Bad Boll — A Swabian Alb Sulfur Springs Spa Town

October 5th, 2015

Tucked away in the northern part of the Swabian Alb, just 10km from Göppingen, is the spa town of Bad Boll — known for its sulfur springs as far back as the Middle Ages.

Oh, so that’s how you cram a whole lotta goodness into ten square kilometers, just add water with therapeutic properties. ;-)

I’m a sucker for a good spa, but before I get to soak my tired achy bones in the sulfur springs, it’s off to see the historical side of things first. As morbid as it sounds, it’s only right to visit the Blumhardt Friedhof, the final resting place of Johann Christoph Blumhardt and Christoph Blumhardt — a father/son team who created a special place of healing here — for both body and soul.

Another place in Bad Boll that still tends to its residents and visitors alike is the Stiftskirche St. Cyriakus, a beautiful medieval Romanesque church from the 12th century. Although, quiet reflection at the Tempele (whose views are outstanding) could work wonders for a harried mind.

Here’s a thought… do as we Germans do (who love peace & quiet) and take a quiet walk along one of Bad Boll’s many hiking trails. The Hörnleweg (marked by brown signs with a green arrow) is easy enough to follow at just 6.2km — and it’ll take you right to the Tempele so you don’t miss it.

Another great route is the Historic Route Eckwälden, filled with information boards about the history of the area. And the Nature Path Badwälde has eleven info boards on all the local plant and animal life. Of course, if you’d rather see the animal life that used to be here, come on over the Rathaus (Town Hall) to see some fossils.

Too tame for you? All right, then I guess it’s off for a round of golf, e-biking, Nordic Walking, or horseback riding.

I’ll take shopping at the Christmas Market, held the Saturday before First Advent, if you don’t mind. Yeah, best to check your calendars ahead of time — the date’s always different. And I sure don’t mind sitting quietly for one of the many Classical Music concerts held once a month throughout the year.

Uh, maybe not so good for the achy bones to sit too long — best hurry off the sulfur springs before the concert lets out… ;-)

Rangendingen — Holding Its Own With Famous Neighbors

October 3rd, 2015

You probably couldn’t ask for better neighbors than Hechingen, Haigerloch, and Burladingen; but let me be the first to tell you the town of Rangendingen can hold its own against some of the heavy hitters.

For me the highlight of Rangendingen (besides just being in the Swabian Alb) is Burg Hohenrangendingen. Or, more specifically, what used to be a 13th century castle whose origins date back to prehistoric times. The castle itself wasn’t around too long, now overcome by the ravages of time since for more than 700 years.

I liked the Ruine Haimburg, too. There’s something to be said for those up to the challenge of building a castle in the late 13th century, then rebuild it again after it was destroyed in the 14th century. Too bad no one rebuilt it after it was destroyed (yet again) more than 400 years ago.

If you really must see a totally intact castle, you’re in luck. You’re close enough to see Haigerloch Castle that’s now part museum and part Parish Church. And the mighty Hohenzollern Castle isn’t that far away, either, and worth the trek because it’s one of the most outstanding castles in Germany (if not in all of Europe).

Folks can’t live by castles alone — OK, they can, but another subject altogether. So, after your journey of castle sightseeing, come find a hike and/or bicycle path. The Starzetal makes a wonderful backdrop for leisurely strolls, active bike riding, or stealing a kiss from your honey behind a tree.

Ugh, the romantic in me just came out there for a minute. Quick, someone distract me with a festival or something. ;-)

As for those, Rangendingen sure knows how to give someone a good time. The Family Festival (1st Sunday in July) is a good one for those traveling with little ones, but everyone is just as welcome to the Beetenfest (Sept/Oct), the Maypole Celebrations, to listen to the Christmas caroling, or eat until they pop at the Bachkuchefest (end of Oct).

Even if there’s no festival going on while you’re here, you can always appreciate the half-timbered houses along little lanes, the quiet stillness of the nearby Jewish cemetery, or the art and architecture of the St. Ägidius Church.

So what if Rangendingen is surrounded by more famous neighbors, I think this place holds its own quite nicely.

Brensbach — Castles And Churches In The Odenwald

October 3rd, 2015

Castles, castles, everywhere. Oh thank you, Brensbach — I knew I could count on a Hessian town to give me what I’ve been craving. The fact you’re in the northern part of the Odenwald, that makes it even better.

The most famous castle in Brensbach (the village of Stierbach really) is the Burgruine Schnellerts, a proper medieval castle from the 13th century. And you’re really close to some other ruins, too. Schloss Reichenberg isn’t too far away, and well worth the trip to see its Gothic chapel. Technically this 12th century castle is a ruin — but it seems too well preserved to me.

Unlike Burg Rodenstein, for that matter. Come to think of it, is it still a castle even if it didn’t have a dungeon? Ahh, one look at the craggy gray stones, and you’ll know this is a castle from the Middle Ages.

I know, enough with the castles already — right? OK, so it’s on to Brensbach’s churches. The hamlet of Wersau has one of the best; not to take anything away from the rest of Brensbach, but its fortified tower is worth the trip. Be sure to stand back some, you’ll want to get half-timbered houses along side the church into your photos. As for other half-timbered gems, you should visit Wallbach and Affhöllerbach.

Want more churches? All right… how about a trip over to see the 15th century Gothic church? Perhaps a stop over at the Church of St. Mark? Why not, you never know what you might see inside a 16th century church.

Just so you know, Brensbach isn’t just castles and churches — they got a museum, too. Don’t worry, it won’t take too much out of your day, especially since it’s only open on the first Sunday of the month. It does, however, open for special events, like during the Christmas Market. Another great special event is the Brünnchesfest at the Eberhardtsbrunnen, always held on the first Sunday of July.

But, if its quiet serenity you’re seeking, then find yourself a hiking trail through the Odenwald, or walk along the banks of the Gersprenz, whose water you see eventually makes its way out to the North Sea. Let the water go — you don’t want to leave the wonders of Brensbach just yet, do ya? ;-)

Alheim — A Hessian Town Everyone Can Love

October 3rd, 2015

Just between Kassel and Bad Hersfeld, lies the town of Alheim. Positioned ever so nicely in Northern Hesse, and within the Middle Fulda Valley, Alheim is wonderful to visit if you’re into history and architecture — and a fun place to be if you’re into different kinds of festivals.

As for Alheim’s historical side, you’re very close to the Kloster Cornberg. Once a Benedictine Monastery from the 13th century, the Kloster’s church is an outstanding example of Gothic architecture.

While you’re out exploring the surrounding countryside, be sure to visit both Schlss Rittershain and Schloss Rotenburg (built 1470). Who couldn’t love a proper German castle?

As for Alheim itself, you really should see the “Art in Landscape,” comprised of some eight outdoor pieces of art. Another great way to experience the natural side of Alheim is from its 21 meter high lookout tower — which is close to its World War I and World War II memorial.

Or, you could trek along one of the hiking routes. The Waldwunderweg leads you through a number of “stations” that’ll teach you about the surrounding forest.

Cycling is exceptionally popular around here, and where both the Hessian Radfernweg R1 and R5 meet up, not to mention the D-Route 9 (a.k.a. Weser-Romantische Straße) slices on through, too. Better yet, take a horse-drawn wagon ride.

What’s even better about Alheim — there’s more! At the end of August, the village of Heinebach (one of the town’s 10) hosts the Gänsemarkt. Stick around, there are plenty more to experience.

Let’s see, there’s the Whitsun Fair in June, plus the Dorffest in Hegershausen (it’s a 3-day event, so plan on staying for a while), and the Wine Festival and Kirmes in Niedergude in July. And I almost forgot to mention the Hoffest in Oberellenbach, and the Midsummer Fire.

It might not be big-city life here in Alheim, but I think it’s perfect just the way it is — a proper German town that everyone can love.

Amöneburg — From A Volcano To A Saint

October 3rd, 2015

Let me start with giving thanks to the volcano on which the town of Amöneburg now sits; thanks for no longer spewing magma and lava, thus creating the town you see today.

I’m willing to bet the Stone Age and Celts who called this place home are thankful too. ;-)

I guess from that last sentence you can guess the area of Amöneburg has been around a long, long time. And you’d think not all that much can be found from its prehistoric days, but that’s not true. Amöneburg has a wonderful Prehistory Museum, filled with all sorts of exhibits.

There are also a good number of historical places to see around town — none probably better than the ruins of Burg Amöneburg. The pieces of the castle you see today date from the mid-12th century, a mighty fortress found along the Ohm River, destroyed during the Seven Years War in the 1700s. However, a fortification had been on the spot a thousand years prior — and St. Boniface himself used it himself to teach Christianity to the surrounding villagers.

Amöneburg’s religious history doesn’t end there. You really should see the Magdalenenkapelle, a 14th century chapel ruin that sadly didn’t fare too well during the 17th century Thirty Years’ War; a war that totally deserted the village of Lindau where it sits.

Oh, and I couldn’t leave out telling you about the St. Johannes der Täufer Church, a grand neo-Gothic basilica, or the Baroque Church in the village of Roßdorf, built by a mass grave from said Seven Years War.

You’d think with all the devastation and war, Amöneburg might’ve lost its sense of jovial fun — but it hasn’t. Two of its biggest events are its Mardorfer Kermes (held the first weekend of October), the Erfurtshausener Kirchweihfest, held on the second weekend of July, and yet another Kirchweihfest at the end of August.

Hey, it’s all in good fun — and I’m pretty sure even St. Boniface would approve of Amöneburg today. ;-)

Hohenwestedt — Cheese For The Woolly Mammoth

October 2nd, 2015

When is the town of Hohenwestedt not really Hohenwestedt? It’s sort of a trick question, because Hohenwestedt is always its name, but these days (since January 2012) it’s the “seat” of Amt Mittelholstein, a collective municipality of some 29 other villages, hamlets, and towns.

Yes, it can be confusing, but Hohenwestedt itself is just a small part of it — only 18.18 square kilometers, located between Rendsburg and Itzehoe.

Its wonderful northern Germany location makes it a perfect place to explore around the region, taking you to places like the Kiel Canal (where you can wave to passing ships), or to the Eiszeit Museum in nearby Lütjenburg that’s all about the Ice Age. You know, like woolly mammoths and such.

A bit closer to home in Hohenwestedt is the Muschelhaus, known as the Shell House for its shell decorations on the place. There’s even a Heimatmuseum (Local History Museum) here in town, detailing much of the regions history (like the Bronze Age artifacts found), along with art and other exhibits.

As nice as that all is, Hohenwestedt’s landmark is the Peter-Paul Church, a grand design of late 18th century architecture. And over by the Rathaus (Town Hall) is the Utroper monument, in honor of the Ochsenweg — an interesting scenic route of prehistoric proportions.

Another way to experience the great outdoors here in Hohenwestedt is to cycle along one of its fifteen bicycle trails. They’re themed, so your choice if you want to hit up the Ice Age Route, the Stone Age Route, or the Antique Route (to just name a few). Oh, plus you’ve got the Aukrug Nature Park to explore while you’re out and about, too.

Yeah, that’s all fine and dandy, but the real highlight of Hohenwestedt is the Mittelalterspectaculum, held every year at Pentecost (May or June). It’s kind of like a Renaissance Faire, with jousting, jugglers, knights in shining armor, and fair maidens. It’s a whole lotta fun that’ll take you back to the Middle Ages, with all the modern conveniences.

I doubt I could’ve survived without indoor plumbing. ;-)

And I don’t think they had the Käsestraße back then either. The Schleswig-Holstein Cheese Route meets up near Hohenwestedt, so while you’re out exploring the region, you certainly can eat the most delicious cheeses (and other farm-fresh goodies) in the pretty countryside.

So, I guess it doesn’t really matter what name Hohenwestedt goes by — it’s just a wonderful place to be in North Germany. Isn’t that what anyone really needs to know?

Weitnau — Definitely More Than Cheese And Cows

October 2nd, 2015

One thing’s for sure, you’ll never hear me complaining about having to go back to Bavaria — especially when I’m headed to a place like Weitnau in the Allgäu.

Could you imagine someone grumbling and griping: oh no, please don’t make me go towards the German Alps — it’ll be absolute torture. ;-)

Yeah, I just don’t see that happening. What I do see, is a town of great festivals and grand old churches, as well as finding itself along a spiritual scenic route; and a town that lives up to its motto of being “more than cheese & cows.”

It is more than cheese & cows, although the cows are the highlight of the annual Cattle Drive in September. It’s not like the running of the bulls in Spain, but is a grand event to come out to meet the folks lucky enough to live here.

Another great event to make new friends would be the Bockbierfest, along with the Castle Festival in August and Autumn Market (also in September). I’m kind of fond of Christmas Markets, so it’s really nice to find one here, too.

As many of you already know, I’m super fond of old churches and castles. After a visit to the Burgruine Trauchburg (built in the 1100s), and seeing the amazing artwork at the St. Pelagius Church, you will be too.

Don’t stop your church visiting tour yet, you haven’t seen the Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) of St. Margaret (15th century), or the five-plus churches and chapels scattered throughout the rest of Weitnau. Hmm, no wonder the place lies along the Bavarian/Swabian leg of the Way of St. James.

Your trek going from chapel to church is a good way to experience the bright Bavarian sunshine. And it’s no problem if you’re here during the winter — where you’re able to go skiing (downhill & cross-country), snowboarding, or try snow hiking with snowshoes (no problem if you didn’t pack yours, you can rent them).

It’s probably best to wait for Spring or Summer to do a round of golf at the local 18-hole course, though.

The folks in Weitnau most certainly have it right — there’s definitely more than cheese & cows here. And you for sure won’t hear me complaining. ;-)

Habichtswald — A Delight In The Habichtswald

October 2nd, 2015

Oh whoa, as if things weren’t confusing enough in Germany with many towns sharing the same name — so imagine how confusing it is to be in the town of Habichtswald — found within the Habichtswald, the Nature Park.

Doesn’t matter, I guess, there are far worse places in the world to be than right here, close to castles and pretty Hessian landscape.

As for the countryside, the only way you’re gonna enjoy it is to be, well, outside. Don’t worry, there’s plenty to keep you busy other than just hiking with your own two feet. Although, that’s pretty much how you’ll be getting around if you’re trekking along the Habichtswaldsteig.

Wait, I take that back, you can also cycle along this picturesque scenic route.

Another super-cool fun thing to do out here is take a ride on one of the Icelandic horses — so your choice if you want to take a riding lesson, or educate yourself on all things about horse training and breeding.

Farming and agriculture aren’t new to the region, so it seems like the right place for a museum on the industry. The museum, located at Breiter Weg 4, is open by appointment only, so you’ll need to call ahead.

And no, my history loving friends, I haven’t forgotten about what whets your appetite. The Burgruine Igelsburg is right up your alley, even if nothing too much remains of its medieval beginnings.

Also from the Middle Ages is the local church’s tower in the village of Ehlen, originally used as a defense tower in the 12th century.

Well, if you think that’s old, that’s nothing in time compared to Gut Bodenhausen — an “estate” whose origins go back almost twelve hundred years ago. So what if the current building is but a mere 400 — this place is old. It is not, however, as old as the Stone Age settlements that used to be here.

By the way, both hamlets, Ehlen and Dörnberg, were established in the year 1074, just to be combined into the new town Habichtswald in 1972. Why did they do that? Why did they confuse me in the first place?

Either way… history lesson’s now over — time to enjoy the Fest der leisen Töne, a festival playing softer sounding music. Wacken Fest this is not, ya know what I’m saying?

Sounds great, so it’s a small price to pay to confuse the amazing town of Habichtswald with the Naturpark Habichtswald. ;-)

Osterrönfeld And The German Ferries Route

September 30th, 2015

Ugh, Osterrönfeld has got to be the hardest town for me to write about this week. Although, if that’s the worst thing to complain about — then I’m counting my lucky stars.

It’s not as though this northern town isn’t charming enough; heck, it even lies along a pretty cool scenic route…

So, what’s the point? I’m not exactly sure. For starters, Osterrönfeld lies along the German Ferries Route, a 250km route on the Kiel Canal highlighting all sorts of locks and ferries and bridges. A true feat of German engineering, I must say.

That’s probably one of the first things you’ll notice about Osterrönfeld, its massive bridge linking it to Rendsburg, a wonderful city on the other side of the Kiel Canal — and the reason Osterrönfeld sits on this great route.

There’s even this awesome transporter thing-y, that in 2 minutes can take 60 people and four cars over to the Rendsburg side of things in about two minutes. Hey, it beats sitting in traffic, right?

I guess after that is where it gets complicated, since Osterrönfeld is the “Seat” of Amt Eiderkanal, a collective municipality of much smaller villages, and it doesn’t seem right to leave them out.

Take Haßmoor, for example. The whole village doesn’t even have 300 residents, but lies within the Naturpark Westensee — a wonderful place to be in the summer when the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival is in full swing.

And what about Schacht-Audorf, a village of farms, but also has a great Village Museum full of ancient archaeological finds. The musuem is located at Kieler Straße 25, if you’re interested.

It isn’t right to forget about Bovenau, home to the St. Mary Magdalene Church, and Gut Kluvensiek, a manor house from the mid-15th century. Plus, Bovenau is where you’ll get to enjoy the Naturerlebnisraum, a great nature experience for those who love the great outdoors. Ahh, and I almost left out the reconstructed megalithic graves.

While I started out talking about Osterrönfeld, it was only proper to give its much smaller “sister” hamlets a big shout-out. So if you’re trekking along the Deutsche Fährstraße, be sure to visit the wonders of Osterrönfeld and beyond.

Unkel — Endless Possibilities In The Nature Park

September 29th, 2015

On the right bank of the Rhine River, lies the town of Unkel — a proper place to be if you love all kinds of German festivals, or if you’re into historical old buildings.

Hey, there’s got to be something to the place, both Konrad Adenauer and Wily Brandt lived here.

I know, I know, who’s Konrad Adenauer and Willy Brandt? Mr. Adenauer was the Chancellor of West Germany, partially responsible for West Germany’s Wirtschaftswunder (the Economic Miracle experienced after WWII); and good old Willy Brandt was once mayor of West Berlin, and also a Chancellor of Germany.

As for good old Willy, the Willy Brandt Forum acts as a Local History Museum, and it’s a great place to learn how his statesmanship helped to “reconcile West Germany with the Soviets.”

Unkel’s history dates back long before these 20th century guys decided to come live here. The Freiligrathhaus, once home to the famous German poet Ferdinand Freiligrath, dates back to the mid-17th century, so it’s a lovely Baroque home of the time period.

Even older is the Fronhof, whose origins take you back to the 11th century (yeah, that’s a thousand years ago), and the Eschenbrender Hof might be a hotel these days, but it was private home centuries before now. These old manor homes sure are pretty, and in addition you’ll find some awesome half-timbered houses (like the ones on Pützgasse) while you’re making your way through town.

I think my favorite of all Unkel’s historical buildings is the Gefängnisturm (Prison Tower), a round grey stoned building whose Baroque dome reminds me of a bottle cap. No, maybe it’s the St. Pantaleon Church, a 13th century building built over an even older one. For being over 700 years old, the place is quite pretty.

As for Unkel’s outdoorsy stuff, the Rhine Promenade is a good place to start. And with some 160km of hiking trails, you’re sure to find just the right place to sit for a spell. You can’t go wrong no matter which trail you choose — you are awfully close to the Naturpark Rhein-Westerwald, after all.

Oh, and Unkel is also known as a Red Wine Village, so maybe one of the vineyards is the right place to sit for a while.

No, at a quiet table under a tree during the Wein- und Heimatfest is the perfect place to be for a while, which is always held on the first Sunday of September. A few weeks before that is both the Park Festival (2nd weekend of August), followed by the Rhine Swim a week later. Of course it wouldn’t be right not mentioning the Rhine in Flames (1st weekend of May), or the Scheurener Kirmes on the first weekend of July.

By the way, the Scheurener Dom, as it’s called, is a cute chapel found on Scheurenstraße if you’re here for its Kirmes.

Unkel has managed to inspire statesmen, a poet, and a simple writer like myself — just imagine the possibilities you can experience on your visit.

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