Münstertal (Schwarzwald) — The Magic Of The Black Forest

October 23rd, 2015

Oooh, I heard the magic words: Black Forest, a.k.a. Schwarzwald.

Let’s face it, there are not too many places steeped in legend and lore like the Black Forest, so I don’t really care too much what town I’m having to explore next — picky I am not.

However, that kind of introduction doesn’t befit the town of Münstertal (with all its 65 villages and hamlets) — please forgive me. ;-)

Let’s try this again, OK? What a wonderful town Münstertal turned out to be; easily reached from towns like Bad Krozingen, Freiburg, and Staufen. All this means is you’re close enough to enjoy places like Burg Scharfenstein, a castle from the 1200s, destroyed & abandoned over 500 years ago.

And if you think that’s old, hold on to your hat, because the Kloster St. Trudpert was founded four centuries before the castle was even thought of. Yeah, you did the math right, that’s sometime in the 9th century. Even though the monastery was “secularized” in 1806, it’s still a medieval monastery at heart — right down to its 12th century texts and 14th century manuscripts.

Books and manuscripts aren’t the only way to learn about things. The Bienenkundemuseum will teach you all about beekeeping, by the way. Hmm, you can learn something new everyday. You can also learn about medieval mining at the Teufelsgrund, or Devil’s Ground, where silver had been mined here as far back as the 10th century.

History lover that I am, even I’m ready to party at this point — and there’s no lack of events to choose from. We all know about the German love of the automobile, so the Oldtimer Treffen (held in early May) is a great way to see old cars. Then again, we know about the German love of wine — so come the end of May is the Wein und Musik events.

And it wouldn’t be right not to tell you about the town’s Cattle Drive (first weekend of October), or the Schwarzwälder Weihnachtsmarkt Münstertal (its Christmas Market), the Mine Festival, or the multi-day Markgräfler Weinfest in August.

So far there’s no shortage of things to see and festivals to attend, just as there’s no chance you’ll ever go hungry either. Pick your poison — everything from dairies for the yummiest of cheeses, all kinds of asparagus dishes, and plenty of wine and brandy to wash it all down.

Seems if I had started out in Münstertal (Schwarzwald) with that, I wouldn’t have gotten anything done. ;-)

Weitramsdorf — Loving And Learning In Upper Franconia

October 21st, 2015

Right between the city of Coburg and the southern Thuringian border lies the town of Weitramsdorf.

The geography of its nine villages is only partially what makes this Upper Franconian town so delightful, so stick around — you’re definitely gonna find something to love.

You’re also going to learn something, too. I know I did, as I wasn’t too sure what a Grenzstein was. Turns out, by the way, they’re old boundary stones. There are quite a number of them found throughout the districts of Weitramsdorf, many of them looking like gravestones, believe it or not.

The one in Gersbach, known as the Dreiherrenstein, marked where three former boundaries came together. The “K” marked where the Kingdom of Bavaria met the duchies of “HSM” Herzogtum Saxis Meiningen and “HSC” Herzogtum Saxis Coburg, from around the year 1599.

Whew, a lot has changed over the last 400 years, hasn’t it? Well, not exactly, the Church of St. Nicholas in Weitramsdorf proper has been here even longer, as has the 14th century Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) in the village of Neundorf.

Neundorf is great if you like German towns with that Old World feel — right down to its many half-timbered houses, like the old rectory from the 1790s. Other architectural gems around here include places like the Rathaus (Town Hall) in its neo-Renaissance design, and the beautifully designed schoolhouse.

However, I think the palatial Schloss Tambach is the most gorgeous looking building in town. I even love the two Baroque designed pillars marking the entrance to the local Wildlife Park.

I’m loving the many festivals and events here in Weitramsdorf, too. It seems as if there’s a bazillion events from May to October — everything from a Maibaumfest (May 1st) to a Geranienmarkt (early May), to no less than four Kirchweih events, along with both a Wine Festival and Apple Festival (both in October).

Oops, forgot all about the Waldfest (Forest Festival) in September for a minute there.

Wow, a history lesson and a whole bunch of parties — so see, something to love and learn. ;-)

Stühlingen — Partying In The Black Forest

October 16th, 2015

No one, and I mean no one, can ever say they came to the town of Stühlingen and didn’t have a good time. Really, any place with as many festivals and cultural events as Stühlingen is the right place to be for party animals.

It’s also the right place to be for nature and history lovers. You see, Stühlingen lies right along the Southern Black Forest Nature Park. Those ambitious enough to tackle the Gorge Trail (all 118km of it) will find themselves visiting Stühlingen without even trying.

Listen, I’m not even going to hike one-tenth of that — though I still appreciate the beauty of the Black Forest.

What I (and I’m not the only one) also do appreciate are old medieval castles; although I’m not sure if Stühlingen’s landmark, Schloß Hohenlupfen, qualifies as one. Maybe it does, but its current structure wasn’t built until 1624, and the original castle was built atop a Roman site.

Burg Blumegg is the other must-see castle. Just don’t go expecting to see a fully intact castle from the 12th century; the Burg was destroyed more than 450 years ago.

As with many towns in Germany, when you have old castles — you can generally find old churches, and Stühlingen is no different. The Kapuzinerkloster (Capuchin Monastery) might still be a working monastery, but you’re welcome at the monastic church. And you’re welcome to come see the beautiful 19th century paintings at the Church of St. Fridolin; and you really shouldn’t miss out on a visit to the former pilgrimage Church of St. Nicholas.

With all that out of the way, it’s time to party Stühlingen style. Hey, I started with talking about the town’s parties, so why not finish with them too?

Anyway, it seems Stühlingen has something going on just about every month of the year. Come May there’s the Summer Festival and Gartenfest, while August is the time to enjoy the multi-day Mittelalterfest (Medieval Festival).

The cooler months bring on the Oktoberfest (October), the Martinimarkt (November), and the Christmas Market. Plus, if you like music, then be sure to get tickets for the Klosterkonzert (concerts at the monastery) and/or the Easter Concerts.

Yup, it’s official, there’s a great time to be had in Stühlingen.

Brigachtal — Attractive Living In The Black Forest

October 16th, 2015

Brigachtal’s motto is “Attraktiver leben,” or Living More Attractively. Yup, I’d most certainly agree, even if this wonderful town wasn’t in the ever romantic (and pretty) Black Forest.

That being said, you know you’re in for a delightful treat every minute you’re in the great outdoors; and there are certainly a great number of things to do.

Want to go fishing? Yes, you can do that — and you’re able to get a “daily license” for such occasions. Prefer an early morning balloon ride over the countryside? Great, you can do that too.

Do you like bike riding? You’re in for a treat if you do, and you’re quite close enough to the Donau Bike Path (and the Black Forest Panorama Route) if you want to venture a little further out.

Anyone wishing to stay close to Brigachtal could find happiness just relaxing by one of the BBQ area, or sipping a delicious drink at a local cafe or pub.

Don’t let some winter weather stop you from enjoying the town’s attractive living — there are 8km of cross country skiing trails if you’re interested.

Sorry, not me. I like it cold, but I’d much rather spend every Autumn here — especially for the Kultureller Herbst, or Cultural Autumn. There are countless concerts held throughout the season, many of them free, making it affordable for the whole family.

Some concerts are held in the amazingly historical Kirche St. Martin. Oh you’d never guess it from its modern day appearance, but this church has been holy ground for Christians for over thirteen centuries. Before the original church was built, it was believed to have been an Alemannic burial ground — and before that, a Roman settlement.

In fact, you’ll find all kinds of exhibits on the Romans, Celts, and Alemanni in the Heimatmuseum, or Local History Museum. You can’t miss it, it’s housed in the old schoolhouse.

There’s no doubt about Brigachtal’s attractive living, and I know you’ll find it that way, too.

Sankt Johann (Württemberg) — Charisma And Charm

October 15th, 2015

Really, how many towns and hamlets could there be with the name Sankt Johann, or St. Johann for short, as this one here is officially called?

Do you think you know? One? Two? Ha-ha, turns out there are too many. Yup, a few hands full; and interestingly enough, all of them in South Germany.

Now, the one right here in the Swabian Alb is quite remarkable. It has old churches, idyllic scenery, and great festivals where you can eat and drink all sorts of local goodies. No, Friends, it doesn’t get better than this.

History lover that I am, it was off to see some of (this) St. Johann’s pretty village churches. There’s something astounding about the Church of St. Mary over in Upfingen (one of St. Johann’s six villages). Maybe its age has something to do with it (it’s over 500 years old), or the fact that it hosts many musical concerts in addition to regularly held Sunday services — for which you’re more than welcome to attend.

And that’s not to take anything away from the lovely wall & ceiling paintings at the Andreaskirche in Würtingen, or St. George Church in Gächingen — the latter being the town’s landmark, and whose world-renowned Gärchinger Choir got started.

However, no visitor to the Swabian Alb should be indoors for too long. The choice is yours if you want to hike, bike, cross-country ski, or just wander around little villages like Bleichstetten that have won the “Our Village is Beautiful” contest.

I think there should be a “Our Village is Fun” contest; and I’m pretty sure St. Johann would win that too. Skiing is fun, as is partying at the Frühlingsfest (April), Franziskafest (July), Herbstfest (Autumn Festival) and Kartoffelfest (Potato Festival) — both held in September.

While there might be other towns with the same name, I don’t know if they have the same charisma and charm — but I’ll let you know when I get there. ;-)

Neudenau — Framework Outweigh Castles

October 15th, 2015

Today it’s all about the town of Neudenau — a charming Old World town in the Heilbronn District, barely 17km from the city of Heilbronn itself, and considered part of the Stuttgart Metropolitan Region.

Its geography isn’t what makes Neudenau so attractive; all the fantastic half-timbered houses and charming chapels do that.

Oh, did I mention the castle? What if I said there were two castles? Even better, right? So what if one of the castles is in ruins? Ruine Heriboldisburg is still wonderful after all these years — just call ahead if you want to see this amazing 13th century medieval wonder.

And let’s not forget about Schloss Neudenau, another proper medieval castle from the 13th century. These days it’s the venue for the Heritage Museum, by the way, known as Josefine-Weihrauch-Heimatmuseum.

There are other amazing buildings from the Middle Ages throughout town, places like the Gangolfskapelle, or Chapel of St. Gangolf. This old Romanesque chapel used to function as a full-fledged Parish Church for an old village. The village is gone, the church remains.

If you think all this architecture is grand, wait til you see the Marktplatz. Oh, its Square is framed by the most charming of half-timbered houses — and they’re mighty proud of their framework Rathaus (Town Hall), built way back in 1587. Yeah, sounds old, but considering some of these buildings date to a century before — it’s not quite that old. ;-)

This is quite a bit to take in at one time, so relaxing with a nice glass of locally made wine is a grand way to remember it all — your choice if you want a Trollinger, a Pinot, or a Riesling.

You’ll also be happy to know the drinks flow nicely during one of Neudenau’s many festivals and other cultural events. Too bad the Herbolzheimer Dorffest (Village Fest) only happens every other year, but its Oktoberfest, two Kerwe parties, and its Advent Bazaar are annual pleasures.

Another annual event is the Pferdewallfahrt, held the second Sunday in May. It’s a huge procession to the Gangolf Chapel — a wonderful event that’s been going on for some 500 years.

I told you its geography isn’t what makes Neudenau so great — although that certainly helps. So, if you’re in the Stuttgart Metro Region, be sure to come on by Neudenau.

Rosengarten (Swabia) — Best Things Happen By Chance

October 12th, 2015

This is it, my last town in Swabia this week; and I can’t think of a better place to end my journey than right here in the town of Rosengarten. Not to say anything against Rosengarten (Harburg), but this one has its own qualities.

What I noticed first were all the “scenic routes.” If you’re traveling along the Way of St. James you’ll probably come here by “accident,” but some of the best things in life happen by chance. And if you’re ambitious enough to cycle along the 338km Kocher-Jagst-Radweg, you’ll find yourself visiting here, too.

There’s no way I’m biking that far, so I’m keeping to the 6.6km Hammerhaldenweg and the 8.5km Landturmweg hiking routes. Not that I don’t appreciate anyone who’s willing to do all that — I just don’t want to be too far from Schloß von Tullau. Call me crazy, but I love the castle’s red shutters — and the fact the castle’s been here for a thousand years.

Old architecture doesn’t end there, no way! The Marienkirche in the village of Rieden, once a pilgrimage church, has been here some six centuries, and the Cemetery Chapel (found in the village of Westheim, the oldest of them all, established in the year 788) is even older.

While you’re off snapping photos of old churches, be sure to take some of the Sigismund Chapel (built 1516), and the St. Wolfgang Chapel (built 1476).

Your trip here doesn’t have to be all castles and churches, you’re invited to party hard. The Maibaumfest is a nice way to enjoy Spring, while the Peter und Paul Festival in June is a goodie, too. While there might be a chill in the air during the October Autumn Festival, it’s still a great time to come.

That’s also a great time of year to enjoy all the fall foliage in the Swabian-Franconian Forest Nature Park throughout its 2,000km of hiking trails. All right, not all of them are in Rosengarten, but enough to keep you entertained for a while.

Wait, I take that back. The outdoor beer garden’s only open during the summer months.

I guess you’ll have to come back, because Rosengarten’s Christmas Market (held at the Church of St. Martin) is only on the first Sunday of Advent.

Now that I think about it, I think I’ll just stick around here a tad longer. ;-)

Oberthulba — Find The Riemenschneider On The Salzstraße

October 7th, 2015

Life here in the Franconian town of Oberthulba is quiet and unassuming. It’s a place where everyday is spent in the glorious countryside near both the Hessian and the Thuringian border, and it’s where you’ll find the work of a 15th century master wood sculptor.

As for the town itself, Oberthulba lies near (borders, actually) Bad Kissingen, comprised of eight districts and 52 square kilometers.

My guess is you don’t wanna hear about the geography, but rather about how the centuries-old pieta from Tilman Riemenschneider was stolen back in 1929. This master wood sculptor’s work is known all over the world (like his Holy Blood Altar in Rothenburg ob der Tauber), so it’s fantastic to find one of his earlier pieces.

Even older than Riemenschneider’s pieta is the St. Lambertus Church, which once belonged to the Kloster Thulba. While the 12th century Romanesque church still stands, only pieces of its cloister and walls remain of the medieval monastery. And to go back further in history, in the village of Frankenbrunn some burial mounds from the fifth century B.C. were found around these parts.

Frankenbrunn, by the way, is where you’ll find the Chapel of St. Michael, a tiny chapel from the early 18th century.

Forget about the past for a moment, let’s consider the present. Today’s Oberthulba is a great place to spend sometime outdoors. There’s an extensive network of hiking trails through the Lower Franconian countryside and Rhön Mountains, passing along pretty farms and through the Neuwirtshauser Forest. If you get tired, come rest by Thulba Lake, where you can even set up camp for a night or two.

Plus, if you’ve absolutely gotta see a castle, then you’re lucky enough to be close enough to Schloss Elfershausen (built 1562), and Schloss Saaleck, a proper medieval one with its own donjon. Ohh, and there’s nearby Schloss Waizenbach, a 16th century castle that’s run by a real-life Baron.

I guess they needed all these castles to protect the goods being transported along the Salzstraße way back in the day.

Too bad they couldn’t protect that Riemenschneider pieta. ;-)

Wesendorf — A Burst Of Color On The Lower Saxon Mill Route

October 7th, 2015

Do you have any idea of what I love most about Lower Saxony? The food. Yeah, German cuisine is kind of like British food, it doesn’t get the respect it truly deserves (sorry, Britain, but not everyone appreciates bangers & mash as much as I do).

But this time I’m not talking about German food like bratwurst and sauerkraut. I’m talking about the freshest fruits and veggies — straight from the farms in places like Wesendorf.

There’s something truly delightful (and healthy) when you know exactly where your food comes from — and there’s something remarkably pretty about sprawling farms with rows of asparagus, cucumbers, and strawberries. It’s a burst of color that’ll make your mouth water.

Good thing Wesendorf is also a delightful place to spend some time outdoors. A couple of tumuli from both the Stone and Bronze Ages have been found around here; and wouldn’t it be a fantastic to find one yourself?

Going out to look for prehistoric graves isn’t the only thing to do while you’re outdoors. Come see the Sacred Grove, an area part of the Lüneburg Heath. It’s easy to see why the Junipers inspired artists like Hermann Löns.

For me the inspiration comes in places where old castles once stood, like Burg Wahrenholz. Close your eyes and it’s easy to hear the clanking of medieval armor, the clopping of horse hooves, and the whispers of courtly love.

Not everyone gets excited about what was, but what is. So, for that let’s talk about Wesendorf’s brilliant festivals. The Osterfeuer is always a goodie, and the Maypole celebrations are a lovely way to usher in Spring. My favorites of the town’s cultural events are in the cooler months — Oktoberfest and the Christmas Market.

What’s great about Wesendorf is the fun doesn’t end here. There is an annual Fisherman’s Festival, and there’s a Harvest Festival in September. If you’re not able to make either one, the Kartoffelfest (Potato Festival) is another September event that’s loads of fun, too.

After you’re well-fed (again), come around to see one of the town’s half-timbered houses, its Miniature Fire Brigade Museum, or stroll along its tidy streets in search of charming thatched roof cottages. And you’ll even find Wesendorf meets up with a charming scenic route, the Lower Saxon Mill Route, thanks to its watermill, originally built in 1425.

From here it’s off on one of the hiking trails and the nearby Großes Moor Nature Reserve. Care to join me, we’ll nosh on some locally grown berries — and talk about wonderful Wesendorf.

Calberlah — Easy Going And Fun

October 5th, 2015

For a while there it seemed I spent all my time in the southern part of the country, so it sure is nice to head north again. I guess I should be saying, it’s nice to find myself in the town of Calberlah — which is an independent municipality in the Samtgemeinde Isenbüttel, the latter of which is a Collective Municipality.

Official names and borders aside, Calberlah borders the city of Wolfsburg, and is comprised of seven districts with names like Allenbüttel and Allerbüttel. A bit confusing, yes?

While the names can trip you up a bit, Calberlah is an easy going place, just as it is fun.

Easter bonfires are really popular up here in North Germany, as are Maypole celebrations on May 1st. Another popular event held every May is the Allerlauf, an annual marathon. The land’s kinda flat around here — but that doesn’t mean I’m gonna run it. ;-)

Sitting around with a glass of wine is more my speed today, so lucky me when I found a Wine Festival taking place in July. And I love good eats, so I fully appreciate the King’s veggie (asparagus) being grown in these parts.

Too bad there isn’t an Asparagus Festival, but you will find an Oktoberfest (in October), outdoor cinema events, a Fackel- und Laternenumzug (Torch & Lantern Parade) in November, and a Village & Advent Market in early December.

Sounds like a lot, right? Please, that’s not even the half of it here in Calberlah — I forgot to mention the Hoffest in May and the Hobby & Craft Market in July, too.

With all this going on it doesn’t leave too much time for traditional sightseeing — so you better quick get over to the Lutheran Church of St. John the Baptist. Hold on a sec, who am I kidding, the church has been here for 800 years — where’s it going?

You know what, I’m not going anywhere either — I think I’ll stick around for a bit longer. ;-)

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