Bad Sulza — Thuringian Tuscany With Wine

September 18th, 2015

Did you know there was a Thuringian Tuscany? Yup, neither did I until today — which I learned today when I was supposed to be getting to know Bad Sulza. Either way, this “Tuscan” region spreads beyond Thuringia, right into Saxony-Anhalt.

As for Bad Sulza itself, this rural town is actually 10 districts (plus two settlements), and found along the Ilm River. It’s known as both a spa and wine town, found only 15km from Naumburg and 18km from Jena.

Now that you know where you can find Bad Sulza, let’s get back to wine stuff. Seems like a perfect place to have an annual Weinfest (Wine Festival) every August, does it not? Plus there are also quite a number of walking trails along the vineyards. Simply beautiful.

Hiking along said vineyards isn’t the only activity that’ll allow you to enjoy the countryside. Ambitious types can cycle along the Ilmradweg, a 124km bike route that meanders right on through.

Enjoying the great outdoors isn’t limited to just hiking and cycling — there’s an array of activities here in Bad Sulza to keep everyone busy (and happy). It’s your choice if you want to go horseback riding, take a carriage ride, play miniature golf or tennis, go canoeing, or go fishing.

If you choose to go fishing you can get a permit over at the town’s Tourist Information Center, as well as arrange bike rentals.

History lovers aren’t left out of things to see and do either, by the way. You’ll find a memorial to 300 Soviet POWs who died here during World War II, as well as five steles detailing significant events during the Nazi years.

To go back further in history why not start at one of Bad Sulza’s old churches. I think my favorite is the Dorfkirche (Village Church) in Neustedt, but I’m sure you’ll have your own after seeing the ones in Gebstedt and Reisdorf, and the the Church of St. Vitus in Auersedt, the Church of St. Wigbert in Bergsulza, and Johannes Church in Dorfsulza.

Then again, why not learn some history over at the Saline and Local History Museum, housed in an old tavern. Hmm, history within history. Love that idea, just like I love Bad Sulza — don’t you?

Stockheim — Scenic In Upper Franconia

September 17th, 2015

Hold on a minute, I need to make sure I’m in the right place…

Yeah, go ahead, ask me if there’s more than one town of Stockheim in this state. Yeah, you’ll be interested to know there are two — and it seems like I came to the correct Stockheim, the one in Upper Franconia.

Sorry, Lower Franconian Stockheim, nothing personal, but this Stockheim lies along the famous Bier- und Burgenstraße. Beer and castles, life is really (really, really) good around here. ;-)

You might be interested to know the Beer & Castle Route isn’t the only scenic route to be found in Stockheim; because the place lies right along the Thuringian border, which means the Grünes Band (Green Belt) route slices right alongside the place.

Pretty countryside seems to be Stockheim’s biggest draw, no wonder so many cyclists come for the 3-day Franconian Forest Marathon every August. Three days of biking all around here? Sounds good, but then I might miss out on everything else there is to do around here. I’d much rather take a ride on the Franconian Forest Railway, a lovely 54km train ride from Probstzella to Hochstadt-Markzeulin.

Can you think of a better way to experience being in the Franconian Forest Nature Park? Well, what if I told you that all of Stockheim lies within the forest? Fantastic, isn’t it?

This just means if you’re visiting the lovely St. Laurentius (built 13th century) in the village of Burggrub, or the neo-Gothic chapel (on Ludwigsstädter Str. 26a), or the Church of St. Wolfgang (at Bergwerkstraße 20) — you’ll be right in the heart of the nature park.

These aren’t the only old churches in Stockheim, by the way. The Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Mary (13th century) is a medieval church at heart, while the Church of St. Catherine in the village of Neukenroth was built in the 1400s.

So far I’ve only mentioned churches, but I did say Stockheim is found on a castles route. So, off to see the Heunischenburg — a fortification from the 9th century B.C.; and the dark stone/round tower medieval & Baroque blended castle from the 13th century.

One thing’s for sure, you’re not going to confuse these two with the Schloss in the village of Haig, this one wasn’t built until 1731 — and just because it isn’t as old, doesn’t mean it’s not worth your time.

Heck, everything in the Upper Franconian town of Stockheim is worth your time. ;-)

Mittenaar — Glad About The Gladenbach Upland

September 17th, 2015

It’s never a dull moment here in Germany, that’s for sure; not to mention it’s always a learning experience. Why have I never heard of the Gladenbacher Bergland before coming to the town of Mittenaar? Ohh, the wonders I have been missing.

As for the Gladenbacher Bergland itself, Mittenaar finds itself located just nicely in this region of Hesse where the Westerwald hooks up with the Hintertaunus and Rothaargebirge — and it’s right near the Angelburg, a mountainous area that’s not only chocked full of amazing flora & fauna, but also boasts a prehistoric Celtic settlement area.

Fantastic, an area where nature meets history. And if you can’t get enough of the natural side of the place, Mittenaar finds itself along the Lahn Dill Bergland Nature Park — great if you’re into experiencing Nordic Walking trails. And I hardly think you’ll run of out quiet (not to mention pretty) trails (Nordic or otherwise) since more than half of Mittenaar is actually forested.

As for me, I’ll take the historical side. So I’m off to visit Burg Bicken. Well, I would have been if there was anything left of this 13th century castle that’s been gone for more than six hundred years.

At least Burg Tringenstein fared a little better, but not much. This castle too is a ruin, but there’s more left of this 14th century structure — and it survived a helluva lot longer, not falling into its ruined state until the 18th century.

What is it with all the castle ruins? The same fate befell Burg Wallenfels, another 14th century medieval castle — but at least this one had a moat; and sadly this castle was long-gone by the time the 16th century came rolling around.

It was rough times back then, I guess. Ahh, no guessing about it really — the village of Offenbach was known for its witch hunts, the villages of Bellersdorf and Ballersbach were totally ravaged by the Plague and Thirty Years’ War. These days it’s a bit more festive here in Mittenaar with such goodies as their Maypole celebrations and annual Christmas Market.

Woo-hoo, aren’t I glad I’m here in the Gladenbacher Bergland and Mittenaar these days — and believe you’ll think the same thing, too. :-)

Bruckberg (Lower Bavaria) — A Massive Castle Awaits

September 16th, 2015

It was fascinating to find out almost a quarter of Bruckberg’s forty-three villages were totally forested. Might not seem like a big deal to you, but when you’re this close to the city of Landshut, it’s nice to know you’re only a few minutes from the hustle and bustle of big-city life — wouldn’t you say?

What’s really remarkable about this part of Lower Bavaria (even if it hasn’t been developed by urban sprawl) is it’s been hustling and bustling for centuries, all the way back to the Neolithic Age — that’s some 6,000 years ago. However, the tumuli found around here didn’t come along until the Bronze Age, which ended some 3,000 years ago. Give or take a century, or two. ;-)

The bulk of what’s to see here in Bruckberg came along much later, like starting from the Middle Ages. You’ll find a whole bunch of old churches, which really are the highlight. I really couldn’t choose a favorite, but I’m partial to St. John the Baptist Church, whose origins go back to when Romanesque architecture was in style — even though it got a Gothic and Baroque renovation.

Speaking of Gothic architecture, there was a building boom about that time — giving Bruckberg its St. Stephen Church (15th century), the St. Gallus Church (also 15th century) — even though its tower wasn’t added on for another few centuries. Another Gothic church found in town is the Church of the Assumption, while another Baroque structure awaits at the chapel in the village of Bruckbergerau.

I got all excited about some of these other churches, that I almost forgot the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul (in the village of Gündlkofen) started off as a Romanesque church, too; although you’d never know it from its more modern Rococo makeover. And the Church of St. Paul, another Romanesque original, almost didn’t make the list here.

Yikes, I must be slacking today. Time for another coffee, I guess. Good thing there are quite a number of places here to grab a cup, along with a yummy bite to eat.

Great, now I got the energy to tell you about Schloss Bruckberg. The castle itself dates back to 11th century, but now boasting some 4 wings, a courtyard, and a tower.

Another cup of coffee and I might have the energy to clean this massive castle. ;-)

Frensdorf — A Year Of Fun Awaits

September 16th, 2015

As I sit here and write this page about the town of Frensdorf I am seriously contemplating taking a year off my campaign around Germany. Why? Oh, it’s as simple as it’ll take that long to experience everything.

Ohhh, if only I didn’t have work to do…

As for work, how does anyone who lives here manage to get any work done at all with so many festivals and cultural events? It seems as if there’s something going on every weekend throughout Frensdorf’s fourteen districts — but the highlights include the Floriansfest in Herrnsdorf in May, which is the same month as Birkach’s Brunnenfest and Frensdorf proper’s Pfarrfest take place.

June is popular for fun with a Johannifest, the Pfarrfest in Reundorf, and ending with the Summer Festival. Come in September if you want to experience both a Kirchweih and a Kirchweihmarkt, with three more Kirchweih events, and a Wine Festival in October. November’s a good month as any, with both a Martinimarkt and two Christmas Markets (in Frensdorf and in Reundorf).

Everyone straight about what festival they want to come for? Good, ’cause you’ll want to experience the historical side of Frensdorf, too. One of the town’s oldest places to visit is what used to be Kloster Schlüsselau. The monastery, originally built in 1280, was destroyed during the Peasants’ War conflict in the 1520s, but its church is still standing and acts as a Parish Church.

I’m not taking anything away from the rest of Frensdorf’s other churches — which include such goodies as the Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) of St. Johannes in Frensdorf (built in the 14th century); the Pfarrkirche St. Jakobus in Herrnsdorf from the 15th century; and the Baroque Sts. Anne & Mary Church in Hundsdorf.

Any town as old as Frensdorf that has churches this old is bound to have a castle, right? Well, it did in the village of Wingersdorf back in the 12th century — though it’s long gone. The only castle around these days is Schloss Weißenstein (in nearby Pommersfelden), a stunning example of Baroque architecture known for its frescoes and gardens. Tours are available between April and October to see this palatial estate that took some seven years to build in the early 1700s.

While nowhere nearly as old, you’ll find paintings and furnishings from around the 19th century at the Peasants Museum. Here’s where you can see how regular folks lived and worked in the old farm building.

With all this to experience I almost forgot I was in Upper Franconia, perfect for just enjoying the great outdoors in the shadow of Bamberg and Höchstadt an der Aisch.

Then again, just relaxing at a local beer garden in this neck of the woods is good enough for so many of us. And I could easily spend a year right there just watching the whole world come on by. ;-)

Brachttal — Travel The Südbahn In The Kinzig Valley

September 15th, 2015

To be totally honest, I didn’t know what the town of Brachttal was going to be like. I knew a little about it before — the town of six villages is located in the Kinzig Valley, bordering Bad Soden-Salmünster and Birstein in the Southern Vogelsberg Mountains.

OK, its geography isn’t all you need to know about Brachtal, but it sure does help if you’re gonna travel along the Vogelsberger Südbahnradweg. This 35km biking route even offers shuttles for you (and your bike) from May to October. Perfect if you’re tuckered out riding around all day.

Train lovers might appreciate taking the actual Vogelsberger Südbahn, a 31.6km train route — just as much as they’d love the miniature model of it in Brachttal’s Local History Museum.

While a train ride is nice, you’re not going to get the real feel of the place chugging along a track. You’re not going to see the 15th century St. Martin Church (in the village of Udenhain) that way, that’s for sure. And you’re not gonna get up-close-and-personal with what remains of a medieval castle in Spielberg.

You’ll want to see the Evangelical Church, too. Technically it isn’t a medieval one (built 1844), but the one here today is built over a much older one — so still historical nonetheless.

If after all this you still have the need to see more , then I’d say go to nearby Schloss Steinau. This old gem is a blend of medieval and Renaissance architecture — right down to its 13th century donjon and 16th century tower. And I wouldn’t leave with going to see Schloss Wächtersbach, a 3-story moated castle with these awesome round towers.

Just be sure to come back for Brachttal’s cultural celebrations. The Rosenmontag (Rose Monday) Ball is a nice one, as is the Summer Festival in June, and the 2-day Summer Festival in July.

It doesn’t matter that I didn’t know too much about Brachttal before, so long as I (and you) know how great it is now.

Waldbüttelbrunn — A Wallop In The Community Forest

September 15th, 2015

What a wonderful town Waldbüttelbrunn turned out to be. Located just eight kilometers west of the fabulous city of Würzburg, who really knew the greatness that was contained within just 19 square kilometers — I sure didn’t, but I’m glad I do now.

And it isn’t as if there are like a bazillion small hamlets that make up Waldbüttelbrunn, there are only three districts, so it really packs a punch in a small amount of space. ;-)

At this point I must sound like a broken record (that means to repeat myself over and over for the younger generation who don’t know what records are), since I keep saying you need to be outside to truly experience the grandeur of Lower Franconia. Good thing there are some five different Nordic Walking trails throughout town.

Don’t balk, it’s not as if you gotta hike some long-distance scenic route — the Nordic Walking paths are an easy 2.2km on Route #1, with the longest being Route #4 at 10km. Number 2, by the way, will take you past the Kapelle zum Guten Hirten, or Chapel of the Good Shepard.

What? Who didn’t know at this point I absolutely love old churches? So, speaking of those, don’t miss visiting the Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) of St. Joseph, built only in the 1860s, and there’s the Church of St. Kilian, if you’re so inclined to visit that one, too.

Right at where the Kirchstraße meets the Lindenstraße is the town’s Old Church, which now acts as its Culture Center. Sweet, who doesn’t love a grand cultural event in true Franconian style?

As for Waldbüttelbrunn’s cultural events, that would include such goodies as its Bockbierfest (held during Lent); its Carnival (right before Lent); the Maypole festivities (May 1st); the Pfarrfest (in June); its Bartholomäus Kirchweih (an August affair); and the Christmas Market (end of November).

Ahh, I knew I missed one in the list — that would be the Cabaret Festival in October. Plus, you can always join in on one of the guided community hikes.

For those wishing for solitude, venture out on your own into the Community Forest (Gemeindewald) with paths shaded by majestic Oaks and Maples. Keep a look out for a variety of wildlife including woodpeckers, owls, bats, and bugs.

Eww, bugs are creepy. I’ll take a visit to the old Tithe Barn from the 1700s, a stroll over an old stone bridge, and a stop at the World War I Memorial in the village of Roßbrunn, or scope out the foundations of the old Jagdschloss in Mädelhofen instead.

Do you see why I said Waldbüttelbrunn packs a wallop — even with the bugs in the forest. ;-)

Laaber — In The Land Of Castles, Rivers, Rocks

September 14th, 2015

In the beginning there didn’t appear to be too much going on in the town of Laaber, a charming town just one village over from the medieval wonders of Regensburg. But, as I got to know it better, I found all kinds of enjoyable things to see and do.

What I didn’t know on my first pass around, was the town lies within the Land der Burgen, Flüsse und Felsen. That would be the Land of Castles, Rivers, and Rocks for the non-German speaking crowd. Either way, you’ll find over forty castles within the Regensburg district, for which the region runs through.

It might also explain why Laaber lies along the Burgensteige — yet another scenic route.

Whichever way you’re choosing to follow, you’ll most definitely want to see the Burgruine Laaber. You might not be able to tell these days, but the castle once had its very own moat and drawbridge — just like a proper 12th century castle should.

Other castles in the area to see would be the Schloss Bergstetten, a lovely Baroque castle from the 17th century; too bad it’s privately owned. And if you want to go see where a 10th century castle once stood, then it’s over to the Burgruine Kallmünz for you.

These three castles aren’t even the tip of the iceberg (remember there are over 40), so if you’ve still got a yen to see more, then I suggest going over to see the Burgstall Egelsburg (built 1140); Burgstall Weihenstefen (built 1150); and Schloss Laufenthal (a 12th century original).

FYI, it might take you a while to find the Burgstall Durchelenburg (built just shy of a thousand years ago), as it sits along an unmarked trail. Nothing worth doing comes easy, does it? ;-)

As much as it pains me to say, visitors to Laaber can’t live by castles alone. Good thing there are a number of marked hiking trails through the Franconian Jura to explore. You’ll find a number of them lead off from Laaber Castle, if you’re interested. But, you could be just as happy strolling the banks (or canoeing) along the Schwarze Laber River.

Life probably couldn’t get any better than right here, but it actually does. How? Hello, this is Bavaria, plenty of festivals on top of everything else. Plan your visit to come for the Kirchweih on the second weekend of September, or the Bürgerfest in July if you really want to have a good time. And don’t worry about a place to stay, camping’s done all year round here.

It took a while to uncover the best of Laaber’s marvels, and it was most definitely worth the time and effort.

Striegistal — A Love Affair In The Ore Mountains

September 14th, 2015

The love affair I have with Saxony intensifies each time I find myself in towns like Striegistal. There’s no rhyme or reason why I found this town so charming — maybe I’m just a sucker for a quiet mountain town (it lies in the Ore Mountains, BTW).

Maybe I should say fifteen mountain hamlets, as Striegistal is actually that many villages. Böhrigen is the oldest, “founded” in 1183, while Kaltofen is the least populated, just over 75 residents.

We’re not here to talk about that though, you’d rather talk about what’s to see or do, right?

The first thing you should probably know about that is, Striegistal is best seen by hiking. There are quite a number of hiking routes through all its villages — ranging in length from a mere three kilometers, to a more “grueling” six kilometers. Can you think of a better way to kill an hour or two?

Yeah, me either. So, if you’re the type to appreciate tree lined lanes (oh, the ones in Kummersheim are delightful), or a six hundred year old chestnut tree, then this town is perfect for you.

The natural side of town doesn’t just end there. Pappendorf has hiking trails right through a conservation area.

Striegistal isn’t without a historical side for the history buffs in the crowd. While you’re in Marbach lookout for the Hexentisch (Witches’ Table), thought to be stone cross from the Middle Ages. And the town is full of both reconstructed or replicas of Saxon milestones from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Also from the 18th century is the Backhaus (Bake House) in Gersdorf, built way back in 1772. Gersdorf, by the way, is where you’ll find the Schloss Gersdorf — a graceful looking manor house.

In more recent history, like the 20th century, you’ll find a memorial to those who died here during a death march from the Buchenwald Concentration Camp.

It isn’t right to end on a somber note, so I better tell you about the town’s Blütenfest (Blooms Festival) in May. Who doesn’t love a good party? I do — and it’s exactly why I love places like Striegistal, and think you will too.

Lüdersdorf — The Best Of Everything

September 11th, 2015

Navigating your way around the town of Lüdersdorf can be a bit… um, confusing.

No problem here, I’ll explain it all to you. First things first, Lüdersdorf belongs to the Amt Schönberger Land, a collective municipality for which Lüdersdorf is the most populated of all its towns.

Secondly, despite having the biggest population, it’s not exactly where you’ll find the most to do. So, making a last minute “executive decision,” I’m going to add in a few of the other things to do within its sister-towns.

One of the first things to know about Lüdersdorf (or the Schönberger Land) is it lies along the Green Belt — you know, that scenic route of “green areas” that once divided East and West Germany (in this case, eastern Lüdersdorf bordered western Schleswig-Holstein — and still does).

While it’s great the “no man’s land” of an inner-German border is long gone, it’s fantastic the natural areas are thriving.

You don’t even have to stick to hiking or cycling inland, as part of Lüdersdorf lie right along the Baltic Sea. I thought I smelled salt air. ;-)

Fishing always comes to mind when thinking about the sea — and the Baltic is a great place to do it; but you can also get a license to fish in the moors of Duvennest (one of Lüdersdorf’s villages) stocked with all kinds of carp, pike, and other fishes.

Another thing you’ll find out in the countryside is the Pomertstein, a medieval memorial stone engraved in Latin. English and German are hard enough without having to read Latin — but whatever it says, it dates back from more than 500 years ago. Now that I think about it, that’s from around the same time the town’s Dorfkirche (Village Church) came to life.

The Art Gallery, housed in the Alten Zollhaus (Old Customs House) is a more modern addition to town, by the way. Another modern day addition to the Amt Schönberger Land is the Erlebnis & Tigerpark in Dassow. You didn’t read that wrong, I said (wrote) Tiger Park. Aren’t they just the cutest cats ever?

Dassow, by the way, is a nice town to visit to see craggy rocky cliffs — not one, but two castles (Schloss Lütgenhof from the 19th century) and Wasserschloss Johannstorf. And I’d never forgive myself if I left anything out on the 13th century St. Nicholas Church.

Old castles and an old church not quite old enough for you? No problem, you can always come to Menzendorf to see its early-Gothic church, or come looking for more Bronze Age burial mounds in the town of Groß Siemz.

One more stop and we’re done — so off to the town of Schönberg — a town of around 4,000 people, and home to a quaint Folklore Museum. Right outside its St. Lawrence Church is a Luther Memorial, and the church is the venue for concerts during the Summer of Music.

Do you see why I added the Schönberger Land in with Lüdersdorf? Right, it gives you the very best of everything. ;-)

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