Lonsee — Hiking In Romans’ Footsteps

May 9th, 2017

Life is about choices. Go left, and things turn out one way. Go right and something else entirely happens. That being said, what I do know about choices — is you’re not gonna make a bad one when it comes to the town of Lonsee.

Hello… it’s in the Lonetal (Lone Valley) region of the Swabian Alb. Not to mention Lonsee even has both historical and festive sides to it.

I’d gander to say the Romans who once called this area home would appreciate the vibrant town that it is now. They might be gone now, but their ancient fort is still around; so come on over to the village of Stengädele to see Kastell Urspring.

The great thing about the old Roman fort is that affords you an opportunity to explore around outdoors. And even if you’re not interested in seeing an 1,800-year-old fort, you can choose (see, there’s that word again) one of Lonsee’s marked hiking trails.

The Panorama Trail is slightly shorter at 15km, and the Berg- und Talweg (Mountain and Valley Trail) is only 12.5km. If you got the kids going with you, then the Lonetopfweg is a good one to do — it’s a family-friendly route of just 4.5km. They all start at the Rathaus (Town Hall), so that makes it easy enough to find — while providing you with nice photo opps upfront.

And to go back to those rascally Romans again, follow along the Römerweg for a whopping 19km. Best give yourself a whole morning or afternoon, since it’ll take you about 5-6 hours to walk it.

Lonsee isn’t all outdoorsy activities and Romans. Oh heck no, it’s a town that likes to party. Some of the town’s highlights include festivals like the Brunnenplatzfest (June), the Dorffest (Village Festival) at the end of June, and both the Sommerfest and Lindenfest taking place in July.

Let’s not forget about the Lonseer Markt in August — a great place to get everything from vegetables to shoes.

No worries if shopping’s too much for you, just go relax by Lake Lonsee. Plus, if you want a little bit more nightlife action, you’re only about 15km to Ulm, and the Nachtbus that runs on the weekends (Fri-Sun) can help you get there.

Since life is about choices, why would you choose to ever leave?

Arnsdorf — Biking, Hiking, Praying

May 8th, 2017

It sure does feel good to be back in Saxony. After what feels like a long hiatus, it’s time to explore more of this beautiful state. Speaking of which, I tried to find just the right place to restart my quest — so, welcome to the town of Arnsdorf!

You’ll find Arnsdorf between Dresden and Bautzen, a historical town along an old trade route from Bohemia. That means it has a castle, right?

Sorta — you’re close to Burg Stolpen, but before you wander off too far, how about getting to know Arnsdorf a little better? It’s hard to choose where to start, but I’d have to say the themed bike trails are a good choice. Can you think of a better way to explore around the Saxon Switzerland region?

Yea, me either. Of course all that riding around does earn you a chance to rest every once and while — so off to the Karlswaldbad, so long as it’s between May and September.

After a refreshing dip, it’s time to hit up the historical side of town. Kleinwolmsdorf (one of its four districts) is just the place. To make things easy for you, right along Großerkmannsdorfer Straße is a 19th century “castle,” an old church (the original is from the 16th century), and a World War I Monument. There’s even a small pond — which looks picture perfect after a snow storm.

I’d probably say the village church in Fischbach evokes the same feeling, but then again, there’s something really beautiful about old churches — this one coming from the 16th century, too. But, it’s the 14th century Dorfkirche in Wallroda that steals the show — just don’t ask me why, it’s never anything definitive.

Also in Wallroda are a number of half-timbered houses, which are always awesome to see. I don’t think it’s possible to ever tire of looking at these grand structures, don’t you?

Just like I’m sure no one will ever tire of a good ol’ German festival, like the Badfest in July, or the Halloween Festival in October.

Don’t party too much, though. Devotion is in order as the Way Of St. James — a pilgrimage trail — leads along here too.

Yes, I could’ve restarted my travels around Germany anywhere, but why not restart in a typical German town that’s far from ordinary? Ooh, it feels good to be back. ;-)

Aying — Doin’ Fine On Its Own With Via Julia

May 3rd, 2017

What do you do when one of your biggest neighbors is magnificent Munich? This is a simple question that should be posed by the town of Aying, but there’s no easy answer. C’mon, did you really expect there to be one?

Don’t look at me like it’s a bad thing — this is Upper Bavaria, after all.

So, as I’ve said oh-so-countless-times before, there’s no better place to be than outdoors. Now, stop reading this and go see the private zoo named BergTierPark, or find your happy place amongst the trails of the Kupferbachtal or in the Hofeldinger Forest.

Wait, I take that back… don’t go until you’ve read more about Aying. Like, don’t you want to hear about how the Romans tromped on through, as Aying was located on the Via Julia. Ohhh, yet another area to enjoy while on a bike ride. Just follow the blue signs on the old military road, OK?

While you’re out and about through Aying, you’re sure to see some excellent architecture. You’re nearby places like Schloss Egmating (17th century), or Schloss Zinneberg — but within Aying’s official 44.98 square kilometers, you’ll find some gems.

In the village of Kleinhelfendorf is the Marterkapelle, a graceful chapel with an onion dome, which isn’t to be confused with the Church of St. Emmeram, a medieval original.

The village of Peiß has a Baroque church to see, the Church of St. Nicholas, built in the last years of the 17th century. And you’ve got the Church of St. Andreas, in yet another of Aying’s nineteen districts, this one from the 14th/15th century.

Sixthof is home to an old farm that doubles at a Local History Museum (of sorts), inside are exhibits on crafts and furnishings of a time long gone. No need to wallow over how good it was WAY-BACK-WHEN. But, discussing it over a delicious beer is totally acceptable.

Good thing Aying has its own brewery, and an award winning one at that. Brauerei Aying is a privately owned brewery that makes its beers with mineral water from its own well. I ask you, how cool is that?

And thanks to the strict laws of Munich’s Oktoberfest, Aying is “forced” to old its own festival with a beer tent and lots of traditional foods being served. This isn’t Aying’s only festival, oh heck no.

Come in May for the Maypole celebrations, or the end of November for the Glühweinfest (Mulled Wine Festival), and December brings around the obligatory Christmas Market.

As if those aren’t great enough, Peiß hosts an annual Dorffest (Village Festival) — and throughout the year are Amateur Theater performances.

As I said, there’s no easy answer about what to do when Munich is your big neighbor… but it looks like Aying is doing just fine all on its own.

Speyer Cathedral — Romanesque Architecture Thanks Konrad

April 28th, 2017

UNESCO added Speyer Cathedral (Speyerer Dom) to its World Heritage Sites in 1981, a long time to wait for recognition considering it was built in 1025, at the behest of King Conrad II.

What did it do to deserve the accolades from UNESCO? It met criteria #2 — it extolled the virtues of human vales over a span of time. I’d say.

About Speyer Cathedral And Its History

The cathedral was also the final resting place for Germany’s emperors for close to 300 years. In fact, Konrad himself had to be buried somewhere else for a while as his masterpiece wasn’t completed by the time he died. It did take 81 years to build, so who didn’t think that was gonna happen? ;-)

If you look around the Speyer Cathedral today you might notice that it has undergone some considerable renovations over the last millennia. A fire ravaged much of the cathedral in 1689 so it did get some Baroque accents over the original Romanesque design.

So impressive was that design, it’s believed that just about every other Romanesque church followed its example (not all of them used red sandstone (from the Palatinate Forest) like this Speyer Cathedral). Yeah, seems like that’s where Criteria #2 comes in, huh?

Speyer Cathedral Highlights And Features

If you want to see what has survived from the original floorplan, you’ll have to go down into the crypts. For €3.50, it’s worth it to see where Konrad, and other kings (one of the last was King Adolf of Nassau in the early 1300s), are buried.

Besides its crypts, the church also had a number of small side chapels added in its construction. When Henry IV fell out of favor with the Pope, he was buried in an unconsecrated chapel until his excommunication was lifted (posthumously, of course).

I know, doesn’t sound like much today — but a very big deal back then.

Not even a hundred years after the church was built, it underwent an expansion — bringing it to the 134-meter length by 43-meter width of today. And that’s not even including its 65-meter high west spires, and the 71-meter high east spires.

Architects that redesigned the cathedral after the Nine Years War (go figure, the church somehow managed to survive the prior Thirty Years’ War with almost no damage) kepts those early 12th century measurements.

Speyer Cathedral is also remarkable in that it was the 2nd largest vaulted building to the north of the Alps (only behind Aachen Cathedral), and its dwarf gallery (that ornamentation just below its roof outside) went on to become quite a popular architectural feature in Germany — and this church is where it all started.

One last thing you need to know about Speyer Cathedral lies outside its Romanesque walls; it’s the font that can hold 1,560 liters (I wonder who had to count?) — and is a symbol between the city of Speyer and the diocese. And in the South Garden there’s a 19th century replica of a 15th century original sculpture known as the Mount of Olives. Just beautiful.

Location And Opening Hours

Speyer Cathedral is located in the city center of Speyer, right on its Domplatz (Cathedral Plaza); and open to guided tours — so long as you’ve prearranged them with the Diocese ahead of time.

If you’re wantin’ to see it all by yourself, you can do it from 9am-7pm Monday-Saturday and from 12pm-8pm on Sundays from April 1 to October 31. From November to March the church is open 9am-5pm Monday-Saturday and from 12pm-8pm on Sundays.

Services are held Sundays all-year round at 7:30am, 10am, and 6pm. Plus, a few times during the week in the Afra Kapelle (Afra Chapel), Mondays-Fridays at 7am, Tuesdays and Fridays at 6pm, and Saturdays at 7:30am. Noon Prayers (Mittagsgebete) are offered at 12:10pm on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Speyer Cathedral Website: http://www.dom-zu-speyer.de/?L=1

Mahlberg — Smoking And Drinking Is Allowed?

April 28th, 2017

In the 21st century, we’ve all gotten the point that smoking is bad for your health. Not that smoking is a requirement to visit the town of Mahlberg, but it does come to mind.

The reason being, the Oberrheinisches Tabakmuseum, or Upper Rhine Tobacco Museum. Long before the warnings and dangers came to light about the effects of smoking, tobacco was a huge boost to the economy.

The museum (open Sundays & Holidays) details the history and economics of the plant (with these odd looking mannequins, but that’s another story), and even has exhibits on tobacco accessories.

What’s not odd, are the countless bike trails throughout the countryside. Friends, Mahlberg sits at the foot of the Black Forest region, so you know it’s stunning around here. A portion of the thirty or so Sagen und Mythen der Ortenau, or Legends and Myths of the Ortenau, bike trails run through here. They’re combined 1,500 kilometers long, so I doubt you’re gonna see the whole thing while you’re here.

Let’s go back to odd for a minute again, shall we? Spend a little time here and you’re bound to see these buildings, called the Radbrunnenhof. These uniquely designed “houses” are kind of a blend between barn and half-timbered house — whatever they are, they’re some of the last of their kind.

Right outside the houses is the Radbrunnen, a well from the Middle Ages. Did you expect less? Hello, the houses of the Radbrunnenhof are found on old Frankish farmland.

As for the modern town of Mahlberg, you’re only about 8km from Europa-Park, Germany’s biggest amusement park with rides and shows and all kinds of thrill seeking entertainment.

For cultural entertainment, look no further than Mahlberg’s Stadtfest every October. Can’t go wrong with a keg tapping, music, dancing, and children’s events.

The Christmas Market is also entertaining, held every year on the second Monday in December. Held on the Rathausplatz, the Market has a life-sized Nativity scene, lots of food, caroling, and (of course) shopping.

And the partying isn’t limited to just these two events, ya know. There’s the Museumsfest (June); the Hoffest (also in June); the Sommerfest (Summer Festival, August); the Herbstfest (Autumn Festival, September); and an Oktoberfest that’s really in October.

Now I’m not sure about the smoking with all these…but I’m pretty sure there’s a whole lotta drinking. ;-)

Meinhard — Marvels Along The Werra

April 27th, 2017

Engineering marvels, delightful countryside, history — do the wonders of the Hessian town of Meinhard ever cease? Nope. And that’s not a bad thing, it just means you gotta give yourself plenty of time to spend around here.

Again, that’s not a bad thing. Ohh, unless you’re pressed for time… then I guess it would. Hmm, better get to all the highlights then, I guess. ;-)

One of Meinhard’s highlights would be the Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum), open from April to October on the first Saturday of the month. They have exhibits on everything from the region’s prehistoric days, right up to the Middle Ages. And guess what? The museum is free, but please leave them a donation.

Another of Meinhard’s delights would be the Friedatunnel — it’s where engineering marvel comes into it. This old railway line used to run from Berlin to Metz, France, and if you’re looking at the west side of the tunnel — it’s a Gothic design.

The tunnel isn’t too far from Schloss Wolfsbrunnen, that’s not as old as you might think. It is, however, a boutique hotel these days.

For a draughty old castle, then it’s probably the Wasserburg Schebda you want, built in the 13th century. Schloss Grebendorf is kind of old, too, but this one is a half-timbered gem from the early years of the 1600s.

What else did I say Meinhard had to offer? Oh yes, delightful countryside. The list is l-o-n-g of stuff to do, everything from boat rides to the beach, canoeing to swimming, to camping. You’ll just want to do some of these thins around the Meinhardsee or Werratalsee.

Which brings me to the Werra Valley Cycle Route. So add bike riding to your list of things to accomplish. And with the price of baggage these days to travel, no worries about bringing your bike from home since rentals are available.

As if you’re not busy enough, add in some of Meinhard’s cultural events into the mix. Every June is the Strandfest (Beach Festival), while September is the month for both the Kartoffelfest (Potato Festival) in Jestädt (one of Meinhard’s seven villages) and the Heimatfest in Grebendorf. Oh yes, September also has the multi-day Kirmes in Frieda.

Ok, maybe there’s too much to do in Meinhard all at one time, so isn’t that reason enough to come back again and again?

Leidersbach — Short Means Smart In The Spessart Nature Park

April 25th, 2017

On my notes about the town of Leidersbach were written: 1.70 meters equals 66.92 inches and 1.6 meters equals 62.99 inches. And for the life of me, I couldn’t remember why.

Hey, you young people, this is what happens sometimes after you turn 50. ;-)

What did these calculations mean? And what the heck did they have to do with this Lower Franconian town of four districts, located within the Spessart Nature Park?

I’ll tell ya, because it came to me a few minutes later… it was the average height of the men and women of the Neolithic age who used to call this area home around the Altenburg.

They might not have been all that tall, but it does make them smart if they lived here — because this place sure is pretty. And while it might look a tad (ok, a lot) different from their day, I think they’d sure enjoy what’s to see and do what’s offered around here.

Leidersbach offers all kinds of culinary specialties, including those made with the King’s veggie — asparagus and fine Franconian wines. I’m thinking the Romans would appreciate this too, since the place was once located along the Limes, or the edge of the Roman Empire.

I have to tell you, Leidersbach is not for the “couch potato” crowd; it’s an area bursting at the seams for the outdoorsy crowd. Said to be in the Räuberland, or “Robber’s Country,” this heavily forested region is perfect for everything from biking, to hiking, and even skating.

And when your feet are tired from all that, come on over to the Barfußpfad (Barefoot Path) at the Wassertretanlage (Water-treading Basin), where the water is chocked full of natural minerals. I’m pretty sure the Alpine climate has to be good for you, too. Just as I’m sure the campsites, the BBQ areas, and Nordic Walking trails can be helpful to your health as well.

A healthy body is nothing without a healthy brain, so you can educate yourself with some history while you’re here, too. Ok, let’s not split hairs here, but I’d say the Wasserschloss Mespelbrunn qualifies as part history/part outstanding architecture. The castle, built in 1551, has pretty much managed to survive without too many problems, all thanks to its remote location.

Leidersbach is also home to quite a few old churches, like the Pfarrkirche St. Laurentius in the village of Rossbach. And there’s a pretty “wayside” chapel, built in 1899, and the Church of St. James, constructed in 1819.

Pahhh, and I thought turning 50 was getting old. But no matter your age, you’ll enjoy it here — just like those short prehistoric folks. ;-)

Rennertshofen — Magnificence On The Danube

April 24th, 2017

My life is terrible. A-B-S-O-L-U-T-E-L-Y horrible. It’s just awful that I have to, get this, spend my days in spectacular towns like Rennertshofen near the Altmühl Valley Nature Park, and along scenic routes like the Danube Bike Path.

Um, I sure do hope you can hear (pardon me, read) my sarcastic tone coming across these webpages — because my life is freakin’ awesome, all because of towns like Rennertshofen. This surely is a top town.

You name it, chances are this place has it. History? Yup. Gorgeous scenery? That too. What about festivals and cultural events? Oh, Baby, you have no idea.

Intrigued? Yeah, thought you’d be. No more time for chit-chat, it’s time to see places like the caves in the village of Mauern, created way back in the Ice Age. And it’s time to walk along places like Marktstraße, where you’ll find the old City Gates, or see such beauties like the Rathaus (Town Hall) from the Renaissance period.

Speaking of old, how about going to see the castle ruins in the village of Hütting. This poor suffering castle was built in the 11th century, only to be destroyed a couple hundred years later, then rebuilt and destroyed yet again.

At least the Schloss Stepperg, with its graceful windows, fared better. And the pretty churches found throughout Rennertshofen’s (roughly) two dozen villages are outstanding pieces of architecture. So, yes, that means you need to see places like the Church of St. Michael (built 14th century), the Antoniuskapelle (1676), and the Leonhardskapelle at the cemetery (1686).

I’m almost always going to find my own favorite, and this time it’s the local Parish Church. What? Don’t judge me too harshly, it’s easy to fall in love with the church’s painted ceiling, its chandeliers, and its gold-accented altars.

Just like it’s easy to fall in love with one (or all) of Rennertshofen’s festivals and cultural events. Please forgive me if I miss one, but here’s the list: a Maypole celebration, followed by the Dorffest (Village Festival), whereas June is the month for both the Summer Festival and the Pfarrfest (Parish Festival).

July is time for the Antonibergfest, followed by the Pfarrfest in Trugenhofen in August, and a 2-day Herbstfest (Autumn Festival) in September. October has the Wine Festival, and early November has the Leonhardiritt.

When you’re not partying until the cows come home (a lovely expression for staying out all night), you can go cycling or hiking around the Urdontal, which meets up with the totally romantic Danube. Of course there’s always that Altmühl Valley Nature Park I mentioned.

Yup, my life is terrible, isn’t it? ;-)

Karlskron — Subtlety And Pilgrimage

April 19th, 2017

As I write this it’s both a happy and sad moment. Sad because my week in Upper Bavaria, close to Ingolstadt, in the town of Karlskron is almost over. And happy because I’m in the town of Karlskron, close to Ingolstadt.

Ahhh, I made a joke — albeit a corny one. ;-)

What’s not a joke is how lovely the town of Karlskron really is. It’s not a “wild and crazy” kinda town, more of a subtle place where people go about their daily business going to the butcher, the baker, the bank kind of thing. But that doesn’t mean you’re not gonna have a good time.

That is, if you think enjoying concerts in places like the Wallfahrtskirche (Pilgrimage Church), or if you like visiting a place like the 16th century Wasserschloss (Water Castle). Okay, so what if it isn’t a medieval castle — it is a graceful looking building nonetheless.

The beauty of Karlskron’s architecture doesn’t end there… not by any means. Over at Hauptstraße 39 is the St. Trinitas Church, a pretty one from early 1800s; and the Church of St. Peter’s started off as a Gothic one. Plus, you’ll see some simple (yet elegant) chapels along the wayside in Aschelsried.

Ok, last one… I promise. If you find yourself in the village of Pobenhausen, go visit the Church of St. Quirinus, whose original church is from like 600 years ago.

Of course being outdoors is one of Upper Bavaria’s biggest “attractions,” so I’ll tell you you need to walk around the Pilgerpfad (Pilgrim’s Path). Don’t complain, it’s only a little over 5km. And even if you don’t wanna do that one, there are plenty of farms to scope out.

One of the best ones is Karlskron’s outdoor museum, full of trails and even a sheep pasture. You can learn all about bees and bison, not to mention on how they turned this old bog area into fertile farmland. Then feel free to hike around the Altmühl Valley Nature Park.

Works for me… how ’bout you?

Bergen (Chiemgau) — Health Resort Town In The Alps

April 17th, 2017

There are thirty-two districts of the health resort town of Bergen in the wonderful Chiemgau, which also happens to be the seat of the Verwaltungsgemeinschaft Bergen, i.e., the (greater) Collective Municipality, just one town over from the country of Austria.

You want to know all I heard (read, excuse me) in all that is: blah, blah, blah… Upper Bavaria.

Ha-ha, just kidding. There’s a lot more to Bergen than just being found in Upper Bavaria — it’s a town that’s fantastic to experience in any season, with all kinds of outdoorsy things to do.

Such as? Glad you asked… How about things like cross-country skiing, tobogganing (that’s sledding), snowboarding, and there’s even a ski school. Yes, they’re all winter activities — so for you summer lovin’ folks, how about mountain biking, miniature golf, Nordic Walking, bicycling, hiking, and swimming.

FYI, the nice people at the Tourist Office (located at Raiffeisenplatz 4) can help you find the best places to go for all that.

As for me, I’ll tell you to head to the Kneippanlage in the Kurpark (Hochfellnstraße), and to visit a museum like the Blauer Anger, full of exhibits on all kinds of “old” things.

And I’m gonna tell you to go see the Brandlkapelle, built in 1843. Want to visit a medieval church? Ok, that’s the Church of St. James, whose construction started in the 12th century. So what if it got a Gothic makeover, and yet two more in the 17th and 18th centuries.

In the second village of the Collective Municipality, known as Vachendorf, are a couple more churches with medieval beginnings. The nave of St. Margaret’s is from the 12th/13th centuries, as it is for the Church of St. George.

Those with a sense of adventure (and ambition), right at the summit of the Hochfelln mountain is the Gipfelkreuz, a memorial cross in honor of King Ludwig I. Hey, at least there’s a cable car for those not willing to hike it.

Oh, c’mon, you can do it… didn’t I already tell you it was fantastic to be outdoors here? ;-)

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