What do you do when you want to visit a town that doesn’t have any hotels, or stuff like that? Do you not visit? Do you skip right over it on the map — not even bothering to give it another thought? Well, if it’s about the Upper Bavarian town of Karlshuld, then you’d better stop and pay attention.

So what if you’re not going to find huge hotels? Big deal, stay in nearby Neuburg a.d. Donau, Königsmoos, or even Ingolstadt for that matter; either way you’re in prime Old Bavarian real estate, and able to enjoy all the wonders of Karlshuld.

So, what are the towns’ wonders?

For starters, you’re in the middle of the so-called Altbayerische Donaumoos, or Old Bavarian Danube Moss. This is a nature reserve area of some 593 square kilometers of dried out fen land south of the Danube River. Nowadays, potatoes are primarily being cultivated in this area.

My personal favorite time to enjoy the landscape is right after a snowstorm. I love how the colors of the Karlshuld’s Evangelical Church blend into the bright powdery whiteness.

I’m not taking anything away from the charming Catholic village church, mind you. What’s not to love about a 19th century church?

It’s also hard not to love a castle either. While technically not within the boundaries of Karlshuld, the Jagdschloss Grünau is worth venturing off for. Remember to look up, because the details on the sloped roof shouldn’t be missed. I love the small red shuttered windows, too, making this mid-16th century castle look menacing, to say the least.

The castle might look unfriendly, but thanks to good Upper Bavarian hospitality you’ll be welcomed with open arms to one of Karlshuld’s cultural events. If you don’t like snow, you’ll probably want to come in the Spring for the multi-day Donaumoosvolksfest, the Pfarrfest in June, or July’s Rosenfest.

If the cooler weather doesn’t bother you, then you should be here for September’s Oktoberfest, or the November Wine Festival. In the middle of winter Karlshuld has all kinds of Carnival events, and the Kleintiermarkt in January.

Told ya not to glance over Karlshuld — see what you’d be missing?

Every time I get to see a new town or village in Germany there’s no telling what it might be to jump out to catch my attention. Sometimes I’m floored by the number of festivals, or gasping in awe at the natural beauty of the place. And then… sometimes I find myself totally enamored with all the history and stunning architecture. Which is exactly what happened in the Hessian town of Diemelstadt.

Within each of Diemelstadt’s nine villages are centuries upon centuries of history seen within its many buildings. Despite the Alt-Rhoden being a desolate ruin, there’s a serene beauty its crumbling medieval walls. It takes but a small imagination to see its once imposing Romanesque walls from a thousand years ago.

The district of Rhoden, established in the year 1020, has more than a church ruin, it’s home to Schloss Rhoden. Its early-Baroque facade belies its 13th century beginnings; and its family vault is the final resting place for many of its noble residents from yesteryear. No trip to Rhoden is ever complete without a stroll around its Church Square, with the town’s old Rathaus (Town Hall); nor should you miss a stop by the town’s old Jewish Cemetery.

Diemelstadt’s medieval growth didn’t end there — that’s when Burg Brobeck was built around 1185. It wasn’t around too long, since it was totally abandoned before the 1500s came to an end; sadly there’s nothing left. When you can’t get enough of the Middle Ages, then it’s off to the Siedlung Gaulskopf for you to see an early medieval settlement.

The town’s history is actually much (much, much) older, as Celtic burial mounds were found in the village of Dehausen, by the way. Still, that’s not to take anything away from the 4-steepled tower of the 16th century church in Wrexen.

History isn’t just what happened hundreds of years ago, ya know. Back in 1976, the village of Helmighausen won the Unser Dorf soll schöner werden, or Our Village is Beautiful award. Yes, Helmighausen, you are beautiful.

I was so enthralled by Diemelstadt’s history, I forgot to look for anything else — although I hear they have a wonderful Harvest Festival and Laternenfest. Hmm, that’s just an excuse to come back again, isn’t it? ;-)

Just about four hundred years ago the castle, known as the Küssaburg, was destroyed by its owners, so the invading Swedes couldn’t have the medieval structure. Interesting fact to start off with about the town of Küssaberg, huh?

Weird fact, or not, Küssaburg, the castle, gives its visitors a chance to enjoy views of the Unterklettgau and Black Forest from its 634-meters above sea level vantage point. Holy-moley, is that Switzerland? Yup, it sure is.

No, I’m not kidding… the town of Küssaberg, incl. its Küssaburg Castle, lies on the Swiss border.

Four centuries sure does sound like a long time ago, though the town of Küssaberg really goes back much further than that. Evidence has been found of a very old Celtic Oppidum (a Latin word for a settlement), and the hamlet of Bechtersbohl used to be located on an old Roman Road. If you like Roman history, pay a visit to the Römerlager Dangstetten (from about 15 B.C.) in the village of Dangstetten.

While you’re here, you might want to hike some of its many marked trails — ranging from a leisurely 9.5 km, to a more active 15.6 km; still you’ll pass along paths through the Black Forest, the Rhine, and even stone ruins.

Just one thing… if you’re going to tackle Route #4, you might want to do it in the warmer months since it can get a bit treacherous out there in the winter, and some parts of it have limited access during the colder months.

When you go ask at the Tourist Office, they’ll most likely direct you to the Küssaberg Museum, too, which is only open on Sundays from 2:30pm-5:00pm, BTW. Good thing entrance is free. :-)

The rest of the week will keep you busy with e-biking (electric bikes), or mountain biking, visiting the Reckingen Power Plant, or the Barzmühle, a watermill from the 15th century. These last two fall under the umbrella of great German engineering, so folks are interested.

I’m interested in seeing the ruins of the Küssaberg again — see ya there.

Last week it was all about beach going and soaking up the sun on the Baltic Coast, but that’s not on the agenda for today. Oh, I’m definitely not complaining, because I don’t mind meandering around half-timbered houses and scoping out old churches like I’ve done here in Gronau (Leine).

As its name implies, Gronau (and the Collective Muncipality of the same name) lies along the Leine River, just 15 km southwest of Hildesheim, along the Sieben Berge — said to be the home of Snow White’s friends, the Seven Dwarfs.

Its location of legend isn’t all Gronau has going for it, by the way. As I said, there are quite a number of half-timbered houses, but it’s the churches you’ll really need to see.

Probably the most famous of Gronau’s churches is St. Matthew’s, whose 65-meter tower has been dominating the town’s skyline for over 500 years. The St. Joseph Church is also a must-see, and if you don’t mind trekking about in a cemetery there’s medieval church inside.

Castles are always a sure winner to see; and if it wasn’t for Schloss Rheden’s light and bright exterior, you’d think it’d belong in an Addams Family episode. Wait, I’m not sure if that came out right… so let’s move on. ;-)

Over in the hamlet of Betheln is the Kloster Escherde, once a former Benedictine monastery from the early years of the 1200s. Even older is the Beusterberg, some kind of Stone Age settlement area, making it over 5,000 years old.

You won’t find that kind of history in the Heritage Museum in the village of Brüggen, but you’ll find a very pretty 17th century castle nearby.

You know what else is pretty here in Gronau? Yup, you guessed it, the relatively flat Lower Saxon countryside. There are plenty of cycling paths around town, and you’re awfully close to the Weser Uplands to explore around there, too. Nature lovers will no doubt love the Leineaue unter dem Rammelsberg (a nature reserve), and the Gronauer Masch, a nature reserve home to lots of waterfowl.

When partying is on your mind, good thing the town can accommodate. The Village Festival, an annual July event, is always a good time, as is the Summer Festival in July and the Osterfeuer. Hey, nothing against a party with setting things on fire, right? ;-)

With all this it’s easy to understand why you and I won’t be complaining about spending any time here here in Gronau (Leine).

What a unique and fascinating place the town of Weßling turned out to be. Yes, I know I say that a lot but can you blame me? Really, where else but Germany can you find centuries old churches getting a fly-by from an Airbus A380?

You know there’s a point to me mentioning this, right? Of course there is, as the historical town of Weßling lies right near a modern-day Oberpfaffenhofen Airfield used by Airbus. Sorry, I had to say something — who doesn’t get excited watching planes take-off and land? I know I do! ;-)

I also get excited about lovely old churches, like the St. Jacob Church — a perfect blend of medieval and Baroque art & architecture. And I don’t care what anyone says, the dome atop the Parish Church Christ the king looks like a hat on a Dr. Seuss drawing. Don’t laugh, I mean it with the utmost love. ;-)

Weßling’s other must-see church is its Pilgrimage Chapel, where a hunter’s prayer was said to have been answered by Mary on this very spot. Twice a year the town celebrates an outdoor Mass, so maybe you’ll be lucky enough to be here for one. Sadly, I did not.

What I didn’t miss was a visit to nearby Schloss Seefeld, a Baroque castle whose beginnings go all the way back to the mid-12th century; even better are the snow-capped mountains in the distance.

No one is saying you gotta hike those mountains, but you really should be outside for some of your visit. Oh it’s easy, find a hiking trail and just walk. Oh, I know, a great outdoorsy thing to do is hike by the Weßlinger See, a small spring-fed lake.

But, if it’s a festival or other kind of event you’re looking for — this is Upper Bavaria, so you’re bound to find one you like. Springtime is the time of year for the May Day Celebrations, while Summer’s quite busy with the Film Festival and Forest Festival. I also like the Autumn — and even better that it’s the season for Weßling’s Wine Festival.

Hey, just remember pilots — just as there’s no drinking and driving, there’s no drinking and flying. ;-)

It’s hard to start off these written pages in song, but here goes…

“Wenn Kirchenglocken festlich klingen im ganzen Dorf und Tal entlang, da will mein Herz vor Freude singen, so wie der Glocken heller Klang, hier möchte ich sein mein Leben lang. Oberboihingen.”

To paraphrase this ditty (written by Willi Groß), this Heimatlied tells how your heart sings with joy, and wanting to be in the town of Oberboihingen all your life.

Yeah, I totally get that. But, if you aren’t able to live here in this Swabian Alb town, at least come visit for its two very famous festivals.

Oberboihingen is most noted for its Schäfermarkt, or Shepherd’s Market. Every two years, on even-numbered years, everyone gets together on the first weekend of June to buy (or learn) all about sheep products — everything from sausages to cheese to even handicrafts. Even if you don’t need anything made from wool, you’ll sit at one of the many tables drinking sheep wine.

Ha-ha, just kidding, just wanted to see if you’re paying attention. ;-)

The other big market around town is the Dorffest, another festival taking place every two years; this one on odd-numbered years.

At least you don’t have to wait years for the town’s Christmas Market. Come buy little gifts for your family and friends, drink mulled wine, and eat the tastiest street food on the first weekend of Advent. Trust me, you’ll love it.

Between you and me, this is some crisp weather to enjoy hiking along Oberboihingen’s hiking trail. Here’s 11.5 km of pretty Swabian countryside, and it’s a prime season to wander around the rest of town.

Don’t miss a visit to the Church of St. Bartholomew’s, once a 13th century chapel. Today’s church isn’t a sprawling medieval structure, but a narrow and tidy church with stunning stained glass windows.

You really shouldn’t miss the Hohenwiel, either. The Old Rectory is a wonderful example of half-timbered architecture from 1467 — that’s right, the old gal is over 500 years old.

I wouldn’t mind living here that long, this way I’d have plenty of time to experience Oberboihingen’s Easter Market (held at the Dorfplatz), its Waldfest, its Summer Festival, and its Kartoffelfest (a festival all about the potato).

Yes, Willi, you’re right — my heart sings with joy about Oberboihingen, too.

Right in the Ortenau, next to Achern, is the very small (just 16.75 square kilometers) town of Sasbach.

What I found within this diminutive village was nothing short of concentrated goodness.

Speaking of concentrated goodness, let’s talk about Sasbach’s wines for a minute, shall we? Wine making is pretty big business in these parts, with the Pinot Noir grape being the most popular. That makes a red wine, if you didn’t know, but the Grey Burgundy makes a really yummy white one if you’re so inclined to try a wine tasting.

Where there’s wine in Germany, often there’s a Wine Festival. Sasbach doesn’t disappoint there, with a 2-day festival held every October.

As lovely as the Wine Festival is, it sure isn’t the only event in town. Sasbach offers up everything from its St. Bridget Feast (February), to its Maypole festivities, Summer Festival (May), Forest Festival (July), Brettelsmarkt (October), Altsasbacher Tage (another 2-day event), and its Advent Bazaar in November.

In between the lively fun, good eats, and bouts of merry drinking — you can visit the Toni Merz Museum, which is really an exhibition of the 20th century artist’s works. Sorry, but it’s only open on Sundays and holidays — so be like a proper German, and plan accordingly.

Also plan on visiting the Turenne Museum, with exhibitions on the French General, while you’re at it too. He was killed in action here back during the 17th century Battle of Sasbach, during the Franco-Dutch War.

Other notable (and notorious) folks that have found their way to Sasbach include Franz von Papen, once an ambassador for the German Empire and a member of Adolf Hitler’s Cabinet. Major General Walther Dornberg died here in 1980; you might not have heard of him, but he was awarded a First and Second Class Iron Cross, and was famous rocket scientist, Wernher von Braun’s, boss.

I think the only thing left to see is the town’s Parish Church, whose origins go back to the 8th century, the Kühnerhof (a 300 year old mill that’s open only on Heritage Day), and the trek along any of the many hiking trails (oh, the Ortenauer Wine Path is a good one).

See… told you Sasbach was concentrated goodness with wine, history, great festivals, in a pretty countryside.

Here are two words for you: Berchtesgadener Land. They probably have to be two of the best words in all of Germany — an outstanding piece of real estate that brings you to towns like Saaldorf-Surheim.

Now I’m not gonna sugar-coat this, Saaldorf-Surheim isn’t the place to be for fast and hard action. It is, however, the perfect place to be if you’re happy and content to stroll along a river bank (the Salzach River), gasp in awe at the surrounding Bavarian Alps, and prefer camping and small guesthouses rather than funky & eclectic hotels.

And it sure is a nice place if you’re into the whole history kind of thing, since Saaldorf-Surheim is over 1200 years old (officially), but technically is much (much much) older, as an old Roman road came right on through. In fact, if you head on over to the Rathaus, or Town Hall, you’ll find a Roman grave stone.

After the Romans picked up and left, Germany (and the rest of Europe) was plunged into the Dark Ages, also known as the Middle Ages. That’s probably a better term for it (in my not-so-humble opinion) since it was during the medieval period that many castles and churches were built.

What’s this got to do with it? Plenty, because it was during this time that Saaldorf-Surheim’s St. John the Baptist church was erected (don’t let its Baroque facade fool you), and the Church of St. George was built in the 14th century. Oh yes, we got to add the Church of St. Stephen into this as well, it does have a Romanesque core.

A few of the churches within Saaldorf-Surheim’s 53 villages have seen a Baroque overhaul; but between you and me, the Pfarrkirche St. Martin is what’s known as neo-Baroque — only built at the turn of the last century.

This is Upper Bavaria, so, of course, be prepared to spend as much time outdoors as you can. Saaldorf-Surheim lies right in the heart of the Rupertiwinkel, a natural area of hiking trails and bike paths. Don’t forget to come by the Abstorfer See, a particularly gorgeous lake and area where the stresses of life can melt away at and over the water.

Want to know what else will kill stress? That’s right, a good party. Lucky for us Saaldorf-Surheim does it proper Bavarian panache. There are two Village Festivals (1 in May, the other in July), and a Waldfest (a Forest Festival in May), and a 4-day Herbstfest (Autumn Festival) every August.

See, I told you that only two words were needed. Maybe instead of the Berchtesgadener Land, I should’ve just started with Saaldor-Surheim from the beginning. ;-)

Ugh, I’m so conflicted when I have to write about such beautiful Bavarian towns like Hebertshausen, yet find themselves close enough to sites in some of Germany’s darkest periods in history. Like, how do you manage to write that in? I guess I’m just gonna have to start with the darker side, then lighten it up a bit.

Why the literary struggle? It’s because Hebertshausen lies right next door to the town of Dachau, making it close enough to see what was once the Dachau Concentration Camp. Opened in 1933, the camp housed all sorts of prisoners — everything from royalty to writers to politicians to scientists. The camp even housed SS soldiers who awaited trial at the end of World War II.

All right, the rest of area in, and around, Hebertshausen is a much lighter place to be. The countryside is quiet and serene, a great place to go fishing or take an educational stroll along the Walderlebnispfad.

Another great place is anywhere along the Dachauer Moos, where you’ll find everything from a swamp to meadows to forests. No wonder so many 19th and 20th century painters were so inspired to recreate the picturesque views.

This is also a great place to visit if you like (or love) old architecture — and there’s no place better to see that than at any one of the town’s many churches. If you like Gothic ones, Hebertshausen has ’em; so come to St. Kastulus in Prittlbach, or the Church of St. Nicholas.

Like Baroque churches? Good, because you’ll find them here, too. Let’s see… you’ll want to see Oberweilbach’s Church of St. Johann Baptist, or the Chapel of St. Sebastian then.

I’ll take medieval churches any day, so I liked the Romanesque/Gothic St. Peter’s Church in Ampermoching, built way back in 1315; and the Church of St. George — another Romanesque/Gothic blended church.

What’s a medieval church without a medieval castle? Lucky for me, Schloss Deutenhofen is exactly one of those — a proper castle built in the mid-14th century. Although burned down during the Thirty Years’ War, it was rebuilt right afterwards and used as a hospital during WWII.

Too bad there’s no visiting Schloss Haimhausen (over in Haimhausen), you’d never guess from its current state that this was once a castle from the Middle Ages. It’s current structure didn’t come along until after the Thirty Years’ War. Today it belongs to the Bavarian International School (BIS). Still, you might want to get a few snapshots of its grand staircase.

The conflict is gone about Hebertshausen. While I know there’s a dark part of history surrounding the area, I have managed to find the light and beauty within this enchanting town, and I think you will too.

By all accounts, the official town of Pausa-Mühltroff didn’t actually exist until recently — January 1, 2013 to give it an exact date — when the two towns merged. However, if you’re thinking you’re only getting two places for the price of one, you’re mistaken; turns out, Pausa-Mühltroff is a bunch of smaller villages thrown in, too.

Trust me, I’m not complaining about some geographical/political reorganization, since Pausa-Mühltroff, located in western Saxony, fall right on the Thuringian border, and just 17 km from the Bavarian one. Some exceptional looking real estate, yes? :-)

Many of Pausa-Mühltroff’s smaller villages, once belonging to East Germany, were used for the Soviet’s idea of farming. Agriculture is still vital to the economy, and the rolling fields of crops are quite pleasing to the eyes (or a harried soul).

And if you think Pausa-Mühltroff is pretty above the surface of the earth, you’ll be excited to know it’s just as pretty below. Get out into the Vogtland countryside to see the Drachenhöhle Syrau, a stalagmite cave thousands of years old — but found only in 1928. Visits might be limited, but that doesn’t stop the laser light shows that run from May to August.

You really can’t make a cave a landmark, could you? I guess not, which might explain why that honor falls to Schloss Mühltroff. Oh, I’m not complaining, why not let the 10th century grande dame have her due? Yes, I’m fully aware the castle you’re staring at wasn’t built until the 16th/17th centuries, but it’s history still precedes it by 600-plus years.

Did you also know Pausa-Mühltroff is known by another name? Right, they call it the Mittelpunkt der Erde, or the “Center of the Earth.” Honestly I don’t know the real reason (hell, I’m a writer, not a scientist), but it has something to do with the Earth’s axis. If I’m standing by the brass ball making the spot, does that mean the Earth revolves around me?

Wait, it already does.

Yes, yes, I make bad jokes, but they make me chuckle — putting me in a jovial mood for a fine German festival. Thankfully Pausa-Mühltroff has a Wine Festival (mid-October), and the town even holds its own Christmas Market, an Herbstmarkt (late September), and July’s quite busy with its Gemeindefest, Sommerfest, and Badfest.

Sounds tiring, so good thing you’ll find restful (and clean!) accommodations where you can lay your head after a day of sightseeing around town.

Hey, is it the Earth’s axis making the room spin? No, it’s just the wine. ;-)