonderful example of a Renaissance Castle, built in 1589; and a Roman watchtower. Wow, everytime you turn around there’s another watchtower to see!

Butzbach was once home to a 1st century AD Roman garrison (83 AD to be exact!). Many centuries later the Ladgrafen Castle was built — and now everyone likes to come here for the annual Old Town Festival in early September.

Lich does have a small Roman Castellet. However, the Roman ruins are sometimes overshadowed by the town’s many framework houses, the Schloss Lich, Klosterruine Arnsburg, and the Licher Brewery (that’s been making beer here for about 150 years). Whatever you’ve come to see here, you’ll just love it!

Hungen is your last town on Section Two. It’s where you’ll see a 2000 year old castellet, Bronze Age grave hills, an 800 year old church, and enjoy concerts & cabaret performances at the castle. What a perfect way to end this section of the German Limes Road!

German Limes Road — Section 3

Section Three starts off with the town of Echzell, once a Roman Fort town. In town you’ll find a recently discovered Jupitersäule (Jupiter Column), a 14th century church, and its Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) is housed in the region’s oldest pharmacy. Nice!

Florstadt, another Roman fort town, meets up with the Limes Cycle Route in this gorgeous part of Hesse. Then it’s on to Altenstadt with its Abbey Monastery and medieval Hexenturm.

When you get to Limeshain take your time in the Archaeology & Natural History Museum and the many hiking trails — keep a look out for the prehistoric grave hills that were found here!

Hammersbach, where yet another Roman fort was built, now has a gorgeous 17th century Town Hall that everyone comes to see.

Over in Erlensee you’ll get the chance to see a wonderfully restored stone fort, as well as a 16th century water castle (oh, gotta love a castle with a moat!) and local history museum (only open on the 1st Sunday of the month).

Since this is the German Limes Road, you’d think the Romans would get top billing in the town of Hanau. Well, sorry, not this time! Hanau is where the German Fairy Tale Road starts — and where its Märchentheater (fairy tale theater) puts on performances every year from May to July!

Großkrotzenburg can boast a 6,000 year old history! Although the Romans were only here a mere drip in time compared to that, you’ll find many of their artifacts in the Local History Museum.

The German Framework Road meets up in Seligenstadt. Its Roman fort is gone, but the Benedictine Abbey and plenty of timber framed houses still stand proudly.

Stockstadt am Main can boast both an Abbey Museum and a local history museum with quite a number of Roman exhibits.

You won’t find a museum like that in Niedernberg, though — “only” the Cathedral Museum, a 15th century church, and some Roman monuments.

Obernburg am Main can say it has one, though! The last town of Section Three has a wonderful Roman Fort Museum, as well as a historical Old Town!

It’s totally amazing how the Romans made such a mark on the local landscape!

German Limes Road — Section 4

Section Four might be the smallest in terms of the number of towns to see, but it is one of the longest sections going on for about 165km — starting in Wörth am Main (in the Odenwald) where you can see a Roman Fortress, visit the Maritime Museum, and the town’s Gothic Church (always great for beautiful artwork).

Klingenberg am Main is a great Lower Franconian town filled with wineries, a super fabulous Wine Festival every year, its own castle (Castle Trennfurt), and a Roman Fort with an alter stone dating to 212 A.D. (this is why thousands of people every year follow this route)!

In this region of you’ll also want to see all the beautifully restored half-timbered houses and the Roman Museum in Miltenberg. At the end of the day, why not just camp out at one of Miltenberg’s campgrounds? It’ll be fun!

It’ll be hard to leave Lower Franconia, but try because your next stop is the pilgrimage city of Walldürn in northern Baden-Württemberg. Oh, sure, it has a small Roman castellet, but it also has a stunning pilgrimage church (and Pilgrimage Museum), a historical Rathaus (Town Hall), and an Elfenbeinmuseum (Ivory Museum).

Camping is also possible in the town of Buchen, which is right on the edge of the Odenwald. After roasting some marshmallows, come see all the framework buildings and the restored Roman tower.

Osterburken, yet another fort city — wait, is that all the Romans did was build forts & watchtowers (and take over other lands)? The answer to that question can be found in Osterburken’s Roman Museum.

The answer to that could also be found at the Outdoor Archaeology Museum and Palace Museum (with exhibits on the Roman life) in Jagsthausen. Keep a lookout for the remains of the old Roman border wall, wondering how the time went so quickly on the this part of the route!

German Limes Road — Section 5

Section Five is another route with only a few towns, although it does travel for more than 145km through Baden-Württemberg.

Follow the Roman Border Wall to Zweiflingen, which also has the graceful 18th century Schloss Friedrichsruhe, once an old hunting lodge.

Öhringen is one of those towns with a good number of Roman sites. There’s a museum with all sorts of Roman finds; check out the old fort and Roman Column. Personally I think there’s something truly remarkable about the Sts. Peter & Paul Church on the Marktplatz. Let me know if you feel the same. :-)

There really isn’t anything of Roman times that remains of the town of Pfedelbach, on the edge of the Mainhardt Forest. It does have a wine museum, which means the vino is quite important around these parts. After coming this far, you’ve earned a nice glass of Riesling!

OK, at this point you’ve seen just about a bazillion museums with Roman exhibits. So, when you get to Mainhardt go soak in the mineral water swimming pool, go hike a path, bike a trail, or just go fishing BEFORE you go see the town’s Roman Museum.

Großerlach is another town in the Mainhardt Forest where you’ll find rolling fields of green grass and tall trees, with a reconstructed Roman stone watchtower and guard post.

You’ll also find a watchtower & guard post in Murrhardt, along with a Jupiter Column. There’s also the Carl Schweizer Museum to visit, as well as a chance to just frolick like a school kid at the forest lake. Camp out in Murrhardt, pretending to be a Roman Centurion! OK, maybe not… ;-)

There are only three towns left of Section Five — time flies when you’re having fun!

Welzheim might have a tiny castellet, a Roman fort — but it also has many Roman artifacts at the Municipal Museum. For a look at more modern history, there’s the 18th century Rathaus, the artwork in the St. Gallus Church, and you can go star gazing at the observatory.

When you get to the Swabian-Franconian Forest in the town of Alfdorf, you meet up once again with the Limes Cycle Trail. After visiting the Church of St. Stephen, enjoy the fresh Swabian air at an outdoor cafe.

Save your energy, you’re going to need it once you get to Lorch (Württemberg), the last town of this section. Yes, you’ve probably heard of the Lorch Abbey and this is where it is! In addition to being home to one of the most famous Abbeys in Germany (built 1102), Lorch has the foundations of a Roman Gate AND a reconstructed wooden one.

You’ve really come pretty far in the footsteps of the Romans! Whether they were just your everyday soldier, or a Centurion (officer) these men traveled far and wide in the protection of their Caesar’s empire. Now, you’ve come from far & wide to see where these often misunderstood fellows traveled. There are only two more sections left — I hope you enjoy them!

German Limes Road — Section 6

Section Six has the most towns on the Limes-Strasse, starting in the super gorgeous town of Schwäbisch Gmünd. While it does have a medieval Town Center, it also has a Jewelry Museum and foundations have been found of Roman baths.

Böbingen an der Rems is a town that used to be an old Roman fort area. Look for the statue of Juno, then go see Böblingen’s Romanesque medieval church.

Next stop is Mögglingen, although no other Roman remains exist other than part of the Roman border wall and a guardtower.

Aalen has a bit more Roman ruins to see — so good thing it’s the next town on the German Limes Road! Every two years (even numbered years) there’s a huge Roman Festival — but, the Roman Museum, the Prehistoric, Museum, and the Roman excavations can be visited anytime.

You’ll find part of the Roman border wall in Hüttlingen. However, you’ll also find Burg Marienburg there, too. This castle has a bright red roof, towers, turrets — and it was built just about a thousand years ago in 1050!

After visiting the Roman fort baths and a reconstructed wooded watchtower in Rainau, go have a leisurely swim in the artificial lake. Sounds like fun!

If you follow the Roman border wall, your next stop is Ellwangen. If you’re not shopping or enjoying a beer at a cafe on the Marktplatz, come see the town’s lovely basilica chuch (that’s also right on the Marktplatz).

Hopefully you’ve planned your trip right and you’ve arrived in Stödtlen for the Leonhard Festival in August. The kids will love the horses; historians will appreciate the Roman guardtower.

Welcome back to Bavaria! :o)

In addition to beer, you can see Mönchsroth’s reconstructed Roman tower, it’s Church of Sts. Peter & Paul, and the town’s 18th century synagogue. That’s a lot of years of history all in one place!

While there isn’t all that much to see (and do) in Wilburgstetten, don’t skip through without seeing the restored Roman tower and the richly decorated Baroque Kreuzkapelle.

The same could be said for Weiltingen, but there is a museum with Roman exhibitions.

Wittelshofen (yes, another town starting with “W”) was the site of another Roman fort — but, now you’ll find more hiking and bicycling trails winding their way around town & countryside.

Are you tired yet? No? Good, because there’s still a good distance to disover!

You won’t have to spend too much time in Langfurth, just see its St. Marys Church and head towards Ehingen; and its Castle Dambach, its Roman walls and restored tower.

When you get to Wassertrüdingen, enjoy a good Bavarian beer — then go see the moated castle and its gorgeous City Church.

Besides being a mouthful, Unterschwaningen have found Prehistoric, Celtic, and Roman artifacts. Everyone just loves the Dennenlohe Castle Park and just about all of this 950-year old village.

Over in Arberg, you’ll find Celtic grave hills and a medieval Gate Tower (built 1531) and the Cemetery Church built in 1586. I know it’s not a lot, but it’s still a great stop nonetheless :-)

Gunzenhausen has a bit more to see with its Archaeology Museum, its 13th century defense wall (called a Stadtmauer), and a restored Roman tower & small fort.

Once you get to Pfofeld, don’t worrry too much about the historical aspect of town. After visiting the Romanesque St. Michael’s Church (with Gothic frescoes) you can swim, sail, and surf to your heart’s content (at either the Brombachsee or the Altmühlsee)! Better yet, stay the night and camp out!

You’re coming to the end of Section Six, only four more towns to go.

Theilenhofen was once to a Roman fort and Roman Baths; and Pleinfeld‘s hiking trails will take you past the Roman’s stone tower — leading off towards Ellingen’s Roman Fort that dates back to 182 A.D.

How Germany manages to save the best for last with Weißenburg! The Castle Biriciana is a fine example of a Roman fort and was home to a Roman cavalry unit. There’s also the Roman Baths (didn’t they just LOVE them!) Museum, AND a Roman Museum located at Martin Luther Platz 3 (it’s filled with quite a few Roman bronze statues).

Are you ready to begin the Seventh Section yet? Oh, good!

German Limes Road — Section 7

You start out Section Seven a bit on the slow side in the municipality of Burgsalach and its replica of a wooden guard tower. However, since this is Bavaria you’ll enjoy just sitting around an outdoor cafe, watching the world go by.

Our next stop is Titting, where there are almost as many churches as there are walking and bicycling paths. One of the most beautiful of Titting’s churchs is the Petersbuch Baroque Church.

In the mid-8th century St. Willibad built a church (in Eichstätt) over the site of a Roman fort, forever changing the local landscape. Now the only way to get a glimpse of the Roman world is at the Pre & Early History Museum & the Villa Rustica (Roman Estate). The cathedral in Eichstätt is totally gorgeous, too.

Oh, Walting… you’re my Bavarian dream town! Churches, chapels, castles, walking paths, and a reconstructed Roman Fort, all neatly wrapped up in one place.

I could probably say the same about Kipfenberg (which likes to party)! After a trip to see the town’s reconstructed wooden watchtower, the Burg Kipfenberg should be next — it’s a castle & a fortress, then to the mid-15th century St. Georg Chuch. Hopefully you’re here for the Limesfest (a Roman festival), the annual Folk Festival, or the Mountain Bike Marathon in September.

Altmannstein has two castles, one of which is in ruins. Along with a local history museum, there are a number of hiking & biking trails through its 14 villages — and two famous trees.

Since you’re almost to the end of the German Limes Road, enjoy it and Pförring as much as you can. There are some former Roman settlements, a Romanesque church, and more festivals than you can shake a stick at (like the Kinderfest, Volkfest, and Fischerfest).

Neustadt an der Donau and Bad Gögging are all rolled into one. Over at the Roman Bath Museum there are some Roman reliefs, perfect if you love art from the time period. Afterwards, a game of golf is just what the travel doctor ordered! ;-)

Oh my, you’ve done it — you’ve made it to Regensburg, the last stop of the German Limes Road! It’s thought that the oldest Roman brewery (in the Northern Alps) was right here in Regensburg. Maybe they’re right, since it’s the site of a Roman military camp from 179 A.D.

Round out your stay with a visit to the Roman Museum — and remember that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site! The Regensburg Cathedral is just heavenly (no pun intended) and the views of town from the medieval Stone Bridge make the best snapshots.

Two famous residents of Regensburg were Oskar Schindler and Pope Bendict XVI. Mr. Schindler moved here after the war and the pope was a professor at the University of Regensburg. OK, so the pope and Mr. Schindler aren’t Romans and this IS the Limes-Strasse — it’s just nice to hear a bit of more modern history. And you might never know when you have to answer a trivia question… ;-)

As the Roman Empire ended, so does the German Limes Road. As the Romans left, it left Germany open to be, well, German — and you’ll see how the culture shaped the many German towns throughout the route.

I just hope you liked following in the footsteps of the Romans as much as I have. :-)

German Limes Road Web Site

In case of need, here’s the official Web site of the German Limes Road.

Weissach im Tal — Obsessed With Time Beyond Its Borders

October 22nd, 2011

One thing’s for sure about the town of Weissach im Tal in Baden-Württemberg: you’ll always know what time it is.

It sounds pretty stereotypical, doesn’t it? Who hasn’t heard or made jokes about the Germans being, GASP, punctual?

OK. OK. The big sundial in town (calledso prettily decorated with zodiac symbols) doesn’t help to stop these stereotypical ideas. Neither does having a World Clock that displays not only the full and half-hour, but also the quarter hour; and shows the names of cities where the sun’s at its peak.

Go ahead, snicker, chuckle, crack a smile or joke all you want at this point. How funny is that, Germans so obsessed with time that they’ve taken to calculate the sun’s position someplace else in the world. ;-)

What isn’t a joke is how lovely Weissach im Tal is. It might be a modern town with all the 21st century conveniences, but it still manages to hold onto its Old World charm. I’d say all of its half-timbered houses could have something to do with it.

One timber-framed house is now Weissach’s Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum). Where else better to house it than in an old building from 1781, don’t you think?

Another framework barn, located at Friedenstraße 10, is now a hotel and a library. Ahh, a good book and a fine place to rest your head. Life doesn’t get better than this.

Well, strike that… sure it does. Weissach sits within the Swabian-Franconian Forest. So, why not hop on the Swabian Forest Railway for a steam train ride? Then again, a simple stroll over the Old Bridge (built 1741) can be lovely too.

You know what else is lovely? The Christmas Craft Market, the Christmas Market, the Christmas caroloing, and the gingerbread baking in the weeks leading up to Christmas. Yeah, it might be a bit chilly this time of the year, but you’ll hardly notice with all the sights, smells, and shopping.

Then follow it up with services at the 13th century church of St. Agatha (it’s now Evangelical). You just better be on-time, you know how we Germans are obsessed with time! ;-)

Cheers For Waldstetten And The Swabian Alb!

October 22nd, 2011

This week it seems like I’ve spent a good amount of time in Baden Württemberg. But, that’s OK because it brings me to snazzy places like Waldstetten in the northeastern part of the classy Swabian Alb.

Cheers for the Swabian Alb! Not only is this exceptionally beautiful landscape the perfect place to hike or bicycle, it is the location for the annual Albmarathon in October. You better be in tip-top shape for this; it’s an ultramarathon, which means its a 50km race instead of 26.

Yeah, I ain’t doing that anymore. ;-)

It’s the Nordic Walking Trails for me. You’ll find four tracks that range from 2.8km to 8.2km, and in varying degrees of difficulty. Of course, the longer track is demanding, while the middle ones are “moderately challenging.” You can even rent equipment if you didn’t bring your own.

Still too much work? OK, I got a walking trail for you. The Glaubenswege is a series of 27 trails known as Faith Paths to my English friends. Whether you’re here for spiritual reasons or just to clear your head of life’s daily stresses, you can do it at an easy pace.

I must insist that you save your epic journeys into the Alb for days when there aren’t any festivals going on. October seems to be the busiest month with the Dorffest (Village Festival), the Herbstfest (Fall Festival), and the Oktoberfest all taking place.

November’s great for the Advent Bazaar, where you can get a jump on your Christmas shopping. Maybe you’d rather do a waltz, and the Autumn Ball is the perfect place.

These Fall events means winter’s on its way, as well as the snow. Waldstetten is a snowy wonderland, and just as pretty whether the flowers are in bloom or the trees are coated with the white stuff.

Snow doesn’t let anyone stop them from moving. There’s South Germany’s highest Indoor-Kletteranlage (indoor climbing area), as well as a fitness and squash center. When the weather’s better you’re always welcome to try the Hochseilgarten (High Ropes Course) that has 25 “tasks” to accomplish.

One task that I need to accomplish is getting to Waldstetten’s Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum), but it’s only open on the 1st and 3rd Sunday of the month — filled with all sorts of fossils and artifacts from the area.

Again, cheers for the Swabian Alb — with an extra shoutout for Waldstetten! :-)

Allensbach — Hiking Adventures On Lake Constance

October 22nd, 2011

Allensbach in southern Baden-Württemberg kind of confused me.

I don’t know why I was a bit discombobulated, it’s not as if Allensbach wasn’t charming enough. It’s not as if it was hard to find, right on Lake Constance to be exact. It’s not even as if it didn’t have any castles (which it did).

Maybe I got more than I expected, and that’s why? Why ask why, just enjoy it, you say? Rightly so…

As my usual M.O. would be to start with the historical side of Allensbach, but not this time. Oh, no, the Bodensee was calling my name (which sounds funny under water, BTW, ha ha) for a day filled with sailing, swimming, surfing and boating.

Nah, make that two days of those great activities. Another day would be spent just golfing and bicycling around.

However, if you only got time to do one activity (other than on the shores of Lake Constance) make sure its hiking. Everyone comes to the Marienschlucht, or the Maria Canyon. This 100-meter deep gorge has only been accessible since the 19th century; perhaps that’s why some German aristocrat decided to put a castle here.

Surrounded by the Maria Canyon on one side and an artificial gorge on another along with Lake Constance you’d think the Burgruine Kargegg would have been protected. Nope, this 13th century castle was destroyed in 1525.

The Schloss Freudenthal is a castle that’s still intact at least. This Baroque castle was built in 1698, which was the same year Allensbach’s Nicholas Church was built. Its two Rococo side altars are exquisite.

Another castle is Schloss Hegne, originally built in 1570 as a bishop’s summer residence. It’s got a stunning view overlooking Lake Constance, and is now used for all sorts of events.

I sure hope you’re surprised by all the awesome stuff there is to do in lil’ Allensbach — and get more than what you’d expect. ;-)

Alfdorf — The Romans Would Have Loved The Nudist Area

October 22nd, 2011

Did you ever imagine yourself an explorer? Ever want to “discover” someplace new? A place no one’s ever seen or knows about, so you can name it after yourself?

For sure I can’t be the only one. And for sure it ain’t gonna happen in the town of Alfdorf — this place has been traversed, conquered, and lived in since before the Romans arrived.

However, it was the Romans who first left a lasting impression. Alfdorf was along the Limes, the Roman border which stretches some 81km from here.

One of the greatest ways to see the far reaches of the Roman Empire is along the German Limes Road.

Look, the Romans have been gone for some fifteen centuries so I don’t think they’ll care too much if you travel along the whole trail or just part of it. ;-)

You gotta save time to see the ruins of Castle Leineck, don’t ya? It shouldn’t take too long since only one section of the original 14th century castle’s wall remains. And believe it not, it wasn’t the Thirty Years’ War that destroyed this Burg — it was “done” in 1603, some fifteen years before the conflict broke out.

There is one castle that’s still standing. I mean two castles, but they’re part of the same complex. The Upper Castle is the younger one, built in 1602 and is now the town’s Rathaus. The Lower Castle was built fifty-two years earlier in 1550.

Not too many castles, but a heckava lotta mills. There were 26 mills operating at one point in Alfdorf’s history, and a number of them are still functional. A couple of them are of half-timbered construction — and I think the Hagmühle, the Heinlesmühle, and the Meuschenmühle were three of the most outstanding.

Milling might have been big business but so was pottery. It still is, and done in the old-fashioned way. If you like the crafty stuff, take a tour and see how its done.

For those of you who rather be outside, Alfdorf is a good place to be. Located within part of the Swabian-Franconian Forest, you’ll find a myriad of activity to keep you busy. Just watch where you go — there’s a nudist area there.

Clothing is NOT optional if you’re out golfing, fishing, horseback riding (unless you’re Lady Godiva), hiking, or taking a carriage ride.

I guess I could fashion myself an explorer in another way — and go check out that nudist area for ya. ;-)

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